Copyright 1957 by PAUL K. GUILLOW, INC., WAKEFIELD, MASS.

KIT DC-27

JAPANESE ZERO
WORLD WAR 2 FLYING MODEL FRONT VIEW

Playing a leading role in the Japanese surprise attack om Pearl

Harbor, the Mitsubishi Zero became the most feared enemy fighter
in the Pacific during the early phase of World War 2. Until the
introduction of the U.S. Hellcats, Corsairs and Lightings, the Zeros
maintained air superiority for the Japanese Naval Air Force.

First carefully remove all die-cut parts from balsa sheets. Lay
parts on a workboard with numbers up for quick identification.
Use model cement for assembling your model. This is obtan-
able at your local hobby dealer or chain store.

ASSEMBLING THE MODEL

TISSUE COVERING
1. Cement NOSE BRACES F-1 on each
semble struts and wheels as shown.
side of fuselage nose.
Cement landing gear to wing.
2. Cement wheel sections together
with printed side out. 7. Add RUDDER FLLETS R-1 and R-2.
3. Build right and left wing frames as 8. Insert common pin thru the top of EXPLODED VIEW
shown on reverse side of this sheet. fuselage and attach one end of
rubber motor.
4. Cement comleted wings to sides of
fueslage hold intil dry. 9. Insert nose bearing in fueslage nose
NOTE: INSERT ENDS OF LEADING
and hook free end of rubber motor
5. Cement STABILIZER to fuselage AND TRAILING EDGES INTO NOTCHES
over propeller shaft.
tail then add RUDDER. FOR CORRECT WING ALIGNMENT RUDDER
11. Add radio mast and aerial as
6. Cut wheel struts to length and as- shown. Add TAILWHEEL and FLAPS AERIAL - BLACK THREAD

RADIO MAST

RUBBER
NOSE BRACE F-1 CEMENT MOTOR USE COMMON PIN FOR
OF EACH SIDE OF FUSELAGE REAR MOTOR MOUNT R-1

R-2

STABILIZER
PLASTIC NOSE
BEARING TAILWHEEL
FUSELAGE FULL SIZE SIDE VIEW WHEEL STRUT 2 REQ.
TRACE AND CUT WHEEL
STOCK: 1 16 1 8
AIR SCOOP FLAP FROM WHITE BOND
PAPER 2 REQ.
WHEEL STRUT FLIGHT INSTRUCTIONS ground, warp stabilizer up.
COMMON Test glide model before making powered After proper corrections, wind motor clockwise
PIN flights. Hold model beneath wing and launch about 100 to 125 turns and launch straight
gently forward like a glider. If plane noses up out. Model can be flown indoors or out.
WHEEL AND into a stall, warp rear edge of stabilizer down Launch into breeze if flown outdoors. Try
STRUT ASSEMBLY slightly do not break. If model dives into R.O.G. flights for added fun.
 KIT DC - 27 NOTE RIB SLANT USE DIHEDRAL GAUGE

WING FRAME LAYOUT SHEET

FRONT VIEW
LEADING EDGE
Build wing frames directly over layouts. First lay 116 18
this sheet on a workboard, then pin a piece of wax
paper over layouts to prevent wood parts from W-4
ROOT RIB W-2
sticking to plan during cementing.
W-1 W-3

STRUT BRACKET W-6

BUILDING WING FRAMES W-5

1. Cut LEADING and TRAILING edges to length and pin in place

on layouts. (Use common pins-) CENTER SPAR
2. Cement die-cut WING RIBS to LEADING and TRAILING EDGES. DIHEDRAL GAUGE W-7 116 18
use dihedral gauge W-7 for correct ROOT RIB angle. (A) DO NOT CEMENT IN PLACE
3. Cut CENTER SPAR to length and cement in place.
4. Add WING TIP W-5; then STRUT BRACKET W-6.
5. Apply second coat of cement to all joints let dry hard!
6. Remove pins and gently lift frames from wax paper. Trim TRIM SPARS TO EXACT
off excess spar lengths. LENGTH SHOWN

RIGHT WING PIN PLACEMENTS

TRAILING EDGE LAYOUT

116 18
END
INSIGNIA
VIEW
W-1
W-2
W-3 W-7
W-6
W-4
W-5

COVERING WING FRAMES

1. Lightly sandpaper frames to remove balsa fuss and any
excess cement.
2. Only tops of frames are covered with tissue. First cover area
between ribs and leading and trailing edges (B) Only apply
cement along front of leading edge and top of ribs and trailing
edge as shown.
3. Cover wing tip separately (C). Trim off excess tissue. TRIM OFF EXCESS SPAR LENGTHS
AFTER FRAMES ARE COMPLETED

AILERON
W-4 SEPERATION
LEFT WING
W-3
LAYOUT

W-2
NOTE: SEE FACE OF
W-9
PACKAGE FOR ACTUAL
W-1 COLORS OF WING
INSIGNIA OR LETTERS
WING RIBS DIHEDRAL GAUGE
 In the kit fuselage were 3/16", the
rest 1/16". 3mm for the fuse and 1mm
for the rest may be adequate.

W-4

W-1
W-3

W-2 W-5
W-2
F-1
W-3 W-9
W-1 R-1
W-5
W-4
F-1
R-2