«Bell»

BODY pattern

AUTHOR: JULIA MYAZINA

https://www.instagram.com/julja_myzina/
 The Pattern of this crocheted doll is copyrighted and
not subject to distribution by third parties
CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS:
MR – magic/amigurumi ring;
CH – chain;
SC - single crochet;
DC - double crochet;
HDC - half double crochet;
INC - increase;
DEC – decrease (I use invisible decreases);
TDEC - treble decrease;
SL ST – slip stitch, connecting column;
FLO - front half loop (half loop closest to you);
BLO - back half loop (half loop farthest from you)
St – stitch, Sts - stitches

materials:
yarn “PEHORKA Openwork” color 68 (50gm / 280m);
copper electric wire size 1mm - 70 cm;
scissors;
hook 0,6 мм;
fabric tape;
stuffing;
pliers;
skewer.

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 attention!!!
All crochet takes place on the wrong side, so the doll will come out neater,
especially face (if you do not know how to crochet on the wrong side,
When crocheting with the above materials, your doll will be about 22 cm.
Use thicker or thinner materials if you want to change the size of the doll.

In the process of crocheting, you may be faced with the fact, that the
paired parts of the doll (legs, arms) could differ in lengths or thicknesses.
This is due to the fact, that on different days or even within the same day,
the thread tension in your hands changes. So, I advise you to crochet
two paired parts of the doll in parallel (i.e. crochet several rows of
one leg, then set it aside and crochet several rows of the other leg).

In this pattern, I crochet with the so-called "check marks". This

crocheting comes out less dense. There is also crocheting
with "crosses", it comes out denser, but, for example, it will be
very difficult to embroider a face.

If during crocheting your doll knees (or nose for example) will be
in the wrong place, that mean you should work a few offset stitches
to place the knees in the right position. After that you just finish
the row following the pattern, place the marker in the new position
and continue to crochet “as nothing happen”. That is fine, because
we all crochet differently.

P.S. I use two size of the skewer (thick and thin). A thin skewer is more convenient
for stuffing small parts. Also, for your convenience, I advise you to break off the
tips of both skewers, so it will be easier to tamp the stuffing.

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 arms
right arm:
Watch the video PART 1: “Right arm”. You can also watch the video
called “HAND”, in this video uses a thick thread, so you can see the
sts clearer.

PINKY: 5 CH, 4 sl st in the chain. (4)

RING FINGER: 6 CH, 5 sl st in the chain. (5)

MIDDLE FINGER: 6 CH, 5 sl st in the chain. (5)

FOREFINGER: 6 CH, 5 sl st in the chain. (5)

1) 5 sc one one side of the fingers, on the other side:(sc, inc, 3 sc, inc).
(13) - place the marker

2) 13 sc. (13)

3) (5 CH, 4 sl st in the chain), 13 sc. (13)

4) 2 sc in the thumb, 13 sc. (15)

5) dec, 13 sc. (14)

6) (dec, 4 sc)*2, dec. (11)

7)-10) 11 sc. (11)

Cut 12 cm of the copper wire and uncover it, or use a wire without
covering. Bend the wire at one end for 1 cm, and wrap it with a fabric
tape, but not to the end of the wire (leave about 2 cm, this end will be
wrapped around the neck later). Insert the wire into the doll's palm
and stuff.

11) 6 sc, inc, 4 sc. (12)

12)-14) 12 sc. (12)

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15) 7 sc, inc, 4 sc. (13) - an inc should be located above the pinky

16)-21) 13 sc. (13)

22) dec, sc, dec, 3 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc.(13) - stuff it

23) sc, inc, 5 sc, dec, 4 sc. (13)

24)-35) 13 sc. (13)

36) 6 sc, sl st, CH. - stuff it

In the row 36 work a few more or less sts to reach the middle of the
armpit (if it is needed), make sl st, CH and cut the thread.

LEFT ARM:
Watch the video PART 2: “Left arm”.

