Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Prague
Summer 2016

Further Afield
Check out our mini-guides
to Kutná Hora, Olomouc
and Pilsen

inyourpocket.com
N°82
This guide has been made possible by
 All you need to
know about where
to sleep, eat, drink,
visit and enjoy

ONLINE

PRINT
MOBILE

Europe's biggest publisher of locally produced city guides

prague.inyourpocket.com
 Contents

Arrival & Transport 6 Kafka’s Prague 38

History 8 Kutná Hora 50

Basics 10 Olomouc 54

What’s On 12 Pilsen 58

Restaurants 16 Shopping 62

Cafes 26 Leisure 64

Nightlife 28 Directory 66

Essential Prague 32 Hotels 67

Prague Castle 34 Maps & Index

City centre map 70
Sightseeing 38 City map 72
Street register 74
Jewish Prague 44

The National Museum 36

The Old Town square - just one of the spots in our ‘Essential Prague’ selection. Find it on page 32.

facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 3

 Foreword
The sun is shining and we are smiling: welcome to Prague
Publisher
In Your Pocket’s summer issue. As always, we are pleased
WIYP Sp. z o.o.
to share with you the very best this city has to offer, and
Ul. Bohaterow Monte Cassino 6/1
every page offers something worth knowing. Do be sure to
81-805 Sopot
take the time to read our specials features: – Kafka’s Prague
Poland
on page 48, or our in-depth look at Jewish Prague which
tel. +48 602 77 95 81
begins on page 44.
prague@inyourpocket.com
At this time of year we love hanging out al fresco, like www.inyourpocket.com
Petřín (page 42) or a beer garden (we have a list on page
30), both excellent ways to see a bit of Prague’s greener ISSN 1213-2128
side. © WIYP Sp. z o.o.

Summer is of course the most popular time for travel, and Editorial
as such we are showcasing three great Czech cities well Editor Jacy Meyer
worth exploration if you have the time: Kutná Hora and Layout Tomáš Haman, Photos In Your Pocket (unless stated)
Pilsen make great day trips, or head east to Olomouc in Cover © Richard Van Der Woude | Dreamstime.com
Moravia for a longer excursion.
Sales & Circulation
Wherever you go, have a great visit.
General & Sales Manager
Martin Kitson
prague@inyourpocket.com
COVER STORY
Copyright notice & Editor’s note
The second of Prague’s big three Text, photos (unless otherwise stated) and maps copyright
(Square, Bridge, Castle) graces PIYP s.r.o. 2000-2016. All rights reserved. No part of this
the cover of our summer issue publication may be reproduced in any form without written
this year. There will always be permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In
crowds here, although you can Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket
see it in a little more peace and (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
quiet if you get up with the sun
(about 5am) and wander across The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
in relative calm. You can also from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to
turn a trip across the bridge into an educational walk, ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
with our guide its statues on page 42. responsibility for changes and errors.

ABOUT IYP
In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading
publisher of locally-produced city guides
ESTONIA
since 1992, recently launched a brand
RUSSIA
LATVIA
new smartphone app: In Your Pocket
LITHUANIA
NORTHERN
IRELAND City Essentials. Featuring only hand-
BELARUS
IRELAND
NETHERLANDS
picked venues and sights alongside
POLAND
GERMANY UKRAINE
essential travel information, these city
BELGIUM CZECH
REPUBLIC
guides have been carefully crafted by
AUSTRIA
our local editors and include only the
HUNGARY
SWITZERLAND
SLOVENIACROATIA
ROMANIA GEORGIA places they are happy to recommend.
ITALY
BOSNIA SERBIA The app - available on both iOS and
BULGARIA
MONTENEGRO Android - is free, and works offline. Go
FYR MACEDONIA
ALBANIA to iyp.me/app on your smartphone to
GREECE
download it.
DUTCH
CARIBBEAN To keep up with all that’s new at In
SOUTH
AFRICA Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook
(facebook.com/inyourpocket) or Twitter
(twitter.com/inyourpocket).

4 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com

 Arrival & Transport

Don’t forget to stamp your ticket on-board

Prague is well-connected regarding transport, with its own maps of the public transport network from the transit
airport just 20 km from the city centre. The city also boasts authority website (dpp.cz). There is an Airport Express (AE)
a comprehensive and easy-to-use public transportation bus from Hlavní Nádraží which runs every half an hour,
system, which some visitors won’t even find necessary whizzing you across the city in about 30 minutes. Special
thanks to most attractions being within easy walking fares apply to this bus, tickets can only be bought from
distance of one another (not to mention walking being one the driver and do not allow any transfers nor can be used
of the best ways to enjoy Prague). on other forms of transport. First & last buses from Hlavní
Nádraží 05:15 & 21:45, from the airport 04:40 & 21:10.
In this section you’ll find all you need to know about
getting in and out of Prague, as well as around the city with A 32Kč transport ticket (plus a 10Kč one for big bags)
general ease. will get you all the way into town or to the airport on all
public transport except the Airport Express. Tickets can be
bought at the friendly transport information desk in both
AIRPORT arrival halls (open 07:00 - 22:00) or from the coin-operated
VÁCLAV HAVEL AIRPORT PRAGUE machine at the airport bus stop, but not from the driver.
Prague’s airport is 20 km from the city centre. A taxi to You need to validate the ticket (once for the whole trip) in
the town centre costs around 600Kč. You can get one the machines on board the bus.
from the taxi ranks outside, Fix Taxi and AAA Radiotaxi
are the airport’s official taxi companies. Alternatively, Prague’s Terminal 2 allows for at least four million more
use the ČEDAZ minibus service (tel. 220 116 758, 07:30 - passengers a year to travel into Prague with the ability to
19:00) that runs every half hour between the airport and expand to move even more. New bars, restaurants, shops and
V Celnici Street about 50 metres from Náměstí Republiky services ply their trade in this terminal which accommodates
(F-2). Tickets cost 150Kč (including one piece of baggage, flights to and from Schengen countries (Austria, Belgium,
children under 6 free) and can be bought from the driver or Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Italy, Greece,
from the booth in the arrival terminal. Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Greece, Spain
& Sweden). Terminal 1 is for all other destinations.
The cheapest way to get into town is by bus: N°119 (2-8
times per hour between 04:18 and 00:10 with at least one There is a left luggage facility at the airport which doesn’t
wheelchair-friendly bus per hour) runs between the airport close and costs 120Kč per item per day. Other bonus
and the Veleslavín metro station (Line A, green) in about facilities include a branch of the Prague City Tourism Office,
15 minutes. Bus N°100 whisks you to Zličín (metro Line B, showers and a free cinema.QPraha 6, K Letišti 6/1019, tel.
yellow) from the airport in 18 minutes. You can download (+ 420) 220 11 18 88, www.prg.aero/en.
6 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Arrival & Transport
TRAINS PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Prague has two main railway stations. Praha Hlavní nádraží
(main station) and Praha Holešovice. Hlavní nádraží Prague’s public transport system (Dopravní podnik) is
is architecturally fabulous (in the Jugendstil tradition) efficient, fast and reasonably clean. With three metro
although you won’t know it until you exit its underground lines, 26 tram routes and nine night trams you won’t
nightmare. The second station, Praha Holešovice is used by need the bus routes that avoid the centre. Keep in mind
trains on the main Berlin - Prague - Vienna/Bratislava route. that the centre of Prague is easily accessible on foot.
Tickets, valid for all means of transport, can be
PRAGUE MAIN RAILWAY STATION purchased from the numerous vending machines at
(PRAHA HLAVNÍ NÁDRAŽÍ) all metro stations, major tram stops and news stands.
A complete overhaul in the past few years has made You always need to validate your ticket yourself by
Prague’s main train station actually quite attractive and stamping it in the machines at metro entrances and on
dare we say user-friendly. Shops, restaurants and a grocery trams. The most common ticket is the 32Kč transfer
store means all loitering bases are covered, and there is a ticket, which is valid for 90 minutes after validating. The
metro station downstairs from the terminal. You can check 24Kč non-transfer ticket is meant for tram rides under
train schedules online at www.idos.cz and book tickets on 30 minutes with no changes, or in the metro for up to
České dráhy’s (state railway company) trains at www.cd.cz. 5 stations (changes allowed) from the departure station
Other train operators include RegioJet (www.regiojet.cz, within 30 minutes. We suggest you save yourself time by
also has buses) and Leo Express (www.le.cz).QH‑9, Praha buying a handful of these on arrival. If you’re planning to
1, Wilsonova 8, www.cd.cz/en. stay a bit and explore, get the one-day pass (110Kč)or
a three-day pass (310Kč). Children under 6 travel free;
PRAHA HOLEŠOVICE and tickets are half price up to 15 years old. Large pieces
The second station, Praha Holešovice is used by trains on of luggage (including rucksacks) cost an extra 13Kč
the main Berlin - Prague - Vienna/Bratislava route. The small while dogs ride the rails for 26Kč. Fines for no validated
hall holds the ticket office, left luggage lockers, an internet tickets are 800Kč if paid on the spot or pay 1,000Kč later.
café and several exchange and accommodation offices. It is Trams trundle around town every few minutes; useful
three stops on the metro to Muzeum.QH‑3, Partyzánská lines are N°22 and 23 which run from the centre up to
1546/26, tel. (+ 420) 224 61 58 65. Ticket office open the rear entrance of the castle, saving you the uphill
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. walk. The metro connects the two main train stations
and Florenc bus station to the centre and runs up to
TAXIS just after midnight, after which the night trams (the
warm mobile home to many a smelly tramp) take over,
The starting rate should be about 25Kč, and 20Kč per zipping in all directions from the Lazarská stop (H-5)
kilometre after that (34Kč/25Kč respectively if you hail an every half hour. Tram information is on the red signs
honest one on the street). From central Prague, a ride to at each stop and is generally correct assuming of course
the airport has risen to about 600Kč; a short ride in the that some worn out Škoda hasn’t died on the tram lines.
city centre should be about 130Kč, a ride to one of the
surrounding districts up to 200Kč. Beware of Prague’s ultra-professional pickpockets,
especially on trams N°22 and 23 and in busy metro cars;
There’s really no need to agree beforehand on a price (a good consider waiting for the next train if it looks squeezed.
way to get ripped off) if you simply phone one of the reliable For more information visit Dopravní podnik’s excellent
taxi companies listed below who will usually have a car ready website with English and German information on routes
under ten minutes. Else, hail only their cars if you must. and schedules, at www.dpp.cz, or call tel. 222 62 37 77.
TRAVEL INFORMATION CENTRE
AAA - RADIOTAXI All you ever wanted to know about routes, tariffs,
The most reputable company in town is also one of the tickets, timetables, re-routings and service disruptions,
certified taxi companies for Prague’s airport. You can order maps and general information about Prague’s bus, tram
through their website, download their mobile app or call and metro system from multi-lingual folk. Information
direct. They will send you a sms with estimated cost of centres can be found in the following metro stations:
your ride and the make and model of your taxi.QPraha 6, Můstek, Hlavní nádraží (main railway station), Anděl,
Wuchterlova 566/7, tel. 14014/+420 222 333 222, www. Hradčanská, Nádraží Veleslavín and at Václav Havel
aaataxi.cz/en. Airport in both terminals.QPraha 1, 28. října,
MMůstek, tel. (+420) 296 19 18 17, www.dpp.cz/en/
infocentres. Open 07:00 - 21:00. Also at E-4, Můstek,
Get the In Your Pocket Jungmannovo nám., Open 07:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat,
Sun; Anděl, Open 07:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun;
City Essentials App Prague Airport Terminals 1 & 2, Open 07:00 - 22:00.

facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 7

 Basic history
Prague’s New Town Hall in the first of what would be many
such acts over Prague’s history. Interesting, Prague only had
one Hussite king, Jiří z Poděbrad. You can visit his square
today in Prague 3.

The second half of the 15th century proved more peaceful

and productive when the Austrian Habsburgs came to rule.
The spirit of the Renaissance infused Prague and Emperor
Rudolf II added to the city’s lustre by making it the imperial
seat of the Holy Roman Empire. The Habsburgs though
were Catholic and tensions were still strong between them
and the Protestants. The Second Defenestration of Prague
(1618) was due to these strains; two Habsburg councillors
and their secretary were tossed from an upper window in
‘I see a great city whose glory will touch the stars.’ So said Prague Castle. A major Protestant defeat in the Battle at
Libuše, daughter of mythical Czech ruler Krok, as she stood White Mountain (1620) saw Ferdinand II installed on the
on a rocky cliff above the Vltava River. She ordered a castle Czech throne and the city became a provincial capital,
to be built on the spot – now called Vyšehrad – and the without power or importance. Even the first woman on
legend of the founding of Prague in the 8th century was the Czech throne, Empress Maria Theresa (1740-80) didn’t
born. After the death of her father, she became queen and do much to raise hopes of its revival. Her son, Josef II,
married a ploughman named Přemysl. Together, they went most famed acts were his zealous abolition of convents,
on to found the Přemyslid dynasty which ruled the Czech monasteries, and churches, coupled with an intense
lands until 1306. national repression.

