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100% found this document useful (1 vote)
624 views11 pages

RippleJacket ... E

Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Ripple Jacket

Ripple is a cool jacket with the comfort of a knit cardigan.


A flattering cut and princess lines that conjure away a few pounds make this jacket a unique wardrobe staple.
Knit at a big gauge, it is a rather quick project. The detailed instructions will lead you through to knit a wonderful and versatile everyday piece.
The pattern includes many options for the shaping, to create a perfectly fitting cardigan for you!

Sizes

XS – S – M – L – XL – 2XL – 3XL – 4XL


Finished bust 86-146cm/34”–58” and additional / in-between-sizes up to 152cm/60”
Find detailed measurements and draft on page 2.

Materials

Two fingering weight yarns held together for the special marled effect – click here to find tips for the yarn choice
or any other yarn matching the gauge - worsted or aran weight (approximately 90m/99yds per 50g)
Estimated consumption in meters and yards: see page 2 (note: if using 2 fingering weight yarns held together, you need the given quantity
for each yarn). Differences in gauge and yarn choice will affect the amount of yardage used.
Sample was knit in size M with double waist shaping (options c+c), and 5cm/2” ease.
Yarn (resulting in a crisp fabric): Drops Safran (100% cotton, color 64) held together with Drops Alpaca (color 618)
4.5-5mm/US 7-8 needles, or size needed for gauge, 80-100cm/32-40" circulars,
double pointed needles of same size (optional if preferred for sleeves),
stitch markers, removable stitch marker or safety pin, waste yarn, crochet hook, tapestry needle,
3 buttons (2.5cm/1” diameter)

Gauge

In stockinette stitch AND garter stitch (blocked): 10 cm / 4“ = 18 stitches and 26 rows


make sure to swatch in stockinette and garter stitch side by side and block your swatch!

Please consider that you will spend many hours knitting this cardigan,
but only a few minutes to make a gauge swatch … it is worth the time!
Try different needle sizes to obtain gauge and wash and dry your swatch before measuring.
Pattern directions that differ among sizes are specified as XS – S – M – L – XL – 2XL – 3XL – 4XL. Sizes L – XL are highlighted for the ease of reading. Where only one
number is given, it pertains to all sizes. To understand the construction, please read the entire pattern before you start and mark the numbers for your size.
Find abbreviations and techniques on page 3.

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Draft Measurements of the finished cardigan (buttoned) at given gauge 18 sts x 26 rows = 10 cm / 4”
A Option for more
B sleeve width For in-between sizes or additional sizes up to 60”, choose the smaller size and adapt as indicated on page 9, step 9.
(up to 4cm/1.6”)
cm XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL
XS 4XL S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL
30-32 34-36 38-40 40-42 44-46 48-50 52-54 56-58
I
F A 13 13 13 14 16 16 16 16 5.25 5.25 5.25 5.75 6.25 6.25 6.25 6.25
G
B 33 36 38 39 40 40 42 42 13.25 14.25 15.00 15.50 16.00 16.00 17.00 17.00
C H C 86 93 102 111 119 128 137 146 34.50 37.00 40.75 44.25 47.75 51.25 55.00 58.50
J Db) 77 84 93 102 111 119 128 137 31.00 33.50 37.00 40.75 44.25 47.75 51.25 55.00
Bust-darts
Dc) 68 75 84 93 102 111 119 128 27.25 30.00 33.50 37.00 40.75 44.25 47.75 51.25
D Eb+b) 88 95 104 113 122 131 139 148 35.25 38.00 41.50 45.00 48.75 52.25 55.75 59.25
K Eb+c) 99 106 115 124 133 142 151 159 39.75 42.50 46.00 49.50 53.00 56.75 60.25 63.75
Options for waist-
Ec+c) 91 97 106 115 124 133 142 151 36.25 39.00 42.50 46.00 49.50 53.00 56.75 60.25
shaping b), c) and F 29 31 33 37 40 44 46 50 11.50 12.50 13.25 15.00 16.00 17.75 18.25 20.00
Option for 3
E hip -shaping b), c) G 20 22 23 25 26 26 26 30 8.00 9.00 9.25 10.00 10.25 10.25 10.25 12.00
or 5 buttons or straight option H 41 41 44 45 45 45 45 45 16.25 16.25 17.50 17.75 17.75 17.75 18.25 18.25
I 19 20 21 23 22 23 22 23 7.50 8.00 8.50 9.00 9.00 9.25 9.00 9.25
J 21 22 22 23 23 23 23 22 8.25 9.00 9.00 9.25 9.25 9.25 9.25 9.00
Find help, support and motivation in my K(1) 52 55 56 58 58 58 58 58 21.00 22.00 22.50 23.50 23.25 23.25 23.25 23.25
Ravelry-group (click here). K(2) 55 58 59 62 61 61 61 61 22.25 23.25 23.75 24.50 24.50 24.50 24.50 24.50
estimated consumption for short version (K1) with waist shaping (b+b) in meters and yards; version K2) +10%
This pattern has been carefully reviewed, tech edited and tested m 840 905 990 1075 1160 1245 1330 1415 yds 925 995 1090 1185 1275 1370 1465 1555
by experienced knitters in an attempt to ensure accuracy. Yarn consumption per thread if held double.
If you find any errors, please send me a personal message on Ravelry.

