Winnie the Pooh

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INFORMATION

To make a Winnie the Pooh, you will need:

- Himalaya Dolphin Baby yarn (100g/120m, 100% polyester) approximately 220g of
yellow color (about 2 and 1/5 skeins), approximately 30g of red color (about 1/3
skein), and a few meters of black color for sewing the nose, eyebrows, and mouth
- Crochet hook size 4mm
- 14-16mm safety eyes
- Toy stuffing (silicone balls)
- Needle (and optionally thin yarn) for sewing the toy pieces together
- Lighter for burning the ends of the yarn.

Abbreviations
ch - chain stitch
sc - single crochet
Inc – increase (two sc into one stitch)
Dec – decrease (two sc together)
dc - double crochet
tr - treble crochet
sl st - slip stitch

My Winnie-the-Pooh, made according to the pattern

below, is just under 50 cm tall.

COMMENTS

- We make the toy "in a spiral", without joining each round.

- Instead of a magic ring at the beginning of the work, you can make 2 chain stitches
(then make single crochets in the first chain stitch, the second one from the hook).
- The numbers in parentheses indicate how many stitches should be made after
completing a given round.
- For sewing the pieces together, you can use a different yarn than Himalaya Dolphin
Baby (such as Yarnart Jeans), and in that case, you don't have to leave longer yarn
tails after finishing each element.

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HEAD (yellow color)
1. 8sc in magic ring (8)
2. 2 sc in each st (16)
3. (1 sc, inc) x 8 (24)
4. (2 sc, inc) x 8 (32)
5. (3 sc, inc) x 8 (40)
6. (4 sc, inc) x 8 (48)
7. -14. 1 sc in each st (48 - 8 rounds)
15. (1 sc, inc) x 6, 12 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 6, 12 sc (60)
16. -21. 1 sc in each st (60 - 6 rounds)

Attach the safety eyes between rounds 14 and 15, with the first eye inserted
between stitches 20 and 21 of round 15, and the second eye inserted between
stitches 27 and 28 of the same round.

22. (8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

23. 1 sc in each st (54)
24. (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)
25. 1 sc in each st (48)
26. (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)
27. (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)
28. (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30) - start stuffing
29. (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
30. (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
31. (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12) - finish stuffing
32. dec x 6 (6)

Fasten off and weave in the end of the yarn.

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Now we can model the "face" of the teddy bear a bit (this is optional, you can also
skip this step).

We insert the needle near the last round of the head.

We pull it out right next to the eye, thread the yarn

(remember to leave the end of the yarn outside the teddy
bear).

We insert the needle from the other side of the eye, pull
it out right next to the other eye, and thread the yarn.

We insert the needle from the other side of the eye.

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We pull it out near the place where we started, and
thread the yarn.

We tie the ends of the yarn together (once, not in a

knot).

The yarn is visible around the eyes - during the tying

process, you can hide it under the eyes.

We pull the yarn ends together and tie them until the
head takes the shape that satisfies us. Then we tie the
ends in a knot and hide the yarn tails inside the head. If
the knot is visible, it's okay - we will sew the body to the
head, so it will be covered.

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BODY (yellow color)
1. 6sc in magic ring (6)
2. 2sc in each stitch (12)
3. (1sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. (2sc, inc) x6 (24)
5. (3sc, inc) x6 (30)
6. (4sc, inc) x6 (36)
7. (5sc, inc) x6 (42)
8. (6sc, inc) x6 (48)
9. (7sc, inc) x6 (54)
10. (8sc, inc) x6 (60)
11. (9sc, inc) x6 (66)
12. -19. 1sc in each stitch (66 - 8 rounds)
20. (4sc, dec) x6, 30sc (60)
21. 1sc in each stitch (60)
22. (3sc, dec) x6, 30sc (54)
23. -24. 1sc in each stitch (54 - 2 rounds)
25. (7sc, dec) x6 (48)
26. -27. 1sc in each stitch (48 - 2 rounds)
28. (6sc, dec) x6 (42)
29. -30. 1sc in each stitch (42 - 2 rounds) - start stuffing
31. (5sc, dec) x6 (36)
32. -33. 1sc in each stitch (36 - 2 rounds)
34. (4sc, dec) x6 (30)
35. -38. 1sc in each stitch (30 - 4 rounds)

Close the last stitch, leaving a longer piece of yarn for sewing. Stuff the body firmly.
Sew the body to the head (remember to position the rounded belly at the front). Add
more stuffing to the head to prevent it from wobbling.

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EARS (yellow color, make 2)
1. 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
2. 2 sc in each st (12)
3. (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. -8. 1 sc in each st (18 - 5 rounds)
9. (4 sc, dec) x3 (15)

Close the last stitch, leaving a longer tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Fold the ear in
half, sew the last round closed, and sew it onto the head.

