THREE MILLENNIA OF TEXTILES + 4

Areas where textiles were found

ancient in the current countries of
Peru and Bolivia.

The texts presented here correspond to the fourth version of the

exhibition Three Millennia of Textiles. Every year the National Museum
Ethnography and Folklore renews this exhibition with a new
selection of textiles from their warehouses of goods
organic.
Due to being dedicated materials that cannot be exposed to
bright lights, illustrations are not presented in this section.
BACKGROUND
Before fibers were used to make fabrics and garments of
to dress, animal skin was used as clothing. The origin
of the tissue is found in the ropes, cords, baskets, and mats
made with plant fibers. The first fabrics in the Andes
data from about 8 to 10 thousand years ago, when they began to be made
interwoven fabrics, ringed or in the form of a net, that did not require
any device for its preparation.
2000 years before Christ, the use of soft fibers began such as the
cotton and camelid wool. The fabric became an activity
of great demand whose rise was also due to the discovery of
loom, allowing for speed and higher levels of complexity in the
textile techniques.
The pre-Hispanic textiles were made with very techniques
creative and sophisticated, both for the fineness of their threads, colors,
weaves and warp, like the motifs represented in them.
Fabrics of different quality and varied uses were made: the
coarser fabrics, called awaska, had a production cost
smaller than the fine ones, called cumbi, and the latter not only
they had selected material, it also involved labor
qualified and its use was of a ritual character.
If in its origins the fabric had a useful function, resulting from the
activity of all members of a society without distinction
some, later also became the external expression
of power and wealth.
The following is a detail of the cultures, periods and
regions from which pieces are on display:
Chimú
Between 1000 and 1400 AD (North Coast of Peru).
Tiwanaku
From 400 to 1100 A.D. (highland of Bolivia, in its period
expansive reached the shores of the Pacific.
3. Puki
It developed in parallel to Tiwanaku (region of lakes and salt flats)
from Bolivia) .
4. Paracas
It developed between 1200 and 200 BC (South Coast of Peru).
5. Nazca
Between 200 BC and 600 AD (Southern coast of Peru).
6. Chancay
Between 1100 and 1400 AD (Central Coast of Peru).
7. Inca
It developed from 1200 to 1532 AD (Bolivia, Peru, Colombia,
Ecuador, Chile, and Argentina.
Colonial
The technique of fabric production in the Andean region before
the Colony differed totally from those techniques brought by the
Spaniards.
The fabrics were made for specific purposes, being determined
before its production, the function that a garment should fulfill;
Hispanics brought with them the cutting of the fabric, not permissible in the
Andean world, and the manufacturing of garments by cuts.
It is important to emphasize that despite the insertion of new
technologies were maintained along with other elements such as the use of the
metallic fibers as the chronicles refer to, garments used in the
Inca events. The pieces present in this exhibition had as
epicenters originating from Potosí, Oruro, and La Paz, which do not present
specific characteristics of a certain region.
10. Lake Titicaca Region
This sector includes the provinces of Camacho, Omasuyos, Manco
Kapac, Los Andes, and Ingavi, which are around Lake Titicaca.
(department of La Paz).
The fabrics of this area are characterized by their awayus, ponchos and
taris. The main ornamental motifs are the horsemen, the inti
(sun), the scissors, ese (S) and equis (X); their technique is characterized by the
use of pebble (supplementary warp of two colors that results in
resulting in a speckled background).

Currently, fabrics are produced with fibers of natural colors.