More Design von Hinterm Stein … click here for an overview

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Dear Knitter hook, creating a stitch on the needle] repeat until desired stitch
count, using the loop from the crochet hook as the last stitch.
Thank you for purchasing a pattern from Hinterm Stein. I am happy that you (click for Tutorial)
like my design and I wish you joyful knitting hours! DS: double stitch (German short rows … quick and easy)
Turn, bring yarn forward, slip first stitch as if to purl and pull
This design uses basic knitting techniques. The instructions are very detailed
the yarn firmly over the top towards the back (this creates a
and clearly outline all the steps, to make knitting as relaxed as possible. double stitch with 2 legs = DS). Work the following stitch firmly
to avoid holes and tighten carefully. In the next row knit/purl
When choosing yarn, make sure to choose a material that blocks well so that (according to pattern) the DS as one stitch (click for Tutorial)
the garter sections will become equally as long as the stockinette part! k: knit
k2tog: knit 2 together (1 st decreased)
The Ripple Jacket is knit seamlessly from the top down, starting at the back
k2to5: k 2 sts together and knit 5 stitches out of these 2: as (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) (3
shoulder. Then stitches are picked up from the shoulder slants to knit the fronts, sts increased) (click for Tutorial)
armholes and the whole upper body in one piece, including the front bands and ksk: (knit, slip, knit): knit 1, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, knit 1
collar. The princess lines are used to create a flattering silhouette. m: marker (where not mentioned, slip markers as you come to them)
After separating the sleeves, optional bust darts are worked for an optimized
m1L/m1Lp: (make one left - left leaning increase): insert the left needle from front to back into
the horizontal strand between two stitches and knit/purl through the back loop
fit and the body is worked down – choose from 3 options for the body shape m1R/m1Rp: (make one right - right leaning increase): insert the left needle from back to front
and from 2 lengths for your perfectly fitting cardigan. into the horizontal strand between two stitches and knit/purl through the front loop
p: purl
To finish, the sleeves are knit in the round. p2tog: purl 2 sts together
PL: princess line
Enjoy your new project! pm: place marker
All the Best from Hinterm Stein R: row / round
Jutta rm: remove marker
RS: right side of work
sl1: slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front
Find help, support and motivation in my Ravelry-group (click here). sk2to5: slip 1 knitwise, slip back to left needle, k 2 sts together through back loops and knit 5
stitches out of these 2 as (k1tbl, yo, k1tbl, yo, k1tbl) (3 sts increased) (click for Tutorial)
sks: (slip, knit, slip): slip 1, knit 1, slip 1 (always slip purlwise with yarn in front)
Abbreviations and Techniques sksk: (slip, knit, slip, knit): [slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, knit 1] twice
sm: slip marker
[…] where instructions are in [brackets], repeat as often as indicated ssk: (slip, slip, knit): [slip a stitch knitwise with yarn in back] twice, insert left needle from
after the bracket left to right into fronts of both stitches and knit together through back loops (1 st decreased)
bef: before st/sts: stitch/stitches
crochet cast on: start with a slip knot or insert crochet hook into twist 2 sts: insert right needle as if to k2tog, but just slip the sts, then slip them back to left
first stitch, [bring yarn to back, hook the yarn around the needle
knitting needle and pull it through the loop on the crochet WS: wrong side of work
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1. Collar R3 (RS) k2, sl1, k1, m1R, k to 4 bef end, m1L, k1, sl1, k2 (2 sts increased)
R4 (WS) p2, k1, sl1, m1R, k to 4 bef end, m1L, sl1, k1, p2 (2 sts increased)
The collar is knit sideways in garter stitch with slip stitch I-cord edges (all sts are
slipped with yarn in front). Starting at the back neck center, work as follows: Repeat R3-4 another 8-9-10-10-10-10-11-11 times.

