«SANTA MUERTE»
CROCHET DOLL PATTERN
                            AUTHOR: JULIA MYAZINA
THIS IS A FREE PATTERN AND IT CAN BE SPREAD IN ANY SOCIAL MEDIA, BUT WITH CREDITS TO THE AUTHOR
CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS:
MR – magic/amigurumi ring;
CH – chain;
SC - single crochet;
DC - double crochet;
HDC - half double crochet;
INC - increase;
DEC – decrease (I use invisible decreases);
SLST – slip stitch;
FLO - front half loop (half loop closest to you);
BLO - back half loop (half loop farthest from you)
materials:
   “PEHORKA Openwork” yarn color #68 and #1 (50gm / 280m) or
similar;
   electric wire or copper wire size 1,5 mm - 17 cm;
   scissors, needle;
   beads size 6 mm - 2 pcs, 5 mm - 2 pcs;
   hook 0,6 mm;
   fabric tape;
   stuffing;
   wooden stick (to use it for stuffing);
   dry pastel.
                                                               2
                               attention!!!
  All crochet takes place on the wrong side in spiral, so the doll will come out
 neater, especially face (if you do not know how to crochet on the wrong side,
When crocheting with the listed materials, you will get the doll about 28 cm high.
   Use thicker or thinner materials if you want to change the size of the doll.
     In the process of crocheting, you may be faced with the fact, that the
   paired parts of the doll (legs, arms) could differ in lengths or thicknesses.
   This is due to the fact, that on different days or even within the same day,
     the thread tension in your hands changes. So, I advise you to crochet
       two paired parts of the doll in parallel (i.e. crochet several rows of
      one leg, then set it aside and crochet several rows of the other leg).
         In this pattern, I crochet with the so-called "check marks". This
           crocheting comes out less dense. There is also crocheting
         with "crosses", it comes out denser, but, for example, it will be
                         very difficult to embroider a face.
         If during crocheting your doll knees (or nose for example) will be
      in the wrong place, that means you should work a few offset stitches
         to place the knees in the right position. After that you just finish
       the row following the pattern, place the marker in the new position
       and continue to crochet “as nothing happen”. That is fine, because
                             we all crochet differently.
   I also want to warn you, that for some artists while crocheting, the marker
       thread goes straight up and for others it goes to the left slightly and
  thas is ok. This is affected by the way the thread is picked up with hook, the
 density of stitches, stuffing, etc. Therefore, in some key places in this pattern,
    I have placed the notes, which will help to track the shifts. In such cases,
     you just make the required number of offset sts, place dec / inc of this
   row to the right position, crochet the row till the end, as it is written in the
        pattern, place the marker and continue to crochet according to the
                        pattern, as if there were no extra sts.
                                                                                   3
                                  ARMS
RIGHT ARM:
  Watch this video to learn how to make the doll hand and the forearm
--> https://disk.yandex.ru/i/-dbjNvwp506JuQ
PINKY: 6 CH, 5 slst in the back side of the chain.
RING FINGER: 7 CH, 6 slst in the back side of the chain.
MIDDLE FINGER: 7 CH, 6 slst in the back side of the chain.
INDEX FINGER: 7 CH, 6 slst in the back side of the chain.
1) on one side of fingers: sc, 2 inc, sc, on the other side: 4 sc. (10)
2) 10 sc. (10)
3) sc, (6 CH, 5 slst in the chain), 9 sc. (10)
4) sc, 2 sc in the thumb, 9 sc. (12)
5) 6 sc, dec, 4 sc. (11)
6) 4 sc together, sc, 3 sc together, 3 sc. (6) - how
to work sts together is shown in the picture to
the right
  Work 2 sc more after the 6th row. Then count 3 sts back and insert
the hook into the 3rd stitch (as shown in the picture below).
                                                                         4
 Then we continue to work in spiral using only those 3 stitches.
BONE:
1) - 14) 3 sc. (3) - cut off the thread
   After that attach the thread near the first bone and make the
second bone the same way.
SHOULDER:
1) MR 7 sc. (7)
2) - 17) 7 sc. (7) - cut off the thread
 Stuff the shoulder. Connect the forearm and the shoulder with 0,5
mm bead.
                                                                     5
LEFT:
INDEX FINGER: 7 CH, 6 slst in the chain.
MIDDLE FINGER: 7 CH, 6 slst in the chain.
RING FINGER: 7 CH, 6 slst in the chain.
PINKY: 6 CH, 5 slst in the chain.
