Fall 2008 Natural Farmer
Fall 2008 Natural Farmer
 
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Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 7
by Steve Gilman
NOFA Interstate Council Policy Coordinator
Theres nothing like a southerly trip to put our 
northeastern summer bouts of heat and humidity in 
perspective. For me, July in Washington, DC was 
just plain hot and humid, although the residents 
were shrugging it off -- while bracing for the real 
stuff that they say hits hard in August  and its 
no wonder our legislators vacate and head for the 
homeland. Suitably, there were ample hot topics as 
well for the back-to-back National Organic Action 
Plan (NOAP) and National Organic Coalition 
(NOC) meetings we came to town for.
Although the member organizations of the National 
Organic Coalition are from far-fung locations in 
the South, North and Midwest, DC is an appropriate 
central meeting place. In addition to being the seat 
of government  its the home base of the Center 
for Food Safety, Food and Water Watch, Beyond 
Pesticides and Union of Concerned Scientists 
as well as NOCs Congressional representative 
working on the Hill. The other attending NOC 
members from the hinterlands represented 
NOFA, MOFGA in Maine, Midwest Organic 
and Sustainable Education Services (MOSES) in 
Minnesota, Northeast Organic Dairy Producers 
Alliance (NODPA) and Equal Exchange in 
Massachusetts, Rural Advancement Foundation 
International (RAFI) in North Carolina and the 
National Cooperative Grocers Association in 
Iowa. New York Stater Liana Hoodes, formerly 
a coordinator for the National Campaign for 
Sustainable Agricultures Organic Committee is 
employed as sole part-time staff. 
NOAP
The two days of meetings were held in the newly 
appointed, well air-conditioned offces of the Union 
of Concerned Scientists on K Street. The frst day, 
July 16
th
 was devoted to NOAP  a RAFI-led project 
headed up by Michael Sligh that had its road tour 
launch at the 2006 NOFA Summer Conference 
and has been roaming the country for the past 2 
years. Its mission has been to gather input from 
the grassroots organic community  farmers, 
producers, consumers, trade, urban and rural groups, 
and industry  giving everyone an opportunity to 
articulate their vision for the future of organic food 
and farming over the coming decades. Additional 
participants came in for the NOAP meeting, 
including reps from the Southeast African American 
Farmers Organic Network (SAAFON); the Organic 
Farming Research Foundation (OFRF) and the 
Sustainable Agriculture Coalition (SAC) while 
NOFAs Elizabeth Henderson, a primary NOAP 
organizer, few in from the farm just for the day. 
In addition to the job of collating all the input from 
the listening sessions held at eleven sites across the 
U.S., the main task now for NOAP is to put together 
a 2 day Summit conference to be held February 
25-26 2009 just prior to the 20
th
 Midwest MOSES 
Organic Farming Conference (the largest organic 
gathering in the country with over 2400 participants 
last February.) The purpose of the Summit is to 
coalesce a broad set of goals derived from the 
grassroots input and to identify mechanisms for 
meeting those goals, along with setting benchmarks 
for evaluating them. Based on an Organic Action 
Plan process that has been already well-developed 
in European Countries, NOAP seeks to develop 
governmental and non-governmental goals as to 
where organic should go and how to get there, 
using such benchmarks as increases in the number 
of organic farmers, acreage, sales, and ability of 
domestic producers to supply domestic markets to 
help gauge progress.
NOAP is further committed to fnding resources to 
help fund grassroots participation scholarships for 
the 2009 Summit. The outreach and recruitment 
efforts include providing written fund-raising 
Hotter than DC in July:
NOFA Policy Report
materials and working with regional and national 
organizations to connect with a list of potential 
funders and building capacity by establishing 
more collaborative funding relationships. The 
Summit process aims to further engage the organic 
community with a re-evaluation in 2011 while 
keeping an eye toward major policy modifcations in 
the 2012 farm Bill.
The NOAP Summit has set a target of bringing in 
200 attendees from grassroots organizations around 
the country, including someone from each of the 
NOFA chapters. The Summit organizers are also in 
the process of completing a Draft Plan derived from 
the listening sessions that will be sent out for review 
by the participants prior to the gathering with the 
intention of honing it into a fnal document over the 
two day meeting. Planning-wise, February is right 
around the corner. Midst the sweltering DC heat, 
some meeting attendees almost longingly recalled 
being snowed in for days at a previous wintertime 
meeting in LaCrosse -- and advised participants 
to make air travel plans through Milwaukee, not 
Chicago.
NOC Meeting
Day Two was set aside for the National Organic 
Coalition meeting, and despite building in a 
working lunch, the Agenda seemed full enough for 
several days work. NOC also meets via regularly 
scheduled monthly conference calls and had sent 
out homework before the meeting so participants 
would be prepared to address pressing questions. 
The coalition members were joined by Emily Brown 
Rosen, Jim Riddle and Roger Blobaum   highly 
experienced organic specialists who serve as NOC 
advisers on various initiatives. And legislative 
coordinator, Steve Etka, came with binder-sized 
handbooks analyzing the wins, losses and draws 
of the NOC organic initiatives in the recently 
completed Farm Bill.
A presentation by the membership committee 
started the day. NOC is a looking to expand, but 
is concerned with keeping its core values and 
quick-response abilities intact. Discussion included 
defning membership parameters and looking into 
creating a second tier NOC network  an affliate 
membership that could bring in a greater number 
of participants, with decisions still in the hands of 
the Board  but further development and resolution 
of this issue was charted for further discussion. 
The committee was also charged with developing 
membership qualifcations and recruitment criteria 
for the next meeting in December.
NOC has also taken over the important function 
of hosting the members of the organic community 
attending the National Organic Standards Board 
(NOSB) meetings that used to be handled by 
the now moribund National Campaign Organic 
Committee. In addition to providing participants an 
opportunity to coordinate meeting testimony and 
strategy it is an invaluable networking occasion, as 
people come from all over the country. 
Implementation time
After the group reviewed the draft budget-in-
progress, our Washington representative Steve Etka 
handed out the hefty Farm Bill handbooks. After 
three years of work (the scorecard of the NOC 
initiatives is nicely laid out at the NOC website at 
http://www.nationalorganiccoalition.org) the next 
critical step is implementation  making sure the 
monies are handled in accord with the legislation 
and the stated initiatives are indeed realized. Cost 
Share provisions for covering the government 
mandated certifcation costs was a big win, for 
example, with a total of $32 million designated to 
compensate eligible small scale farmers around 
the country. Some funding is already being 
distributed with the remainder by September  but 
implementation details such as who is the receiver 
in each state and the National Organic Programs 
(NOP) ability to execute the program still have to be 
worked out.
Steve walked the group through each of the 10 
initiatives in the Implementation Handbook. Each 
initiative consisted of sub sections that presented 
the NOC Farm Bill request; the outcome success 
level (win, lose, or draw); pertinent legislative 
language; Conference committee report language; 
implementation actions so far and timing parameters 
for further implementation action. Steves analysis 
also included a section on unresolved questions and 
additional action items needed for follow up.
As outlined on the website -- in the win category is 
Organic Cost Share; the Conservation Stewardship 
Program, the Organic Research and Extension 
Initiative and Organic Data Collection and 
Analysis. The partial win category includes Organic 
Conversion Assistance; Classical Plant and Animal 
Breeding (i.e. non-GMOs and cloning) and Organic 
Crop Insurance. In the lose (with caveats) category 
are GMO Liability and Competitive Markets in 
Organics. NOC also worked on numerous other 
Farm Bill issues as they came up in conjunction 
with other sustainable agriculture groups. The 
legislative task is now to ride herd on the rule 
making process through conference calls with 
pertinent parties to infuence the fnal language and 
implementation process. 
Further, while some Farm Bill programs are 
protected by the security of mandated funding, 
others have to go through the Appropriations 
process in Congress every year  and the allocated 
dollars arent necessarily there to support them 
when powerful interests step in for a bigger piece 
of the pie. Subject to Appropriations for the 2009 
fscal year are increased funding for the NOP; the 
organic data collection and analysis; the organic 
transition program; the SARE and ATTRA programs 
and classical plant and animal breeding and these all 
require further support to shepherd them through the 
process.
Other issues on the NOC legislative priority list 
are producing materials for the transitioning 
administration in this election year and pushing for a 
Pasture rule before years end. NOC is also looking 
to impact the congressional Climate Change and 
Energy debates and legislation. Meanwhile its not 
too soon to start building initiatives to go into the 
2012 Farm Bill.
The ongoing NOC agenda also includes riding 
herd on the National Organic Program (NOP) and 
the NOSB, as well as the current, non-transparent 
process by which the NOSB members are appointed 
by the Secretary of Agriculture. In particular, 
NOC is pushing for a valid complaint and tracking 
process at the NOP to make what goes in and out of 
USDA completely transparent along with clarifying 
their Byzantine accreditation enforcement decisions. 
NOC also underscored the recent outcome of the 
International Federation of Organic Agricultural 
Movements (IFOAM) General Assembly, which 
overwhelming voted to keep Grower Group 
certifcation solely for organizations of small scale, 
third world growers  not for Food Store Chains 
as industry interests have proposed. And as a new 
priority, NOC agreed to begin an initiative to bring 
government nutrition programs onto the agenda, 
starting with working against the prohibition of 
WIC (Women, Infants, Children) program mothers 
from using their coupons for organic food. 
After a power point presentation of the National 
Coop Grocers Associations new Organic 
Integrity Project designed to protect consumers via 
documenting methods for detecting fraud in the 
supply and retail chains, the meeting was evaluated 
and adjourned. NOC will host a pre-NOSB organic 
community meeting on Sunday, November 16
th.
 In 
addition to regularly scheduled conference calls, 
the next NOC and NOAP meetings will be in 
December. 
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 8
Compost Politics  
Vermont Style:
Vermont Compost 
Companys Legal 
Fight 
by Dave Rogers, Policy Advisor
NOFA Vermont
The environmental, agricultural and economic 
benefts of compost and composting are well-known 
to organic farmers, gardeners and readers of TNF.   
High-quality compost is essential to backyard 
and commercial organic crop production.  And 
composting is rapidly emerging as an important 
strategy in diverting organic wastes from 
commercial and community landflls.  To meet 
these needs the number and scale of commercial 
composting operations have grown in recent years.  
In Vermont, over the past year or so, these trends 
have collided in a regulatory, legal and political 
debate that will set the course for the future of 
commercial composting in this state.   Should 
larger-scale composting operations be regarded as 
solid waste processing facilities, or as agricultural 
enterprises? Ought they be regulated under the same 
land use and development laws that apply to, for 
example, industrial manufacturing plants?   How 
can commercial composting be encouraged while 
at the same time protecting environmental quality 
and community interests?  No one seems to have the 
answer. 
In May the legislature passed and Governor 
Douglas signed into law, an act (H.873) that places 
a moratorium on regulatory and enforcement actions 
related to commercial composting operations 
in Vermont pending the outcome of a two-year 
comprehensive review of related issues and the 
development of legislative proposals for new 
regulations.  
This summer Karl Hammer, owner/operator of the 
Vermont Compost Company in Montpelier has 
found himself in the crosshairs of the debate.  His 
ongoing legal struggle with the State of Vermont 
illustrates the complexity and importance of the 
issues involved.  It also provides something of a 
case study of Vermont politics  good and bad.   
Vermont Compost Company (VCC) is one of 
Vermonts largest and most successful commercial 
compost manufacturing companies.  On several 
acres of his 49 acre farm on Montpeliers northern 
border Karl composts sorted food residuals and 
natural organic materials brought to the farm from 
a number of local schools, colleges, and large and 
small businesses.  These ingredients are combined 
with composted manure Karl produces at another 
VCC composting site on a nearby dairy farm.      
Karl is a well-known and very experienced 
compostologist. Vermont Compost products are 
highly-regarded and relied upon by over two 
hundred organic commercial greenhouse growers 
and vegetable farmers in Vermont and other 
states.  Thousands of home gardeners buy Vermont 
Compost formulations at stores, farm stands, food 
coops and other outlets throughout the region.  
Karl is also a farmer, the fourth largest egg producer 
in the state.  His fock of 1200 free-ranging chickens 
produces over 1000 dozen eggs per month that are 
sold at local stores, coops and directly to customers 
at his farm.  Karl feeds them no grain; the hens 
forage among the compost piles for their food.  
Their manure is composted along with everything 
else.   Many tons of organic waste that would 
otherwise end up in central Vermonts landflls 
are converted into a valuable agricultural products 
 eggs and organic compost.    
It would be hard to fnd anyone who does a better 
job of closing the loops of the local environment, 
economy and food system. Over the years his 
farming innovations, composting practices 
and contributions to the Vermonts agriculture, 
communities and environment have been widely 
recognized by citizens, businesses, environmental 
organizations, legislators and government agencies.  
But the growth of Vermont Compost Company in 
order to meet the demand for its compost products 
has led to controversy and a diffcult legal battle 
with the State that threatens its future.      
Earlier this year, in response to complaints by 
several neighbors (who are politically well-
connected to Vermonts Republican party), the 
Vermont Natural Resources Boards District 5 
Environmental Commission found that VCC is 
operating a compost product manufacturing facility 
and requires a permit under Vermonts Land Use 
and Development Act, Act 250.  In June, Karl 
appealed this Jurisdictional Opinion to Vermonts 
Environmental Court arguing, in part, that VCCs 
status as an operating farm, which has long been 
affrmed by the Vermonts Agency of Agriculture, 
makes it exempt from Act 250. 
(In 1970, when Act 250 was enacted, farms 
were specifcally exempted to protect them from 
neighbors and others who might, for one reason or 
another, seek to prevent farmers from expanding 
or conducting farming activities.  Environmental 
quality standards on Vermont farms are enforced by 
the Agencies of Agriculture and Natural Resources.  
Contrary to allegations made by his neighbors, 
VCC has not been found to be in violation of these 
standards.) 
On July 7
th
, in an unexpected and outrageous 
development, Vermonts Natural Resources Board 
ordered Karl to immediately cease and desist all 
operations, remove all compost from the farm and 
pay an $18,000 fne  even though no court hearings 
had been held or judgments made pertaining to 
VCCs pending appeal! Karl appealed this order as 
well to the Environmental Court.    
An especially troubling aspect in this matter is that 
the moratorium on enforcement actions does not 
apply to VCC.  Apparently, H.873 was tweaked 
by someone in the fnal days of the legislative 
session, without the knowledge of many legislators, 
such that VCC would be excluded from the 
moratorium. This provided the Vermont Natural 
Resources Board, whose Chair was appointed by 
Republican Governor Douglas, with the opportunity 
to immediately pursue its legal actions against 
Vermont Compost Company.
Unless the Natural Resources Board is directed 
by the Governor to suspend its legal actions 
against the Vermont Company Company until new 
composting rules and regulations are developed and 
implemented, Karl faces a long and expensive legal 
fght. His legal expenses have already amounted to 
tens of thousands of dollars and continue to climb.  
They threaten to reach a point soon where he will 
no longer be able to fght the deep pockets of the 
State of Vermont.  Vermont Compost Company 
has created a Legal Defense Fund for those who 
would like to help.  More information about this 
and the entire story may be found on VCCs website 
 http://www.vermontcompost.com.
At the time this is being written (August 5), NOFA 
Vermont is helping to organize a growing group of 
certifed organic farmers who use VCC products, 
as well as recycling  organizations, restaurants, 
food coops and others who are directly affected 
by this case.    The group has retained an attorney 
to represent them and fle for party status on their 
behalf in the Environmental Court.  The group is 
organizing under the name Friends of Vermont 
Farming and Recycling.  It is now actively 
fundraising to pay attorney fees and, if funds are 
suffcient, assist Vermont Compost Company with 
its legal expenses.  
Vermonters interest in this issue is high and 
growing.  Letters to the editor, op-eds, editorials 
and news stories appear regularly in the 
states newspapers and media outlets. A recent 
gubernatorial candidates debate dwelt on the issue.  
A petition to Governor Douglas is being circulated 
at farmers markets, food coops and other locations.  
Media and parties in other states are expressing 
interest.  This is grassroots Vermont politics!  
More information may be found at www.nofavt.
org.  Updates on developments will be posted on 
NOFA Vermonts webpage regularly.   Contact Dave 
Rogers, NOFA-VT Policy Advisor, if youd like 
more information  dave@nofavt.org.
The NOFA Organic Land Care Program is excited 
to announce that Page Czepiga (pronounced zeh-
pee-guh) has been hired as Accreditation Manager. 
Page, a recent University of Vermont graduate 
who majored in Community and International 
Development, recently participated in the Living 
Routes Ecovillage program in Findhorn Scotland. 
She also worked at the Vermont Hispanic Labor 
Pilot Project where she designed a survey, polled 
workers/producers at fve farms and developed and 
published a communication dictionary that is now 
available for use by area farmers. 
Page will be the central communication person 
between the NOFA Organic Land Care Program 
and the diverse pool of NOFA Accredited Organic 
Land Care Professionals.  She will be organizing this 
years Update Course and assisting professionals 
with their re-accreditation for 2009. Page also will be 
sending out monthly Organic Land Care newsletters 
and coordinating with the credits sub-committee to 
provide continuing education to NOFA professionals. 
To contact Page, call the CT NOFA offce at (203) 
888-5146 or email pczepiga@ctnofa.org. 
Welcome Page Czepiga, Accreditation Manager
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 9
Special Supplement on
Organic Winter Production & Sales
by Jack Kittredge
Because of its small physical size, Rhode Island 
is used to playing second fddle to the other New 
England states in many regards. But while only 
a quarter the size of the next biggest state in the 
region (Connecticut) it is the most people-dense 
of any. In fact, the Providence metropolitan area 
contains more people than any in New England 
except Boston. With this many people for 
customers, and with an ocean-moderated climate 
many of us in colder climes would kill for, winter 
production and sales of crops on some of Rhode 
Islands 800 remaining farms is a natural. 
Farm Fresh Rhode Island is a Providence-based 
non-proft advocacy organization that is trying to 
make more of this happen. It started as a research 
project at Brown University, but grew into an 
independent non-proft. It is still headquartered, 
however, in Browns Urban Environmental Lab, 
home to its Environmental Studies Department. 
The building is surrounded by community gardens 
actively used by Brown students and faculty, as well 
as neighborhood residents. Last fall the gardens 
were torn out and the building put at risk because 
Brown was going to demolish it. But there was a 
push back by students and faculty and ultimately 
Brown decided to preserve the building for a 
time and allow the gardens to continue. Students 
and faculty members quickly rebuilt the gardens 
and distributed about 20 plots, plus a couple of 
community ones open to anyone. 
Farm Fresh Rhode Island has set up farmers markets 
in the Providence area to enable city-dwellers to 
get access to local food. But those markets tend to 
close at the end of October, or by Thanksgiving at 
the latest. One of the organizations long term goals 
is to build a permanent year-round farmers market 
in Providence which would be open 4 or 5 days a 
week.
Our market would create a permanent enclosed 
space, says Jessica Knapp, development 
coordinator for the group, similar to a public 
market, where produce, meat, dairy, everything 
could be sold. There are a couple of markets like 
that in Baltimore, one in Philadelphia.
But for now Farm Fresh Rhode Island just wants 
people to get familiar with buying local produce in 
the winter. Last November they came up with the 
idea of having a one-day a week wintertime market 
that would explore whether the community really 
wanted a place to buy local food in the winter. 
Sheri Griffn, the groups markets coordinator, used 
to work at AS 220, a small non-proft art gallery 
and performance space in downtown Providence. 
AS 220 was not used during the day, so she got 
permission to use their display space on Saturdays 
from noon to 3 p.m.. Ten to twelve vendors agreed 
to sell there, it was advertised, and people came. It 
stayed open from the beginning of December until 
May 3. 
There arent actually any grocery stores in 
downtown Providence, explains Jessica. There 
A Wintertime Farmers Market 
in the Ocean State
photo courtesy Farm Fresh Rhode Island
The entrance to the Wintertime Farmers Market at Providences AS 220 is well marked!
photo courtesy Farm Fresh Rhode Island
Karla Simmons, of Simmons Farm, sets up her display of vegetables at the Providence 
Wintertime Farmers Market.
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 10
arent even many people living here, compared to 
downtowns in other cities. But this is a good market 
for people who have condos and apartments because 
it is handy to people to go shopping on Saturday. 
We had about 8 tables going in a circle. The vendors 
were on the inside and the customers on the outside. 
The Johnson and Wales chef would cook up food 
here, as a sort of demo. It was a festive atmosphere, 
which was nice in the winter.
The frst two or three months were busy and 
successful beyond our imagination, she continues. 
It was always packed from 12 to 3. We had at 
least 300 customers coming every week. They were 
people committed to buying local, people who had 
frequented farmers markets during the season. There 
is a restaurant next door that uses locally grown 
produce. They worked with us and people could 
come to the market, bring their family for brunch, 
and enjoy the day.
The market was such a success the group is looking 
for a larger space this winter. They are also talking 
to farmers earlier, so they can prepare to have more 
food specifcally for the market. Although AS 220 
was accessible by bus, parking was a problem last 
winter. So Farm Fresh Rhode Island is trying to 
work out arrangements with local merchants who 
have lots but dont use them on Saturday. 
It is not a requirement of Farm Fresh Rhode Island 
that farms selling at their markets be certifed 
organic. But some of the participants at the 
wintertime market were. Skip Paul, of Wishing 
Stone Farm in Little Compton, sold storage crops 
and greens there through the end of December, but 
treasures his time off in the winter and didnt want 
to go into January with the market. Karla Simmons, 
of Simmons Farm in Middletown, brought greens as 
well as a selection of their organic meats, frozen and 
packed in coolers. 
We had 4 farms with fruits and vegetables, says 
Jessica, including an apple orchard which did 
very well, plus we always had a coffee roaster, a 
chocolate maker, a woman who made jams and 
jellies out of locally grown fruit, an oyster farm 
came every week, one farm would bring meat 
and eggs, we had a cheese maker and a start-up 
farm raising eggs came too. It was a great chance 
for them to start up and meet the public. We were 
also selling local organic Christmas trees before 
Christmas. 
Farm Fresh Rhode Island also had a table there to 
answer question and occasionally sell some out-
of-state things produced on small farms. Sheri 
had a relative with a small citrus farm in Florida 
who shipped up some tangerines and grapefruits 
that were especially appealing to New England 
customers in January. There was also a farmer in 
Maine who grew heirloom beans, but had family 
in Rhode Island. The organization sold his beans at 
their table, too. A local bakery brought bread so that 
people could come and buy a lot of their staples. 
In our other markets we dont allow non-local 
items, or for farmers to come one week and skip 
the next, explains Jessica. But because this was 
a winter market and we were experimenting, we 
wanted to open it up to small farms elsewhere. We 
told the farmers that this was just a pilot and we 
would re-evaluate at the beginning of March. But 
when March came everyone was still aboard. At 
the beginning of Spring the supply started to wane 
a little bit -- Karla Simmons took a month off, for 
one thing. But when we started to get asparagus and 
photo courtesy Farm Fresh Rhode Island
Sheri Griffn, at the Farm Fresh Rhode Island table, gives information and sells some family 
farm citrus.
photo courtesy Farm Fresh Rhode Island
Skip Paul, who sold through December, shows his tomatoes, broccoli and fresh greens.
photo courtesy Farm Fresh Rhode Island
Allan Hill of Hill Orchards, with his apples, was one of the markets top sellers.
more greens it picked right up.
We are encouraging people that this market 
is worthwhile and they should raise for it, she 
continues. But there are plenty of farms that value 
their downtime in winter, too, and they dont want 
to grow anymore. Were particularly interested in 
storage crops like potatoes, squash, and apples. 
Another thing that we are trying to put together for 
this permanent space in the future is a lot of storage 
on-site so people can grow their crops but store 
them there.
Skip Pauls Wishing Stone Farm is one of the 
Ocean States older and more established certifed 
organic farms. Situated in Little Compton, on one 
of the long fngers protruding into the Rhode Island 
Sound on which so much of the eastern part of the 
state sits, Skip suffers from drought every summer. 
Winds off the ocean drop what rain they carry to the 
west of him, from thunderclouds often tantalizingly 
Skip Paul
Grower 
Extraordinaire!
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 11
Organic and Natural Beef 
Organic Milk (Bottles) 
Interested families are welcome and      
encouraged to come see our beef in their 
natural habitat.  We are proud of our cattle 
and how they live.  They graze at           
appropriate times of the year and have   
access to outdoor and sunshine all year 
round. 
Our farm and all cattle have been           
inspected and passed by a third party    
animal welfare inspector as well as the 
normal organic inspector that other farms 
do.  A specialist, third party inspector, also 
inspected the meat handling facility; to be 
sure it was being handled humanely. 
Would you rather have local, well-finished 
beef limited amount of barley and oats 
during the finishing of our beef.  We dont 
use growth hormones or GMO Seeds, feed 
maintenance antibiotics or bakery waste, 
ever. 
If your family wants safe, high quality,   
organic meat year round, come or call and 
place an order for a side at $4.00 per lb. 
or, a whole animal at $3.75 per lb. (plus 
cut and wrap).   
Some customers split a whole animal with 
a friend.  Sides will average 400 lbs plus. 
Our organic meat and glass-bottled milk 
are in approximately 50 health foodstores 
as well as restaurants in coastal Maine.  
And, thank you for supporting Caldwell  
Family Farm and local organic agriculture. 
CALDWELL FAMILY FARM 
(207) 225-3871 
www.caldwellfamsmaine.com 
"Hey!
We need a new 
pasture"
Wow! Thanks, this 
is wonderful." 
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 12
within sight of his parched felds. When I stopped 
to talk with him in mid-July we was feld-applying 
water to his winter squash transplants from a 10,000 
tanker-load he had recently purchased.
I can get 10,000 gallons of water for $250, he 
says. A truck brings it from a reservoir. Thats 
cheap compared to the cost of drilling wells. Ive 
had no rain for 60 days -- I know it will eventually 
rain in August, but I need the security of the water 
now.
The lack of regular rainfall, while making 
agriculture more diffcult, does not detract from 
Little Comptons value for other purposes. 
Right now the highest use seems to be sprouting 
photo by Jack Kittredge
Skip Paul stands with some of the tomato plants that will still be producing for this winters 
farmers market.
photo by Jack Kittredge
Jessica Knapp stands outside the Farm Fresh Rhode Island offce 
on the campus of Brown University.
McMansions. When Skip bought his house twenty 
some years ago land was $5000 an acre. Now it is 
more like $90,000 an acre. 
At such prices, of course, farming is priced out of 
the market. Skip had ended up begging use of some 
of his felds from wealthy people, and getting the 
use of almost 30 acres from the town, which had 
implemented a 0.5% tax on property transfers to 
fund a town land trust. 
Skip markets about a third of his produce through 
CSAs, a third through farmers markets, and a third 
wholesale  primarily to Whole Foods which has 
three big markets in the Providence area.
Here at the home farm I have a traditional CSA, 
he explains. But Ive established what I call debit 
card CSAs in Providence and Barrington. People 
pay me in advance and I add 10% to whatever 
they give me. The minimum is $350. They come 
whenever they want and can get whatever they 
want. Its set up like a farmers market but I provide 
staff and the public can come -- but they dont get 
the 10% extra. With the change in paradigm for 
energy I see a problem for the CSAs that are out 
of the way and you have to drive to get to them 
 people are going to stop coming. Were going 
to have to deliver to the city. Right now we have 
our site in front of a store with an overhang, for 
protection from the elements. When farmers realize 
they can service thousands of people in the city 
rather than a few hundred at the farm, theyll see it 
makes sense. Thats the future of CSAs. 
One of the farmers markets Skip participated in 
last year was the Providence wintertime market. 
Although this year he is growing more for next 
winter, last fall he found out he had to make some 
adjustments for the wintertime customers.
We had a bunch of parsnips and purple top turnips 
and I remember that for one of the frst winter 
markets I brought them in bushels and baskets. 
Nobody bought a thing. My wife said call Pete of 
Petes Greens. He told me: Man, bag them up and 
call it Skips Soup Mix. It was a great idea. We sold 
50 bags the next time. So packaging is big in the 
winter markets. We now have three soup mixes. 
Having greens is big, he continues. There is 
an explosion of interest in greenhouses  some 
farmers are adding heat, some not. Where we are 
we wont have to add any heat  were so much 
warmer down here. We can grow year round  but 
we dont want to. We only sold through December. 
We work so hard we want a little time off. I start 
in the greenhouse February frst anyway, grafting 
tomatoes to disease-resistant rootstock. You have to 
take time off or you burn out. Were growing almost 
 of an acre of onions for the Wintertime Farmers 
Market, an acre of potatoes, a lot of carrots and 
parsnips. Weve increased the size of those storage 
crop plantings.
 
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20 lbs treats  12,000 sq. ft!
by Jack Kittredge
The Finger Lakes region of New York is about as 
beautiful as you can get for farm country. Gently 
rolling land, dotted with family-size farms and 
orchards, gradually drops down to the gleaming 
lakes. Drawn by their deep, clean water, summer 
tourists fock to the region. 
The Finger Lakes region was always a big fruit-
growing region  peaches and cherries and some 
apples. The lakes moderate the climate so you dont 
get as bad frosts in the spring, which kill the fowers 
before pollination. You also get two or three weeks 
longer for ripening in the fall. Also, in some areas 
the land is steep and rocky and the soil is terrible for 
anything else.
Welchs Grape Juice came in during the sixties 
and convinced a lot of tree fruit growers to take 
their orchards out and put in juice grapes. So a lot 
of growers did that, thinking there would be this 
processing plant and great market. But Welchs 
never built their plant. By then, however, local 
growers had gotten their feet wet in the grape 
growing business.
When New York passed a law making it easier for 
small grape growers to set up estate vineyards 
to bottle and process and sell their own wine, 
the idea took off here. The soils, climate and 
experience for vineyards all existed already, and 
the tourists provided a ready market. As a result, 
the Finger Lakes area has experienced a boom in 
local vineyards and many lakeside farms have been 
converted to small wineries. 
Blue Heron Farm, however, located between the two 
biggest lakes, Seneca and Cayuga, is still a mixed 
vegetable operation  the same as it was when 
owners Robin Ostfeld and Lou Johns founded it 22 
years ago. 
We moved here from Western Washington, near 
Seattle, says Robin. Lous from there and we 
were farming there, but Im an East Coaster and my 
family convinced us to move closer. Also the land 
prices here were a fraction of the prices out there. 
That was a big convincing reason. We really liked 
Running a Winter CSA
At Blue Heron Farm
photo by Jack Kittredge
Robin and Lou in the main feld on their 154 acre farm 
in the Finger Lakes region of New York.
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 24
the Ithaca region and the markets there, only 20 
miles away. Land prices are still very reasonable 
here compared to the rest of the country. Although 
the vineyards have driven up the prices. There must 
be forty or ffty wineries within 20 miles of us!
The couple bought 154 acres in Lodi with three 
felds and a lot of woods, and proceeded to put in all 
the vegetables from A to Z, plus some fowers and 
strawberries. 
The soils here are not very pretty for vegetable 
ground, says Lou. Theyre shallow, clayey, full 
of rocks. But theyre getting better. We produce on 
10 to 12 acres, plus we keep another 3 to 5 fallow, 
out of production in any one year. We can do 
tractor planting and tillage all right. But most of the 
harvesting is by hand.
They joined the Ithaca Farmers Market and 
the Finger Lakes Growers Coop, and their frst 
year went all the way to New York City, to the 
Greenmarket, to sell their produce. 
We stopped that, says Lou. And we left the 
Finger Lakes Growers after ten years. We sold to 
Wegmans for a while, but didnt like dealing with 
conventional grocery stores. Theres a huge turnover 
in the staff, theres a huge bureaucracy. Every item 
of yours has to be in their system. Recently some 
chains are getting the local food idea and managers 
are being told to look for local produce and make it 
happen. But for us they were impossible to deal with 
in the past. We prefer to sell as locally as we can.
Now we do all our own sales, adds Robin. We 
have a few local restaurants, about half our crop 
we sell at the farmers market in Ithaca, we have a 
winter CSA, we sell to the local food coop, and to 
select customers in New York City. We tried running 
a local CSA out here, but there just wasnt much 
interest.
In the winter, she continues,  we primarily 
market through our winter CSA, but we still supply 
the food coops and keep selling to the restaurants 
that are open. Our restaurants are medium to high 
priced places and they like to work with root crops 
during the winter because of the locavore movement 
and the benefts of supporting local farms. 
Blue Heron Farm is certifed organic and has 5 full 
time and about 4 part time employees, besides the 
owners. Thats from June through November. In 
the winter it is just Robin and Lou. The hired labor 
supply is irregular and the farm advertises in a 
number of venues. Some of the workers are family, 
some friends, some local people. 
Lou and Robin have one child -- a daughter who is 
23. She wants to be a doctor and is at Bennington 
College in Vermont taking a lot of science courses 
in a program called post baccalaureate pre med 
and seems to be enjoying it.
One of the most interesting aspects of Blue Heron 
Farm is their highly successful 110 member 
winter CSA. It involves 6 pick-ups from January 
through March (the months the Ithaca Farmers 
Market is not open) and consists primarily of root 
crops and winter squash, but also some stored 
greens as well as fresh kale and spinach. Perhaps 
the couple describe it best on their website www.
blueheronorganic.com:
The long cold winters in our region make vegetable 
farming economically challenging. To address this 
problem, we decided many years ago to grow crops 
suitable for storage and to develop facilities to keep 
them as fresh as possible all winter long. In 2006, 
we built a passive solar greenhouse and grew a 
successful crop of winter kale. Were confdent that 
we can supply each share at least 2 installments of 
fresh greens during the winter.
Every 2 weeks in January, February & March you 
will pick up a box of mixed vegetables. In the 
Ithaca area we will deliver every other Saturday and 
Tuesday afternoon to the Greenstar Coop parking 
lot. A pickup in Watkins Glen is also available, call 
for details. The location and dates will be confrmed 
in a December mailing.
We want to make it as easy as possible for you to 
get your produce. You can choose to pick up either 
on Saturdays or Tuesdays. If, on occasion, you 
cant pick up on your regular day, we will hold your 
produce until the next delivery. If you dont pick up 
the second time, the food will be donated.
Youll always fnd at least 6 different items. Potatoes 
and carrots will be included every time. Beets, 
Brussels sprouts, cabbage, celeriac, garlic, leeks, 
photo by James Cornwell
Lou retroftted this from a horsedrawn to a tractor-mounted potato digger, which works fne.
photo by James Cornwell
The farm crew unloads cabbage from the feld into the storage bin in the cooled room.
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 25
onions, parsnips, radishes, rutabagas, winter squash, 
shallots, and turnips will make an appearance once 
or twice, and maybe more. Kale, spinach, or another 
delicious leafy green will be available at least twice, 
and possibly more, depending on the weather. 
Recipes are included every time.
We have a limited number of shares to sell, so sign 
up early to avoid disappointment.
Cost for a full share, a total of 6 boxes, is $150.00 
(2008). A full share will contain 15-16 lbs. of 
produce (90-96 lbs. total).
Half shares are $80.00 (2008). Half shares will have 
7- 8 lbs. each time (42-48 lbs. total).
Since initially getting involved with the Finger 
Lakes Marketing Coop, Lou and Robin were 
growing winter storage crops. But so was everyone 
else, so prices were low and the markets saturated. 
They fgured there had to be a better way. 
We spend all this time developing markets, sighs 
Lou, and then at the end of the year we didnt 
want to shut it all down. And we didnt want to 
go without winter income. Its a major part of our 
planning. In the fall every other grower has produce 
and the market is fooded. But come late November 
the demand goes up and by January you can sell an 
awful lot. 
So in 1997 we started a winter CSA, adds Robin. 
At that point Id never heard of a winter CSA. But 
it was surprising how many people were interested. 
Last year the CSA was about two-thirds of our 
winter income, and the rest was wholesale sales. We 
sell more in January than we do in October.
 One of the nice things about winter selling, she 
continues, is keeping in touch with our customers. 
The whole idea behind it was that one fall the 
farmers market was closing and all our customers 
were asking us how they could get our produce 
during the winter. They really looked forward to 
getting our produce and were going to miss it and 
their connection to the farm. Winter is such a time 
of shutting in and losing your connections. That has 
been one of the nice things about a winter CSA. It 
is nice to have structure for our days in the winter, 
too. We average 2 to 3 days a week of 5 hours each 
during the winter. It was stressful to not have any 
money coming in all winter, so it helps to have an 
income. 
The Internet is a really big help for people not 
knowing what to do with something. I dont know 
how many millions of recipes are up there! You can 
search for anything! We dont do a newsletter, but 
do enclose a list of what is in the order so people 
can check it and know what something is they dont 
recognize. Were also going to do a blog on our 
website.
Important to the CSAs success is the farms 
cooperation with Greenstar in Ithaca.
Theyre pretty cooperative with us, says Lou. 
They let us use their entryway for distribution. Of 
course it brings customers to the coop and theyll 
shop for other stuff once they are there. They also 
save half-bushel waxed boxes for us, which we use 
for packing peoples shares. The boxes are reusable 
many times, but theyre not recyclable so most 
of them get thrown out. Think of the millions of 
single-use waxed boxes that go into landflls in this 
country. Theres no system for them to get back to 
California.
Blue Heron has also formed a linkage with Liz 
Henderson at Peacework Organic Farm, about 
50 miles away. Peacework members make a bulk 
purchase of 50 Blue Heron winter shares. They do 
the entire breakdown, the bookkeeping, and send a 
check for the 50 shares in a lump sum. Robin and 
Lou ship the food to them every two weeks through 
a distributor 10 miles away who is going to the 
Rochester food coop. Peacework and Ithaca get 
deliveries on alternate weeks. 
Comparing the labor involved in servicing 
Peacework and Ithaca members, Robin and Lou are 
very conscious of the work involved in breaking 
down the produce into individual orders and are 
trying to get the Ithaca shareholders to do that.  
Weve been boxing things into individual CSA 
orders here at the farm and driving them down to 
Ithaca, says Robin. But it takes a good bit of time. 
There are 30 boxes for the shares, and then 30 bags 
for the half shares. Then you have to weigh out 
your carrots and potatoes Wed like to start having 
shareholders break down their own shares there. 
We need to fnd a good place to do it. It would be 
too messy and obtrusive at the coop. We need to 
fnd a heated garage, or weve thought about doing 
photo by James Cornwell
Robin brings in an especially productive Brussels sprouts plant.
photo by James Cornwell
Garlic dries in the peak of the barn attic for several months until it is stored.
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 26
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it in the truck, if we could get light and heat and a 
way for people to step up into it. Like the Peoples 
Grocery! 
The key to making the winter CSA work is planting, 
harvesting, and storing the right crops at the right 
time. 
We store everything we can, says Robin, all the 
different root vegetables: Brussels sprouts, leeks, 
cabbage, onions, garlic, winter squash. Were able 
to keep those in pretty good shape usually through 
the end of April. Some things we move faster than 
others, and some of the hardier root vegetables we 
continue to sell at the farmers market in April and 
into May. Then we have a passive solar greenhouse 
where we have kale that keeps growing through the 
winter, and spinach that we plant so we can have 
early spinach in March. Kale and spinach are the 
only things we actually grow in the winter. And that 
is of limited quantity and pretty much just for our 
CSA.
The greenhouses are double skinned, she 
continues. We start planting kale in August in the 
feld, dig it up in November and replant it in the 
greenhouses. The plants continue to grow during the 
winter, and then make a nice crop of forets out of 
the leaf nodes. We call it Kale raab. We give it to the 
CSA in March and have it at the farmers market in 
April.. We get a lot of pickings.
A winter CSA puts a big demand on your planting 
schedules for midsummer and late summer. More 
so than if you are just growing for the fresh market. 
A lot of ground is tied up in carrots and beets and 
turnips that arent going to fresh market sales. And 
there is a lot of greenhouse seed starting that you 
just wouldnt otherwise be doing. 
It starts with the parsnips that you plant in April, 
recites Lou. Then there are the onions, celeriac 
 those are all started early. In July we plant beets 
and carrots and rutabagas. After these cucumbers 
come out of this house well put kale in there. You 
are forever planning your plantings.
Lou and Robin put a lot of energy into proper 
storage facilities for the different crops they wanted 
to provide during the winter. They had an old 1880s 
barn with horse stalls and a loft for hay storage. 
They put cement foors in the existing stalls, rodent-
proofed them with wire mesh all along the walls, 
sprayed foam on the walls for insulation, and put in 
cooling units. 
Often in the early to mid fall it is quite warm, says 
Robin, and you cant rely on natural cooling. With 
these units we can refrigerate everything down to 35 
degrees. They are like walk-in coolers but they are 
extremely effcient because of the spray foam. In the 
winter we dont normally cool, just circulate the air. 
But in the fall we can bring the temperature down 
quickly. We put water on the cement foors to keep 
the humidity up. 
Then we have a different room for onions and 
garlic, she continues, and a different room for 
squash. They have the same insulation, cement 
foors and rodent proofng, but are not refrigerated. 
Each has a small heater connected to a thermostat 
that can maintain the room temperatures at 40 and 
50 degrees F respectively. We cure winter squash 
frst in the greenhouse. We keep it at about 70 
degrees for a couple of weeks and it will continue to 
ripen there. We fnd we get better long-term storage 
that way. We dont manage the humidity in the 
onions and garlic or squash stalls. They just get the 
ambient humidity  which is fairly low in the fall 
and winter. 
Brussels sprouts we cut as late as possible, usually 
right before Thanksgiving, and line boxes with 
garbage bags. Once they are flled we close the bags 
and put the boxes in the cooler with the root crops. 
Theyll keep at least until January. We used to just 
put them in boxes unbagged, but they dried out. The 
garbage bags seem to retain moisture. 
In the cooler stalls we keep the root crops 
 rutabagas, parsnips, turnips, celeriac, potatoes, 
radishes, beets and carrots -- plus Brussels sprouts, 
and leeks. Each of the two cooler rooms is about 
12 by 22 feet. Polystyrene lines the ceiling and we 
have drains in the foor for water when we wash 
the facility down. We keep cabbage loose in a bin 
in the cooler stalls. We trim it right before we sell 
it. If we didnt have this bin we would have had to 
box all our cabbage in the feld. Everything except 
the cabbage is in waxed boxes, stacked on pallets, 
with the feld dirt right on them. We wash them 
photo by Jack Kittredge
Robin shows the empty horse barn she and Lou converted to a walk-in cooler to store root crops and 
cabbage for winter markets.
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 27
just before we distribute them. We fnd that a fne 
coating of our soil keeps them from drying out. 
Were doing hundreds of bushels of root crops and 
boxes are the easiest way to pack them.
For carrots  both because of their soils and the 
actual shape of the carrot  they grow the Chatennay 
variety. Theyre shorter and blockier and dont 
lose moisture or dry out, so they tend to be the best 
storage carrots. In addition, their favor improves 
with age. Lou and Robin break the tops off so no 
greens are on them. Beets get trimmed with a knife 
but they leave a little of the stem. They prefer beet 
varieties that have a high sugar content such as Red 
Ace, for which organic seed is widely available.
Garlic is stored upstairs in the hayloft. It is tied in 
bundles in the feld and then hung from cables in 
the hayloft until the weather gets close to freezing. 
Between the end of harvest in August and storing it 
in an insulated stall in late December for the CSA, a 
lot is sold fresh.
Lou feels that storage conditions are crucial to 
maintaining a healthy and attractive product for 3 or 
4 months.
We try to hold our coolers at 36 degrees, he says. 
If you are at 40 degrees your storage time is really 
cut down. You need to work with someone who 
fully understands cooling and refrigeration. In high 
humidity refrigeration like this the temperature of 
the coil is set to be not many degrees colder than 
the room  so you dont get a lot of condensation 
freezing on your coils. That keeps a lot of the 
humidity in the room. If you look at the inside of 
an air conditioner, that coil is really cold so room 
air passing over it drops moisture that freezes on 
it. In that case the cooling cycles on and off so the 
coil can unfreeze and let the water run off. Here, the 
amount of coils in the room are sized with enough 
to not require them to run much colder, but to let 
them cool the room by being only a little colder than 
the air.
Lou and Robin thought about doing a root cellar 
instead of coolers, but the cost would have been 
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photo by James Cornwell
This is winter squash curing in the greenhouse before storing it for the winter.
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 28
much more than retroftting the barn and wouldnt 
have enabled them to bring the temperature down 
close to freezing in the early fall. As they were able 
to afford more improvements in later years, they 
went back and sprayed an extra layer of foam on top 
of the frst. 
When the winter squash storage stall is not in use 
they use the room to warm up seed potatoes to 
green sprout them. They keep bags in the dark 
there for ten days to two weeks at about 75 degrees. 
What that does is initiate all the eyes to bud out. If 
you dont do that, normally what you will get is a 
bull sprout on the one end that will start growing 
vigorously. It produces a hormone that suppresses 
all the other eyes. After you get them all sprouted, 
you cut your potatoes and expose them to light in 
shallow trays and the sprouts green up and start 
growing. Then you put them out in the feld. What 
you get is about two weeks quicker growth. They 
emerge much quicker in the feld, get a jump on 
diseases and pests and give you an earlier harvest.
Of course storage adds value to the crops, and 
Lou and Robin make sure that they recover their 
investment by selling the root vegetables at a price 
that covers the cost of storage. In January, for 
instance, they get $1 a pound wholesale for potatoes 
-- whereas in October they usually cant get more 
than 70. 
But the volume is the real difference, stresses 
Robin. I cant sell that many in October because 
everyone else has them. But in January Ill sell a ton 
of them! Besides the competition being less, people 
are eating more potatoes and root vegetables in the 
winter.
I asked Robin and Lou what the pluses and minuses 
of running a winter CSA are.
Around here in the summer there is a huge amount 
of production, sighs Robin. There are a lot of 
farmers with the same perishable items. We found 
there was a lot of security in having crops that 
didnt have to be sold  that had a huge window 
of freshness. Its a much more relaxed way of 
marketing. The root vegetables just keep getting 
sweeter and sweeter! Plus it spreads out our labor. 
It we were trying to do it all in the fall wed have to 
hire more people. 
And we cant drop that much stuff on our markets 
all at once anyway, says Lou. If we spread it out 
they can take it in smaller deliveries all winter. 
But on the minus side the infrastructure costs are 
signifcant. We did it all piecemeal -- its used, 
cobbled together, and in an old barn. But still, even 
though it was parsed out over 15 years, our overall 
investment is large. We dont like to be using the 
energy to run the coolers and heaters, even though 
the costs seem pretty minor. When we shut the 
system off in March its insignifcant on the electric 
bill. 
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photo by James Cornwell
The cabbage is loaded into a separate bin in the root crop cooler room. 
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 29
VEGETABLE GROWERS:  
Bejo offers a range of organic or untreat-
ed varieties for your winter and earliest spring sales! 
Plan  ahead  now  to  include  overwintering  and  cool 
weather crops in your 2009 season lineup!
Bejo Seeds, Inc., 1088 Healey Road, Geneva, NY  14456. 
315-789-4155 www.bejoseeds.com
 Harvesting kale rapini 4/22/08          Kale rapini 4/22/08  Bejo leeks overwintering in feld  Harvested leeks 4/22/08
Overwintering can bring early market income, with most of 
the labor and maintenance done the previous season.  Just 
harvest, clean and sell!  Try overwintering Bejo Winterbor 
kale and Bandit Leek next season.  Mulch Nectar carrots in 
the feld and continue to harvest into the winter.  Call your 
local Bejo dealer or 315-789-4155 for more information.
One minus of this system, adds Robin, is you 
dont get enough time off each year before you start 
up again. And its often not pleasant to harvest all 
that stuff in November.
 
As for the future, the couple plan to increase the 
CSA share cost a little in 2009. For the frst time last 
winter there was another CSA in the area, but Robin 
and Lou feel fne about that because they dont want 
to expand to meet demand. 
If we opened it up we could more than double 
our 110 members, says Robin. But we dont 
want to work that hard! We like to not hire help all 
winter. Its not a pleasant time of year to be washing 
vegetables, hauling stuff through the snow. 
Were pretty much maxed out as much as we 
want, says Lou. No expansion!
photo by James Cornwell
Washed potatoes spill out onto the sorting 
table from the washing machine.
photo by James Cornwell
Early on a Fall morning the van is loaded for market.
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 30
by Harvey Ussery 
Soil Care
You should be as concerned about improving soil 
quality in the greenhouse as in the garden. I grow a 
cover crop of cowpeas in the off season to improve 
the soil. Another possibility is the growing of forage 
cropsgrain grasses, mixed crucifers, peas, etc.
as cut-and-come-again green fodder for poultry or 
other livestock in the winter. The biomass of the 
root systems of some of these plants, especially 
rye, is quite large. If you rotate your forage plots 
over the greenhouse beds, their soil will over time 
increase in tilth, fertility, and humus as the spent 
root systems decompose.
Use of compost is of course always a good idea, 
especially for its boost to the microbial populations 
in the soil. As in garden growing, mulches help 
moderate the temperature in the soil, conserve soil 
moisture, and decompose over time, increasing soil 
tilth and fertility.
 (Do note, though, that use of heavy mulches could 
encourage slugs, since there are apt to be inside 
the greenhouse fewer natural controls on their 
population than in the garden.)
One caution regarding soil care in the greenhouse: It 
is important to avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. 
Green leafy crops can sometimes accumulate 
unhealthy levels of nitrates, especially in the low 
light conditions of the winter greenhouse. I never 
add nitrogen fertilizers in the greenhouse. Composts 
are a good source of fertility, though it is better to 
use plant-based rather than manure-based (higher in 
nitrogen) composts. I am even concerned about the 
nitrogen fxed by the summer cowpea cover crop, 
and plan to follow it with a quick mixed grain cover 
to sop up some of the nitrogen before the fall 
greenhouse planting season comes in.
The Moderated Winter
A homestead greenhouse can add tremendously to 
sustainable food production. However, adding huge 
amounts of artifcial heat in order to grow tomatoes 
in January or cucumbers in March is anything but 
sustainable. Hence, I strongly recommend relying 
on the protection from winters extremes provided 
by the structure itself, and on naturally cold-hardy 
plants, in order to bring in your winter crops. Lets 
look at each of those points in turn.
Most new greenhouse owners are surprised to learn 
that a plastic-skinned greenhouse gets quite cold at 
nightin fact, the air temperature will often be only 
a few degrees above ambient temperature outside. 
Upon refection, this is not really so surprising: The 
translucent skin that acts as a portal for the radiant 
heat of the sun during the day is also no barrier 
to the radiation of stored heat out of the structure 
into the cosmos at night. How is it, then, that the 
greenhouse is so effective at keeping plants alive, 
even when winter is turning the ground to iron 
outside?
You could think of the soil inside the greenhouse 
as a rechargeable battery. During the day, it charges 
from the heat energy of the incoming sunlight. At 
night, it loses that stored energy at a prodigious rate, 
true, but it has a huge amount of heat it can lose 
before the soil starts to freeze.
The other way in which the structure protects its 
sheltered plants is by moderating the extremes 
of winter. Plants which are adapted to low 
temperatures will still be badly stressed if the 
temperature plummets from a high of 40 F in the 
late afternoon to 18 by dark; or if sharp winds join 
in on the abuse (wind chill isnt just a problem 
for us humans); or if they get rained on in low 
temperatures. The greenhouse acts to slow the 
abrupt temperature changes, and to keep wind and 
cold rains at bay.
Remember, however, that the moderating infuence 
of the greenhouse is effective only when we 
are growing naturally cold hardy plants. I have 
harvested lettuces, completely exposed in the 
garden, in mid-December in a fairly benign winter. 
Spinach will often survive a cold winter in the 
garden, and rejuvenate when encouraged by the sun 
come spring (here in Zone 6b). You might say that 
we are using the greenhouse to imitate for naturally 
cold hardy plants like these an unusually mild 
winternot to teleport them to somewhere in the 
tropics.
Two factors make possible the survival of cold 
hardy plants through freezing temperatures. I 
referred above to the way the growing beds store 
solar heat during the day, and can lose that heat 
profigately before the ground starts to freeze. But 
by the point that the ground does start to freeze, 
its morning, and the cycle begins anew. Ive gone 
into my greenhouse many a morning after a 10 
night to fnd only a quarter of an inch of frost on the 
surface of the growing beds. That quarter inch is no 
problemas long as there is no freezing deep into 
the root zone, the plants are not unduly stressed.
Growing in the Winter Greenhouse
photo by Harvey Ussery
Harvey grows as many cover crops in his greenhouse as possible, both to improve the 
soil and as green fodder for his poultry. Note the uses to which he puts his greenhouse in 
addition to growing winter greenery: He keeps a fock of poultry (chickens, ducks, and geese) 
in one end of the greenhouse over winter; gets an early start on warm-season crops like 
tomatoes; and runs an extensive vermicomposting operation in pits dug into the center of 
the greenhouse (under the heavy bin lids you see in the picture). The bins are dug 16 inches 
into the earth down the center of the greenhouse. The plywood lids (3/4 inch on 2x4 framing) 
cover the bins and provide access down the center. Harveys original idea was that he needed 
access down the center anyway, so he wouldnt lose a signifcant amount of growing space if 
he dug them into the earth and put down bin lids heavy enough to support any load, e.g. a 
loaded wheelbarrow.
photo by Harvey Ussery
Lettuces--in an incredible array of sizes, colors, shapes, and textures--are worth growing 
for their beauty alone. They like cool temperatures, rich soil, and a steady supply of soil 
moisture to make sweet, tender salads.
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 31
The other factor is a neat little trick the plants have 
learned, but which is apt to be unsettling the frst 
time the gardener sees it. When the air temperature 
gets below freezing, certain plants such as lettuce 
have learned how to move water out of their cells 
into the intercellular spaces, to prevent rupture of 
the cell walls when the water crystallizes (freezes). 
In this state, the leaves become limp. When the 
gardener comes into the greenhouse after a deep-
cold night, the sight of drooping lettuces seems 
to indicate a disastrous end of the winter growing 
effort. After half an hour of sunlight, however, the 
plants cells rehydrate, and they perk up as bright 
and pretty as they were before their descent into the 
chill.
The Mirror Season
Experienced gardeners may have some diffculty 
adjusting to the paradoxes of winter gardening. 
Unlike in spring, when the season is gloriously 
opening out into greater warmth and longer days, 
in the fall it is shutting down into a time of ever-
greater darkness and deeper chill. The implications 
for growing are tricky, and take some getting 
used to. This reversal in the general trend of the 
season is perhaps the biggest adjustment the winter 
gardener has to make. We have to re-learn many of 
our assumptions, particularly about scheduling our 
crops. Do remember that the biggest challenge is 
apt to be the reduced photoperiod, rather than the 
low temperatures (assuming we make appropriate 
choices of cold hardy crops).
The bad news: During the darkest time of winter, 
there is insuffcient solar energy to support vigorous 
growth. If we have started our plants too late to 
make most of their growth before the short days, 
they will indeed survive the cold temperatures, 
but instead of growing actively will sit and sulk, 
awaiting sunnier days.
The good news: On the other hand, if we get the 
timing right to produce, say, a mature head of 
lettuce by the dark days, the window of opportunity 
for harvest expands enormously. That perfect head 
of lettuce that would demand use it or lose it 
within a matter of days in June, will sit contentedly 
in prime condition, awaiting your pleasure, for two 
or even three months in the middle of winter.
One implication of the dormancy at the heart of the 
winter harvest season: When you start your crops 
in the late summer or early fall, start far more than 
you think you will need. As you make your earliest 
harvests, you will not be able to start new crops, but 
if you have plenty in the bank at that point you 
can continue making generous harvests until longer 
days make possible some late-winter crops.
Watering
It is best to water deeply from time to time (in 
lieu of frequent shallow waterings). Water in the 
morning, as soon as the frost is off the leaves, to 
give the plants time to dry before descending into 
nighttime cold again. Avoid over-watering, which 
makes plants sappy, less able to stand the cold 
and other stresses (and less favorful and nutritious 
as well). Test the soil with your fnger: As long as 
you feel good moisture half an inch or so deep, it is 
better not to water.
Ventilation
It is important to appreciate how hot a closed 
greenhouse can get on a sunny day, even if the 
temperature outside is quite cold. Do not stress your 
plants by leaving the doors to the greenhouse closed 
when it is sunny. I typically shut up my two large 
doors (one at either end) at night, then open them 
wide during the day. If the day is unusually cold, 
blustery, and cloudy, I will prop the doors partially 
open. However, I always ensure there is some air 
movement through the greenhouse during the day.
Incidentally, I found that open doors at either end 
of the structure provide suffcient ventilation during 
the winterexhaust fans were superfuous. I know 
growers with 20 x 96-ft greenhouses who report 
that ventilation is adequate using open doors alone. 
Remember that as the air in the greenhouse heats in 
the sunlight, it will rise and exit the structure, and 
more air will be drawn in from outside, providing 
constant natural air exchange.
Insects
My approach to leaf-eating insects in the 
greenhouse is, as in the gardens and orchard outside, 
not so much about control as about balance. Hence 
I encourage all the fowering plants I can inside the 
greenhouse. I planted yarrow throughout the beds a 
couple of years ago, and it blooms late into the fall 
and early in the spring. Perhaps it is the fowering 
yarrow that encourages the obvious increase in lady 
beetle populationin any case, I now have far less 
trouble with aphids in the late-winter, early-spring 
greenhouse. I also allow unharvested chicories, 
crucifers, and onions (grown from bulbs discarded 
in the kitchen because of sprouting) to fower and 
boost insect populations.
My impression is that the insect season gets an early 
start in the warmth of the spring greenhouse, then 
the lady beetles and their comrades migrate out into 
the garden as it starts to bloom, boosting earlier 
insect diversity there.
And speaking of insects: Be aware that a greenhouse 
provides good habitat for black widow (and of 
course other) spiders. It is important not to leave 
stacks of emptied plant pots and cell-packs lying 
aboutthe dark space between such cast-offs and 
the ground is just where our lady of the shadows 
likes to set up, weaving her scraggly web, making 
a yellowish cocoon for her eggs, and awaiting 
prey. In my greenhouse, the undersides of the 
vermicomposting bin lids are also prime real estate. 
Though feared for her venomous bite, the black 
widow is shy and unaggressive. Just respect her 
need for privacy and watch where you put your 
fngers. Sooner or later youll likely see her. Tell her 
I said hello.
Text and photos copyright 2008 by Harvey Ussery
Harvey Ussery and his wife Ellen live on 2-1/2 
acres near the Blue Ridge in northern Virginia, 
where they produce much of their own food, and 
offer their homestead as model and inspiration to 
others aspiring to the homesteading life. Harvey is a 
regular contributor to Backyard Poultry and Mother 
Earth News. Countryside & Small Stock Journal 
is currently publishing in several installments 
his The Integrated Homestead, based on his 
presentation at the 2007 conference of the Weston 
A. Price Foundation. Visit his website at www.
themodernhomestead.us
photo by Harvey Ussery
Chard (or Swiss chard) is botanically simply another beet (Beta vulgaris), but one bred 
for its beautiful tops which make a nice mess of greens, instead of a bulbous root. Note 
also the lacy foliage of yarrow on the left. Numerous patches of yarrow throughout Harveys 
greenhouse seem to have boosted the lady beetle population and greatly reduced aphid 
opportunists in the late winter, early spring.
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Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 33
by Paul and Sandy Arnold
Pleasant Valley Farm is located in a valley in a rural 
town 25 miles northeast of Saratoga Springs, New 
York. We have been operating it as an organic fruit 
and vegetable farm since 1988.  We have 2 children, 
Robert (age 15) and Kimberly (age 12) who are 
homeschooled and help on the farm.  We own 60 
acres and rent our neighbors 120 acre farm, both 
of which have somewhat limited tillable soil for 
good vegetable production.    We use a total of 6 
acres for vegetable production, 1/2 acre for large 
fruits and  acre for small fruits, and keep another 4 
acres in cover crops for rotation.  We grow a diverse 
selection of more than 40 types of vegetables and 
fruits with organic methods for retail sales at three 
area summer farmers markets and two winter 
farmers markets.
We had outgrown our original 17 x 24 hoop-style 
greenhouse and started building our new 30 x 48 
gutter connect, polycarbonate greenhouse in the 
fall of 2002.  The greenhouse was manufactured 
by Rimol Greenhouse Company to include all the 
details we wanted, including an automatic ridge, 
automatic roll-up sides, and rolling benches.  In 
2004, we installed radiant foor heat and grew on 
the ground for several years.  Then, starting in 2005, 
rolling benches were added over a two year period.  
The rolling benches were equipped with Radiant 
Root heat mats that give uniform heat through a 
series of narrow (3/16) tubes spaced  apart 
that carry the 100 degree water through them.  The 
mats are made of very sturdy black PVC that we 
felt would last our lifetime.  Flats and pots are set 
directly on the mats and through a series of valves, 
we can have a different temperature on each of our 
14 benches.  The rolling benches allow effcient use 
of the greenhouse, by having only one 2 foot aisle 
on each side of the greenhouse. 
The heater for the greenhouse consists of a Takagi 
instant-on variable fame propane-fred unit with a 
range of 30,000 to 175,000 BTUs.  The boiler is 
set up with 5 heating zones, two for the greenhouse 
foor, 2 for the benches (one on each side) and 
one for the small barn attached to the greenhouse, 
which is used as a potting shed and a winter 
washing station. Each zone has its own high-volume 
circulator.  The system also has a heat-exchanger 
which produces warm water.  The warm water, 
which is used to water the seedlings, is benefcial 
for enhanced growth and for saving energy. 
Before late fall production of greens tapers off, we 
begin preparation for production of greens in the 
greenhouse on the heated benches.  Our frst winter 
production was trialed with seedings in February 
2006.  1020 plastic trays were flled with Vermont 
compost potting mix (regular mix) and we seeded 
5 varieties of lettuce and 3 Asian greens (tatsoi, 
mizuna, and mustard), which were used for mesclun 
production.  The trays were seeded weekly and the 
mesclun was sold for $10 per pound in March and 
April.  By May 1
st
, our tunnel greens are ready, and 
the greenhouse production ceases to allow us to 
raise all our transplants for the farm.
In January 2007, we started production of the 
mesclun in trays and added arugula as another 
product to add diversity to our table at the markets.  
We switched to using 13x17 trays that are 3 high, 
which ft perfectly on the 6 foot by 13 foot benches, 
and we also started mixing our own soil, giving us 
very uniform, healthy growth and saved us money.  
In 2007, the arugula was continued weekly for the 
entire year and the production was a great success.  
On November 1
st
 of 2007, we started seeding 
mesclun in hopes of having greens for the markets 
when the outside fall production waned.  
Early winter production seedings (greens for 
December & January) consist of 4 lettuces:  black-
seeded simpson, red sails, red salad bowl, and 
plato II Romaine and 4 Asian Greens:  red mustard, 
ruby-streaks mustard, kyona mizuna, and tatsoi.  
Seven shallow rows are indented per each tray and 
we shoot to have 25 seeds per each row, utilizing 
a Gro-More vibrating hand-seeder (about  tsp of 
seed per tray).  We plant 6 trays of each variety for 
a total of 48 trays per week for mesclun, and also 
plant 12 trays of arugula each week.  The air bench 
thermostats are kept at 40 degrees, which gives the 
soil a temperature of between 50-60 degrees.  Single 
or double P-19 rowcovers are kept over the benches 
on cold nights and on cold, cloudy days.  They 
are removed during warm temperatures and sunny 
days.  The HAF fans are run almost continually to 
control dampness, keep rowcovers dry, and prevent 
diseases.  
The greens are harvested with a Johnnys produce 
knife into 5 gallon buckets, spread across our 
washing table bench, misted, tossed, and bagged 
into vented clear plastic bags with  pound per bag. 
These are sold for $4 per bag ($16 per pound) at 
our 2 weekly farmers markets.  We can get 2 or 3 
cuttings off each tray, then the soil is recycled and 
amended to utilize for potting up large perennials.  
Arugula is harvested similarly, however we put only 
1/8 pound per bag and sell it for $2.50.
We are trialing many new greens and are continually 
learning more each year since our growing system is 
unique.  Some of the new seedings consist of yukina 
savoy, green wave mustard, black summer pac choi, 
mei qing choi, fuyu shomi pac choi, bulls blood 
beets, yellow swiss chard, and also a new lettuce 
mix from Johnnys seeds that has varieties specifc 
for winter growing, giving more color and cold-
weather vigor.  In summary, after our limited years 
of trialing this system, we have had our ups and 
downs of success, but look to perfect it since we feel 
it can be a lucrative venture.  The radiant heat gives 
us the advantage of reduced fuel usage. The demand 
for greens is very high and increasing all the 
time, especially in the winter months.  As we gain 
knowledge on winter growing, we will continue to 
strive to meet this demand. 
Cold Weather Greens Production 
on Radiant-Heated Benches
photo courtesy Pleasant Valley Farm
Winter mesclun grows on radiantly heated benches.
photo courtesy Pleasant Valley Farm
Mesclun on the heated benches and under row cover stays at 65 degrees even though the air 
in the greenhouse is below freezing.
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 34
by Seth Jacobs
We have been farming in Washington County New 
York since 1983.  The most recent turn our business 
has taken is towards growing greens in the winter.  
This winter we will have just over 10,000 sq feet of 
growing area under cover, in three high tunnels.  .  
Two of those tunnels have a ground heating system.  
We will grow baby spinach, a mild and spicy 
mesclun, baby bok choi, and arugula.  Our goal is 
to generate nearly half our income from November 
to May.   The story of how we got to this point on 
our farm is about markets primarily, and about our 
preferences and skills as growers.  
For years we farmed as many market growers in 
New England have done- growing and selling 
enough on 10-15 acres in the 5 months from June 
through October to generate an income to cover  
the entire year.  We have marketed in several ways, 
including CSA, bulk storage vegetable sales in the 
fall, retail at markets, and wholesale.  For the last 
10 years we have settled on a mix direct retail at 
farmers markets and wholesale to a medium sized 
natural food store in Albany, NY.  To stay proftable 
at our scale of production we have found we need to 
keep wholesale marketing down to about 1/3 of total 
sales.  
While our climate and soils certainly allow for the 
creation of enough value in the fve month growing 
Farming 
Winter 
Greens
season, this style of growing makes for a very 
busy growing season, with a labor force that must 
fuctuate a lot over the year, and income that when 
plotted over the year looks like a classic extreme 
bell curve.  It also creates a basic disharmony in our 
lives at this point.   We are now raising two young 
children, and during their summer break we are too 
busy to spend much time with them.  
About fve or six years ago our Farmers Market 
in Troy, NY, decided to try a year round market.  
An urban renewal project from the early 1970s 
provided us with an excellent venue- the Atrium in 
downtown Troy is a large, naturally lit indoor space 
with covered parking, lots of space, surrounded by 
other retail stores, coffee shops, and a post offce. 
Our strategy for this frst winter market went 
something like this:  We had some experience with 
season extension under row covers, and we had 
built our frst high tunnel which was a Ledgewood 
model, 21 X120.  This was a simple structure, no 
heat, single layer poly, and manual roll up sides.  
We built this tunnel for tomato production, and had 
had success with that crop because it gave us a one 
month jump on the season, and eliminated the blight 
problem.  We also much preferred the permanent 
overhead support provided by the structure of the 
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photo by Seth Jacobs
This is some of the more than 10,000 square feet of high tunnel space Seth has 
under cover to grow greens for winter sales.
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 35
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Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 36
house- we fnd it makes supporting the tomato 
plants much simpler.  We also used this house for 
early greens production in the spring, and squeezed 
in some crops, basil and greens, in between the 
tomatoes before they grew too large.  For this frst 
winter market we planted this house to spinach.  We 
also planned to bring storage crops such as carrots, 
beets, onions, potatoes, butternut squash, and 
shallots.  
The spinach production has gone something 
like this: We fertilize with heavy applications of 
compost.  We fll the house in two plantings, the 
dates we use at our latitude are just before and just 
after the 1
st
 of October- say Sept 25
th
 and October 
5
th
.  We plant close and densely, using resistant 
varieties is important. The frst planting is ready by 
the middle of November, and the spinach continues 
to grow until late December.  The second planting 
is ready by mid December, and is stockpiled fully 
grown for harvesting during the part of winter when 
there is no growth in this unheated house. Growth 
restarts in February- early or late depending on the 
severity of the winter.  The amazing thing about 
spinach is that it seems able withstand any low 
temperature.  This unheated house obviously gets 
quite cold at night, thought the ground never freezes 
more than and inch or two down.  When frozen 
the spinach cannot be harvested, but once it thaws 
is looks great.  During a cold (or cloudy and cold) 
spell we will use row covers to keep it from freezing 
ahead of that weeks harvest.  We have been able 
to cut this spinach once or twice again in February 
and March.  Often some of this spring crop is 
wholesaled, as growth rates at that time exceed the 
capacity of our retail markets.   The total yields have 
been very impressive from this low input, unheated 
house. 
The availability of fresh spinach at our frst winter 
market was very well received by our customers, 
That frst year the market quickly grew to the point 
where we could sell more spinach than at a busy 
summer market, which makes sense given that we 
were the only game in town in the fresh local greens 
department.  For the next few years we perfected 
this spinach production method, and grew and 
stored enough root crops and squash to supply this 
ever-growing market. We saw that the economics 
of the spinach in this low input system were quite 
good.   
The Next Step
As the Market grew demand exceeded supply, so 
we built another high tunnel, this one a larger Rimol 
brand, 30 X 120, with automatic roll up sides, 
also unheated. That frst year in this house we also 
planted some of our mesclun and arugula in the fall, 
and with the use of row covers kept production up 
until mid December.  What happened next is when 
things really got interesting for us.  Some of the 
row cover was left on the ground where it had last 
been put when the arugula was uncovered the last 
time in the fall.  When we lifted this in the spring, 
there was a long row of Arugula that had survived 
the winter under multiple layers of row cover.  It 
was at this point that we realized that perhaps with 
a small amount of additional heat, just enough to 
keep the ground from freezing, we might expand 
our production of winter greens.  There is not much 
new under the sun in agriculture, its all been done 
before, but this is when it occurred to us that a 
small amount of additional heat might work for our 
situation. 
That spring we dug up the ground in the new house, 
and installed a ground heating system using basic 
radiant foor materials, and oil-fred hot water.  We 
buried the pex tubing underground at 1 intervals 
16-18 inches under, deep enough so that tractor 
tillage was still an option.  The next winter we 
planted a variety of winter greens- but not lettuce.  
We used wire hoops and 3 layers of row covers to 
cover the whole house at night.  We maintained a 
soil temperature of 47 degrees 6 inches under the 
surface, and found that under the row covers at night 
the temperature never dropped below 27 degrees. 
We burned 400 gallons of oil, 90% of it between 
November 15
th
 and February 1
st
.  We have found 
that by February, no matter how cold the nighttime 
temperatures, if the weather is sunny there is enough 
solar gain during the day (5 degrees of soil temp 
rise) that no additional heat is necessary. 
The next two years we worked on our growing 
techniques for all these new (to us) winter crops. 
Many of the mix ingredients are the same as 
in the warm season, with a few changes made 
to accommodate the different light levels and 
temperatures.  The planting schedule is critical for 
continuous production.  Succession planting begins 
the frst of October, and proceeds weekly, as we 
work our way into November, seedings become 
more frequent, and by mid-November plantings 
are every three days.  Unlike in the spring, when 
plantings need to be stretched out for continuous 
harvest, at this time of year 3 days apart in the 
seeding schedule can translate into 3 week intervals 
in the harvest.  Most crops are harvested 2-3 times 
before renewing the beds with new seedings later 
in the winter.  Productivity really jumps in the 
late winter and early spring, when light levels, 
temperature, and day length are up.  In February 
and March, production is way up, and in late 
March, April, and early May, which are usually 
considered the lean times for local food around here, 
the production from these established, well rooted 
crops, many of which were planted in January and 
February, is off the charts, and in addition to all the 
mixes our market table is full of lots of large greens, 
which have grown too large for mixes, and are sold 
on their own- things like chard and kale.
Regarding spinach:  As mentioned, spinach 
production from the unheated house was very good, 
but when we planted spinach in the heated house the 
results were even more  impressive.  In March and 
April spinach planted in January can be cut every 
other week, with high very quality and quantity.  
Final Notes
     Needless to say, the addition of a wider variety 
of fresh greens in midwinter was met with great 
enthusiasm by our customers at market. We can sell 
2-3 times as many greens at a winter market vs. a 
summer market. Prices are slightly higher then as 
well.  Demand has again exceeded our supply, so 
we just completed our third and largest tunnel, a 
Rimol 34X 120, also heated.  We enjoy gardening 
in the winter, the greenhouses are a cheerful place to 
be.  The type of work now being done in the winter 
is all for the highest value crops- greens! We have 
cut back on out fall root crops- no storage carrots or 
potatoes- eliminating these large crops during the 
growing season means we need less labor then.  Our 
winter labor now will be less washing of roots and 
more work in the greenhouses. Our labor force is 
more oriented towards year round part time workers. 
By offering year round work we can keep more 
experienced and committed people.  
As oil prices rise by large percentages, we will have 
to keep an eye on costs.  Our two heated houses, 
which last year would have cost $2,000 to heat, will 
now cost $4,000. We could add supplemental wood 
heat, or increase nighttime insulation. Covering the 
earth inside these houses at night is critical. Oil use 
would be 3 or 4 times as much without a covering 
system.  As soon as solar gain stops as the sun goes 
down, which around the solstice can be as early as 
3:30 pm, the covers need to be in place. Currently 
we use 3-4 layers of row cover, and are working on 
a system to roll the covers on and off; as we expand, 
covering and uncovering becomes a bigger chore. 
No doubt our farm will continue to change, well 
see how all this plays out this year.  We defnitely 
feel less pressure to produce this summer, and are 
glad to concentrate on the crops we grow best, and 
have more time for family activities.  Our hope is 
that even during the winter we can earn enough to 
pay off debt incurred building these rather expensive 
high tunnels and heating systems.
photo by Seth Jacobs
Greens cannot be picked until they are thawed, but then they look great!
photo by Seth Jacobs
Greens are well received by winter customers, and command a good price.
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 37
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 38
Service.   A high point this year was the sold out 
local dinner on Saturday night.  All the food for this 
delicious meal was local and organic: produced on 
a certifed organic farm in one of the seven NOFA 
chapter states.
Kirsten Bower of NOFA/Vermont was honored 
as the NOFA Person of the Year for over eighteen 
years of  work for the organization.  Unfortunately, 
due to an injury, she was unable to be present and 
the ceremonial award shovel was presented to her 
likeness in the form of a smiling, waving, cardboard 
effgy! Also honored was Juanita Nelson, a long 
time supporter of the civil rights and local food 
movement.  Juanita briefy addressed the audience 
at the Annual Meeting on Friday night.
When the hundreds of people who attended the 
conference headed home, there was no doubt they 
took with them new knowledge and insight to farm 
and garden organically. There is no doubt that they 
will help to bring about the important changes in 
food production of which Arden Andersen and Mark 
McAffee spoke and to help spread NOFAs message 
well beyond the three day conference.  
photo by Jonathan von Ranson
Potter takes a moment away from her display to tend her baby.
photo by Jonathan von Ranson
Those three careful listeners were at the Farming without Fossil Fuels workshop led by 
Molly Merrett and Lisa DePiano.
Neptunes_18H  11/13/07  9:07 AM  Page 1
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Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 39
Solar Gardening: Growing Vegetables Year-
Round the American Intensive Way
by Leandre Poisson and Gretchen Vogel Poisson
published by Chelsea Green, 1994
www.chelseagreen.com
paperback, 288 pages
$31.96 sale price
review by Jack Kittredge
This is a classic (in the sense that Eliot Colemans 
book the Four-Season Harvest is a classic) by 
a couple that went back to the land in New 
Hampshire at the end of the 1960s. They spent 
decades raising their own food and experimenting 
with ways to use solar energy not only for growing 
but also for house heat, cooking, hot water, and 
more. They drew inspiration from the Nearings, 
attended early NOFA gatherings, and by the time 
this book was written in 1994 had students focking 
to learn from them. 
Leandre taught at the University of New Hampshire 
before becoming a fulltime homesteader and had 
familiarized himself with a number of different 
growing systems developed by indigenous and 
European cultures. He was fascinated by the 
marais market gardeners who thrived on the 
outskirts of Paris as it grew to a population of over 2 
million during the nineteenth century. Their system 
(also called the French Intensive system) extended 
the season by growing plants in solar microclimates 
created by bell-shaped glass enclosures called 
cloches. Extra heat was added to the mix with 
scoops of rotting horse manure collected from 
the well-littered streets of Paris. According to one 
scholar, at the height of the marais system (about 
1880) one-sixteenth of the land area of Paris was 
under cultivation by some 1800 marais farmers 
averaging just under 2 acres each and using over 
6,000,000 cloches to produce more than 100,000 
tons of extended season vegetables and fruits. That 
is some 55.5 tons (111,000 pounds) of food per 
solarize their immediate environment. Pods go over 
a bed for the same purpose. Pods atop pod extenders 
create a tiny greenhouse in which you can grow and 
work.
The Poissons divide crops into heat-loving, cool-
hardy, and cold-tolerant crops. Each of those groups 
is further subdivided into short-season, mid-season, 
long-season, and perennial crops. This organization 
is important for following their rotations later, as 
they step you through each month in continuous 
gardens in the northern, moderate, and southern 
belts of North America. 
In the northern zone, for instance, where most of 
New England lies, in January one harvests kale, 
collards, mustard greens and leeks for fresh crops 
from an insulated pod/extender bed, and digs up 
carrots, parsnips and salsify from another pod 
marking the root crops and keeping the soil from 
freezing. One also keeps the snow off the outdoor 
appliances and starts lettuce and spinach inside the 
house. In February, as soon as weeds appear in the 
insulated bed, the soil is warm enough to germinate 
short season cold greens such as corn salad or 
mustard greens. Keep harvesting your fresh greens 
and root crops to make room for the new plantings, 
and gradually remove any mulch to let the sun 
warm the soil. In March you empty the insulated 
beds and direct-seed short and mid-season cool-
hardy and cold-tolerant vegetables. By the end of 
March you can start seed for celery or members of 
the cabbage and onion families. This is also a good 
time to clear some snow off your beds and set out 
the cones, mulching around the edges, to preheat 
the soil. You can also use the cones to force greens 
from over-wintered vegetables like Swiss chard or 
endive roots, or force perennials such as asparagus, 
rhubarb, or sea kale. 
Skipping the warmer months of April through 
October, we pick up again with the Poissons garden 
after Halloween. In November you harvest Brussels 
sprouts, winter cabbage and root crops, and either 
dig up and store or mulch and mark with a stick any 
root crops you have selected for spring forcing. In 
Book 
Reviews
farmer, or close to 60,000 pounds per acre.
Poisson has designed a number of modern devices 
to duplicate marais productivity in the northern belt 
of the U.S. Where the French used glass, he prefers 
the lighter (and easier to work with) fberglass. The 
three growing aids he uses are cones (analogous to 
cloches with a 36 inch diameter at the base), pods 
(similar to modern cold frames and 4 x 8 feet at the 
base), and pod extenders (structures to raise and 
widen the effect of a pod to 8 x 8 feet at the base). 
Cones go over one or a small number of plants to 
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 40
December you neither plant nor transplant anything. 
You still harvest fresh vegetables from the insulated 
pod/extender beds, and from under mulch in the 
open garden. Mostly, however, you eat storage crops 
from the root cellar, and squash, onions, garlic and 
shallots. 
Leandre is the kind of guy who gets things free 
and fgures out how to use them creatively. He 
constructs energy budgets for materials and works 
out whether more effort went into creating the 
material than its use will save. He loves recycling 
things and Im sure would be a frst-class dump 
picker (if they still allowed that noble but vanishing 
profession). He has put together the price of making 
his appliances from new material  though he points 
out that should not be necessary in many cases. The 
4 x 8 pod should run you $240, he fgures. A Solar 
Cone would be about $25. A full 8 x 8 pod extender 
would be as much as $300. Remember, these are 
1994 prices. 
The current equivalent of these prices may seem 
hefty when you multiply them by the number 
of cones and pods you would like to work with. 
Certainly in the last 14 years hoop house and row 
cover makers have shown what inexpensive poly 
flms and spun-bonded fbers can do for growers to 
extend the season. On a one year, square foot basis 
it may be hard to justify the Poisson appliances. 
But their mobility, durability, and fexibility lend 
them to a second look. This is a fascinating book 
and holds many secrets and tips from 2 lifetimes of  
northeastern growing. 
Sacred Stewardship: Regaining Our 
Spiritual Partnership With The Food We Eat
by Charles Hubbard and Maggie Carruthers, 2007
Published by Maggie Carruthers
www.sacredstewardship.net
paperback, 155 pages
$27.50 CDN
review by Maria Erb
Sacred Stewardship: Regaining our Spiritual 
Partnership with the Food we Eat by Charles 
Hubbard and Maggie Carruthers is a very personal 
look at what it means to farm biodynamically with 
an extra emphasis on the more mystical elements 
of biodynamic agriculture.  For anyone trying to 
fnd out more about this involved subject, it can 
be a mighty task to learn about the biodynamic 
sprays and preps, when to use them, and what their 
function is without even opening the astral drawer 
of cosmic pipes, spirit guides, elemental beings, and 
radionics -- but that is the focus of this book.  And it 
makes for a very interesting offering from the shelf 
of often hard to fnd publications on biodynamics.
The book is a self-published effort, spiral 
bound, with a workbook feel to it.  Many of the 
chapters include space for notes and exercises to 
do to increase your ability to be more aware of 
different types of energies -- around plants, in the 
atmosphere, in your body etc. Sort of what you 
might fnd in a beginning Qigong class when they 
tell you to stand with your palms a few inches apart 
and feel the energy between your hands.   The book 
does briefy describe a bit about Hubbards journey 
from farming conventionally in England to farming 
biodynamically in Nova Scotia but doesnt offer 
anything detailed enough for anyone who actually 
wants to know how to migrate from organic to 
biodynamic. The authors are part of an intentional 
community in Canada which is centered on the 
teachings of Saint Francis of Assisi and they spend 
most of the book talking about the importance of 
pyramid shaped structures (greenhouses), the golden 
mean, earth circles, labyrinths, cosmic pipes and 
other metaphysical subjects.  So be prepared to go a 
little X-Files for most of the books 155 pages.
The Sacred Stewardship book also comes with an 
audio CD that contains some text and audio fles 
with supplemental resources. The frst fle is a PDF 
with instructions on how to create a biodynamic 
compost pile using the preps obtained from 
the Josephine Porter Institute and the second text 
fle is a PDF with links to various websites on 
food vitality, earth circles, where to obtain metal 
corners for pyramids, how to build a labyrinth and 
other topics touched on in the book.  The CD also 
contains two guided meditations Meditation with 
Cosmos and Meditation with Mother Earth. 
The book includes some photos of the earth circle, 
garden wheel, pyramid greenhouse, Fibonacci cross, 
and other structures described in the book and also 
includes pictures of life on the farm  lush foliage, 
vibrant veggies, and peaceful animals with shiny 
coats.  
If youre not fortunate enough to have a lightworker 
and animal communicator like Maggie Carruthers 
in your household, then perhaps reading about what 
its like to have one nearby will at least make you 
think you should learn a little bit more about feng 
shui.  As hard to put into practice as this stuff is, its 
still fascinating.  And the fact that someone actually 
has created such a sacred space is sublime. I give 
them a lot of credit and I do hope theyll share a bit 
more with us in the future, perhaps picking out one 
of the many topics covered in the book and going 
into greater detail with more photos.  Personally, 
I feel the type of material presented in this book 
would beneft from a massive multimedia overhaul.  
The book is text heavy and since much of the 
information will be new and somewhat puzzling to 
most readers, a lot of it could be better delivered 
using short videos (which could be included on a 
companion DVD or made available on the Sacred 
Stewardship website http://sacredstewardship.
net).  Walking the labyrinth visually or watching 
some of the ceremonies described in the book would 
make this material spring to life and have an impact 
that just doesnt come across easily in the current 
format.  But for anyone who wants to work at it, 
digging through Sacred Stewardship will root out 
some worthwhile fare.
Managing Water: Avoiding Crisis in 
California 
by Dorothy Green
University of California Press, 2007
review by Larry Siegel
Not quite academic (footnote-free and generally 
lacking documentation), Managing Water is 
nonetheless a dry read.  (One would hope a book 
about water would not be dry.)  Focusing on the 
greater Los Angeles area, the author at the outset 
summarizes the sources of water supplies.  This is 
followed by interminable descriptions of many of 
the hundreds of water agencies operating in the area. 
Sections on water use effciency and water quality 
were a bit more interesting.  All of three pages are 
devoted to providing the elements of a sustainable 
statewide water policy.  Maps, charts, and 
photographs abound but they are poorly reproduced 
and too busy with detail to be useful to the casual 
reader.  It is bewildering why the author did not 
pursue matters of agriculture more extensively, since 
it consumes the lions share of the states waters.
I am bemused by the fact that the book reached 
the hallowed halls of The Natural Farmers 
headquarters.  Managing Water will be of interest 
to but a small number of readers and I do not 
imagine any of them residing anywhere but southern 
California.  For an alternative look at water, I would 
recommend Mayordomo: Chronicles of an Acequia 
in Northern New Mexico by Stanley Crawford.  
Crawford was, may still be, a writer and truck 
farmer who established roots in rural, Hispanic 
New Mexico.  (His Garlic Testament is also 
highly recommended.)  An acequia is a community 
irrigation ditch.  Crawford spent several years as the 
mayordomo, the ditch manager, and recounts issues 
of water while wallowing in it.  Dry it is not.
Kitchen Literacy: How We Lost Knowledge of 
Where Food Comes from and Why We Need to 
Get it Back
by Ann Vileisis
Island Press, 2008
331 pages
review by Winton Pitcoff
An advertisement in a popular womens 
magazine advocated for buying foods as near the 
unmanufactured state as possible  pepper in the 
berry, coffee unground, honey in the comb, fruits 
for jellies. Nothing revolutionary there, really  its 
what those of us who try to keep aware of our food 
consumption already do as a way of pushing back 
against over-processed foods. But that text, from 
a column in Good Housekeeping magazine, was 
printed in 1886.
Its evidence that the struggle between consumers 
maintaining control over or even awareness of 
what they eat and food corporations endeavoring to 
produce food more cheaply while concealing their 
processing techniques is hardly new. That we have 
lost touch with how our food is grown, processed, 
packaged, shipped and sold is no accident, says 
Ann Vileisis in Kitchen Literacy. Rather, it 
is the result of a covenant of ignorance forged 
between consumers who prioritize convenience, and 
manufacturers constantly seeking less expensive 
ways of producing the food we need.
The book begins with details of the food preparation 
habits of a homemaker in 1790, with evidence 
culled from the diaries of Martha Ballard of Maine. 
Vileisis paints a picture of a table laden with 
foods of which Ballard had intimate knowledge of 
their provenance  her own garden, a neighbors 
pasture, a local millers stones. Her cooking process 
involved simple and effcient methods and were far 
more than a chore  they were a key part of daily 
life.
The growth of the urban middle class in the mid 
1800s prompted a profound shift from such 
awareness, says Vileisis, with shopping markets 
replacing local farms and domestic help stepping in 
frequently to provide labor. When industrialization 
happened toward the end of the century, offering 
domestic workers far more appealing opportunities 
for employment, homemakers were faced with 
having to re-learn how to shop and cook.
Publications aimed at homemakers stepped in, and 
many of the articles from this time seem familiar 
 they encouraged knowledge of where food came 
from and eating only what was fresh and ripe 
at the time, for instance  but as transportation, 
refrigeration and sterile packaging became more 
commonplace, the national food system took hold 
and quickly began to cancel out such lessons. Labels 
bearing pictures of bucolic pastures full of plants 
and animals began to adorn cans of processed meat 
and vegetables, and succeeded in making shoppers 
feel re-connected to the agrarian life, even if those 
images belied the actual feedlots or factory vats that 
the food inside the cans came from.
The book details the rise of preservatives, 
pesticides, health regulations and advertising, all as 
part of an analysis of consumers seemingly constant 
interest in keeping aware of what they eat, coupled 
with their growing unwillingness to challenge 
the systems that feed them. This is where Vileisis 
refers to the covenant of ignorance that shielded 
shoppers from knowing unsavory details about their 
foods; [and] also shielded food producers from 
public scrutiny.
The 1960s saw the rise of kitchen countertrends, 
with a gourmet food movement, heightened 
ecological awareness, and an increase in sentiment 
that foods were being tampered with at the 
expense of taste, with large corporations benefting 
fnancially from that loss. The rise of natural and 
organic foods are chronicled in the book, and 
cursory attention is paid to the re-emergence of 
small farms, CSAs and the local food movement.