R1 (RS) Using working yarn, cast on 13 sts with crochet cast on = 60-64-68-70-72-72-76-76 sts
(note: crochet cast on will provide best results when picking up sts for the other side) Cut yarn. Place sts on hold.
R2 (WS) sksk, k5, sksk (sksk=slip, knit, slip, knit)

Repeat R2 another 22-22-22-24-26-26-26-26 times, ending after


a WS row. (= 24-24-24-26-28-28-28-28 rows)
Cut yarn, place sts on hold. 3. Right Front Shoulder

R1 (RS) Rotate work and, on RS, pick up and knit Pick up on RS Work the right front shoulder in garter stitch and Pick up
13 sts from crochet cast on edge from cast on continue the neckband as follows:
R2 (WS) sksk, k5, sksk
R1 (RS) Rotate your work ¼ turn clockwise and
Repeat R2 another 23-23-23-25-27-27-27-27 times,
pick up and knit 20-22-24-24-24-24-26-26 sts
ending after a RS row. (= 25-25-25-27-29-29-29-29 rows)
Do not turn after final row. Do not cut yarn, place sts on hold. along right shoulder slant (1 st per R),
transfer 13 collar-sts from holder to left needle and work as follows: pm,
k2tog, sl1, k1, k5, sksk (1 st decreased at collar)
2. Upper Back – Shoulder Slant
R2 (WS) sksk, k5, sks, sm, k to 1 bef end, p1
For the shoulder shaping, work in garter stitch with Pick up and knit R3 (RS) k1, ssk, k to m, sm, ksk, k5, sksk (1 st decreased at shoulder)
edge pattern and increase at both sides in every R4 (WS) sksk, k5, sks, sm, k to 1 bef end, p1
row to create a trapezoid as follows: R5 (RS) k to m, sm, ksk, k5, sksk
R6 (WS) sksk, k5, sks, sm, k to 1 bef end, p1
R1 (RS) rotate your work ¼ turn clockwise and,
with ongoing yarn, pick up and knit 24-24-24- Repeat R3-6 once. Repeat only R5-6 another 4-5-6-6-7-7-9-9-times.
26-28-28-28-28 sts for the back neck (always 1 st Cut yarn. Place sts on hold.
per I-cord row, 2 I-cord stitches remain visible on RS) = 30-32-34-34-34-34-36-36 sts
=18-20-22-22-24-24-28-28 rows
R2 (WS) p2, k1, sl1, k to 4 bef end, sl1, k1, p2