Whether the part of this myth about the creation of Prague Fast forward to the 18th century when things began
is true or not, the region was the launch of the Přemyslid looking up. Prague’s four towns of Staré Město, Malá Strana,
dynasty’s march to take over the rest of Bohemia. Prince Hradčany and Nové Město were formed into a single unit
Bořivoj began Prague Castle as the dynasty’s main seat in and Baroque and later Classicism came to the city’s palaces,
870, with Vyšehrad taking a back seat. Christianity came to churches and monuments. A love of Czech language and
the region courtesy of Good King Wenceslas of Christmas literature sparked the 19th century’s National Revival. At the
carol fame. He unfortunately was murdered by his brother, time German was the official language of the country and
however is the country’s patron saint. (St. Wenceslas Day is a surge of national pride led intellectual types to lead the
a public holiday celebrated 28 September). charge in re-establishing ‘Czechism.’ The Neo-Renaissance
style symbolized the rebirth of the Czech nation, a style
The region became part of the Holy Roman Empire that can be seen today buildings closely associated with
following a conquering from Germany but in an unusual Czech national culture like the National Museum, the
display of political cooperation, a Slav alliance was formed National Theatre and the Rudolfinum.
by Přemysl princes who ruled on the Germans behalf. In
1212, Otkar 1 bestowed royal privilege on Staré Město and Now it is 1914. Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria also
in 1257, on Malá Strana – Prague’s first two official quarters. being Royal Prince of Hungary and Bohemia (the Austro-
Hungarian Dual Monarchy of the Austrian Empire and
What is often termed Prague’s golden age is the period Kingdom of Hungary, of which Prague is a part of, was
from 1346-1378 when King Charles IV ruled as king and established in 1867) and his wife Sophie were living just
Holy Roman emperor. His fingerprint can be seen all over outside of Prague in Konopiště castle when they were
the city – from Charles University to Charles Bridge to assassinated while visiting Sarajevo. This act launched World
Charles Square (Karlovo náměstí in Nové Město). After his War I, and eventually led to the forming of the Czechoslovakia
death, his son Wenceslas IV took over and Prague became on October 28, 1918, with Prague as its capital. This date is
one of the most beautiful towns, leading to its nickname still a public holiday in Czech Republic, but interestingly, not
‘Rome of the North.’ Its appearance did not change for in Slovakia. From 1918 until World War II is what is known
another 200 years. as the Frist Republic, a heyday of architectural and cultural
expression. Functionalism morphed into Cubism; the House
Church reform came to Prague and the region in the late of the Black Madonna and the Municipal House are two
14th-15th centuries courtesy of the Hussites. Jan Hus was important buildings from this time.
the firebrand preacher and martyr who was eventually
burned at the stake in 1415, sparking a nationalist rebellion. World War II devastated Europe, but the buildings of Prague
A variety of events came out of this uprising, but one of at least remained mostly intact. The same cannot be said for
the most interesting is the word defenestration - the act of the city’s Jewish population; about three-quarters did not
throwing someone or something out of a window. Seven return from concentration camps. The city’s Jewish Quarter
Catholic councillors were unceremoniously tossed from though did survive, sadly because Adolf Hitler had envisioned
8 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Basic history
the neighbourhood as a museum to ‘an extinct race.’ After
six years of occupation by Nazi Germany, Czechoslovakia HISTORICAL TIMELINE
was liberated in 1945. In 1948, the Communist Party of
Czechoslovakia, with Soviet Union support, took control of 870: Prague Castle founded
the country under what is known today as the Czechoslovak 1347: Coronation of Charles IV as King of Bohemia;
coup d'état. What followed was four decades under Prague becomes capital of the Holy Roman
communism. An attempt at a period of political liberalisation Empire
occurred in 1968. Communist Party of Czechoslovakia head 1348: New Town founded outside Prague’s city walls
Alexander Dubček made efforts to reform communism in 1410: Astronomical Clock installed in Old Town Hall
what is today known as the Prague Spring. The trial of what 1503: Charles Bridge completed. The first stone was
he called ‘socialism with a human face’ involved a loosening laid by King Charles IV (a strong believer in
of the laws governing media, speech and travel, among numerology) at 5:31 am on 9 July 1357
other freedoms. The endeavour lasted barely seven months 1755: St. Nicholas Church in Malá Strana is built. Under
as the alarmed Soviet Union coordinated an invasion of Communism a couple hundred years later, the
Czechoslovakia by members of the Warsaw Pact. The next church tower was used as an observatory by
two decades were a time of ‘normalization’ as subsequent State Security. From the tower watchful eyes
leaders rolled back all of Dubček’s reforms. could keep watch on the American, Yugoslav
and West German embassies
Those years were a low point for the country and it all 1859: The Josef quarter becomes part of the city of
came to a quick end beginning November 17, 1989. On Prague
that day, students held a sanctioned march in honour of 1885: Rudolfinum concert hall is opened
National Students Day. As the students slowly made their 1891: Petřín Lookout Tower is built
way peacefully to Wenceslas Square, they were met by riot 1918: Prague becomes capital of newly formed
police. The police blocked the streets and beat some of the Czechoslovakia
students, an action which horrified much of the population 1931: Prague Zoo opens. Its first resident is a wolf
and led to a series of demonstrations through the month. named Lotta
The top leadership of the Communist Party resigned on 1939: Nazi invasion of Czechoslovakia, the Czech
November 24, 1989 and Václav Havel was elected President portion of which becomes a German
of Czechoslovakia on December 29. protectorate; Slovakia is deemed an independent
state with pro-facist leader Josef Tiso
The early 90s were a rollicking period with a push to 1948: Czechoslovak coup d’état leading to
liberalise prices and privatise the economy. Conflict Communist Party rule
between Czechs and Slovaks remained and what came to 1968: Prague Spring political liberalization, Warsaw
be known as the Velvet Divorce was finalised on January Pack countries invade
1, 1993 when the country spilt in two. The country’s push 1969: In protest of the 1968 invasion, student Jan
towards the West continued with the Czech Republic Palach sets himself on fire on Wenceslas Square
quickly becoming members of NATO (1999), the European 1977: Charter 77 is published by a group of dissidents
Union (2004) and the internal border free region of the including playwright Vaclav Havel. It calls for
Schengen zone (2008). the restoration of civil and political rights
1989: Velvet Revolution leading to the overthrow of
Political strife continues, but despite the politicians the Communist rule
country in the 21st century has a strong economy and 1990: First free elections since 1946 are held; Vaclav
most citizens sport a positive outlook for their future. Havel elected president
1993: Velvet Divorce leading to breakup of
Czechoslovakia
1999: Czech Republic becomes a member of NATO
2002: Vltava overflows its banks leading to major
flooding throughout Prague. Twenty-nine
metro stations were underwater and many
were closed for months afterwards.
2004: Czech Republic joins the European Union with
10 other countries
2013: First directly elected presidential elections take
place; Miloš Zeman is chosen for a five-year term
2016: The Czech government announces that the
country’s international name to be Czechia,
and not the Czech Republic. Amidst public
Plaque commemorating the peaceful student march on November indifference, the announcement is largely ignored.
17, 1989 which led to the start of the Velvet Revolution.

facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 9

 City Basics
FACTS & FIGURES HEALTH & EMERGENCY
In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should
TERRITORY dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department
The Czech Republic’s 78,866 square kilometres ranges or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following:
from rolling vineyards in the south east to mountains ambulance: 155; fire: 150; police: 158. English speaking
suitable for skiing in the north to high plains in the operators will always be available if you phone 112.
centre. It shares a border with four countries: Germany,
Poland, Slovakia and Austria. For urgent medical emergencies, the hospital Nemocnice
na Františku in Prague 1 has a special department for
RIVERS foreigners (Na Františku 847/8; +420 222 801 111; Bus 207).
The Vltava, which runs through Prague, is the country’s Chemist shops are on nearly every block, look for a lékárna.
longest river at 430 kilometres. It hooks up with the Most keep weekday hours only with some being open till
Elbe (Labe) near the town of Mělník which eventually noon or 13:00 on Saturdays. The lékárna at Palackého 5
makes its way to the North Sea. While the famed in Prague 1 is open 24 hours (+420 224 946 982; Můstek
Danube doesn’t flow through the country, the Morava metro, green or yellow line). There’s a dental clinic (+420
River meets it in Bratislava. 224 946 981) at the same address. If you are not up to
battling a Czech hospital, contact the Canadian Medical
MOUNTAINS Centre (+420 235 360 133 during business hours; +420
The Czech Republic is surrounded on nearly all sides 724 300 301 for an emergency, at night or on weekends).
with mountains. In fact, two of the countries four Further help can be provided by contacting your local
national parks border mountain ranges: Šumava and embassy or consulate.
the Krkonoše. The country’s highest point is in the
Krkonoše, Sněžka sits at 1602 metres above sea level.
Other high points of interest included Ještěd near the LAW & ORDER
town of Liberec which has a unique hotel & restaurant In general Prague is far safer than most West European
structure sitting atop its 1012 metres. cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they
simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and
POPULATION (2015) travellers should be on guard against pickpockets; if you’re
Czech Republic - 10.5 mil in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser
Prague - 1.2 mil Brno - 378,000 pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Be
especially vigilant on public transit and in crowded tourist
LOCAL TIME areas like Wenceslas Square.
Czech Republic is in the Central European (CET) time
zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Prague it’s 6:00 Unless you are planning a crime spree, most people shouldn’t
am in New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris fall afoul of Czech authorities. Be smart if you are with a group
and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Czech summer time who may be taking full advantage of Prague’s affordable
(GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of alcohol prices. Rowdy groups have been known to run into
March and October. trouble through vandalism and public urination; both of
which are frowned upon. Most people won’t be out to cause
trouble if you are respectful of them. Men especially should be
CLIMATE aware of nightclubs and strip clubs in which the hefty prices
Czech Republic has a temperate climate with warm for drinks and other services can be forcibly required.
summers and cold winters. Seasons tend to blend together
with lots of unpredictability especially in the spring and Czechs rank amongst the highest cannabis users in Europe.
autumn. Summer temperatures can reach 30 C, but mid to While cultivation and distribution of cannabis is a criminal
high 20s is more likely. In the winter, snow is a possibility in offence, possession for personal use of an amount ‘greater
Prague with temperatures rarely dropping below 0 C in the than small’ is only a misdemeanour punishable by a fine
city. The mountainous areas are colder and with more snow. but not by imprisonment. According to the Czech Supreme
Court, an amount ‘greater than small’ of herbal cannabis
equals 10 grams of dry matter. Again, be smart and don’t
ELECTRICITY toke up in front of a cop.
Electricity in Czech Republic is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets
are round with two round-pin sockets. If you are coming Public transport is cheap and easy - don’t ride black.
from the US, UK or Ireland you will need a plug converter. Buy All tram, metro and bus lines regularly have inspectors
one before your trip or check out the airport shops before roaming and they are experts at picking out tourists. Buy a
leaving or upon arrival. You can try your luck with your hotel ticket and be sure to validate it in the yellow box. Having an
reception but if they don’t have one to loan you they should unvalidated ticket is the same as no ticket at all in the eyes
be able to direct you to the nearest store to purchase one. of the ticket inspectors.
10 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 City Basics
MARKET VALUES TOILETS
Generally speaking, toilets in Czech Republic will be
Prices in Czech Republic are still quite low compared to marked with a universal male or female body symbol.
Western European countries, especially when it comes If not, men should look for ‘muži’ and women should
to dining out and attractions. Here are some typical look for ‘ženy.’ Free toilets are hard to come by - even
everyday products and prices. Market values as of May fast food restaurants have some sort of payment
28, 2016 based on €1 = 27Kč. system or locked door in place - so plan to have at
McDonald's Big Mac 50 Kč € 1.85 least a drink in a café or restaurant if you want to
use their facilities. Most metro stations will have pay
Snickers 13 Kč € 0.48
toilets, typically 10Kč. Have exact change unless you
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 150 Kč € 5.55 want an argument.
0.5ltr beer (shop) 18 Kč € 0.67
0.5ltr beer (bar) 35 Kč € 1.30 WATER
Loaf of white bread 23 Kč € 0.85 Czech tap water is perfectly safe, although a large
Pack of Marlboro cigarettes 100 Kč € 3.70 number of Czechs still prefer to buy it bottled. Still water
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 33 Kč € 1.22 is neperlivá voda while carbonated is perlivá voda. In
restaurants, water is not complimentary, you’ll be forced
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 32 Kč € 1.16 to buy a small overpriced bottle. Some cafes are getting
better, bringing a small glass with your coffee. Beer is still
cheaper than water, even though there have been recent
rumblings in Parliament about a law that would make at
MONEY least one non-alcoholic drink the cheapest item on the
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the menu.
500Kč notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops,
newsagents, public toilets, and even the occasional
restaurant or bar, will often refuse to break a large note for
you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for
NATIONAL HOLIDAY
such moments. The Czech public holiday calendar is fairly well-spread
out, affording workers the opportunity to stretch their
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and holiday allocations a bit further. Unfortunately, if one
anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘směnárna’ although of these dates falls on a Saturday or Sunday, no extra
they all typically say ‘currency’ too. While you can find some day off for you. In the centre, most restaurants will still
good exchange rates, be wary of those located in high be open and larger shops. In neighbourhoods though
tourist areas. You best bet is to withdraw money from the most places, especially food shops will be closed.
ATMs here. If you have a lot left over, exchanging back into Some museums and other attractions may stay open,
Euros isn’t typically too costly. some may not so be sure to check their website before
visiting. Public transport runs a Sunday schedule on
While prices on some goods, like electronics, clothing public holidays. If you are planning on taking a bus or
and food in shops, seems rather high, eating out and train to other parts of the country on or near one of
enjoying the country’s many cultural attractions is still these holidays, be prepared for crowds.
extremely affordable. Both Prague public transportation
and bus and train fares around the country are very 1 January Restoration Day of the Independent
affordable. A ticket to the cinema typically costs 140Kč, Czech State, New Year’s Day
while admission to most museums costs around 120Kč 1 May Labour Day
and you can see an opera for around 500Kč. 8 May Liberation Day
5 July Saint Cyril and Methodius Day
RELIGION 6 July Jan Hus Day (burned at the stake
in 1415)
Czech Republic is reported to be one of the most 28 September St. Wenceslas Day
atheist countries in the world with 88.5% of people 28 October Independent Czechoslovak State Day
claiming to be non-religious or non-declared according (created in 1918)
to recent figures. Historically it wasn’t always this way 17 November Struggle for Freedom
with Christianity dominating until the first half of the and Democracy Day
20th century. Today, about 10% of the population claim 24 December Christmas Eve
to be Roman Catholics. That being said, the country 25 December Christmas Day
has a large number of churches, many of which can be 26 December St. Stephen’s Day
visited.
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 11
 Culture & Events

Check the schedule at the English language friendly Royal Theatre

Prague is something of a cultural Mecca, and not just painters, graphic artists and sculptors.QF‑7, Bílkova 2,
because of the affordable tickets. There was always a lively MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 224 81 26 56, www.glf.cz.
tradition here (Mozart was celebrated as a hero in Prague Open 10:00 - 18:00.
while shunned in Vienna), and the influx of culture-hungry
tourists in the past decade has led to an enormous variety ROBERT GUTTMANN GALLERY
of concerts. Tickets are best and easiest booked via the Named for a native Prague painter, the Robert Guttmann
ticket agencies. Remember, going to the theatre or opera is Gallery hosts temporary exhibitions featuring items from
still something of an event in Prague, and it’s courteous to the Jewish Museum’s collections or aspects of modern
dress up when visiting. Jewish life.QF‑7, U Staré školy 3, MStaroměstská, www.
jewishmuseum.cz/en.
GALLERIES STONE BELL HOUSE
GALERIE LA FEMME (DŮM U KAMMENNÉHO ZVONU)
Small but busy art space off of Pařížská Street, Galerie La The oldest Gothic house in Prague, hidden for years behind
Femme showcases an interesting programme of Czech a neo-Baroque facade, has been superbly restored and now
houses commendable art exhibitions run by the City Gallery
of Prague.QF‑8, Staromětská nám. 13, MStaroměstská,
tel. (+ 420) 224 828 245, www.en.ghmp.cz. Open 10:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 120/60Kč.

