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in English
Difficulty – upper
intermediate

Crochet pattern «The Crocodile»

Materials for crocodile birth
Main yarn Kartopu Nubuk green color, footage 550 meters /100 grams, (consumed about 25
grams);
Kartopu Nubuk yellow color for lower body, footage 550 meters /100 grams, (consumed about 7
grams);
Kartopu Nubuk pink (for inner part of mouth) and coral (for tongue) color, footage 550 meters /100
grams;
You need a more hard yarn for nostrils, I used YarnArt Jeans, footage of 160 meters /50 grams, I
crocheted in 3 threads of 4;
ATTENTION! All the yarn used should have the same thickness. If you are using the yarn of
different brands, despite the declared same footage, it`s better to crochet some templates of
36 loops according to the standard circle schema;
Crochet hook #1.25;
Steel-looking wire for lower paws and tail carcasses with 0,9 mm diameter;
Copper wire with a diameter of 0,5 mm for upper paws and jaw;
Thin wire with a diameter of 0,3-0,4 mm for reinforcement inner part of mouth and tongue;
Plaster for wire wrapping;
Filling, I have hollofayber;
Bake plastic for making eyes (light yellow), teeth (white), comb and claws (dark green);
Eyes with a diameter of 6 mm;
For legs fixation: 4 T-cotters, 2 disc with 9 mm. in diameter, 2 disc with 12 mm. in diameter, 2 disc
with 15 mm. in diameter, 2 disc with 18 mm. in diameter;
Dry pastel for toning (if you want), I have toned only the cheeks and eyebrows;
Super clue (gel);
Metal granulate to make the toy heavier (about 20 grams);
Neodymium magnet with a diameter of 3 mm, 2 pcs;
For Butterfly making: yarn YarnArt Canarias black color, footage 203 meters /20 grams, crochet
hook #0.75, polymer clay Cernit for wings making;
For net making: tulle, copper wire, polymer clay (make a handle).
 Difficulty – upper intermediate.
Height of the toy 11 cm.

This material is my author's development and intended for your personal use only. All rights
reserved. You may not copy or distribute this pattern and the materials contained therein, in whole or
in part, to third parties, as well as to distribute them on any Internet resources, or in any other way.
Serial production of toys on the pattern, as well as training, is prohibited. Toys made by yourselves
according to this pattern, can be sold only with the following obligatory item: "Developed by Irina
Nevelskaya, https://www.etsy.com/shop/PatternsByPortik ». When you post your products photos on
any Internet resources, reference on the development author, or on my shop is required. Using photos
of toys made by me is not allowed.

Abbreviations:
RL – replacement loops (when the marker moves to the right – this is the feature of the
crocheting in a spiral – you need to crochet an additional sc and move the marker)
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
inc – increase (crochet 2 sc in the next st)
dec – decrease (crochet 2 sc together)
3 sc in next st – double increase
crochet 3 sc together – double decrease
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
rnd – round
Practical recommendations:
Toy crocheted in spiral. You can use a marker or contrasting thread to facilitate the work when
crocheting in a circle. The new row begins before the loop with the marker. You should follow the
symmetry while crocheting. If the marker goes to the right you have to create an additional single
crochet and move the marker on one loop to the left ("displacement loop" in the description of the
series is not stated). Do not remove the marker before you finalize the main part of the toy.
You can use any thread to create the toy. The crochet hook should be chosen in such a way that
crocheting was dense enough and the filler could not be seen though the holes.
While toys crocheting the right and wrong sides look like this:
 Right side Wrong side

A jacquard like color change was used while body crocheting. The loops which have to be
crocheted with another color yarn are marked in the description with another color text. It`s correct to
crochet the jacquard by a hook at the following way. Do not crochet one loop till the color change,
crochet it like:
1. A working loop is on the hook. Insert a hook in the next loop, pick up the working thread and pull
it out, there are 2 loops on the hook

2. Pick up a different color thread and crochet through the both loops on the hook. Now there is one
loop on the hook. CAUTION! Here we`ve crocheted the last loop before color change.

3. Now crochet a needed loop quantity of a different color according to the description, change the
thread to the main one similarly on the last loop.
There will be broaches from the threads of the main and the additional colors on the inner side.
 Kartopu Nubuk green color, hook # 1.25 Amour. The marker runs through the middle of the paw
back. Follow the toy symmetry by yourselves and make replacement loops (RL) while the marker
moves. The pattern indicates where RL were done, but if you use yarn that is significantly thicker than
mine, then you will need to perform the RL more often.

Rnd 1: make a chain from 4 ch and starting from the 2nd ch from the hook crochet: 2 sc, 3 sc into the
last loop and crochet on another side sc, inc (8)

Rnd 2: inc, sc, inc х 3, sc, inc х 2 (14)

Rnd 3: 5 sc, 2 hdc crochet together, 5 sc, dec (12)

Rnd 4: dec, 3 sc, 2 hdc crochet together, 5 sc (10)

Rnd 5: (3 sc, dec) х 2 times (8)

If desired, you can insert an insole into the foot so that the foot does not become deformed after
stuffing (this is important if your yarn is thicker than mine). But! If the insole is made to fit the entire
foot size, it will interfere with the formation of the toes (canvas swifting, see below after the right paw
description), you will need to either pierce the cardboard and get the needle into the same holes, or
make a shortened version of the insole. I didn't put the insole in.

