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Anna Bagrova
Master class
on crochet “PUMBA”

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

List of required materials:

ÿ The warp yarn is brown or mustard in color. YarnArt

Jeans yarn No. 40 (160m in 50g) 1.5 skeins was
used to write the master class

ÿ Yarn of additional pink color for the nickel, tongue

and ears. YarnArt Jeans No. 83 (160m in 50g)

ÿ Some black yarn for the hooves. In MK - Alize Cotton Gold No. 060

ÿ A little white yarn to decorate the eyes. In MK - YarnArt Jeans No. 01 (160m in 50g)

ÿ Hooks for your yarn. In MK - No. 1.75 and No. 2.25

ÿ Eyes on a safe mount 8-9 mm

ÿ Black felting wool (for hair). The wool should be combed (i.e. long and wide smoothed ribbons of fiber)

ÿ Felting needle No. 38 star (you can use triangular, No. 36, and No. 40)

ÿ White polymer clay (baked or self-hardening) for sculpting tusks. In MK – Cernit

ÿ Rigid wire for frame. For the legs and tail in the MK, aluminum wire with a diameter of 1.6 mm (about 160
cm) and a diameter of 1 mm (about 80 cm) was used.

ÿ Filling (holofiber, synthetic fluff)

ÿ A small piece of white felt (for the tooth)

When using the above materials, the height of the toy will be
about 20 cm.

Difficulty level: above average

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Legend:

KA – amigurumi ring sc –
single crochet
ch - chain loop U -
decrease P
- increase 3in1
- knit three single crochets in one loop 3vm - 3 together - make a
decrease of three loops PRDC - half double crochet DC -
double crochet SS2N - double crochet
( )*3 – repeat what is indicated
in brackets three times (18) – at the end
of each line the total number of loops in the row is indicated
in brackets
psm - displacement loop ZS -
rear wall of the loop PS - front wall

of the loop

Thank you for your interest in my master class! I wish you happy knitting!

The master class does not contain crochet lessons. It is the author's
development of Anna Bagrova.

Intended for personal use only. It is prohibited to copy and

publish on the Internet the entire MK or any of it.
parts, transfer or sell MK to third parties.
You have the right to dispose of related toys at your own discretion: give,
sell.

When publishing photographs of finished works, be sure to indicate the name of the author
descriptions and/or link to Instagram page @miss_b_mi

Thanks for understanding! I hope for your honesty!

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Hoof (4 pcs):

We knit two for each hoof

half-toe in black, hook No. 1.75:

Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6 sc)

Round 2: 6 sc (6 sc)
Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x3 (9 sc)
Round 4: 9 sc (9 sc)
Round 5: (2 sc, inc) x3 (12 sc)
Rounds 6-8: 12 sc (12 sc per round) (3 rounds)
Round 9: (dec, 2 sc) x3 (9 sc)
Fasten the thread on one part and cut it off.

We continue knitting on the second part, attaching the first half-hoof to

it:

2 sc for both half-hooves (attach the parts with their right sides facing each other, place the hook on
the wrong side of the tied half-hoof)

Change the thread color to the main one, brown:

Round10:
6 sc, dec (1 stitch of the decrease on one half of the hoof, the second stitch on the other half of the hoof), 5 sc,
dec (1 stitch of the decrease on one half of the hoof, the second stitch on the other half of thehoof)
(12stitchestotal)
Note: The beginning of the round shifts by one stitch (the end of round 10 will be in the first stitch of this same
round).
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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Bring the marker to the opposite part of the hoof, knitting the required number of offset stitches. This will be
the center of the front of the leg.

I got +6 stitchs: (shift sts)

Cut the wire 40cm long. Bend to the shape of the hoof. Form the squiggle not in the center of your piece of
wire, but closer to the edge, so that when you twist the free ends of the wire, the wire in two folds is about 3-4 cm,
and then the long end consists of a single wire (see right photo). Twist the wire into a bundle. Wrap the place
where the short end of the wire ends with electrical tape or double-sided tape.

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Insert the wire into the hoof and stuff it. The marker is the center of the front of the leg (take this into
account when stuffing the part).

Move the wire so that the half-hooves are closed (tightly adjacent to each other):

We continue knitting: rows

11-13: 12sc (12) (3 rows)

Add detail.
14th row: (2 sc, dec)*3 (9)

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Up to this point, the knitting was the same for all four paws. Further, there will be separate descriptions
for the front and hind legs.