The use of these has pre-Hispanic and colonial antecedents.
Bertonio refers to the Aymara word 'korapa' to designate clothing.
not dyed, although it presents various colors or natural shades.
This word was used before the name of the garment. In
In Omasuyo, this type of weaving is still done, such as taris and bags.
sacks and ponchos.
Some of the pieces on display from this region are mentioned:
10.1. Iscayo
Men's garment, was usually worn for important occasions.
as rites of passage among which marriage stood out. The
garment, due to the color arrangement, originates from the region of
ancient lordship Pacajes. In its use, it was similar to alawayo, only that
the lists that make up the piece were used vertically. This
Type of parts ceased to be used in the middle of the last century.
10.2. Ch´uqaña
Small rectangular blanket that women used.
indiscriminately to cover the head or carry coca in it, called
"tari" in the Pacajes region and also known as "uncuña."
It presents a color-changing phenomenon known as "pigeon breast".
10.3. Let's Cry
Colonial garment, for ritual and everyday use, made in two parts
asymmetrical, Made of alpaca fiber with the twisting technique
It has a iridescent appearance, known as 'pigeon chest'.
10.4. Healing
Colonial garment, used for ritual and everyday purposes, constructed in two parts
symmetrical. Made of alpaca fiber with the twisting technique
It presents a iridescent appearance known as 'pigeon chest.'
10.5. Llaquta
It has a rectangular shape and is made in two symmetrical parts.
in flat fabric, it is used by the man as a knotted cloak over
the chest. Made of alpaca fiber with twisted fabric in the loom
horizontal with the complementary warp technique. It presents a
iridescent known as "pigeon chest."
10.6. Mesa awayu
Colonial piece in a square shape with two symmetrical parts,
usually used in ritual acts.
Made with alpaca fibers and metal using twisting techniques
a cloth and a locket.

10.7. Table awayu

Colonial garment made from alpaca fiber, it has a blue pampa and its
The decorative structure features thin strips interspersed with motifs.
zoomorphic, anthropomorphic, and geometric.
10.8. Belt
It is a garment with a greater length proportion than width, woven.
in one piece and worn around the waist; for everyday use,
Currently, it is used by men and women. Made from sheep's wool.
and alpaca.
It presents zoomorphic, anthropomorphic, and geometric iconography.

10.9. Poncho
A male garment, with a simple structure similar to that of the unku, can be
consider a derivation of this. Its use became widespread in the century
XIX. For everyday use, made of alpaca fiber.
11. Calamarca
Location situated in the Fourth Section of the Aroma province
(Department of La Paz). Their fabrics present pampa (space)
without iconography) black or brown, the rise (space with iconography)
narrow and in some cases they use the technique of weaving (warp)
complementary of two or three colors that results in a
mottled background). The predominant motifs in the iconography are
two-headed birds, (of pre-Hispanic descent), monkeys, vizcachas and
rhombuses surrounded by phytomorphic elements.
The ceremonial pieces, although they have the same characteristics of
the everyday ones have the widest range and a formal repertoire,
where condors and a sign called punkuo are represented
representation of the Gate of the Sun of Tiwanacu. These are interspersed
with yokes of oxen, horses, and corn; it is also present the
hexagon.
12. Sica Sica
Capital of the First Section of the Aroma province (department
from La Paz). The "awayu aymara" present brown or black
alternating with consultations, unlike Calamarca, it has no motives.
natural only geometric. Antique pieces have decorations of
triangles and, occasionally birds or viscachas, made with
natural dyes.
Colonial examples have high weavings with silver threads.
contemporary fabrics are dyed with aniline, with stripes
multicolored and narrow ysalta, disappearing from this the "peble"
being replaced by letter decoration.
13. Achiri
It is part of the Second Section of the Pacajes province. Its
the fabric is sober due to its ayus, ponchos, and sashes; crafted in
alpaca wool, has several shades of red obtained from cochineal.
they are not made today, only a few samples remain of
principles of the early 20th century and earlier.

