Rita doll by Renata Sarochenko

Master Class
Crochet Crochet Toy
This master class is my personal development, description is
copyright. Distribution of the master class is prohibited. When
demonstrating a finished toy, the author's mention is welcomed.
Dispose of toys you have the right to your own discretion, but
respect the copyright! Author: Renata Sarochenko https://
www.instagram.com/handmade_by_renata/

About the materials.

My doll is crocheted with No1 yarn:
-vita pelican (parts of the wardrobe - panties, boots, turtleneck)
(can be replaced by: "iris" kirovsiky or vita, peshchorka delicate,
dandy (I do not like it, because the thread turns), coco (thread
already thicker)
- Burkina delicate (flesh color) can be replaced by any of the
pre-items or at your discretion)
-Lena from Alpina (jacket)
-Katrin from Alpina color No220 (cap, scarf)
-The cup is tied with spokes No2 (can crochet)
The main thing is that all the yarn in the work was about the
same thickness (except for the cap, the jacket, you can
experiment here)

I use special puppet tresses (on a tape, not with a wig) but can be
replaced with a thread.
- wire for the frame - any that keeps the shape and does not
break from several bends. I use thick copper, or copper in a
rubber braid (sold in construction stores). The diameter is on
average 2 mm, but it is not so important, the main thing that
would hold the shape, does not break, too thin can be twisted
together into a bundle thicker)
- fiberfill for packing
- something hard for the soles - a piece of dense leather, leather,
thick foam or felt. My sole is real, which is used in creating real
shoes.
- embroidery or reel thread for embroidering an eye, a thin
needle with a sharp spout (I use a bead)
- a brown and pink soft pencil for toning the face (softer than
watercolor), or dry pastel or other materials you are familiar
with for toning)
- glue for gluing soles
A needle with a wide eyelet for sewing parts
Elements of decoration at will, I have small beads on pants and a
pendant on the neck

Introduction to the description.

I ask you to read very carefully and refer to this foreword while
you’re making this doll- the nuances of which are written below
are very important!
Since we are knitting in a spiral, the rows have the tendency to
shift in one direction or another, so in the legs, our task is to
closely monitor the center. Each row should start from the
center of the back of the foot! It is very important. Perhaps, for
this, you will have to add additional loops to the offset in some
 rows, or vice versa, not to tie the series to the end, in order to
stick to the center. (I indicated in the description my offset loops
that I did, you may not have them in these rows or there may be
another number of them - I do not know why, but some people
have a different displacement.

Notation:
Ch - chain
Sc - single crochet
Slst - slip stitch
Dec-decrease
inc-increase

Feet.
If you knit with the wrong side (like me), then at first you will
get the right leg, then by the same description, knit the left leg
mirror (ie, each row backwards - be careful, do not get
confused!))) If you knit with usual facial loops, Then
accordingly you will get first left, then right foot.
"Mirror" means that each row for the second leg you are tying
backwards, do not mix it up)) Knit "mirror" the second leg, we
start from 16th. From the 1st to the 15th row inclusive, both legs
knit equally.

1. Ch 8, we knit in a circle, beginning with the 2nd from the

hook (the loop on the hook itself does not count!): inc, 4sc, 4sc
in one chain; On the second side of the chain: 4sc, inc (16)
2. 2inc, 4sc, 4inc, 4sc, 2inc (24)
3. Here we put the marker-thread, it will be more convenient to
track the displacement and the center of knitting. 23sc, 1slst
(done instead of sc in order to level the edge of the part)
4. Back loop only (with front knitting) / front loop only (with the
back knitting) 24sc
5-7. 24 sc (in the 7th row +1 offset loop)
8. 6sc, 5dec, 6sc, 1dec (18)
9. 5sc, 4dec, 5sc (14)
10. 4sc, 3dec, 4sc (11)
11-15. 11sc
16. 2sc, inc, 8sc (12)
17. 12sc
18. 12sc (it is necessary to be displaced to the center of the back
part of the leg).
19. 3sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 2sc (14)

