Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

PRIZREN
2010 - 2011

Explore Prizren
Everything you need to know for
visiting Kosovo’s cultural capital

A church with 3 names

Prizren’s only UNESCO World
Heritage Site

Daytrips around town

Gjakova, Sharri National Park,
skiing in Brezovica and more

N°1 - €2
prizren.inyourpocket.com
 Contents 3

Balkans Others about In Your Pocket

“In Your Pocket: a cheeky and well-written series of
guidebooks” New York Times

In Your Pocket
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
“Pristina In Your Pocket (www.pristina.inyourp ”Pris-
tina In Your Pocket (www.pristina.inyourpocket.com)
is a downloadable guide; it’s also available at Libraria Contents
Dukagjini.”; “Tirana In Your Pocket lists what’s going
on and can be downloaded free or bought at bookshops, Arriving in Prizren 5
hotels and some of the larger kiosks for 400 lekë.”
Covering 40 cities in ten Balkan countries, In Your Pocket offers unparalleled access Lonely Planet Eastern Europe 2010
Basics 6
to travel information and foreign travellers. Whether you’re planning a business, trip, “For instant city guides, check out inyourpocket. Electricity, money, visas and more
leisure trip, or if you’re looking to advertise to reach travellers with money to spend, In com. Its 50 European city guides are regularly up-
dated and available, for free, on the web or as History 8
Your Pocket is the city guide series for you. PDF downloads.” Sunday Times Travel Magazine
From settlement to independence
www.inyourpocket.com “The biannual Tirana In Your Pocket is a good
source of information” Rough Guide Europe, 2010 Filigran 9
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Prizren’s delicate craft speciality
BLED “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.”
“Provides solid, reliable information on everything from
where to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend Culture & Events
The New York Times

10
72 hours in a city.” The Guardian
Summer - Autumn 2010

From tubing to the film festival

“These [In Your Pocket] guides are very well written and I
was quite impressed.” Simon Calder, The Independent Where to stay 12
senior travel editor All the lodging options
“inyourpocket.com (IYP) is one of the web’s best travel
Cream Cake!
The symbol of Bled, Kremna Rezina,
is one big tasty reason to visit

Bohinj
resources.” The Guardian Dining & Nightlife 13
N°3 - € 2.90
N°5 - 6Lt
Another pristine alpine lake, yet more
peaceful

Ljubljana Shopping
From Kosovar food and pizza, to cafés and bars
“The IYP crew have created the first English-language city
www.inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
Books, fashion and gifts in the nearby
Slovenian capital

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

guides in Kosovo, with lots of practical information that
until now has been very difficult to find anywhere. The
Sightseeing 16
SARAJEVO
maps and public transport information are particularly From fortress views to mosques and churches
Autumn 2009
welcome.” Balkanology.com
Daytrips 24
“We love the IYP series. The embassy included one in my Explore the beautiful surroundings
new employee welcome folder. I have found the guide to
be invaluable in navigating my way through the city. Look-
Olympic City
The host of the ‘84 Winter ing forward to the Prizen edition!” Jennie Kim, Public Gjakova 29
A charming market town
Games has reopened for

Diplomacy Section, US Embassy in Kosovo

business

MESS Festival
Sarajevo’s 49th International
Theatre Festival

“Pristina In Your Pocket is an important source of in- Brezovica 30

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times

formation and we wish you success!” Fatbardha Aliu,

Enjoy your
COMPLIMENTARY COPY
of Sarajevo In Your Pocket

N°1 Finland Embassy in Kosovo

The Balkans’ top ski resort
www.inyourpocket.com

“As the Turkish Embassy staff, we appreciate your efforts Getting around 32
and much enjoy reading Pristina In Your Pocket.” Mustafa When legs just aren’t enough
Somuncu, Turkish Embassy in Kosovo

“I just have to thank you for publishing Tirana IYP. I trav-

Mail & Phones 34
elled around Kosovo, Albania and Macedonia alone for Keeping in touch
two weeks. The map was fantastic and the information
on the sights and the restaurants were spot on.” Jen Shopping 35
Clarke, Australia From the basics to luxuries
“We visited Tirana as an independent group. In Your
Pocket has been an excellent help in providing us the Directory 36
information which we need. There are not any other Handy listings
companies that supply honest hotel, restaurant and
Albania Tirana, Shkodra, Korça Bosnia & Herzegovina Sarajevo, Banja Luka Croatia
nightlife info.” Greg Axon, United Kingdom Maps & Index
Region map 24
Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Karlovac, Opatija, Osijek, Rijeka, Split, Zadar Greece Athens, Thes- “Just got back from a weekend in Pristina with a group
of ten. The Pristina In Your Pocket guide was marvellous City map 38
saloniki Kosovo Pristina, Peja, Prizren Macedonia Skopje Montenegro Podgorica Roma- - we even used the pizza delivery service mentioned!” City centre & cultural heritage map 40
Edward Marshall, UK
nia Bucharest, Braşov Serbia Belgrade, Nis, Novi Sad Slovenia Ljubljana, Bovec, Brežice, Index & Street register 42
Bled, Celje, Koper, Kranj, Kranjska Gora, Piran, Planica, Postojna, Portorož, Maribor
prizren.inyourpocket.com 2010 - 2011
4 ForeWord arriVing in PriZren 5

Picture a charming Balkan city. A city draped along the Prizren is located in southern Kosovo, 75km southwest of
banks of a shallow river and backed by towering green About CHwB About this guide the capital Pristina, and 72km southeast of Peja.
mountains, a city linked to the coast and the interior
by ancient trade routes, a city dotted with elegant old The Cultural Heritage without Borders Kosovo Office works Prizren In Your
buildings constructed over many centuries, a city covered to preserve and promote endangered cultural monuments Pocket is the By plane
by snow in the cold winters and by dust in the hot summers, by using integrated conservation, restoration, capacity first English- Pristina International Airport (PRN, www.airportpristina.
a city that has seen many different people and rulers come building of heritage institutions and raising awareness about language com) is a modern, well-connected airport situated 15km
and go, a city that has seen destruction and restoration cultural heritage. Apart from collaborating on the production city guide to west of Pristina. Taking a taxi directly to Prizren will cost
of the guide, CHwB will distribute 5,000 copies of the print Kosovo’s cul- €45-60 if you call a taxi company in advance. Alternatively,
many times over, a city that has survived and overcome
guide in Prizren and Kosovo. tural capital, take a taxi (for around €15-25) to Pristina’s bus station,
adversity, a city that is now looking firmly to the future. and is part of an acclaimed Europe-wide series. The guide
Prizren is this city, and Prizren In Your Pocket is its first from where there are regular buses to Prizren. Pristina taxi
aims to help foreign visitors independently plan trips to the companies include London Taxi tel. +377 44 30 03 00,
English-language travel guide. city and the region by providing reliable information. This
As Kosovo’s ‘cultural capital’ with many summertime Europe In Your Pocket guide is available in print as well as online at www.prizren.
Victory tel. +386 49 11 12 22, and Roberti tel. +377 44
11 19 99. Macedonia’s Skopje airport is just 75km to the
festivals and the prettiest city centre of the country, Prizren inyourpocket.com or www.chwbkosovo.org, where all texts east of Prizren and offers more international connections.
has what it takes to make an interesting destination for In Your Pocket is can be browsed for free or downloaded as a free printable
once again set to Passengers landing there can take a taxi to Skopje’s bus
foreign leisure and business travellers. This old city with PDF guide. station for the two daily buses direct to Prizren.
its young population is a great place to visit, be it on a break new ground, Prizren In Your Pocket is produced by In Your Pocket in
quick stopover en route from Pristina or Skopje to the this time going Dutch partnership with the Swedish Foundation Cultural Heritage
Albanian coast, or on a longer trip taking in the beautiful with a move into the
Netherlands. The
without Borders (CHwB) - Kosovo Office, supported by the By bus
mountainous surroundings. Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands in Kosovo and Prizren is served by a plethora of local and international bus-
first issue of ’s-Her- other local partners in Prizren.
Finding reliable practical travel information has always togenbosch (Den es, making it a convenient stop on a trans-Balkan trip. The
been hard in the Balkans, but with the arrival of this guide, B o s c h) I n Yo u r opening of the new Albanian highway has seen travel time
there’s a multitude of tips and ideas available at your Lidhur me këtë udhërrëfyes from Tirana to Prizren slashed from 8 to just 3 hours. Prizren’s
Pocket is currently Prizren In Your Pocket është udhërrëfyesi i parë në gjuhën
fingertips - whether you’re flipping through the print edition in the latter stages small bus station is just west of the centre along Rruga De
angleze, dedikuar kryeqytetit kulturor të Kosovës, dhe i takon Rada. There’s not much in the way of facilities besides kiosks
or clicking away on the Prizren In Your Pocket website. of preparation, and serisë së udhërrëfyesve të vlerësuar në mbarë Evropën.
This guide was written with the reader in mind, and we’d be will appear in the and a bus information office. To get to town, a taxi will cost
Udhërrëfyesi synon që në mënyrë të pavarur t’i ndihmojë about €1, or hop on any bus heading east; the €0,30 tickets
delighted to hear from you about your experiences visiting first half of 2010. vizitorët e huaj në planifikimin e udhëtimit të tyre në qytet
Prizren; feel free to email us at prizren@inyourpocket.com. Out in summer can be bought on board. Else, it’s an easy 10-minute walk
dhe regjion, duke ofruar informata të besueshme. Ky udhër- down Rruga De Rada and left onto Rruga Remzi Ademi; the
Enjoy Kosovo, and enjoy Prizren. 2010 in Kosovo is rëfyes është në dispozicion në formë të shtypur dhe në formë
the brand new Priz- city centre and Shadërvan square are just across the river.
elektronike përmes web faqeve www.prizren.inyourpocket.
ren In Your Pocket, com ose www.chwbkosovo.org, ku të gjitha tekstet mund të
Cover story a splendid guide to the city and surrounding mountains shfletohen apo të shkarkohen falas në formatin PDF. By car
produced in collaboration with a local NGO. A Peja In Your Prizren In Your Pocket është hartuar nga In Your Pocket
Everyday life in Prizren: people stroll Pocket guide is to follow a few months later. Keep up with All roads lead to the city centre, and drivers approach-
në bashkëpunim me Fondacionin Suedez Trashëgimia ing Prizren from Pristina or Peja will easily find the city
past the shops and bars along the all In Your Pocket news and events and become a fan Kulturore pa Kufij (CHwB) – zyra në Kosovë, e mbështetur
Lumbardhi river, with the newly re- on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) and follow centre (qender) by following the signs. Guarded parking is
nga Ambasada e Mbretërisë Holandeze në Kosovë dhe available near the Alhambra restaurant and by the Oltas
stored Sinan Pasha Mosque, the city’s us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). We welcome partnerët tjerë lokal në Prizren.
main landmark, towering overhead enquiries from anyone who’d like to start up an In Your Pension.
and with the Catholic Church in the Pocket franchise. Send us an email requesting more O ovom vodiču
background. information to publisher@inyourpocket.com Prizren In Your Pocket je prvi vodič na engleskom jeziku
namenjen glavnom gradu kulture Kosova, i pripada seriji
cenjenih vodiča širom Evrope. Glavni cilj vodiča je da omogući
Editorial Copyright notice i pomogne stranim posetiocima da samostalno planiraju
Editorial management Rentapocket.com: Text and photos copyright In Your posetu grada i regiona, davajući im tačne informacije. Ovaj
Jeroen van Marle, Sco Pocket 2010. Maps copyright vodič se može naći u štampanom i elektronskom izdanju,
E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S Project coordinators Municipality of Prizren. All na web stranicama www.prizren.inyourpocket.com i www.
Nora Arapi and Enes Toska rights reserved. No part of this chwbkosovo.org, gde se tekstovi mogu prelistati ili bezplatno
Prizren In Your Pocket Research and fact-checking Nora Arapi publication may be reproduced in preuzeti u PDF formatu.
Prizren In Your Pocket Contributor Lawrence Marzouk any form, except brief extracts for Prizren In Your Pocket, sastavljen je i izdaje se od strane In
© Albania Experience Sh.P.K Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė the purpose of review, without Your Pocket u saradnji sa Švedskom Fondacijom Kulturno
Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, pall. 11/1, kati 6, Photos Rentapocket, CHwB, Shannon Rice written permission from the
Tirana, Albania Maps Prizren Municipality Nasleđe bez Granica (CHwB) – kancelarija na Kosovu, uz
publisher and copyright owner. The podršku Ambasade Kraljevine Holandije na Kosovu i drugih
Tel +355 4 225 17 84, Cover photo Sinan Pasha mosque, by Veton brand name In Your Pocket is used
Fax +355 4 227 19 60 Nurkollari lokalnih partnera u Prizrenu.
under license from UAB In Your
prizren@inyourpocket.com The Prizren IYP team would like to thank Sali Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
www.inyourpocket.com Rehber hakkında Kërëk Mosque, built by arriving Ottomans 1455
Shoshi (Head of Office, CHwB Kosovo Office) Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76). Prizren In Your Pocket, Kosova’nın kültür başkenti için yazılan
ISSN 2078-0826 and all others at Cultural Heritage without Editor’s note
Printing Evropa92, Kochani,
Macedonia
Borders for making this city guide possible.
The editorial content of In Your
ve Avrupa çapında serisinin önemli bir parçası olan ilk İngilizce
Prizren şehir rehberidir. Bu rehber, güvenilir bilgi sağlayarak Street smarts
We also extend thanks to the Municipality of
Published 10,000 copies annually Prizren, especially the Directorate of Tourism Pocket guides is independent yabancı ziyaretçilerin şehir ve bölge gezilerini bağımsız bir In Prizren, street signs are written in all three official
and Economic Development, the Institute for from paid-for advertising. We şekilde planlanmalarına yardımcı olmayı amaçlamaktadır. languages: Albanian, Serbian and Turkish. Many locals don’t
Sales & Circulation the Protection of Monuments in Prizren, the welcome all readers’ comments Rehbere, basılı olmasının yanısıra online olarakta www. use street names and use landmarks for orientation, simply
religious communities, local NGOs, the local and suggestions. We have made prizren.inyourpocket.com ve www.chwbkosovo.org web- asking for directions when they get lost - something readers
Manager Vullnet Malazogu every effort to ensure the accuracy sitelerinden PDF formatında ve ücretsiz ulaşılabilir.
(vullnet.malazogu@inyourpocket.com, community in Prizren and to the Embassy of this guide will probably need to do themselves too.
tel. +377 45 59 50 01) of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, who of the information at the time of Prizren In Your Pocket, In Your Pocket ve İsveç Vakfı Sınırsız
have all contributed in important ways to the going to press and assume no Kültürel Miras (CHwB) Kosova Ofisi ortaklığı tarafından, Rruga Street
Publishers Gazmend Haxhia, Sheshi Square
Jeroen van Marle, Sco realisation of Prizren In Your Pocket. We thank responsibility for changes and Hollanda Krallığı Kosova Büyükelçiliği ve Prizren’deki diğer
Mr. Sc. Afrim Topqideri for his contributions to errors. yerel ortakların destekleriyle yayınlanmaktadır. Autostrada Highway
the history section of the guide. Ura Bridge

Prizren In Your Pocket prizren.inyourpocket.com prizren.inyourpocket.com 2010 - 2011

6 BasiCs BasiCs 7

Alcohol Climate Purchasing power Religion

Alcohol in Kosovo is relatively cheap and drunk in moderation. Most Kosovar Albanians and some other communities are
Beer is widely available, the most well known local brand How far does your euro, pound or dollar go in Prizren? officially Sunni Muslims, with a small percentage adhering
being Peja, a light beer from the city of the same name in to the Sufi orders, and a good smattering of Catholics.
the western part of the country. Wine is gaining in popularity, Espresso €0.50 Relations between the faiths are very good. Kosovo’s Serbian
helped by the local clement weather which favours the Glass of local beer (0.5 litre) €1,50 population is predominantly Orthodox. Kosovo, like Albania,
growing of several types of grape. The Stone Castle vineyard Mineral water (1 litre) €1 is considerably more secular than Turkey or the Middle East;
just outside Rahovec, some 25km northwest of Prizren, Mars bar €0,40 drinking and smoking are not taboos for many, and women’s
produces a number of very drinkable wines, many of them Hamburger €1 headscarves are a rare sight, especially in urban areas.
sold in restaurants and bars around the country. The local Public transport ticket €0,30
firewater is raki, a distilled spirit made from grapes. Note 100km by bus/train €3
that many cafés, bars and restaurants do not serve alcohol Toilets
during Ramadan. Public toilets (€0,50) can be found under the bridge opposite
the Theranda hotel. Elsewhere, your best bet is to walk
Money & Costs into any hotel, café or restaurant and ask when nature
Crime & Safety Kosovo uses the euro (€). Euro banknotes come in calls. Carry an emergency supply of toilet paper to be on
The local population easily qualifies as one of the friendliest denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and the safe side.
in Europe if not the world. Smiles and nods are returned with €500. Coins, whose design depends on in which country
glee and the people are genuinely interested in who you they were minted, come in denominations of €0.01, €0.02,
are. The crime rate in Prizren is very low compared to other Government, EULEX & KFOR €0.05, €0.10, €0.20, €0.50, €1 and €2. Cash is still king in Visas & Entry formalities
European cities, though visitors should always keep an eye After the 1999 war, UN Security Council Resolution 1244 Kosovo, so make sure you have enough cash on you in and Citizens of the EU, the USA and Canada and can stay in
on valuables and never leave wallets, mobile phones and placed Kosovo under administration of the United Nations around Prizren as only a limited amount of places accept Kosovo for 90 days without further paperwork. In fact,
other articles unattended, and avoid walking in unlit streets Interim Administration Mission in Kosovo (UNMIK). Present- credit or debit cards, though this situation is changing fast. Kosovo has no special visa requirements at all for anybody.
at night. Gaping holes in pavements and roads are probably day Kosovo, after the declaration of independence, has As everywhere, be wary of card fraud. Don’t let your card As Serbia doesn’t acknowledge Kosovo’s independence,
the biggest cause for concern. The foreign embassies in established its own parliament, government and local stray out of sight when paying for something. ATMs are it considers it illegal for anyone to be there without a valid
Pristina should be your first port of call if you find yourself in institutions, cooperating closely with the EU, represented by abundant in urban areas and the best way of getting cash. Serbian entry stamp, although as long as you enter and
any serious difficulties. the European Union Rule of Law Mission in Kosovo (EULEX) Life for foreigners is cheap in Kosovo; see the purchasing leave from a third country there’s not much they can do
and which took over from UNMIK in 2010. The Kosovo Police power box. about it. When travelling from Kosovo to Serbia and on to
and Kosovo Security Forces work with NATO’s KFOR (Kosovo another country, some travellers have reported problems,
Disabled travellers Force) to establish and maintain security. The European though these seem to be on the decrease. It’s not a problem
With the exception of a few new hotels, restaurants and Union remains the largest donor providing assistance to to travel through Serbia to Kosovo and then leave through
government buildings, no facilities for the disabled exist Kosovo and South Eastern Europe as a whole, with Kosovo a third country.
in Kosovo. A local organisation called Handicap Kosova receiving more than €2 billion since 1999. These funds were
(Handikos) monitors the implementation of the national initially for emergency relief and reconstruction, though
action plan for the disabled. nowadays more is spent on the development of stable
institutions and economic development Historical reading
Electricity Publish ed just be fore
When it works, electrical current is 220v AC and is distributed Health the NATO bombs started
by Kosovo’s KEK electricity company via standard European Travelling with private health insurance is recommended, falling in 1999, ‘Kosovo:
round, two-pin sockets. Power cuts do happen, with back-up meaning if you do get ill you’re entitled to treatment at one A Short History’ is Noel
generators filling the void when the lights go out. Countless of the country’s private clinics. The water in Prizren, supplied Malcolm’s epic history
well-paid foreign experts have been working on the tricky by four natural springs and the local river, is safe to drink, o f Ko s ovo, ge n e ra l l y
power situation for the last decade. In short, bring a torch. although bottled water is widely available in shops. acknowledged to be the
most balanced critique
o f one o f th e worl d’s
Language most misun d erstood,
The two official state languages of Kosovo are Albanian historicall y eni gmatic
and Serbian, although the vast majority of the population an d poli ti call y sensi -
speaks Albanian. Prizren is unusual in that it actually has tive regions. An Oxford
three official languages, namely Albanian, Serbian and history graduate, Mal-
Turkish. Gorani, Romani and Bosnian are also spoken in colm’s colossal history
and around the city. Major road signs are marked in both Reconstructing the Sinan Pasha mosque porch attempts to understand
Albanian and Serbian. Signs inside Prizren’s city limits are the current situation in
in Albanian, Serbian and Turkish. To make things more Ko s ovo b y a n a l ys i n g
complicated, Albanian city names have two different endings Public holidays almost every manuscript relating to the demograph-
(Prizren/Prizreni, Prishtina/Prishtinë etc) and many places are ics of the region written over the last fifteen hundred
known by both their Albanian and Serbian names (Peja/Peć). 1-2 January New Year years. By looking at censuses, diaries, ancient
Most young urban people can be expected to speak some 7 January Orthodox Christmas travelogues and other documents the book discov-
English, otherwise you’ll need to get by with a little German, a 17 February Independence Day ers more booby traps than answers, introduces the
smattering of French and the inevitable sign language. 24 April 2011 Easter Sunday reader to the strange and complicated world of the
9 April Constitution Day crypto-Catholic and generally serves as an excellent
1 May Labour Day tool for unlocking the strange and beautiful culture of
Exchange rates 9 May
9 Sept 2010, 30 Aug 2011
Europe Day
Eid al-Fitr (Fitër Bajrami)
the southern Balkans. The author remains apolitical
enough to give the reader an entertaining as well as
16 Nov 2010, 6 Nov 2011 Eid al-Adha (Kurban a thought-provoking read.
€1 = £0,82 = US$1,28 Kosovo: A Short History by Noel Malcolm. Pan,
Bajrami)
(August 20, 2010) 25 December Catholic Christmas 1998, 492 pages, ISBN 0330412248.
The town hall wall thanks the Kosovo recognisees

