STITCHERY

reusable
BOWL CAP
Save the environment and look cute doing it! These washable bowl
caps are easy to make and customizable to fit any dish. They also
double as shower caps. Ok, I’m kidding there, but you’ll see. And I
bet you try it on your head. Or your kids head. Or your dogs head…

materials
• Fabric for main part of cap (size needed will vary based on bowl, a fat quarter 18”x20”, should be more than enough for most)
• Fabric for bias binding or premade extra wide (1/2”) double fold bias tape (amount will also vary, more details in pattern)
• 1/4” wide elastic (one length approximately equal to the circumference of your bowl for each cover)

a few notes…
This tutorial includes directions for determining what size to cut your pieces, how
to make bias binding, and how to construct the bowl caps. Please read through
the entire pattern before beginning. If you have any questions, please feel free to
contact me through my website, lillyella.com.

Share your project photos on Instagram & Facebook with #reusablebowlcap!

measuring & cutting

You will begin by cutting one circle from your main fabric for each cap you are
making. To determine what size to cut your circle, you will first measure the diameter
of your dish. This is the measurement straight across the widest part (FIG A).
You will then add 3” total to this measurement and cut your circle.
For example, my bowls measured 7”, 8” and 9”, so I cut my three circles to be 10”,
11” and 12”. This adds a 1.5” overlap all around to hug the bowl. You can adjust this if
you’d like your cap to overlap more or less.

VARIATION: I used quilting cotton for the caps shown here, so they are lightweight
and washable, but another option is to create a cap that is more waterproof and can
FIG. A
be wiped clean by adding iron on vinyl to the back side of your main fabric.

lillyella.com REUSABLE BOWL CAP • 1

making bias binding reusable BOWL CAP
Because these covers are round, you need to use bias binding on the FIG. C
FIG. B
edge. Bias binding is cut on the bias (diagonally) of the fabric grain, which
makes it give and stretch in a different way allowing it to curve easily.

Premade bias tape will work for this project, but since it only
requires a small amount, I prefer to make it myself and showcase
another fun print! If you have never made or used bias binding
before, don’t fear! It’s easy, and I walk you through the steps below.

The length of binding you need will be equivalent to the

circumference of your circle, plus a few extra inches for overlap. ACK,
FIG. D FIG. E
MATH! It’s time for Pi people (though let it be known I prefer donuts).

To determine circumference, you will multiply the diameter of your

cut circle by Pi (3.14). For the 10” circle for my smallest bowl, the
circumference is about 31”. Add 3” to your measurement to account
for overlap and finishing, so that’s 34” for my 10” circle, for example.

I’m using fat quarters to make the binding here, but you can certainly
use smaller pieces depending on what you have.

Lay your fat quarter out flat with the 18” sides running horizontal.
FIG. F
Fold the top right corner down until the left sides are flush (FIG B).
Finger press to make a crease. This line now follows the true bias
of the fabric (FIG C). Open and cut along this line (FIG D). You will
now have a large triangle with the upper right piece you cut off and
will cut your bias strips from this (FIG E).

You will cut your strips 2” wide to make 1/2” finished binding. Cut on
the edge that you just cut in the previous step (FIG F). I cut two strips
for each of my bowls. I only needed a little more than one strip for my
smallest bowl, and two strips was just a few inches longer than what I
needed for my largest bowl. If you start with a smaller piece of fabric,
you can simply piece more strips together to create your length.

Cut the angled ends of your strips to be squared off and piece your
strips together as shown in FIG G. You will stitch diagonally along
the line indicated. Trim off the excess past your seam line leaving
about 1/4”. Press this seam open from the back and then press your FIG. G FIG. H
strip flat from the front.
FIG. I FIG. J
The next step is pressing the binding. A bias tape maker (FIG H)
will be your best friend if you make a lot of bias tape, but it is not
necessary. To create the bias binding without a tool, first press your
strip in half to create a center crease. Open it back up and press
each raw edge into the center so it looks like FIG I. The final step is
to then fold it in half along the center again and press (FIG J).

lillyella.com REUSABLE BOWL CAP • 2

constructing the cover reusable BOWL CAP
Now that your circle is cut and your bias tape is made, its time to put
FIG. K FIG. L
it all together. Open one end of your binding and press about 1/2” in,
wrong sides together, as shown in FIG K, You will now stitch the binding
onto the circle.

Starting with this pressed end, lay your binding right sides together with
your circle fabric, matching up the outer edges and pinning in place as
you go (FIG L). You will see that the bias binding curves easily to follow
the circle. It does not matter where on your circle you start pinning down
the binding. When you get all the way around, overlap your binding about
FIG. M FIG. N
1” (FIG M) and cut the remainder off. Continue pinning through this area.

You are now ready to stitch the binding down. You will stitch inside the GA
P
crease line closest to the edge. Begin your seam a few inches away from
the start of your binding and sew all the way around, through the overlap
and end about 1” from where you began, leaving a small gap (FIG N). This
is where you will insert the elastic.

You will now fold your binding back up and wrap it around the edge of
your piece. Top stitch in place close to the inside edge of the binding, FIG. O FIG. P
beginning and ending in the same places as you did previously leaving
the gap open.

Cut a piece of elastic about the same circumference as your circle.

Attach a safety pin to one end and feed it through the gap in the binding
(FIG O). Work the pin all the way around and back out the same gap. At
this point you will try the cap on your bowl to determine how tight to
pull the elastic. Once you have the correct gather, overlap your elastic
and stitch it together well. I prefer to do this by hand (FIG P), but you
can use the machine if you prefer. Trim the end and tuck the elastic flush
into the binding. The last step is to topstitch the gap closed. You will
need to pull your piece to keep it flat over this area while stitching and
be sure to not catch the elastic in your stitches.

You’re done! Wasn’t that easy? I just love these covers and find them
handy for some many things. I always use old Pyrex and Fire King
bowls that did not have lids, so using these makes me much happier
than using plastic wrap! They also make great gifts. Pick up a cute
bowl (or set) at a thrift shop, make a matching cover and give it as a
housewarming or shower gift.

I hope you enjoy this tutorial! Please share your photos with
#REUSABLEBOWLCAP so I can see all your creations!

~ nicole

Featured fabrics: Little House on the Prairie by Kathy Hall for Andover Fabrics #reusablebowlcap