FOREFINGER: 6 CH, 5 sl st in the chain. (5)

MIDDLE FINGER: 6 CH, 5 sl st in the chain. (5)

RING FINGER: 6 CH, 5 sl st in the chain. (5)

PINKY: 5 CH, 4 sl st in the chain. (4)

1) 5 sc on one side of the fingers, on the other side:(sc, inc, 3 sc, inc).
(13) - place the marker

2) 13 sc. (13)

3) 5 sc, (5 CH, 4 sl st in the chain), 8 sc. (13)

4) 5 sc, 2 sc in the thumb, 8 sc. (15)

5) 5 sc, dec, 8 sc. (14)

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6) 4 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, dec. (11)

7)-10) 11 sc. (11)

Cut 12 cm of the copper wire, bend it and wrap it with a fabric tape
as for the right arm. Insert the wire into the doll's palm.

11) inc, 10 sc. (12)

12)-14) 12 sc. (12)

15) sc, inc, 10 sc. (13) - an inc should be located above the pinky

16)-21) 13 sc. (13)

22) 2 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc, (dec, sc)*2. (13) - stuff it

23) 3 sc, dec, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc. (13)

24)-35) 13 sc. (13)

36) 9 sc, sl st, CH. - stuff it

In the row 36 work a few more or less sts to reach the middle of the
armpit (if it is needed), make sl st, CH and cut the thread.

legs
left leg:
Watch the video PART 3: “Left leg”.

Make 5 CH and begin to crochet in the second st from the hook:

1) 3 sc, 3 sc in one st, 3 sc on the other side of the chain. (9)

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2) 4 sc, inc, 4 sc. (10)

3) (inc, 4 sc)*2. (12)

4) inc, 11 sc. (13)

5)-9) 13 sc. (13) - work 1 sc more and then CH and turn

HEEL: 1) 4 sc, CH, turn.

2) 4 sc, CH, turn.
3) 4 sc, turn.

10) sc, dec, sc, 3 sc in the side part of the heel, 7 sc, dec, 3 sc in the
side of the heel. (13) - place the marker

11) 13 sc, dec, 2 sc. (16)

12) 13 sc, dec, sc. (15)

13)-14) 15 sc. (15)

Cut about 25 cm of the wire and uncover it for 4 cm at one end. Bend
this end in half and wrap with a tape. Put the wire inside of the foot
and stuff it.

15) 2 dec, 11 sc. (13)

16) 2 sc, dec, 9 sc. (12)

17) dec, 10 sc. (11) - stuff it

18) 11 sc. (11)

19) sc, inc, 9 sc. (12)

20) - 22) 12 sc. (12) - stuff it

23) 2 sc, inc, 9 sc. (13) - an inc should be located in the back of the leg

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24) - 26) 13 sc. (13)

27) 3 sc, inc, 9 sc. (14) - stuff it

28) 14 sc. (14)

29) 4 sc, inc, 9 sc. (15)

30) 15 sc. (15)

31) 5 sc, inc, 9 sc. (16)

32) - 35) 16 sc. (16)

36) 4 sc, dec, 10 sc. (15) - stuff it

37) 4 sc, dec, 9 sc. (14) - a dec should be located in the back of the
leg

38) 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, (inc, sc)*2. (15) - the knee is marked out with
red color in this row, if it is not in front of the leg, then work some off
set sts

39) (4 sc, inc)*2, 5 sc, (17)

40) 17 sc. (17)

41) 4 sc, inc, 6 sc, (dec, sc)*2. (16)

42) 16 sc. (16)

43) 5 sc, inc, 10 sc. (17) - an inc should be located in the back of
the leg

44) 5 sc, inc, 11 sc. (18)

45) 18 sc. (18)

46) 6 sc, inc, 11 sc. (19)

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47) 19 sc. (19)

48) 6 sc, inc, 12 sc. (20)

49) 20 sc. (20)

50) 7 sc, inc, 12 sc. (21) - stuff it

51) - 61) 21 sc. (21) - stuff it

Work about 16 sts more to reach the middle of the thigh, make sl st,
CH and cut the thread.

right leg:
Watch the video PART 4:”Rright leg”.

Make 5 CH and begin to crochet in the second st from the hook:

1) 3 sc, 3 sc in one st, 3 sc. (9)

2) 4 sc, inc, 4 sc. (10)

3) (inc, 4 sc)*2. (12)

4) inc, 11 sc. (13)

5) - 9) 13 sc. (13) - work 7 sc more and then CH and turn

HEEL: 1) 4 sc, CH, turn.

2) 4 sc, CH, turn.
3) 4 sc, turn.

10) sc, dec, sc, 3 sc in the side of the heel, dec, 7 sc, 3 sc in the
side of the heel. (17) - place the marker

11) 5 sc, dec, 10 sc. (16)

12) 4 sc, dec, 10 sc. (15)

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13) - 14) 15 sc. (15)

Cut about 21 cm of the wire and uncover it for 4 cm at one end. Bend
this end in half and wrap with a tape. Put the wire inside of the foot and
stuff it.

15) 2 dec, 11 sc. (13)

16) 11 sc, dec. (12)

17) sc, dec, 9 sc. (11) - stuff it

18) 11 sc. (11)

19) inc, 10 sc. (12)

20) - 22) 12 sc. (12) - stuff it

23) sc, inc, 10 sc. (13) - an inc should be located in the back of the leg

24) - 26) 13 sc. (13)

27) 2 sc, inc, 10 sc. (14) - stuff it

28) 14 sc. (14)

29) 3 sc, inc, 10 sc. (15)

30) 15 sc. (15)

31) 4 sc, inc, 10 sc. (16)

32) - 35) 16 sc. (16)

36) 5 sc, dec, 9 sc. (15) - stuff it

37) 5 sc, dec, 8 sc. (14) - a dec should be in the back of the

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38) 5 sc, dec, 3 sc, (inc, sc)*2. (15) - work some offset sts (if it will be
needed) to place the knee in the right position

39) 5 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, sc. (17)

40) 17 sc. (17)

41) 6 sc, inc, 4 sc, (dec, sc)*2. (16)

42) 16 sc. (16)

43) 7 sc, inc, 8 sc. (17) - an inc should be in the back of the leg

44) 8 sc, inc, 8 sc. (18)

45) 18 sc. (18)

46) 9 sc, inc, 8 sc. (19)

47) 19 sc. (19)

48) 10 sc, inc, 8 sc. (20)

49) 20 sc. (20)

50) 11 sc, inc, 8 sc. (21) - stuff it

51) - 61) 21 sc. (21)

Work about 4 sts more to reach the middle of the thigh, make sl st,
CH and don’t cut the thread.

body
Watch the video Part 5: “Body”.

Work 4 CH from the right leg, then continue to crochet on the left leg
(starting from the poin, where the row on the left leg ended).

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1) 17 sc, 4 inc in BLO, 4 sc in the chain, 4 inc in BLO, 17 sc, 4 sc in
the chain. (58) - place the marker

2) 58 sc. (58)

3) 17 sc, (inc, sc)*4, 4 sc, (sc, inc)*4, 21 sc. (66)

4) - 6) 66 sc. (66)

7) 10 sc, dec, 38 sc, dec, 14 sc. (64) - a decreases should be on the

sides of the body

8) 64 sc. (64)

9) 25 sc, skip 11 sts, 28 sc. (53) - connect 2 wires from legs with a
tape

10) 16 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 18 sc. (49)

11) 10 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 12 sc. (45)

12) 14 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 16 sc. (41) - stuff it

13) 14 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 16 sc. (39)

14) 39 sc. (39)

15) 14 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 14 sc. (37)

16) - 24) 37 sc. (37)- stuff it

25) 10 sc, inc, 16 sc, inc, 9 sc. (39)

26) 39 sc. (39)

27) 34 sc. (34) - place the marker here

28) inc, 10 sc, inc, 27 sc. (41) - an increases should be in front

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29) - 32) 41 sc. (41)

33) 36 sc, 3 sc (right arm+body), 2 sc. (41)

34) 17 sc, 3 sc (left arm+body), 16 sc, 10 sc in the right shoulder, 2

sc. (48)

35) 17 sc, 10 sc in the left shoulder, 28 sc. (55) - tape the wires
from arms to the wire from the body

36) 47 sc, dec, 6 sc. (54) 37) 21 sc, dec, 31 sc. (53)

38) 45 sc, dec, 6 sc. (52) - stuff it

39) 21 sc, dec, 21 sc, 3 dec, 2 sc. (48)

40) 17 sc, 3 dec, 18 sc, 3 dec, sc. (42)

41) 16 sc, 3 dec, 14 sc, 3 dec. (36)

42) dec, 11 sc, 4 dec, 11 sc, 2 dec. (29) - stuff it

43) dec, 9 sc, 3 dec, 8 sc, 2 dec. (23)

44) dec, 7 sc, 3 dec, 8 sc. (19)

45) 4 sc, dec, 13 sc. (18)

46) - 50) 18 sc. (18) - stuff it

51) 9 dec. (9)

52) - 68) 9 sc. (9)

Cut the thread and close the remaining hole.

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 head
Watch the video PART 6: “Head”.

Work 12 CH, close this chain in the ring with a sl st. Then make 1CH
and begin to crochet:

1)-2) 12 sc, sl st, CH. (12)

3)-4) 12 sc. (12)

5) Work in FLO all this row: (5 inc, 3 sc in one st, 6 inc). (25) - place the
marker

6)5 sc, 3 sc in one st, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, 3 scin one st, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, 3 sc in
one st, 7 sc. (33)

7)(7 sc, 3 sc in one st)*3, 9 sc. (39)

8) (inc, sc)*3, 25 sc, (sc, inc)*3, 2 sc. (45)

9) 45 sc. (45)

10) sc, (inc, 2 sc)*3, 11 sc, dec, 11 sc, (2 sc, inc)*3, 2 sc. (50)

11) (inc, 3 sc)*3, 25 sc, (3 sc, inc)*3, sc. (56)

12) 2 sc, (inc, 3 sc)*2, 17 sc, inc, 17 sc, (3 sc, inc)*2, 3 sc. (61)

13) 61 sc. (61)

14)30 sc, (in one st in BLO: sl st, 3 hdc, sl st), 30 sc. (63) - slip stitches
are not counted in the total amount of sts ( if the nose is not centered,
then work an off set sts)

15)30 sc, skip 1 st of the nose, 1 sc in the nose tip, skip 1 st of the
nose, 30 sc. (61)

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16) 21 sc, 3 dec, 7 sc, 3 dec, 21 sc. (55)

17) (inc, 3 sc)*3, 31 sc, (3 sc, inc)*3. (61)

18) 61 sc. (61)

19) 5 sc, inc, 49 sc, inc, 5 sc. (63)

20) 63 sc. (63)

21)26 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc 25 sc. (65) - increases should be in front of the
head

22) - 28) 65 sc. (65)

29) (dec, 11 sc)*5. (60)

30) (dec, 10 sc)*5. (55)

31) (dec, 9 sc)*5. (50)

32) (dec, 8 sc)*5. (45)

33) (dec, 7 sc)*5. (40)

34) (dec, 6 sc)*5. (35)

35) (dec, 5 sc)*5. (30)

Pull inside of the head the first 4 rows. Put the head on a skewer or a
neck pin and stuff the head tight.

36) (dec, 4 sc)*5. (25)

37) (dec, 3 sc)*5. (20)

38) (dec, 2 sc)*5. (15)

39) (dec, sc)*5. (10) - stuff it

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40) 5 dec. (5)
Cut the thread and close the remaining hole. Put more stuffing into
the cheeks and chin through the neck hole. And if the cheeks look too
puffy, then just squeeze them with your fingers.

face embroidery
materials:
embroidery threads: black, white, brown, dark green, green, light
green.
scissors;
marker for fabric;
needle;
F-6000, B-6000 or Е-6000 adhesive.

Watch the videos PART 7:”Face embroidery”. In those videos you

find how you embroider eyes and eyebrows, and how to crochet lips
and ears.

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EYEBROWS EMBROIDERY SCEMA ↓↓↓

LEFT EAR:1) in MR: sc, 6 dc, sc, CH, turn (8)

2) sl st, 5 sc, 2 sl st, CH, cut the thread. (8)

RIGHT EAR: 1) in MR: sc, 6 dc, sc, CH, turn. (8)

2) 2 sl st, 5 sc, sl st, CH, cut the thread. (8)

Tie the MR and shape the ears with your fingers making them look
like real once. Count 15 sts to the left and to the right from the nose,
and mark out were the ears will be located. Fix the ears with the ends
of threads from ears. Then glue them or sew them to the head to fix
them better.