Rnd 6: sc in each st around (8)

Rnd 7: inc, 3 sc, inc х 2, 2 sc (11) (RL)

Rnd 8: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc х 2, 2 sc, inc, sc (15)

Rnd 9: crochet 2 sc behind the back semi-loop only (mark free semi-
loops with a contrast thread), sc, inc, 2 sc, inc х 2, 5 sc, crochet 2 sc
in back semi-loop only (18)
Rnd 10: sc in each st around (18)

Rnd 11: crochet inc х 2 on free semi-loops of 9th row, further crochet through the previous raw (miss 2
loops), 4 sc, inc, sc, inc, 7 sc, crochet inc х 2 on free semi-loops of 9th row (24)

Additional contrast threads can be removed.

Rearrange marker.

Rnd 12: crochet along the new former circle 24 sc (24) (RL)

Rnd 13: sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, sc (26)

Rnd 14: sc in each st around (26)

Rnd 15: 6 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) х 2 times, 10 sc (23)

Insert the frame. It is needed in order to fix crocheted shapes, which may lose their clarity after
stuffing the detail if the yarn is soft. I used steel wire with a diameter of 0.9 mm and made a loop for
the foot in the middle of the piece. Wrap the frame with a fabric adhesive plaster outside the loop.
Bend the frame (see photo) and fix the foot position.
 Frame location inside the paw.

Stuff the paw, don't overdo the foot. Insert a cotter pin with a disk with a diameter of 15 mm
between the 13th and 14th rows in the middle of the paw inner side. Remove the excess frame and bend
the wire edge into an arc.

Rnd 16: 4 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) х 2 times, 9 sc (20)

Rnd 17: 8 sc, dec х 2, 8 sc (18)

Rnd 18: dec х 9 (9)

Add some filler, if necessary.

Before closing the hole, you can insert a needle and thread inside, which you will use to swift the
foot and form the toes (sewing thread in 2 layers, darker in color than your yarn), thereby hiding the
knot inside.

Sew up the hole. If you sew the hole only behind the front semi-loops, the top of the detail will be
less sharp.

Kartopu Nubuk green color, hook # 1.25 Amour. The marker runs through the middle of the paw
back. Follow the toy symmetry by yourselves and make replacement loops (RL) while the marker
moves.
Rnd 1: make a chain from 4 ch and starting from the 2nd ch from the hook crochet: 2 sc, 3 sc into the
last loop and crochet on another side sc, inc (8)

Rnd 2: inc, sc, inc х 3, sc, inc х 2 (14)

Rnd 3: 5 sc, 2 hdc crochet together, 5 sc, dec (12)

Rnd 4: dec, 3 sc, 2 hdc crochet together, 5 sc (10)

Rnd 5: (3 sc, dec) х 2 times (8)

Insert the insole if you`ve decided to use it.

Rnd 6: sc in each st around (8)

Rnd 7: inc, 3 sc, inc х 2, 2 sc (11) (RL)

Rnd 8: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc х 2, 2 sc, inc, sc (15)

Rnd 9: crochet 2 sc behind the back semi-loop only (mark free semi-loops with a contrast thread), 5 sc,
inc х 2, 2 sc, inc, sc, crochet 2 sc in back semi-loop only (18)

Rnd 10: sc in each st around (18)

Rnd 11: crochet inc х 2 on free semi-loops of 9th row, further crochet through the previous raw (miss 2
loops), 7 sc, inc, sc, inc, 4 sc, crochet inc х 2 on free semi-loops of 9th row (24)

Rearrange marker.

Rnd 12: crochet along the new former circle 24 sc (24) (RL)

Rnd 13: sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, sc (26)

Rnd 14: sc in each st around (26)

Rnd 15: 10 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) х 2 times, 6 sc (23)

Insert the frame. It is needed in order to fix crocheted shapes, which may lose their clarity after
stuffing the detail if the yarn is soft. I used steel wire with a diameter of 0.9 mm and made a loop for
the foot in the middle of the piece. Wrap the frame with a fabric adhesive plaster outside the loop.
Bend the frame and fix the foot position.

Stuff the paw, don't overdo the foot. Insert a cotter pin with a disk with a diameter of 15 mm
between the 13th and 14th rows in the middle of the paw inner side. Remove the excess frame and bend
the wire edge into an arc.

Rnd 16: 9 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) х 2 times, 4 sc (20) (RL)

Rnd 17: 8 sc, dec х 2, 8 sc (18)

Rnd 18: dec х 9 (9)

 Sew up the hole. If you sew the hole only behind the front semi-loops, the top of the detail will be
less sharp.

Use a needle and sewing thread to swift the canvas and form fingers. You can make 2-3 stitches over
the canvas, if necessary.

Mold claws from baked plastic (they can be glued later, at the final stage of your toy decorating). I
used green Fimo clay and added some black clay to it. Keep in mind that, as a rule, after baking the clay
darkens by at least 1 tone. Bake the details according to the instructions (see on the package: usually
130 or 110 degrees, bake for 30 minutes), cool them.

In order for the claws on the lower paws to look down, you need to cut the edge at an angle of about
45 degrees. I used a utility knife for this purpose. Fix the claws with super glue.

The upper paw differ only in rows 15 and 16. But the paws have a roll/tilt in different directions: the
right one is slightly tilted to the left, and the left one - to the right, so that the upper paws “hug” the
body, and do not stick out forward. Therefore, the RL in the paws are not symmetrical.
 Kartopu Nubuk green color, hook # 1.25 Amour. The marker runs aside the outer paw side. Follow
the toy symmetry by yourselves and make replacement loops (RL) while the marker moves. The pattern
indicates where RL were done, but if you use yarn that is significantly thicker than mine, then you will
need to perform the RL more often.

Rnd 1: make a chain from 4 ch and starting from the 2nd ch from the hook crochet: 2 sc, 3 sc into the
last loop and crochet on another side sc, inc (8)

Rnds 2 – 3: sc in each st around (8)

Rnd 4: 4 sc, crochet 3 sc behind the back semi-loop only (mark free semi-loops with a contrast thread),
sc (8)

Rnd 5: sc, inc х 2, 5 sc (10)

Rnd 6: 6 sc, crochet sc, inc, sc on free semi-loops of 4th row, further through the main row 1 sc (11)

Rnd 7: 2 sc, inc, 8 sc (12)

Rnd 8: sc in each st around (12) (RL)

Rnd 9: sc, crochet 3 sc behind the back semi-loop only (mark free semi-loops with a contrast thread),
continue crocheting behind the both loops walls: 3 sc, inc, sc, inc, 2 sc (14)

Rnd 10: sc, crochet sc, inc, sc on free semi-loops of 9th row, further crochet through the previous raw
10 sc (15) (RL)

Rnd 11: 9 sc, (2 hdc crochet together) х 2 times, 2 sc (13)

Rnd 12: 2 sc, inc, 6 sc, 2 hdc crochet together, 2 sc (13)

Rnd 13: 2 sc, inc, sc, inc, 5 sc, 2 hdc crochet together, sc (14) (RL)

Rnd 14: 3 sc, inc, 10 sc (15)

Rnd 15: 2 hdc crochet together, 2 sc, inc, 8 sc, 2 hdc crochet together (14) (RL)

Insert a cotter pin with a disk with a diameter of 9 mm between rows the 13th and 14th in the middle
of the paw inner side. Insert the frame (fold a piece of copper wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm in a half
and wrap it with a fabric adhesive plaster) and stuff the foot. If you use thin yarn, like mine, you don’t
have to insert the frame into the palm so that it doesn’t interfere with the formation of fingers in the
future.

Rnd 16: dec х 3, 6 sc, dec (10)

Add the filler.

Rnd 17 (incomplete): dec х 3 (3)

Cut the thread and loop it.

 Kartopu Nubuk green color, hook # 1.25 Amour. The marker runs aside the outer paw side. Follow
the toy symmetry by yourselves and make replacement loops (RL) while the marker moves. The pattern
indicates where RL were done, but if you use yarn that is significantly thicker than mine, then you will
need to perform the RL more often.

Rnd 1: make a chain from 4 ch and starting from the 2nd ch from the hook crochet: 2 sc, 3 sc into the
last loop and crochet on another side sc, inc (8)

Rnds 2 – 3: sc in each st around (8)

Rnd 4: 4 sc, crochet 3 sc behind the back semi-loop only (mark free semi-loops with a contrast thread),
sc (8)

Rnd 5: sc, inc х 2, 5 sc (10)

Rnd 6: 6 sc, crochet sc, inc, sc on free semi-loops of 4th row, further through the main row 1 sc (11)

Rnd 7: 2 sc, inc, 8 sc (12)

Rnd 8: sc in each st around (12) (RL)

Rnd 9: sc, crochet 3 sc behind the back semi-loop only (mark free semi-loops with a contrast thread),
continue crocheting behind the both loops walls: 3 sc, inc, sc, inc, 2 sc (14)

Rnd 10: inc, crochet sc, inc, sc on free semi-loops of 9th row, further crochet through the previous raw
10 sc (15)

Rnd 11: 9 sc, (2 hdc crochet together) х 2 times, 2 sc (13)

Rnd 12: 2 sc, inc, 6 sc, 2 hdc crochet together, 2 sc (13)

Rnd 13: 2 sc, inc, sc, inc, 5 sc, 2 hdc crochet together, sc (14) (RL)

Rnd 14: 3 sc, inc, 10 sc (15)

Rnd 15: 4 sc, inc, 2 sc, (2 hdc crochet together) х 2 times, 4 sc (14)

Insert a cotter pin with a disk with a diameter of 9 mm between rows the 13th and 14th in the middle
of the paw inner side. Insert the frame (fold a piece of copper wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm in a half
and wrap it with a fabric adhesive plaster) and stuff the foot. If you use thin yarn, like mine, you don’t
have to insert the frame into the palm so that it doesn’t interfere with the formation of fingers in the
future.

Rnd 16: 4 sc, dec х 4, 2 sc (10)

Add some filler if required.

Rnd 17 (incomplete): dec х 3 (3)

 Cut the thread and loop it.

Swift the canvas and form fingers using a needle and sewing thread. If necessary, you can make 2-3
stitches over the canvas. If you have not hidden the knot from the sewing thread inside before closing
the paw, you can hide it near the cotter pin. Make claws (similarly with the lower paws), fix them with
super glue. We fix the claws closer to the upper border of the paw edge.

Tongue.
Kartopu Nubuk coral color, hook # 1.25 Amour. We use the marker only to track the beginning of
the row. To strengthen the tongue I used beaded wire with a diameter of 0.3 mm. Leave the ends of
the wire 5-7 cm long outside the detail.

Rnd 1: make a chain from 16 ch and starting from the 2nd ch from the hook crochet: 14 sc, 3 sc into the
last loop and crochet on another side 13 sc, inc (32)

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in one st, 3 hdc, 11 sc, crochet [sc, hdc, sc] in one loop, 11 sc, 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next st, sc
(36)

Rnd 3: sc, further crochet together with the wire: 3 hdc in one st, 15 sc, crochet [sc, hdc, sc] in one
loop, 15 sc, 3 hdc in next st, leave the ends of the wire outside the canvas, 2 sc (42)

Rnd 4 (incomplete): 2 sc, sl st (3)

Cut the thread and loop it.

 Head lower part.
Start crocheting with Kartopu Nubuk yellow color, hook # 1.25 Amour. Do not replace the marker
by yourselves. The loops which have to be crocheted with a green color yarn are marked with a red
script.

Rnd 1: make a chain from 5 ch and starting from the 2nd ch from the hook crochet: 3 sc, 3 sc into the
last loop and crochet on another side 2 sc, inc (10)

Rnd 2: inc, 2 sc, inc х 3, 2 sc, inc х 2 (16)

Rnd 3: sc, inc, 2 sc, (sc, inc) х 3 times, 2 sc, (sc, inc) х 2 times (22)

Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, (2 sc, inc) х 3 times, 2 sc, (2 sc, inc) х 2 times (28)

Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc, 2 sc, (3 sc, inc) х 3 times, 2 sc, (3 sc, inc) х 2 times (34)

Attention!! Do not crochet 1 loop at the next row before the marker and move the marker. Start
crocheting the 7th row from that loop which remained uncrocheted at the 6th row.

Rnd 6: sc, 3 hdc, inc, 2 sc, (4 sc, inc) х 3 times, 6 sc, 2 hdc in next st, hdc, 3 sc (38)

Rnd 7: 3 sc, 2 hdc in next st, inc, 7 sc, inc х 2, 2 sc, inc х 2, 6 sc, inc х 2, 7 sc, inc, 2 hdc in next st, 4 sc
(49)

Rnd 8: 4 sc, 3 hdc in next st, inc, 10 sc, crochet 14 sl st in front semi-loop only, continue crocheting
behind the both loops walls: 6 sc, 6 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 6 sc (54)
Rnd 9 (incomplete): 6 sc, 3 sc in next st (1st sc crochet with yellow yarn, 2nd and 3rd – crochet with green
yarn), 12 sc, along sl st of 8th row crochet 14 sc, 14 sc (49)

Cut the thread and loop it. The marker can be removed.

Inner mouth part.

Kartopu Nubuk pink color, hook # 1.25. All the time we will be crocheting together with a bead wire
to make the inner mouth part not so soft and the canvass does not sag after filling (I have the wire with
0,3 mm in a diameter). Remain the wire ends about 5 cm in length to twist them between each other.
If you are using a thicker yarn, you`d better crochet the last raw together with a copper wire so that
the carcass better keeps the mouth in a ready toy. Do not move the marker by yourselves.

Rnd 1: make a chain from 17 ch and starting from the 2nd ch from the hook crochet: 15 sc, 3 sc into the
last loop and crochet on another side 14 sc, inc (34)

Rnd 2: inc, 14 sc, inc х 3, 14 sc, inc х 2 (40)

Rnd 3: sc, 2 hdc in next st, 4 hdc, 10 sc, (sc, inc) х 3 times, 10 sc, 5 hdc, 2 hdc in next st, sc, inc (46)
Rnd 4: 2 sc, 2 hdc in next st, 6 hdc, 10 sc, inc, sc, make a chain from 9 ch, insert wire (cut from the spool
with a stock so that it is enough for the entire detail: I needed about 35-40 cm, the thicker the yarn,
the greater the wire consumption) into the loop near the hook, bend it and fix with round pliers, then
together with the wire starting from the 2nd ch from the hook crochet 8 sc, further along the main detail
part 4 sc, inc, 8 sc, 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next st, 2 sc, inc (68)

top

8 sc 9 ch

Rnd 5: 3 sc, 2 hdc in next st, 7 hdc, 10 sc, inc, 2 hdc, 7 sc, inc (crochet into the top), 7 sc, 2 hdc, inc, 13
sc, 8 hdc, inc, 3 sc, inc (74)

Rnd 6 (incomplete): 4 sc, inc, 19 sc, 4 hdc, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, 4 hdc, 2 sc, sl st (52)

Count 2 loops as you crochet from the loop in which the sl st is crocheted and put an additional
marker into the 3rd loop. Twist the ends of the wire together from the wrong detail side.

Nostrils (2 pcs).
Yarn YarnArt Jeans green color, footage 160 m /50 g, I used 3 threads out of 4. Hook # 1.25 Amour.
Important: the yarn for the nostrils must be hard, so that after joining with the head main part, the
nostrils keep their shape and the holes do not “slam shut”.

I crocheted inside out so that the finished detail would have the nostrils facing right side out. But if
you use not very thick yarn, then this does not matter, because the holes are small, right side or wrong
side - the difference is not visible in the finished detail.

Rnd 1: 6 sc into the center of the ring, pull tail to close ring (6)
Rnd 2: (2 sc, inc) х 2 times (8)

Crochet sl st at the end of detail, cut the thread and loop it.

Nose.
Kartopu Nubuk green color, hook # 1.25. Do not move the marker by yourselves.

Rnd 1: make a chain from 4 ch and starting from the 2nd ch from the hook crochet: 2 sc, 3 sc into the
last loop and crochet on another side sc, inc (8)

Rnd 2: inc, sc, inc х 3, sc, make a chain from 3 ch and starting from the 2nd ch from the hook crochet 2
sc, crochet along the mail detail inc х 2 (19)

Rnd 3: 8 sc (you can mark the 5th loop with an additional marker for your convenience), crochet 4 sc
with nostril (the 1st common loop is there where nostril crocheting has been finished), inc (into the top
of chain ch), crochet 4 sc with 2nd nostril, 2 sc (20)
Rnd 4 (incomplete): 1 sc (1)

Cut the thread and loop it.

The butterfly is held on the Crocodile's nose by magnets inside the butterfly's body and the nose of
the crocodile's head. If you use a magnet, you will need to insert it BEFORE the top and inner head
parts are connected: move the nostrils aside (see the photo above), put the magnet and cover it with
the nostrils. This can be done later, when the entire head upper part is ready.

Head upper part.

Kartopu Nubuk green color, hook # 1.25. Do not move the marker by yourselves.

Rnd 1: make a chain from 9 ch and starting from the 2nd ch from the hook crochet: 7 sc, 3 sc into the
last loop and crochet on another side 6 sc, inc (18)

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in next st, hdc, 5 sc, inc х 3, 5 sc, hdc, 2 hdc in next st, inc (24)

Rnd 3: sc, 2 hdc in next st, 2 hdc, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next st, inc х 2 (30)
Rnd 4: sc, 3 hdc in next st (double increase), 3 hdc, 7 sc, crochet 4 sc with nose (fold the parts with the
right sides facing each other, the 1st joint loop is 4 loops before the end of the nose crocheting, i.e. we
start with a loop with an additional marker), further crochet along the main detail: 7 sc, 3 hdc, 3 hdc in
next st (double increase), 3 sc (34)

Rnd 5: 3 sc, 3 hdc in next st (double increase), 9 sc, dec [hdc + sc] (crochet the 1st loop of the decrease
with a hdc along the main part, the 2nd – sc along the nose), 3 sc, crochet 4 sc along the external/free
side of the nostril, 2 sc, crochet 4 sc along the external/free side of the 2nd nostril, 3 sc, dec [sc + hdc]
(crochet the 1st loop of the decrease with a sc along the main part, the 2nd – hdc along the nose), 10 sc,
3 hdc in next st (double increase), 4 sc (50)

Attention! One loop will be uncrocheted and the marker will be moved in the next row. If you are
using thicker yarn, be sure to check the marker position because we will be forming the cheeks in the
next row.

Rnd 6: (inc, sc) х 2 times, crochet (3 hdc in next st) х 2 times in front semi-loop only (mark free semi-
loops with a contrast thread), continue crocheting behind the both loops walls: 11 sc, dec х 2, 6 sc, dec
х 2, 2 sc, hdc (to align the row height), 8 sc, crochet (3 hdc in next st) х 2 times in front semi-loop only
(mark free semi-loops with a contrast thread), continue crocheting behind the both loops walls: (sc,
inc) х 2 times, inc (58)
 Connect the head top with the mouth inside part. We do not fasten the main thread (after finishing
the 6th row crocheting), crocheting will be continued. At this point for your work you can either take
the thread tip from the other skein side, or cut the main thread off and then reattach it. If you want to
use a magnet, you need to install it now before access is difficult.

To strengthen the jaw (both upper and lower ones!) I used copper wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm.
You need to leave the wire ends about 5-7 cm each outside the jaw.

Fold the details with the wrong sides facing each other; the narrower part of the pink detail will be
connected to the head top. The first joint loop for the pink part is the one into which the additional
marker is inserted.

We start crocheting from the free semi-loops of the 6th row (from the first one in the crocheting
process), crochet together with the wire, simultaneously along the green and pink canvas: 2 sc along
the free semi-loops of the 6th row, go to the main canvas (the 1st loop after hdc , i.e. after the cheek)
15 sc, 2 hdc, 15 sc, 2 sc along the free semi-loops of the 6th row. Cut the thread and loop it.
 Additional markers can be removed from the pink canvass and from the free semi-loops.

Connect the head upper part with the lower one (attach the mouth lower part and the inner sides
to the wrong sides). Continue crocheting with the main thread after finishing the 6th row. We start
crocheting from the loop that remains uncrocheted.

2 loops will remain uncrocheted on the right (for the head) side and 3 loops on the left side on the
pink canvass in the “corners”; these gaps will need to be sewn with sewing thread to match the canvas.

Rnd 7: (inc, sc) х 2 times, 3 sc, 6 hdc, next we crochet along the mouth lower part, passing 3 loops from
the lower jaw edge, simultaneously along the green and pink canvases (insert the hook into the 3rd free
loop of the pink fabric) together with wire 36 sc, go to the head upper part: 6 hdc (we start with a free
loop that remains uncrocheted - cheek), 5 sc, inc, 2 sc (66)

At this stage of readiness, we put the head aside and begin crocheting the body. The head will be
crocheted into, crocheting from the center will be continued, so do not tighten the working loop.
 Kartopu Nubuk green color, hook # 1.25. The loops which have to be crocheted with a yellow color
yarn are marked with a red script. Since we are crocheting on the face, we can crochet with broaches,
we just need to make sure that they are not short and do not tighten the canvas.

The marker runs through the middle of the tail upper part. Follow the toy symmetry by yourselves
and make replacement loops (RL) while the marker moves. The pattern indicates where RL were done,
but if you use yarn that is significantly thicker than mine, then you will need to perform the RL more
often.

Rnd 1: 5 sc into the center of the ring, pull tail to close ring (5)

Rnd 2: sc in each st around (5)

Rnd 3: 4 sc, inc (6)

Rnd 4: 5 sc, inc (7)

Rnd 5: sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, sc (9)

Rnds 6 – 7: sc in each st around (9)

Rnd 8: (sc, inc) х 2 times, sc, (inc, sc) х 2 times (13)

Rnds 9 – 10: sc in each st around (13)

Rnd 11: sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, sc (15)

Rnd 12: (4 sc, inc) х 3 times (18)

Rnd 13: sc in each st around (18) (RL)

Rnd 14: (5 sc, inc) х 3 times (21)

Rnd 15: (6 sc, inc) х 3 times (24)

Rnds 16 – 17: sc in each st around (24)

Rnd 18: 2 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 2 sc (26)

Rnds 19 – 22 (4 rounds): sc in each st around (26)

Rnd 23: (2 sc, inc) х 2 times, 14 sc, (inc, 2 sc) х 2 times (30) (RL)

Rnds 24 – 25: sc in each st around (30)

Rnd 26: (3 sc, inc) х 3 times, 6 sc, (inc, 3 sc) х 3 times (36)

Rnd 27: 17 sc, 2 sc, 17 sc (36)

Rnd 28: 3 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 6 sc, 4 sc, 6 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 3 sc (40)
Rnd 29: 17 sc, 6 sc, 17 sc (40)

Rnd 30: (3 sc, inc) х 3 times, 4 sc, 8 sc, 4 sc, (inc, 3 sc) х 3 times (46)

Rnd 31: 18 sc, 10 sc, 18 sc (46)

Rnd 32 (incomplete): 18 sc (18)

Cut the thread and loop it. Do not remove the marker.

Body.
!! Please note that loops crocheted with yellow yarn in the tail and loops are crocheted with green
yarn in the body are marked with red.

Kartopu Nubuk yellow color, hook # 1.25. The loops which have to be crocheted with a green color
yarn are marked with a red script. The marker runs through the backside middle. Follow the toy
symmetry by yourselves and make replacement loops (RL) while the marker moves.

Rnd 1: 6 sc into the center of the ring, pull tail to close ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc х 6 (12)

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) х 6 times (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) х 6 times (24)

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) х 6 times (30) (RL)

Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) х 6 times (36)

The crocodile has folds on its tummy. They are formed by two rows: first we crochet sl st, then along
the front sl st loops. Attention! The tighter/more densely the row of sl st is crocheted, the worse the
fold will be expressed. You don't need to crochet it loosely, just don't pull the sl st too tight. After a row
where part of the loops are crocheted with sl st, do not make additional RL!
Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) х 2 times, 12 sl st, (inc, 5 sc) х 2 times (40)

Rnd 8: (4 sc, inc) х 2 times, 3 sc, inc, along sl st crochet 3 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 3 sc in front semi-loop only,
continue crocheting behind the both loops walls: inc, 3 sc, (inc, 4 sc) х 2 times (48)

Rnd 9: (5 sc, inc) х 8 times (56)

Check the marker position, further the tail will be crocheted into.

Rnd 10: 10 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 5 sc, crochet 5 sc together with 5 sc of
tail (the 1st joint loop - with yellow yarn, first insert the hook into the tail from the inside, then into the
body) (62)

The description of 11 – 15 rows is united.

Rnds 11 – 15: crochet 5 sc together with 5 sc of tail, along the body 2 sc, 48 sc, sc, 2 hdc crochet
together (1 loop of body + 1 loop of tail), sc, make a chain from 16 ch, miss 32 loops, sc (mark with an
additional marker; for further crocheting you can mark the 1st sc by analogy and then remove the
marker), 2 hdc crochet together (1 loop of tail + 1 loop of body), 3 sc, (3 sc, inc) х 3 times, 20 sc, (inc, 3
sc) х 3 times, 3 sc, dec, further we crochet along the tail 3 sc, make a chain from 16 ch, miss 26 loops,
2 sc, 1 sc (into the top of marked sc), dec (the ch chain remains on the right), 5 sc, 5 sc, 36 sl st, 5 sc, 4
sc, 3 st crochet together (2 hdc + sc), 2 sc, further along the free tail part 3 sc, make a chain from 16
ch, miss 20 loops, 3 sc, 2 sc (the ch chain remains on the right), 3 st crochet together (sc + 2 hdc), 6 sc,
3 sc, along 36 sl st crochet only along the free semi-loops 36 sc, 3 sc, 4 sc, dec х 2, 4 sc, further along
the free tail part 4 sc, make a chain from 10 ch, miss 12 loops, 8 sc (the ch chain remains on the right),
dec х 2, 5 sc, 40 sc, 5 sc, 3 st crochet together (2 hdc + sc), 7 sc, further along the free tail part 2 sc,
dec, 2 sc.
 Continue using the tail marker.

Rnd 16: 2 sc, dec, 2 sc (the ch chain remains on the right), 7 sc, 3 st crochet together (sc + 2 hdc), 6 sc,
38 sc, 6 sc, 2 hdc crochet together, 11 sc (75)

Rnd 17: 11 sc, 2 hdc crochet together, 7 sc, 36 sc, 19 sc (74) (RL)

Rnd 18: 10 sc, 2 hdc, 8 sc, 34 sc, 7 sc, 2 hdc, 11 sc (74)

Rnd 19: 20 sc, sc, 32 sl st, sc, 20 sc (74)

Rnd 20: 21 sc, crochet 32 sc in front semi-loop only, 21 sc (74)

Rnd 21: 10 sc, dec, 10 sc, 30 sc, 10 sc, dec, 10 sc (72)

Rnd 22: 21 sc, 30 sc, 21 sc (72)

Rnd 23: 9 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 2 sc, 30 sc, 2 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 9 sc (68)

Rnd 24: 20 sc, sc, 26 sl st, sc, 20 sc (68)

Rnd 25: 20 sc, sc, crochet 26 sc in front semi-loop only, sc, 20 sc (68) (RL)

Rnd 26: 20 sc, 28 sc, 20 sc (68)

Rnd 27: 3 sc, dec, 15 sc, 7 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 7 sc, 15 sc, dec, 3 sc (64)

Rnd 28: 19 sc, 26 sc, 19 sc (64)

Rnd 29: 19 sc, sc, 24 sl st, sc, 19 sc (64)

Rnd 30: 8 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, sc, sc, crochet 24 sc in front semi-loop only, sc, sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 8 sc (60)

Rnd 31: 2 sc, dec, 14 sc, 5 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) х 3 times, 5 sc, 14 sc, dec, 2 sc (54)

Mark with a contrasting thread the places for attaching the upper paws: in the 31 st row, 3-4 loops
away from the tummy.

Rnd 32: 17 sc, 20 sc, 17 sc (54)

Rnd 33: 9 sc, dec, 6 sc, (3 sc, dec) х 2 times, (dec, 3 sc) х 2 times, 6 sc, dec, 9 sc (48)

Attach the lower paws. Insert the cotter pin 1-2 rows above the second fold (see the photo),
retreating 3 loops along the yellow canvas. I used 18 mm diameter discs inside the body. The size of
the disc should be comparable to the diameter of the detail: if it is much smaller, the paws will stick
out strongly relative to the body.
Rnd 34: 3 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 2 sc, sc, 14 sl st, sc, 2 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 3 sc (44)

Rnd 35: 15 sc, crochet 14 sc in front semi-loop only, 15 sc (44) (RL)

Rnd 36: 2 sc, dec, 11 sc, 3 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 3 sc, 11 sc, dec, 2 sc (44)

Rnd 37: 14 sc, 5 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 5 sc, 14 sc (46)

Rnd 38: 15 sc, 16 sc, 15 sc (46)

You can attach the upper paws now, as long as the head does not make access difficult (I attached
it later). Stuff the body; if desired, you can make the toy heavier (not for stability, but to give it a
pleasant heaviness). I sewed 20 grams of metal granulate into a nylon bag and placed it at the tail base.
If desired, you can insert a frame into the tail. The thicker the yarn you use, the less useful the frame
is: the tail is thick and only the tail tip can be slightly tilted to the side.

Check the position of the marker, then we will be crocheting the head into.

Rnd 39: 15 sc, 4 sc, crochet 8 sc together with 8 loops of lower part of the head (digress 3 sc along the
head, along the yellow canvass, and insert the hook into the 4th loop), 4 sc, 15 sc (46)

Rnd 40: 15 sc, 1 sc, crochet 3 sc with yellow yarn simultaneously along the body and along the free
yellow canvass of the head lower part (first insert the hook from the inside into the head lower part,
then into the body), 8 sc along the general row, crochet 3 sc with yellow yarn simultaneously along the
body and along the lower part of the head, along the body 1 sc, 10 sc, dec, 3 sc (45)

Rnd 41 (incomplete): 3 sc, dec, 9 sc, sl st (14)

 Cut the thread and loop it.

Now the crocheting will be continued from the

head center using only green yarn. The body marker that runs through the back middle can be
removed.

Rnd 42: (sc, inc) х 2 times, 5 sc, crochet 6 hdc together (for both walls of the loops), sc (into the joint
between the jaws), then we crochet along the head bottom (there were 3 free loops left after
connecting the top and bottom parts of the head), 2 sc, dec (1 loop along the green canvass and 1 loop
along the yellow fabric), 28 sc, dec (1 loop along the yellow fabric and 1 loop along the green canvass),
2 sc, sc (in joint), crochet 6 hdc together, 5 sc, (inc, sc) х 2 times (60)

The thicker the yarn is the larger the “hole” will be after crocheting 6 hdc into one loop. The hole
from Nubuk is not noticeable, but if your yarn is much thicker, you may need to use sewing thread to
match the canvas to reduce the hole.

The head upper part will not be stuffed. If you are using thicker yarn, you may need to glue the green
and pink canvases on the inside (a few evenly applied drops of glue are enough) to prevent the top
from puffing up. Twist the jaw frame together into one bundle.

Rnd 43: 12 sc, dec [hdc + sc], dec, 7 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, dec [sc + hdc], 7 sc, crochet inc х 2, (2
hdc in next st) х 2 times in front semi-loop only and form an eyebrow, crochet 1 sc for both walls of the
loops (58)

Mark free semi-loops with a contrast thread.

Rnd 44: sc, crochet (2 hdc in next st) х 2 times, inc х 2 in front semi-loop only and form an eyebrow
(mark the 1st free semi-loop with a contrast thread), further crochet for both walls of the loops 7 sc, 3
sc crochet together (double decrease), 26 sc, 3 sc crochet together (double decrease), 5 sc, dec х 4 + at
the same time, fix each decrease for the free semi-loops of the 43rd row, sc (54)
 To fix the decreasing in a free semi-loop, you need BEFORE the decreasing is closed (there are
3 loops on the hook) insert the hook into the free semi-loop, grab the working thread and pull
through all the loops on the hook.

Rnd 45: sc, dec х 4 + at the same time, fix each decrease for the free semi-loops of the 44rd row, 6 sc, 3
sc crochet together, dec, 20 sc, dec, 3 sc crochet together, 9 sc (44) (RL)

Attach the upper paws if you have not done that before. I used 12mm diameter discs inside the
body. Insert the wire ends from the tongue at the fold border of the mouth inside, fix the tongue with
super glue (apply glue to the tongue base and glue it to the pink canvass fold). Connect the frame to
the main bundle and wrap it with a fabric adhesive plaster.
Rnd 46: 9 sc, 3 sc crochet together, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc crochet together, 5 sc, dec,
2 sc (35)

Rnd 47: 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, 3 sc crochet together, 12 sc, 3 sc crochet together, 8 sc (30)

Add filler to the body and cheeks. I didn't stuff the head bottom, but if you're using thicker yarn, you
can add a little filler into the center.

Rnd 48: (3 sc, dec) х 6 times (24)

Rnd 49: (2 sc, dec) х 6 times (18)

Add some filler into the body.

Rnd 50: (sc, dec) х 6 times (12)

Rnd 51: dec х 6 (6)

If you use a harder yarn you can crochet only 1-2 decreasings in the
51st row and sew the hole up.

Cut the thread and loop it.

Head decoration.
The design of the crocodile uses baked clay parts. You can prepare everything and bake it together.

Swift the eye sockets. The width and height of the nose bridge depend on your crocodile image and
the size of the eyes. I used glass eyes with a diameter of 6 mm. I made the whites from white Cernit
bakeable clay with the addition of a small amount of dry yellow Soft Pastel #004. Bake the whites
according to the instructions (if the eyes are glass, you can bake with them), usually for 30 minutes at
a temperature of 130 degrees. Cool them.
 To swift, fix a strong thread 2
loops to the left (if you look at the
crocodile’s head) of the head
center, in the place where the
canvass changes direction and go through all swift points. Shape
the nose bridge. Glue the eyes with super glue.

Mold a comb. I used the same color clay as for the claws. Bake
the parts according to the instructions on your plastic packaging,
cool them. Fix the comb with super glue.

Mold teeth from white baked clay. There is no need to make them very sharp, otherwise instead of
a smile you will end up with a grin. In order for the side teeth to be positioned slightly at an angle
outward you need to cut the base of the tooth diagonally; this is more convenient to do after the teeth
are already hard. Fix the teeth with super glue.
 I used dry pastels to slightly tint the eyebrows and cheeks.

Your crocodile is ready!

Butterfly`s body is crocheted from YarnArt Canarias black color, hook # 0.75 Amour.

Use the marker only to track the row beginning, there is no need to do RL. I didn't stuff the body.

Rnd 1: 6 sc into the center of the ring, pull tail to close ring (6)

Rnd 2: (sc, inc) х 3 times (9)

Rnd 3: sc in each st around (9)

Rnd 4: (sc, dec) х 3 times (6)

Rnd 5: inc х 6 (12)

Rnd 6: (3 sc, inc) х 3 times (15)

Rnds 7 – 8: sc in each st around (15)

Insert a magnet. The body is the same on top and bottom, so at this stage it doesn’t matter which
side has which magnet polarity.

Rnd 9: (3 sc, dec) х 3 times (12)

Rnd 10: sc in each st around (12)

Rnd 11: dec х 6 (6)

Rnds 12 – 15 (4 rounds): sc in each st around (6)

Rnd 16: decreases until closing.

Cut the thread and loop it.

To make the wings I used polymer clay Cernit Metallic.

Sequencing:

Decide on the wing shape you want to use

Transfer the drawing from your phone/computer screen to paper (you can use tracing paper or
food parchment

Knead the clay well, use a rolling pin or dots to roll out a thin layer, trace and cut out the wings (4
separate wings); You can use a floral mold weiner (ready-made or make it yourself) to apply the
texture)
You can add some tint if you desire

Make eyes (cut a small ball of clay in half) and antennae (put small balls on pieces of bead wire)

Bake the wings according to the instructions on your plastic package, let the parts cool. In order to
better fix the tint, you can coat the wings with varnish for baked plastic. It is better to fix the balls
on the antennae with super glue after baking.
Before gluing the wings, it is NECESSARY to check which side of the butterfly’s body is drawn to the
crocodile’s nose. Glue the eyes and antennae on.
 Butterfly net.
Sequences:

I used copper wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm to make a frame. The diameter of my net is 4.5
cm.

Make a handle from baked plastic, bake the part and cool it

Cut the fabric adhesive plaster into thin strips and wrap the ring around the net

Prepare a mesh from tulle (it is better to use soft or medium hardness): adjust the pattern to
size using scaling, cut the blank from the fabric, leaving seam allowances
 Fold the piece in a half, face side inward. Using a sewing thread matching the color of the
canvass, sew a straight edge and turn the workpiece inside out. Wrap the edge of the canvass
around the frame and sew with sewing thread. You can gather the canvass along the seam line
if desired.

Thank you for your interest in my work! I hope you enjoyed working on
the toy 

If you have any questions I`ll be happy to help you via https://www.etsy.com/shop/PatternsByPortik
See you soon!