THEATRE
CZECH DIVADLO HYBERNIA
CONTEMPORARY Aimed at a tourist crowd, Hybernia shows a steady line-
ART up of ballet and musicals for the non-Czech speaking set.
Paintings, graphics QG‑8, nám. Republiky 4, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+
0 15

and sculptures
n z, 2

420) 221 41 94 12, www.hybernia.eu.

bro

Bílkova 2, Prague 1
r t,
ve

tel.: +420 224 812 656 DIVADLO PONEC

tr o
In

+420 775 726 067 i–

Lip
info@glf.cz, www.glf.cz Mo
na Prague’s premier place for contemporary dance. The
best companies play here, as well as lots of dance and
12 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Culture & Events
movement festivals. If it’s happening in the dance world
locally or globally, you’ll find it at Ponec. Performances EXHIBITIONS
usually start at 20:00 and there’s a bar open one hour prior 15.05 - 25.09 » EMPEROR CHARLES IV
to show time.QI‑8, Husitská 24, MFlorenc, tel. (+ 420) 1316-2016
222 72 15 31, www.divadloponec.cz. A­U­W This exhibition commemorates the life of Emperor Charles
IV with an exceptional collection of cultural and artistic
ESTATES THEATRE (STAVOVSKÉ DIVADLO) artefacts from the period of his life. The exhibition marks
The first theatre to be built in Prague, and it was also here the 700th anniversary of his birth in 1316 and aims to
that Mozart’s Don Giovanni made its debut to a rapturous show him as a unique figure in European political and
Czech audience; the opera was destined to bomb in cultural history. Charles IV was known as an educated,
Vienna.QF‑8, Ovocný trh 1, tel. (+ 420) 224 22 85 03, pious and judicious ruler and as one of history’s most
www.narodni-divadlo.cz. generous patron of the arts. The exhibition sets out to tell
the story of Charles IV through 170 exhibits and hundreds
IMAGE BLACK THEATRE of period documents. After its run here, the exhibition
Black light theatre is unique to Prague and while there are will then move to Nuremburg from October 20 until
many theatres offering performances, Image attendees will March 5.QNational Gallery in Prague - Wallenstein
be treated to a fascinating mix of dance and pantomime. Riding Hall, Valdštejnská 3, MMalostranská, tel. (+420)
QE‑9, Betlémská 5, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 732 257 07 31 36, 280/190Kč. Family ticket 500Kč, www.
156 343, www.imagetheatre.cz. Performances start at charlesivinprague.com.
20:00.
04.05 - 25.09 » RESTLESS FIGURES - EXPRES-
KARLÍN MUSIC THEATRE SION IN CZECH SCULPTURE 1880 - 1914
The theatre has a long history in the city; its first Fascinating exhibition for every sculpture lover – Restless
performance was the circus back in 1881. Fast forward Figures, take an up-close look at Czech sculptors from
to the floods of 2002 which saw the historic building 1880-1914. Works from artists like Josef Václav Myslbek and
practically destroyed. The theatre reopened in 2006 and František Bílek are shown alongside pieces from the likes of
has been hosting a string of popular musicals ever since. Auguste Rodin, Constantin Meunier and Antoine Bourdelle.
QI‑7, Křižíkova 10, tel. (+ 420) 221 86 87 77, www.hdk. QMunicipal Library of Prague, Mariánské náměstí 98/1,
cz. 230-700 Kč €€. J­E­K­W tel. (+420) 222 31 04 89, en.ghmp.cz. Open 10:00-18:00,
Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
LATERNA MAGIKA
Laterna Magika developed a new way of combining 17.06 - 30.04 » RETRO
theatre, dance, music and film for the 1958 Brussels Expo, Think you know what retro is? Come and be educated at
and was doing multi-media performances before the word the hip and happening Retro exhibition at the National
even existed. All productions are visually orientated with Museum New Building. Here it won’t be all pastel furniture
no spoken Czech – ideal for foreigners.QE‑9, Národní 4, and tape recorders but a closer look at a movement that
tel. (+ 420) 222 22 20 41, www.laterna.cz. Performances inspired everything from fashion to toys to household
start at 20:00. Tickets 735Kč. goods. Retro focuses on what was being produced in
Czechoslovakia from the First Republic to the Velvet
ROYAL Revolution and includes lots of fashion along with furniture
A multi-purpose cultural space showing theatre, films and and applied arts.QH‑10, National Museum (New
more, Royal’s building has a long history and today is a Building), Vinohradská 1, MMuzeum, tel. (+ 420) 224
revived gorgeous example of inter-war Czechoslovakia 497 111, www.nm.cz. Open 10:00-18:00, Wed 09:00-
architecture and design. The Royal’s programme is very 18:00.
English-friendly with weekly Burlesque shows, new circus
acts, film nights and more. The décor is living room style 15.05 - 28.09 » THE SCEPTRE AND THE
with lots of comfy chairs and tables scattered about in front CROWN: CHARLES IV AND THE CZECH
of the stage, plus a long bar for drinks during the show. ROYAL CORONATIONS
QVinohradská 48, MNáměstí Míru, tel. (+ 420) 224 211 Pretend you are royalty and check out some historical
444, www.leroyal.cz. coronation paraphernalia at Prague Castle’s Imperial
Stables. The exhibition covers the 1,000-year history of
ŠVANDOVO DIVADLO the coronation of Czech kings. On display are the Czech
Local and international plays, both classic and coronation jewels, the Coronation Rules issued by Charles
contemporary; always something interesting going on at IV, as well as the origin and development of the coronation
Švandovo. They offer English subtitles on screens above ritual between the 11th and 19th centuries. The importance
the stage, so your best bet are seats in the balcony. Visit of St. Wenceslas Chapel inside St. Vitus Cathedral as well
their website for other dramatic and occasionally musical as paintings and fabrics are included.QPrague Castle
interests.QC‑10, Štefánikova 57, tel. (+ 420) 234 65 11 Imperial Stables, Pražský hrad, tel. (+ 420) 224 372 434,
11, www.svandovodivadlo.cz. www.hrad.cz/en.
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 13
 Culture & Events
05.02 - 04.09 » AFGHANISTAN aren’t the only ones inspired by sport.QJ‑3, DOX Centre
- RESCUED TREASURES OF BUDDHISM for Contemporary Art, Poupětova 1, MHolešovice, tel.
In cooperation with the National Museum of Afghanistan (+ 420) 295 568 111, www.dox.cz/en. Open 10:00 -
in Kabul, Prague’s Náprstek Museum offers a partial 18:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 11.00-19.00. Closed Tue.
glimpse into the rich history and tradition of the
Afghan region. Highlights include Afghan Buddhist
relics from the first to ninth centuries AD. Due to the FESTIVALS
ongoing conflict in the region, many items of cultural 18.08 - 04.09 » LETNÍ LETNÁ
importance have been destroyed. The artefacts brought The Letni Letna Festival has become something of a fixture
to Prague were restored locally by restoration experts over in Letna Park with Czech and international circus and
from the National Museum.QE‑9, Náprstkovo Museum, theatre acts performing, often for free, in the open-air. The
Betlémské nám. 1, MNárodní třída, tel. (+ 420) 224 whole thing has a very relaxed atmosphere and it’s a great
497 501, www.nm.cz. Open 10:00-18:00, Wed 09:00- place to visit if you’ve got kids in tow.QE‑6, Letná park,
18:00. Closed Mon. MHradčanská, www.en.letniletna.cz.

03.06 - 28.08 » CONCERTO GLASSICO 2016 21.08 10:00 » CAJOMIR FEST

- THE CZECH ART OF GLASS Tea lovers gather at Vyšehrad every summer for this
Czech glass is globally known and really beautiful stuff. It traditional tea festival. Envisioned as the largest open air
doesn’t make the best souvenir, so take in this exhibition for tea house in Europe, Čajomír Fest brings together tea
an in-depth look at the tradition of the industry.QTuscany masters, teahouses, potters and everyday tea lovers to
Palace, Hradčanské nám. 182/5, free, czechartofglass. explore the traditional and modern world of this globally
com/en. Open 10:00-18:00. revered drink.QVyšehradské sady, Štulcova, www.
cajomir.cz/fest.
10.05 - 31.12 » ALFONS MUCHA
- THE SLAV EPIC 03.09 - 04.09 » FOODPARADE
Mucha fans won’t want to miss this final Prague A weekend of good food and drink in the open air,
opportunity to view the artist’s homage to his roots Foodparade brings together some of Prague’s top
– The Slav Epic. A series of 20 huge canvases, Mucha restaurants and chefs for two days of super eating. It’s
intended it to be a monument for the Slavic people and a casual environment held in the gardens of the Troja
he’s richly illustrated their history and civilization. Mucha Chateau with space and entertainment for the kids.
worked on the paintings for 20 years and they were first Open 10:00 - 21:00 Sat, 10:00 - 18:00 Sun.QE‑1, Troja
unveiled in 1928 to celebrate ten years of an independent Chateau, U trojského zámku 1, MNádraží Holešovice,
Czechoslovak nation. Currently, the exhibition is scheduled tel. (+ 420) 283 85 16 14, www.foodparade.cz. 10:00
to close at the end of 2016 and tour at least China and Every Saturday & Sunday.
Japan through 2018.QTrade Fair Palace, Dukelských
hrdinů 47, MVltavská, tel. (+ 420) 224 301 122, www. 05.09 - 24.09 » THE DVOŘÁK PRAGUE
ngprague.cz/en. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. INTERNATIONAL MUSIC FESTIVAL
Dvořák Prague has had one purpose since launching in
12.05 - 05.02 » CIVITAS CAROLINA, OR, 2008: showcase the work of Czech composer Antonín
BUILDING WORKS DURING THE TIME OF Dvořák. Organizers do this by inviting top conductors and
CHARLES IV soloists as well as internationally recognized orchestras
Charles IV had a massive impact on all aspects of Prague to present a lively line-up of not only Dvořák’s work but
and its citizens’ lives. This exhibition at the National also that of his contemporaries. One of the best classical
Technical Museum takes a look at the architectural boom music festivals on Prague’s cultural calendar.Qwww.
that occurred under his watch. Especially interesting for dvorakovapraha.cz/en.
those who like historical construction machinery and
methods. Highlights include a functioning replica of a
medieval human-power driven wooden hoist and a fully SPECIAL EVENTS
functional replica of a Gothic pile driver.QF‑5, National 04.07 - 03.09 » CORONATION FESTIVITIES
Technical Museum, Kostelní 42, MVltavská, tel. (+ 420) FOR CHARLES IV
220 399 111, www.ntm.cz/en. Open 09:00-17:30, Sat, This year sees the 700th anniversary of King Charles IV as
Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. Czech king and the city are marking the occasion with
a series of special events. Over this weekend there will
24.06 - 10.10 » ALL HAIL SPORT be a torchlight procession to the Vyšehrad, a procession
In this summer of Euro Cup and Olympics, All Hail Sport through Prague and a jousting tournament. Events will
takes a look at the artistic side of sport – how are athletic take places not only at Vyšehrad but also in the square
endeavours portrayed through paintings, sculptures and and at Prague Castle.QF‑14, Vyšehrad, V Pevnosti
collages? Presenting the work of more than 60 Czech artists 159/5b., MVyšehrad, tel. (+ 420) 241 41 03 48, www.
from 1945 to today, the exhibition looks at how athletes karlovapraha.cz.
14 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 The choice is yours!