1) on one side of fingers: sc, 2 inc, sc, on the other side: 4 sc. (10)
2) 10 sc. (10)
3) 5 sc, (6 CH, 5 slst in the chain), 5 sc. (10)
4) 5 sc, 2 sc in the thumb, 5 sc. (12)
5) dec, 9 sc. - there is 1 last stitch in this row, which we haven’t
worked, it’ll be the new beginning stitch for the next row
6) 3 sc together, sc, 4 sc together, 3 sc. (6)
 Work 2 sc more after the 6th row. Then count 3 sts back and insert
the hook into the 3rd stitch. Make one bone and then the second bone
as you did before for the right arm.
  Make the shoulder using the pattern below. Connect the two part of
the arm together with bead.
                                                                         6
                                   HEAD
  Continue to work the wrong side out in spiral. Work CH 9, connect
the chain into a ring with stst:
1) - 3) 9 sc. (9)
4) in FLO all this row: 4 inc, 3 sc in one st, 4 inc. (19)
5) (4 sc, 3 sc in one st)*3, 4 sc. (25)
6) 5 sc, 3 sc in one st, (6 sc, 3 sc in one st)*2, 5 sc. (31)
7) 6 sc, 3 sc in one st, (8 sc, 3 sc in one st)*2, 6 sc. (37)
8) inc, sc, inc, 32 sc, inc, sc. (40)
9) sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 32 sc, inc, 2 sc. (43)
10) 43 sc. (43)
11) sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 32 sc, inc, 3 sc. (46)
12) 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 33 sc, inc, 2 sc. (49)
13) 49 sc. (49)
14) 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 5 sc, dec, 4 inc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 4 inc, dec, 5 sc,
inc, 3 sc. (56)
15) 56 sc. (56)
16) 21 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, 15 sc. (54)
17) - 19) 54 sc. (54)
20) 30 sc, inc, 23 sc. (55)
21) - 24) 55 sc. (55)
25) (dec, 9 sc)*5. (50)
26) 50 sc. (50)
                                                                                 7
27) (dec, 8 sc)*5. (45)
28) (dec, 7 sc)*5. (40)
29) (dec, 6 sc)*5. (35)
30) (dec, 5 sc)*5. (30)
 Tuck inside the head the first 3 rows. Stuff it.
31) (dec, 4 sc)*5. (25)
32) (dec, 3 sc)*5. (20)
33) (dec, 2 sc)*5. (15)
34) (dec, sc)*5. (10) - stuff it
35) 5 dec. (5) - cut off the thread
                                                   8
                             Face and hair
MATERIALS:
   «PEHORKA colored lace» crochet threads, 50g/475m, color №2,
09, 05, 49;
  «PEHORKA new kid’s» threads, 50g/200m, black color;
   marker for fabric;
   needle, scissors.
EYES:
 Start with black thread first.
1) MR 6 sc, slst,CH. (6)
2) 6 inc, slst, CH. (12)
3) (sc, inc)*6, slst. (18)
 Change the thread color to blue.
4) (3 CH, slst)*18. - cut off the thread
NOSE:
  With black thread: (3 CH, 2 slst in the chain), (3 CH, 2 slst in the
chain), dec in the base.
                                                                         9
1       2
            10
 PART 1:
  Work with oink thread: (3 CH, sc, hdc in the chain), (3 CH, sc, hdc in
the chain), dec in the base, обвязать деталь соединительными
столбиками по периметру.
PART 2 (2 pcs):
  Work with light green thread: (6 CH, 2 slst in the chain), (5 CH, 2 slst
in the chain)*2, (6 CH, 3 slst in the chain), then continue on the other
side: (3 CH, 2 slst in the chain), 4 slst in the base, (3 CH, 2 slst in the
chain), 3 slst in the base, (3 CH, 2 slst in the chain), 2 slst in the base.
                             PART 2 pattern
                                                                               11
  Sew on all the parts to the head. Make an eyelashes and a mouth
using black PEHORKA colored lace thread.
 Draw the hair line with marker for fabric on the doll’s head.
                                                                    12
  Cut “PEHORKA new kid’s” into pieces 30 cm long for your doll hair.
Thread the needle with black thread. Output the needle with black
thread to the back on the hair line. Attach the thread-hair as shown in
the pictures below.                  2
   Pull the needle through the middle of the thread piece (hair), it’s
shown in the pic.1. Output the needle through the same hole between
the stitches on the doll’s head and withdraw the need 2 sts to the left
(pics 2-3). When you’ll finish the hair line, continue to attach the hair
in rows (it should be 3 sts between each row).
                                      4
3
                                                                           13
                                      LEGS
  Continue to work the wrong side out. Use the same white thread as
you used for arms and head. The doll toes are made the same way as
the doll fingers.
LEFT:
TOE 1: 5 CH, 4 sc in the chain;
TOE 2: 5 CH, 4 sc in the chain;
TOE 3: 4 CH, 3 sc in the chain
TOE 4: 4 CH, 3 sc in the chain
TOE 5: 3 CH, 2 sc in the chain
1) 5 sc on one side of the chain, on the other side: (sc, inc)*2, sc. (12)
2) - 4) 12 sc. (12)
5) 2 sc, dec, 8 sc. (11)
6) 2 sc, 4 sc in one st, 8 sc. (14)
                                                                             14
7) 3 sc, 2 dec, 9 sc. (14)
8) - 9) 16 sc. (16)
10) 3 sc, 2 dec, 9 sc. (14)
11) 2 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc. (12)
12) 3 dec, 6 sc. (9)
13) sc, dec, 6 sc. (8)
  After the 13th row work 1 sc more. Then act the same wwway as for
the arm bones. Count 3 sts from the hook and insert the hook into the
3rd st (see the pic below) and make the first bone.
BONE 1:
1) - 21) 3 sc. (3) - cut off the thread
                                                                        15
  Attach the thread near the first bone and make the second one. .
BONE 2:
1) - 4) 5 sc. (5)
5) dec, 3 sc. (4)
6) - 15) 4 sc. (4)
16) inc, 3 sc. (5)
17) - 21) 5 sc. (5) - cut off the thread
                                                                    16
THIGH BONE:
 Work CH 9, close the chain into a ring with slst, then continue to work
in spiral the wrong side out.
1) - 9) 9 sc, slst, CH. (9)
10) dec, 7 sc, slst, CH. (8)
11) - 24) 8 sc, slst, CH. (8) - cut off the thread (leave a small piece of
thread to tie the bead)
  Connect the thigh bone and the shin bone together with bead. Stuff
the thigh.
                                                                             17
RIGHT:
TOE 1: 3 CH, 2 sc in the chain;
TOE 2: 4 CH, 3 sc in the chain;
TOE 3: 4 CH, 3 sc in the chain;
TOE 4: 5 CH, 4 sc in the chain;
TOE 5: 5 CH, 4 sc in the chain.
1) 5 sc on one side of the chain, on the other side: (sc, inc)*2, sc. (12)
2) - 4) 12 sc. (12)
5) 2 sc, dec, 8 sc. (11)
6) 2 sc, 4 sc in one st, 8 sc. (14)
7) 3 sc, 2 dec, 9 sc. (14)
8) - 9) 16 sc. (16)
10) 3 sc, 2 dec, 9 sc. (14)
11) 2 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc. (12)
12) 3 dec, 6 sc. (9)
13) dec, 7 sc. (8)
  After the 13th row work 5 sc more. Then do the same as for the left
leg. Count 3 sts from the hook, insert the hook in the 3rd and make
the BONE 1 (the pattern was given above). Then make the BONE 2
and the THIGH BONE. Connect the cones together with bead. Stuff the
thigh.
                                                                             18
   You can decorate the beads with ribbons. Just pull the ribbons
through the holes in the beads and tie them in the back of the legs.
                                                                       19
                                  TORSO
 There will be 2 parts for torso - the bottom one and the chest. Work
CH 22, then in the 2nd st from the hook (we work in spiral the wrong
side out):
1) 21 sc on one side of the chain, down the other side of the chain: 3
sc, 5 inc, 5 sc, 5 inc, 3 sc. (52) - place the marker
2) 25 sc, (inc, 2 sc)*3, 5 sc in one st, (2 sc, inc)*3, 4 sc. (54)
3) 26 sc, (inc, 3 sc)*2, inc, 5 sc together, inc, (3 sc, inc)*2, 5 sc. (56)
4) 37 sc, 3 sc together, 16 sc. (54)
5) 31 sc, inc, 4 sc, 3 sc together, 4 sc, inc, 10 sc. (54)
6) 36 sc, 3 sc together, 15 sc. (52)
7) 35 sc, 3 sc together, 14 sc. (50)
8) 34 sc, 3 sc together, 13 sc. (48)
9) 33 sc, 3 sc together, 12 sc. (46)
10) 32 sc, 3 sc together, 11 sc. (44)
11) 11 sc, 3 sc together, 10 sc. (42)
12) - 13) 42 sc. (42)
14) 40 sc, dec. (41)
15) 4 dec, 7 sc, 5 dec, 12 sc, 2 dec. (30)
16) 3 dec, 3 sc, 5 dec, 5 sc, 3 dec. (19)
17) 2 dec, 2 sc, 5 dec, 4 sc. (12)
18) in BLO: 12 sc. (12)
19) 12 sc. (12)
  Cut about 17 cm of the wire, bend it at one end for 1 cm. Wrap the
bended end of the wire with fabric plaster. Place the wire inside the
doll body. Stuff the body.