20. 14sc
21. 3sc, 2inc, 8sc, inc (17)
22. 17sc (+1 sc for offset)
23. 17sc
24. 3sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 11sc (19)
25. 19sc
26. 19sc (move to the center +/- 1sc)
27. 4sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 12sc (21) + 1sc for displacement
28-33. 21sc (in the 33rd row + 2sc for displacement to the
center).
34. 4sc, dec, 11sc, dec, 2sc (19)
35-36. 19sc + 1sc for displacement in the center
37. 5sc, dec, 12sc(18)
38. 18sc
39. 3sc, dec, 13sc (17)
40. 17sc
41. 3sc, dec, 12sc (16)
42. 2sc, dec, 12sc (15)
43. 5sc, 4inc (knee), 6sc (19)
44. 6sc, 4dec (knee), 5sc (15)
45 . 15sc
46. 3sc, inc, 11sc (16)
47 . 5sc, inc, 10sc (17)
48. 17sc + 1sc for displacement in the center
49. 4sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 3sc (19)
50. 2 sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 12sc (21)
51. 21 sc + 1sc for displacement
52 . 4sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 9sc, inc, 2sc (24)
53-56. 24sc
57. 4sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 15sc (26)
58-60. 26sc (on row 60 + 2sc for displacement to the center)
61. 3sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 18sc (28)
62. 5 sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 5sc (31)
63-67. 31sc

We knit the second leg the same way, but backwards. Starting
with the 16th row, each row is done in the reverse order.
Depending on your method of knitting (the wrong side or the
front one), the offset loops can be placed differently than for me,
including for the second leg. The main thing is to follow the
center and tie the rows according to the description. Look at the
photo - my thread changes its direction in those rows that are
simply knitted in a circle, but I return it back to the center when
I begin to knit a row with dec / inc. The eyelets of each row
must be considered, because it is very easy to get lost, especially
if you are tying the wrong side out the first time, you will have
to consider carefully in the next part of the description
Binding the second leg, we tie additional sc to the inner side of
the thigh, ch3 and attach to the first leg.
Pay special attention to the following description of the rear,
 rows 69-86. Your knitting should go exactly as described. For
example: in row 69, we first go (3sc, inc) x3, and then (inc, 3sc)
x3. I know that some people always knit first, then inc (or vice
versa), but in this case knitting goes "mirror", i.e. In the reverse
order, so we knit in exactly the same order as indicated in the
diagram, it is important to ensure that in the end all the bulges
are in place.
68. 31sc (first leg), 3sc (along the chain), 31sc (second leg), 2sc
along the chain. ATTENTION: here we put a marker, 1 sc this
row, what we did not bind will go already to the next row. (67)
69. (3sc, inc) x3, 42 sc, (inc, 3sc) x3, 1sc (73)
70. (3sc, inc) х3, 47sc, (inc, 3sc) х3, 1 dec. Instead of the
standard dec, we make the connection by skipping the previous
loop. (78)
71. (2sc, inc) x4, 52sc, (inc, 2sc) x4, dec (85)
72-73. 85sc
74 . 20sc, (dec, 2sc) x3, 21 sc, (2sc, dec) x3, 20sc (79)
75. (2sc, dec) x4, 47sc, (dec, 2sc) x4 (71)
76. 71sc (+ 1sc for displacement to the center) we move the
marker here, now the beginning of the row will be here
77. (dec, 1sc)х4, 47sc, (1sc, dec)х4 (63)
78. (dec, 1sc) x4, 39sc, (1sc, dec) x4 (55)
79. 11sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 19sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 11sc (51)
80. 10sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 19sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 10sc (47)
81. dec, 45sc (46)
82. 10sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 10sc (42)
83. 16sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 16sc (40)
84-85. 40sc
86. 8sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 8sc (36)
87. 36sc
88-91. 36sc
92. Chang color. 36sc for rear half loops with front knitting /
behind the front (those that are inside the part) half loops with
the back knitting