Prizren In Your Pocket prizren.inyourpocket.com prizren.inyourpocket.com 2010 - 2011

8 History Filigrani 9

Situated below a strategic hill on the border of a fertile plain, the issue. The memorandum was ignored and the territories Filigrani is an ancient craft that uses fine, mostly silver and original building, producing some truly exquisite bespoke
Prizren was always at the crossroads of important trade routes were given to Serbia and Montenegro. gold thread to produce astonishingly intricate and beautiful, work using traditional methods for clients both at home and
from the Adriatic coast into the Balkans. lace-like works of art. abroad. Their small workshop can be visited by anyone with
20th Century to 1990 After the first Balkan War of 1912, a genuine artistic or commercial interest, and is well worth
Antiquity The Prizren valley area was settled by Illyrians, the the Conference of Ambassadors in London allowed the K n o w n t o t h e va s t the trip. The workshop also includes a shop where several
Dardani tribe. Prizren was first mentioned as the Roman town creation of the state of Albania and handed Kosovo to majorit y o f native examples of the work produced can be bought.
of Theranda in Ptolemy’s Geography in the 2nd century AD, Serbia, even though the population of Kosovo remained English speakers as
and later as Petrizen by Procopius of Caesarea in De aedificiis mostly Albanian. The peace treaties after the First World War Filigree, known as Filigrani Filigrani, I-4, Rr. Tirana 3, tel. +377 44 13
in the 5th century. established the ‘Kingdom of Slovenes, Croats and Serbs’, of filigrani in Kosovo, is 95 39, filigranpz@gmail.com. Q Open 08.00-15.00,
which Kosovo was a part. In 1946, the Yugoslav constitution an ancient craft that Sat, Sun closed.
11th Century Prizren was mentioned as the bishopric of Prisdriana failed to grant territorial autonomy to Kosovo or recognise uses fine, mostly silver
in the Charter of the Byzantine Emperor Basil II of 1018. Albanians as a distinct nation, but the new constitution of a n d go l d t h r e a d t o
1974 made Kosovo an autonomous province and it became produce astonishingly
12th Century The northern territories of present-day Albania one of eight federal units of the Yugoslavian Federation with intricate and beautiful,
and parts of Kosovo were in Slavic hands, and by 1190 veto right. But in 1989 the Serbian government proposed to lace-like works of
Kosovo became the administrative and cultural centre of take away Kosovo’s autonomy, with Milosevic giving his now ar t, painstakingly
the medieval Serbian state. famous speech at Fushë Kosovo (Kosovo Polje), promising Filigran ring assembled with
to return the two autonomous provinces of Vojvodina and thousands of tiny
13th Century Immediately after the Fourth Crusade of Kosovo to Serbian authority. In Prizren, vital elements of the soldered joints. Filigrani’s origins are believed to date back
1204, Prizren was ruled by the Bulgarians. In 1216, Prizren historic city centre such as old bazaars, religious buildings, to the ancient Egyptians, with the art being perfected later
was conquered by Stefan II Nemanjic, but the town was later public fountains, traditional houses and inns were lost during by the Etruscans and ancient Greeks. Historical records
gradually retaken by the Bulgarians. Besides trade, culture ‘modernisation’ campaigns in the socialist Yugoslav years. suggest that filigrani arrived in Kosovo at some time during
and arts flourish in this period, and the Arbër family of Balshaj the 15th century, and it’s been produced in the region
became prominent. 1990-1999 After Kosovo’s autonomy was unilaterally ever since. Today there are an estimated 200 small-scale
abolished in 1989, civil disturbances erupted throughout family businesses producing filigrani in and around Prizren,
14th Century As a free-trade town, Prizren reached the Kosovo. Political pluralism began creating conditions for the surviving almost entirely on local trade through sales in
culmination of its development, looking much like a medieval first political parties which sought for independence through specialist shops, and handing the expertise and traditions
town in Western Europe with sophisticated fortifications, a a non-violent solution. These efforts did not end the crisis and down from generation to generation. Among the largest and
civitas (administrative and economic centre) and a castrum or in 1997 the Kosovo Liberation Army (KLA) made its first public well known of these artisans is a group of 10 producers
castellum (castle town). During the first half of the 14th century, appearance. With fighting the KLA as a pretext, Serbia caused working together in a small workshop in the northwest part
Prizren was an important trading centre for merchants from the thousands of civilian casualties and a million refugees with of Prizren. Simply called Filigrani, the company was originally
city of Ragusa (modern-day Dubrovnik) and in order to protect fierce fighting during the 1998-1999 Kosovo War. Prizren’s founded in 1947 by the Yugoslav state together with local
their interests, Ragusans founded a consulate to represent them urban area did not sustain much damage, though Serbian craftsmen, and it survived many hardships before being
and established institutions such as a customs office, a mint, a forces destroyed the Albanian League of Prizren complex. forced to close after the privatisation process that came
church and a hospital. The town was residence for the Catholic, Surrounding villages suffered many civilian losses and material after the war in 1999. The group of ten now work out of the Artisans at work
Byzantine, Bulgarian and Serb bishops, and numerous important damage, and many residents fled across the border to Albania,
churches were constructed, reconstructed and converted. Macedonia and Turkey. NATO’s 73-day bombing campaign
Conflicts and political division dominated the second half of the against Serbia lead to a peace deal agreeing on the withdrawal
14th century. The Ottoman Empire made its first attempts to of all Serbian forces from Kosovo, the return of all refugees,
get a foothold on the Balkans, and clash with the Serbs and its and an international peacekeeping security presence of NATO
allies at the famous Battle of Kosovo in 1389. troops, with Kosovo under UN administration.

15th-18th Centuries Prizren was conquered by the Ottoman 2004 Unrest throughout Kosovo on 17-18 March caused
Empire in 1455. The city witnessed another boom period in damage to Orthodox monuments and Prizren’s Nënkalaja/
the 16th century when it became the cultural centre of Kosovo. Podkalaja neighbourhood. In 2005, the Reconstruction and
Marvellous Ottoman monuments such as the Mosque and the Implementation Commission (RIC) initiated and implemented
Hamam of Gazi Mehmet Pasha were built, as well as other damage assessment projects and reconstruction work for
public buildings such as madrasah schools and inns. Prizren these damaged monuments.
was briefly conquered by the Austrians and their allies in the
late 17th century, but the Ottomans quickly retook the town. 2008 On February 17 Kosovo’s parliament declared
Gradually many locals converted to Islam, and by 1857 over independence. In June, Kosovo’s new constitution entered into
70% of Prizren’s population was Muslim. Under Ottoman rule, force, granting specific rights to Kosovo’s minority groups.
a large number of merchants set up shops and bazaars in
Prizren, capitalising on the strong economical relations across 2009 The Municipality of Prizren adopted the landmark
the empire. Consulates of Austro-Hungary, England, France Conservation and Development Plan for the Historic Zone
and Russia were opened in Prizren during this period. Since of Prizren, the first concrete step towards the planning and
Prizren was one of the administrative centres of Kosovo vilayet protection of the Prizren’s historical centre, and the very first
(province), Turkish, besides other languages, remains widely of its kind in Kosovo.
spoken and understood.
2010 In June, Kosovo’s first Balkan presidential summit
19th Century Prizren took centre stage in the Albanian took place near Prizren in Prevalla, as the leaders of Kosovo,
national revival when the League of Prizren was created on Albania, Montenegro and Macedonia discussed closer
June 10, 1878, attended by some 300 delegates from what cooperation. In July the International Court of Justice,
is now Kosovo, Albania and Macedonia, joined by Muslim responding to Serbia’s request, gave its advisory opinion
leaders from Bosnia-Herzegovina and the Sandzak. The that Kosovo’s independence did not violate international law.
aim of the League was to achieve autonomy for the vilayets Looking forward, Prizren is to open Kosovo’s second public
(provinces) of Shkodra, Janina, Manastir and Kosovo within university in October. 2010 has been declared the Year of
the framework of the Ottoman Empire. On June 13, 1878, Mother Teresa and is marked with many activities in Kosovo;
the 60-member League led by Ymer Prizreni sent a letter to the year will be closed with the inauguration of the new Mother
the Great Powers at the Congress of Berlin, asking to settle Teresa Museum House in Prizren.

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10 CUltUre & eVents CUltUre & eVents 11

Prizren, as Kosovo’s proud cultural capital, is brimming Tour de Culture www.unhabitat-kosovo.org, www.
with activities in summer. If you’re up for a party, the best Festivals & Events chwbkosovo.org. The European Heritage Days, an inter-
time to visit is during the Dokufest film festival, when the Prizren and surrounding communities liven up in summer national event held every September to give access to and
city centre is filled with crowds enjoying the film screenings when a wide variety of festivals and other events take promote Europe’s architectural and environmental heritage.
and outdoor performances. place - the Dokufest short film festival and the Hasi Jehon In 2010, Kosovo’s annual Tour de Culture recreational cycling
folklore festival being the best-visited. When in town, look tour linked to this event and the European Mobility Week will
out for performances by the Agimi Ensemble (tel. +381 start in Prizren. In a relaxed pace, participants cycle past
Cinema 29 23 36 76), who perform traditional Prizren folk-dancing various places and cultural heritage sites in Kosovo, aiming
Kino Lumbardhi D-3, Rr. Remzi Ademi. The Lumbardhi and chorus concerts of urban citizen and folkloric songs, to promote the country’s common cultural heritage as an as-
is Prizren’s only permanent cinema and can be found by the and the Dogru Yol Ensemble who play Turkish music (tel. set for cultural tourism and reconciliation, while at the same
stone bridge. Once the first outdoor cinema in the Balkans, +381 29 22 33 37). time showing that cycling is a healthy way to get around.
it is now only used for the Dokufest film festival, with the Prizren’s religious feasts, notably the Bajram festival (at Q Participation free.
amphitheatre also hosting concerts during the Zambaku i the end of Ramadan) and Christmas, are mainly private
Prizrenit citizen song festival. affairs, though the Sufi orders have weekly and annual Ura e Artit International Art Festival bari@atta-ks.
services that visitors can attend (see Sights). org. Celebrating cultural diversity in Kosovo, the week-long
‘Bridge of the Arts’ arts festival is held annually in September
Venues Cultural Fair D-3, Rr. Adem Jashari (Gazi Mehmet Pasha on the banks of the Lumbardhi. Artists set up their easels
Cultural Centre (Shtëpia e Kulturës) D-3, Rr. Hamam), akea_pz@yahoo.com. In the month of Ramadan, beside the river and draw and paint scenes from Prizren with
Saraçëve, tel. +381 29 22 30 33. The Professional Theater the Cultural Fair is held daily after iftar (the evening meal) from curious locals looking on. Q Admission free.
of Prizren (Teatri Profesionist i Prizrenit) is used for a variety about 20:15 to 24:00 in the courtyard of the Gazi Mehmet
of events, ranging from Albanian/Turkish/Bosnian/Roma- Pasha Hamam. Waiters in traditional garb bring cakes, sweets, Zambaku i Prizrenit Several old cities in the Balkans have
language plays, cultural manifestations, music concerts, Turkish coffee and local drinks like boza, stands sell traditional a proud tradition of old ‘citizen songs’, traditional music that
Dokufest film screenings and other festivals. The building also clothing, books and souvenirs, and oriental music is played. is distinct from ‘rural’ music in its more intricate composition,
houses the Regional Public Library (Biblioteka Regjionale e The special atmosphere of the fair in this ancient building rhythms and different topics. Prizren celebrates its great
Prizrenit), with books in several languages and an American makes it highly recommended. Q Admission free. musical legacy every June/July with the unique Zambaku i
Corner; access and lending is for members only. Prizrenit (Lily of Prizren) festival, held at the open air Lum-
Gazi Mehmet Pasha Hamam D-3, Rr. Adem Jashari, bardhi cinema. Although the festival focuses on Albanian-
tel. +377 44 62 45 58. The glorious tumbledown interior of
Prizren’s 16th-century Turkish bathhouse plays host to the oc-
Dokufest language songs, some editions also have performances by
other ethnic groups from Kosovo. At the festival it’s not just
casional exhibition and concert. To enquire about guided tours, old material that is performed - each year new artists add
ask an Albanian-speaker to call the listed phone number. Gazi Mehmet Pasha’s Mosque towers over the League songs to Prizren’s repertoire. Q Admission €3-5.
Music High School (Shkolla e Mesme e Muzikës museum
Lorenc Antoni) D-4, Rr. Marin Barleti, tel. +381 29 22
24 42. One of Kosovo’s oldest music schools (also a high
school and offering ballet classes) organises various concerts
Ekspo-Arti ganisunduri@hotmail.com, www.xhennet-
comics.blogspot.com. The international caricature festival
40 Bunar river tubing
and ballet performances throughout the year. takes place for ten days each autumn (in 2010 from 1-10 40 Bunar Fest www.40bunarfest.com. Kosovo’s
October) inside the beautiful Gazi Mehmet Hamam. Cartoon craziest race is Prizren’s 40 Bunar river tubing festival,
artists from across the world are invited to come and sketch held in the last weekend of May or the first of June.
about topical issues like corruption, global warming and Named after the ‘40 springs’ area further up the valley,
poverty. For more details, contact Kosovo’s association of competitors must get down the Lumbardhi river from
comic artists, Xhennet Comics. Q Admission free. near the Electrical Industry Museum to the Stone Bridge
in the city centre as fast as possible, on an inflated trac-
Flutrat On 1 June, international children’s day, Prizren Municipal- tor inner tyre. The low water levels, protruding rocks and
ity’s ‘butterflies’ festival aims to entertain the youngest Kosovars freezing water make the race challenging. The festival
with music and song along the riverside. Q Admission free. aims to raise awareness of the importance of clean river
water and environmental protection. The fun starts at
Hasi Jehon www.hasinet.piczo.com. Held annually since noon on Saturday, when everyone joins in to help clean
1976, the Hasi Jehon (‘echo of hasi’) folklore festival is held an- the river, after which there’s a large party in the evening.
nually over three evenings in early May in the village of Gjonaj, Participants gather at the cafés by the river at 11:00 on
15km north-west of Prizren. Some 20 cultural ensembles from Sunday and walk up to the starting point before racing
Photo by Tobias Strahl across the country gather here in the Hasi region to perform back to town. The event is concluded with partying all
Dokufest (International Documentary and music and dance; there are also exhibitions of traditional Sunday long. Participants pay a €5 fee and get a helmet
Short Film Festival) www.dokufest.com. The Hasi clothes and crafts, and naturally plenty of local food and and tube on loan.
Dokufest International Documentary and Short Film drink. The open-air event is held on the “Hill of Reconciliation”
Festival takes place annually in the second week of (Kodra e Pajtimit) and attracts up to ten thousand visitors
August. With 6,000 local and international visitors it is from Kosovo and abroad. Gjonaj is best reached by car or
the largest event of its kind in the region, and is ranked taxi. For photos of the festival see the Malësori association
among the most attractive documentary festivals in the website. Q Admission free.
world. Films are screened in several sessions between
12:00 and 24:00, each with multiple films, in three open Old Timers Fest (Vintage Car Show) www.old-
air cinemas as well as in three indoor halls. Besides the timerclubprizren.com. Lovers of vintage cars (known as
films, there are exhibitions and other film-related events ‘old timers’ here) from Kosovo and across the region gather
though the absolute highlight of the festival is the party annually for one weekend in late May on invitation of the Old
atmosphere that surrounds it. With crowds of young Timer Club Prizren. With 25 members owning 32 cars, most
people attending, the city centre turns into a party mile, of them ‘recent classics’ from the 1950s-1980s rather than
with concerts and streets full of happy people. Accom- classic old cars, this association aims to collect, preserve
modation is available at the special DokuCamp camping and raise awareness for classic vehicles. The annual show
for €1 per person per night; toilets and showers available. is held in the city centre, and you can expect to see all kinds
Q Admission €2 per session. of vehicles, from sleek Mercedes models to VW Beetles and Photo by Tarik Han
A fortress cannon overlooks Prizren Citroen 2CVs. Q Admission free.

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12 WHere to stay restaUrants 13

City-centre lodging options in Prizren are very limited for a city While Pristina may offer much more culinary variety, Holiday D-3, Sheshi Shadërvan, tel. +377 44 80 77 77.
with the status of ‘Kosovo’s cultural capital’ – so much so Symbol key Prizren has the looks, and many restaurants offer great It’s always holiday at this slightly more upmarket local restau-
that most visitors to the annual Dokufest film festival need views of medieval buildings and bustling car-free streets. rant. There’s a range of traditional and international dishes
to camp or commute from Pristina. The opening of a new P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted The local restaurant scene is still rather modest, and that won’t disappoint. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. AB
quality hotel in the centre brings the number of options to five. H Conference facilities L Guarded parking though it’s easy to find a good meal, the choice is basically
More luxurious hotels, often in natural beauty spots, can be local food or pizza. But who needs sushi or burritos when
found outside town. Room prices listed here include VAT and G Non-smoking rooms K Restaurant you have excellent Balkan dishes readily available? It’s Kosovar
breakfast and were correct in August 2010. C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi possible to have three Balkan meals in one day that are Alhambra C-3, Rr. Shuaip Spahiu, tel. +377 44 14 76
all completely different, and delicious. What’s more, prices 04. A firm favourite of families and older Prizrenites, who
are modest with main courses priced between €2-5, going know it as Te Syla, this classic Balkan riverside restaurant/
City centre Residence A/B-3, Rr. Remzi Ademi 117, tel. +377 44 up to €8 at the posher places. More upmarket dining snackar serves up cheap and excellent local food. Order qyfte
Alvida A-3, Rr. Ibrahim Lutfiu 48, tel. +377 44 21 71 25 57 74, residence_pz@hotmail.com. The best hotel in is found easily reached outside of Prizren, along Lake (meatballs, the famed house speciality), kebab, pleskavice:
67/+377 44 30 09 44. If the Residence and Oltas Pension town is in a modern three-storey house along the road from Vërmica and in the Sharr Mountains - see the What to or steak, or go for coffee with a sweet slice of cake. QOpen
are full, your best bet is this simple hotel west of the centre. the bus station into town. The perfectly decent rooms are see chapter for reviews. Note that table reservations are 08:00 - 23:00.
The rooms are acceptable but have dodgy bathrooms, and equipped with minibars, cable TV, wifi and spotless en suite normally not necessary.
are situated above a dining hall that occasionally hosts bathrooms. Note that the hotel lacks an elevator. As it’s the
wedding parties at weekends. Find Alvida just down the road only classy place in town, be sure to book in advance. Q7
from the Residence hotel - walk past the city prison and turn rooms (3 singles €25, 4 doubles €35). PAKW
Symbol key Prizren specialities
right at the modern complex of high-rise buildings. Q31
rooms (singles €15, doubles €30, triples €45, quads €60, Tirana D-3, Rr. Adam Jashari 14, tel. +381 29 23 08 P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
Five-bedded room €75). LW 18/+377 44 21 61 55, tirana_hotelpz@yahoo.com. Part
of a misguided 1960s city improvement effort, this nonde- E Live music S Take away
Centrum C-4, Rr. Bujtinat, tel. +377 44 15 33 45, gjona- script concrete blob represents the very worst of Yugo-era
L Guarded parking W Wi-Fi
jalbert@hotmail.com, www.centrumprizren.com. Prizren’s concrete architecture. Converted from an office building just
best hotel was opened just in time for the 2010 Dokufest 10 years ago, the hotel has crummy, stale rooms and old B Outside seating I Fireplace
crowds. Designed in traditional style, it has modern rooms creaky beds. No breakfast either, comrades. For the desper-
with balconies and en suite bathrooms, and lovely apartments ate. Q13 rooms (5 singles €30, 5 doubles €30, 2 triples €45,
equipped with kitchens and living rooms. Right in the city centre 1 apartments €75). PK
and excellent value for money. Q 20 rooms (singles €35, 17 Fast food
doubles €50, 3 apartments €65). PLKW Bea’s D-3, Sheshi Shadërvan. Kosovar fast food: Prizren-style
Around town hamburgers and pizza slices. Hungry? Try the platter for one.
Oltas Pension C-4, Rr. Bujtinat 14, tel. +377 44 11 Estrada Prizren-Pristina road, km7, tel. +377 44 20 88 Also on Rruga Vatrat Shqiptare. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. B
32 52/+377 44 48 37 02, oltas_pension@hotmail.com. 48/+386 49 50 15 00, info@hotelestrada.net, www.hotel-
Smack bang in the middle of the city on a quiet residential estrada.net. At the foot of Podgur Mountain, the bling Estrada M-Burger D-3, Rr. Vatrat Shqiptare, tel. +371 44 36 29
street, Oltas is all creaking floorboards, mismatched furniture hotel is Kosovo-style luxury, with gleaming marble floors, a wood- 95. Prizren’s classiest fast-food joint has upmarket decora-
and identikit breakfasts. The friendly staff speaks not one paneled dining room, and some daring colour combinations in the tion and cheap, good burgers, even with a choice of white
word of English (which won’t be a problem if you speak Ger- rooms. The rooms, all different and with a private balcony, are or brown bread. Try the Banjalucki, a burger with special Pitajka me vo
man) and find it amusing to fix the shower hook to the wall spacious and quite sparsely furnished, but feature Jacuzzis with Bosnian bread and meat, or the Taraker, made with minced
slightly further away than the shower hose can reach. For the (a first for In Your Pocket city guides) screens attached to them veal and salad. Delivery to your hotel, office or the cafe you Prizren’s traditional food is characterised by its great
money it would however be unfair to complain, especially as for sud-soaked TV viewing. Q 14 rooms (12 doubles €22,50, 2 may be sitting is all possible. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. B taste and rich use of spices and oil. The famous sweets
they throw free wireless internet into the bargain. The break- apartments €50).PHALKW sold at the ëmbëltoret (confectioneries) are often made
fast is like a scene from Groundhog Day. Good news if you like using age-old family recipes. Here’s a short list of local
bread, cheese triangles, boiled eggs and bananas. Marvel- Mena Rr. e Nashecit, tel. +377 44 39 21 21. Located International delicacies; entries marked with a star are especially
lous. Q7 rooms (3 singles €25, 4 doubles €35). PW in a somewhat greyish factory district in the northwest of Ambient E-3, Rr. Vatrat Shqiptare, tel. +381 29 22 worth trying when you’re in town as they are local speci-
the city, the slightly kitsch Mena comes complete with a 22 55/+377 44 85 98 87/+386 49 42 00 49 . On the alities, or are Kosovar/Balkan specialities with specific
gurgling fountain and large television in reception, clean en hillside between the fortress hill and the river, Ambient may be ingredients or taste in Prizren.
suite rooms with air conditioning, cable television and wire- Prizren’s most upmarket venue, it’s still eminently affordable for Boza a sweet-sour traditional drink made from corn flour
less internet and a restaurant open for breakfast only. There foreigners. Reached by a steep bit of road lined by tables for Fli a multi-layered savoury pie
are however a few restaurants in the immediate are, and a two, enter via the ground-floor café and climb up the stairs to Gjize me speca a starter of creamy cheese baked with
taxi into the centre only costs €1.50. Q11 rooms (1 singles the large main dining room. Pizza, pasta, meat and fish dishes peppers in a pot (served at Arasta and Villa Park)
€40, 10 doubles €40). are served together with good local wines in a rather refined Kifle bread with eggs and cheese, marmalade or choc
atmosphere. Book ahead if you’re set on eating here - a group spread
Residence Vërmica Vlashnje, tel. +377 44 67 06 94, may otherwise beat you to it. English and German are spoken. Lokum doughnuts
residence_pz@hotmail.com. The new sister hotel of the QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. AIB Pogaqa corn flour rolls
city-centre Residence hotel is an imposing modernist pile. At Pitajka me vo* bread with creamy xhiza cheese and
the time of visiting, it was still under construction, but its rooms Arasta D-3, Sheshi Shadërvan, tel. +381 29 22 22 55. eggs in the middle, baked in a wood oven, a Ramadan
are expected to open from December 2010. The in-house res- An modest building with an unassuming exterior hides a most specialty
taurant is however already open for business. Five kilometres wonderful place. Named after the old district around the Pleskavice or pljeskavica a large hamburger
along the main Prizren-Kukës road, near Lake Vërmica. bridge, it overlooks the river, and the corner-shaped room is Qebap* kebab
decked out with wooden beams, copper lamps and paintings Qyfte or kofte* grilled, spiced mince sausages, also
OK Prizren-Pristina road, km3, tel. +381 29 24 02 of old Prizren. In winter, traditional tangars (large copper dishes something of a Prizren specialty
60/+386 49 22 34 00, info@hotelok-ks.net, www. filled with coal), are used to keep the clientele cosy. But the Sharr goats cheese* Made from goats milk originating
hotelok-ks.net. Fronted by a pond with fountain, the light food is the best thing about Arasta. Good salads and pizza, from the Sharri Mountains, and flavoured with herbs
and modern ‘superluksoze’ OK hotel is the plushest place to and ten varieties of steak. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. IB Tava a stew of meat and cheese in a ceramic pot (served
stay near town, and the only place for miles with an indoor at Villa Park if ordered in advance)
swimming pool, and a ping-pong table too. Rooms come Ego D-3, Sheshi Shadërvan, tel. +377 44 14 03 09. A Topli a kind of bread prepared with creamy xhiza
with bright yellow, purple and blue walls, balconies and DVD new, modern multi-storey venue with a café on the ground cheese
players, and some have great views of the Sharri mountains. floor, a restaurant serving good pizza, steak and pasta on Turshi a winter salad composed of vegetables in salty
Q 24 rooms (4 singles €35, 16 doubles €40, 4 apartments the first floor, and on the top floor a place for smoking hookah water
Gazi Mehmet Pasha’s Hamam €60-80). PHALKC pipes. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.

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14 restaUrants CaFÉs & nigHtliFe 15

Prizren has a lovely set of cafés on the northern river bank

Sweets & Bakeries that are open from morning until midnight that function as
the foremost meeting place for young locals. These cafés
Prizren and the surrounding region are famous for are pleasant for coffee with views of the river by day, and
the extraordinary range of different breads pro- transform into bars after dark and stay lively until closing
duced, most of them coming from small companies time around or just after midnight. When the chairs run
and baked in traditional manner. All bread is made out, people just stand blocking the street so you’ll always
from white flour and is usually leaven. literally bump into acquaintances after a few days in town.
Prizrenites are real sweet lovers, and are rightly The nightlife scene can mainly be found in a warren
proud of the excellent confectionery made locally. of small streets and courtyards just west of Sheshi
If you’re peckish between meals, there’s a number Shadërvan square. Curiously, the crowd is known to move
of sweet local delicacies you can try. Baklava is the en masse when there’s a concert in the bar area, all
famous pan-Balkan dense filo pastry with nuts and swarming back to pole position when it ends.
sugar water; tullumba is a dense filo pastry with Nightlife generally starts early and generally ends early
sugar water; an ekler is a cake filled with vanilla too, so make the most of it. Note however that getting
cream, and revani is a traditional type of ‘wet’ cake sloshed is not a way to impress the locals, who usually
with sugar water. drink with moderation.

Ëmbëltorja e qy tetit E-3, Sheshi i Lidhjes

Shqiptare të Prizrenit. Besides excellent stick y Cafés
pastries and coffee, the ‘city confectionery’ by the Barcode E-3, Rr. Vatrat Shqiptare. The first in a row of
Albanian League complex has great views of the riverside café-bars popular throughout the year but especially
fortress, Nënkalaja district and the old town. Q Open so during the warmer part of the year when the outdoor ter-
08:00 - 24:00. race opens and many of the city’s young population gather The riverside cafés in autumn
here. The music inside is upbeat and the choice of alcoholic
Aurora D-3, Rr. Remzi Ademi. A buzzing bakery and non-alcoholic drinks is admirable. Q Open 09:00 - 01:00 Shadow E-3, Rr. Vatrat Shqiptare. Some shadow is
and café right opposite the Theranda hotel, serving (winter 09:00 - 24:00). BW exactly what’s needed after a few hours exploring Prizren
wonderful cakes, bread and snacks like byrek, doner in the summer heat, and this small café-bar provides plenty
kebab and pizza till late, late at night. Q Open 06:00 Café Haus D-3, Sheshi Shadërvan. With small tables inside. There’s also a small terrace outside next to the river
- 03:00. B spread over two floors, this large, buzzing café is a popular for seating during the spring and summer. Q Open 09:00 -
Inside the Saraçhane Tekke courtyard meeting place for locals, especially in the morning and 01:00 (winter 09:00 - 24:00). BW
Bananasplit Plus D-3, Sheshi Shadërvan. Snack afternoon. The café serves cakes and a few special snacks
your heart out on great ice cream or filling, gooey Beska D-3, Sheshi Shadërvan. Grilled meat, meatballs, fli worth trying, namely kifle (bread with eggs and cheese, X-Haus E-3, Rr. Vatrat Shqiptare. A good range of drinks
baklava at this central café. Fresh kifle are served for and other local dishes served in a traditional restaurant with marmalade or choc spread), pogaqa (corn flour rolls) and plus snacks and sandwiches in a compact café close to the
breakfast, until 11:00. Watch the street action from a large terrace overlooking the square, and a smaller one in lokum (doughnuts). Get them in the morning while they’re water’s edge. The aforementioned sandwiches come highly
ground level, or join the young couples by retreating the garden at the back. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. B fresh. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. BW recommended. Decked out like a large living room, it has
upstairs. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. B young people jostling for coffee in the afternoon. Q Open
Mullini i Pintollit E-2, Sheshi i Lidhjes Shqiptare të Change D/E-3, Sheshi Dëshmorët. Overlooking a square 09:00 - 01:00 (winter 09:00 - 24:00). B
Evropa D-3, Sheshi Shadër van. Opposi te th e Prizrenit, tel. +377 44 12 71 97. A charmingly recon- that was recently a car park, this new bar serves drinks includ-
Sinan Pasha Mosque at the hub of the city, Evropa is structed watermill in the Marash district is now a relaxed café ing fruity cocktails. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. EB
a classic family-run European café with fresh coffee, and part-time restaurant. Drinks are available year-round, but Bars
tasty cakes and home made sweets. Q Open 08:00 - food including grilled meat dishes, pizza and local speciality fli Kafiç D/E-3, Sheshi Dëshmorët. On the newly renovated Bar 2000 C/D-3, Rr. Pushkataret (courtyard), tel. +386
24:00. is served from May to September only. No alcohol is served. square behind the Aurora bakery, Kafiç is a modern café 49 30 00 36. It may be a little passé to have anything still
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. IB that’s good for quiet daytime drinks. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. named after the new millennium, but nobody at this large bar
Extra D-3, Rr. Adem Jashari 18. The small confec- B seems to mind, focused as they are on the music, the drinks
tionery opposite the Gazi Mehmet Pasha Hamam is Sarajeva Rr. Remzi Ademi, tel. +377 45 65 71 71. One and each other. Crammed on summer and weekend nights,
the place to drop by for traditional sweets and boza, of Prizren’s oldest and most popular qebaptore has a range Lucky Cup E-3, Rr. Vatrat Shqiptare. Another addition to it can be deserted other days. Q B
a delicious sweet-sour local drink made of corn flour. of tasty meat dishes: kebab, qofte, pleskavica, accompanied the little collection of simple but enjoyable city-centre bars
In the best of Prizren traditions, the shop and the with fresh salads and non-alcoholic drinks. QOpen 08.00 - and cafés vying for attention by the riverside. An excellent M-Pub C/D-3, Rr. Pushkataret (courtyard). Drink your
secret boza recipe have been handed down from 21.00. Closed Sun. outdoor choice if you can find a table among the summer way across the Balkans without setting foot outside the
father to son for generations. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00. throngs. Q Open 09:00 - 01:00 (winter 09:00 - 24:00). B door of this charming beer-lovers pub. It stocks over 40 types
Closed Sun. of beer, including many regional brands from countries like
Mullini Café E/F-2, Sheshi i Lidhjes Shqiptare të Prizrenit, Albania, Slovenia, Croatia and Montenegro. For those who like
Furra Lumbardhi C-3, Rr. Faik Emrush. The highly tel. +377 44 69 16 27. A summertime café, usually open during something stronger there’s Guinness, and a decent selection
recommended Furra Lumbardhi bakes its delicious Dokufest for special parties, with a large terrace set beside the of cocktails. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. B
bread in a wood-fired oven. A local bread called topli old millstream, and a simple interior with some antiques scattered
is widely available around the city and highly recom- about. Food, served between May and late August, includes steak Scobar C/D-3, Rr. Pushkataret (courtyard), tel. +386
mended. The sublime pitajka me vo, a veritable meal and local trout. QOpen 09.00 - 24.00. B 49 30 00 36. Prizren’s oddest bar is what you get when you
of a bread made with a mixture of egg and cheese in tell an Irish pub to go West. A big teepee-shaped affair with
the middle, is specially prepared around town during Picaso C-3, Rr. Sahat Kulla, tel. +377 44 56 81 11. A photos of cowboys and American Indians on the walls, it’s
Ramadan. rather nondescript café in a quiet back street selling a limited apparently named after the much-admired Columbian drug
range of herb teas, coffee and soft drinks, this place stands baron Escobar. There’s a raised section with tables, and a
Shëndeti D-4, Sheshi Shadërvan. Run by a Bos- out as possessing a quality table tennis table which can be stage for the regular concerts held here. QOpen 18:00 -
nian family, the small Shëndeti confectionery serves rented for buttons. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. 03:00. Closed Tue, Thu. EB
home-made traditional drinks like boza as well as
baklava and ekler sweets. In summer, munch on your Quattro E-3, Rr. Vatrat Shqiptare. As well as functioning as a de- Tabu Jazz D-3, Rr. Nuri Sherifi. Prizren’s newest bar shows
snack in the small courtyard with nice views of the cent café-bar with good summer outdoor waterside seating, Quat- that the city is diversifying fast - Tabu aims at the jazz-loving
Orthodox Church of Saint George. Q Open 08:00 - tro’s propensity to keep its doors open long into the night makes crowd, and though there’s no live music, the owners’ impres-
24:00. B it a popular choice among hungry visitors who gather to gorge on sive music collection will satisfy any jazz craving. QOpen
Cobblestones and cafés their fine choice of hot pizza. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. B 09:00 - 01:00. B

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16 WHat to see WHat
WHatto
tosee
see 17

Prizren’s delightful city centre is the best-preserved and Emin Pasha’s Mosque (Xhamia e Emin Pashës) Ottoman-slayer, János Hunyadi or Iancu de Hunedoara,
most picturesque in Kosovo, with a good collection of reli- D-3, Rr. Rifat Krasniqi. A remarkable late-O ttoman who did Christianity a great favour by defeating Mehmed
gious and profane buildings and quaint residential quarters, mosque, located opposi te th e hamam, buil t by th e II’s army at Belgrade in 1456. Mass, in Albanian, is held
all within close range of each other. A brisk walk uphill will famous Rrotulli brothers in 1831. Architecturally valu- at 18:00 on weekdays and until noon on Sundays, with
take you to the fortress overlooking town. The city’s long able and decorated with arabesques, it’s in dire need some singing in Italian and Latin. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00,
tradition of religious and ethnic tolerance is apparent in of restoration. Sun 12:00 - 16:00.
the close proximity of Catholic and Orthodox churches,
mosques and tekkes, many of them hundreds of years old. Gazi Mehmet Pasha’s Mosque (Bajrakli Xhamia) Cathedral Church of Christ the Saviour (Kisha e
It’s still difficult to visit the Orthodox churches and monas- E-2/3, Rr. Mehmet Pasha. A large and elegant building Shën Shpëtimtarit, Crkva Svetog Spasa) E-4, Rr.
teries, but we’ve indicated what’s currently possible. A full with many windows, this mosque from 1561 lies directly Kalaja. Halfway up the hill to the fortress, this church dates
day will allow you to see many of the sights reviewed here, behind the Albanian League Museum and forms a fantastic from King Stefan Dušan’s rule, around 1330. The complex con-
though it’s recommended to call ahead to check opening Ottoman-era ensemble together with the museum, a hand- sists of two parts, a small 14th century church with medieval
times if you’re set on visiting a particular museum. ful of period buildings across the street and the nearby frescoes and a larger extension with a belfry that was started
hamam, which also belongs to this mosque. The calm in 1836 but was never finished. From the mid-1800s the church
gardens have benches and overlook the complex with a was in use by Prizren’s Vlach community, an originally nomadic
Prizren Fortress hexagonal mausoleum that was built for the founder and group that roamed the Balkans as shepherds.
two schools. Inside, under the spacious dome are a marble
Prizren Fortress (Kalaja) E-3. Strategically dominat- mihrab and mimber. Church of Our Lady of Ljeviš (Shën Premte, Crkva
ing the town, the deep Lumbardhi valley and the Dukagjini
The mosque and Pintolli Mill in the Marash district
Bogodorice Ljeviške, Cuma Camii) C-3, Rr. Sahat
plains, the ancient fortress has been a place for defence Kërëk Mosque (Kërëk Xhamia, Namazxhah) A- Kulla. Just west of the city centre, Prizren’s oldest and most
and refuge since prehistoric times. On top of the 500-me- 1, Rr. De Rada. Prizren’s first Muslim prayer place, in the spectacular Byzantine church - a UNESCO World Heritage
tre high Cvilen hill immediately southeast of the centre, park directly opposite the bus station, was built during the Sinan Pasha Mosque (Xhamia e sofi Sinan Pa- Site - dates back to the 9th-11th centuries. The Byzantine
the fortress was significantly expanded and strengthened invasion of Prizren in 1455 and was meant as a place of shës) D-3, Sheshi Shadërvan. Prizren’s most prominent cathedral built on this spot, first mentioned in a charter by
in Byzantine and Ottoman times and was still exclusively prayer for the Ottoman Army. Also known under its Turkish mosque, towering over Shadërvan square from a raised Emperor Basil II in 1018, was remodelled and expanded in
used as a fortress until 1912. It fell in disrepair since, with name, Namazxhah, the simple roofless structure consists level, is from 1615. Lovers of Ottoman architecture admire it 1307 by King Milutin of Serbia, but this location has an even
no remaining structures and deteriorating walls that are of a raised stone floor and a minaret without stairs. Falling for its strength, compactness, gracefulness and elegance, more complex history, as this predecessor was also built
currently being consolidated. A €2 million EU grant will pay into disrepair and surrounded by new buildings up to the and know that the type of architecture represents a rarity on the remains of an early Christian basilica. With a unique
for more reconstruction works in coming years. Walking 1960s, it was reconstructed in 1999 by the Institution for in Islamic art. The mosque is delicately decorated with geo- architectural design of alternating layers of brink and lime-
up the steep path from the old town past the mainly the Protection of Monuments with donations from Turkish metrical designs, still life paintings and curtains. A lengthy stone, the present-day structure is one of the best surviving
abandoned Nën Kalaja (Pod Kalaja) district to the ruined institutions. restoration project that ended in 2010 saw the building examples of late Byzantine architecture anywhere in Europe.
fortress will take about 15 minutes and gets you the best completely renovated. It was believed that the stones used Inside, the wall frescoes are of high quality and depict scenes
views of the city centre, especially in the morning when the Kukli Bej Mosque (Xhamia e Saraçhanes) D-3, to build the mosque originated from the Holy Archangels’ such as the Wedding at Canaa, the Healing of the Blind, and
sun is behind you, and at sunset. A gravel path leads from Rr. Saraçëve. Near Gazi Mehmet Pasha’s hamam and the Monastery, and in 1919 Serbian authorities started to dis- the Most Holy Mother of God with Christ the Guardian. The
the highest point of the fortress to the Lumbardhi valley, Halveti Tekke, Kukli Bej or Saraçhane Mosque dates from mantle the mosque in order to rebuild the monastery. The church was converted into a mosque by the Ottomans, who
from where you can walk to the Marash district. Just to 1534 and is unusual for having just one dome, covered with porch stones were removed, with the columns thrown in the placed a minaret on top of the tower, but when the Ottomans
the east, the small Kalaja e Cuces (Kiz Kalasi) or ‘Girl’s stone slabs. It’s part of the compound that also houses river, but mass protests stopped the demolition, and the departed in 1912 this was reversed, with the minaret being
Fortress’ is also ancient, and currently home to a KFOR the Halveti Tekke, and the dervishes interestingly use this porch was finally rebuilt in 2009. removed in 1923.
base. Q Open 24hrs. Admission free. mosque for prayers as well. There’s not much to see in the Interestingly, Turkish-speaking Prizrenites still refer to the
whitewashed interior. Suzi Çelebi Mosque (Xhamia e Suzi Çelebisë, Sozi building as Cuma Camii, or ‘Friday Mosque’. Research and
Xhamia) B-3, Rr. Rrasat e Kosharës. The first proper restoration works were carried out as late as the 1950s.
Myderiz Ali Efendi Mosque (Xhamia e Myderriz mosque building in Prizren was constructed in 1513 by Suzi The church was closed after 1999, and after fire damaged
Mosques Ali Efendisë) C-4, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali. With a location Çelebi, a well-known Prizren poet who wrote popular books the interior in 2004, Italian experts have confirmed that the
Prizren has no less than 30 mosques, about one per city testifying to Prizren’s long history of religious and ethnic about the various Ottoman military campaigns he joined. Çelebi majority of the famed frescoes can be restored, though work
district, many of them from the Ottoman period. The city tolerance, this small mosque from 1581 lies directly opposite lies buried in the mausoleum beside the mosque, together with yet has to start. The graceful brick exterior and the location
skyline - best viewed from the fortress - is dominated by the Catholic church. Hemmed in by a triangle of streets, the his brother. The elegant roof and porch reveal an interior with opposite the Archaeological museum make it well worth a
their minarets. Built by local craftsmen using local decora- walls, dome and halls are covered by clay tiles and the interior wood carvings featuring a rose decorating the ceiling. The visit for the exterior alone.
tive elements, but greatly influenced by Ottoman culture, features a mimbar and mahvil. The mausoleum of Ali Efendi gardens also have a half-ruined old library building.
these graceful buildings were designed with soaring interior is placed in the compound too.
spaces that formed a unity with the dome, porch and mina-
ret on the exterior. They were neglected for many years, but Churches
recent restoration projects, often funded and coordinated Mosque basics Prizren has several wonderful medieval churches, as well
by Turkey, have seen several buildings restored. Visitors are as a handful of more modern ones. All of the Orthodox
very welcome to visit, though many mosques are frequently Like churches, mosque design around the world adheres Christian churches and chapels are now guarded by the
locked up outside prayer times. Time your visit from 12:00 to certain rules. There’s usually a dome on the building, Kosovo Police, some closed and surrounded by barbed
to 13:00 and from 14:00 to 18:00, or a little while after the a slender minaret tower beside it for the call to prayer wire, others with officers on constant guard. Apart from
call for prayer when people leave the mosque. Photography (ezan) five times per day, and a porch where the faithful the Episcopal Church of St George which is usually open,
is not a problem, though you need be modestly dressed and can take off their shoes. A washing area is provided for most Orthodox churches are locked up. Those keen on
take your shoes off to enter. ablutions before prayers. The building is always set so viewing the interiors are advised to contact the Institu-
that the mihrab (veneration niche) is pointing to the holy tion for Protection of Monuments (IPM) in advance to
Arasta Minaret (Xhamia e Evrenos Beut, Arasta) city of Mecca, with to the right of it a mimber (pulpit), of- enquire about the possibility of entering these buildings.
D-3, Rr. Adem Jashari. Sadly, only a lone minaret marks the ten consisting of a steep staircase with a pointy tower on
spot where once a mosque complex of nearly 300 square top. Larger mosques are often part of a walled complex Cathedral of Our Lady of Perpetual Succour (Kat-
metres stood. The complex, named Arasta and dating back with a garden, graves, sometimes a tyrbe (mausoleum) edralja e Zonjës Ndihmëtare) Rr. Papa Gjon Pali.
to 1594, held the mosque and crafts shops spreading to and and dershana (library), and a madrasa and maktab Prizren’s main Catholic church from 1870 is a fairly typical
even on top of the bridge across the river. In 1960, progressive (religious primary and secondary schools). Subtle painted Italian-inspired buildings with three naves and marble-clad
planners decided to do away with it all so they could construct a and ceramic decorations are common, though these columns. The facade is remarkable for the variety of stone
grand new town centre that’s fit for Socialist Man. The minaret never portray people or animals and usually focus on used, while the interior frescoes above the door depict the
which was left standing as a reminder of Arasta was renovated floral or geometric patterns, ornaments and arabeska medieval Christian Albanian hero Skënderbeu (Skenderbeg)
in 2007, and there are new plans to do away with the kiosks (Arabic calligraphy). who unified Albanians and kept the Ottomans at bay, against
surrounding it to better emphasise the lost heritage. all odds. Depicted beside him is the great Transylvanian Unesco Heritage: Our Lady of Ljeviš

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18 WHat to see WHat to see 19

The Runner of Prizren Tekkes Tourist information

The Sufi mystic tradition, closely linked to Islam, was
The earliest and most brought to Kosovo and Albania before and during the Otto- Prizren has no official tourism information
famous archaeologi- man period. Like Muslims, the believers (called muhib) also office yet, but visitors with questions are
cal find in Prizren is worship one god, but gather at prayer rooms called tekkes welcome to contact the municipality or the
the Runner of Prizren rather than at mosques, and use a very liberal interpreta- office of Cultural Heritage without Borders
(Vrapuesja e Prizrenit), tion that comes close to pantheism. This is considered blas- (in Pristina) for advice. Given advance
a bronze figure of a phemous by some Muslims and sufism is therefore banned warning, the IPM can assist with access
running girl, which may in several countries. Dervishes claim to communicate with to various monuments.
have been attached to the devine through a sheh, the spiritual leader of the com-
a vessel or a utensil. munity, and perform a specific ritual called ziker, meaning Cultural Heritage without Borders Rr. R.
According to special- remembrance or invocation. During ziker, dervishes pray Zogovic 8, Pristina, tel. +381 38 24 39 18, kosovo@
ists at th e Bri tish and sing ilahi songs, while some perform a spinning dance chwb.org, www.chwb.org/kosovo. QOpen 09:00
Museum it was pos- that brings them into a trance or state of ecstacy. Ziker - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
sibly crafted in Sparta represents both a solemn ritual and a spiritual state of mind
around 500BC. It may or heart, in which the devotee seeks to realise the presence Directorate for Economic Development and
have reached Prizren Shadërvan square with St. George’s Church Tourism B-3, Rr. Remzi Ademi (town hall), tel. +381
of God - thus there is zikr of the mind and zikr of the heart.
as a precious gift or as loot, and used as a grave offering The Sufi order religious leadership is family-based, with sons 29 63 28 43. The municipality’s tourism department
before it was discovered in the 19th century. A dealer took inherited the ‘spiritual power’ of the father. Various orders (ta- Saraçhane Tekke (Halveti Tekke, Teq ja e can help with general enquiries. QOpen 08:00 - 16.00.
it to London and sold it to the British Museum in 1876, rikats) are represented in Kosovo, including the Halveti, Rufai, Saraçhanes) D-3, Rr. Farkatarëve 36, tel. +381 29 Closed Sat, Sun.
where it remains till now. Kaderi, Sadi and Sinani orders. All are welcoming to visitors, 23 04 68, shejhabidinshehu@hotmail.com. The Halveti
and several tekkes in Prizren can be visited. The best time to order tekke in Prizren was built by Sheh Osman in 1713, and Institution for the Protection of Monuments
do so is between 15:00 and 18:00 when the dervishes and is the most atmospheric of all Prizren tekkes, situated right (IPM) D-4, Rr. Marin Barleti. On request, the IPM, right
perhaps the sheh are available for a chat. Like in mosques, in the centre of town near the hamam, the historic Sheh next to the Sinan Pasha Mosque, can arrange access to
Church of St Nicholas (Kisha e Shën Nikollës, shoes need to be removed before entering a tekke, though Hasan House and beside the Saraçhane mosque which the monuments that are otherwise closed. QOpen 08:00
Crkva Svetog Nikole) C-4. Also known as Tutić’s women are required to cover their heads during rituals only. dervishes share with Muslims for prayer. The tekke is a walled - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Church, this is a typical feudal family church with wonderful compound with various buildings surrounding a wonderful
architecture and good fragments of frescoes executed by Kaderi the Kurila Tekke (Teqja Kaderi e Kurilës) courtyard with bubbling fountains, ornate stone carvings, and
the same artists who did the frescoes in the St. Savior. A F-1, Rr. Kurila, babashe17@hotmail.com. The Qadiriyyah a garden. Around it are the semahane which is the main cer- Museum first opened its doors in 1975. Now fully renovated in
preserved stone inscription reports that it was built in 1331 Sufi order is one oldest and most widespread in the Islamic emony room, a mausoleum for the Halveti shehs, and a living one of the loveliest interiors in Prizren, the museum holds over
by local landowner Dragoslav Tutic (later as a monk called world, arriving in Prizren around 1500 when Horosanli Sheh room for the dervishes. The local leader, Shejh Abidin Shehu, 800 items of archaeological interest from antiquity to the 19th
Nicholas) and his wife Bela. Beyond, the grand Episcopal- Hasan Baba built this tekke north of the city centre. The has a dervish ready to receive guests daily after 16:00. The century, discovered in Prizren, Dragash, Rahovec and Suhareka.
Metropolitan Residence which was reconstructed in 2008, semahane ceremony room holds the symbolic stones that ziker is held every Thursday at 22:30 (19:00 in winter), lasts A fascinating insight into the history of the region, the building
is the official residence for the bishop of the Prizren Diocese, were used by first sheh to determine the building’s location, one to two hours, and is open for the public. also features a clock tower built towards the end of the 19th
founded in 1018. some ancient weapons, musical instruments and flags of vari- century with Baroque elements by Eshref Pasha. Originally the
ous shehs with Arabic texts. The semahane is flanked by two tower contained a chiming clock which was removed in 1912.
Episcopal Church of St George (Kisha e Shën smaller rooms, and two courtyards, one with an ancient foun- Museums The view from the city and surrounding mountains from the
Gjergjit, Crkva Svetog Đorđa) D-4, Sheshi Shadërvan. tain that’s decorated with Arabic script. Visitors are welcome, Albanian League of Prizren Museum (Muzeu Lid- observation post (babafinga) at the top is well worth the struggle
A prominent monument in the city centre, the large Episcopal and can watch the two-hour ziker ceremony accompanied by hja Shqiptare e Prizrenit) E-2/3, Rr. Sharri, tel. +377 to get up there. Note that the museum has not been officially
Church from 1887 is situated on the site of an earlier church. prayers and ilahi music every Friday at 17:00. 44 19 14 27. One of Kosovo’s most important historical opened; call ahead to plan a visit. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed
The interior was originally richly decorated with ashlar stones, sites, the Albanian League of Prizren Museum is a complex Sat, Sun. Admission €1.
polished onyx, marble panes, frescoes, icons gathered here Rufa’i Tekke (Teqja e Rufaive) A-4, Rr. Kaçaniku 3, of four buildings which has seen plenty of change of the past
from various churches, and a wooden iconostasis. Restora- tel. +381 29 22 35 13, adri_tours@hotmail.com. One of decades as the buildings were first relocated due to road Electrical Industry Museum (Muzeu i Hidroekon-
tion by a multi-ethnic team of craftsmen was recently finished, the last orders to arrive in Kosovo, the Rufa’i Tekke can be construction in the 1960s, and destroyed by Serbian forces omisë-Hidroelektrana Prizrenasja) Lumbardhi river
and work on the white marble interior was completed in early found west of the city centre behind the Gjon Buzuku school. in 1999. Now completely reconstructed, the museum is im- valley. Close to the Holy Archangel Monastery, the Electrical
2010. Casual visitors are welcome to have a look inside after The first sheh, Rufa’iyyah, arrived in the Balkans from Istanbul portant to ethnic Albanians, Bosniaks and Turks across the Industry Museum provided Prizren’s first electricity when it
asking permission from the police stationed outside. Right in the late 19th century, and the current leader is Sheh Adrihu- region as it is the place where patriots and intellectuals from was built in 1929. The small hydro-electric plant worked for
beside the Episcopal Church stands the small Church of St sein Shehu. The interior walls are decorated with paintings of Kosovo, Macedonia and the Sanxhak region gathered on June over half a century before being turned into a museum in
George, or Runović’s Church, from the 14th-16th century. This ancient weapons, blades, and musical instruments used during 10, 1878, to start the political, military and cultural struggle 1979. Now in a state of disrepair, the museum can be visited
picturesque single-aisled chapel has a barrel vault and used rituals. Visitors are welcome on Monday to Thursday; on Friday against the Ottoman Empire in order to appeal to the Berlin by contacting the IPM. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat,
to be richly decorated with 16th century frescoes. they hold their ziker ritual in private. The tekke is especially Congress for an autonomous Albanian state. The history, Sun. Admission free.
worth visiting on 22 March when the tekke celebrates Sulltan ethnology and art collections have period pieces relating to
Holy Ar changel Monaster y (Manastiri i Nevruz, an annual festival with traditional rituals that is named the 1878 meeting but many items are in poor condition, and
kryeëng jëjve, Manastir Svetog Arhanđela) Lum- after the Persian novruz, or new day. That day, dervishes pierce there are no English captions. The curator will be happy to tell
bardhi river valley. Just outside the city on the main road themselves with needles during ziker, yet don’t bleed. you about the collection, but you’ll need a local to translate for
into the Sharri Mountains National Park is what at first glance you. Still, the traditional wooden house within the compound is
appears to be a KFOR base. The Holy Archangel Monastery is quite beautiful, with a half open porch, an old door and many
a holy site of immense importance to the Serbian Orthodox decorative wooden elements. Upstairs, look for the wonderful
Church. Built between 1343 and 1352 as a burial site for the and very heavy xhubleta traditional dress and the collection
Serbian emperor Stefan Uroš IV Dušan (circa 1308-1355) at of patriotic paintings. At the entrance of the compound go to
his own command, the complex once contained a monastery the first floor of the quaint and creaky library building to see
and two small churches. In the 15th century, the site was evocative photos from the 19th and 20th centuries.QOpen
abandoned and used as a quarry for Prizren’s Sinan Pasha 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission €1/0,20.
Mosque. The complex was damaged in 1999 and 2004 and all
that remains now are a few buildings dating from the late part Archaeological Museum (Turkish bath with clock
of the 20th century, where eight monks live under constant tower, Muzeu Arkeologjik) C-3, Rr. Saraç, tel. +377 44
protection. In 1927, Stefan Dušan’s remains were moved to 21 78 42. Once functioning as a Turkish bathhouse and built
Belgrade, and visiting the site is nearly impossible, and even by Ahmet Shemsedin Bey in 1498 although possibly dating to
photography is forbidden. The Albanian League of Prizren Museum back before this time, Prizren’s recently renovated Archaeological Prizren’s Catholic cathedral

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20 WHat to see WHat to see 21

Citizen houses Parks City tours

Although you need to keep your eyes wide open to spot
them, Prizren has a number of original two-storey ‘citizen City park (Parku i qytetit) H/I-5, Rr. Mehmet Horse cart rides D-3, Sheshi Shadërvan, tel. +377
houses’ (shtëpi qytetare) dating from the 18th and 19th Hasi. A ten-minute walk west of the centre, the city park 44 55 94 43. A lovely way to see the city is to clippity-clop
centuries. Different from the stone-constructed kulla is a green oasis in a bend of the river Lumbardhi, with around the streets in Kadri Palla’s cart, pulled by Rubin
tower houses of western Kosovo, citizen houses are walking paths and modern sports fields. the horse. The original antique cart has been on Prizren’s
distinct in a number of ways, most notably in that they streets for over 70 years, starting off as a taxi service,
feature a ground floor made of stone and an upper level Marashi Park (Parku Marashi) E-2, F-3, Rr. En- later switching to the tourism and wedding day trade. A
of clay. There are two types of citizen house, the first built ver Haradinaj. Bordering the Marash district just east of 20-minute ride for five people costs €5. Find Kadri waiting
onto the street with a courtyard at the back and the other the city centre, this park lines the banks of the Lumbardhi on Sheshi Shadërvan, or call for a pick-up.
set away from the street with the courtyard at the front. river and offers walking and jogging paths leading up to
High walls surround the complexes, allowing the men to the fortress, playgrounds and some cafés.
conduct business while family life took place in strictly
segregated areas.
Prizren has many characteristic houses, including the Mustafa (Pomaku) House (Shtëpia e familjes Mus-
Musa Shehzade House, Grazhdo House and Adem Aga tafa (Pomaku) D-3, Rr. Saraçët. This gorgeous example
Gjoni House, but we list the three most interesting houses of a classic Prizren citizen house is concealed behind a large
here, all of which are found in varying states of repair and wooden gate and has been lovingly preserved by its owners.
all still in daily use. Some are still owned by the same Opening the gate rings a bell that’s connected to the house
families that had them built hundreds of years ago. Privacy by a wire and reveals a building that’s believed to date back
should be respected, although visitors with a genuine in- as far as the 18th century. The house is set in a cobblestone
terest are encouraged to knock and speak to the owners. courtyard with a series of stone columns that once made up an
If they’re not busy they might just let you in, a treat that external architectural feature but that are now used purely for
really makes a visit to Prizren complete. Else, you could decorative purposes. A closed balcony (doksat) has elements
try asking the IPM or the Albanian League Museum for a of the original design. The owner is very friendly and has been
formal tour. known to allow visitors inside. Those who do manage to see
the interior will find extraordinarily well preserved rooms with Ruben and his owner on Sheshi Shadërvan
Gani Dukag jini’s House (Shtëpia e Familjes Duk- classic wooden ceilings and original doors.
ag jini) E-2/3, Rr. Gani Çavdarbasha, tel. +377 44 19 The old clock tower on the Archaeological Museum
14 27. Located along the river near the Albanian League of Sheh Hasan’s House (Shtëpia e Sheh Hasanit) D-3, Stone Bridge (Ura e Gurit) D-3. Many bridges cross
Prizren complex, the 19th century Gani Dukag jini’s House is Rr. Farkatarët. Found behind the Theranda hotel, Sheh Hasan’s Lumbardhi valley (Lugina e Lumbardhit) F-3. Part of the Lumbardhi River that bisects Prizren. The triple-arched
a fine example of classic citizen house architecture. Featuring House is another classic example of 19th century citizen house the city yet seemingly another world, the Lumbardhi valley is Stone Bridge was the first to be constructed with stones
some marvellous wooden carvings on the exterior, the house architecture. Not in such good condition as some and now divided reached by following the path along the river upstream from as it was the most important in the city, linking Shadërvan
is set back from the street with a small courtyard at the front into separate dwelling spaces for a number of residents, the build- Marash. Walking, jogging or cycling up the valley you’ll soon Square with the hamam and mosque complex across the
paved with cobblestones, which still contains the small flowing ing contains many rich folkloric architectural elements including be surrounded by forested hillsides, passing the field used river. It dates from the 16th century, and stood strong for
water channel that was used for domestic purposes when a wooden garret in the middle of the front façade, offering street for the Dokufest festival camp and a jogging route. Enter four centuries before heavy floods washed it away in 1979.
the building was originally constructed. The house is also views from behind elegant wooden pillars. Other characteristic the white stone passage and you’ll go uphill, ending up at The current reincarnation was built soon after.
particularly notable for its fine, half-open porch. elements include the wide roof and a fountain. Together with the the fortress, from where you can quickly descend to the city
adjacent Halveti Tekke and Saraçhane Mosque, the house and centre. Tabakhane Mill (Mulliri në Tabakhane) B-3, Rr. Remzi
immediate surroundings give a good indication of how the area Ademi. At one time Prizren boasted several mills spread out
once looked at its prime at the end of the 19th century. Marash district (Kompleksi përmendor Marashi) along the fast-running Lumbardhi river that flows through its
E-2. Just upriver from the Albanian League Museum, at the centre, the intriguing Tabakhane Mill being the last of a dying
foot of the hill, a small area has managed to preserve the breed. Dating from the 20th century, blink and you’ll miss this
Places of interest atmosphere of old Prizren more than elsewhere. Consisting place, small and slightly hidden away as it is. Taking its power
City Hall (Komuna e Prizrenit) C-3, Rr. Remzi Ademi. of several traditional residential buildings, the 1833 Mosque by thrusting river water along a pipe under the mill that powers
The wall of the otherwise unremarkable Yugoslav-era city of Maksut Pasha, and a mausoleum of the Saadi order, it’s a two sets of millstones grinding corn and wheat, the technol-
hall, along the road between the bus station and the centre, calm spot to wander and imagine how all Balkan towns once ogy hasn’t changed for centuries. The mill is an unassuming
has been turned into a greeting to the world, with thank-you were. Be sure to visit the restored 18th century Shotman and rather drab building made of stone and clay and with a
messages spelled out in the languages of all 60+ nations that Mill (now café Mullini), which has a branch of the river gush- dilapidated tin roof and isn’t exactly a tourist attraction - but
have officially recognised Kosovo as an independent state so ing straight through it, down wooden troughs which would the doors are generally open and visitors are welcome. QOpen
far. The letters are stuck on a bit wonky and the spelling isn’t have driven the waterwheels for grinding wheat and corn. 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
always spot on, but the gesture is certainly sincere. By the river, a fat 400-year-old plane tree, the only of its kind
in Balkans, is located beside a natural spring and provides
Gazi Mehmet Pasha Hamam (Hamami i Gazi-Mehmet welcome shade to the people chatting beneath its branches
Pashës) D-3, Rr. Adem Jashari, tel. +377 44 62 45 58. Ac- in the summer months.
cording to most accounts, this glorious, early-Ottoman Turkish
bathhouse was built at the behest of Gazi Mehmet Pasha, Sanjak NATO Monument (Monumenti i NATO-s) Sheshi
Bey of Iskenderiye (Shkodra) in about 1575. Combining elements Ekrem Rexha. A monument resembling the NATO emblem
of both Oriental and local architectural styles, the building was and surrounded by flags of the member states was inaugu-
made from rubble stones and hydraulic lime with plastered inter- rated in June 2010, to thank the organisation for its contribu-
nal wall surfaces. Unusual for a hamam in the Prizren region, the tion to the liberation of and peacekeeping in Kosovo.
building was designed to accommodate both men and women at
the same time (ordinarily, the two sexes would bathe in the same
hamam at different times), and the individual entrances, changing Prizren in Your iPhone
and bathing areas along with much of the original extraordinary
design can still be seen. Although structurally sound, the interior The full Prizren In Your Pocket guide is also available as
is in a bit of a mess and the building is generally closed with the an iPhone app, complete with GPS coordinates for all
exception of times when it functions as a temporary art gallery listings. See www.prizren.inyourpocket.com for more.
The Mustafa house and chamber music venue. Entrance to Gani Dukag jini’s House

Prizren In Your Pocket prizren.inyourpocket.com prizren.inyourpocket.com 2010 - 2011

24 daytriPs daytriPs
daytriPs 25

Daytrips: east of Prizren Place names Prevalla Food & Lodging: Reçan & Sharri
Close to the Macedonian border some 26km east of Prizren
Albanian Serbian at an altitude of just over 1,500m, Prevalla’s unique location Villa Park
Sharri Mountains National Park gives it a combined Mediterranean and continental climate. Featuring a large, aristocratic interior and a series of
The mighty Sharri Mountains (Malet e Sharrit) cover a Bresanë Brodosavce A gruelling, white-knuckle drive along winding roads with the large terraces outside spread out along the Lumbar-
total of 1,600 square kilometres shared between Kosovo, occasional herd of sheep getting in the way, a trip to Prevalla dhi river in the heart of the Reçan Valley, this superb
Brod Brod restaurant just east of Reçan serves a mighty range
Albania and Macedonia. Containing over 20 mountains is worth the effort even if you’re only thinking of going there
Buzez Buzec of local and international dishes including a mouth-
over 2,000 metres and at least 10 significantly large for something to eat. Little more than a sprawling collection of
lakes, the mountains are hugely popular with scores of Dragash Dragaš buildings, Prevalla’s stunning scenery attracts hikers year-round watering selection of grilled meats and the local
visitors and locals alike for the many hiking, skiing, rock- Dukagjini Metohija and during the winter also provides a basic ski run, suitable speciality Sharri cheese, similar to Cypriot haloumi.
climbing and other leisure pursuits they afford. The 380 Hoça e Madhe Velika Hoča for beginners and intermediate skiers and snowboarders. The fresh bread is totally out of this world, there’s a
square-kilometre Sharri Mountains National Park, which Complete with a simple ski lift, the run is surrounded by several great range of desserts and they also stock a wide
Mamushë Mamuşa selection of the local Stone Castle wines. Local
is entirely in Kosovo, offers all of the above opportunities small kiosks which open in the winter and that all rent the
for visitors and more besides. Bursting with an abundance Prevallë Prevalac equipment necessary to use the slope without having to bring band Kuarteti Pentagram (www.kuartetipentagram.
of magnificent flora and fauna, the park is also speckled Rahovec Orahovac your own. Prices are more than affordable. org) turn up from time to time to serenade the din-
with colourful towns and villages representing the rich Reçan Rečane ers. Credit cards accepted. Highly recommended.
ethnic diversity of the region. Still relatively unspoilt and Sharri Šar Q Villa Park, Reçan, tel. +377 44 29 59 73,
slowly developing a full tourist infrastructure, the park open 08:00 – 24:00.
Vërmicë Vrbnica
offers visitors scores of beguiling possibilities for the
adventurous traveller. White House
Avid hikers should get in touch with the prizren-based The next building east from Villa Park also features an
Sharri Mountain Association (Shoqata e bjeshkatarëve action-packed menu of artery-clogging grilled meat
Sharri, www.shbsharri.org) which has over 200 members Reçan dishes. It also comes with a collection of wooden
from all communities and ages who love the great The village of Reçan, a few kilometres outside Prizren, chalets which visitors can stay in for a good price.
outdoors. The association organises regular activities straddles the Lumbardhi river at the foot of the Sharri Q White House, tel. +377 44 12 03 37, white-
that aim to develop and promote responsible mountain M ountains. Populated alm ost entirel y by Bosnian house_pz@hotmail.com, open 08:00 - 24:00.
tourism, among others hiking, orientation, mountain Muslims, it has a population of around 2,600 people
rescue, environmental protection, and path signing. who are renowned for the food and traditions such as Sharri Prevallë, Prizren-Brezovica road, km20, tel.
The association has a mountain hut set at 1,300 colourful clothes and weddings. A popular destination +377 44 66 26 74/+377 44 50 19 97. Set at an
metres above sea level, with 11 rooms and 100 beds, for holidaying locals, stopping off to have a look around altitude of 1,200m, Sharri is a relatively new and relatively
two kitchens and a TV hall, that is available for foreign is well worth the ef fort. The town is famous for its luxurious hotel with spectacular views of the surrounding
visitors. The hut is just 30 minutes from Prizren, and can restaurants which specialise in superb grilled meat dishes mountains. Accommodation options include clean rooms
be reached by car. and fresh bread. with en suite facilities and several villas (large ones
sleeping 4-6 people) for a more self-catering type of
stay at affordable prices. The restaurant serves local and
Prevalla views international dishes. Q 20 rooms (singles €40, doubles
€50-70, villas €65-80). PHAILK

Madera
Food & Lodging: Prevalla In the centre of Reçan just off the main road, Madera
is a simple-looking restaurant with a magician work-
Eja ing in the kitchen. With the exception of perhaps the
Prevallë. Immediately opposite Prevalla’s ski run, Eja’s fried brains everything on the menu, which features
restaurant is a melting pot of guns and animal skins, with a host of dishes from trout to the fabulous sounding
a menu that explains what they did with the insides of Shouting (Bedlam) Beefsteak, comes highly recom-
the beasts on the walls. Out the back are a few cheap mended. During the summer an upstairs terrace
rooms for rent, all of them basic to say the least, with en opens, making it even more attractive than ever.
suite facilities in all. Q (rooms €20).

Kulla e Jetimit
Prevallë. Run by a local charity which ploughs its profits
into the well-being of the region’s less privileged children
and orphans, this extraordinary place right next to the
ski run has several restaurants and a hotel. The small
restaurant at the front of the building is the more rustic
and features a nice pot-bellied stove in the middle of the
room. Hot food is cooked in both a traditional wood-fired
oven (try their truly delicious pide) and on a rotating stick,
the latter providing excellent value and much talked about
doner kebabs. Also not to be missed is their fresh fruit
juice, made from local blueberries. No alcohol is served
on the premises. The rooms feature amazing carved
wooden beds. There’s also a large garden out the back,
an extremely popular place during the summer. The
owners claim that the air here has extraordinary healing
properties, even going to far as to state that three weeks
here will completely rejuvenate and cleanse the body.
Q 7 rooms (doubles €15). K
In the woods near Prevalla

Prizren In Your Pocket prizren.inyourpocket.com prizren.inyourpocket.com 2010 - 2011

26 daytriPs daytriPs 27

Daytrips: south of Prizren Bresanë & Buzëz Brod Daytrips north-west of Prizren
If you’ve got a real taste for adventure and plenty of time Not to be confused with the neighbouring village of the
on your hands, an interesting diversion into the true back same name just over the Macedonian border, Brod is
Dragash of beyond to the village of Bresanë and the neighbouring situated close to the end of another perilously winding Mamusha
Immediately south of Prizren in the direction of both hamlet of Buzëz provides an interesting and rewarding way road through breathtaking mountain scenery. A somewhat Kosovo’s newest municipality, and the only one with a Turkish
Albania and Macedonia, Dragash is both a district and of spending two or three hours. Note that signposts simply nondescript place full of narrow streets with little in the way majority, is 15km north of Prizren, on the Rahovec road.
town (also known to the Kosovar Albanian population don’t exist in this neck of the woods, although thankfully of entertainment, the majority of the 8,000 or so people who Famous for beautiful nature and worth a stop for the historical
as Sharr), and gets its name from the 14th century there’s usually plenty of people out and about to help point live here are Gorani, who rely on sheep and cattle for their Ottoman clock tower, it’s expecially well known for tomato
Serbian lord, Constantine Dragaš. Featuring a hitherto you down the right road. livelihoods much the same way as they’ve done for centuries. cultivation. The annual Tomato Festival takes place on 23 July,
almost entirely unexplored, ancient cultural heritage, The village boasts one small shop and a café, and is worth offering visitors a chance to try traditional local food including
the area was once part of a Roman trade route linking having a quick look around before heading further east to pie, watermelon, and of course tomatos, while local folklore
the Macedonian town of Tetova with Shkodra in Albania. Kukli Mehmed Bej’s Mosque the very end of the trail. ensembles perform music and dance.
Today the region depends heavily on sheep and cattle Towards the end of a small road full of holes lies the equally
farming, with tourism barely making an impact. Covering diminutive village of Bresanë. Las Vegas it isn’t, but it is
an area of 435 square kilometres, the average altitude notable as being both a classic example of a typical local Rahovec
is around 1,500m, making it an ideal place for rural rural community and also claims a rather charming mosque. Archaeological evidence suggests that the bustling hillside town
and winter tourism. Ethnically, the region is made up The exact history of Kukli Mehmed Bej’s Mosque is unknown, and surrounding region of Rahovec approximately 30km north
predominantly of local Albanians, Bosniaks (Muslims of although it’s believed to date from before 1538. Built in of Prizren has been populated since at least Illyrian times some
Bosnian origin) and a handful of Gorani, a mysterious a rectangular form, in the southeast corner close to the two thousand years ago. Mentioned as a settlement along
localised Muslim ethnic group. Much of the countryside minaret is the mausoleum of Kukli Mehmed Bej’s family. with several other villages notable for the cultivation of grapes
is already popular with the locals for its wealth of flora The roof is of a classic stone tile construction, and inside in 1384, the region is made up of a combination of hills, valleys
and fauna, much of the latter considered fair game by the simple white plastered exterior the interior is notable and mountains and offers visitors countless things to see and
local hunters. for a rather extraordinary clock, with prayer times lit up in do. The majority of the population are Kosovar Albanian although
red LEDs showing a list of extraordinarily exact times for there are a few notable Serb enclaves of interest as well.
prayer (11:44, 18:07 etc). An identical timepiece can be Agriculture remains the prime source of income for the region,
Lake Vërmica found in Prizren’s Bajrakli Mosque. The attached cemetery with the cultivation of grapes for wine making being among the
Some 17km south of Prizren on the main road to Kukës is in excellent condition, boasting a marvellous collection of top industries. The town itself is a lively and colourful place, full of
and the Albanian border crossing at Drinas, Lake Vërmica stone and wooden graves that go back centuries. shops and cafés and worth further investigation on foot.
is in reality the far northern tip of Albania’s Lake Fierza,
an artificial body of water created in 1978 to generate
electricity for Enver Hoxha’s beleaguered communist Namazxhah Clock tower
Mountain landscape around Brod
regime. At the time, the lake came as an unpleasant Immediately east of the village of Buzëz on the brow of small Close to the centre of town in the mixed neighbourhood of
surprise to the Yugoslav authorities, who had not been hill and set back on the northeast side of the road are the Gradina, the rectangular clock tower from 1791 is made of
told the lake would encroach on their territory. The small remains of the so-called Namazxhah, an open mosque of Food & Lodging: Brod stone held together with lime mortar, The tower’s Austro-
section of the lake in Kosovo barely covers two square the type built by the Ottomans when they first arrived in Hungarian-era bell that chimed the time disappeared, but
kilometres but still manages to pack visitors in during the region. Believed to predate the Namazxhah in Prizren, Arxhena Brod, tel./fax +381 29 28 51 70, www. ongoing restoration should see it replaced. The top of the
the summer, who come to the area to picnic on the lake’s which was built in 1455, the mosque fell into disrepair a long arxhena.com. Driving out of Brod towards the southeast tower features a black communist star that marks the
grassy banks, swim and fish for local trout. time ago and all that remains are the base of the original in the direction of Macedonia, the paved road ceases but highest spot in town – it’s fate is still undecided.
minaret and a few surviving remnants of the walls. A new continues as a dirt track for several more kilometres. In
stone bench at the back section of the ruins has been made good weather it’s possible to drive the track in a normal
Food & Lodging: Vërmica for the purpose of washing the bodies of deceased local vehicle, a bumpy ride of 10 minutes or so that’s finally
Muslims who are then laid to rest in the small cemetery rewarded with the sight of one of the most extraordinary
Univers located between the Namazxhah and the road. looking buildings in the region. Although Arxhena appears
Lake Vërmica, tel. +377 44 40 15 52/+377 44 41 to contain elements of classic Yugoslavian concrete archi-
41 72, www.univers-ks.eu.tt. One of the most popular tecture the building is much newer than this, and contains
places to eat along the short stretch of lake, and just a both a restaurant and small hotel. The 1,520m location
stone’s throw from the Albanian border. A large glass really feels like the edge of the world, especially during the
restaurant at the back of the building works all year low season when the complex is empty with the exception
round with a much larger outdoor space by the side of a couple of members of staff and the occasional pass-
of the lake, complete with bars, kitchens and jetty. By ing fisherman. The in-house restaurant provides hearty
local standards the menu is something of a revolution, local fare including the all the usual grilled meat dishes
possessing not only local dishes included local trout as well as the house special, mish katundi, a delicious
but also such rarities as burritos and even Thai food. clay pot full of meat and vegetables, cooked in the oven.
PHAGKC Surplus to the basic hotel facilities are outdoor tennis
courts and a small conference room. People flock here at The clock tower in Rahovec
Liqeni certain times of the year to take advantage of the hiking
Nothing much to write home about inside, but the lake- opportunities, ski on the slopes running up the side of
side summer terrace complete with cascading waterfalls the mountain behind the main building and to whizz about Mountain water
and tiny little footbridges play host to hordes of diners the landscape on snowmobiles. Many of the visitors walk
during the summer, not least because the tout served through the nearby pass that separates the complex An abundance of melting snow and fresh springs in the
here is legendary. Other dishes include fish soup, cala- from Macedonia a few kilometres to the east. Arxhena area around Prizren creates hundreds of small streams that
mari, corn bread and fruit salad. Q Liqeni, tel. +377 is 50km from Prizren and can be reached by car in good cascade down the mountains throughout the year. Driving
44 11 32 45, open 08:00 - 22:00. weather in about 90 minutes. In a fit of unprecedented around the mountains reveals an abundance of places
common sense, Arxhena’s owners have seen fit to erect where these streams have been tapped for public use.
a series of signs at strategic sites around the tiny streets Generally named in honour of the individual who built the tap,
of Brod making finding the place an absolute breeze. these often elaborately decorated drinking stations provide
Q 28 rooms (9 singles €30, 9 doubles €30-50, 10 the kind of fresh water most people can only dream about.
prizren.inyourpocket.com triples €45). HK Stopping for a drink is a must when in the area.
Kukli Mehmed Bej’s Mosque in Bresanë

Prizren In Your Pocket prizren.inyourpocket.com prizren.inyourpocket.com 2010 - 2011

28 daytriPs gJaKoVa 29

The relatively large city of Gjakova, a straightforward 30-

Stone Castle Vineyards & Winery Sharr Sheepdog minute drive northwest of Prizren, has its roots way back in
Located about half way along the northernmost of the two the Dardanian period of history. Known in previous times
roads to Rahovec that goes through the town of Fortesë, the The Sharr Sheepdog, known as Qeni i Sharrit in Albanian as Patkova, Reka and Altin, the name Gjakova (Đakovica
recently privatised Stone Castle vineyard and wine producer and Šarplaninac in Serbian is the traditional working dog in Serbian) first appeared in historical Ottoman records
offers a couple of interesting diversions for travellers in the area. in the area around the Sharri mountains where it’s most in 1485. During the 17th century the city went through a
Set in the glorious Rahovec Valley which receives an average commonly found. Weighing anything up to 80kg and period of rapid development, with many mosques, hans,
270 days of sunshine each year, the excellent combination sometimes even more, it is similar in colour to a German tekkes and a beautiful hamam being constructed during this
of climate and soil makes the Rahovec area an ideal location Shepherd but with a generally more squat face. Smart, time. Pride of place in the centre of the city was the Çarshia
for growing a number of different grapes for the production placid and loyal to their owners, encounters with the dog e Madhe, or Grand Bazaar, a large marketplace attracting
of several different types of wine, and has been doing so for whilst in Kosovo should be treated with minor caution traders from all over the region that was seriously damaged
several centuries. A annual total of 70,000 tonnes of grapes as they’re sometimes known to be hostile to strangers. during the 1999 war but that’s now almost completely
grown by Stone Castle and local grape growers on some 2,240 Used almost exclusively as herding animals and guard renovated. Unlike most of the other destinations outside of
hectares of land are used to produce up to 12 million litres of dogs, thinking of owning one as a pet isn’t recommended. Prizren mentioned in this guide, Gjakova has enough to see
wine, brandy and raki which is sold throughout Kosovo as well Prices of puppies start at around €500, with a fully grown and do to warrant an overnight stay. Gjakova has plenty to
as in the UK, The Netherlands, Switzerland and Austria and hound fetching somewhere in the region of €2,000. see, and the following few sights serve as a brief introduc-
other countries around Europe. Although they don’t organise tion to the city. A future In Your Pocket guide will dedicate
tours, Stone Castle do offer the option of private parties, in much more space to it.
which guests are asked to call in advance before bringing their of the building is a small row of kiosks, notable for selling locally
own food and paying €7 a head, a small sum that entitles them produced raki in bottles, each one containing a wooden cross
to drink as much wine as they like inside the main storage area carved by a local artist, some carefully contrived to extract What to see Hadum Mosque
among hundreds of large oak barrels. Be warned that the storage visitors’ money with the inclusion of intricately carved NATO Bektashi Tekke (Teqja e Bektashive) Çarshia e
area is cold. Don’t come in a t-shirt. Close to the main entrance motifs. To be sure the centre and the Lazar Kujundic Tower are Madhe. Home to Gjakova’s mystical Bektashi order, this
on the other side of the road is the Wine Castle shop, selling a open, contact the ChwB office in Pristina in advance. modern tekke painted in traditional green and white colours Hani i Haraqisë Çarshia e Vjetër, tel. +377 44 27 26
good range of everything they produce, including Chardonnay, was built in 2007 on the foundations of the original that burned 67. One of two traditional restaurants located inside an old
Rhine Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot noir as Lazar Kujundzic’s Tower to the ground during the 1999 war. Located in the centre of the han (inn) in Çarshia e Vjetër, this is the more flamboyant of the
well as the aforementioned spirits. Many of the restaurants In the lower part of the village the story of the Lazar Çarshia e Madhe, it’s open during the week when Sheh Baba two, featuring two floors of dining in magnificent surroundings.
listed in this guide sell Wine Castle products, which although Kujundic Tower, a typical example of a kulla from the Mumin Lama is only too pleased to show visitors around and to The building is one of the oldest in Gjakova, dating from 1562.
perhaps not heading for any global awards for excellence soon is Dukag jini/Metohija Plain and built towards the end of tell them about the history and philosophy of the Bektashi. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
perfectly fine to drink. The second Thursday of September sees the 19th century, is an interesting one dear to the locals’
the town of Rahovec celebrate the region’s annual Wine Festival, hearts. In 1905 the building was owned by a local Albanian Hadum Mosque (Xhamia e Hadumit) Çarshia e Pashtriku Rr. Nëna Terezë, tel. +377 44 54 77 01. The
featuring people dressed in the traditional clothing of the region, who one night took in a small group of Serbian freedom Madhe. Dating from the last decade of the 16th century and large Pashtriku hotel was built during the heady days of the
singing, dancing and the consumption of plenty of local wine. fighters including Lazar Kujundzic. Whilst they were built at the behest of Hadum Sylejman Efendia-Hadum Aga, 1980s and at the time was among the most prestigious places
Stone Castle Vineyards & Winery, tel. +381 29 27 60 53, staying here the Ottoman army surrounded and laid the this gorgeous mosque in the centre of the Çarshia e Madhe to stay in the region. Fully renovated after 1999, the hotel
info@stonecastlewine.com, www.stonecastlewine.com. building under siege, killing Kujundzic and his compatriots is a must-see for anybody visiting Gjakova. Comprising a boats a grand total of 144 well equipped rooms. Extras include
QOpen 07:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-18:00, Sun closed. and seriously damaging the building. In 1934 it was main prayer hall, ornate vestibule and minaret, the mosque is banqueting halls, swimming pool and a fitness centre.
restored and was turned into a mausoleum for the Serbian famous for its colourful interior and exterior. Inside find many
heroes who remain buried inside a stone sarcophagus in wooden elements, dizzying arabesque patterns and colourful
Hoça e Madhe (Velika Hoča) the main downstairs space. Renovated again in 2004, ask landscapes, whilst the front door is a blaze of flowers and The bridges of Gjakova county
Marked on recently-produced local maps as Hoça e Madhe nicely and the guide will slide of the top stone to reveal plants in blues, reds and yellows. Seriously damaged in 1999,
although perhaps better known as Velika Hoča, the small the bones of the three martyrs inside. restoration work began in 2003, was almost complete at the Tailors’ Bridge (Ura e Terzive)
Serbian enclave just south of Rahovec has been an important time of writing in early 2010. On the outskirts of Gjakova close to the small Catholic-
community for the Serbian Orthodox Church and the famed populated village of Bishtazhin is the Ura e Terzive
local wine producers of the region for over 800 years. (Tailors’ Bridge), a fine example of Ottoman stone
Boasting a dozen or so Orthodox churches dating from the Food & Lodging bridge architecture dating from 1750 and named so
12th to the 18th century, the village is worth a visit not just Çarshia e Jupave Rr. Ismail Qemaili 9, tel. +377 44 12 as it’s believed it was paid for by local tailors. Once the
for its religious architectural heritage but also for two recently 91 59, info@qarshiaejupave.com, www.qarshiaejupave. longest bridge in Kosovo, the structure is closed to road
buildings, one with an emotive past and the other looking com. A combined, restaurant, café and hotel, Çarshia e traffic but is clearly visible from the modern bridge that
very much to the future. It should be noted that visiting both Jupave is the result of an extraordinary renovation process runs alongside.
places mentioned here remains tricky. At the time of writing, that’s managed to preserve the best aspects of traditional
readers interested in getting inside either of the buildings local kulla and citizen architecture, whilst offering a modern Sacred Bridge (Ura e Shenjtë)
should contact the CHwB office in Prizren or Pristina. twist. Above the café, the restaurant is the height of business Close to the settlement of Gexhë on the main road from
chic, and serves a vast menu of traditional dishes and steaks Prizren to Gjakova is a rather nondescript bridge, Ura e
Gospodarska Kuća-Saraj that you cook yourself on a hot stone. The hotel section is Shenjtë (Sacred Bridge), crossing the Drin i Bardhë river
Built some time around the turn of the 20th century, this just as grand, offering quality rooms and suites with cable TV with a particularly charming if not slightly bizarre story.
fine edifice represents a beautiful example of vernacular and wifi for bargain prices. Qdoubles €30-100. According to legend, three brothers set to work building
architecture in the region. Originally used along the lines of a the structure but were thwarted at every turn. A sacrifice
country retreat and essentially a smaller version of a citizen needed to be made to appease the gods, and one of the
house, it was completely renovated to its former glory in 2006 brothers’ wives was interred in the masonry with a hole
and now operates as a focal point for the community. Inside left open in order to keep breastfeeding her infant. The
on the ground floor is an exhibition of paintings by locals bridge, which is at the southern end of a splendid gorge,
and visiting artists, some of them extremely well executed is a hugely popular place during the summer when people
and worth the journey in themselves. Upstairs are an office, come to camp, party, and jump off the bridge.
meeting space and small internet room which has to date
successfully been used both for training purposes as well as Ura e Shenjtë Restaurant & Motel
a way of the local youths finding sweethearts in other parts of Good food and a great terrace near the Sacred Bridge.
Kosovo. Essentially a community-arts centre housed inside a There are also two cottages alongside that can be rented
remarkable building, the centre functions both as a focal point complete with living room, two bedrooms, kitchen and
for the local community as well as for the promotion of social bathroom. QOpen 08:00 - 24.00. Cottages €30.
activities with people from further afield. Close to the entrance Tour de Culture (p.11) at the Gospodarska Kuća-Saraj Gjakova’s renovated old bazaar

Prizren In Your Pocket prizren.inyourpocket.com prizren.inyourpocket.com 2010 - 2011

30 BreZoViCa BreZoViCa 31

Brezovica is unquestionably one of the most promising

ski resorts in the Balkans, but years of neglect due to Where to stay Skiing in Brezovica
Kosovo’s disputed status and interethnic tensions have All these hotels promise 24-hour electricity and hot water.
thwarted all attempts to realise its great potential. Only Breakfast is included in the price unless noted. At weekends, two long chair-lifts and one T-bar are usually
three of its nine ski lifts work, and that’s on a good day, operational, with one of the two chairlifts mostly closed on
many of the hotels have not seen a cent of invest- Molika Tel. +381 29 07 03 33/+381 17 41 09 46. weekdays. It is not unheard of for the employees not to
ment in the past 20 years, and at weekends the roads This hulking great monstrosity screams ‘communism’ from start the lifts at all during the week if there is not enough
and pistes are jam-packed with buses of children and all angles, and even its surprisingly friendly staff admit that demand. A day pass will set you back €12, a two-day pass
unprepared townies. But these gripes aside, Brezovica this Yugoslav-era hotel hasn’t seen a proper lick off paint €20, a week pass €60 and a season pass €250. Passes
remains a superb place to ski, especially if you are able since it was built in the 1980s. The rooms are run down, with can be purchased at the ticket centre under the Molika hotel
to visit on a weekday, and provides ideal hiking ground worn carpets, shabby furniture and unappealing bathrooms, or from the lift attendants.
in the spring, summer and autumn. but are clean, warm and cheap. Right next to the ski lifts, The main descents take you down from a height of 2,500
Brezovica is 45km east of Prizren and 70km south of but certainly not the best place in town. The 300-capacity or 2,200 metres to the main centre at 1,800 on a mix of
Pristina, in the southern Sharr mountains which border restaurant serves up traditional fare and there’s Brezovica’s red, black and blues pistes, which do not meet Alpine stan-
Macedonia. Its heyday was the 1980s, when it became only nightclub which is hardly the stuff of dreams but can be dards in terms of maintenance but are nonetheless pretty
the favoured skiing destination for the Yugoslav elite, lively on busy weekends. Q 100 three-bedded rooms (singles well-kept. These are not slopes for beginners, but the width
hosting 120,000 overnight stays a year. In 1984, €35, doubles €75, triples €54). K of the runs and variety in terrain mean that intermediate
it was an alternative venue for the Sarajevo Winter skiers can plot a route down even on the black sections.
Olympics and the slopes have been officially registered Mountain Motel Tel. +381 638 16 52 56/+381 638 The views on the way down are superb, taking in the deep
by the Federation Internationale de Ski (FIS). The nine 57 68 41. The best budget option in the resort offers small, river valley and the series of snowy peaks which make up
ski lifts were built in the 1980s by German and Swiss modern, clean rooms and suites equipped with a kitchen. The ski lift at Brezovica Shannon Rice Kosovo’s mountain ranges.
contractors but have received little investment since The restaurant is one of the best in Brezovica, serving up Experienced skiers rave about the quality of the slopes and
then, resulting in regular breakdowns. The actual typical, hearty mountain fare from the Štrpce region, strong Pizzeria Tina Tel. +381 63 61 39 86, igor_nikolcevic@ snow, and there is good off-piste action to be had. It must,
village of Brezovica is at 900 metres above sea level local brandy and some of the best vistas in the resort. Don’t yagoo.com. A Brezovica institution, combining great food however, be noted that the parts of the Sharr mountains
and is a 10-minute, steep drive to the ski centre at be put off by the owner’s curmudgeonly demeanour - Ivan is and extremely friendly staff. It offers a very wide selection are mined, that avalanches are not uncommon and that
1,800 metres. The settlement is mostly made up of a very affable and helpful chap. Find it just beyond the chair of dough-based delicacies, with just about every imaginable search-and-rescue and first aid facilities are very limited. If
holiday chalets, once owned by the Yugoslav elite and lifts. Q 9 rooms (6 doubles €20, 3 suites). K topping, and excellent salads. Soak up the sun at its pleas- you want to go off-piste, it’s recommended that you take a
more recently bought up by wealthy Kosovo Albanian ant outdoor area, which is usually buzzing on sunny days. guide with you. The only option for beginners is a blue slope
businessmen and politicians. Woodlands Hotel Tel. +377 44 44 44 48/+386 49 It’s just a shame that the view is the concrete base of a ski with a T-bar lift, which is often too crowded at weekends
44 44 48, info@woodlandhotel-ks.com, www.wood- lift. The pizzeria is a great source of information and help to for true novices to take lessons. A snow park opened this
landhotel-ks.com. The new Woodlands Hotel is by far the find flats or houses to rent in Brezovica. Signposted from the year with a range of ramps and pipes for snowboarders and
Transport & Orientation most comfortable and stylish option, although the prices main road, up a steep and often treacherously slippery path. skiers to enjoy, and a yearly extreme sports’ event, including
Brezovica is a 70km, 90-minute drive from Pristina and are relatively steep. All rooms include modern bathrooms, QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. BW DJs and concerts, called Snowpark (www.snowpark-ks.com)
a 45km, 40-minute drive from Prizren, and is signposted flatscreen televisions and comfortable beds; apartments was held for the first time in March.
from the Prizren-Štrpce road. In winter, snow chains are have a jacuzzi and sleep up to four people. The hotel is just Brezovica’s promoters often boasts of having good snow
recommended for the steep final 8km. Travel agencies in a few paces from the slopes. Your bags are delivered to the Bars conditions for an average of 130 days a year, with the
Pristina and other cities arrange tour buses to the slopes rooms by snowmobile. The restaurant has more of the trendy Fox Pub Tel. +377 44 98 08 36/+377 44 38 11 season spanning from November to May, but based on
in winter. urban feel than rustic mountain lodge and serves Balkan 11. This venue is by far the coolest place to hang out in conditions in recent years, this is a tad optimistic. The
Brezovica has no street names or landmarks, but the main specialities as well some international dishes, a rarity in this Brezovica. With a selection of card games, Connect 4, 2009/10 season was, by all accounts, one of the worst
ski centre is beside the huge Hotel Molika. On foot, following part of Kosovo. Q 21 rooms (12 doubles €70, 3 triples €90, snacks, decent cocktails and even a pet iguana, there’s in decades, as the snow arrived in late December and
signs to Pizzeria Tina will lead you steep up to a wooden 4 quads €120, 2 apartments €150). KW not much missing for après-ski fun. At the weekend it gets the spring thaw arrived in late March. In between, skiers
map of Brezovica and a clutch of bars, restaurants and the smoky and packed, as the young and cool listen to DJs or often had to brave foggy conditions and strong winds.
Woodlands Hotel. warble out karaoke numbers. It also serves the best mac- Brezovica suffers from frequent power cuts, but the lifts
Where to eat chiato in town. Next to Pizzeria Tina. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. have a generator back-up, meaning that you will not be
Apart from at these places, eating out is also possible W stranded for long if the electricity cuts out. January tends
at the Woodlands and Molika hotels, while Molika has to be the busiest time, when the slopes are full of school
Hiking the high peaks the resort’s only club. children. March offers the best skiing, combining warmer,
Ski rental & Schools sunny days and good snow. Be warned, weekends can be
Brezovica could be a hikers’ paradise, but poor infra- David’s Pub Tel. +381 631 81 85 88/+377 44 49 21 64, You’ll find a number of shacks dotted around Brezovica absurdly busy, with often poorly skilled skiers showing
structure and a lack of information once again don’t www.brezovicaskiresort.com. This homely log cabin serves hawking ski equipment and some unsavioury looking little regard to safety, kamikaze sledgers hogging the baby
make it easy to enjoy this beautiful area on foot. Most up excellent grilled meat, huge cold platters and has a central log chaps offering ski lessons. To be safe, it’s best to book slope and women in high-heels mingling, fag in hand, by the
of the facilities by the ski lifts close down for the summer fire which is perfect for warming those icy fingers. Being the first through your hotel or visit these two well-respected out- chair lifts. These factors may not aid skiing, but certainly
months, although the Woodlands Hotel plans to open all house in the ski resort, the beleaguered staff is regularly called lets. Renting a full skiing set for the day sets you back make Brezovica a great place to soak up the atmosphere,
year round, and Dane Rent and Service offers mountain upon to rescue ill-prepared city drivers with the last stretch of the €10. grab a bite to eat or party the night away.
biking and guided tours outside the ski season. There steep road - and they do so with a smile. It’s a pleasant place Decent skiing equipment can be rented cheaply from two
are no easily obtainable maps – a pre-war walking guide for a glass of the local brandy, Serbian beer and a chat with the Dane Rent & Service , tel. +381 631 81 85 88/+377 shops, Dane and Ski-servis Borzani, where enough English is
does exist but has virtually disappeared from circulation. knowledgeable owners. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. 44 49 21 64, www.brezovicaskiresort.com. An excellent spoken to ensure you get the right boot size. Both shops also
If you’re looking for an unguided stress free stroll, use selection of well maintained skis and snowboards, as well as offer lessons, although it is advisable to book ahead.
the ski slopes as paths. You can make a long circular mountain bikes for the summer. The only downside is that it’s Ski information
walk taking one of the main pistes up and the other main not directly on the slopes, so you have to lug your gear up To find out if the lifts are working, it’s often best to call one
slope down. It’s worth keeping an eye on organised hikes the hill first. Dane also provides ski lessons and hiking tours of the hotels or restaurants in the morning. Also check the
by Arben Islami, known in the summer as Hiking Njeri, on in the summer; phone well in advance for these. In the same following websites:
the www.njeri.com/hiking website, although the text is building as Dave’s Pub. QOpen 08:00 to 18:00. Brezovica Ski www.brezovica-ski.com/en; events and a
in Albanian. Contact Arben through the Facebook group useful but imprecise section on the operation of ski lifts
Hiking Njeri, which has information in English. Landmines Ski Servis Borzani Molika hotel, tel. +381 63 37 37 and snow conditions.
remain a problem in the Sharr mountains, so do not stray 92/+381 63 27 72 72, borzanigroup@yahoo.com. Just Serbian ski forum www.skijanje.rs/forum
off paths, do not enter fenced-off areas and keep your metres from the ski lifts, Borzani is the most convenient Snow Njeri www.njeri.net/snow; news, photos and an
eyes peeled for signs. As ever, it’s more prudent to take place to pick up equipment and to ask about recommended Albanian forum.
a guide with you. ski instructors. Arrive early for the best choice of boot sizes. Webcam www.ipko.net/ipko_portal
Off-piste skiing Shannon Rice QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.

Prizren In Your Pocket prizren.inyourpocket.com prizren.inyourpocket.com 2010 - 2011

32 getting aroUnd getting aroUnd 33

Prizren’s city centre is small enough to get around on foot,

but if you’re heading to the outskirts or out of town you’ll Public transport Bus schedule
need a car, taxi or bus. Prizren’s sights are all within comfortable walking distance
of each other, and there’s little need to use the local From Prizren To Prizren
buses, which connect the hospital with the bus station
Airports and the suburbs. Prizren currently has three bus lines, with
Days Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr. Duration Ticket Company
Pristina’s small international airport (PRN, Aeroporti services every hour between 06:00 and 19:40. Tickets 12345-7 09:00 17:30 BELGRADE* 12:00 19:30 8,5hrs €18 Adio Tours
Ndërkombëtar i Prishtinës, www.airportpristina.com, cost a flat €0,30 and can be bought on board. The three BELGRADE* Adio Tours
flight information tel. +381 38 595 81 23) is 15km west of bus lines lines are: 1234567 21:30 05:30 21:30 06:00 8,5hrs €18
Pristina on the road towards Peja. The fastest connection 1234567 08:00 09:00 DRAGASH* 07.00 08.00 1hr €2
to and from Prizren is via Pristina’s ring road or bus station. Line 1 Arbana (northwest) via the bus station to the
Taxis (€15-25) connect the airport to the capital city, for a hospital (south); 1234567 07:00 10:00 DURRES 18:00 21:00 3hrs €15 Bashkimi Reisen,
taxi directly to Prizren see Arriving in Prizren (p.5) for rec- Line 2 Petrova (northeast) via the bus station to the Zhur Tours, Halimaj
ommended companies. Various European airlines serve hospital (south); Reisen etc.
Pristina. When departing from Kosovo, it’s a good idea to Line 3 Dardani (Jaglenica, northeast) via the bus station 1234567 05:30 07:00 FERIZAJ/ 12.30 14.00 1,5hrs €4 Vector
confirm departure times in advance. to the hospital (south). UROŠEVAC
1234567 13:15 14:45 FERIZAJ/ 09:15 10:45 1,5hrs €4 Merkatori
Taxis Long-distance buses UROŠEVAC
Taxi fares are low in Prizren, starting at €1,50 (€2 after A number of travel agencies run buses to destinations 1234567 Every hour GJAKOVA/ Every hour 1hr €2 Kushtrimi-NM;
22:00) plus €0.60 per kilometre. To ensure a fair fare, in Kosovo, the surrounding countries and more distant from 06:30- ĐAKOVICA from 06:30- Kasumi Tours;
order a taxi in advance from one of the local companies emigrant destinations. Buses generally are well-kept, 18:30 18:30 Zhur Reisen etc.
listed here. air-conditioned and relatively cheap to use. Prizren’s bus
station is the node for nearly all buses, and is situated just a 1234567 13:15 16:00 GJILAN/ 08:00 10:45 €5 Merkatori
Radio Taxi Blue Tel. +386 49 55 52 52. few minutes walk west of the city centre on Rruga De Rada. GNJILANE
Radio Taxi Fortuna Tel. +377 44 38 00 00. The bus station has limited services; a bus information ki- 1234567 13:00 06:00 ISTANBUL 17.00 11.00 18hrs €40 Alpar Turizm
Radio Taxi OK Tel. +386 49 33 35 00. osk (tel. +377 44 67 91 60, open 08:00-16:00, closed Sat,
1234567 Every MAMUSHA/ Every 1-2 <1hr €1,50 Mamusha Trans;
Radio Taxi Prizreni Tel. +377 44 27 98 88. Sun) and a few kiosks selling snacks. There is no luggage
1-2 hours MAMUŠA hours Drini Reisen
office. Tickets can be bought on the bus, or in advance from
between between
the relevant bus company office at the bus station (for Vec-
Car rental tor see Travel agents). The Prizren In Your Pocket bus
07:00 and
19:25
06:00 and
17:00
All car rental agents are concentrated in Pristina, and timetable lists all major domestic and international buses
those looking to hire some wheels will need to pick the car that arrive and depart. Only some village minibus services 1234567 17:00 21.00 NOVI 06.00 10.00 4hrs €10 Benko Tours
up there, or enquire about delivery to Prizren. Below are depart from elsewhere in Prizren, as noted in the timetable. PAZAR
the main rental agents in Pristina. 1234567 At 06:50, PEJA/PEĆ At 06.40; 2,5hrs €4 Halimaj Reisen,
Adio Tours A-1, Rr. De Rada, tel. +381 29 23 26 69. 09:40, 10:45, 09.45; 10.30; Monika
Europcar Tel. +381 38 54 14 01, info@europcar- Also in Pristina (tel. +381 38 22 66 43) and Belgrade (+381 13:40, 14:40 13.15; 14.45;
ks.com, www.europcar-ks.com. 11 328 87 07). and 17:40 17.15
Hertz Tel. +381 38 54 44 80, hertz_b1@yahoo.com, Alpar Turizm A-1, Rr. De Rada (bus station), tel. +381
www.hertz.com. 29 22 22 09, goldtours2@hotmail.com, www.goldtours- 1234567 Every 30mins PRISHTINA/ Every 30mins 2hrs €4 Bashkimi
MCM Tel. +381 38 24 00 24, info@mcmrent.com, www. ks.com. QOpen 08.00 - 20.00. from 05:30- PRIŠTINA from 06:00- Reisen, Zhur
mcmrent.com. Bashkimi Reisen A-1, Rr. De Rada (bus station), tel. 18:00 19:45 Tours, Halimaj
Shotani Tel. +381 38 54 42 24, contact@rentacarsho- +377 44 11 15 24. QOpen 08.00 - 20.00. Reisen,
tani.com, www.rentacarshotani.com. Halimaj Reisen A-1, Rr. De Rada (bus station), tel. Shpejtimi etc.
+377 44 15 22 63. QOpen 08.00 - 20.00. 1234567 Departs when full, RECANA# Departs when full, <1hr €0,50 Zhupa Trans, Gimi
Kushtrimi-NM Gjakova, tel. +377 44 15 63 32, between 06:00 and between 06:00 and Reisen
kushtrimi-nm@hotmail.com. 18:00 19:30
Merkatori Gjilan, tel. +377 44 15 41 00, merkatri@
hotmail.com, www.merkatori.com. 12345-- 05:30 09:00 SKOPJE/ 11:30 15:00 3,5hrs €9 Vector
Metropol A-1, Rr. De Rada, tel. +377 44 61 48 14/+377 SHKUP##
44 68 38 78. 1234567 09:00 12:00 SKOPJE/ 16:00 19:00 3,5hrs €9 Vector
Shpejtimi A-1, Rr. De Rada (bus station), tel. +381 29 SHKUP##
27 16 42, shpejtimi-thr@hotmail.com, www.shpejtimi.
1234567 13.00 01.00 SOFIA 23.00 11.00 12hrs € 35 Alpar Turizm
net. QOpen 08.00 - 20.00.
Zhur Tours A-1, Rr. De Rada (bus station), tel. +377 1234567 06:30 10:00 TIRANA 06.30### 10:00 3hrs €10 Metropol
44 12 65 27. QOpen 08.00 - 20.00. 1234567 16:30 19:30 TIRANA 15:00 18:00 3hrs €10 Metropol
1234567 07:00 10:00 TIRANA*) 20:00 23:00 3hrs €10 Bashkimi Reisen
Driving & Parking 1234567 08:00 16:30 ULCINJ/ULQIN 07:00 15:30 8,5hrs €20 Vector
With all sights within walking distance of the main square, 1234567 20:00 05:00 ULCINJ/ULQIN 19:00 05:00 8,5hrs €20 Vector
and a warren of narrow, winding streets, Prizren’s centre Schedule correct at time of publishing. Ticket prices are one-way; return fares may be relatively cheaper. Times and prices
is decidedly and deliciously car-unfriendly. It’s best to walk, may change, so confirm before departure.
leaving your car at the guarded parking by the Alhambra * Travels from Dragash via Prizren, Gracanica, Pristina, Mitrovica, Kralevo, Cacak to Belgrade, and back. ** Minibuses
restaurant and by the Oltas Pension. Driving in Kosovo depart from outside the bus station. *** Summer only.
is the best way to get around. Roads and signposting # Minibuses depart when full, approximately every hour, from the Marash district bridge. The bus continues to
is generally good, though always be aware of possible Mushnikova. ## Outbound buses stop at Skopje’s bus station and continue to Skopje airport on request. ### The
potholes, wandering livestock and mad drivers overtaking 06:30 bus from Tirana to Prizren departs on odd days only.
in impossible places. *) Enquire in advance.
Oldtimers Fest on Shadërvan Square

Prizren In Your Pocket prizren.inyourpocket.com prizren.inyourpocket.com 2010 - 2011

34 getting aroUnd sHoPPing 35

Prizren’s modest shopping scene has changed in recent

Bus routes to Albania Mail & Phones years, and although the variety does not match Pristina by far,
you can find most of what you need now, plus a few surprises.
The new highway leading from Prizren to the Albanian Internet access Textile, shoes, jewellery and furniture are mainly imported
coast has dramatically cut travel times and makes several Internet is a recent arrival in Kosovo, and several businesses from Turkey. Gold and silver articles are also made locally by
interesting travel routes possible. Regular, fast buses now in and around Prizren now have websites. Free wifi access skilled craftsmen and are a Prizren speciality (see also the
ply the Prizren-Tirana route daily. for guests/clients is available at a number of places in the Filigran feature), as are items like Prizren cloth, knives, embroi-
An alternative and more adventurous route leads from city centre, including Barcode, Café Haus and Shadow, and dery and other folk handcrafts. Note that credit cards are not
Gjakova, near Prizren, to Shkodra in Northern Albania, at the Centrum, Residence, Oltas and Alvida hotels. widely accepted yet - bring cash on your shopping spree.
using the magnificent Lake Koman ferry ride, which is
possibly the most scenic ferry ride in southern Europe. The
car ferry sails from Fierza in the east to Koman and back Mobile phones Books
every morning, passing magnificent mountain landscapes Kosovo’s mobile phone operators use a variety of in- Headway D-3, Rr. Saraçët, tel. +386 49 13 96 14. The Traditional embroidery at Kosovsko Kolo
and towering rock walls. The ferry has a café, but the best ternational prefixes, so take care when you call a local town’s best bookshop has a limited selection of English
views are from the top deck; dress warm as it can be very mobile phone. The Vala 900 mobile phone network, classics. Opposite the Halveti tekke. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
cold at any time of year. run by PTK (www.ptkonline.com), uses Monaco’s inter- Closed Sun. Markets
A minibus departs daily at 05:00 from Gjakova bus sta- national code, +377 44, while the independent operator Green market (Tregu i Gjelbërt) B-1, Rr. Joni. Prizren’s
tion, reaching Lake Koman around 06:30, in time for the IPKO (www.ipko.com) uses Slovenia’s code, +386 49. daily market with fresh fruit and vegetables. QOpen 09:00
07:00 two-hour ferry sailing. The minibus then continues to Two new virtual operator offer cheaper rates, with D3 Computers & Office supplies - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.
Shkodra, arriving at about 10:30. Travelling east, a minibus Mobile (www.d3-mobile.com) using +386 43 and Z- Cleon C-4, Rr. Ismet Jashari Kumanova. Well-stocked PC
leaves Shkodra at 07:00 daily, boarding the ferry at 11:00, Mobile (www.zmobileonline.com) using prefix +377 45. and office supply shop. Also sells funky KFOR parking signs.
and continuing after the two-hour trip to Bajram Curri (ar- Buying a local prepaid SIM card is cheap and easy, no ID QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Music
rival 13:00, there’s a connecting minibus to Valbona) and is required. New SIM cards cost around €5 and can be Intersoft Computers C-3, Rr. Shuaip Spahiu, tel./fax Atrium Music Center E-2, Sheshi i Lidhjes Shqiptare të
Gjakova (arriving at 14:00). Tickets cost €10 from Gjakova used immediately. Top-up vouchers are widely available +381 29 22 51 18, info@infersoft-a.com, www.intersoft- Prizrenit. A small music shop stocking a limited but recom-
to Shkodra, or €3 to Lake Koman (to change for a minibus at kiosks and shops and come in various values. a.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. mended selection of both traditional instruments as well as
heading to Tirana). You can also get off earlier and hitch to Media Market C-3, Rr. Shuaip Spahiu, tel. +377 44 CDs of the many kinds of infectious music you’ll hear during
Bajram Curri to visit the alpine Valbona valley; minibuses to
Valbona depart daily in the early afternoon. To enquire about
Post 21 62 09, shahin.skeja@arthousepr.com. QOpen 09:00 your stay in the region. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
The mail in Kosovo is run by the PTK (www.postaekos- - 19:00. Closed Sun. A
seat reservations, ask an Albanian-speaker to call Mr. Rexha
of Miroci Reisen at +377 44 16 51 27.
oves.net). Their post offices handle mail, parcels, EMS
Photography
parcel service, and telephone calls to national and
international numbers.
Fashion & Shoes Foto Agroni A-2, Rr. De Rada, tel. +381 29 224
Clothes, shoes and accessories boutiques can be found 61/+377 44 91 78 42, fotoagroni@hotmail.com, www.
Trains around Shadërvan square and along Rruga Adem Jashari. fotoagroni.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Although there is a railway connecting Prizren to the func- Telephones Foto Artan & Tarkan D-3, Rr. Farkatarët, tel. +377 44
tioning Pristina-Peja line, it’s unfortunately no longer used PTK (www.ptkonline.com) is responsible for Kosovo’s Adidas D-3, Sheshi Shadërvan, tel. +386 43 72 50 84. 13 49 04. QOpen 09.00 - 18.00. Closed Sun.
for passenger services. There are plans to reinstate the fixed-line telephone connections. To phone to a Prizren Official Adidas store, with original clothes and shoes. QOpen Foto Sharri D-3, Sheshi Shadërvan 35, tel. +386 49
line, but the money is currently lacking. Kosovo’s railway land line from abroad, dial +381 for Kosovo, 29 (for Priz- 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:30 - 15:30. A 11 90 35, vetonn@yahoo.com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
hub at Fushë Kosovë, a few kilometres west of Pristina, ren) and the six-digit subscriber number. To dial abroad Burda D-3, Sheshi i Dëshmorëve, tel. +381 29 23 12 Closed Sun.
has services to Peja and Skopje. See the Pristina In Your from Prizren, dial 00 followed by the country code and 61. Fashion for men and women. QOpen 08.00 - 20.00.
Pocket city guide at www.pristina.inyourpocket.com for subscriber number. Closed Sun.
more details. Card-operated public telephones can be found around Cool D-3, Sheshi Shadërvan, tel. +377 44 20 44 53. Shopping centres
town. Phone cards come in values from €3,50 upwards QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. On the outskirts of town, a 20-25 minute walk from the city
and can be bought from post offices and kiosks; user J&C Art D-3, Rr. Vatrat Shqiptare, tel. +381 29 22 57 centre, the shopping centres offer Prizren’s most modern
Travel agents instructions are written in English. 94. Original Levis denim products. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. retail experience, most of them with good supermarkets
Adriatik Sheshi i Lidhjes Shqiptare të Prizrenit, tel. Closed Sun. A and several accepting credit cards. They have children’s
+377 44 30 52 57. Little Big D-3, Rr. Vatrat Shqiptare, tel. +381 29 22 50 playgrounds, restaurants and cafés, and are a popular
Gold Tours Rr. Remzi Ademi 31, tel. +377 44 14 83 Postal rates 33. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A place for families on weekends.
21/+381 29 22 22 09 (bus station), goldtours2@ United Colours of Benetton D-3, Rr. Remzi Ademi.
hotmail.com. <20g Packages 0.5-1kg An outlet store of the famous Italian fashion label. QOpen Abi Center I-3, Rr. Bill Clinton, tel. +381 29 24 22
Vector Rr. Remzi Ademaj, tel. +381 29 24 26 91/+381 Kosovo €0,20 €1,40 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A 82, info@abi-center.com, www.abi-center.com. A large
29 24 45 37, vector_ak@hotmail.com, www.vector- modern shopping complex, with a supermarket and a good
Region €0,70 €8,70
travelclub.com. QOpen 08.00 - 18.00. toy shop. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. A
Europe €0,70 €10,70 Gifts & Souvenirs Bekteshi D-1/2, Rr. Fehmi Lladrovci. The best city-centre
Asia/Africa €1,70 €14,70 It’s easy to find souvenirs in the city centre: jewellery, supermarket.
handmade carpets, traditional scarves, locally painted Ben-af A-1, Rr. Joni, tel. +381 29 24 22 31. QOpen
Other €2,20 €19 scenes of Prizren, and more. 08:00 - 23:00. A
Elkos I-4, Rr. William Walker, tel. +381 29 22 39 44.
Arta C-3, Rr. Remzi Ademi, tel. +377 44 23 07 58. Tra- QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. A
City codes ditional handmade clothes, carpets and other items. QOpen Viva Fresh Rr. Besim Shala, tel. +377 44 29 93 12.
When calling from abroad or roaming, prefix with +381 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. A
and drop any first zero. Kosovsko Kolo C-3, Rr. Sahat Kulla, tel. +377 44 75 83
58/+386 49 33 69 13. Ethnic harmony in practice, this small
Gjakova 390 Bosnian-run tailors shop makes traditional festive traditional Sports
Gjilan 280 costumes, including wedding attire and circumcision ritual clothes, Alpina D-3, Rr. Remzi Ademi, tel. +377 44 11 33 77.
Ferizaj 029 for all Prizrenites, whether Serb, Albanian, Turkish or Bosnian. Outdoor fashion, hiking boots and shoes. QOpen 09:00 -
Mitrovica 028 Souvenir-hunters can find the Albanian plis eggshell-hat on sale 19:00. Closed Sun. A
Peja 039 here for €4. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sporting D-3, Sheshi i Dëshmorëve, tel. +381 29 22 23
Pristina 038 Souvenir Shop C-3, Rr. Shuaip Spahiu, tel. +377 44 17 61, sporting_pz@hotmail.com, www.sportingks.com.
Prizren 029 34 11. Imported Asian gifts, interior design accessories, jew- Hiking boots, trainers, sports equipment QOpen 09:00
Regional crafts for sale at a fair ellery, bags and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. - 19:00. Closed Sun. A

Prizren In Your Pocket prizren.inyourpocket.com prizren.inyourpocket.com 2010 - 2011

36 direCtory direCtory 37

Banks Emergencies Opticians

Banks are generally open from 09:00-17:00 on weekdays, Optika Jaki Rr. Ismet Jashari Kumanova 52, tel. +386
with some opening earlier or closing later. Police, ambulance, fire tel. 911 49 18 50 77. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 14:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sun.
Banka Ekonomike Rr. Shuaip Spahiu, tel. +381 29 24
22 34, www.bekonomike.com. France Rr. Ismail Qemali 67, Pristina, tel. +381 38 22
Banka Kombëtare Tregtare Sheshi Shadërvan, tel. 45 88 00, pristina-amba@diplomatie.gouv.fr. Pharmacies
+381 29 22 39 10, www.bkt.com.al. Germany Rr. Azem Jashanica 17, Pristina, tel. +381 Prizren’s pharmacies are reasonably well-equipped, selling
Banka për Biznes (BpB) Rr. Remzi Ademi, tel. +381 38 25 45 00, info@pris.auswaertiges-amt.de, www. a wide range over over-the-counter medicines.
29 24 26 00, www.bpb-bank.com. pristina.diplo.de.
NLB Prishtina Sheshi i Lidhjes Shqiptare të Prizrenit, Italy Rr. Azem Jashanica 5, Pristina, tel. +381 38 24 49 Adnan Rr. Remzi Ademi 87, tel. +377 44 50 29 10,
tel. +381 29 63 16 49, www.nlbprishtina-kos.com. 25, segreteria.pristina@esteri.it. ph.amar@live.com. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00
ProCredit Bank Rr. Zahir Pajaziti, tel. +381 29 24 31 Japan Rr. Rexhep Mala 43, Pristina, tel. +381 38 24 99 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
49, www.procreditbank-kos.com. 95, jplopr@yahoo.com. Centrum D-3, Rr. Saraçët, tel. +377 44 14 11 33.
Raiffeisen Bank Rr. Nëna Terezë 7, tel. +381 38 22 22 Macedonia Rr. 24 Maji, Pristina, tel. +381 38 24 74 QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
22, www.raiffeisen-kosovo.com. 62, macedonialiaison@mail.net.mk, www.mfa.gov.mk. Remedia D-3, Rr. Remzi Ademi. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00,
TEB Bank Rr. Suzi Çelebi 41, tel. +381 29 23 22 23, Netherlands Rr. Ekrem Rexha 17, Pristina, tel. +381 Sun 09:00 - 15:00.
www.teb-kos.com. 38 22 46 10, nl_kosovo@yahoo.com.
Norway Rr. Fidanishte, Pristina, tel. +381 38 22 40
59, skv@mfa.no. Swimming pools
Dentists Slovenia Rr. Anton Ceta 6, Pristina, tel. +381 38 24 With the sea several hours away, join the locals on hot
Dr. Gezim Gashi Rr. Jusuf Gërvalla (Qendra Tregtare 62 55, mpi@gov.si. summer days at one of these pools.
Ortakoll), tel. +377 44 13 99 20. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00; Sweden Rr. Ekrem Rexha 6, Pristina, tel. +381 38 24
16:00-19:00. Closed Sun. 57 95, swedishoffice.pristina@sida.se. OK pool Tel. +381 29 24 02 60, www.hotelok-ks.net.
EndoDont (Dr. Skender Shahini) Rr. Ismet Jashari Switzerland Rr. Adrian Krasniqi 11, Pristina, tel. +381 A pleasant indoor pool that available for non-guests too. Q
Kumanova, tel. +377 44 19 01 79. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00, 38 24 80 88, pri.vertretung@eda.admin.ch, www.eda. Admission €3-5, free for hotel guests.
13:00-16:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. admin.ch/pristina. Solid pool (Buqalla) Suhareka-Pristina road, km15,
Turkey Rr. İsmail Qemali 59, Pristina, tel. +381 38 22 tel. +377 44 11 33 93, www.solidshoes.com. Three pools
60 44, turkemb.prishtina@mfa.gov.tr, www.prishtina. beside a hotel in beautiful valley. Q Admission €1,5/1.
emb.mfa.gov.tr. Univers pool Vermicë, tel. +377 44 40 15 52, www.
Embassies United Kingdom Rr. Ismail Qemali 6, Pristina, tel. +381 The Stone Bridge with the fortress univers-ks.eu.tt. The best pool in the region is attached
Kosovo’s foreign representations are all to be found in 38 25 47 00, britishembassy.pristina@fco.gov.uk, www. to Hotel Univers near Lake Vermicë. A restaurant, café-bar,
Pristina. The most important ones are listed here, for ukinkosovo.fco.gov.uk. and shop are part of the complex. Q Admission €5, free for
the full overview see the listings in the Pristina In Your USA Rr. Nazim Hikmet 30, Pristina, tel. +381 38 59 59 International organisations hotel guests.
Pocket guide. Always call ahead to make an appointment 30 00, papristina@state.gov, http://pristina.usmis- Prizren’s Rotary Club meets every Monday (tel. +377 44
before visiting. sion.gov. 12 72 22, +377 44 11 30 57).
Translators & Interpretors
Albania Rr. Mujo Ulqinaku 18, Pristina, tel. +381 38 24 EULEX (European Union Rule of Law Mission) , tel. Erlind Kasemi Rr. Feim Ibrahimi, tel. +377 44 11 65
82 08, mission.kosova@mfa.gov.al. Fitness +386 43 78 20 00, www.eulex-kosovo.eu. 28, erlind_kasemi@hotmail.com. Translates to and from
Austria Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi 22, Pristina, tel. +381 38 Lifefitness Rr. Martin Camaj, tel. +377 44 83 30 61. ICO (International Civilian Organization) Rr. Ram- German, Italian, French, Slovenian, and Serbo-Croatian.
24 92 84, pristina-ob@bmeia.gv.at. Modern fitness centre for gym, aerobic and yoga. QOpen 08:00 buje, tel. +381 38 204 46 61, armend.hapciu@ico-kos. Inan Mahmuti Rr. Jusuf Gërvalla 92, tel. +386 49
Belgium Rr. e Zagrebit 19, Pristina, tel. +381 38 51 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. Membership €15 per month. org, www.ico-kos.org. 30 33 25, inanmahmuti@yahoo.com. Translates to and
76 98, office@bdb-pristina.org. OSCE Mission in Kosovo Rr. Besim Shala, tel. +381 from English.
Bulgaria Rr. Ismail Qemali 47, Pristina, tel. +381 38 29 24 01 00, www.osce.org/kosovo. Nikollë Markaj Rr. Sahat Kulla 16, tel. +377 44 12
51 76 99, dbpristina@abv.bg. Football UN-Habitat Rr. Remzi Ademi (town hall), w w w. 68 27, nikolle_markaj@hotmail.com. Translates to and
China Rr. Ismail Qemali 47, Pristina, tel. +381 38 24 One of Kosovo’s most popular sports is football, often unhabitat-kosovo.org. from English, Italian, French, German, Slovenian, Croatian
85 08, wang_wengang@mfa.gov.cn. played on small fields with small teams. and Swedish.
Croatia Rr. Mujo Ulqinaku 20, Pristina, tel. +381 38 22
39 78, croemb.pristina@mvpei.hr. Andra E-2, Rr. Enver Haradinaj, tel. +377 44 68 72 40. Key service
Czech Republic Rr. Ismail Qemali 31, Pristina, tel. Football fields by the Lumbardhi river. Call to book ahead. Along Rruga Sahat Kulla you’ll find a number of key shops
+381 38 22 39 79, pristina@embassy.mzv.cz. Q €12 per hour. run by the Perolli family, who have been practising the craft
Finland Rr. Perandori Justinian 19, Pristina, tel. +386 Mali Petrol Prizren-Pristina road, km.1, tel. +377 44 for generations.
43 73 70 00, sanomat.pri@formin.fi, www.finlandko- 94 40 67. Q €15 per hour.
sovo.org. Boni Keys Rr. Sahat Kulla, tel. +377 44 71 84 84.
QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Hairdressers
Erdo Rr. Remzi Ademi, tel. +377 44 14 00 13, erdow-
ella@yahoo.com. Prizren’s best ladies’ hairdresser. QOpen Officials
09.00 - 18.00. Closed Sun. IPM (Institution for the Protection of Monuments)
Frizzer Rojtore Berber D-2/3, Rr. Adem Jashari, tel. Rr. Marin Barleti, tel. +381 29 24 44 87. Locally known as
+377 44 26 58 91. Have a haircut with a view at this tiny the Instituti për Mrojtje të Monumenteve Prizren (IMMPz).
glass-walled shed plonked in a small park. Strapping Balkan QOpen 08:00 - 16.00. Closed Sat, Sun.
head and shoulder massages are performed too. QOpen KEK (Kosovo Energy Corporation) , tel. +381 29 22
08.00 - 20.00. Closed Sun. 20 21, www.kek-energy.com.
Municipal Court of Prizren A-3, Rr. William Walker.
Municipality of Prizren B-3, Rr. Remzi Ademi, tel.
Health +381 29 23 08 46, info@prizreni-gov.org, www.komuna-
Regional Hospital of Prizren (Spitali i Reg jional i prizreni.org. The mayor is Mr. Ramadan Muja. QOpen 08:00
The millstream in Marashi Park Prizrenit) I-5, tel. +381 29 22 22 22. - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A shoeshiner’s case awaits customers

Prizren In Your Pocket prizren.inyourpocket.com prizren.inyourpocket.com 2010 - 2011

42 Index
Abi Center 35 Centrum 37 Fox Pub 31 M-Pub 15 Regional Hospital
Adidas 35 Change 15 France 36 Macedonia 36 of Prizren 36
Adio Tours 32 China 36 Frizzer Rojtore Mali Petrol 36 Remedia 37
Adnan 37 Church of Our Lady Berber 36 Marash district 21 Residence Vermica 12
Albania 36 of Ljeviš 17 Furra Lumbardhi 14 Marashi Park 20 Rufa'i Tekke 18
Alhambra 13 City Hall 20 Gani Dukag jini's Media Market 35 Sarajeva 14
Alpar Turizm 32 City park 20 House 20 Mena 12 Saraçhane Tekke 19
Alpina 35 Cleon 35 Gazi Mehmet Merkatori 32 Scobar 15
Alvida 12 Cool 35 Pasha's Mosque 16 Metropol 32 Shadow 15
Ambient 13 Croatia 36 Gazi Mehmet Molika 30 Sheh Hasan's
Andra 36 Cultural Heritage Pasha Hamam 10, 20 Mountain Motel 30 House 20
Arasta 13 without Borders 19 Germany 36 Mullini Café 15 Shëndeti 14
Arasta Minaret 16 Czech Republic 36 Green market 35 Mullini i Pintollit 14 Shpejtimi 32
Archaeological Dane Rent & Hadum Mosque 29 Municipal Court of Sinan Pasha
Museum 19 Service 31 Halimaj Reisen 32 Prizren 37 Mosque 17
Arta 35 David's Pub 30 Hani i Haraqisë 29 Municipality of Ski Servis Borzani 31
Arxhena 27 Directorate Hasi Jehon 11 Prizren 37 Slovenia 36
Atrium Music for Economic Headway 35 Music High School 10 Solid pool 37
Center 35 Development and Horse cart rides 21 Mustafa (Pomaku) Souvenir Shop 35
Aurora 14 Tourism 19 ICO 37 House 20 Sporting 35
Austria 36 Dr. Gezim Gashi 36 Inan Mahmuti 37 Myderiz Ali Efendi Suzi Çelebi
Boni Keys 37 Ego 13 Institution for Mosque 16 Mosque 17
Bananasplit Plus 14 Ekspo-Arti 11 the Protection of NATO Monument 21 Sweden 36
Banka Ekonomike 36 Elkos 35 Monuments 19 Netherlands 36 Switzerland 36
Banka Kombëtare Ëmbëltorja e Intersoft Nikollë Markaj 37 Tabakhane Mill 21
Tregtare 36 qytetit 14 Computers 35 NLB Prishtina 36 Tabu Jazz 15
Banka për Biznes 36 Emin Pasha's IPM 37 Norway 36 TEB Bank 36
Bar 2000 15 Mosque 16 Italy 36 OK 12 Tirana 12
Barcode 15 EndoDont 36 J&C Art 35 OK pool 37 Tour de Culture 11
Bashkimi Reisen 32 Episcopal Church Japan 36 Old Timers Fest 11 Turkey 36
Bea's 13 of St George 18 Kaderi the Kurila Oltas Pension 12 UN-Habitat 37
Bektashi Tekke 29 Erdo 36 Tekke 18 Optika Jaki 37 United Colours of
Bekteshi 35 Erlind Kasemi 37 Kafiç 15 OSCE Mission in Benetton 35
Belgium 36 Estrada 12 KEK 37 Kosovo 37 United Kingdom 36
Ben-af 35 EULEX 37 Kërëk Mosque 16 Picaso 15 Univers pool 37
Beska 14 Europcar 32 Kino Lumbardhi 10 Pizzeria Tina 31 USA 36
Bulgaria 36 Evropa 14 Kosovsko Kolo 35 Prizren Fortress 16 Vector 34
Burda 35 Extra 14 Kukli Bej Mosque 16 ProCredit Bank 36 Viva Fresh 35
Café Haus 15 Finland 36 Kushtrimi-NM 32 Quattro 15 Woodlands Hotel 30
Cathedral Church of Flutrat 11 Lifefitness 36 Radio Taxi Blue 32 X-Haus 15
Christ the Saviour 17 Foto Agroni 35 Little Big 35 Radio Taxi Fortuna 32 Zambaku i Prizrenit 11
Cathedral of Our Foto Artan & Lucky Cup 15 Radio Taxi OK 32 Zhur Tours 32
Lady of Perpetual Tarkan 35 Lumbardhi valley 21 Radio Taxi Prizreni 32
Succour 17 Foto Sharri 35 M-Burger 13 Raiffeisen Bank 36

Street index for the Prizren city maps on pp.38-39 and 40-41
Adem Jashari D-3 Bujar Godeni D-3 Ismail Kryeziu A-1 Paq ja C-1 Sheshi Pavarësia F-1
Adnan Krasniqi B-4 Bujtinat C-4 Ismet Jashari Kumanova C-4 Petrit Bytyçi C-1 Sheshi Qëndresa I-5
Adriatiku E-1 De Rada A-2 Jani Vreto A-1 Pushkatarët C-3 Sheshi Ramë Bllaca D-2
Agim Shala F-1 Dëshmorët e Prekazit B-1 Joni A-1 Ramadan Zaskoci E-4 Sheshi Shadërvan D-3
Aleksandër Flemingu C-4 Dimitrije Tucovič E-4 Josip Rela C-4 Remzi Ademaj C-3 Sheshi UÇK A-4
Ali Dida A-1 Dragoman E-1 Jusuf Gërvalla B-1 Reshat Karjagdiu B-2 Sheshi Viktimat e Tivarit B-4
Ali Pashë Elbasani E-1 Džemail Bjedič A-1 Kalaja E-4 Rugova I-5 Sheshi Vrapuesja e
Ankara D-1 Edit Durham J-2 Kamber Bruti E-1 Sahat Kulla C-3 Prizrenit I-5
Anton Çetta C-4 Ejup Statovci B-3 Korabi A-3 Salajdin Braha C-2 Shkelzen Dragaj F-1
Ardian Zurnaxhiu D-2 Emin Paşa E-2 Kosova E-1 Sami Frashëri E-2 Shuaip Spahiu C-3
Ardianët C-1 Enver Haradinaj E-2 Kurila F-1 Saraçët C-3 Suzi Qelebi B-3
Aslan Berisha D-4 Fahredin Hoti J-2 Lazër Lumezi D-4 Shahadin Berisha B-4 Sylejman Rrotlla C-1
Astrit Suli D-1 Faik Emruş C-3 Lekë Matrënga B-4 Shën Albani D-4 Sylejman Vokshi I-5
Avni Rrustemi C-1 Farkëtarët D-3 Marin Barleti D-4 Sheshi Alija Izetbegoviç A-3 Tahir Meha D-2
Azem Bejta B-1 Fehmi Lladrovci C-2 Mark Kaçinari D-3 Sheshi Arbri E-1 Tahir Sinani I-4
Azem Hajdari B-4 Gjallica C-1 Martin Camaj C-1 Sheshi Ataturk F-1 Teodor Haxhifilipi D-4
Bajo Topulli A-3 Gjeravica B-2 Mbretëresha Teutë D-2 Sheshi Beyler B-2 Themistokli Gërmenji D-4
Bajrakli E-2 Gjirokastra B-1 Mbreti Zog D-2 Sheshi Bill Clinton A-1 Vajzat e Sulit D-4
Behari A-4 Gustav Majer D-1 Medine D-3 Sheshi Dëshmorët D-3 Vatrat Shqiptare E-3
Beran Gashi I-5 Hadi Kantarxhiu C-1 Mehmet Paşa E-3 Sheshi Ekrem Rexha-Drini K-3 Vëllezërit Frashëri B-1
Berati D-4 Hafiz Ismail Hakki E-2 Mentor Krasniqi D-4 Sheshi Eshref Ademaj I-5 Wesley Clark A-1
Besëlidhja A-3 Halil Berisha B-4 Musa Shehzade F-1 Sheshi Fehmi Agani D-1 William Walker A-3
Besim Ndreca D-4 Hasan Prishtina B-1 Necat Matranci B-4 Sheshi Gjerg j Kastrioti Xhemë Gostivari C-1
Besnik Muçaj B-3 Haxhi Zeka E-1 Nijazi Alishani E-1 Skenderbeu D-1 Xhemil Fluku B-2
Beteja e Kosharës B-3 Hoxhë Tahsini A-3 Nikolla Teslla C-3 Sheshi Lidhja Shqiptare E-2 Ymridin Çengaj I-5
Beteja e Llapushnikut F-1 Husen Redžič F-2 Norë Kelmendi I-5 Sheshi Liria D-3 Yonus Emre F-1
Beteja e Vrrinit C-2 Hysen Rexhepi C-3 Nuri Sherifi D-3 Sheshi Luan Haradinaj C-3 Zahir Pajaziti D-1
Betim Berisha I-5 Ibrahim Lutfiu A-3 Pal Paluca D-4 Sheshi Madeline Albright I/J-2 Zanat A-1
Brahim Osmanaj D-1 Iljaz Kuka C-3 Papa Gjon Pali i II C-4 Sheshi Nënë Tereza C-3 Zara A-1

All street names are preceded with Rruga (Rr.), except for squares: sheshi.

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