W
A NE OF
ESS
SUCC THOR
A U
THE EN
ARM
OF C CAL!
U S I
M

AN AMERICAN MUSICAL

LIBRETTO LYRICS MUSIC

IVAN DON FRANK
MENCHELL BLACK WILDHORN
Is presented through special arrangement with Music Theatre International (MTI).
www.MTIshows.com

WWW.HDK.CZ
ENGLISH SUBTITLES www.hdk.cz

Hlavní mediální partner

 Restaurants

Relax away from the crowds in the Miminoo Garden Restaurant (see p. 20)

Prague is aptly named the city of a hundred spires, but round of minigolf. Pizza Nuovo is notable for two reasons,
to the gastronomically inclined it’s also known as the what kid doesn’t like pizza and not only do they have a kids
city of a thousand restaurants. Prague’s cosmopolitan corner, but there’s a babysitter there on weekends.
character is reflected by its increasingly international and
excellent cuisine, although there are still plenty of tourist LIQUID
traps. The figures in brackets denote the approximate The country is rightfully famous for its beer, so why not
price of the cheapest and dearest main course on the go with the flowing keg and make a meal out of it. Beer
menu. The opening hours we list are flexible and are is affectionately called liquid bread here so you could
rough guidelines as to when you can expect the chef consider it cultural. To honestly say you visited a museum
to be working. Most restaurants will stop cooking 30-60 while in Prague, check out the ‘exhibitions’ on tap at the
minutes prior to their stated closing hours. If business Prague Beer Museum, a pub with about 30 different
is slow people will have no qualms about shutting draught beers. Alternatively, enjoy nature while visiting
early particularly out of season. Service in general has and pull up a bench in the Letenské sady beer garden.
improved considerably, although it can still be annoying
slow. Also beware of using ‘thank you’ when paying for ROMANCE
your bill. This is often taken to mean ‘Keep the change’. A sunset walk across Charles Bridge and through the
When tipping, it is customary to round up. If you really winding streets of Prague is pretty romantic in itself, but
enjoyed your meal a tip of 10% is appreciated. In most you do have to eat. Keep the romantic streets close to you
restaurants, expect the server to bring the bill and wait with a visit to Coda Restaurant’s rooftop terrace. Nothing
for you to pay. When handing over your crowns, include says love like sipping a glass of champagne amidst the red
the tip, don’t leave it on the table. If you need change roofs of Malá Strana. When day turns to night, lead your
back, tell the server how much you want to pay – i.e. if love through the winding rooms of U Maltézských rytířů
you are paying with a 500Kč note and you want to get for a candlelight dinner in their cosy cellars.
back 200Kč, tell the server 300Kč.
VEGETARIAN
FAMILIES Maybe you really don’t eat meat, or maybe you’ve been in
Prague isn’t the most child-friendly city when it comes one too many Czech pubs and need a break. Either way,
to eating out with children. Some cafes will have a small Prague isn’t so unfriendly to vegetarians anymore. Clear
children’s corner, but items like high chairs are hard to Head is a spacy place that serves up an international and
come by. Miminoo Garden Restaurant is a good place to creative menu of vegetarian and vegan dishes. For lunch,
try simply because of its open concept which lets parents squeeze in to Country Life which creates a number of
enjoy their meal while the kiddies can run in the large fresh dishes, including soup, daily. It is cafeteria style and
green space. If they behave, you can challenge them to a you pay by weight. There’s also a great bio shop next door.
16 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
AMERICAN
BAD JEFF’S BARBECUE
One of the most enjoyed gourmet burgers in the city, Bad
Jeff only makes a certain number of them a day, so be
prepared with a second option if hungry folk got in before
you. No worries if you miss out on the burger, the ribs
are pure heaven and Jeff does some magical things with
chicken as well.QH‑11, Praha 2, Americká 32, MNáměstí
Míru, tel. (+ 420) 774 402 235, www.badjeffs.cz/en.
Open 12:00 - 15:00 and 18:00 - 23:00, Mon 18:00 - 23:00,
Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun, Note restaurant is closed
from July 24 until August 15.

ČESTR
Meat. Lots of it. If you are thinking about a light meal,
look elsewhere, this place is for hungry appetites. And
adventurous ones too – the Čestr folks like to share
their knowledge and will give detailed advice on which
cuts to order. While the beef is the main draw for more
people, they also offer lamb, chicken, ham and trout.
Cask Pilsner beer makes it just slightly better. Čestr
is actually the name of a type of Czech spotted cow.
QH‑10, Legerova 75, MMuzeum, tel. (+ 420) 222 72
78 51, www.ambi.cz. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 -
23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (135 - 650Kč). P­J­A­G­
K­W

HARD ROCK CAFE

If you’ve been to one, you’ve been to this one. Of
course, the building is classic Prague, located right
off of Old Town Square. The three-level rock venue is
contradictorily located in a neo-renaissance building
with a cool façade and frescos. Inside, in addition to the
good food and rock memorabilia, be sure to note the
5-metre custom made guitar chandelier.QF‑8, Praha
1, Malé náměstí 3, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 224
229 529, www.hardrock.com/cafes/prague/. (250 -
490Kč). A

JÁMA
One of the original American bars in Prague, Jama is
still popular with long-time expats, local business
people and fans of good beer. The location close
to Wenceslas Square offers a great respite from the
crowds with its laid-back and inviting atmosphere and
staff. Unusual (for Prague) dishes include a taco salad,
Cajun chicken steak and cheddar-bacon potato skins.
Both burgers and Mexican specialities are done well,
plus they offer breakfast, weekends only from 11:00-
15:00 and a special night menu.QG‑10, V Jámě 7,
MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 222 967081, www.jamapub.
cz. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Mon 11:00 - 24:00. (50 -
350Kč). T­A­G­B­W

Read more reviews online:

prague.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 17

 Restaurants
MEAT AND GREET BURGERHOUSE
THE CZECH MENU A nice charred piece of beef on a solid bun, the burger
list here is long. Their classic comes with cheddar and
bacon, but opt for one with camembert and a cranberry
sauce to liven things up. A variety of fries and sauces to
add your own special touch, if you really don’t want a
burger, don’t stop in.QG‑8, Senovážné náměstí 994/2,
MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 222 222 089, www.
magburgerhouse.cz. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 23:00.

ARGENTINEAN
Svíčková CC-BY-3.0
EL BARRIO DE ÁNGEL
Hearty meals meant to get you through a long cold This Latin American steakhouse takes inspiration from the
winter, traditional Czech cuisine is heavy on the meat menus of Brazil and Argentine, rustling up both Parrilla
and starch. While some could categorise it as a bit and Churrasco specialty meat preparations. Adventurous
stodgy if you find a good place it also can be considered delights include Carne Montevideano; raw Argentinean
flavourfully filling. beef flavoured with orange peel and chilli, ceviche and
For a time-honoured Czech favourite try svíčková. their Venezuelan seafood soup. From the quality of their
Probably the most often named ‘traditional’ Czech dish, meat to its careful preparation, El Barrio is a notable stop in
it’s a thin slice of sirloin covered in a vegetable-cream the Anděl neighbourhood.QC‑12, Lidická 284/42, tel. (+
sauce and served with bread dumplings usually with 420) 725 535 555, www.elbarrio.cz. Open 11.30 - 24.00,
some cranberry sauce on the side. Kozlovna Apropos Sat, Sun 17.00- 24.00. (150 - 1,200Kč). A­G­
has svíčková on its main menu. Vepřo-knedlo-zelo is
the nickname of a dish consisting of three basic things:
pork (vepřová), dumplings (knedlíky), sauerkraut (zelí). BALKAN
It’s a fairly unappetizing looking dish, but surprisingly GITANES
flavourful with lots of gravy to soak the bread This surrealistic looking restaurant could be consider
dumplings in. It’s kind of an old-fashioned dish, so may romantic, funny or bizarre, depending on your mood.
not appear on every Czech menu, but Století serves it. Mediterranean cuisine, with heavy Croatian influences
Guláš is a bit easier to find, but varies wildly in style. At is presented in a colourfully chaotic space. Starters are
Bredovský dvůr, they make theirs with chunks of beef, fairly standard (though tasty) and main course specialities
spicy sausage and potato pancakes. include Balkan roasted veal and lamb as well as a long fish
If you’d rather just have something strange to enjoy and seafood list. With Serbian and Montenegrin wines on
with your beer, there are two enjoyable options to the menu, Gitanes is a fun place to eat completely non-
recommend. Utopenci translates to drowning man Czech.QC‑8, Tržiště 7, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257
and is a short fat sausage that has been drowning 53 01 63, www.gitanes.cz. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (120 -
in oil, vinegar and spices for an unknown period of 2,000Kč). A­G­B­K­W
time. It’s served with chopped onions and bread. For
vegetarians, you have the joy of trying nakládaný LUKA LU
hermelín. This is a camembert-like soft cheese pickled The décor appears a bit mad, and the atmosphere chaotic,
in, you guessed it, oil, garlic, peppers and spices. It too is but when it comes to the kitchen, all seems under control.
served with onions and bread. You can try both of these Balkan and Italian influenced dishes are on the menu, and
with a draft Pilsner beer at Hybernia. the seafood choices inspired by Croatia are recommended.
And speaking of vegetarians, don’t feel too left out. The owners are from Sarajevo so much of the creativeness
Most restaurants will have a ‘bez masa’ section in which for the grilled meat dishes comes from Bosnia and Serbia.
they list dishes without meat. Be careful though as Fun place.QC‑9, Újezd 33, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420)
there are often dishes that have meat in them included 257 21 23 88, www.lukalu.cz. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (55 -
here. The thinking behind this goes as meat is not 1,800Kč). J­A­G­B­K­W
the main item in the dish, it’s okay to have it in the
‘without meat’ section. Always ask. If you are in a Czech
restaurant, a pasta and/or risotto will often be here as CZECH
will smažený sýr. Literally fried cheese, this will be a BREDOVSKÝ DVŮR
big slab of fried Edam most often eaten with chips and Well-prepared Czech staples and lots of flowing Pilsner
tartar sauce. Lokál fries up a tasty one. If you really want are the hallmarks of this long-time popular pub close
to be crazy, try this late night burger-style (served on a to the main train station. The cosy brick-lined bar
bun with mayo) at a food stand on Wenceslas Square. atmosphere has been touched up with some funky
lights and cool bar. If you are dining, be sure to go to
18 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
the back space, there is a winter garden too. Prices are
decent for the location and the staff is helpful.QG‑9,
Politických vězňů 13, MHlavní nádraží, tel. (+ 420)
224 21 54 27, www.restauracebredovskydvur.cz.
Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 2,000Kč).
P­A­B­K

LOKÁL
The place to go for typical Czech pub dishes in a typical
Czech pub atmosphere. But wait – there’s more! Lokál is run
by the uber-professional Ambiente restaurant group which
means the food here is quality, the service super and the
tank Pilsner tops. They’ve gone for a faux beer hall décor
with what basically looks like one big long table. Call it ‘old
Czech pub made fresh.’You may want to make reservations.
QG‑7, Dlouhá 33, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 222
31 62 65, www.ambi.cz. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00
- 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (99 - 269Kč). P­JA ­ ­G­
K­S­W

NOTA BENE
One of the first Prague locavore restaurants, this wildly
popular Vinohrady spot offers up speciality meat dishes
and a rotating list of Czech beers from not so common
breweries. Excellent place to get a glimpse of the Czech
food scene. The menu changes daily, but beware, it’s
pretty small. They do take reservations and you can
sometimes get lucky and find a spot in the downstairs
Beerpoint (Open 17:00 - 22:00 Mon-Fri) which offers
eight taps (two with non-Czech beer) and a different,
smaller snack-like menu than the upstairs restaurant.
QG‑11, Mikovcova 4, MI. P. Pavlova, tel. (+ 420) 721
299 131, www.notabene-restaurant.cz. Open 11:00-
23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (119 - 300Kč).
A­G­K­

PLZEŇSKÁ
Perfectly located Czech restaurant, Plzeňská isn’t the most
affordable place to dine, but it does have some points
going for it, besides the location. Here you can take a deep
dive into traditional Czech cuisine – basically anything you
order will be an ode to the country’s cooking traditions. An
accordion player accompanies your meal in the evenings.
It’s also an excellent chance to get a glimpse of the beautiful
Municipal House building – the restaurant itself is epic
Art Nouveau.QG‑8, Náměstí republiky 5, MNáměstí
Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 222 00 27 70, plzenskarestaurace.
cz. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (210 - 600Kč). J­A­E­G­K­
­W

STOLETÍ
The food is great value, the atmosphere lively and the
service fantastic. Even better, Století is one of the only
restaurants that is seriously attempting to progress Czech
cuisine while keeping it Czech at the same time. Plus, they
are non-smoking and offer take-away.QE‑9, Karolíny
Světlé 21, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 222 22 00 08,
www.stoleti.cz. Open 11:30 - 22:30. (190 - 400Kč).
P­T­A­U­I­G­B­K­S­W
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 19
 Restaurants
U EMY DESTINNOVÉ
TOWER PARK PRAGUE Still one of the biggest tourist traps in town, and still
recommended, simply for their beer. Brewed on the spot
since 1499, it is a dark well-done ale. The interiors appear to
date back to that period as well and provide nice photo ops
as do the wait-staff who have a great way of counting the
number of beers you’ve had by chalking them up on your
beermat as you go along. Czech food is on the menu, and
does pair nicely with their brews while the live music by the
in-house band helps create a great atmosphere.QF‑11,
Kateřínská 7, MKarlovo nám., tel. (+ 420) 224 91 84 25,
www.uemydestinnove.cz. Open 11:30 - 23:30, Sat 18:00
- 24:00. Closed Sun. (180 - 420Kč). J­A­E­G­K­W