For the Hind Legs (2 pcs) we continue knitting according to the following pattern:

15th row: 9 sc (9)

Align the marker with the center in front. I have 1 shift st

Round 16: 4 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 4 sc (11)

Round 17: 11 sc (11)
Round 18: 4 sc, sc3tog, 4 sc (9)

Fill the resulting lump tightly (circled in red in the photo):

Rounds 19-23: 9 sc (9) (5 rounds)

Round 24: (2 sc, inc) x3 (12)
Rounds 25-27: 12 sc (12) (3 rounds)
Align the marker to the center front. I got +1 stitch
adjustment.
Round 28: 5 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (16)
Round 29: 2 inc, 14 sc (18)
Round 30: 7 sc, sc4tog, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc) x2 (17)
Round 31: (1 sc, inc) x2, 3 sc, dec, 8 sc (18)
Round 32: 18 sc (18)
Round 33: (5 sc, inc) x3 (21)
Rounds 34-35: 21 sc (21) (2 rounds)

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Move the marker to the middle. I got +1 stitch adjustment.

Secure the yarn and cut it.
Mark with a stitch marker:

For the right paw: the 19th stitch of the 35th round (3rd stitch from the end)
For the left paw: the 9th stitch of the 35th round

Front Legs (make 2):

Up to round 15, crochet the same as for the hind legs.
Align the marker to the center front. I got +1 stitch adjustment.
Rounds:
Round 15: 4 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 4 sc (11)
Round 16: 11 sc (11)
Round 17: 4 sc, sc3tog, 4 sc (9)
Stuff the resulting bump.
Rounds 18-21: 9 sc (9) (4 rounds)
Round 22: (2 sc, inc) x3 (12)
Rounds 23-26: 12 sc (12) (4 rounds)
Round 27: (3 sc, inc) x3 (15)
Rounds 28-29: 15 sc (15) (2 rounds)
Round 30: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x2, 2 sc (18)
Round 31: (5 sc, inc) x3 (21)

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Marker at center front. I got +2 stitch adjustment

Round 32: 9 sc, sc3tog, 9 sc (19)
Round 33: 8 sc, sc3tog, 8 sc (17)
Marker at center. I got +1 stitch adjustment
Mark with a stitch marker:
For the right paw: the 10th stitch of the 33rd round
For the left paw: the 12th stitch of the 33rd round

Tail

Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Rounds 2-9: 6 sc (6) (8 rounds)
Round 10: 5 sc, inc (7)
Rounds 11-15: 7 sc (7) (5 rounds)
Round 16: inc, 6 sc (8)
Rounds 17-19: 8 sc (8) (3 rounds)
Round 20: 7 sc, inc (9)
Rounds 21-22: 9 sc (9) (2 rounds)
Round 23: inc, 8 sc (10)
Round 24: 10 sc (10)
Round 25: inc, 9 sc (11)
Round 26: 11 sc (11)

Fasten the thread and cut it off. We won't fill in the details.
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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Body:

Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Round 2: 6 inc (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
Round 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x5, 1 sc (24)
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
Round 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x5, 2 sc (36)
Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42)
Round 8: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x5, 3 sc (48)
Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54)
Round 10: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x5, 4 sc (60)
Round 11: (9 sc, inc) x6 (66)
Round 12: 5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) x5, 5 sc (72)
Round 13: (11 sc, inc) x6 (78)
Round 14: 6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) x5, 6 sc (84)

In the next row we knit the hind legs. Place the pieces right sides together. Inserting the hook from
the wrong side of the paw into the loop marked with a marker, we knit a sc for both parts.

Round 15: 29 sc, 7 sc together with the right leg, 12 sc, 7 sc together with the left leg, 29 sc (84)

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

16th row: 28 sc, dec (1 stitch on the body, the second on the leg), (4 sc, inc) x2, 2 sc, dec (1 stitch on the leg,
the second on the body), (3 sc, inc) x2, 2 sc, dec (1 stitch on the body, the second on the leg), 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc) x2,
dec (1 stitch on the leg, the second on the body), 28 sc (100)

Round 17: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x2, 64 sc, (inc, 6 sc) x2, inc, 3 sc (106)
Round 18: 34 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 26 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 34 sc (110)
Round 19: 39 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 39 sc (114)
Marker at the center of the belly. I got +1 stitch adjustment.
Round 20: (10 sc, dec) x2, 25 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 25 sc, (dec, 10 sc) x2 (108)
Round 21: 34 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 34 sc (103)
Round 22: 30 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 29 sc, dec (98)
Round 23: 30 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 30 sc (94)
Adjust the marker. I got +1 stitch adjustment.

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24th row: 3 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 72 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 3 sc (98)

In the next round, we will attach the front legs. Place the pieces with the right sides facing each other.
Insert the hook from the wrong side of the leg into the stitch marked by the marker, and single crochet
through both pieces.

25th row: 5 sc, 5 sc together with the right leg, 78 sc, 5 sc together with the left leg, 5 sc (98 sc)

26th row: 4 sc, dec (1 stitch on the body, the second on the leg), 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec (1 stitch on the
leg, the second on the body), 26 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 26 sc, dec (1 stitch on the body, the second
on the leg), 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec (1 stitch on the leg, the second on the body), 4 sc (103 sc)

27th row: 103sc (103)

Align the marker if necessary.

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Round 28: 40 sc, dec, 19 sc, dec, 40 sc (101)

Round 29: 101 sc (101)
Round 30: (5 sc, dec) x2, 17 sc, (dec, 7 sc) x5, 10 sc, (dec, 5 sc) x2, dec - the
beginning of the round will shift by one stitch (91)

Align marker if necessary

In the next row we will knit the tail:

31st row: 33 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc together with the tail, dec, 6 sc, dec, 33 sc (87)

32nd row: 7 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec (1 stitch on the body, the second on the tail), 4
sc, dec (1 stitch on the tail, the second on the body), 3 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 7 sc (80)

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Align the marker if necessary. Stuff your hind legs. Twist the wires
hind legs. Start twisting at approximately the level of the tail.

Round 33: 10 inc, (1 sc, inc) x2, 17 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 17 sc, (inc, 1 sc) x2, 10 inc
(102)
Round 34: (2 sc, inc) x9, 6 sc, (dec, 5 sc) x2, dec, 4 sc, dec, (5 sc, dec) x2, 6 sc, (inc, 2
sc) x9 (114)
Marker at the center (I got +1 stitch adjustment)
Round 35: 53 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 53 sc (112)
Round 36: 44 sc, (dec, 3 sc) x2, 2 dec, (3 sc, dec) x2, 44 sc (106)

Insert the wire into the tail. If you use black yarn, rather than felting wool, for the tail tassel, simply cut a piece
of wire 80cm long, fold it in half, making a loop at the tip, and twist the free ends into a rope.

wire. Insert into the ponytail from the inside.

If, like me, you use wool for felting, then take 80 cm long wire and a piece of wool from a combed ribbon.
Place the wool on the center of the wire and twist the loose ends of the wire around the wool into a bundle.
Secure the wool well, you can press the wire around it with pliers before twisting.

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Insert the wire into the tail (sticking it into the KA). Dropping glue onto the base of the tail tassel,
pull the wire and lock the tail in place.

Twist the ends of the wire of the hind legs and tail together. In the place where the paw wire ends,
wrap it with electrical tape or double-sided tape. We don’t cut off any excess ends!

If necessary, center the marker again.

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Round 37: 45 sc, dec, 2 sc, 4 dec, 2 sc, dec, 45 sc (100)

Round 38: 41 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x2, dec, (2 sc, dec) x2, 41 sc (95)
Align the marker (I got +1 stitch adjustment)
Round 39: 46 sc, sc3tog, 46 sc (93)
Round 40: 45 sc, sc3tog, 45 sc (91)
Check the marker again. If needed, align it.
Round 41: 42 sc, dec, sc3tog, dec, 41 sc, inc (88)
Round 42: inc, 41 sc, sc3tog, 43 sc (87)
Twist the wires of the front legs together.

Fill your butt and belly.

Twist the tail wire together with the front paw wire.

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Round 43: 42 sc, sc3tog, 42 sc (85)

Round 44: 39 sc, dec, sc3tog, dec, 39 sc (81)
Round 45: 39 sc, sc3tog, 39 sc (79)
Align the marker to the center. I got +1 stitch adjustment.
Round 46: 38 sc, sc3tog, 38 sc (77)
Round 47: 25 sc, inc, 3 sc in the same stitch, inc, 21 sc, inc, 3 sc in the same
stitch, inc, 25 sc (85)
Round 48: 26 sc, inc, 1 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 1 sc, inc, 10 sc, sc3tog, 10 sc,
inc, 1 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 1 sc, inc, 26 sc (91)
Round 49: 91 sc (91)
Round 50: 44 sc, sc3tog, 44 sc (89)
Round 51: 4 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 1 sc, sc3tog, 1 sc, dec, 19 sc, dec, 1
sc, sc3tog, 1 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 4 sc (77)
Align the marker if necessary.
Round 52: (7 sc, dec) x2, 5 sc, 12 ch (skip 31 stitches), 5 sc, (dec, 7 sc) x2 (64)
Do not cut the thread.