14. Charazani
Capital of the province of Bautista Saavedra (department of La
Peace), divided into 5 Cantons: Camata, Curva, Chullina, Chajaya and
Amarete, having Charazani as its capital.
The fabrics exhibit the lapampa (space without iconography) in a
minimum space in relation to alpallay (space with iconography), of
natural color; the nails, monochrome spaces, are a type of lists
broad ones that fit among cadapallay, which can be woven
painted designs. The designs are classified as: anthropomorphic,
zoomorphic and geometric with letters and figurative legends.
Meanwhile, pieces from the Ulla Ulla region are presented whose
influence reached Charazani.
15. Calcha
Located in the Nor Chichas province (Potosí department).
The fabric involves the combination between Calchaquí worldview and
elements of collective creativity among women, allowing the
reaffirmation of concepts and interpretation of tissues. Used
sakas models of figures that serve to copy and remember the
pallay (space with iconography).
16. Caiza
They belong to the ancient nation Caracara, which occupied the
provinces of Chayanta, Tomás Frías, Saavedra, Quijarro and Linares
(department of Potosí). Textiles receive a strong influence
Calcheña, the pallayes exclusively of diamonds and hooks. The
white, green, and red colors are predominant and in the pieces more
ancient ones combine with gold yellow.
17. Bolívar
Bolívar is the capital of the province Simón Bolívar (department
from Cochabamba), its old name was Quirquiavi. The evidence
these textiles disappeared as an active activity, remaining
only a few old copies.
Among the characteristics of some textiles, there are mentioned
large size with wide height (space with iconography), tiles
that exceed one meter in length, approximately tariff
70 and 80 cm, decorated with stripes of various colors and pebbles.
(complementary weave of three colors that results in
a marbled background); ch'uspas, long belts to surround
the waist several times and small ponchos of one square meter
approximately, decorated with wide stripes.
18. North Potosí
Norte Potosí includes the provinces of Bustillos and Alonso de Ibáñez.
General Bilbao, Charcas and Chayanta. Their fabrics define an area
differentiated that surpasses the territorial boundaries of the department
from Potosí with demonstrations in the surrounding sectors in the
Oruro department, such as Culta and Urmiri of Quillacas and in
the region of Cochabamba, mainly with the surrounding area of
Bolívar.
19. Jalq’a
Known as Potolos, they are located in the department of
Chuquisaca, border with Potosí. Its fabrics have elpallay (space)
with iconography made with the threads of the fabric) that reaches to have
up to 80 cm., the black lapampa (space without iconography) and rarely
brown, made of alpaca and sheep wool. The designs show, according to
to his worldview, the dark world, imagined as a space
chaotic, which the weavers call 'chaxrusqa kanan tian' (it has
what being disorganized). The images do not have the color white
neither yellow, although there are no watery tones like sky blues,
pink, aqua green, nor matte shades like beige, grays
clear, etc. In its preparation, everything that may evoke the
presence of light.
20.Tarabuco
The textile style of Tarabuco is located in the towns of Presto,
Tarabuco, Yamparaez and Icla (department of Chuquisaca).
The fabrics are characterized by bright colored dyes,
inspired by their environment, they show social motifs, beliefs,
traditions, animals, plants, and flowers. They are distinguished from others by the
relief found in elpallay (space with iconography made
with the threads of the fabric), due to the difference in thickness between the
warp threads (cotton and wool).
The activity of weaving on a loom is exclusively assigned to the
women. The work begins with shearing, then the
dyeing of the wools, until reaching the final finish of the piece.
Guarani
Located in the departments of Santa Cruz, Chuquisaca, and Tarija.
They are considered a warrior people, they faced...
the Incas on several occasions, to such an extent that the Incas sent
large numbers of soldiers to the 'Chiriguana border'. The
Viceroy Toledo declared war on them in 1574. No state had them.
they could defeat, until in 1881, in Kuruyuki, they were decimated
by the forces of the Bolivian army. For years they were in
point of disappearing.
The quality of their fabrics is remarkable because they inhabit different
climatic spaces and weave different types of clothing and
accessories.
22.Weenhayek
Located in the Gran Chaco, they occupy part of the Central Chaco and
Southern Chaco (Bolivia, Paraguay, and Argentina).
They suffered a series of incursions during the Inca conquest.
part of the mitmas of Chinchaysuyo, had during the Colony
contact with the Spaniards who called them comomataco-
noctenes. The populationweenhayek (the different) orweenhayek
wikyi (the different people). Currently, the region has 2,000
inhabitants.
The original dress in pre-Hispanic times was made of animal skin.
(nutria, fox or deer). They also wore sleeveless woven shirts.
from point (thorn needle) and from caraguatá, a product that served them
against enemy arrows, as ceremonial clothing and against the cold.
They also knew a kind of cotton that they used until 1930.
approximately. The influence of the Chané (an ethnic group located in
(North) brought with it the introduction of the pre-Hispanic loom.
Arawak. Knowledgeable about the fiber of camelids due to their proximity to the
Andean zone, obtained these products through barter from the Incas.
23. Ayoreode
Currently, different camps inhabit Bolivia.
(mainly Santa Cruz) and Paraguay.
The first contact with the whites occurred in the 17th century.
in Jesuit reductions. The failure of the Catholic missions, the
Chaco War, the discovery of oil wells, along with
with the insertion of settlers, they caused the departure from their territory.

The word ayore in the Zamuco language means "man" or "people";

also called comorotoco, poturero, and guañaroca.
In ancient times, they were divided into 7 clans (Chiquenoi/Chiqueñoro,
Picanerai/Picanere, Etacori/Etacore, Dosapei/Dosape, Cutamorajai/
Cutamiñoro, Posorajai/Posiñoro y Jnurumini/Jnurumine
directly related to the seven clans of nature and
with symbolic identification badges.
They wove bags with needles, skirts and covers with vertical looms.
The orientation of the fibers can be vertical (male) or horizontal.
(female), it was said, could avoid pregnancy. For being a group
quite itinerant they used various types of bags, personal adornments
for the man and the woman who aimed to remember the
couple their marital status on the long trips they took in
food search.
24. Moriena (moré)
Located in the Mamoré province of the Beni department. Until
Before 1940, it was stated that the moregenauts used
the clothing made from tree bark (wild fig or bibosi),
they produced shirts called carapacán carapacán caracao,
used inside the huts, to go to the jungle they would go out naked.
The garments for men and women were made by men. In
At times, the chiefs wore feather headdresses shaped like fans.
that came from a bird called tojo.
They used the pre-Hispanic loom for the production of hammocks.
cotton and banana fiber.
The fiber was spun to the left and twisted to the right; for the
The spindle known as comohuom was recognized.
25. Chacobo
Town located in the Vaca Diez province of the department of
Me. For years they were harassed by the exploiters of the
gum, chestnut, and quinine. They managed to escape and located themselves in their
actual territory. In the mid-twentieth century they had their first
contacts with the Summer Linguistic Institute and the Mission
Swedish Evangelical, which allowed them to buy their lands. They were
one of the first groups that began school education in
bilingual format, long before the implementation of the Reform
Educational, in the 1970s.
His main skill is working with the bruised bark,
with which they managed to obtain their clothing.
26. Araona
Historically, the Araonas were located in the region of the
Manupare and Manurimi rivers, in the municipality of Ixiamas, province
Iturralde from the department of La Paz, currently living in Puerto.
Araona. During the pre-Hispanic era, it is claimed that they had
contact with the Incas. Even in the colony, the Franciscans did
several attempts to establish reductions which failed.
Later, the New Tribes Mission was able to contact them.
and were reduced in the town where they currently live.
27. Moxos
Region located in the department of Beni with more than 200,000
km2. During the time of the Spanish conquest, they were part of 25
reductions or Jesuit missions from 1667 to 1767.
D'Orbigny reports that Moxeña women spun and wove the
essential hammock clothing, dressing for celebrations
with colored feathers. Men and women wore a shirt or
sleeveless shirt, made from the bark of the tree called bibosí. For
to make these garments, they chose the youngest trees without knots, then
By flipping the tree, the size of the camijeta was calculated. There existed
two types of shirt, from bark and from cotton, the first one was used
to rest and the second on holidays.