One-Skein Dragon

I'm always & forever a dragon girl. From Dealing with Dragons (the only reason I know what cherries jubilee is) to
Dragonriders of Pern, spending my formative years playing Pern MU*s and then World of Warcraft, dragons have
always had a way of capturing my heart and mind. I know I'm not alone in that - the enduring popularity of
dragons of all forms is testament to our fascination with these large, proud, inspiring mythical creatures.
I also absolutely love hand-dyed yarn, especially from small independent dyers, and have a habit of collecting single
skeins of each beautiful colorway. And then I find myself with a huge stash of these single skeins that don't really
coordinate with each other, and no cool pattern that will use just one! That's why I decided to make this a "one
skein dragon": all the main color parts (head, body, four limbs, wing boning, eye ridges, scales) come from a single
skein of yarn like Prismatic Fiber & Artistry’s worsted base or Malabrigo’s Rios or Washted lines.
A dragon from this pattern, made as written, measures approximately 7.5” tall and 15” long (not including wings).
In the following pages, you will find a list of materials, a stitch glossary, and a fully-tested pattern with lots of
photos to help you follow along. I used the same hook size and yarn weight throughout, so you should be able to
create this pattern in other yarn weights if desired. Please see the GALLERY at the end of this pattern for
examples of dragons I have made using single skeins of yarn for the main color.
Thank you to my amazing team of testers who thoroughly reviewed this pattern!

© Rebecca Stone 2024. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be reproduced, distributed, resold, altered,
shared, or posted elsewhere. You can (and should!) sell items made using this pattern, and please feel free to share
on social media and tag me!

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 Materials
This pattern is made in a single weight of yarn, so it can easily be adapted for a lighter or chunkier yarn
as you wish. Just be sure to use the right hook to make your stitches nice and tight so no stuffing shows
through. The examples in this pattern are made in worsted yarn, with some variation in thickness.

I recommend using a length of scrap yarn as a stitch marker. See this helpful tutorial by Airali Design.
Remember that the marker will naturally spiral around your work as you go, so don’t mistake it for the
center of the creature!

At least 200yds total of medium or worsted weight yarn in the main (body) color and roughly 50-
80yds in an accent color (used on wing panels, depending on whether you use the wing panel
color for the boning or not).
The amounts below are estimates based on averages of the yarn amounts used by myself and pattern testers. Amounts
will vary based on yarn type, hook size, and tension.
Head: ~18yds
Body: ~75yds
Front Legs (for 2): ~30yds
Back Legs (for 2): ~35yds
Eye Ridges (2): ~5yds
Wing Boning and Support: ~55yds
Wing Panels (A, B, C, D): ~75yds

3.25 or 3.5mm hook, or whatever size is appropriate for your yarn and stitch tension. Note that larger
hook sizes will use more yarn.

Plastic stitch markers for marking specific stitches.

Polyfill stuffing.

Safety eyes (I used 16mm sinker eyes; some testers used 18mm eyes).

Floral stem wire and armature wire:

I prefer to use armature wire (usually 12 gauge) in the body because it is more flexible.
I use 18 gauge Decora floral stem wire (NOT paper-wrapped) in the limbs and through the wings.

Blunt needle for sewing.

Needlefelting needle for securing ends and decorative work.

Optional: 18mm flat round cabochons to insert in feet to keep them flat.

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 Stitch Glossary (US Terminology)
(----) x #: Repeat the stitches inside the parentheses # times. For example: “(1sc, dec) x 3” means to do 1sc, dec,
1sc, dec, 1sc, dec.

3-in-2 inc: Whenever we are increasing in a row with an even number of stitches, we can place the
increase in the “center” of the row by doing 1sc, decreasing from this stitch to the next stitch, and
placing another sc in that stitch. This results in 3sc where there were previously only 2sc.

bb: “Baby bobble.” A dc2tog in the same stitch. 1) Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop,
yarn over and pull through just two loops and leaving two loops on your hook. 2) Yarn over again, insert hook
into SAME stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through just two loops again. Yarn over, pull through all
remaining loops on hook (3).

Bobble: 1) Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through two loops on the
hook. 2) Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through two loops
on the hook. 3) Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through two
loops on the hook, then yarn over and pull through all four loops.

BLO: Back loop only. Stitches to be completed BLO are enclosed in brackets [].

ch: Chain stitch.

dc: Double crochet (US).

dc2tog: Double crochet two together, or a double crochet decrease.

dec: A (visible) single crochet decrease.

FLO: Front loop only. Stitches to be completed FLO are enclosed in brackets [].

hdc: Half-double crochet.

hdc dec: HDC decrease. Yarn over, insert into next stitch, yarn over, pull up, yarn over and pull through first two
loops on hook. Yarn over, insert into next stitch, yarn over, pull up, yarn over, and pull through all four loops.

hdc inc: HDC increase (two HDC in the same stitch).

htc: Half-triple or half-treble crochet. Yarn over twice, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, pull through two
loops on hook, yarn over again, pull through remaining three loops on hook.

inc: Put two stitches into the next stitch. If just “inc,” assume two sc.

MR: Magic ring.

sc: Single crochet.

Slst: Slip stitch.

tc: Triple crochet.

tc2tog: Triple crochet two together, also known as a triple crochet decrease.

Turn: Turn your work from one side to the other so that you are working from the other side of the crochet fabric.