Snout
Row 1: Chain 13
Row 2 (working in the round starting in the second chain from the hook): 10 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 9 sc,
inc (24)
Row 3: 5 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 5 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 11 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch (30)
Row 4: 6 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 7 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 13 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 1 sc (36)
Row 5: 7 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 9 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 15 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 2 sc (42)
Row 6: 8 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 11 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 17 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 3 sc (48)

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Change the color of the thread to the main one (brown) and knit the next row behind the CC:

7th row: 8 sc, 3 sc, 11 sc, 3 sc, 17 sc, 3 sc, 3 sc (42)

Continue knitting on both sides of the loop

8 row: 2 sc, dec, 3 sc, sc3tog, 3 sc, dec, 27 sc (38)

Knit 26 psm (your quantity may vary slightly) to remove the marker
in the central part of the lower part of the muzzle:

Round 9: 17 sc, 2 dec, 17 sc (36)

Round 10: 36 sc (36)
Round 11: 14 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 14 sc (34)
Round 12: 34 sc (34)
Align the marker. In the next round, we will create holes for the tusks.
Round 13: 7 sc, 4 ch (skip 4 stitches), 3 sc, 6 sc in the back loop only, 3 sc, 4 ch (skip 4 stitches), 7 sc (34)

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Round 14: 6 sc, dec, 18 sc, dec, 6 sc (32)

Round 15: 7 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 7 sc (30)
Rounds 16-17: 30 sc (30) (2 rounds)

Align the marker. In the next round, we will create a fold in the middle of the nose.

Round 18: 12 sc, 6 sc together with the front loop of the stitches from Round 13, 12 sc (30)

Round 19: 30 sc (30)

Round 20: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x2, 4 sc (27)
Rounds 21-22: 27 sc (27) (2 rounds)

If necessary, align the marker. Cut out a part

from cardboard according to the shape of the resulting part (muzzle):

Next we will connect the muzzle to the body. We continue knitting along the muzzle:

23rd row: 21 sc, 12 sc working through the stitches of this round and the 12 chains from Round 52 of the body.
Place a marker in the next stitch to mark the beginning of the next round.

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

24 row: 14 sc, 3 stitches (1 loop on the muzzle, 2nd in the corner between the parts, 3rd on the body), 1 sc,
3 stitches, 21 sc, 3 stitches, 1 sc, 3 stitches (1 loop on the body, 2nd between the parts, 3rd on the muzzle) –
beginning of the row will shift by 1 loop (40)

Round 25: 1 sc, 12 inc, 12 sc, sc3tog, 12 sc (50)

Round 26: 36 sc, sc3tog, 11 sc (48)

Wrap the edge of the wires with electrical tape or double-sided tape. Insert cardboard into the muzzle so that
it is located along the bottom of the part. Try the wire on the nickel. If necessary, bend it and insert it into the
nickel.

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Stuff the part with holofiber.

Do not cut the thread. Let's tie the mouth and then continue knitting the head.

Fill the mouth without stuffing the neck so that the curve remains visible.

Mouth

We knit in 3 stitches (of which there are 54 in total, including 12 ch of the 52nd row).
We continue knitting from the place where we stopped knitting the body:

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Round 1: (7 sc, dec) x6 (48)

Round 2: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42)
From this round onwards, work through both loops of the stitch.
Round 3: (5 sc, dec) x3, change yarn color to pink (color of the snout): (5 sc, dec) x3 (36)
Round 4: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30)
Round 5: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)
Round 6: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
Round 7: (1 sc, dec) x6 (12)
Round 8: 6 dec (6)

Tighten the hole.

Insert the needle into the middle of the mouth, bring it out on the neck in front of the appendages. Insert the needle
near the exit point, grabbing 1 sc and bring it out in the hole in the head. Pull it up to form a small dimple in the mouth.
Secure the thread by wrapping and securing it around the wire (or in another way convenient for you).

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Insert eyes between 23 and 24 rows of head knitting. (through the row below from 12 increases) at
a distance of 5-6 sc.

Refill the neck and cheeks if necessary.

We continue to knit the head:

27th row: 48sc (48)

Find the 15 central loops above the eyes and mark with markers. What we're in
In the next row we will knit in these loops, placed in curly brackets. These will be the eyebrows.