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4. Left Front Shoulder The sleeves are knit in stockinette stitch with increases for the arm shaping.
R2 Work as follows with ongoing yarn:
Pick up sts from left shoulder and collar and
R1 (RS) Front sksk, k5, ksk, sm, k to end of front, Pick up Pick up
work the left front shoulder as follows:
Sleeve rotate work ¼ turn clockwise, pm,
R1 (RS) With RS facing and starting R1: Pick up pick up and knit 12-14-14-14-16-
where back meets collar, pick up and knit 16-18-18 sts along shoulder edge (2
20-22-24-24-24-24-26-26 sts along left shoulder slant (1 st per R). sts per 3 R),
R2 (WS) p1, k to end of shoulder, pm, transfer 13 collar-sts from holder to Back rotate work and work sts from holder:
left needle and work: p2tog, twist 2 sts (for pattern consistency), then k1, pm, k1, ksk (for PL), k to 4 bef end, ksk (for PL), k1,
slip1, k5, sksk (1 st decreased at collar) Sleeve rotate work, pm, pick up and knit 12-14-14-14-16-16-18-18
sts along shoulder edge (2 sts per 3 R),
R3 (RS) sksk, k5, ksk, sm, k to 3 bef end, k2tog, k1 (1 st decreased at shoulder)
Front rotate work ¼ turn, knit sts from holder as follows:
R4 (WS) p1, k to m, sm, sks, k5, sksk
pm, k to m, sm, ksk, k5, sksk (you have now 6 markers)
R5 (RS) sksk, k5, ksk, sm, k to end
R6 (WS) p1, k to m, sm, sks, k5, sksk R2 (WS) Front sksk, k5, sks, sm, k to m,
Sleeve sm, m1Rp, p to m, m1Lp, sm,
Repeat R3-6 once, then
Back p1, sks, k to 4 sts bef m, sks, p1,
Repeat only R5-6 another 4-5-6-6-7-7-9-9-times.
Do not cut yarn. Sleeve sm, m1Rp, p to m, m1Lp, sm,
= 30-32-34-34-34-34-36-36 sts Front k to m, sm, sks, k5, sksk (2 sts increased each sleeve)
=18-20-22-22-24-24-28-28 rows = 30-32-34-34-34-34-36-36 sts each front
= 14-16-16-16-18-18-20-20 sts each sleeve
= 60-64-68-70-72-72-76-76 sts at back
5. Pick up stitches for sleeves and work to collar notch
R3 (RS) Front sksk, k5, ksk, sm, k to m,
From now on, the whole upper body is worked in one row (front-sleeve-back-sleeve- Sleeve sm, m1L, k to m, m1R, sm,
front). The fronts are worked in garter stitch with slip stitch pattern as before.
Back k1 (when repeating, k to PL), m1R, ksk, k2tog, k to 2 bef PL, ssk,
To shape the princess lines (PL) at the back, increases and decreases are
worked every 4 rows. The center is worked in garter stitch, the sides in ksk, m1L, k to m,
stockinette stitch. The princess lines are worked in slip stitch pattern Sleeve sm, m1L, k to m, m1R, sm,
(underlined). Front k to m, sm, ksk, k5, sksk
In WS rows, make sure to work until 1 st before the visible knit stitch, then (PL at back moved, 2 sts increased each sleeve)
work the sks. If desired, you may place additional distinct markers.
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R4 (WS) Front sksk, k5, sks, sm, k to m, R2 (WS) Front bind off with I-cord: [p2, p2tog, slip 3 sts back to left needle]
Sleeve sm, p to m, sm, repeat to m, rm, cast on with I-cord: p3, [slip 3 sts back to left
Back p to PL, sks, k to PL, sks, p to m, needle, p3] 9 times; skipping first row, pick up and purl 9 sts
Sleeve sm, p to m, sm, from I-cord (= 12 sts); k to 5 bef m, sks (for front PL), p2,
Front k to m, sm, sks, k5, sksk Sleeve sm, p to m, sm,
R5 (RS) Front sksk, k5, ksk, sm, k to m, Back p to PL, sks, k to PL, sks, p to m,
Sleeve sm, m1L, k to m, m1R, sm, Sleeve sm, p to m, sm,
Back k to PL, ksk, k to PL, ksk, k to m, Front p2, sks (for front PL), k to 4 bef end, sksk
Sleeve sm, m1L, k to m, m1R, sm,
Front k to m, sm, ksk, k5, sksk (2 sts increased each sleeve) Shape the princess lines at fronts and back every 4 rows and increase for the
R6 (WS) as established = same as R4 sleeves as follows:

Repeat R3-6 another 2-2-2-2-1-1-0-0 times R3 (RS) Front sksk, k to PL, ksk, k to m,
= 30-32-34-34-34-34-36-36 sts each front Sleeve sm, m1L, k to m, m1R, sm,
= 26-28-28-28-26-26-24-24 sts each sleeve Back k to PL, ksk, k to PL, ksk, k to m,
= 60-64-68-70-72-72-76-76 sts at back
Sleeve sm, m1L, k to m, m1R, sm,
Front k to PL, ksk, k to 4 bef end, sksk
6. Collar notch to armhole (2 sts increased each sleeve)

Work the collar notch and install the princess lines at the fronts as follows: R4 (WS) Front sksk, k to PL, sks, p to m,
Sleeve sm, p to m, sm,
R1 (RS) Front bind off with I-cord: [k2, ssk, slip 3 sts back to left needle] Back p to PL, sks, k to PL, sks, p to m,
repeat to m, rm, Sleeve sm, p to m, sm,
cast on with I-cord: k3, [slip 3sts back to left needle, k3] 9 times; Front p to PL, sks, k to 4 bef end, sksk
skipping first row, pick up and knit 9sts from I-cord (= 12 sts);
k to 2 bef m, k2to5 (for Princess Line), R5 (RS) Front sksk, k to PL, ksk, m1L, k to m,
Sleeve sm, m1L, k to m, m1R, sm, Sleeve sm, m1L, k to m, m1R, sm,
Back k to PL, m1R, ksk, k2tog, k to 2 bef PL, ssk, ksk, m1L, k to m, Back k to PL, m1R, ksk, k2tog, k to 2 bef PL, ssk, ksk, m1L, k to m,
Sleeve sm, m1L, k to m, m1R, sm, Sleeve sm, m1L, k to m, m1R, sm,
Front sk2to5 (for Princess Line), k to m, sm, ksk, k5, sksk Front k to PL, m1R, ksk, k to 4 bef end, sksk
(3 sts increased each front, 2 sts increased each sleeve, PL at back moved) (1 st increased each front, 2 sts increased each sleeve, PL at back moved)
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R6 (WS) as established = same as R4 R1 (RS) Note: *decreases/increases are worked to move the PL in R1 and in a following
6th row. In other RS-rows: k to PL, ksk skipping shaping marked with *
OPTION: In case you wish more sleeve width (check page 2 for measurements), work Front sksk, k to 2 bef PL, ssk*, ksk, m1L*, k to 1 bef m, m1R, k1,
following R7 with sleeve-increases (sleeve: sm, m1L, k to m, m1R, sm) (+2 Sleeve sm, m1L, k to m, pm (when repeating: sm, k to m), m1R, sm,
sts/1cm); for even more width, you may work increases also when repeating R7 (up Back k1, m1L, k to PL, m1R*, ksk, k2tog*, k to 2 bef PL, ssk*, ksk,
to +8 sts per sleeve). (Note: all following stitch counts will change accordingly)
m1L*, k to 1 bef m, m1R, k1,
Sleeve sm, m1L, pm, (when repeating: k to m, sm), k to m, m1R, sm,
R7 (RS) Front sksk, k to PL, ksk, k to m,
Front k1, m1L, k to PL, m1R*, ksk, k2tog*, k to 4 bef end, sksk
Sleeve sm, k to m, sm,
(PL at fronts and back moved, 2 sts increased each sleeve, 1 st increased each
Back k to PL, ksk, k to PL, ksk, k to m, armhole at front/back)
Sleeve sm, k to m, sm, (when repeating, if not a 6th row: no movement at PL’s, 2 sts increased each sleeve,
Front k to PL, ksk, k to 4 bef end, sksk 1 st increased each armhole at front/back)
(as established = no increases at sleeves, no movements at PL’s)
R2 (WS) Front sksk, k to PL, sks, p to m,
R8 (WS) as established = same as R4 Sleeve sm, p to m, sm, k to m, sm,
Back p to PL, sks, k to PL, sks, p to m,
Repeat R5-8 another 3 times. Sleeve sm, k to m, sm, p to m, sm,
= 37-39-41-41-41-41-43-43 sts each front Front p to PL, sks, k to 4 bef end, sksk
= 38-40-40-40-38-38-36-36 sts each sleeve
= 60-64-68-70-72-72-76-76 sts at back
Repeat R1-2 another 1-2-3-4-6-6-7-7 times, moving the princess lines on 3rd
and 6th repeat (every 6 rows).
7. Armhole and Sleeve Increases
= 39-42-45-46-48-48-51-51 sts each front
Move the princess lines at fronts and back every = 42-46-48-50-52-52-52-52 sts each sleeve
6 rows with decrease/increase. = 64-70-76-80-86-86-92-92 sts at back
Continue increases at the sleeves and work
increases to shape the armholes at fronts and Increase in RS and WS rows, continuing the PL shaping every 6 rows as
back. follows:
Start the garter pattern at the back side of the
sleeves. R3 (RS) same as R1 (moving PL’s only if a 6th row)
(2 sts increased each sleeve, 1 st increased each armhole at front/back; PL at fronts
Work as follows:
and back moved if a 6th row)
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R4 (WS) Front sksk, k to PL, sks, p to 1 bef m, m1Lp, p1, Front sm, cast on 3-3-4-5-7-9-10-12 sts, k to PL, m1R*, ksk,
Sleeve sm, m1Rp, p to m, sm, k to m, m1L, sm, k2tog*, k to 4 bef end, sksk
Back p1, m1Rp, p to PL, sks, k to PL, sks, p to 1 bef m, m1Lp, p1,
= 44-47-51-55-59-63-67-71 sts each front
Sleeve sm, m1R, k to m, sm, p to m, m1Lp, sm,
= 74-80-88-96-104-112-120-128 sts at back
Front p1, m1Rp, p to PL, sks, k to 4 bef end, sksk
(2 sts increased each sleeve, 1 st increased each armhole at front/back) R2 (WS) sksk, k to PL, sks, p to m (side), sm, p to PL, sks, k to PL, sks,
p to m (side), sm, p to PL, sks, k to 4 bef end, sksk
Repeat R3-4 another 0-0-0-1-1-2-2-3 times.
= 41-44-47-50-52-54-57-59 sts each front R3 (RS) Front sksk, k to 2 bef PL, ssk*, ksk, m1L*, k to m, sm,
= 46-50-52-58-60-64-64-68 sts each sleeve Back k to PL, m1R*, ksk, k2tog*, k to 2 bef PL, ssk*, ksk, m1L*, k
=68-74-80-88-94-98-104-108 sts at back to m,
Front sm, k to PL, m1R*, ksk, k2tog*, k to 4 bef end, sksk

8. Separate sleeves and work optional bust darts R4 (WS) same as R2

Sleeve stitches are placed on hold and underarm stitches are cast on to knit For an optimized fit, work bust darts with short rows and continue moving
fronts and back in one row. the princess lines every 6 rows as follows:
Continue the princess lines at fronts and back, moving them every 6 rows If you do not like bust darts, you may skip R5-6 and repeat R7-8 one extra time
with decrease/increase as before. Work as follows:
R5.1 (RS) Front sksk, k to 2 bef PL, ssk*, ksk, m1L*, k to m, turn
OPTION for In-Between Sizes: R5.2 (WS) DS, p to PL, sks, k to 4 bef end, sksk
You can adapt the width of body and sleeves by casting on 1-2 sts more each time - each cast on R5.3 (RS) sksk, k to 2 bef PL, ssk*, ksk, m1L*, k to 4 bef DS, turn
stitch will result in 4 sts more for the body (2cm/1”) and 2 sts for each sleeve (1cm/.5”).
R5.4 (WS) DS, p to PL, sks, k to 4 bef end, sksk
All following stitch counts will change accordingly.

Note: *decrease/increase only if a 6th row; k to PL, ksk in other rows Repeat R5.3-5.4 another 1-1-2-2-3-3-3-3 times.

R1 (RS) Front sksk, k to 2 bef PL, ssk*, ksk, m1L*, k to m, rm, R5.5 (RS) same as R3 (complete row)
cast on 3-3-4-5-7-9-10-12 sts,
R6.1 (WS) sksk, k to PL, sks, p to m, turn
Sleeve place sleeve sts on hold (including the pattern-marker),
R6.2 (RS) DS, k to PL, m1R*, ksk, k2tog*, k to 4 bef end, sksk
Back sm, cast on 3-3-4-4-5-7-8-10 sts, k to PL, m1R*, ksk,
R6.3 (WS) sksk, k to PL, sks, p to 4 bef DS, turn
k2tog*, k to 2 bef PL, ssk*, ksk, m1L*, k to m, rm, cast on
R6.4 (RS) DS, k to PL, m1R*, ksk, k2tog*, k to 4 bef end, sksk
3-3-4-4-5-7-8-10 sts,
Sleeve place sleeve sts on hold (including the pattern-marker), Repeat R6.3-6.4 another 1-1-2-2-3-3-3-3 times.
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Ripple Jacket
R6.5 (WS) same as R2 *Note: work buttonhole in R1 and then every 16 rows / every 2nd repeat of R1
See instructions for a buttonhole below.
R7 (RS) sksk, [k to PL, ksk] 4 times, k to 4 bef end, sksk
(do not move PL, even if a R6) R1 for option a) PL-moving row (RS) (no decreases, PL moved)
Front sksk, k to 2 bef PL, ssk, ksk, m1L, k to m, sm,
R8 (WS) same as R2 Back k to PL, m1R, ksk, k2tog, k to 2 bef PL, ssk, ksk, m1L, k to m,
Front sm, k to PL, m1R, ksk, k2tog, k to 9 bef end, work 4-st
Repeat R7-8 another 0-2-1-2-0-2-1-0 times.
buttonhole*, k1, sksk

R1 for option b) Decrease row (RS) (4 sts decreased at PL)


9. Body to Waist
Front sksk, k to 2 bef PL, ssk, ksk, k to m, sm,
Choose from 3 options for the waist shaping (and 3 options for hip width later): Back k to PL, ksk, k2tog, k to 2 bef PL, ssk, ksk, k to m,
Front sm, k to PL, ksk, k2tog, k to 9 bef end, work 4-st
Option a) for straight version (PL moved for a flattering silhouette) buttonhole*, k1, sksk
Option b) with moderate waist shaping at PL (4 sts decreased each time)
Option c) with double waist shaping at PL and sides (8 sts decreased each time) R1 for option c) Decrease row (RS) (8 sts decreased, at PL and sides)
Front sksk, k to 2 bef PL, ssk, ksk, k to 4 bef m, ssk, k2, sm,
Measurements for all options in cm and inch (fronts buttoned, 4cm/1.5” overlapping): Back k2, k2tog, k to PL, ksk, k2tog, k to 2 bef PL, ssk, ksk, k to 4
XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL bef m, ssk, k2,
straight 86 93 102 111 119 128 137 146 34.50 37.00 40.75 44.25 47.75 51.25 55.00 58.50 Front sm, k2, k2tog, k to PL, ksk, k2tog, k to 9 bef end, work 4-st
Waist b) 77 84 93 102 111 119 128 137 31.00 33.50 37.00 40.75 44.25 47.75 51.25 55.00 buttonhole*, k1, sksk
Waist c) 68 75 84 93 102 111 119 128 27.25 30.00 33.50 37.00 40.75 44.25 47.75 51.25
Hip b+b) 88 95 104 113 122 131 139 148 35.25 38.00 41.50 45.00 48.75 52.25 55.75 59.25 *Buttonhole – repeat every 16 rows (click here for a photo tutorial):
Hip b+c) 99 106 115 124 133 142 151 159 39.75 42.50 46.00 49.50 53.00 56.75 60.25 63.75 Bind off 4 sts without knitting them, pick up a loop through the first
Hip c+c) 91 97 106 115 124 133 142 151 36.25 39.00 42.50 46.00 49.50 53.00 56.75 60.25 bound off stitch, turn and crochet cast on 4 sts to left needle, turn,
slip the loop to left needle and knit it together with the next stitch.
Decreases for waist shaping are worked at the princess lines every 8 rows.
For the straight version, the princess lines are moved without decreases. All versions:
R2, 4, 6, 8 (WS) sksk, k to PL, sks, p to m (side), sm, p to PL, sks, k to PL, sks,
Buttonholes are worked every 16 rows (in R1 and then every 2nd repeat).
p to m (side), sm, p to PL, sks, k to 4 bef end, sksk
For in-between sizing, you may alternate R1a) and R1b) or R1b) and R1c). R3, 5, 7 (RS) sksk, k to PL, ksk, k to m (side), sm, k to PL, ksk, k to PL, ksk,
Work as follows: k to m (side), sm, k to PL, ksk, k to 4 bef end, sksk
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Repeat R1-8 another 3 times, working a buttonhole at 2nd repeat (every 16R). R1 for option b) Increase row (RS) (4 sts increased at PL)
(Note: blocking will stretch the garter sections at front and back sightly; so while working the Front sksk, k to PL, m1R, ksk, k to m, sm,
length of garter sections should not reach exactly to waist, 3-5cm above is good)
Back k to PL, ksk, m1L, k to PL, m1R, ksk, k to m,
Note: adapt the length if necessary, working as for R3 and R4. If you adapt the length here,
check the placement of the buttonholes in following rows! Front sm, k to PL, ksk, m1L, k to 9 bef end, work 4-st
buttonhole*, k1, sksk
Stitch counts for all body shaping options: R1 for option c) Increase row (RS) (8 sts increased, at PL and sides)
XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL Front sksk, k to PL, m1R, ksk, k to 2 bef m, m1R, k2, sm,
Bust/straight 162 174 190 206 222 238 254 270 Back k2, m1L, k to PL, ksk, m1L, k to PL, m1R, ksk, k to 2 bef m,
Waist b) 146 158 174 190 206 222 238 254 m1R, k2,
Waist c) 130 142 158 174 190 206 222 238 Front sm, k2, m1L, k to PL, ksk, m1L, k to 9 bef end, work 4-st
Hip b+b) 166 178 194 210 226 242 258 274 buttonhole*, k1, sksk
Hip b+c) 186 198 214 230 246 262 278 294
Hip c+c) 170 182 198 214 230 246 262 278 All versions:
R2, 4, 6, 8 (WS) sksk, k to PL, sks, p to m (side), sm, p to PL, sks, k to PL, sks,
p to m (side), sm, p to PL, sks, k to 4 bef end, sksk
R3, 5, 7 (RS) sksk, [k to PL, ksk] 4 times, k to 4 bef end, sksk
10. Body – Waist to bottom

Work increases for the hip width as follows, choosing from 3 options. Repeat R1-8 another 4 times for short version K1) (as shown).
Buttonholes are finished for the 3-button version after R1. Then repeat R1-8 an additional 2 times for long version K2).
For classic option, continue the buttonholes every 16R to a total of 5. If desired, continue the buttonholes to a total of 5, or stop after 3 (as shown)

Option a) for straight version (PL moved towards the sides)


Bottom band:
Option b) with moderate hip increases at PL (4 sts increased each time)
Option c) with double hip increases at PL and sides (8 sts increased each time) R1 (RS) sksk, [k to PL, ksk] 4 times, k to 4 bef end, sksk
For in-between sizing, you may alternate R1a) and R1b) or R1b) and R1c) R2 (WS) sksk, [k to PL, sks] 4 times, k to 4 bef end, sksk

Repeat R1-2 another 5 times


R1 for option a) PL-moving row (RS) (no increases, PL moved)
then bind off with I-cord:
Front sksk, k to PL, m1R, ksk, k2tog, k to m, sm,
k3, slip 3 sts back to left needle, [k2, ssk, slip 3 sts back to left needle] repeat to
Back k to 2 bef PL, ssk, ksk, m1L, k to PL, m1R, ksk, k2tog, k to m,
3 bef end and graft last 3 sts together in Kitchener stitch creating a neat corner
Front sm, k to 2 bef PL, ssk, ksk, m1L, k to 9 bef end, work 4-st
buttonhole*, k1, sksk
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11. Right Sleeve R1 (RS) sm, k to m, sm p to m
R2 (RS) sm, k to m, sm, k to m
Work in the round with circulars (and magic loop) or double pointed needles.
Repeat R1-2 another 5 times.
Start at center underarm: pm, pick up and knit 3-3-4-4-5-7-8-10 sts from
underarm cast on, pick up and work sleeve sts from holder: k to m, sm, k to Starting in next round, decrease to a total of 8-8-9-11-13-17-18-18 times
end, pick up and knit 3-3-4-5-7-9-10-12 sts from underarm cast on every 12-12-12-10-8-6-6-6 rounds as follows:

= 52-56-60-67-72-80-82-90 sts Decrease-round (replacing a R1):


R1 (RS) sm, p to m, sm, k to m sm, k2, k2tog, k to 4 bef m, ssk, k2, sm, p to m (2 sts decreased)
R2 (RS) sm, k to m, sm, k to m After last decrease, work 10 rounds or to desired length as in R1-2.
(allowing 2.5cm/1” for the cuff)
Repeat R1-2 another 5 times. = 36-40-42-45-46-46-46-54 sts
Starting in next round, decrease to a total of 8-8-9-11-13-17-18-18 times
every 12-12-12-10-8-6-6-6 rounds as follows: For the cuff, work 8 rounds in garter stitch by purling every other round, then
bind off with I-cord:
Decrease round (replacing a R1):
sm, p to m, sm, k2, k2tog, k to 4 bef m, ssk, k2 (2 sts decreased) Cast on 3 sts, [k2, ssk, slip 3 sts back to left needle] repeat to end, graft last 3
After last decrease, work 10 rounds or to desired length as in R1-2. sts together with cast-on sts using Kitchener stitch
(try on; allow 2.5cm/1” for the cuff)
= 36-40-42-45-46-46-46-54 sts
13. Finishing
For the cuff, work 8 rounds in garter stitch by purling every other round, then
bind off with I-cord: I hope you enjoyed knitting this Design von Hinterm Stein!
Cast on 3 sts, [k2, ssk, slip 3 sts back to left needle] repeat to end, graft last 3
For a perfect look and uniform knit fabric, wash and dry flat or steam iron
sts together with cast-on sts using Kitchener stitch carefully. Don’t skip this finishing touch – it is worth the effort!
Weave in ends, sew on buttons and …
… enjoy your Ripple Jacket!
12. Left Sleeve
And wear it with pride! ☺

Start at center underarm: pm, pick up and knit 3-3-4-5-7-9-10-12 sts from
underarm cast on, pick up and work sleeve sts from holder: k to m, sm, k to
end, pick up and knit 3-3-4-4-5-7-8-10 sts from underarm cast on
= 52-56-60-67-72-80-82-90 sts
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