NOSE (yellow color)

1. 6sc in magic ring (6)
2. 2sc in each stitch (12)
3. (inc) x 3, 3sc, (inc) x 3, 3sc (18)
4. 3sc, (inc) x 9, 6sc (27)
5-6. 1sc in each stitch (27 - 2 rounds)

Do not remove the marker, it will be easier to position the nose correctly. Tighten
the last stitch, leaving a longer piece of yarn for sewing.
Sew the nose under the eyes - the last 3sc of the last round of the nose should be in
the middle at the top (between the eyes). Before
finishing sewing, stuff the nose. After sewing, we can
embroider black nose, smile and eyebrows for our teddy
bear.

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LEGS (yellow color, make 2)
1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. 2 sc in each st (12)
3. (inc) x3, 3 sc, (inc) x3, 3 sc (18)
4. (1 sc, inc) x3, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc) x3, 3 sc (24)
5. (inc, 2 sc) x3, 3 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x3, 3 sc (30)
5. (3 sc, inc) x3, 3 sc, (3 sc, inc) x3, 3 sc (36)
7. -9. 1 sc in each st (36 - 3 rounds)
10.(1 sc, dec) x5, 21 sc (31)
11. 1 sc in each st (31)
12. (dec) x6, 17 sc, dec (24)
13. -16. 1 sc in each st (24 - 4 rounds)
17. (4 sc, dec) x4 (20)
18. -21. 1 sc in each st (20 - 4 rounds) - we start stuffing.
22. (dec, 3 sc) x4 (16)
23. -28. 1 sc in each st (16 - 6 rounds)

Fasten off the last stitch, leaving a longer piece of yarn for
sewing. Stuff the leg (the upper part can be stuffed more lightly
so that the toy can sit). Fold the leg in half and sew it together.
Attach the leg to the body at approximately round 11-12.

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HANDS (yellow color, making 2 pieces)
1. 6sc in a magic ring (6)
2. 2sc in each st (12)
3. (1sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. (2sc, inc) x6 (24)
5. -6. 1sc in each st (24 - 2 rounds)
7. (dec) x6, 12sc (18)
8. -12. 1sc in each st (18 - 5 rounds)
13. (4sc, dec) x3 (15)
14. -23. 1sc in each st (15 - 10 rounds) - start stuffing
24. (3sc, dec) x3 (12)
25. -30. 1sc in each st (12 - 6 rounds)

Close the last st, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the hand (the upper part of the
hand can be stuffed lightly so that it fits nicely into the arm). Fold in half and sew
the last round. Attach the hand to the body two rounds below the head.

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T-SHIRT (red color)
You don't need to make the t-shirts tight, you can loosen the stitch a bit.

FRONT AND BACK (make 2)

Chain 28
1. Starting from the second chain from the hook, make 27 sc, turn (work the next row
"backwards") (27)
2. Chain 1, make 27sc (the first sc will be made in the same stitch as the chain came
out of), turn (27)
3. Chain 1, (7 sc, dec) x3, turn (24)
4. -5. Chain 1, 24 sc, turn (24 - 2 rows)
6. Chain 1, (6 sc, dec) x3, turn (21)
7. -8. Chain 1, 21 sc, turn (21 - 2 rows)
9. Chain 1, (5 sc, dec) x3, turn (18)
10. -11. Chain 1, 18 sc, turn (18 - 2 rows)
12. Chain 4, 1tr (in next st), 2dc, 2sc, 6 sl st, 2sc, 2dc, 2tr

Fasten off the last stitch, leaving a piece of yarn for sewing.

SLEEVES (make 2)

Chain 19
1. Starting from the second chain from the hook, make 18 sc, turn
2. -6. Chain 1, make 18 sc, turn (18)

Fasten off the last stitch.

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Assembling the shirt

We sew the back and front of the shirt together at the

shoulders.

Next, we wrap the sleeve around the arm and sew it to the shirt
(starting from the side furthest from the torso).

Once the sleeve is attached, we turn it right-side out so that the

seam is on the bottom.

Finally, we sew the sleeve to the back of the shirt…

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 ...and to the front of the shirt.

Finally, we sew the rest of the side of the shirt. We repeat this
on the other side.

Great! I hope the finished product turned out well.

Copyright reserved, the pattern is the property of OliMori.

I do not give permission for editing, further sharing, or translating it into other
languages without my knowledge.
The pattern is free of charge.
I would appreciate it if you mention the source of the pattern when sharing a photo
of the completed Winnie the Pooh.
If you have any questions, please contact me via Facebook at https://
www.facebook.com/olimori or by email at olimori@wp.pl.

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