I have 6 stitches left in front of the markers. I knitted according to the following pattern: Round 28:dec, 2

sc, dec, {sc4tog, dec, 3 sc, dec, sc4tog}, dec, 2 sc, dec, (1 sc, dec) x3, sc3tog (dec, 1 sc) x3 (28)

Example Round 28 (with 4 stitches left before the markers):

dec, 0 sc, dec, {sc4tog, dec, 3 sc, dec, sc4tog}, dec, 4 sc, dec, (1 sc, dec) x3, sc3tog, (dec, 1 sc) x3 (28)

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

If there are 5 stitches left:

28th row: U, 1sbn, U, {4 sc, U, 3sbn, U, 4sc}, U, 3sbn, U, (1sbn, U)*3, 3sc, (U, 1sbn)*3 (28)

If you have more than 7-8 loops left, knit the required number
offset loops in order to reach my first version of the 28th row.
In the 29th row, the first red number will be equal to the first red number of the 28th row + 1sc.
Second red number of the 29th row = 19th first red number of the 29th row. For me this series looked
like this:

29th row: 3 sc, 3 sc, 3 sc, 3 sc, 16 sc (24)

Add detail by filling the eyebrows well and giving them shape.

Round 30: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)

Round 31: (1 sc, dec) x6 (12)
Round 32: 6 dec (6)

Leave a long end of the thread and fasten. We will embroider their nostrils and take away the nickel.
I placed the points by eye:

Insert a needle with the long end of the thread into the top of the head and draw a nickel at one of
the green points. Let's enter it into one of the red dots and output it somewhere on the back of the head.

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Let's pull it up. Let's insert it into the same point on the back of the head (without grabbing the knitted fabric!)
and bring it out again at the green point. And let's enter it into the neighboring red one. As a result, it turns out
that we have embroidered the letter L. Let’s tighten the nostril, slightly drowning it in the penny. Let's do the
same with the second nostril.

Let's embroider the whites of the eyes:

Let's knit the Lip for 42 PS loops of the 52nd row: ss, 40sc, ss (42):

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Ears (2pcs)

We knit two identical parts with pink yarn:

Row 1:Chain 13 (13)
Row 2 (work in the round, starting in the second chain from the hook):
2 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc, 2 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc, 2 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc)

Fasten the thread. Cut off.

We knit the brown piece using the same pattern. We do not cut the thread.

We knit a ch, unfold the knitting, and apply the pink piece (with the wrong sides facing each other). Starting the
hook from the side of the pink part, we tie the ear with single crochets.

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Fasten the thread, cut it, leaving a long end for sewing. Using a needle, pull the brown edges together in
one stitch:

Sew ears into the pits between the cheeks and eyebrows

Hairstyle and tail design

The area where we will roll the wool is marked in red.

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

We take a felting needle and black felting wool in a combed strip.

We pinch off a small piece of wool, as in the first photo, apply it in the middle to the head and pass
the needle through the center of the bundle (along the entire red line drawn in the second photo). We
raise.

And so we roll the hairs until we fill the entire inner part of the red zone.

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

After a notable tuft of vegetation has appeared on Pumbaa’s head, take

scissors and give the guy a haircut.

After cutting, you can lightly run a felting needle over the entire hairstyle and
make her more casual.

The tail slightly lost its appearance during knitting. Comb it with a regular needle and trim it. You can
also go over it with a felting needle.

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Second hairstyle option

If you don't have wool to felt, you can use the black yarn you used to knit the hooves. Cut it into
small pieces and fill them with the same red zone as with wool. And decorate the tip of the tail. The
principle of fastening threads is shown in the photo:

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Let's make a tooth

Cut a 1.3*1.3cm square from white felt. Apply glue to one edge. Stick to
lip from the inside

Blind former

I sculpt from baked polymer clay (plastic) Cernit or Jam Clay. You will need white color. I make two
identical balls. I roll sausages with one end more pointed. I fold it into a tusk shape and pinch off the
excess from the thick end. Remember that the thickness of the tusk should not be wider than the hole
that we knitted in the 13th row of knitting the muzzle.

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Master class “PUMBA” Anna Bagrova

Bake the tusks according to the instructions using your clay.

Pour glue into the holes under the tusks. Stick in the tusks and glue.

You can slightly tint the nostrils.

Use any tinting method that is familiar to you (dry pastels, paints or shadows, as in my case). It is
better to tint in daylight. I didn't tint my pigs.

That's all! Congratulations! Your perky pig is ready!)

Connect him with a couple of relatives or your best friend - Timon

and get ready for wild adventures;)

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