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BODY
Row Instructions [Total] Notes
1 5sc in MR [5]

2 5sc [5] Rows 2-5: 4 rounds of 5sc

3 5sc [5]
4 5sc [5]
5 5sc [5]
6 inc, 4sc [6]
7 6sc [6] Rows 7-11: 5 rounds of 6sc
8 6sc [6]
9 6sc [6]
10 6sc [6]
11 6sc [6]
12 inc, 5sc [7]
13 7sc [7] Rows 13-17: 5 rounds of 7sc
14 7sc [7]
15 7sc [7]
16 7sc [7]
17 7sc [7]
18 inc, 6sc [8]
19 8sc [8] Rows 19-25: 7 rounds of 8sc
20 8sc [8]
21 8sc [8]
22 8sc [8]
23 8sc [8]
24 8sc [8]
25 8sc [8]
26 (3sc, inc) x 2 [10]
27 10sc [10] Rows 27-29: 3 rounds of 10sc
28 10sc [10]
29 10sc [10]
30 (4sc, inc) x 2 [12]

4
31 12sc [12] Rows 31-33: 3 rounds of 12sc
32 12sc [12]
33 12sc [12]
34 (inc, 5sc) x 2 [14]
35 14sc [14]
36 14sc [14]
37 (inc, 6sc) x 2 [16]
38 16sc [16]
39 16sc [16]
40 (inc, 7sc) x 2 [18]
41 18sc [18]
42 (inc, 5sc) x 3 [21]
43 21sc [21]
44 (inc, 6sc) x 3 [24]
45 24sc [24]
46 (inc, 5sc) x 4 [28]

Around here, take approx. 18” of armature wire and fold

one end over, wrapping it in duct tape to secure it.

Insert the wire into the tail all the way to the end and start
to stuff the tail medium-firm without distoring it. You can

5
 use very small amounts of stuffing at the end of the tail
and start stuffing more firmly as it widens. I use a wooden
chopstick to help insert the stuffing.

Continue stuffing firmly (but without distorting or creating

gaps) as you go.

47 28sc [28]
48 (inc, 6sc) x 4 [32]
49 32sc [32] Rows 49-53: 5 rounds of 32sc
50 32sc [32]
51 32sc [32]
52 32sc [32]
53 32sc [32]
54 (6sc, dec) x 4 [28]

55 28sc [28]
56 8sc, dec, dec, 16sc [26]
57 26sc [26]
58 26sc [26]
59 9sc, inc, 16sc [27] The increases in this and the following few rows are to
deepen the chest.
60 10sc, inc, 16sc [28]
61 11sc, inc, 16sc [29]
62 11sc, inc, 17sc [30]

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63 8sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 14sc [32]

64 32sc [32] In the next row, we will start doing chained short rows to
create the front of the chest and then close up to the neck.

65 a. 16sc, marking the 11th sc, [32] Please see the photos to guide you through this short
then 7ch. row technique. There is also a video [CLICK]
b. Starting in the marked showing a different pattern but the same technique.
stitch, 7sc (note that the last
sc will step down to the
row below; this will be true
for all subrows), 9ch.
c. Starting in the stitch before
sub-row b, 9sc, 11ch.
d. Starting in the stitch
before sub-row c, 11sc, 13ch.
e. Starting in the stitch before
sub-row d, 13sc, 15ch.
f. Starting in the stitch before
sub-row e, 15sc, 17ch.
g. Starting in the stitch before
sub-row f, 17sc, then
another 10sc to finish the
round.

7
 This image shows the green stitch marker in the 11th This image shows row 65b with 6 of the 7 stitches
stitch and the 7ch. From here, place the hook into the made. The 7th sc is placed in the stitch from round 64,
marked stitch to make the first stitch of 65b. indicated by my thumb. It “steps down” from the
current row.

This image shows 65b with 7sc and 9ch. From here, First sc of 65c.
insert your hook into the stitch before this row,
indicated by the pointing arrow, to begin 65c.

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 Finished row 65c, showing 9sc and 11ch. Arrow shows placement of first sc of 65d.

Image shows the inside of the work, with the chains End of round 65 subrows. Continue to round 66.
pressed neatly against the fabric so they don’t interfere
with stuffing.

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66 a. 16sc, marking the 11th sc, [33] This section is worked the same way as row 65 and its
then 7ch. subrows. If you did that one, you can do this one!
b. Starting in the marked
stitch, 7sc (note that the last
sc will step down to the
row below), 9ch.
c. Starting in the stitch before
sub-row b, 9sc, 11ch.
d. Starting in the stitch
before sub-row c, 11sc,
13ch.
e. Starting in the stitch before
sub-row d, 13sc, then 8sc,
inc, 3sc.

67 6sc, dec, 13sc, dec, 7sc, inc, [32] The first decrease bridges the last full round and the last
2sc short row. The 13sc go across the front of the chest, and
the inc is at the back of the neck (to start turning it
upwards).

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68 10sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 12sc, inc, [31]
3sc
69 4sc, dec, 11sc, dec, 12sc [29]
70 4sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 11sc [27]
71 3sc, dec, 9sc, dec, 11sc [25]
72 (4sc, dec) x 3, 3sc, inc, 3sc [23]
73 3sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 6sc, inc, 3sc [22]

Unstuffed chest.

Stuffed chest.

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74 a. 13sc, marking the 2nd [22] This single short row helps to bring the chest-side of the
stitch, 12ch neck more level with the back-side of the neck.
b. Starting in the marked
stitch, 12sc then
another 9sc to finish
the round.

75 5sc, dec, dec, 13sc [20]

76 5sc, dec, dec, 11sc [18]
77 18sc [18]
78 3sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 6sc, inc, 2sc [17]
79 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 6sc, inc, 2sc [16]
80 a. 16sc, marking the 10th [16] These short rows are on the opposite side of the previous
stitch, 6ch, short rows because they are curving the neck so that it can
b. Starting in the marked attach to the back of the head.
stitch, 8sc (the last sc
goes past the round
marker), 10ch,
c. Starting in the stitch
before the previous
subrow, 10sc, 12ch,
d. Starting in the stitch
before the previous
subrow, 12sc. This is
the new end of your
round, move your
round marker thread
here.

Image shows round 80 with 16sc

(green stitch marker in 10th sc) and 6ch.

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81 13sc, 1ch and TURN (leaving [13] We are about to make a short “neck flap” that will stretch
3 stitches unworked) up over the head. It should be roughly centered at the back
of the neck. If not, you can adjust as necessary.

82 6sc, 1ch and turn [6] Rows 82-84: 3 rows (not rounds) of 6sc
83 6sc, 1ch and turn [6]
84 6sc, 1ch and turn [6]
85 6sc, fasten off. [6] Leave an 12” tail for sewing. Stuff the rest of the neck. If
you used a thread to mark your rounds, pull gently from
the end at the neck and massage your dragon body back
into shape.

Trim remaining neck wire to around 1” long. It will be

inserted into the back of the head so that you can pose
your dragon.

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HEAD
Row Instructions [Total] Notes
1 5ch, turn, 4sc, 1ch and turn [4]
2 4sc, 1ch and turn [4]
3 4sc, 3ch, 1sc into same stitch as [15]
last sc, turning the piece to go
down the side.
1sc down the side of the piece,
inc in corner (original chain),
2sc along the bottom,
inc in corner,
2sc up side, 3ch, sc into the top
of the same stitch where you
placed the previous sc (before
your 3ch). It will be the first sc
of the top row (see photos). Above image shows row 3 with 4sc and 3ch.

End of round, move your row

marking thread here and
continue in spiral. The next
round begins in this same sc.

After the 3ch, turn and make 1sc into the side of the
same stitch you just worked, then an additional 1sc in
the side.

inc into the corner.

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 2sc along the bottom and inc into the corner.

2sc up the side and 3ch.

Sc into the top of the same stitch where you placed the
previous sc (before your 3ch). It will be the first sc of
the top row.

You can use your hook to pull the ch3 nostrils up and
out a little bit to make them more obvious. The rest of
the head will continue in spiral rounds. Use a length of
yarn to mark the beginning of your rounds.

15
4 Starting in the same stitch as [15]
your last sc in round 3, 4sc,
skip the ch3, 10sc, skip the ch3,
1sc

Image shows the black yarn marking the beginning of

round 4 and the first 4sc. Note that the first sc of this
round is placed in the same stitch as the last sc of the
previous round.

5 15sc [15]
6 1sc, (inc) x 3, 11sc [18]
7 18sc [18]
8 2sc, (inc) x 3, 13sc [21]
9 2sc, (1sc, inc) x 3, 13sc [24]

10 (3sc, inc) x 6 [30]

11 30sc [30] Rounds 11-14: 4 rounds of 30sc
12 30sc [30]
13 30sc [30]
14 30sc [30]
15 (3sc, dec) x 6 [24]
16 2sc, (1sc, dec, 1sc) x 3, 10sc [21] Count back to the 9th and 10th row from the nostrils
(equates to around row 12-13 of the pattern). Find the
center point, then insert 16mm safety eyes in
approximately the 6th or 7th stitch space on either side,
approximately 11 stitch spaces in between the posts.

16
17
 Factors like yarn weight, hook size, tension, and
personal preference can influence the ideal placement
of the eyes – go with what looks right to you!

Warning: Your dragon is going to look super derpy at

this stage. Don’t worry! Eye ridges will help make those
eyes less googly.
17 (5sc, dec) x 3 [18] Start stuffing the head, making sure to retain the
squared shape of the nose and the shaping of the
snout and forehead. I find it helps to place the nose
against the heel of my palm and insert the stuffing with
my other hand, poking it down into the nose, which is
kept flat against my palm.

Make sure to leave room around the posts and backs of

your safety eyes so that the stuffing doesn’t make the
eyes bulge out – if necessary, you can melt the posts of
your safety eyes to flatten them against the backs and
create more space.

I use a chopstick to poke stuffing into small spaces, like

to stuff the cheeks and forehead without making the
eyes bulge.

18
18 (1sc, dec) x 6 [12]
19 (dec) x 6, fasten off with a short [6] Finish stuffing through the remaining opening. Leave
tail. the gap open so that you can insert the end of the body
wire when you attach the head (in Assembly section).

Full assembly instructions will follow after the crochet

steps for the main body of the dragon, but below you
can see how the finished head attaches to the body
(pinned in place in my photo). The top of the neck flap
should be pulled up and pinned to around the 12th row
of the head counting from the nostril row.

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STRAIGHT FRONT LEG (MAKE 1 LEFT, 1 RIGHT)
Row Instructions [Total] Notes
1 6sc in MR [6]
2 (inc) x 6 [12]
3 2sc, (bobble, 1sc) x 4, 2sc [12] Bobble: 1) Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over
and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through two loops
on the hook. 2) Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch,
yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through
two loops on the hook. 3) Yarn over, insert hook into
same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over,
pull through two loops on the hook, then yarn over
and pull through all four loops.

When you first make your bobble stitches, they may be

inside out, as shown above.

You will need to poke them through to the other side

of your work to continue right-side out. I use a wooden
chopstick.

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 These bobble stitches are now on the correct side of
the work and I can continue working

4 2sc, 8hdc, 2sc [12]

5 2sc, 2hdc, hdc dec, hdc dec, [10]
2hdc, 2sc
6 10sc [10] OPTIONAL: Put a 18mm flat round cabochon in the
foot to keep it flat. Add a tiny bit of stuffing to shape
the foot but don’t start stuffing up the leg yet if you
intend to use wire.

7 RIGHT: 1sc, bobble, 2sc, dec, [9] LEFT FOOT, NOTE: The sc that will “close” your
4sc bobble will be the first sc of the next round.
LEFT: 5sc, dec, 2sc, bobble

21
 The right and left feet are identical except for the
placement of the “thumb” bobble. When you assemble
your dragon, the side of the leg with the thumb on it
will be the same side that attaches to the body (the
inner side).
8 9sc [9]
9 Inc, 8sc [10]
10 10sc [10]
11 1sc, inc, 4sc, dec, 2sc [10]
12 2sc, 3-in-2 inc, 6sc [11] 3-in-2 inc: Whenever we are increasing in a row with
an even number of stitches, we can place the increase
in the “center” of the row by doing 1sc, decreasing
from this stitch to the next stitch, and placing another
sc in that stitch. This results in 3sc where there were
previously only 2sc.

13 3sc, inc, inc, 6sc [13]

14 11sc, inc, 1sc [14]
15 4sc, dec, 8sc [13]
16 4sc, dec, 5sc, inc, 1sc [13]
17 4sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 2sc [15]
18 5sc, inc, 9sc [16]
19 5sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 1sc [18]
20 18sc [18] Rounds 20-23: 4 rounds of 18sc (but see notes).
21 18sc [18] Around here, insert wire into the leg and bend it out to
the side that will attach to the body (the side with the
thumb – make sure you have a RIGHT and LEFT leg).
RIGHT LEG: Poke wire out near stitches 11-12 of
this row.
LEFT LEG: Poke wire out near stitches 2-3 of this
row.
Trim the protruding wire to about ¾”.

22
 Stuff the lower leg firmly around the wire. Stuff more
lightly towards the top shoulder area so that it will
flatten out when you sew it on to the body.
22 18sc [18]
23 18sc [18]
24 (1sc, dec) x 6 [12]
25 (dec) x 6 [6] Fasten off and leave an 18” yarn tail for sewing the leg
to the body. (I do not close the leg fully at this point; it
gets sewn closed when attached).

See photo next page.

23
RIGHT and LEFT front legs.

24
BACK LEG (MAKE 2)
Row Instructions [Total] Notes
1 6sc in MR [6] Unlike the front legs, the back legs are crocheted in the
same way (no right or left), but make sure when you get
to the wire section that you poke the wire to the right
or left as directed.
2 (inc) x 6 [12]
3 2sc, (bobble, 1sc) x 4, 2sc [12] Bobble: 1) Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over
and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through two loops
on the hook. 2) Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch,
yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through
two loops on the hook. 3) Yarn over, insert hook into
same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over,
pull through two loops on the hook, then yarn over
and pull through all four loops.

When you first make your bobble stitches, they will

likely be inside out, as shown above.

You will need to poke them through to the other side

of your work to continue right-side out.

25
 These bobble stitches are now on the correct side of
the work and I can continue.
4 2sc, 8hdc, 2sc [12]
5 Inc, 1sc, 2hdc, hdc dec, hdc dec, [12]
2hdc, 1sc, inc
6 Inc, 4sc, dec, 5sc [12] OPTIONAL: Put an 18mm flat round cabochon in
the foot to keep it flat. Add a tiny bit of stuffing to
shape the foot but don’t start stuffing up the leg yet if
you intend to use wire.

7 1sc, inc, 4sc, dec, 4sc [12]

8 1sc, inc, 5sc, dec, 3sc [12]
9 2sc, inc, inc, 8sc [14]
10 3sc, bobble, 5sc, dec, dec, 1sc [12] Remember to poke your bobble through to the outside
of your work.

26
11 3sc, dec, 5sc, inc, 1sc [12] The dec should be directly above the bobble stitch
from row 10, and the inc should be at the front center.
12 2sc, dec, 5sc, inc, 2sc [12]
13 2sc, dec, 5sc, inc, 2sc [12]
14 2sc, dec, 5sc, inc, 2sc [12]
15 1sc, 3slst, 1sc, 6hdc, 1sc [12] NOTE: In this and the following rows, make your slsts
nice and tight. This will help to shape the crease behind
the dragon’s knee/haunch. It should create a sharp
bend on the back side of the leg, and the hdcs and
increases create the soft curve on the front side.
16 1sc, 3sc OVER the slsts, 2sc, [14] Crocheting OVER the slst means that your hook will
2hdc, hdc inc, hdc inc, 2hdc actually go into the same sc that the slst went into, and
the sc you make will wrap around both.
17 1sc, 4slst, 1sc, 3hdc, hdc inc, hdc [16]
inc, 3hdc
18 1sc, 4sc OVER the slsts, 1sc, [19]
2hdc, (1hdc, hdc inc) x 3, 2hdc

Photo shows the back of the leg with 4sc OVER the
previous round’s 4slst. Directly below you can see the
3sc OVER the previous round’s 3slst.
19 19sc [19]

27
20 4sc, inc, 9sc, inc, 4sc [21]

21 21sc [21] Rounds 21-24: Four rounds of 21sc, but see notes.
22 21sc [21]
23 21sc [21] Insert approximately 8” of wire into the leg (fold the
end so it doesn’t poke through your work). You can
bend the wire slightly to match the angles of the leg. At
the top, bend the wire out to the side that will attach to
the body (make sure you have one RIGHT and one
LEFT – they are crocheted identically but will have
wire poking out on opposite sides).
RIGHT LEG: Poke wire out near stitches 10-11 of
this row.
LEFT LEG: Poke wire out near stitch 21 of this row
(mine is between stitch 21 and the first stitch of row
24).
Trim the protruding wire to about ¾”.

28
 Picture shows RIGHT leg, stuffed, with wire
protruding.

Stuff the lower leg firmly around the wire. Stuff lightly
towards the top area so that it will flatten out when you
sew it on to the body.
24 21sc [21]
25 (5sc, dec) x 3 [18]
26 (1sc, dec) x 6 [12]
27 (dec) x 6 [6] Fasten off and leave an 18” yarn tail for sewing the leg
to the body. (I do not close the leg fully at this point; it
gets sewn closed when attached).

EYE RIDGE (MAKE 2)

Row Instructions [Total] Notes
1 Starting with a tail long enough [7]
to sew in, ch8, turn, sl st, sc,
3hdc, sc, slst, 1ch and turn

29
2 FLO [7slst]. Fasten off with [7]
tail long enough to weave in.

The row with the 7slst goes closest to the eye. See
next section for assembly instructions.

30
 BODY ASSEMBLY
The assembly of your dragon contributes just as much – maybe more – to the final appearance as your
actual crochet stitches. I’ve tried to provide very clear instructions and a lot of pictures to help you sew your dragon
together in a realistic pose. Remember to pin, pin, pin before sewing to make sure you are happy with the placement
of each piece and (particularly important) that your dragon stands stable on all four feet.

Begin by inserting the neck wire into the back of the Don’t worry if it looks a little flat at the back of the
head and pinning the neck flap to the back of the head. head – you can insert a little bit more stuffing to round it
The neck flap should be pinned about 12 rows back from out after you have sewn the sides of the neck flap in
the row with the nostrils (the top of the muzzle). place before you sew the final seam across the top of
the head.

Start sewing using the yarn tail of the neck flap, which You don’t need to sew directly from the head under the
should be at the top left corner of the flap. Begin by neck – I weave my needle in between the head and neck
anchoring this corner in place, then continue by placing a few times to secure it, then pop out the opposite side.
small, tight, even stitches down the side of the flap and The stuffing won’t come out of this gap.
around the dragon’s jawline.

31
Making small, tight stitches will make them nearly Cross over underneath the jawline and work up the
invisible along the seam – notice how you can barely see other side of the neck flap, continuing to grab single
my stitches down the side of the neck flap and around stitches from the neck flap and jawline to pull them
the cheek/jaw area here. together.

At this point, before closing this final seam across the Sew the top of the neck flap to the row above it,
top of the head, you can use a chopstick to poke a few inserting your needle neatly into each stitch to hide it.
more small wisps of stuffing into the neck flap to round
it out a bit more.

32
Note how the sewing stitches disappear into the crochet I use a felting needle to felt my ends into the seams and
work. smooth out any bumps (like the corners of the neck
flap).

Next, pin your eye ridges in place. Pay attention to the I recommend pinning all four limbs in place first to
placement – it makes a lot of difference for your make sure that your dragon is balanced evenly on all
dragon’s expression! I sew the eye ridges on by using the four feet, then sewing each one on while leaving the
yarn tail to first anchor each end point, then sew across others pinned in place so you don’t get off track. The
the top of the ridge into the head. (If you are worried dots mark the approximate wire insertion point for the
about keeping your chosen expression while sewing the front and back legs, assuming your wire is poking out
eye in place, you can anchor each end with the yarn tail between the stitches suggested in the leg instructions.
and then glue the eye ridge exactly where you want it.) The following photos will show you things I check
before starting to sew.

33
Here is roughly what your pinned limbs should look This image shows that the front legs are straight and
like. Notice the dragon is balanced evenly on all four are even at the shoulders. Notice that the shoulders are
feet and there is a very slight downward slope to the stuffed just lightly so they can be flattened out like
back. this.

My leg is a little bit crooked here – I can fix that later This ¾ angle shows the legs pinned in the proper
– but you can see in the picture that my dragon’s hips position with all four feet evenly on the ground.
are also level with each other.

34
It’s really important to make small stitches around the Make sure you are pulling those stitches tight (but
very edge of the leg and hug it in nice and tight against obviously not puckering the fabric), especially when
the body. you work around the “armpit” area.

Sewing up the back of the front leg. Beginning at the top of the rear leg.

Sewing around the underside of the rear leg, hugging Sewing up the back side of the rear leg.
the hip and leg in tight.

35
Your dragon should look something like this!

36
 WINGS
I recommend making the wings before the ornamentation to make sure you have enough of your main color yarn,
BUT you should attach most of your ornamentation before attaching the wings, because they are awkward to work
around – for example, you’ll definitely want to sew any back spikes in place before you sew the wings on.

WING PANEL A (ONE PER WING; MAKE 2)

Row Instructions [Total] Notes
1 2ch, starting in 2nd chain from [1]
hook, 1sc, 1ch and turn
2 1sc, 1ch and turn [1]
3 1sc, 1ch and turn [1]
4 Inc, 1ch and turn [2]
5 2sc, 1ch and turn [2]
6 3-in-2 inc, 1ch and turn [3]
7 3sc, 1ch and turn [3]
8 3sc, 1ch and turn [3]
9 1sc, inc, 1sc, 1ch and turn [4]
10 4sc, 1ch and turn [4]
11 4sc, 1ch and turn [4]
12 4sc, 1ch and turn [4]
13 1sc, 3-in-2 inc, 1sc, 1ch and turn [5]
14 5sc, 1ch and turn [5]
15 5sc, 1ch and turn [5]
16 2sc, inc, 2sc, 1ch and turn [6]
17 6sc, 1ch and turn [6]
18 6sc, 1ch and turn [6]

37
19 2sc, 3-in-2 inc, 2sc, 1ch and turn [7]

20 7sc, 1ch and turn [7]

21 7sc, 1ch and turn [7]
22 3sc, inc, 3sc, 1ch and turn [8]
23 8sc, 1ch and turn [8]
24 8sc, 1ch and turn [8]
25 3sc, 3-in-2 inc, 3sc, 1ch and turn [9]
26 5sc (leaving 4sc unworked), 1ch [5]
and turn

27 Dec, 3sc, 1ch and turn [4]

28 4sc, 1ch and turn [4]
29 Dec, 2sc, 1ch and turn [3]

30 3sc, 1ch and turn [3]

31 Dec, 1sc, 1ch and turn [2]
32 2sc, 1ch and turn [2]

38
33 Dec, 2ch and turn [1]

34 Starting in the 2nd chain from the [13]

hook, slst, 1sc, 7sc down the
slope, 4sc into remaining stitches
from row 26, 1ch and turn

35 2sc, 1ch and turn [2]

36 Dec, 2ch and turn [1]

39
37 Starting in the 2nd chain from the [5]
hook, slst, 1sc, 1sc down the
slope, 1sc, slst and fasten off.
Weave in the tail along the
bottom of the wing to hide it.

At this point, I put different color stitch markers on the

top and bottom edge of my panel and write this down
(e.g. “Panel A, pink top, green bottom”) before setting
the piece aside. This helps me keep track of which
piece is which and to match the correct sides. I will
then use the same stitch marker color from the bottom
of Panel A on the top of Panel B, so when I go to
seam them together, I can check the colors and be sure
I’m joining the correct edges.

WING PANEL B (ONE PER WING; MAKE 2)

Row Instructions [Total] Notes
1 2ch, starting in 2 chain from
nd
[1]
hook, 1sc, 1ch and turn
2 1sc, 1ch and turn [1]
3 1sc, 1ch and turn [1]
4 Inc, 1ch and turn [2]
5 2sc, 1ch and turn [2]
6 2sc, 1ch and turn [2]
7 3-in-2 inc, 1ch and turn [3]
8 3sc, 1ch and turn [3]
9 3sc, 1ch and turn [3]
10 1sc, inc, 1sc, 1ch and turn [4]
11 4sc, 1ch and turn [4]
12 4sc, 1ch and turn [4]
13 4sc, 1ch and turn [4]
14 1sc, 3-in-2 inc, 1sc, 1ch and turn [5]
15 5sc, 1ch and turn [5]
16 5sc, 1ch and turn [5]
17 5sc, 1ch and turn [5]

40
18 2sc, inc, 2sc, 1ch and turn [6]
19 6sc, 1ch and turn [6]
20 6sc, 1ch and turn [6]
21 2sc, 3-in-2 inc, 2sc, 1ch and turn [7]
22 7sc, 1ch and turn [7]
23 3sc, inc, 3sc, 1ch and turn [8]
24 8sc, 1ch and turn [8]
25 8sc, 1ch and turn [8]
26 3sc, 3-in-2 inc, 3sc, 1ch and turn [9]
27 3sc (leaving 6sc unworked), 1ch [3]
and turn

28 Dec, 1sc, 1ch and turn [2]

29 2sc, 1ch and turn [2]
30 Dec, 2ch and turn [1]

31 Starting in the 2nd chain from the [11]

hook, slst, 1sc, 3sc down slope,
6sc in remaining stitches from
row 26, 1ch and turn

32 3sc, 1ch and turn [3]

33 Dec, 1sc, 1ch and turn [2]
41
34 2sc, 1ch and turn [2]
35 Dec, 2ch and turn [1]
36 Starting in the 2nd chain from the [7]
hook, slst, 1sc, 3sc down slope,
1sc, slst and fasten off. Weave in
tail.

Note that I have used a green stitch marker on the top

because it matches the green stitch marker on the
bottom of Panel A. I then used a blue stitch marker on
the bottom (longer) point.

WING PANEL C (ONE PER WING; MAKE 2)

Row Instructions [Total] Notes
1 2ch, starting in 2nd chain from [1]
hook, 1sc, 1ch and turn
2 1sc, 1ch and turn [1]
3 Inc, 1ch and turn [2]
4 2sc, 1ch and turn [2]
5 2sc, 1ch and turn [2]
6 3-in-2 inc, 1ch and turn [3]
7 1sc, inc, 1sc, 1ch and turn [4]
8 4sc, 1ch and turn [4]
9 1sc, 3-in-2 inc, 1sc, 1ch and turn [5]
10 5sc, 1ch and turn [5]
11 2sc, inc, 2sc, 1ch and turn [6]
12 6sc, 1ch and turn [6]
13 2sc, 3-in-2 inc, 2sc, 1ch and turn [7]
14 7sc, 1ch and turn [7]
15 3sc, inc, 3sc, 1ch and turn [8]
16 3sc, 3-in-2 inc, 3sc, 1ch and turn [9]
17 9sc, 1ch and turn [9]
18 3sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 3sc, 1ch and [11]
turn
19 11sc, 1ch and turn [11]
20 11sc, 1ch and turn [11]

42
21 6sc (leaving 5sc unworked), 1ch [6]
and turn

22 Dec, 4sc, 1ch and turn [5]

23 5sc, 1ch and turn [5]
24 Dec, 3sc, 1ch and turn [4]
25 4sc, 1ch and turn [4]
26 Dec, 2sc, 1ch and turn [3]
27 1sc, dec, 1ch and turn [2]
28 Dec, 2ch and turn [1]
29 Starting in the 2nd chain from the [14]
hook, slst, 1sc, 7sc down slope,
4sc, hdc. Fasten off and weave
in tail.

Once again, I have matched the stitch marker color for

the top point of Panel C to the marker at the bottom
point of Panel B.

WING PANEL D (ONE PER WING; MAKE 2)

Row Instructions [Total] Notes
1 12ch, staring in 2 chain from
nd
[11]
the hook, 11sc, 1ch and turn
2 11sc, 1ch and turn [11]
3 5sc, inc, 5sc, 1ch and turn [12]
4 12sc, 1ch and turn [12] Rows 4-9: 6 rows of 12sc
5 12sc, 1ch and turn [12]
6 12sc, 1ch and turn [12]
7 12sc, 1ch and turn [12]
8 12sc, 1ch and turn [12]
9 12sc, 1ch and turn [12]
10 Hdc, 10sc, hdc, 1ch and turn [12]

43
11 Hdc, 10sc, hdc, 1ch and turn [12]
12 Hdc, 10sc, hdc, 1ch and turn [12]
13 5sc, 1ch and turn [5]
14 Dec, 3sc, 1ch and turn [4]
15 2sc, dec, 1ch and turn [3]
16 Dec, 1sc, 1ch and turn [2]
17 Dec, 1ch and turn [1]
18 1sc, 1ch and turn [1]
19 1sc, 6sc down the slope, 6sc, [14]
1hdc. Fasten off with a tail long
enough to weave in.

44
 WING ASSEMBLY: JOINING PANELS

Set out your wing panels as shown in the diagram.

Take Panel A and Panel B and align the bottom edge of
A with the top edge of B. Starting at the narrow end,
attach your main color yarn (the body color) and sc the
two panels together (insert your hook through both
pieces to make each sc down the side). The exact count
doesn’t matter, but as a guide, for me it’s about 30sc plus
2sc more in Panel B only to get to the tip.
(TIP: Short on yarn? You can join the wing panels using
the same color as the panels, not your main color. It will
still look great!)

Picture shows the end of Panel A and remaining ~2sc in

Panel B.

45
When you get to the end, 3ch. Starting in the 2nd chain
from your hook, slst, sc, sc into the ~2 extra scs you
made in one panel only, and then sc up the back of the
seam you just made (see picture). This will create wing
boning on both the front and back of the wing. When
you get back to the top point of the wing, slst into the
top. Don’t fasten off – go to the next step.

Above picture shows the slst and sc into the chain and
then two additional sc.

Picture shows the backside of the scs that initially joined

the panels. Insert your hook under each one to sc back
to the center point.

When you reach the top, slst back into the very first sc
you made to join panels A and B.

46
Now take Panel C, align the top edge with the remaining
edge of Panel B, and do the same thing: sc down the
side to join the two pieces together. For me, it’s about
29sc into both wing panels and then 3sc into Panel B
alone to get to the end – but again, doesn’t really matter
as long as it looks good to you!
When you get to the end, 3ch. Starting in the 2nd chain
from your hook, slst, sc, sc into any extra scs you made
in one panel only, and then sc up the back of the seam
you just made. When you get back to the top point of
the wing, slst into the top.

47
Pick up Panel D. This piece does not attach at the top
point of the wing. Instead, sc from the top point down
the remaining side of Panel C for about 4sc, then start to
sc through both Panel C and Panel D to join them as
shown below, about 18sc:

48
When you get to the end, 3ch. Starting in the 2nd chain
from your hook, slst, sc, and then sc up the back of the
seam you just made. When you get back to the top point
of the wing, slst into the top and do not fasten off,
continue to the wing support.

Above picture: Working into the initial 4sc of this seam.

49
 WING ASSEMBLY: WING SUPPORT

1 Starting from the top point of the

wing, 1ch and hdc all the way along
the top edge of Panel D (toward
the part of the wing that will attach
to the body), 1ch and turn.

TIP: Running short on yarn? Rows 1 and 2 of the wing support can
be done in your wing panel color, saving your main color for the last
two rows only. You are going to fold this support section over to
wrap around the wing wire, so rows 3 and 4 will be visible from the
front.
2 hdc back to the top point, then hdc
all the way to the outside wing tip,
3ch and turn.

3 Starting in the 2nd chain from the

hook, slst, 1sc, hdc all the way
across the wing, 1ch and turn

50
4 hdc back across the entire wing
until two stitches before the tip,
then 1sc, slst at tip. Leave a long
enough yarn tail to sew back across
the wing and then to the body.

51
Set out your two wings with one pointing left and one pointing right. On each wing, you will place the wires along
the top “wing support” section, fold it over towards yourself, and sew along the bottom to trap the wire inside.

First, tape the ends of your wire together (I use floral tape because it is low-profile and flexible) and lay the wire
along the top of the wing, bending it to match the angles.

Fold the top of the wing support toward you and pin it in place, forming an envelope around the wire. Using the
yarn tail, sew small stitches along the length of the wing.

52
Trim the remaining wires to about 1” long and pull them apart slightly – we will insert them into slightly different
places on the dragon’s shoulder, which will give them stability.
Set the wings aside for now and move on to any ornamentation you want to make with your remaining yarn (or an
accent color). You should make and attach any desired ornamentation before attaching the wings, because
they can be very awkward to work around!

53
 ORNAMENTATION
HEADKNOBS (MAKE 2)
Instructions [Total] Notes
6ch, in the 2nd chain from the [5] Big bobble:
hook, big bobble, slst, slst, bb, 1) Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a
slst and fasten off. loop. Yarn over, pull through two loops on the hook.
2) Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull
up a loop. Yarn over, pull through two loops on the hook.
3) Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull
up a loop. Yarn over, pull through two loops on the hook.
4) Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull
up a loop. Yarn over, pull through two loops on the hook.,
then yarn over and pull through all five loops.

Bb: “Baby bobble.” 1) Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn
over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through just two loops
and leaving two loops on your hook. 2) Yarn over again, insert
hook into SAME stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull
through just two loops again. Yarn over, pull through all
remaining loops on hook (3).

Don’t forget to poke your bobbles through to the correct side

of your work.

The other side will have the bottom loops of the bobble
stitches, which create a little hole. When you sew the
headknobs to the head, you can twist your piece slightly to put
this gap on the underside and hide it. You can also pull your
stitches in the middle of the two knobs tighter to emphasize
their shape.

54
NECK SPIKES
Row Instructions [Total] Notes
3ch, starting in the second [2] This spike strip is highly customizable. As written, this strip
chain from the hook, slst, of spiky scales runs from the forehead to just past the base of
1sc. 1ch and turn. the neck, but you can endlessly repeat any of the individual
scale “spikes” to make the strip longer or to vary the pattern
of different heights of spikes. Play around with it and make it
your own!

2 BLO [1sc], 2ch and turn [1]

55
3 BLO [slst, sc], 1ch and [2] Repeat row 2-3 for small spikes.
turn

4 BLO [1sc], 3ch and turn [1]

5 BLO [slst, 2sc], 1ch and [3] Repeat row 4-5 for medium spikes.
turn
6 BLO [sc], 3ch and turn [1]
7 BLO [slst, 2sc], 1ch and [3]
turn
8 BLO [1sc], 4ch and turn [1]
9 BLO [slst, 3sc], 1ch and [4] Repeat row 8-9 for large spikes.
turn
10 BLO [1sc], 4ch and turn [1]
11 BLO [slst, 3sc], 1ch and [4]
turn

12 BLO [sc], 3ch and turn [1]

56
13 BLO [slst, 2sc], 1ch and [3]
turn
14 BLO [sc], 3ch and turn [1]
15 BLO [slst, 2sc], 1ch and [3]
turn
16 BLO [1sc], 2ch and turn [1]
17 BLO [slst, sc], 1ch and [2]
turn
18 BLO [1sc], 2ch and turn [1]
19 BLO [slst, sc], 1ch and [2]
turn
20 BLO [1sc], 2ch and turn [1]
21 BLO [slst, sc], 1ch and [2]
turn
22 BLO [sc], 1ch and turn [1]
23 BLO [sc], 1ch and turn [1]
24 BLO [sc], 1ch and turn [1]
25 1ch, fasten off. Pin to
determine placement and
then sew on as desired.

As mentioned above, I encourage you to experiment with this

piece by making it longer, shorter, or adding more than one to
your dragon! (Note: This spike strip as written can be done in the
same skein as the rest of the body; making it longer or making more
than one may require more yarn.)

57
HORNS
Round Instructions [Total] Notes
1 4s in MR, continue in a spiral [4]
2 4sc [4]
3 Inc, 3sc [5] Fasten off here for a short horn.

4 2sc, 2hdc, 1sc [5]

5 2sc, inc, 2sc [6] Fasten off here for a medium horn.

6 3sc, 3hdc [6]

7 3sc, 3hdc, slst into next stitch and [6]
fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

58
MORNING STAR TAIL
Row Instructions [Total] Notes
1 6sc in MR. Continue in a spiral. [6] This tail option uses screw-together conical studs
typically used by leatherworkers. You can find them by
searching the internet for spike studs or rivets.
2 (inc) x 6 [12]
3 (1sc, inc) x 6 [18]
4 18sc [18] Rounds 4-6: 3 rounds of 18sc.
5 18sc [18]
6 18sc [18]
7 (1sc, dec) x 6 [12] Insert studs evenly around the surface as desired. Add
glue to make sure they don’t come loose later.
8 (dec) x 6, leave opening to insert [6]
tail tip. Insert your tail tip into
the opening of the morning star
tail and sew to attach. (See black
dragon in Gallery at end of
pattern.)

FEATHER TAIL
Row Instructions [Total] Notes
1 Starting with a long enough tail to [4] Keep your tension nice and relaxed to avoid too
weave in, 6ch, turn, starting in the 2nd much curling at the tips of the rows.
chain from the hook, slst, 2sc, dec. Ch1
and turn.
2 BLO [2sc], 6ch and turn. [2]
3 Starting in the 2nd chain from the hook, [6]
BLO [slst, 4sc, dec]. 1ch and turn.
4 BLO [5sc], 6ch and turn. [5]
5 Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, [10]
BLO [slst, 9sc], 1ch and turn.
6 BLO [5sc], 4ch and turn. [5]
7 Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, [9]
BLO [slst, 6sc, inc], 1ch and turn.
8 BLO [4sc], 4ch and turn. [4]
9 Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, [8]
BLO [slst, 5sc, inc], 1ch and turn.
10 BLO [3sc], 4ch and turn. [3]
11 Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, [7]
BLO [slst, 4sc, inc].

Fasten off with a moderate tail for

sewing. Sew feather piece around the tip
of the tail. (See gold dragon in Gallery
at end of pattern).

59
 WING ATTACHMENT
The dragon in these photos doesn’t have any ornamentation on it because it’s just a photo model – at this point,
your dragon should have any ornamentation attached, because once the wings are on it can be really hard to
sew things on the neck and back.
Spread the two wires apart gently so that you can insert them into different stitch spaces. This will help to stabilize
the wing. The wires should be inserted directly above the shoulder at the nape of the neck. Stretch the lower edge
of Panel D straight down the back. Sew all into place.

60
 DRAGON GALLERY

Made in Malabrigo Rios in “Ivy” and “Lettuce” (both ~210yds/skein) with

Bextraordinary Creatures 16mm eyes in “Fjorrester.”

Made in Loops & Threads Impeccable in black (body) and Loops and Threads Facets in “Storm.”
Ornamentation includes neck spikes, morning star tail, and all three sizes of horn (from front: medium, large,
small). Eyes are Bextraordinary Creatures 18mm dragon pupil eyes in “Caleb”. Note: This is a thicker yarn, so this
dragon turned out slightly bigger and the larger eye size was appropriate.

61
Made in Prismatic Fiber and Artistry “Dragonfly in Amber” (body) and “Gilded” (wings), both 194yds per skein.
Eyes are Bextraordinary Creatures 16mm eyes in “He’s My Boy.”
Ornamentation includes head knobs, neck spikes (attached over rump) and feather tail.

62