PRAGUE TV TOWER (TOWER PARK PRAGUE) U MALTÉZSKÝCH RYTÍŘŮ

Once voted one of the ugliest buildings in the world, Nestled in the winding streets under Prague Castle, you’ll
the building formerly known as the Žižkov TV Tower encounter another maze of twisting rooms upon entering
(now the Tower Park Prague) is actually an entertaining this historic restaurant. The building dates back to the
complex for those who like a view. There’s a café, 14th century and this is a surprisingly cosy and romantic
restaurant and viewing platform offering 360 degree restaurant. Czech meals are offered, but fish, salads and
views of Prague as well as a garden restaurant with pasta, along with a variety of wines are also available.
lots of green space underneath. At 216 metres, it is not QC‑8, Prokopská 10, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 774
only the tallest building in Prague, but also the tallest 74 29 99, www.umaltezskychrytiru.com. Open 13:00 -
tower and the highest viewing platform in the Czech 23:00. (300 - 600Kč). A­I­E­G­B­K­W
Republic. Of course the most interesting element are
the ten babies climbing up the giant tower. Really. U PINKASŮ
QK‑4, Praha 3, Mahlerovy sady, MJiřího z Poděbrad, The presence of locals is encouraging in this beer hall
tel. + 420 210 320 081/+ 420 210 320 140, info@ whose not unimpressive claim to fame is that of being the
towerpark.cz, www.towerpark.cz/en. Open 08:00 - first pivnice in Prague to have Pilsner Urquell on draught.
24:00. P­i­T­A­6­U­L­V­G­B­K­w­W A commemorative plaque and a tap mark the spot where
MIMINOO GARDEN RESTAURANT this country’s most renowned beer began to flow in 1843.
A quiet place in the heart of Prague with a relaxing In today’s establishment you’ll find a courtyard terrace and
atmosphere and an mix of Czech and Italian cooking, two floors of beer swilling and sausage eating. More elegant
MIMINOO is located directly under the Žižkov Television no-smoking rooms are available for dining; the menu,
Tower.QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. although traditional, is uninspired.QF‑9, Jungmannovo
nám. 16, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 221 11 11 52, www.
OBLACA RESTAURANT upinkasu.cz. Open 10:00 - 03:00. (150 - 350Kč). A­E­
The view from 66 metres above ground is the biggest G­B­K­W
reason to book a table at Oblaca, located in Prague 3’s
TV tower. Local and seasonal dishes are served, with U PROVAZNICE
an emphasis on modern regional cooking and some What used to be an affordable city centre secret is now
international favourites.QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. P­K­W a busy, but still reasonable, beer and lunch spot. Located
right near the Můstek metro station, the restaurant is filled
ONE ROOM HOTEL to bursting with local business people at lunch and sees a
If you really want to spoil that special someone in your steady beer clientele throughout the day. Great place to test
life, you could rent an entire hotel for the night, just for out some Czech dishes – try a couple of the cold and warm
them. Or reserve the only hotel room in Prague’s TV appetizers for a mini meat tasting.QF‑9, Provaznická 3,
tower. The well-appointed suite is located 70 metres MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 224 23 25 28, www.uprovaznice.
above ground and offers a massive bathroom, dressing cz. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (75 - 400 Kč). P­A­G­B­K­
room and top techs. Probably the most memorable
feature would be taking your evening bath in the glass-
enclosed bathroom. Or telling your friends you were FRENCH
the only guests in the hotel.Q1 room (1 suite €1000). CAFÉ DE PARIS
P­i­A­K­W hhhhh Nestled on the winding streets of the Malá strana quarter,
TOWER PARK MINIGOLF Café de Paris has a menu that changes with the season,
An 18-hole mini-golf course in the shadow of one of recommendable desserts and two gardens. Their Entrecote
the city’s most recognisable buildings - the former Café de Paris, prepared according to a secret recipe and
Prague TV Tower. a vegetarian dish are available year-round. The inside is
minimalist and the experience is one of restful satisfaction.
20 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
QC‑8, Maltézské nám. 4, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420)
603 16 07 18, www.cafedeparis.cz. Open 11:30 - 24:00.
(165 - 269Kč). T­J­G­B­K

CHEZ MARCEL
Lovely French bistro off Náměstí Republiky, the staff at
friendly Chez Marcel are happy to offer up suggestions on
wine or the freshest dish of the day. Popularities include the
Snails à la Provençale as well as the duck and cod. They have
a small daily menu and reservations are recommended for
evenings, Chez Marcel is popular for small group parties.
BREAKFA ST & TAIJI
Also at (J-6) Americká 20.QF‑7, Haštalská 12, MNám.
Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 222 31 56 76, www.chezmarcel. GRILL
cz. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (90 - 300Kč). J­A­E­B­K­W TITO SPECK
PROSECCARIE
FRANCOUZSKÁ RESTAURACE ART NOUVEAU
Superb French (and some Czech) gourmet dishes from CAFE DEL A SICILE
this restaurant’s award winning chefs. Mussels, rabbit, foie SPRITZERIE PICNIC
gras and duck all make delightful appearances in one
PÉTANQUE
of the world’s masterpieces of art nouveau architecture
(the Municipal House building itself ) and interior.QG‑8, MINIGOLF
Náměstí Republiky 5, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420)
222 00 27 70, www.francouzskarestaurace.cz. Open
12:00 – 23:00. (600 - 2,000Kč). P­A­U­E­B WWW.MIMINOO.CZ
Mahlerovy sady 1 • 130 00 Prague 3 • info@miminoo.cz
+420 210 320 140 • facebook.com/miminoorestaurant
INDIAN #miminoorestaurant
BEAS
Excellent place for a casual, filling, affordable Indian lunch.
There are a number of Beas scattered about town; this one
can be found tucked behind the large Quadrio shopping
centre and Tesco building. They prepare fresh food inspired
SMOKERS’ PARADISE
from Northern Indian daily – two vegetable dishes, two
dahl dishes, rice and something sweet. Self-serve and you
pay by weight; free water on every table.QF‑8, Týnská 19,
MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 608 03 57 27, www.beas-
dhaba.cz. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun
12:00 - 18:00. (16Kč/100gr.). P­J­A­S­W

INTERNATIONAL
AMBIENTE PASTA FRESCA
For a very nice meal between Old Town Square and Náměstí
republiky this Italian restaurant is one of your best bets. Fresh
ingredients (including homemade pasta) and a long Italian Smokers love the Czech Republic, as unlike in just about
wine list make Pasta Fresca a wonderful place to unwind. every other EU country, there aren’t any strict smoking
Service is good and the décor is basic Italian bistro – nothing laws. Current legislation leaves it up to individual
fancy, just simple loveliness to match the food.QF‑8, Celetná establishments whether to be allow smoking or
11, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 224 23 02 44, www. not, but they do need to have a sticker on their front
ambi.cz. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (120 - 350Kč). P­A­G­W door indicating if they are smoking, non-smoking
or both. Many restaurants will offer a non-smoking
HOME KITCHEN section, but don’t assume that means a separate room;
Fresh and flavourful, Home Kitchen offers great breakfast, coffee sometimes smokers get one half, non-smokers get the
and daily fresh cakes near Wenceslas Square. Coffee is quality other half of the same room. In public buildings like
here and the breakfast offerings rotate based on seasonal train stations, metro stations, shopping centres, etc.,
ingredients. Eggs, omelettes and crepes are standard in the cosy smoking is prohibited, as well as at tram and bus stops.
farmhouse décor. Closed weekends.QF‑10, Jungmannova 8, In our guide we have marked those places which are
MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 734 71 42 27, www.homekitchen.cz. completely non-smoking with the appropriate symbol.
Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (75 - 180Kč).
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 21
 Restaurants
HYBERNIA
BECHEROVKA Well-liked Pilsner pub, Hybernia is popular with
neighbourhood business people both for the restaurant’s
Described as either tasting like solid lunch menu and as a place for an after work drink. The
Christmas or something less space is large and rambling and a few tables have their own
complimentary, depending beer taps. Grilled meat is the speciality here, but they also
on whom you’re speaking to, have pasta, traditional Czech recipes and a couple token
Becherovka is Czech’s national meald tossed in for veggies. They also have an affordable
spirit (beer rightfully acknowl- breakfast menu, better for weekdays when they open at
edged as the national drink). It is 8:00.QH‑8, Hybernská 7, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420)
basically a herbal liqueur whose 224 22 60 04, www.hybernia.cz. Open 08:00 - 23:30, Sat,
dominant flavours include cinna- Sun 10:30 - 23:30. (150 - 350Kč). P­i­A­G
mon, clove and orange. Used as
both an aperitif, digestive and to KOFEIN
toast happy occasions, the spirit Tapas Czech style in this cool new Prague 3 place. An eclectic
is a harmonic blend of more but tasty menu – there’s about two dozen hot and cold tapas.
than 20 herbs and spices. Priding Flavours range from Chorizo Ibérico to duck to hamburgers,
itself on being all-natural, with with lots of vegetarian options too. Friendly service; the place
no artificial colours or chemical is small and popular so reservations are recommended.
preservatives, it’s a smooth drink QJ‑11, Nitranská 9, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+ 420) 273
that should definitely be expe- 13 21 45, www.ikofein.cz. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
rienced while visiting. Enjoy it 17:00 - 24:00. (125 - 255Kč). P­J­A­G­W
slowly – Becherovka is made to
be sipped, not slammed. KRYSTAL MOZAIKA BISTRO
A variety of meaty and American dishes; the burger is a
Due to Karlovy Vary’s hopping medical spa trade, good choice and both the beef and the veal dishes have
Becherovka was first marketed to visiting guests been enjoyed. Krystal does desserts fairly well, especially
as a digestive aid. It was created in 1807 by local the carrot cake. Be sure to check the chalkboard for the
resident and spice trader Jan Becher, who apparently daily specials – good value and usually innovative choices.
enjoyed tinkering with alcohol in his free time. With A casual place, service is friendly.QK‑6, Sokolovská 99,
Karlovy Vary being known for its 12 mineral springs, MKřižíkova, tel. (+ 420) 222 31 81 52, www.krystal-
Becherovka became to be known as the thirteenth. bistro.cz. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (109
The liqueur has popped up in many interesting places - 319Kč).
through history. Johann Wolfgang Goethe spent time
in Karlovy Vary in 1812 and even though he didn’t LA DEGUSTATION
smoke or drink, bought a bottle of Becherovka and One of Prague’s finest. La Degustation is the place to dine
noted it in his diary. During World War I it was shipped for a serious tasting menu of the best flavours from Czech
to soldiers on the front line in special cups with lids. cooking. There are two tasting options which differ daily
The company was nationalised along with all other and include a specially chosen wine for each course. The
privately owned companies after the communist Boheme Bourgeoise includes six courses with specialties
takeover following World War II. It was privatised in from the Czech countryside, while the Degustation du
1997 and since 2001 has been run by French group Chef has 11 servings. With only 40 seats, recommendations
Pernod Ricard. are strongly recommended.QF‑7, Haštalská 18, MNám.
Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 222 31 12 34, www.ladegustation.
If you purchase a bottle, take notice of the container’s cz. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (945 - 2,450Kč). P­Y­J­A­
unusual flat shape. This was designed by Becher’s G­K­W
brother in 1866. The bottle has been in green glass
since 1907. Becherovka makes a great souvenir that V ZÁTIŠÍ
can be enjoyed year round. For winter colds, try a A restaurant and wine bar that remains one of best
steaming mug of hot water with a shot of Becherovka, in Prague. Without being snooty, it manages to serve
teaspoon of honey and slice of lemon. In summer, fabulous and inventive meals to a middle-aged crowd
a Beton, made with Becherovka, tonic and a slice of of foreigners and locals. Indeed, the best things about it
lemon is a refreshing alternative to a gin & tonic. (apart from the traditional kulajda soup, the lamb chops
The drink was first introduced at the 1967 World and their intriguing Indian dishes) are the relaxed, intimate
Expo in Montreal. For a more cocktail-like drink, mix atmosphere, and the waiters who enjoy their jobs and
Becherovka, apple liqueur, ginger lemonade and pour know their wines. Not to be missed.QE‑9, Liliová 1,
over ice. Garnish with a sprig of mint and slice of lime Betlemské nám., MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 222 22 11 55,
for a B-celebration. www.vzatisi.cz. Open 12:00 - 15:00 and 17:30 - 23:00.
(600 - 1,500Kč). P­A­U­G
22 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
ITALIAN FAST FOOD
COTTOCRUDO
The Four Season’s signature local restaurant CottoCrudo
emphasises modern Italian cooking and includes a fun
crudo (raw) bar in which to select choice prosciutto and
mozzarella from their culinary station. Mains are creatively
prepared and elegantly served. A cocktail or two in their
stylish lounge is an elegant way to enjoy an evening drink
with bonus views to Prague Castle as your backdrop.QE‑8,
Veleslavínova 2a, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 221 42
68 80, www.cottocrudo.cz. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (220 -
900Kč). P­A­U­E­G

LA FINESTRA IN CUCINA In Prague, Ronald McDonald takes a backseat to

Simple Italian cooking, prepared where you can see it. Colonel Sanders who appears to be, well, everywhere.
The menu regularly changes and emphasizes seasonal Quick slices of pizza and kebabs are also a popular treat
treats. This gorgeous space is rightly proud of its quality around town and can be had 24hrs at the bottom of
meats – order something made with one of their fresh Wenceslas Square. If you’ve had your fill of knedlíky and
fish items.QE‑8, Platnéřská 13, MStaroměstská, tel. only a Big Mac will do, here’s where to find one.
(+ 420) 222 32 53 25, www.lafinestra.cz. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (245 - 495Kč). J­A­R­ BURGER KING
V­E­G­K Also at Praha 1, 28. října 12 and Praha 1, Náměstí
Republiky 1078/1.QG‑10, Václavské náměstí
52, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 725 412 027, www.
JEWISH myburgerking.cz/restaurace/. Open 10:00 - 01:00,
KING SOLOMON Open 24hrs Fri, Sat.
The Czech Republic’s oldest kosher restaurant is located in
the heart of Prague’s Jewish Quarter. Specialising in regional KFC
Jewish cooking, they use locally sourced meats and have a Also at Národní 961/25; Nám. Republiky 1078/1
nice selection of homemade breads. The daily menu is a and Kaprova 14.QG‑10, Václavské nám. 802/56,
great option, offering a choice of soup, main dish, dessert MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 235 01 34 02, www.kfc.cz.
or salad and one drink. Friday dinner and Saturday lunch Open 24hrs, Sun 07:00 - 03:00.
are by reservation only.QE‑7, Široká 8, MStaroměstská,
tel. (+ 420) 224 81 87 52, www.kosher.cz. Open 12:00 – MCDONALDS
23.00, Sun 12:00 – 22:30. Closed Sat, Friday dinner only Also at Praha 1, Václavské náměstí 9; Praha 1, Na
by reservation, Saturday lunch reservations only. (250 - Příkopě 10; Praha 1, Nákupní centrum Palladium,
1,000Kč). P­J­A­U­G­K­W Náměstí Republiky 1078/1; Praha 1, Mostecká 21;
Praha 1, Vodičkova 15.QG‑10, Václavské náměstí
812/59, MMuzeum, tel. (+ 420) 724 104 305, www.
LATIN AMERICAN mcdonalds.cz. Open 24hrs.
AMBIENTE BRASILEIRO
Really, like seriously hungry? If you’ve got a hankering PANERIA
for finely prepared Brazilian food, Brasileiro makes top- Paneria is a chain of bakeries with a tasty range of sweet
notch Churrasco, a special way of cooking meat on a and savoury snacks; including pastries, sandwiches,
skewer. Knife-wielding staff wander through, shaving soups and bread that fuels you up. Good place to
juicy slices directly onto your plate. There’s even a handy pop in for breakfast and a coffee. Also at Jindřišská
green card on your table announcing you are ready 21, Rytířská 12, Národní 18 and many other locations.
for more. If you are looking for something lighter, you QE‑8, Kaprova 3, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 702
can go for the all you can eat salad buffet with seafood 127 704, www.paneria.cz. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sun
items; both meat and non-meat buffets are cheaper 07:30 - 19:00. (45 - 120Kč). i­A­G­S
before 18:00. Also at F-3, Na Přikopě 22 - Slovanský Dům.
QF‑8, U Radnice 8, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 224 SUBWAY
23 44 74, www.ambi.cz. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (225 - Also at ​Praha 1, Jindřišská 30, 110 00; Praha 1, Spálená
545Kč). P­A­G­W 59 and Praha 1, Karmelitská 28.QG‑8, Pasáž Broadway,
Na Příkopě 31, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+ 420)
739 323 386, www.subw.cz. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun
instagram.com/in_your_pocket 09:00 - 22:00.

facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 23

 Restaurants
FOOD WITH A VIEW MEXICAN & TEX-MEX
CANTINA
One of the oldest Mexican restaurants in town, Cantina is
still serving up traditional favourites like fajitas, quesadillas
and more. Unique takes include a grilled salmon steak
served with a cheese quesadilla and Spanish rice as well
as enchiladas de res which is blue corn tortillas filled with
slow roasted beef and the house tomato sauce. Tequila and
mezcal lists too.QC‑9, Újezd 38, MMalostranská, tel. (+
420) 257 31 71 73, www.restauracecantina.cz. Open
11:30 - 24:00. (120 - 450 Kč). L­E­G­B­K

PIZZA
COLOSEUM
Casual with an Italian vibe, this restaurant behind the main
Coda rooftop terrace shopping drag of Na příkopě serves up solid pizzas, pastas
and more. The chefs are in the midst of it all, pushing pies
These restaurants are the ones to head for if you’re into the brick oven while a steady trickle of diners come in
yearning for spectacular views over the city while you for the spaghetti and shrimp, veal with asparagus, octopus
hold the hand of your lover. Or if you need something risotto or a pizza that has steak fries on top. Their daily
to look at if the conversation wanes... menu offers a soup of the day plus is good until 15:00.
QF‑9, Ovocný Trh 8, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 224 23 83
CODA 55, www.pizzacoloseum.cz. Open 10:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun
The Coda Restaurant is located in the musically 11.30 - 23.30. (150 - 400Kč). P­J­A­G­K
themed Aria Hotel. Beautifully decorated with original
works of art, the cuisine is seasonally matched and GIALLO ROSA
features a tasting menu, Czech tasting menu and This restaurant/walk-up place offers super good pizza not
a la carte dinners. Summer is the best time to visit only late, but also in a prime Old Town location. Takeaway
thanks to their rooftop terrace with a 360° view of is available till 02:00 on Friday and midnight on Saturdays.
Prague, especially Prague Castle and the winding The menu includes fresh pastas and US beef flank steaks,
streets of Malá Strana.QC‑8, Tržiště 9 (Aria Hotel), but the pizzas remain the stars, with the margherita con
MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 225 33 47 61, www. bufala and diavola which is topped with a spicy salami
codarestaurant.cz/en. Open 07:00 - 22:30, Terrace from Naples both becoming well-loved Prague memories.
open from 11:30 am. QF‑8, Jakubská 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 604
89 89 89, www.giallorossa.cz. Open Mon, Tue, Sun 11:30
GINGER & FRED - 23:00, Wed, Thu, Sat 11:30 - 24:00, Fri 11:30 - 01:00.
Enjoy international cuisine with a touch of French on (From 25Kč/slice). J­A­G­S
the 7th floor of the Dancing House. Here you’ll enjoy
an elegant meal surrounded by contemporary art and PIZZA NUOVA
lots of Prague views. The menu changes seasonally The Ambiente group turn their talented hands to Naples at
and an emphasis is put on local food and suppliers. this excellent pizza and pasta restaurant. Strategic location
QE‑11, Jiráskovo náměstí 6 (Dancing House), tel. adjacent to the massive Palladium shopping centre, you’ll
(+ 420) 221 98 41 60, www.ginger-fred-restaurant. appreciate Ambiente’s trademark flair and an extensive
cz/en. Italian and Czech wine list. There are a couple tasting
menus if you are feeling indecisive. Parents take note -
GROSSETO there’s a kids corner here open daily with a babysitter on
Popular pizza joint in the Vinohrady neighbourhood, weekends.QG‑7, Revoluční 1, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+
Grosseto typically has a wait on most evenings. The 420) 221 80 33 08, www.ambi.cz. Open 11:30 - 23:30.
interior is large with a skinny second floor and super (150 - 500Kč). P­T­A­6­V­G­K­W
summer courtyard garden (entrance around the
corner). Menu highlights are still the pizzas but the
chicken and pork dishes are surprisingly inventive and SEAFOOD
nice as well. Also at Jugoslávských partyzánů 8 and ZDENĚK’S OYSTER BAR
Vyskočilova 2.QH‑11, Francouzská 2, MNám. Míru, Classy place with some of the freshest fish in town,
tel. (+ 420) 224 25 27 78, www.grosseto.cz. Open Zdenek’s signature oysters are the stars of the place, but the
11:30 - 23:00. (150 - 400Kč). J­A­B­S prawns come a close second. Ask for recommendations on
both fish and wine, the staff is knowledgeable and really
24 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
friendly. The interior is warm and romantic, you might feel
you took a wrong turn to Paris, but everything is down-to- BREWERY RESTAURANTS
earth and fun. Reservations recommended.QF‑8, Malá
Štupartská 5, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 725 94 62 50,
www.oysterbar.cz. Open 12:00 - 01:00. (285 - 2,000Kč).
P­A­G­B­K­W

THAI
NOI
Still one of the best Thai restaurants in town, Noi is a lovely
place to experience Yam Woon Sen, Kang Phed Moo or
Phad Thai Kai. Every dishes is creatively prepared and the Potrefená Husa
atmosphere is roomy and relaxing. There is a side garden IN LOCO
for al fresco dining, or order your food to go.QC‑9, Újezd For fresh Budvar beer and an international menu with a
19, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 31 14 11, www. nice selection of Czech inspired specials, head to In Loco
noirestaurant.cz. Open 11:00 - 01:00. (150 - 290Kč). in the Karlín neighbourhood. The marinated pork neck
P­A­G­B­S­W and grilled chicken are two creative recommendations.
Original, classic and dark Budvar is on tap, plus they
have a selection of the brewer’s other concoctions in
VEGETARIAN bottles. Daily lunch specials too.QI‑7, Sokolovská 32,
CLEAR HEAD (LEHKÁ HLAVA) tel. (+ 420) 608 178 539, www.inloco.cz/florenc.
Lehká hlava means clear head in Czech and if you’ve gone Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
a bit wild on the Czech food and beer you will appreciate
this fresh vegetarian option. With a slightly spacy interior KOZLOVNA APROPOS
(small, make reservations for dinner) the meals coming Kozel beer has been surging in popularity the past few
out of the kitchen are also out of this world. Many meals years, and nowhere is better to taste it than one of the
are vegan, or can be made vegan and some are gluten- brewery’s own restaurants. Here you can enjoy fresh
free. From eggplant tortillas with brie to seitan gyros, Kozel straight from the tank accompanied by Czech
the menu is international enough for all tastes. The cuisine, perhaps something from their lava grill? Their
street is small and hard to find – if you aren’t sure if you guláš is prepared with dark beer, go total meat with the
are on the right street, you probably are.QE‑9, Boršov Staropražský talíř consisting of roast pork, smoked meat
2, MNárodní třída, tel. (+ 420) 222 22 06 65, www. and grilled sausage or shakeup your burger routine
lehkahlava.cz. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - with one made from duck.QE‑8, Křižovnická 4, tel.
22:00. (80 - 450Kč). A­­G­K (+420) 222 31 45 73, www.kozlovna-apropos.cz.
Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00.
COUNTRY LIFE
Great place for an inexpensive vegetarian lunch; Country POTREFENÁ HUSA NÁRODNÍ
Life is also a health food store. A small selection of fresh The Staropramen-branded restaurants appear in most
vegetarian dishes are prepared daily and served up of Prague’s quarters; this centrally located one between
cafeteria style, as well as a delicious soup. Pay by weight Wenceslas Square the National Theatre is the place to
and there is free water. Very popular with local workers try a variety of the Prague brewery’s beer with decent
during lunch, feel free to invite yourself to join someone Czech and international dishes. A bustling open space,
else’s table. The tiny restaurant does expand into the highlights include their leg of lamb and pork schnitzel.
courtyard in the summer. Also at H-4, Jungmannova QF‑10, Národní třída 364/39, tel. (+ 420) 734 75 69
1.QF‑8, Melantrichova 15, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 224 00, www.potrefenahusa.cz. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (120
21 33 66, www.countrylife.cz. Open 10:30 - 19:30, Fri - 350Kč). T­A­6­U­G­B­K­W
10:30 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. (75 - 150Kč).
P­T­J­A­U­G­K V KOLKOVNĚ
The first Pilsner Urquell restaurant is still one of the
LOVING HUT best places to go to experience huge portions of Czech
Love, peace and vegan at the eight Loving Huts scattered food and tank Pilsner in a beer hall atmosphere. Go for
across Prague. The buffet style restaurant prepares fresh, something big and heavy here like the roast duck or
mainly Asian inspired cuisine. Better for a lunch stop, which goulash. Upstairs the seating is bright with lots of brass
is also when most locations are very busy; in fact you may beer pipes while the downstairs cellar is dark and brick-
be shocked at how many Czechs enjoy something not lined.QF‑7, V Kolkovně 8, MStaroměstská, tel. (+
based around fried meat.QH‑11, Londýnská 35, MIP 420) 224 81 97 01, www.vkolkovne.cz. Open 11:00
Pavlova, tel. (+ 420) 222 51 50 06, www.lovinghut.cz. - 24:00. (160 - 400 Kč). P­J­A­G­B­W
Open 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. V­­G
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 25
 Cafés

Enjoy your coffee on Cacao’s summer terrace

As part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, the city’s cafes CAFÉ LOUVRE

took their cue from Vienna, but under communism, Even with all the trendy hipster cafes available just about
the idea of a café as a meeting place dwindled everywhere in Prague now, there’s something enduring
dramatically. These days, coffee has a look and taste about the Louvre. The high-ceilinged bright dining room
which is often quite different from the past but there’s is often filled with local business folk, especially for lunch.
a few old timers like Louvre and Savoy still offering a There is a small outdoor seating area along with an
taste of old Prague. aquarium of amusing turtles. Located up a flight of stairs,
the cakes are typically worth the climb.QF‑9, Praha 1,
CACAO Národní 22, MNárodní třída, tel. (+ 420) 224 93 09
A Slovenian import, Cacao offers a really nice range of just 49/+420 724 05 40 55, www.cafelouvre.cz. Open 08:00
about everything. Coffee of course is great, but their ice - 23:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:30. (100 - 500Kč). P­H­A­
cream and cakes are something special too. Nice terrace V­G­K­W
near Náměstí republiky and overlooking the farmers
market; the interior is warm and comfy for winter.QG‑8, CAFÉ SAVOY
V Celnici 1031/4, MNáměstí republiky, tel. (+420) 777 Typically packed morning, noon and night, the Savoy’s
51 16 77, www.cacaoprague.cz. Open 08:30 - 22:30, pastries, lunch and wine selection keep a steady flow of
Fri 08:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 23:00. (110 - 149Kč). politicians and other high-flyers streaming through its
P­T­G­B­S­W doors. Be sure to look up at the gorgeous neo-Renaissance
ceiling and try any of the freshly made cakes - the display
CAFÉ IMPERIAL is an excellent photo op. Menu is a mix of Czech traditional
Lovely Art Nouveau grandeur for breakfast or a midday and classic French; weekend breakfast time is extremely
coffee break. Both the café and hotel have been restored popular.QD‑9, Praha 5, Vítězná 5, MAnděl, tel. (+ 420)
to their original beauty and the tile work is quite 257 31 15 62, www.ambi.cz. Open 08:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun
stunning (peak in the adjacent hotel lobby for more). 09:00 - 22:30. (140 - 700Kč). P­A­G­B­K­W
Very popular spot for lunch; Chef Zdeněk Pohlreich is
a well-known character in the Czech culinary world. EMA ESPRESSO BAR
Service isn’t always there, but overall wonderful for an Wow, fabulous. This is a place that takes their coffee
elegant café experience.QH‑7, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 15, seriously and we can seriously appreciate that. Light
MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 246 01 14 40, www. food, but a large cup of deliciousness is the reason you
cafeimperial.cz. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (130 - 400Kč). come here. The biggest drawback is that it pretty much
P­i­J­A­G­W is a bar – there’s a big long table down the middle and a
26 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Cafés
couple seats stuck in the window and by the stairs, but
it’s more of a takeaway place. EMA’s owners also do Café ICE CREAM
Lounge in Malá StranaQH‑7, Na Florenci 3, MNáměstí
republiky, tel. (+ 420) 730 156 933, www.prague. Czechs love ice cream. Like insanely. The country
coffee. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed isn’t one you would normally associated with the
Sun. J­G­W sweet treat, e.g. gelato in Italy. But as soon as the
temperature hits about 10 degrees and/or it’s a bright
FRIENDS COFFEE HOUSE and sunny day, Czechs of all ages are walking around
Large friendly space with good coffee, sandwiches happily licking cones.
and cakes. The best seat is in the middle atrium area –
practically garden seating year round. They have their Some cafes and bakeries around town will have a
own coffee roaster and food that is not fancy but fresh. ‘točená zmrzlina’ machine set up which dispenses
Plus their website address translates into ‘I love coffee’ usually two flavours (like vanilla and strawberry) and
and who can’t love that? Order at the counter and they one mixed (vanilla-strawberry swirl) of soft serve ice
will bring it to you. Convenient to the Wenceslas Square/ cream. These usually come in your choice of malá
New Town area.QF‑9, Praha 1, Palackého 7, MMůstek, (small) or velká (large). In ice cream shops with big bins,
tel. (+ 420) 272 04 96 65, www.ilovecoffee.cz. Open price will be by scoop in a basis cone. Many places have
09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (49 - 250Kč). waffle cones for an extra price.
O­A­G­B­S­W
The točená zmrzlina places are only in operation from
GRAND CAFÉ ORIENT about late spring to early autumn, but locals will not
(DŮM U ČERNÉ MATKY BOŽÍ) be deterred from having their ice cream. Every shop
Located in one of the best Cubist buildings in Prague, no matter how small will have a freezer full of single
architecture and design lovers will appreciate the Orient’s portion ice cream on sticks, with Pegasus and Mrož
Czech Cubist touches. From the light fixtures to the plates, being two of the favoured local brands.
there’s a touch of early 1920’s Czechoslovakia here – the
Orient was actually reconstructed using period photos ANGELATO
from the original cafe. When it’s warm, watch the tourists Probably the most popular ice cream spot in Prague,
stream by from their narrow balcony. The Orient does Angelato has a large space, but still a queue out the
breakfast and has a long crepe selection. Decent coffee. door on warm summer days. Angelato makes both fruit
QG‑8, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 19, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) sorbets and milk-based gelatos in a creative and large
224 22 42 40, www.grandcafeorient.cz. Open 09:00 - number of flavours. They also do monthly special and
22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (100 - 200Kč). P­i­J­ gelato flavours like parmesan, avocado and rice have
A­V­G­W been spotted on the menu. Super friendly staff, if you
just can’t decide, they’ll let you try little samples to help
IF CAFÉ you out. There is a smaller location near Můstek with
Bright space with a window to the bakers, IF Café is owned outdoor seating in the summer. Also at Praha 1, Rytiřská
by a well-known local pastry chef, Iveta Fabešová. Besides 27.QC‑9, Praha 1, Újezd 24, tel. (+ 420) 224 23 51 23,
watching the decorators at work (there are well-positioned www.angelato.eu. Open 11:00 - 22:00. T
stools for optimal drooling), the desserts are the reason to
come. Selection is large and changes regularly. Also IF Café OVOCNÝ SVĚTOZOR
II at Tylovo nám. 2, Praha 2, tel. (+420) 608 77 33 99, open A Prague institution, this ice cream shop/café is the
Mon - Sun 08:00 - 20:00.QH‑11, Praha 2, Belgická 30, tel. traditional favourite for Czechs of all ages. Located inside
(+ 420) 608 77 33 99, www.ivetafabesova.cz/info/9- the Světozor passageway off of Wenceslas Square, you’ll
if-cafe. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. (70 spot it instantly thanks to the near-constant queue.
- 200Kč). i­A­V­W There’s a walk-up spot for simple scoops, or a café which
also offers a pretty delectable range of cakes. Select your
KAFÍČKO CAFÉ favourite flavour and enjoy it in the adjacent Františkánská
The sign in their window says ‘world’s best coffee’ and zahrada rose garden.QPraha 1, Vodičkova 39. Open
that could be debated, but it is tasty and the tiny place 08:00 - 21:00. Sat 09:00 - 21:00. Sun 09:30 - 21:00.
oozes cosiness. Located right around the corner from
the massive Pallidum shopping centre, this place is PARLOR CAFES
surprisingly filled with locals, typically catching up with The hip Karlín neighbourhood is certainly not going to
friends. And unfortunately it is often filled; the seating resist the street draw of ice cream. And the fun factor is
capacity must be around 20 max. Beer, wine and cocktails here as well as they offer ice cream sandwiches with eight
are available as well as the coffee beans from around the cookie options and 12 different ice cream flavours to mix
world. Light on food.QG‑7, Praha 1, Maltézské nám. 15, and match. Coffee and smoothies plus wine and cocktails
tel. (+ 420) 724 15 17 95. Open 10:00 - 22:00. i­T­J­ at night.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
A­6­G­W
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 27
 Nightlife

Enjoy the views with a drink in Glass Bar at the Dancing House

Prague’s bar and club scene is as appropriately raucous as one in Warsaw now too.QF‑8, Praha 1, Týnská 19,
its infamy suggests. Prices and clientele veer widely from MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 224 81 51 22, www.
the tourist-filled Old Town haunts to the sometimes slightly barandbooks.cz. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00
seedy neighbourhood bars. You will find that beer is drunk - 04:00. Closed Sun. P­A
morning, noon and night, and that Czech beers are among
the best and cheapest in the world. Brands to look out BLUE LIGHT BAR
for include Pilsner Urquell, Gambrinus, Staropramen and A Malá Strana institution, you don’t typically get a seat in
Budweiser (Budvar). The average wage for bar staff is low, this tiny bar, but the older crowd is friendly and chill. Only
so please, after having your drinks and your fun, show some small beers, priced a bit high, but a long list of other spirits
appreciation with a decent tip. and well-priced cocktails. Website is amusingly crass.QC‑8,
Praha 1, Josefská 42/1, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257
53 31 26, www.bluelightbar.cz. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Sat,
BARS & PUBS Sun 19:00 - 03:00.
BACK DOORS
This space is part restaurant, part bar and part club in the BOMBAY COCKTAIL BAR
cellar of an old Smíchov house. Massive wooden furniture Casual, centrally located cocktail and dance bar, the scene
and forged iron work complement the brick walls and here is young and fun. It’s not a huge space, but you can
parquet floor of its historical setting. Good for their lunch dance pretty much wherever you want and in the summer
specials and fabulous for the night time change to music they expand with a garden area. Quality mixed drinks, their
bar with high quality audio system, where you can hear specialities include a Kir Royal, Cosmopolitan and Tequila
various styles of music from famous Czech DJs.QD‑12, Na Sunrise.QF‑7, Praha 1, Dlouhá 13, MStaroměstská, tel. (+
Bělidle 30/310, MAnděl, tel. (+ 420) 257 31 58 24, www. 420) 222 32 40 40, www.bombay-bar.cz/en. Open 19:00 -
backdoors.cz. Open Mon - Wed 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 04:00, Thu 19:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 06:00. P­A­B
01:00; Thu 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 02:00; Fri 11:00 - 15:00,
18:00 - 03:00; Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. A­E CAFFREY’S
Located smack on Old Town Square, you can’t miss this
BAR AND BOOKS friendly Irish bar. Popular for its Irish breakfast (both full and
An elegant evening of cocktails just off Old Town Square, small) Caffreys is also one of the best places in town to catch
Bar and Books is sleek with copper ceilings and book- nearly any sporting event (including GAA) you could imagine.
lined walls. Whisky and cigars are also on the menu Food prices are on the high side, but quality is good, especially
and cocktail prices are not that high. Live music on if you are longing for a Shepard’s pie or fish and chips with a
Wednesday nights, you can also enjoy all the James helping of mushy peas.QF‑8, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám.
Bond films screened without sound. This was the first 10, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 224 82 80 31, www.
European branch of the New York Bar and Books – there’s caffreys.cz. Open 09:00 - 02:00. P­A­B­K
28 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Nightlife
CLOUD 9
Sleek and sexy, this is where the good-looking people MICROBREWERIES
go to lounge with a designer cocktail. That may sound
unappealing, but Cloud 9 (located on the top floor of the JIHOMĚSTSKÝ PIVOVAR
Hilton Prague hotel) offers tasty, inventive cocktails, a nice If you are looking to experience some good beer,
small bites menu and really amazing Prague views. The in a completely different part of town, jump on the
terrace in the summer is especially inviting. DJs on Fridays metro all the way to Háje and discover the South City
and Saturdays.QI‑6, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1, MFlorenc, tel. Brewery. Three beers are brewed in-house and served
(+ 420) 224 84 29 99, www.cloud9.cz. Open 18:00 - on tap, all unpasteurized and unfiltered. The dearth
02:00. Closed Sun. J­A­E of decent pubs and restaurants in the area means the
place is usually packed. Even though it bills itself as a
GLASS BAR microbrewery/restaurant fusion, head out for the beer
With an outside viewing platform and nothing but and the atmosphere, not the food.QPodjavorinske
windows, the Glass Bar on top of the Dancing House offers 1602, MHáje, tel. (+ 420) 222 35 22 42, www.
spectacular photo opportunities. The prices for coffee, beer, jihomestskypivovar.cz. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00
wine and cocktails are a bit sky high too, but you are paying - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:30.
for the ambience.QE‑11, Praha 2, Jiráskovo náměstí
6, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. (+ 420) 737 282 879, www. NOVOMĚSTSKÝ PIVOVAR
galerietancicidum.cz/#!glass-bar/czk7. Open 09:00 - Massive, centrally-located brewery restaurant, the
24:00. pub’s signature brews are served up along with
traditional Czech cooking. Light and dark varieties of
J.J.MURPHY’S their Novoměstský ležák are available to accompany
Don’t worry, they also have Guinness. If you pine for the big platters of meat. Try one of their mixed platters
days when you could enjoy a pint, a good meal and your and to be really experimental go for one of their beer
favourite sporting event without screaming Englishmen tastings. One is with flavoured beer, the other includes
in dresses working on their 20th beer, then belly up to ‘beer sparkling wine.’ You can even book of tour of
this Irish bar. Watch live sport from one of the sofas in the the brewery and its cellars.QF‑10, Vodičkova 20,
attic lounge or have a proper breakfast with pudding or a MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 222 23 24 48/(+420) 602
real American burger on the ground floor.QC‑8, Tržiště 45 92 16, www.npivovar.cz. Open 10:00 - 23:30,
4, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 53 55 75, www. Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (160 - 500Kč).
bestirishbarprague.com. Open 10:00 - 01:00. A­K P­T­A­U­E­G­B

KOZIČKA PIVOVARSKÝ DŮM

Popular spot to start an Old Town night on the town, The aptly named Brewery House bends the Czech
Kozička has lots of funny spaces with lots of little brewing tradition to new and exotic heights (read:
tables. Packed with friends meeting up, squeeze banana beer). If you’d like to sample all of the brews
in and place your beer, wine or cocktail order. on offer without getting plastered, ask for the small
Also a restaurant, there’s a typical menu of Czech/ samples for only 20Kč each. This popular bar also
international cuisine. Kitchen often stays open a bit serves excellent Czech dishes including venison and
later on weekends, but after 22:00, ask if they are still its speciality For the Meat-Lovers which presents
cooking before sitting down.QF‑7, Praha 1, Kozí 1, every type of animal flesh conceivable. Service can
MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 224 81 83 08/(+420) be surly and food on the stale side.QF‑11, Lipová 15,
776 30 48 76, www.kozicka.cz. Open 16:00 - 04:00, MKarlovo nám., tel. (+ 420) 296 21 66 66, www.
Fri 17:00 - 05:30, Sat 18:00 - 05:30, Sun 19:00 - pivovarskydum.com. Open 11:00 - 23:30. Closed Sat,
03:00. P­A ­I Sun. (95 - 230Kč). P­A­G

PRAGUE BEER MUSEUM U FLEKŮ

Prague is famed for her cultural offerings, and here’s one Still one of the biggest tourist traps in town, and still
museum even non-art fans can appreciate. With most recommended, simply for their beer. Brewed on
pubs and restaurants offering only a couple beers from the spot since 1499, it is a dark well-done ale. The
the same producers, aficionados wanting to treat their interiors appear to date back to that period as well
taste buds can choose from 30 beers on tap at this Old and provide nice photo ops. Czech food is on the
Town ‘museum.’ Each beer is well-described and if you just menu, and does pair nicely with their brews. They also
can’t choose, order a tasting flight. There’s a souvenir shop host the occasional cabaret.QE‑10, Křemencova 11,
to document your cultural immersion. Also at Americká MNárodní třída, tel. (+ 420) 224 93 40 19/(+420)
43, Praha 2, tel. (+420) 775 99 46 98.QG‑7, Praha 1, 602 66 02 90, www.ufleku.cz. Open 10:00 - 23:00,
Dlouhá 46, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 732 33 Museum open Mon - Sat 10:00 - 16:00. (85 - 450Kč).
09 12, www.praguebeermuseum.com/en. Open 12:00 J­A­6­U­E­G­B­K­
- 03:00. J­B
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 29
 Nightlife
ROCKY O’REILLY’S
PIVO, PROSÍM - Photos of prestigious poets and pubs, Guinness on draught and
EXPERIENCING THE CZECH an ‘O’ in its name all meet the criteria for a classic Irish watering
NATIONAL DRINK hole. Other perks include hearty portions of international
food including a huge Irish breakfast served anytime, Sky
Sports broadcast on several TVs and wait staff that can easily
draw your attention away from the football.QG‑10, Praha 1,
Štěpánská 32, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 222 23 10 60, www.
rockyoreillys.cz. Open 10:00 - 02:00. P­A­K

T-ANKER
Czech microbrews sipped atop a funky shopping centre
with unbelievable Old Town views. In addition to a fabulous
rotating stock of about 9 different draught beers, T-Anker
also has a long selection of imported bottled beers. There
is a food menu with meat focused main courses as well
as small plates to accompany your beer. In the summer,
The Czech Republic has the highest per capita
they grill on the patio.QG‑7, Praha 1, náměstí Republiky
consumption of beer in the world. Because Czechs have
656/8, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 722 445 474,
to drink it so much in order to keep this prestigious title
www.t-anker.cz. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
(nearly 143 litres per person annually according to 2014
statistics), they need it to be damn good. And it is. Czech
beer is some of the best brewed brew in the world. BEER GARDENS
When we say “Czech beer,” what do we mean? Beer LETENSKÉ SADY BEER GARDEN
brewed here is bottom fermented and is made from One of the best, thanks to its fabulous views and city centre
water, barley, malt and hops. Believe it or not, it’s the location, Letná’s beer garden is always full of a wide range
water that has one of the biggest effects on how the of locals, visitors, young, old, dogs and more. There’s a white
beer tastes. Czech beer is brewed using only soft to trailer in which to purchase your beer in a plastic cup and
medium water. pay toilets nearby. Get there by walking up the steep steps
While records show the first brewery in the country from Čechův most (Tram 17) and heading right.QG‑6,
existed in 1118; Czech beer as we know it dates back Praha 7, Letná Park, MHradčanská, tel. (+ 420) 233 378
to more like 1842. That’s when a brewery in Plzeň 200, www.letenskyzamecek.cz/cz/restaurace/zahradni-
hired a German brewer who was experimenting with a restaurace. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00,
new fermentation method. He produced the first light Open from May to September:.
coloured beer, Pilsner, which was an immediate hit. It’s
still sold today as Pilsner Urquell. České Budějovice PRAŽAN BEER GARDEN
is another South Bohemia beer brewing town. Its Stromovka Park is a centrally located oasis of green,
signature brand Budweiser Budvar is also known the large enough to escape the crowds for some relaxing
world over. Another well-known brewery, this one in walks. Pražan offers the yummy, and not always easy
Prague, is Staropramen. Founded in 1871, it has been to find, Únětice beer in their shady space. Beer snacks
brewing beer in Prague ever since. accompany your drink. This is a more family focused beer
garden with a play area for the kids. Take tram 12 or 17 to
While the big breweries like those mentioned above Výstaviště Holešovice. Enter the park and walk down the
have seen more of their growth in recent years come main path till you see it on your right.QG‑3, Stromovka
from exports, craft brewers are doing surprisingly well Park, MVltavská, tel. (+ 420) 601 348 313, www.
here. Czechs are increasingly willing to experiment restaurantprazan.cz. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
and appreciate the opportunity to try brews from a
variety of microbreweries. There are some restaurants RIEGROVY SADY BEER GARDEN
and pubs, like Nota Bene or T-anker, which feature The young and cool flock here on hot summer nights and
a rotating line-up of craft beers from small brewers anytime a major sporting event is on, as in addition to lots
around the country. Cafes are often good places to try of picnic tables, they have a large projector screen. The huts
a beer not from one of the big brewers. Café Lounge here also sell 3 different types of beer, in a proper glass.
for example serves both the lager and ale types of Grilled food can be had as well. From the Jiřího z Poděbrad
Matuška. metro station, walk along Slavíkova then turn left onto
Pivo, prosím (beer please) is the typical drink order for Krkonošská. It’s at the top of the hill. Note that they will
most of the country. Most bars and restaurants will stay open later if the weather is good and there’s a good
serve beer from one brewery only; you’ll know it by the crowd in.QI‑10, Riegrovy sady, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel.
sign hanging outside. Cheers - Na zdraví! (+ 420) 222 717 247, www.restauraceriegrovysady.cz/
zahradky/?lang=en. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
30 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Nightlife
CLUBS ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
AKROPOLIS
Music fans will want to check out the Akropolis website to Let’s not beat around the bush, Prague is Sex City.
see what’s on before heading to Prague. The venue has an Indeed, for many people the presence of quasi-legal
excellent reputation for showing a great mix of Czech rock brothels, strip clubs and massage parlours is the
bands, jazz groups, contemporary dance and more. Regular primary reason for visiting the Czech capital. The city
DJs, the occasional festival, rotating art exhibitions – plus a has therefore over the years earnt itself something of
really cool café/bar makes Akropolis a wonderful place to check a reputation for being the stag night capital of Europe,
out in the Jiřího z Poděbrad neighbourhood of Prague 3.QJ‑9, a fact that not everyone is happy about. Do not be
Praha 3, Kubelíkova 27, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+ 420) surprised to see the words ‘No Stag Parties’ displayed
296 330 913/(+420) 296 330 990–91, www.palacakropolis. on the windows of bars, pubs and even the odd adult
cz. Open 16:00 - 04:00. Admission 30 - 400Kč. E­K­W entertainment establishment.
First off, a few legalities.
CROSS CLUB
One of Prague’s underground legends has emerged into legal While prostitution in the Czech Republic is legal,
luminescence as the cool kid on the block. The labyrinthine almost everything that surrounds the industry is not:
den has, despite its slightly out of the way location, become keeping a brothel, is not, for example, legal. Quite
a firm favourite. Jungle, drum ‘n base, house and chill out what constitutes a brothel is a moot point however,
have their own rooms and the music, whether DJ or live, has for the laws are quite deliberately ambiguous. As such,
to compete with some of the funkiest, most inventive and individual cities tend to take their own approach, and
ever-changing décor around.QI‑3, Plynární 23, MNádraží Prague’s has for many years been one of complete
Holešovice, tel. (+ 420) 736 53 50 53, www.crossclub.cz. tolerance. You will therefore be able to visit the city’s
Open 18:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 07:00. 6­E­B­K many ‘gentlemen’s’ or ‘relax’ clubs with impunity, at
least from local law enforcement. That is not to say that
DUPLEX there are not hazards, for there are many, and there are
Happening Wenceslas Square club, Duplex offers loud a couple of golden rules to follow to ensure you keep
music, crazy lights, four bars and two platforms. Located on your nose (if nothing else) clean.
the sixth and seventh floors, you’ll also be treated to great Never approach working girls in the street, nor respond
Prague views. DJs are a mix of Czech and international to any who may approach you. It is also not uncommon
guests.QG‑9, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 21, MMůstek, tel. (especially late at night on Wenceslas Square) to be
(+ 420) 732 22 11 11, www.duplex.cz. Open Wed, Thu, approached by men who will try and offer you girls,
Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. A­B­K and/or try and get you into clubs. Ignore them.
We list a number of clubs we happy to vouch for online
KARLOVY LÁZNĚ at iyp.me/adultprague. Now, while we can never be
Calling itself the biggest music club in Central Europe, this 100 per cent certain of anything, we do know that
5-level club on the banks of the Vltava River is populated these are all clubs which have been around for a very
by young, international partiers. Each floor features a long time and have a reputation as being legitimate,
different sound, so you can pick you fav or move around upstanding businesses offering all sorts of delights
for a more eclectic club going experience. Main floor is within the law. Stick to these and you will have a great
mainstream, next is dance music, followed by oldies. Next time in Prague. Note, however, that if you take a taxi to
up is hip hop and R’nB with a chill out floor at the top when any of these places, the driver may try to divert you to
you just can’t take anymore.QE‑9, Smetanovo nábreží another club - one which is paying him for bringing in
198, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 222 22 05 02, www. clients. Stick to your original destination.
karlovylazne.cz. Open 21:00 - 05:00. Admission 50Kč
(21:00-22:00). After 22:00 120Kč. We would also point out that some clubs are quite
small, and get very busy at the weekend: phone ahead
LUCERNA MUSIC BAR to reserve and make sure that they can accommodate
Great place to see what’s brewing on the Czech music you. Twelve lads turning up half-drunk in identical
scene, this music bar is located in the basement of the t-shirts at three in the morning are likely to be
lovely Lucerna passage way. A nice mix of foreign bands disappointed.
and already popular or up-and-coming Czech ones, the Finally, wherever you go, use your common sense and
atmosphere is fairly intimate with a unique round stage. watch what you are spending. Make sure you know
On non-event nights, you can pop down for a drink at the the price of everything - including (indeed, especially)
bar. If there’s no event on the weekends, Lucerna is closed. drinks - before taking part in any adult activities and
QG‑9, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 224 where possible try to deal only in cash. The genuine
21 71 08, www.musicbar.cz. Open 09:30 - 19:00. Closed horror stories you hear about across Europe involve
Sat, Sun, On the day of event open untill the end of the credit card fraud, so play safe.
event. Admission 100 - 1000Kč. P­E
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 31
 Essential Prague

Prague’s breathtaking Charles Bridge

The essentials of Prague - if you see nothing else, do not JEWISH PRAGUE
miss these sights. Obviously in this city that has been a Prague’s Jewish community was one of the oldest in
destination for hundreds of years, there is much to see Europe, and rich in history, legend and tragedy. Here, the
and do, and one of the most enjoyable aspects is just story goes, Rabbi Loew created the Golem nearly half a
wandering around. Don’t forget to look up as the gilded millennium ago. You can read more about Jewish Prague
spires are rightfully what Prague is renowned for. on page ??

CHARLES BRIDGE MUNICIPAL HOUSE (OBECNÍ DŮM)

Karlův most joins Staré Město (Old Town) and the Malá The magnificent Obecní Dům building holds two
Strana (Little Quarter) and is one of the world’s most restaurants, a super café, an American bar, a gallery, shop
beautiful bridges. The bridge was built in 1357, but the and classical music venue. Built between 1905 and 1910
figures of saints were added during the 17th century. They in the architecturally stunning Art Nouveau style, the
symbolise the confidence of the Catholic Austrian’s triumph Municipal House has been painstakingly restored to its
over the Protestant Hussites. The bridge is thronged all day former glory. It was here that the Czechoslovakian state
with tourists, while at night it offers wonderful views of the was signed into being on October 28, 1918. It was also here
illuminated castle and Old Town. Go at dawn to be alone in 1989 that communist bureaucrats and revolution leaders
and witness the saints emerging from the mist.QD‑8, of the Civic Forum discussed the velvet transfer of power
Karlův most, MStaroměstská. and the state’s transformation to democracy.QG‑8, nám.
Republiky 5, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 222 00 21
CHURCH OF MOTHER OF GOD BEFORE TÝN 01, www.obecnidum.cz/en. Guided tours 290/240Kč,
(KOSTEL MATKY BOŽÍ PŘED TÝNEM) children up to 10 free.
The domineering sight on Prague’s Old Town Square, the
Týn Church is one of the most impressive gothic buildings NATIONAL THEATRE (NÁRODNÍ DIVADLO)
remaining in Prague. The interior is a showpiece to gothic, This lavish neo-Renaissance building on the bank of the
renaissance and early baroque religious works. Two Vltava, with its golden crown of chariot-driving women,
especially interesting items are the organ, which is the is Prague’s National Theatre. The building was completed
oldest in Prague and the tomb of astronomer Tycho Brahe. in 1881 and was almost immediately destroyed by fire. It
QF‑8, Staroměstské náměstí 604, MStaroměstská, tel. reopened in 1883. See Events for the current programme.
(+ 420) 222 31 81 86, www.tyn.cz. Open 10:00 - 13:00 QE‑9, Národní 2, MNárodní třída, tel. (+ 420) 224 90 14
and 15:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon. 48, www.narodni-divadlo.cz/en. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat,
Admission free. (Recommended donation 25Kč). Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
32 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Essential Prague
OLD TOWN SQUARE (STAROMĚSTSKÉ NÁMĚSTÍ) VYŠEHRAD
The indisputable heart of Prague. This vast open space The rocky cliff-top boasts Prague’s second castle. In the
is flanked by a pleasing blend of carefully restored hearts and minds of many Czechs, Vyšehrad symbolises
architectural styles: Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and neo- the birth of the Czech nation and is shrouded in legend
styles. The square is notable for its constant hum of activity, and myth. This is apparently the spot where Princess
day and night, and a long history as centre stage for so Libuše stood and predicted the rise of a great city. Literally
many of the city’s defining moments, from the execution of translated as ‘high castle’, it was probably founded in the
preacher J. Želivský in 1422, to the attacks on Soviet tanks middle of the 10th century. In 972 Prince Boleslav II built
with Molotov cocktails in 1968. Towering above the square, the royal mint here, and in 1085 Vratislav II selected it as
half-hidden behind a row of houses, is the fairy-turreted his residence. Over the following centuries successive
Týn Church. The centrepiece of the square is a memorial kings remodelled the palace and fortress, but moved
to Jan Hus. It was draped in swastikas by the Nazis and in their permanent home across the river. Within the fortress
black cloth to mourn the passing of the Prague Spring. confines is the national cemetery (Vyšehradský hřbitov),
QF‑8, MStaroměstská. which from the 1870s became the final resting place of
many of the most famous Czech writers and composers,
PRAGUE CASTLE including Jan Neruda, Bedřich Smetana and Antonín
The largest collection of wonders in the city, Prague castle Dvořák.QF‑14, V Pevnosti 159/5b., MVyšehrad, tel. (+
is an amalgamation of architecture from different periods. 420) 241 41 03 48/(+420) 241 41 02 47. Open 09:30 -
From the almost pastoral serenity of St. George’s Basilica, 17:30, In summer open until 18:00.
to the awe-inspiring Gothic power of St. Vitus Cathedral,
the castle has attractions for all - history and architecture WENCESLAS SQUARE (VÁCLAVSKÉ NÁMĚSTÍ­)
plus marching soldiers and entertainment. You can read Václavské náměstí­is actually a boulevard running down
more about Prague Castle on page ??QC‑7, Pražský hrad, from the National Museum and the equestrian statue of
MHradčanská, tel. (+ 420) 224 372 423, www.hrad.cz/ Saint Wenceslas to Můstek, formerly the site of of a city
en. Open 06:00 - 22:00. gate and drawbridge. This is where crowds traditionally
come to demonstrate against their incompetent rulers, and
STRAHOV MONASTERY this was where, in 1989, thousands gathered to shake their
The Strahov Monastery has stood near the castle since keys in celebration of the death of the Communist Party.
1140. Today, you can visit two of this Romanesque Rows of shops, hotels (note the Art Nouveau glory of Hotel
monastery’s highlights: the Strahov Library and the Picture Europa) and nightclubs flank the pavements, and by night
Gallery. Containing about 1500 pieces of artwork, the it can get a bit sleasy. Thankfully, there are plans to rid the
Picture Gallery has items dating from the 1300s through square of cars, bury the highway in front of the museum
to the 19th century. The Library is a stunner, divided into in a tunnel and have tram N°11 make a come-back.QG‑9,
the Theological Hall and Philosophical Hall, they are packed Praha 1, