Mofu the Tiny Grey Cat

@neith.sand

Copyright:

This pattern is intended for personal use only. It cannot in any way be reproduced,
distributed or resold, translated, published or altered, in whole or in part.
You may sell finished items made from this pattern, provided that they are handmade
by yourself and that you credit Neith Sand Crochet as the designer.
I would love to see your creations on Instagram, tag me in your posts so I can see your
work! (@neith.sand)
Feel free to contact me via Instagram if you have questions about this pattern or need
any help.
I hope you enjoy this pattern!

Copyright 2024 @neith.sand. All rights reserved.

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 Materials you will need: Abbreviations:

- Cotton in the color of your choice (I use grey). (US terminology)

- Cotton in white for the inside of the ears. ch: chain stitch
- Scraps of cotton in pink, black and green to embroider sc: single crochet
the nose and eyes.
slst: slip stitch
- Black sewing thread to embroider the mouth.
inc: increase
- Hook adapted to the chosen cotton. I use a 2.5mm
dec: decrease
hook.
dc: double crochet
- Stuffing.
P: puff stitch
- Yarn needle.
FLO: front loop only
- Safety eyes (6 mm)
- Scissors. MR: magic ring

- Sewing pins.
- Lighter.
- A pipe cleaner for the tail (adapt the color to the color
of the cat’s body so it stays invisible). Alternatively, you
can use craft wire with a small amount of stuffing.

This pattern is for people who know the basics in making amigurumis.
The size of your cat may vary depending on the size of your hook, the size and type of
your yarn, and the tension of your yarn. My cat measures approximately 9cm tall by 4cm
wide and 5cm long (without the tail). Adapt the size of the safety eyes if you’re using
thinner or thicker yarn.

Recommendations:

This amigurumi is not intended to be a toy for a child. If you want to turn it into a toy,
do not use a pipe cleaner or craft wire for the tail, do not stuff it at all (as for the
keychain version). If you use a pipe cleaner or wire, it will break if the cat’s tail is bent
too often.
If you’re making it for a child under 3, it’s best to embroider the eyes rather than using
safety eyes. I take precautions to ensure that the eyes can't be torn off by melting the
stem and flattening the end, but it's best not to take any chances if you're intending
this model for a young child.

Mofu the Cat is worked in continuous rounds. The information in square brackets [] are
to be repeated the indicated number of times. The number of stitches at the end of each
round is indicated in parenthesis (). The photo numbers to be referred to are in red.

Copyright 2024 @neith.sand. All rights reserved.

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Head (grey):

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR (6)

Rnd 2: 6inc (12)
Rnd 3: [1sc, 1inc] x6 (18)
P1
Rnd 4: [1sc, 1inc, 1sc] x6 (24)
Rnd 5 to 7 (3 Rnds): 24sc (24)
Rnd 8: 11sc, [FLO 3inc], 10sc (27)
Rnd 9: 27sc (27)
Rnd 10: 11sc, 3dec, 10sc (24)

Before continuing, insert the safety eyes between Rnd 7 and

8, 6 sc apart (use pins first to find your bearings, P1). The first
P2
eye should fit after the 10th stitch of Rnd 7, and the second
eye after the 16th stitch. The 3 FLO increases of Rnd 8 should
be centred between the eyes. Adjust if needed (P2).
Attach the washers. To prevent accidental release, melt the
end of the stem with a lighter and flatten it with the base of
the lighter (P3 and P4).

P3 P4

(P3 and P4 are from another

pattern, but it’s the same
technique).

Start stuffing and continue as you go.

Rnd 11: [1sc, 1dec, 1sc] x6 (18)
Rnd 12: [1sc, 1dec] x6 (12)
Rnd 13: 6dec (6)
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail (you will use it to shape the head, it needs to be quite
long, around 30cm). Using your needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loops of
the remaining 6sc. Pull tight, make a knot.

Copyright 2024 @neith.sand. All rights reserved.

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You will now ‘sculpt’ the shape of the head.
Take the yarn tail, insert it with the needle through the bottom of the head (P5) and pull
it out as close as possible from one eye (P6). Insert the needle on the other side of the
eye (P7) and pull it out as close as possible from the other eye (P8).
Pull on the thread so that the left eye area ‘sinks’ inside the head (P9). Insert the needle
on the other side of the eye (P10) and pull it out at the bottom of the head (P11).
Pull on the thread so you have the shape shown in pictures P2 and P13. The head should
get more triangular, and you should have inset eyes.
Make knots and weave in the yarn end.