                                                                              20
20) in FLO: (2 sc, dec, 8 sc). (11)
21) 11 sc. (11)
22) in FLO: (sc, dec, 8 sc). (10)
23) 10 sc. (10)
24) in FLO: (sc, dec, 7 sc). (9)
25) 9 sc. (9)
26) in FLO: 9 sc. (9)
27) 9 sc. (9) - cut off the thread, stuff the spine
                                                      21
  After that we make the chest (those 2 parts will be sewed up later).
Work CH 34, then in the 2nd st from the hook (we continue to work
the wrong side out and in spiral):
1) on one side of the chain: 2 slst, 3 sc, 4 hdc, 3 sc, 9 slst, 3 sc, 4 hdc,
3 sc, 2 slst, on the other side of the chain: 2 slst, 3 sc, 4 hdc, 3 sc, 9
slst, 3 sc, 4 hdc, 3 sc, 2 slst. (66)
2) 2 slst, 3 sc, 4 hdc, 3 sc, 9 slst, 3 sc, 4 hdc, 3 sc, slst, inc, 2 slst, 3 sc,
4 hdc, 3 sc, 9 slst, 3 sc, 4 hdc, 3 sc, slst, inc. (68)
3) 5 sc, hdc, 2 hdc in one st, 2 hdc, 4 sc, 7 slst, 4 sc, 2 hdc, 2 hdc in
one st, hdc, 11 sc, hdc, 2 hdc together, hdc, 4 sc, 7 slst, 4 sc, hdc, 2
hdc together, hdc, 6 sc. (68)
4) 5 sc, 5 hdc, 4 sc, 7 slst, 4 sc, 5 hdc, 5 sc, inc, 5 sc, 2 hdc together,
hdc, sc, dec, sc, 7 slst, sc, dec, sc, hdc, 2 hdc together, 5 sc, inc. (66)
5) 15 sc, 5 slst, 20 sc, (dec, 2 сб)*2, 5 slst, (2с бн, dec)*2, 5 sc. (62)
6) 7 sc, inc, 7 sc, 5 slst, (7 sc, inc)*2, 3 sc, (dec, sc)*3, skip 1 st, (sc,
dec)*3, 3 sc, inc. (59)
7) 17 sc, 3 slst, 18 sc, inc, 2 sc, (dec, sc)*4, dec, 2 sc, inc, sc. (56)
8) 38 sc, inc, 2 sc, (dec, sc)*3, dec, 2 sc, inc, sc. (54)
                                                                                    22
  Then count 4 sts from the end of the last row (it is shown with red
circles in the picture below), then count 9 sts after those 4 sts
(those 9 sts are indicated with blue circles in the picture). Sew those
9 sts together. So as the result there have to stay only 45 sts.
                             45 stitches
                                                                          23
 Sew the two part of the doll body together. Pull the wire between the
stitches. The spine should be closer to the back, as you can see in the
second picture below.
                                                                          24
 Continue to work the chest rows:
9) 45 sc. (45)
10) sc, dec, 32 sc, dec, 8 sc. (43)
11) - 12) 43 sc. (43)
13) sc, dec, 30 sc, dec, 8 sc. (41)
14) 41 sc. (41)
15) sc, dec, 28 sc, dec, 8 sc. (39)
16) 8 sc, 10 CH, 16 sc, 10 CH, 15 sc. (39)
17)sc, dec, 5 sc, 10 sc in the chain, 16 sc, 10 sc in the chain, 5 sc,
dec, 8 sc. (57)
18)sc, dec, 44 sc, dec, 8 sc. (55)
19) 5 sc, 5 dec, 18 sc, 5 dec, 12 sc. (45)
20) 3 sc, 5 dec, 12 sc, 5 dec, 10 sc. (35)
21) 5 dec, 8 sc, 5 dec, 4 sc, dec. (24)
                                                                         25
22)4 dec, 3 sc, 5 dec, sc, dec. (14)
23)2 dec, 3 sc, 3 dec, sc. (9)
 Stuff the chest. But leave the bottom of the ribs hollow.
24) - 28) in FLO: 9 sc. (9)
29) (dec, sc)*3. (6)
30) - 59) 6 sc. (6) - 90 sts total, cut off the thread, close the hole
 The shoulder holes have to be sewed up with the arms.
                                                                         26
  Sew the arms and the legs to the doll body. Sculpt the doll body with
white thread (I just tried to show you how I did the rids sculpting and
that’s why I used black thread in the picture). We sculpt the same way
the bottom and the clavicles.
 Only after that you can proceed to shading. Use dry pastel chalk
powder for it. I use the scissors blade to scrub the pastel chalk first
and the I use a flat paint brush to apply that powder on the doll’s body.
   On the next 2 pages you’ll find the doll’s pictures (front and back
views). Pay attention to the zones where the shading was made, it
might help you to see where all the sculpting stitches were made.
   Use PVA glue on the doll’s fingers and toes, it’ll help them not to
scroll and hold the shape. Squeeze each of the finger and the toe
(before the glue dried out) with twiners to give them nice and neat
look.
                                                                           27
28
29
                      DRESS, CANDLE, FLOWER
MATERIALS:
   tulle of black and blur colors, tulle width - 15 cm;
   scissors, needle;
   «PEHORKA colored lace», 50g/475m, color №01, 02, 06;
   hook 0,6 mm.
  CANDLE:
  Work with white and the wrong side out:
1) MR 6 sc , slst, CH. (6)
2) in FLO: 6 sc, slst, CH. (6)
3) - 11) 6 sc, slst, CH. (6)
  Then use red thread to make a flame:
1) MR 6 sc, slst, CH. (6)
2) 6 sc, slst, CH. (6)
3) 3 dec, slst. (3)
                                                          30
CANDLESTICK:
 Use black thread for it. Work the wrong side out:
1) MR 6 sc, slst, CH. (6)
2) in FLO: 6 sc, slst, CH. (6)
3) - 8) 6 sc, slst, CH. (6)
9) in BLO: 6 inc. (12)
10) (inc, sc)*6. (18)
11) (inc, 2 sc)*6. (24) - cut off the thread
 Sew all the part together. You can also shade the tip of the flame
with yellow pastel.
FLOWER:
  Work with red thread, turn in the end of each row. Work CH 40, then
in hte 2nd st from the hook you begin to work the pattern below in the
picture (repeat the combination till the end of the chain):
                                                                         31
  As the result you’ll get the long crochet ribbon of petals. Roll it and
make a few stitches at the base to secure it. That’s how we get out
flower.
  You can attach this flower to a wire to make something like a hair
band or just sew on this flower right to the doll’s head. Make a bun on
the doll’s head and secure the hair with thread and needle.
DRESS:
  Cut 2 pieces of black and 2 pieces of blue tulle. Those pieses have
to be 60x7.5 cm each (so if you have a tulle width 15 cm, then you just
cut the piece of tulle 60 cm long and then cut it into 2 pieces).
 Fold each piece in half (you’ll get the stripes 60 cm long an 3.25 cm
wide). Secure the folds of tulle with help of needle and thread (you
should stitch along the bended side of tulle). Then repeat it for the
rest of the stripes and sew together one black and one blue tulle
parts.
                                3 cm
                                                                            32
 Then cut 4 pieces of tulle 15x15 cm each. Put one piece of tulle over
another one (pic 1) and tie them together in the middle (pic 2).
                1
 Sew on the first part to it.
                                                                         33
  Now we proceed to the skirt of our doll dress. Cut 2 pieces of tulle
(one black and one blue). Those pieces have to be about 15x4 cm.
These stripes will become a base (tie) for your doll skirts.
 Cut 2 pieces of tulle (one black and one blue), 170x15 cm each. Cut
into smaller stripes those pieces of tulle. Each stripe have to be like 3-
4 cm wide and 15 cm long.
   After that you can assemble your “TU-TU” skirt. If you’re not used to
that type of skirts, then just watch any video online to learn. We make
black and blue skirts separately. Trim the black skirt to 5.5 cm and
the blue one have to be about 7.5 cm long.
  Then sew on the black skirt over the blue one. You’ll get one fluffy
skirt as the result.
                                                                             34
  Sew on the upper part to the skirt and that’s it. You can decorate
the dress as you wish.
                                                                       35
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                 CONTACT INFO
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Vkontakte - h ps://vk.com/myzinadolls
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