93.36 sc
94. 7sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 14sc, P, 2sc, inc, 7sc (40)
95. 40sc
96-100. 40sc (in the 100th row + 2sc for offset), it is very
important to correctly track the center of the rear of the part - it
is from the center of the back that dec/inc should begin.
101. 13sc, 5inc, 4sc, 5inc, 13sc (50)
102. 18sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 18sc (52)
103-106. 52sc
107. 18 sc, dec, 12sc, dec, 18sc (50)
108. 17sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 17sc (46)
109.46 sc
110. 18sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 18sc (44)
111. 18sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 18sc (42)
112. (5sc, dec) X6 (36)
113. (4sc, dec) х6 (30)
114. (3sc, dec) х6 (24)
Start stuffing.
115. (2sc, dec) х6 (18)
116. (1sc, dec) x6 (12)
Complete the stuffing.
117-121. 12sc
Bind off. (My version - a head not attached it is more convenient
to embroider a little face than on a whole doll. )
Hands (both knit equally)
1. 6sc, in magic ring
2. 6inc (12)
3-7. 12sc
8. (2dec, 2sc) x2 (8)
9. (Color change) 8sc
10-14. 8sc
15. inc, 7sc (9)
16. 9sc
17. inc, 8 sc (10)
18. 10sc
19. inc, 9 sc (11)
20. 11sc
21. inc, 10 sc (12)
22-25. 12sc
26. 6sc, 4inc, 2sc (16)
27. 6 sc, 4dec, 2 sc (12)
28-44. 12sc
The number of rows vary depending on the length (it depends on
your yarn and your knitting gauge)

Head
1. 6sc in magic ring
2. 6inc (12)
3. (1 sc, inc) × 6 (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) × 6 (24)
5. (3sc, inc) × 6 (30)
6. (4sc, inc) × 6 (36)
7. (5 sc, inc) × 6 (42)
You can do another one or two rows with the increases, if you
want a bigger head.
8-17. 42sc
18. (5sc, dec) x 6 (36)
19. (4 sc, dec) × 6 (30)
20. (3sc, dec) × 6 (24)
21. (2sc, dec) x 6 (18)
22. (1sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Bind off and leave the end for sewing. Stuff the head tightly
giving the shape of a smooth ball, DONT sew the hole.

Ears (optional):
1. 6sc in magic ring. Tighten, but do not close in the ring, turn
 your work
Bind off, leave the end for sewing.

Time to attach the hands.

I took about 18-20 cm of wire on my hands (this should be tried
on already knitted arms), whose edges I bend into the stitches as
well as in the legs and wrap it tightly with scotch tape. BUT -
attention, do not bend both eyes at once, leave one side of the
wire straight for insertion into the body.
I loosen the loops with a spoke or a straight part of the metal
hook (see photo opposite the post) between 112 and 113 rows,
slightly widening the holes (make sure that they are parallel to
each other) and insert a wire in them, I sew in a circle. I do not
stuff the arms.
 SHOES:
We cut out the sole in the shape of the legs and stick it tightly to
the foot. I do this with the help of a hot glue (gun), it it is
necessary to work very carefully. The sole should be glued
tightly, especially at the edges, this will give the leg shape and
stability.
 My doll’s hat is done with thread size two (you will need to
calculate your number of loops, because the size will depend on
the size of the head, and the hair (there will be more volume
with the thread)
A scarf is a chain of 72in, and followed by 1 row of double
crochet.
 Sweater:
Consists of 3 parts: a back and two sleeves, in a waffle pattern.
On my back I chained 32, on the sleeves I chained 16. We knit a
"waffle" pattern (you can do any other pattern) starting from
below and up to the underarms of the doll. This part can be any
length, according to your desire. When the length suits us, we
begin to knit the sleeves (more precisely the halves of the
sleeves (see photo). For one sleeve we need a chain of 22 + 3
lifts (for the back, accordingly there will be 2 chains of 22 + 3
lifts, along the edges of the fabric, for the second Chains just put
the marker in the right place and do the chains)
Having done a chain, we knit a series of double crochet,
returning to the main canvas (see photo). The next 3 rows will
follow the figure.
The resulting three details are stitched together on each side
(sleeves and main fabric) and on the shoulders:
Waffle pattern: