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Advances in Environmental Biology, 6(7): 2151-2157, 2012

ISSN 1995-0756

This is a refereed journal and all articles are professionally screened and reviewed

ORIGINAL ARTICLE

Effects of UV Absorbers on Cotton Fabrics

1

Nigar Merdan, 2Dilara Koak, 3Burcu Y. ahinbakan, 3Metin Yksek

Faculty of Engineering and Design, Istanbul Commerce University, Istanbul, Turkey

Textile Engineering Department, Faculty of Technology, Marmara University, 34722, Goztepe, Kadkoy,
Istanbul, Turkey
3
Department of Textile Education, Faculty of Technical Education, Marmara University, 34722, Goztepe,
Kadkoy, Istanbul, Turkey
2

Nigar Merdan, Dilara Koak, Burcu Y. ahinbakan, Metin Yksek; Effects of UV Absorbers on
Cotton Fabrics
ABSTRACT
Due to the ozone layer depletion, increased levels of UV rays start having wide ranging impacts on human
health and welfare. Although the energy required to sustain life comes from the sun, acute or chronic
overexposure to sunlight can lead to a variety of deleterious effects such as erythema (sunburn), photoaging,
premalignant lesions and melanoma skin cancer. Clothing has the ability to protect the skin to an extent; but in
many cases this protection may not be sufficient. The percentage of radiation transmitted by the fabric is a
crucial factor that determines the level of protection. Fabrics that are treated with UV absorbers which have
increased ability to attenuate light protect human skin from harms of solar radiation. UV absorbers can be
incorporated into synthetic fibers in fiber spinning baths. They can also be applied as finishing agents. In this
study, two types of 100% cotton fabrics have been used; twill 2/1 and rib 2/1. Following the application of
preliminary processes, these fabric specimens were dyed with 0.1%Procion Brilliant Red HE-GXL (Dye-Star).
UV absorbers were added before, during and after dyeing at the concentrations of 0 and 2 %. Transmittance
values at 290-400 nm were measured. These values for undyed and dyed fabrics were used in the calculation of
UPF and UV protection categories for each specimen were determined. Moreover, whiteness degrees of undyed
specimens treated with UV absorbers were examined. The light fastness of dyed fabrics was also examined.
Key words: Cotton fabrics, light fastness, UV absorbers
Introduction
Nowadays, the depletion of the ozone layer has
highlighted and ultraviolet radiation (UVR) reach the
earth surface [1]. The experts agree that human
exposure to UVR should be controlled by protecting
the skin or limiting its exposure to UVR [2].
Therefore clothing is recommended by scientiests as
one of the primary methods of protecting the skin
[3]. To protect from over-exposure to UVR, it is
recommended to avoid going out in the sun, to wear
a sunscreen, or to cover up with clothing. The
effectiveness of a sunscreen depends on the
concentration of UV-absorbing agent in the
sunscreen and the thickness of the film applied to the
skin; if the sunscreen is applied sparingly, a higher
concentration of UV absorbers is required to reduce
the amount of radiation striking the skin [4].
UV absorbers are substances capable of
selectively absorbing short wave solar radiation and
of restoring the absorbed energy intact to the
environment. They decrease the harmful effect of

UV rays on human skin, as well as the textile

material and dyes.
The need for and the effectiveness of protection
of fibers against UV radiation depend on the type of
fiber. Textile materials which have weak UV
absorbing ability such as cotton may give relatively
weak protection for human skin, although they are
less at risk themselves. On the other hand, fabrics
with strong UV absorption power containing
intensely absorbing polymers or fibers containing
delustrant pigments may have the risk of
degradation.
The various components of a dyeing contribute
in different ways to its absorption in the UV region.
Where the photosensitivity of dyeings is concerned a
distinction must be made between dye destruction
induced by fiber degradation or other dyeing
components, and the photosensitivity of the dye
itself. Dye destruction induced by the UV absorption
of other components can be largely influenced by
UV absorbers.
The degree of protection of the skin against the
action of solar radiation can be expressed as Sun

Corresponding Author
Nigar Merdan, Faculty of Engineering and Design, Istanbul Commerce University, Istanbul,
Turkey

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Protection Factor (SPF) and Ultraviolet Protection

Factor (UPF). Sun protection factor is the
quantitative measure of an in vivo determination, and
UPF is used to indicate the result obtained
instrumentally.
The UV region constitutes roughly 7% of total
solar emission reaching the earth. UVA rays (320400nm) have much less effect on human skin
compared to UVB rays (290-320 nm). UVC rays
have shorter wavelengths (< 290 nm) and are
absorbed by stratospheric ozone layer.
Measurement of UVR transmission and
calculation of protection factors for fabric vary
throughout the literature.
In Pailthorpe protection factors (SPF, UPF) were
calculated from UV transmission data, solar
irradiance data, and an erythenial-action spectrum.
Other authors have used the terms relative protection
factor (RPF), fabric protection factor (FPF), SPF and
ultraviolet protection factor (UPF). ln addition,
fabrics tested in previousstudies have not been
adequately described, making it difficult to
understand the influence of fabric parameters on
UVR transmission [5-11].
The term UV absorbers covers various organic
and inorganic compounds having the common
characteristic of marked absorption of UV radiation,
virtually no absorption in the visible region and high
light fastness. All organic compounds applied
industrially in wet processes to textile fibers to date
are derivatives of one of three different structures: ohydroxybenzophenone;
ohydroxyphenylbenzotriazole;
ohydroxyphenyltriazine [12-17]. There are many
reports about dyes, especially black and blue colors
of production against UV radiation [18,19] and the
effect of UV radiation production of the fabric
structure [20,21].
2. Experimental:

2.1 Materials and apparatus:

Materials used:
Pretreated 100% cotton fabrics free from fluorescent
brighteners were used.
Fabric construction:
Yarn counts: Warp: Ne 10/2 Weft: Ne 10/2
Fabric I: twill 2/1 weave;
Fabric II: rib 2/1 weave. Warp and weft density of all
fabrics was 11 picks/cm.
Fabric densities: 272g/m for fabric I and 269 g/m
for fabric II.
Auxiliary: Rayosan C-Clariant is a heterocyclic
compound which forms a covalent bond with the
cellulose macromolecule.
Apparatus:
UV visible spectrophotometer (Lambda 9 Perkin
Elmer) was used for transmission measurements.
Laboratory HT Dyeing Machine (Roaches BrandMB) was employed for the applications of the UV
absorbers and for the dyeing of the cotton fabric.
Color measurements were performed on reflectance
spectrophotometer (Datacolor International). Light
Fastness Tester (James H. Heal) was used.
2.2 Method of application:
Application of the UV absorber (Rayosan CClariant) on white fabric
Rayosan C was applied to 5 g white fabric by the
exhaustion process with the amount of 0% and 2%
on weight of the material. 70 g/L Sodium sulphate
and (2+ the amount of UV absorber) % Sodium
carbonate were used. Liquor ratio was 10:1.
Temperature-time diagram for the application of
Rayosan C was shown in Figure 1.

Fig. 1: Temperature-time diagram.

Dyeing process;
0.1% Procion Brillant Red HE-GXL (DyStar)
reactive dye was used in the dyeings. 5 g samples
were dyed by exhaustion and the liquor ratio was

10:1. At 60 C, the dyeing was carried out for 80

min. 180g/L NaCl and 20 g/L Na2CO3 were used in
the dyeings. After dyeing, washing/rinsing stages
were carried out shown in Table 1.

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Table 1: Washing process
Process number
1
2
3
4
5

Post Processes
Cold Washing
Neutralization with acetic acid
Hot Rinsing
Soaping at Boil
Cold Rinsing

UV absorbers were applied according to exhaust

method. Each trial has been repeated three times. UV
visible spectrophotometer was used for measuring
the transmittance values according to AS/NZS
4399:1996 standard. The UV transmittance of each
specimen has been measured at 5 nm intervals from
290nm to 400nm. UPF, UVA and UVB values have
been calculated according to the equation 1 and 2
given in the above mentioned test standard.

Conditions
3 l /5g material
pH =7
80 C 2 min, 500 mL / 5 g material
10min 400 ml/ 5g material
1000 mL / 5 g material

Table 2 shows the classification of sun

protection effects of fabrics according to AS/NZS
4399:1996 Standard.
3. Results:
The % transmission values of untreated,
bleached and UV absorbed fabrics are given Figure 2
and 3.

400

UPF=

E eff
E'

E x S x
290

400

[Equation 1]

E x S x T x
290

E = Relative erythemal spectral effect

S = Solar spectrum radiation (W.m -2. nm-1)
T = Spectral transmittance of the specimen
= Wavelength intervals (nm)
= Wavelength , nm
UVAAV =

T315 + T320 + T325 + .... + T395 + T400

18
[Equation 2]

UVBAV =

T290 + T295 + T300 + T305 + T310 + T315

6

Table 2: UPF classification [5].

UPF range
15-24
25-39
40-50 , 50+

UVR protection category

Good protection
Very good protection
Excellent protection

UVR transmittance (%)

6.7-7.2
4.1-2.6
2.5

UPF grading
15, 20
25, 30, 35
40, 45, 50, 50+

Fig. 2: The spectral transmittance curves of untreated, bleached and 2%UV absorber containing twill 2/1 weave
fabrics.

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Fig. 3: The spectral transmittance curves of untreated, bleached and 2%UV absorber containing rib 2/1 weave
fabrics.
Figure 2 and 3 showed that the % transmission
values of UV absorbed fabrics are increased. The
UPF values of untreated specimens are higher than
those of bleached samples. Impurities present in the
untreated samples must have provided some
screening effect (Table 3).

Bleached twill fabric has slightly higher UPF

compared to bleached rib weave sample. Moreover,
the increase in UPF of twill fabric treated with UV
absorber is much higher than that of rib weave
specimen. This increase might be due to the denser
structure of twill fabrics after wet treatments.

1: dyeing only, 2: UV abs. application before dyeing, 3: UV abs. application during dyeing, 4: UV abs.
application after dyeing
Fig. 4: Spectral transmittances of dyed twill 2/1 weave fabrics.
The % transmission values of dyed, UV
absorbed before dying, during dyeing and after
dyeing fabrics are given Figure 4 and 5,
respectively. Before the application of UV
absorbers, dyed specimens of twill fabrics have
higher UPF values than those of rib fabrics. When
both dye and the UV absorber are applied to fabric,
effects of their application sequence might worth
examining; When UV absorber was applied prior to
dyeing, UPF values of both twill and rib weave
specimens increased. This increase is higher in the
case of rib samples. UPF has increased from 22.01 to
30.03 for rib weave, whereas 31.88 to 34.12 in the
case of twill weave specimens.

The Ribs of fabric samples was treated with UV

absorbers and dyed simultaneously. This application
can also be considered as successful since the UPF
values were found more or less the same as in twill
fabrics.(Table 4) .In the case of dyeing before the
application of UV absorbers, results obtained were
completely different. UPF values were even lower
for twill weave specimens, and were only slightly
higher for rib samples.

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1: dyeing only, 2: UV abs. application before dyeing, 3: UV abs. application during dyeing, 4: UV abs.
application after dyeing
Fig. 5: Spectral transmittances of dyed rib 2/1 specimens.
The calculated UV protection values of all test specimens are shown in Table 3 and Table 4.
Table 3: The UPF, UVA, UVB values of untreated, bleached and UV absorber containing fabric specimens.
Specimen
Average
UPF ranking
UVAAV
UPF
(%)
Untreated twill weave fabric
Untreated rib weave fabric
Bleached twill weave fabric
Bleached rib weave fabric
Twill weave fabric with 2% UV absorber
Rib fabric with 2% UV absorber

20.80
12.65
10.70
9.60
25.16
15.81

20
10
10
5
25
15

Table 4: The UPF, UVA, UVB values of dyed specimens.

Specimen
Twill weave fabric
Rib weave fabric
Twill weave fabric
Rib weave fabric
Twill weave fabric
Rib weave fabric
Twill weave fabric
Rib weave fabric

Average
UPF ranking
UPF
Dyed and UV absorber-free
31.83
30
22.01
20
Appl.of 2% UV absorber prior to dyeing
34.12
30
30.03
30
Simultaneous appl. of dye and UV absorber
22.50
20
25.25
25
Dyeing followed by appl.of 2% UV absorber
6.70
5
8.71
5

Whiteness degrees of twill weave and rib weave

fabrics are shown at Figure 6. Figure 7 shows the
light fastness values of fabrics.
Presence of the UV absorber in white fabric
specimens has had no adverse effect on their
whiteness values; in fact, a slight increase in
whiteness degrees of bleached fabrics has been
detected.
Treatment with UV absorber generally improves
the light fastness of all fabrics (Figure 7). Different
weaving constructions did not affect the light
fastness properties of UV applied fabrics. But
application of UV absorber before dyeing process is
give better results on light fastness properties

6.15
8.78
13.24
13.92
12.24
14.30

UVBAV
(%)
4.25
7.53
7.26
8.48
1.72
3.45

UVAAV
(%)

UVBAV
(%)

6.39
7.27

2.14
3.73

5,82
6.65

2,08
2.05

8.03
7.83

3.27
2.36

56.24
32.60

4.08
4.85

The E* values of the samples represent the

color difference. If E* < 1, the difference between
the two color is little and if E* > 1, the difference is
substantial. Figure 8 shows the E values of treated
fabrics.
4. Conclusion:
In this study, indicates that clothing can provide
an effective barrier to UPF. The results of bleaching
and dyeing using the UV absorber has been more
better than other fabrics. Different weaving
construction evaluating each other, UV absorber is
penetrated more effective to the twill weaving
structure.

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T1: Twill Weave Untreated Sample , T2: Twill Weave Bleached Sample, T3:Twill Weave Bleached Following
by Application of UV Absorber in Separate Bath, R1: Rib Weave Untreated Sample , R2: Rib Weave Bleached
Sample, R3:Rib Weave Bleached Following by Application of UV Absorber in Separate Bath,
Fig. 6: Whiteness Degrees (Berger).

1: dyeing only, 2: UV abs. application before dyeing, 3: UV abs. application during dyeing , 4: UV abs.
application after dyeing
Fig. 7: Comparing Light Fastness Values of Fabrics (ISO 105-B02).

T1:Twill Weave, UV abs. application before dyeing , T2: Twill Weave, UV abs. application during dyeing , T3:
Twill Weave UV abs. application after dyeing, R1:Rib Weave, UV abs. application before dyeing , R2: Rib
Weave, UV abs. application during dyeing , R3: Rib Weave UV abs. application after dyeing, Standard: dyeing
only
Fig. 8: Color Difference Values of Fabrics, E* (D65/10).

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While, twill and rib weaving structure has been

not affected the light fastness properties, UV
absorber application before dyeing has been
increased the whiteness index of the fabrics. In
addition, application of the UV absorber in both the
fabric structure is not caused the differences in color.
In conclusion, it is evident from this study that
for increased protection from UPF, one should
choose twill and ribs weave fabrics made from
cotton.
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