P5 P6 P7

P8 P9 P10

P11 P12 P13

Copyright 2024 @neith.sand. All rights reserved.

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You will now embroider the eye details. Take a green thread. With a needle, insert it
through the bottom of the head and pull it out at the bottom of one eye, as close as
possible from the eye (P14 and P15). Insert the needle on the top of the eye (P15) and
pull it out on the top of the other eye (P16). Insert the needle on the bottom of the eye
(P16), pull it out at the bottom of the head, where the starting green thread is. The green
embroideries should fit on the outside of the eyes. You can use a little glue if the thread
doesn’t hold itself. Make knots, weave in yarn ends.
Repeat the process with a black thread but go from right to left on each eye (P17 to P19).
You should get the result visible on P20.

P14 P15 P16

P17 P18 P19

P20 P21 P22

Embroider the nose with pink cotton between Rnd 8 and 9. Center it between the eyes.
Use P21 and P22 as a reference. Embroider the mouth with black sewing thread (P22).

Copyright 2024 @neith.sand. All rights reserved.

5
Ears (grey and white): (x2)
Back part (grey) (x2):
Rnd 1: 6sc in MR (6)
Stop working here, cut your thread.

Front part (white and grey) (x2):

Start working in white.

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR (6)
Change for grey. Cut the white thread. At the end of Rnd 1, you should have the result
shown in P23. You will now attach the two parts with Rnd 2 of the front part. Rnd 2 is
made in grey by crocheting together the back loops of Rnd 1 (front part) and the sc of
Rnd 1 (back part). (P24).
Rnd 2: [3sc in the next sc, 1sc] x2, 3sc in the next sc (11)
Fasten off, leaving a long thread for sewing. You should have the result shown in P25.
P23 P24 P25

Carefully pin your ears on the head, the

top of the ears on Rnd 2 and the bottom P26 P27
on Rnd 5. There should be approxi-
mately 3sc between the eyes and the
bottom of the ears (P26 and P27).
Check for symmetry from several angles
(P26 to P29), then sew the ears on. You
only need to sew the back of the ears
(P30).
P28 P29 P30

Copyright 2024 @neith.sand. All rights reserved.

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Front paws (grey): (x2) P31 P32
The toes on each front paw are made using the puff
stitch, which consists of 3 unfinished dc assembled.
Here is how to make them:
Make one dc, but don’t make the last step, leave 2
loops on your hook (P31). Make a 2nd incomplete dc, P33 P34
you have 3 loops on your hook (P32). Repeat a third
time, you now have 4 loops on your hook (P33). Yarn
over and pull it through the 4 loops (P34).
Work tight so there is no gap between toes.
Rnd 1: 6sc in MR (6) (P31 to P34 are from another
Rnd 2: 2sc, 2P, 2sc (6) pattern, but it’s the same
technique).
Rnd 3 to 8 (6 Rnds): 6 sc (6)
Fasten off the two front paws. Stuff them lightly, but not all the way to the top of the legs.

Body (grey):

Rnd 1: 6sc in MR (6)

Rnd 2: 6inc (12)
Rnd 3: [1sc, 1inc] x6 (18)
Rnd 4: [1sc, 1inc, 1sc] x6 (24)
Rnd 5: [7sc, 1inc] x3 (27)
P35
Rnd 6 to 9 (4 Rnds): 27sc (27)
Rnd 10: 5sc, 1dec, 8sc, 1dec, 7sc, 1dec, 1sc (24)
You will now join the two front paws to the body.
You first need to locate the 2sc of the back of the paws which are
aligned with the toes. Place your paws with toes facing you (P35)
and locate these 2sc. In my case, these 2sc are the second and
third sc of Rnd 8 (marked by arrows on P36), but you might need P36
to use different sc if these are not in the correct position (which
can vary depending on your tension).
You can use a stitch marker on the third sc of each front paw
(which will be the first to be crocheted) to find your bearings
more easily.

Copyright 2024 @neith.sand. All rights reserved.