Vileisis is a historian, and her deconstruction of 
the time period between 1790 and 1950 is the 
best part of this book. Her coverage of the current 
state of the food culture is brief, however, and she 
offers little in the way of optimism for any large 
scale transformation of the ignorance she says 
plagues the food chain. The ending feels rushed, 
with a few snippets about organizations doing good 
work and an admonition to consumers to be more 
engaged in the public policy process that regulates 
the food industry, but little else. Still, the history 
that precedes this fnal chapter is thorough and 
fascinating, and well worth reading for anyone 
seeking to understand just how weve gotten so far 
removed from our agrarian roots.
Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 41
by Jack Kittredge
Earlier this summer I was invited to attend the 
Organic Summit. This is a three-day event in 
June at which organic farmers, certifers, and 
representatives of organic groups such as OMRI 
(the Organic Materials Research Institute), OFRF 
(the Organic Farming Research Foundation), The 
Organic Center, the Community Food Security 
Coalition, the Center for Food Safety and the 
Rodale Institute get to mix and mingle with middle 
managers (and sometimes founders) of such Organic 
Industry companies as Whitewave Foods, Horizon 
Organic, the Organic Trade Association, Honest T, 
Organic Valley, Target (Target? Yes, Target!), Small 
Planet Foods, Alberts Organics, Kroger, Smucker, 
Dagoba Organic Chocolate, Safeway, and Coca-
Cola (Coca-Cola? Yes, Coca-Cola!)
There were about 160 of us there, fairly evenly 
mixed between players from the Industry and the 
broad set of farmers, researchers and policy people 
representing the Movement, if you will. The primary 
purpose of the event, besides being educated by 
the plenaries, panels, and break-out presentations, 
seemed to be to mix these diverse folks together 
so they arent quite strangers to each other, and 
avoid another disastrous split in the organic world 
such as happened a couple of years ago around the 
controversial Congressional amendments sponsored 
by OTA to the Organic Foods Production Act.
The Organic Summit is put on by New Hope 
Natural Media, publishers of such Industry 
journals as Delicious Living Magazine, Functional 
Ingredients Magazine, The Natural Foods 
Merchandiser, and Nutrition Business Journal, in 
partnership with the Organic Farming Research 
Foundation  created by the California Certifed 
Organic Farmers and dedicated to funding research 
that furthers organic farming. 
Together they have raised serious funding from 
sponsors like Horizon Organic (Dean Foods), Silk 
(Whitewave Foods), Origins Organics (an Este 
Lauder personal care company), Cascadian Farm 
(General Mills), and Muir Glen (General Mills) to 
put on this event at an upscale hotel and conference 
center in the trendy heart of the organic food 
industry  Boulder, Colorado. Most of the industry 
people paid hefty fees to register, eat and sleep at 
the event. Many of the farming contingent were 
invited guests or speakers who were subsidized by 
the organizers (including our own Steve Gilman, 
speaking on the Domestic Fair Trade Movement).
The opening keynote featured the global president 
of Origins Organics talking about the growth of the 
natural organic personal care industry in the last 
couple of years (growing faster than organic foods). 
A key to her companys success was fnding an Iowa 
farmer who could help them develop an organic 
emulsifying agent from soy lecithin that got rid of 
the oily feel of their products on human skin. 
I could relate to the next presentation a little better. 
John Ikerd, professor emeritus of agricultural 
economics at the University of Missouri, delivered 
a passionate sermon about the importance of local 
food and the refreshing values that it represents: 
Honesty, Responsibility, Compassion and Respect. 
Tom Philpott, Grist blogger and part-time farmer, 
backed him up with personal recollections of the 
power of the locavore movement. This was soon 
further emphasized by a tour of the thriving Boulder 
Farmers Market, conducted by member Steve Ela, 
Attending 
The 
Organic 
Summit
raiser of peaches, cherries, apples and pears on the 
Western Slope of the Rockies, about 6 hours further 
west.  
The Boulder Farmers Market is one of the more 
impressive ones Ive seen around the country 
comparable to Ithacas or that in Washington 
DCs Dupont Circle. All sorts of stunning produce 
was heaped high on tables, as well as amazing sweet 
cherries, colorful fowers, wines, pastries, bottled 
and packaged value-added products along with 
ready-to-eat granolas, cookies, confections, and 
drinks. A constant crowd of young families, students 
and older couples strolled past in a festive mood, 
stopping often to shop. And this was just Wednesday 
evening -- Im told its twice as big on Saturdays!
Two more days followed of presentations and 
discussions. Among my favorite were Fred 
Kirschenmann, North Dakota grain farmer talking 
about the importance of not squeezing out mid-
sized farms in the fght over small local versus 
industrial operations, and Jim Thomas from ETC 
Group warning about the rapid development of 
nanotechnology  including in organic food and its 
packaging  and the need for caution in proceeding 
with this untested new technology.
I was also interested to see just how rapidly this 
market is growing. There were presentations 
on a retirement community designed around 
permaculture and organic gardens in Costa Rica 
with units for $300,000 and up, a traditional French 
organic wine company now, for environmental 
reasons, packaging their product in aluminum 
tetra-paks which are more recyclable than glass 
and a ffth of the weight, and stories by the founders 
about selling a start-up organic chocolate business 
to Hersheys and a bottled organic tea company to 
Coca-Cola.
Was the Organic Summit a success? I came away 
realizing that the Industry players are often 
individuals with passion and commitment to a better 
earth. I also realized that the corporations that are 
rapidly moving into this marketplace are learning 
how to culture it and grow the small organic 
companies that they have bought to give them 
entry. Will the farmers concerns for high standards 
and the long-term interests of the organic name 
prevail over temptations to make a quick buck by 
lowering the threshold and allowing a synthetic dye 
here or caking agent there? That is a tougher call. 
American corporations are notorious for fxating on 
the short-term for growth and returns, which is in 
strong contrast to the long-term thinking necessary 
for building soil, cleaning water and reestablishing 
biodiversity. 
But it certainly cant hurt that we can talk to each 
other, enjoy common experiences, and try to fnd 
joint values and goals that let us work together 
despite the pressures and demands of the immediate 
moment.  
photo by Jylle Lardaro
John Ikerd, professor emeritus at the University of Missouri, speaks with Jerry DeWitt, 
director of the Leopold Center for Sustainable Agriculture, 
and Gary Zimmer of Wisconsins Bio-Ag consulting frm.
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Th e   Nat ur al   Far me r F a l l ,   2 0 0 8 42
by Dorothy Suput, 
Executive Director, The Carrot Project
We paid for our land with our credit card.
-- Becky, a New York farmer
For todays small, midsized, and limited-resource 
farmers, fnding suffcient capital to fnance 
their businesses can be a challenge. Tightening 
regulations, limited USDA-Farm Service Agency 
budgets, and consolidation of lending institutions 
have resulted in fewer lenders with agricultural 
expertise or mandates. Community development 
fnance institutions (CDFI) fnance many small 
businesses, but were pioneered to address urban 
issues and typically have little or no agricultural 
expertise. The dominant agricultural lenders in the 
Northeast do offer credit, but do not adequately 
serve small and midsized farm operators who run 
start-ups, want to expand their operations, have 
unique business models, or lack adequate collateral. 
The Carrot Project is a not-for-proft organization 
dedicated to making loans and guarantees available 
to small and midsized farmers, as well as to limited-
resource farmers and those using ecologically 
friendly practices. As part of a study to better 
understand the fnancing obstacles facing small and 
midsized farms, 700 farmers, in New England and 
New York, responded to a survey about fnancing. 
The study found that 25% of small farmers who 
applied for fnancing cant get the money they need 
and that small farmers may beneft from alternative 
fnancing services and business technical assistance. 
Short- and intermediate-termed loans at a median 
amount of nearly $30,000 are sought by farmers, 
along with fexible payment options, additional 
security, and farm real estate fnancing at a median 
amount of $165,000. Findings also identifed 
interest in equity fnancing. Their answers make it 
clear that there is a need for new forms of technical 
and fnancial assistance that address the needs, 
particularly, of start ups and expanding businesses.
Debt Financing
The farms most likely to apply for operating or 
capital fnancing were those with managers or 
operators with more than fours years of farming 
experience, higher gross farm incomes, and more 
mature businesses. This profle was strongest for 
operators with gross farm incomes of $117,000 
or more who applied for operating and capital 
fnancing at 60 percent and 46 percent respectively 
(Table 1).  This is at least double the application 
rate for all respondents. Yet, according to the 2002 
Agricultural Census, New York and New England 
farms grossing more than $100,000 per year make 
up 15% of the farm population. Farms operating 
less than 10 years were most likely to apply for 
fnancing for farm real estate (Table 2).  
Table 1: Applied for fnancing by gross farm 
income. 
Table 2: Applied for fnancing by years in business. 
Are Northeast Farms in a Financing Fix?
Reasons for Denial
Not surprisingly, the survey indicated that securing 
fnancing is diffcult for farmers with limited capital, 
lack of credit history, and insuffcient cash fow. 
When measured by stage of business, start-up 
operations were the most likely businesses in our 
survey to be denied fnancing, but they applied at 
lower rates than expanding or mature businesses. 
Farms with the highest gross farm income were the 
least likely to be denied fnancing. 
Table 3: Rates of denial by stage of business.
It should also be noted that nine percent of all 
respondents to the survey were asked to provide 
additional security to obtain operating or capital 
fnancing. Eighty percent of the farms needing 
additional security were in the three lowest gross 
income categories. This means that programs 
addressing lack of collateral could be useful to 
farms within different income categories.
Table 4: Farms needing security to obtain fnancing 
by gross farm income. 
In The Carrot Project survey, start-up farms were 
the most likely to be denied fnancing. However, 
because of their relatively low loan application 
rate, the number of start-ups denied fnancing 
is comparable to the number of expanding 
businesses (See Table 5).  Expanding businesses 
are different from starts ups in that they share 
more characteristics of the average respondent.  
Expanding farm businesses had income levels 
that were similar to the average, but were slightly 
more likely to be in the highest or lowest income 
categories. Sixty-four percent of expanding 
businesses were operating between 5 to 20 years 
versus 42 percent in the general survey population. 
Table 5: The percent of farms denied fnancing by 
stage of business.
It is important for organizations intending to 
support small and midsized farms to know the 
reasons why farm businesses are denied fnancing 
before they can address fnancing gaps through 
business technical assistance, alternative fnancial 
services, or both. In general, insuffcient cash fow 
and lack of a reasonable business plan may be 
addressed with technical assistance.  For example, 
a farms business can be examined to determine if 
expenses could be lowered or profts increased by 
adjusting certain aspects of the business and thereby 
increasing cash fow. Lack of credit history, lenders 
unfamiliarity with a specifc business enterprise, or 
lack of collateral might be addressed by alternative 
fnancing programs designed to respond to these 
situations. 
Diffculty of Obtaining Financing
The perceived ease of obtaining fnancing was 
lowest among start-up operations, average among 
expanding businesses, and highest for mature 
businesses. Respondents perceived that fnancing 
with fexible payments was the most diffcult to 
obtain. This fnding refected prior research, done 
through lender focus groups, which found a need 
for fexible payment schedules such as deferring 
principal payments, skipped payments, and annual 
payments. This information is important because it 
indicates that fexible payment options should be 
considered when developing or modifying existing 
fnancing programs. 
Equity Financing
Equity fnancing is a strategy in which an investor 
gives capital (cash) to a farmer in exchange for 
partial ownership of the farm or for an agreed upon 
share of the farms future profts. There might 
be an agreement for the farmer to buy back the 
share of the farm that was sold to the investor. The 
responses to our survey provide an important initial 
benchmark for how farmers perceive this little-used 
fnancing option in agriculture. Thirteen percent 
of survey respondents expressed that they were 
interested or very interested in equity fnancing if 
there were an option to share profts or buy back 
shares. When including farmers who said they 
were somewhat interested, the number increased 
to 30 percent. Start-ups and expanding businesses 
expressed the greatest interest in equity fnancing.  
This could indicate that for dynamic and growing 
businesses, available capital is inadequate. It may 
also refect receptiveness to new types of fnancing 
arrangements.
 
Table 6: Interest in equity fnancing by stage of 
business.
At a time where established farmers in the Northeast 
are rapidly aging, and young, entry-level farmers 
are needed to replace them, it is not a good sign 
that between 20 and 25 percent of the farmers 
we surveyed who had requested fnancing were 
denied. And while The Carrot Project concedes 
that not every request for farm fnancing could or 
should be granted, our research indicates that farm 
start-ups and expanding businesses are particularly 
vulnerable. It is our intent to begin meeting the 
fnancing needs of this important but underserved 
population.  Currently we are talking with different 
farm organizations and lenders about building 
upon or starting targeted fnancing and technical 
assistance programs in New York and New England. 
If you would like to read the complete report on 
which this article is based or learn more about the 
work of The Carrot Project, please visit our website 
at www.thecarrotproject.org. If you would like a 
copy of the report mailed to you, please contact 
Dorothy Suput at 617-666-9637. 
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