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 EYELASHES (STEP 1)
materials:
Embroidery threads or sewing threads (the color you want the
doll's eyelashes to be);
Scissors;
Tailor's pins;
Acrylic varnish or PVA glue;
Paint brush (or something other you will use to apply varnish
to the eyelashes);
Stick from a helium pen or a wooden skewer.

Make eyelashes in 2 stages. It is more convenient to perform the

first stage before attaching the hair, the second stage is performed
after attaching the hair.

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 producing AND ATTACHMENT OF THE HAIR
МАТЕРИАЛЫ:
100% acrylic yarn (any brand);
Scissors;
Brush for pets;
Skewer;
Iron for hair;
PVA glue;
F-6000 or В-6000 (В-7000) adhesive.

Watch the videos PART 8:”Hair” to make and attach the hair.

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 eyelashes (step 2)
After attaching the hair, you proceed to the second stage of
creating the eyelashes. Watch the video PART 9: “Eyelashes”.
Take a rod from a helium pen or a wooden skewer. Cut off 2 pieces
of 2 cm. Put these pieces under the eyelashes (this is necessary in
order to give the eyelashes a bend and so that they do not stick to the
head).
Then you take acrylic varnish (or PVA glue) and a brush. When
using a brush, apply varnish to the eyelashes (but not to the entire
length, but only to the one you plan to leave). Soak the lashes at the
base thoroughly. Stretch and secure each lash strand with Tailor's
pins so that the threads do not touch each other, otherwise they may
stick together.
Wait until the eyelashes are completely dry or use a hair dryer.
Then remove all the pins and remove the rollers from under the
lashes. Use scissors to trim off excess lashes. If some eyelashes are
still flattened, then just wind them on a knitting needle or something
like that. If a film of glue remains between the eyelashes, gently
remove it with tweezers.

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 shading
Watch the video PART 10: “Shading”. You can use dry pastel or
blushes. I prefer to use blushed, because they have a low
pigmentation (you can not be afraid to overdo it with tone). And pastel,
in turn, I use for shading the details of clothing, as it has more intense
and persistent shades.

You will also need brushes of different sizes and matte acrylic
varnish to cover the paintings (or PVA glue), to fix the shading.
If you do not plan to varnish your face and body after shading, then
you can apply more pigment. Well, if you use varnish, then the
pigment should be applied less, since it darkens a little from varnish.

I recommend shading the following areas of the face:

· Cheeks;
· Protruding part of the chin;
· Ears;
· Hair growth line;
· Bridge of the nose;
· Under the lower eyelid;
· Over the upper eyelid;
· Above the upper lip;
· Under the lower lip;

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· In the corners of the lips;
· Between the lips (I like to use red pastel);
· Under the nose;
· Under the eyebrows (you can also slightly tint the tip of the eyebrow so
that there is a smooth color transition);
· You can also tint the iris area with a dark color under the upper eyelid,
if suddenly your doll has too wide-open (surprised) eyes.

For the body, I also recommend applying tone, as this will make
the curves of the doll more expressive.

The tone is applied to the following areas:

· Elbows and their bends;
· Brushes;
· Palms;
· Armpits;
· Neck;
· Clavicle;
· Under the breast and between;
· The navel;
· Groin area;
· Buttocks;
· Knees and bend under the knees;
· Ankles;
· Toes.

If you want your doll not to lose its shade (especially if the doll is a
play doll, not an interior doll), then the places where the tone is
applied should be covered with acrylic varnish (or PVA glue with
water).

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 Contact info
Instagram - h ps://www.instagram.com/julja_myzina/
Vkontakte - h ps://vk.com/myzinadolls
Facebook - h ps://www.facebook.com/juljamyzinadolls
E-mail - julja.myzina@gmail.com
WhatsApp - +7 (918) 955-40-24
Website - h ps:// nylovelydolls.company.site/
Etsy - h ps://www.etsy.com/shop/TinyLovelyDolls
YouTube -
h ps://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiEhsYj1BNTSNhLoAffq0
7Q

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