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Rnd 11: 2sc joining first front paw, 1sc, 2sc joining second front paw, 19sc (24)

You need to crochet together 2sc of the paw and 2sc of the body.
Start by crocheting the third sc of Rnd 8 of the paw and the first sc of Rnd 10 together
(P37), then do the same for the next sc of the paw and 2nd of Rnd 10. Do the same for
the 2nd paw (P38).
You should get the result visible on P39 at the end of Rnd 11.

P37 P38 P39

Rnd 12: 1inc in the first sc of Rnd 11 joining body with first paw (P40). Then, working on
the 4 remaining sc of first paw: 1inc, 3sc. 1inc on the sc between the paws. Then, working
on the 4 remaining sc of second paw: 3sc, 1inc. 1inc in the 2nd sc of Rnd 11 joining body
with second paw (P41), [3sc, 1dec] x3, 4sc (32)

P40 First inc of Rnd 12 is P41

made in the first sc of Rnd
11 joining body with first
paw.

5th inc of Rnd 12 is made

in the last sc joining body
with second paw.

You will now work only on the outside sc of the paws. P42
Rnd 13: 21sc, 1dec, 1sc, 1dec, 6sc (30)
Rnd 14: 17sc, 1dec, 3sc, 1dec, 4sc, 1dec (27)
Start stuffing the bottom part of the body. Maintain the
front paws close to the body when stuffing, so they
don’t point out (P42). Continue stuffing firmly as you
go.
Rnd 15: 15sc, 6dec (21)
Rnd 16: 2sc, 1dec, [3sc, 1dec] x2, 7sc (18)

Copyright 2024 @neith.sand. All rights reserved.

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Rnd 17: 12sc, 3dec (15) P43
Rnd 18: [3sc, 1dec] x3 (12)
Rnd 19: 12sc (12)
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. You should get the result
visible on P43.
Pin the head to the body using P44 to P46 as a reference to
position the head. The front of the body should be placed
between Rnd 12 and 13 of the head.

P44 P45 P46

Sew the head on. If needed, add more stuffing before completing the sewing.

Tail (grey):

Rnd 1: 4sc in MR (4) P47

Rnd 2: [1sc, 1inc] x2 (6)
Rnd 3 to 21 (19 rnds): 6sc (6)
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail.
Do not stuff with fiberfill. Take the pipe cleaner, bend one
extremity (so it won’t poke out of the tail, P47) and insert it
carefully inside the tail.
Cut the remaining of the pipe cleaner 2 cm past P48
the tail (P48).
Locate the point where you will insert the pipe-
cleaner. It should be between Rnd 5 and 6 of the
body, opposite from the front paws. Check for
symmetry (you can use a pin to mark the exact
place).

Copyright 2024 @neith.sand. All rights reserved.

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Insert the pipe cleaner until the last Rnd of the tail touches the body (P49). Check that no
piece of the pipe cleaner sticks out, then sew the tail on.
If you want to use your cat as a keychain, don’t use a pipe-cleaner, it will break easily if
bent too often. Don’t stuff the tail at all and pin it to the body following P50 and P51,
then sew it in place.

P49 P50 P51

Back paws (grey): (x2)

Rnd 1: 4sc in MR (4)

Rnd 2: [1sc, 1inc] x2 (6)
Rnd 3: 6sc (6)
Don’t stuff the paws.
Rnd 4: Flatten the paw, and crochet 3sc working through both layers (P52, crochet
together the stitches connected with a black line).
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.
You should get the result visible on P53. Pin the two back paws under the body, on Rnd
3. They should be close to the front paws and at the same distance each from the tail
(P54). Check for symmetry, then sew the back paws on.

P52 P53 P54

Copyright 2024 @neith.sand. All rights reserved.

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First, sew Rnd 4 of the paws to the body. To secure the back paws in the perfect position,
you must add one stitch to join the top of the paws to the body.
Pull the needle out on the body one rnd above the back paw (P55), then insert it back
through the paw (P56). Insert it back in the body, make a knot.

P55 P56

Weave in all yarn ends.

You should get the result visible in P57 and P58.

P57 P58

Et voilà, your Tiny Grey Cat is complete!

Thank you for purchasing this pattern!

neith.sand

Copyright 2024 @neith.sand. All rights reserved.

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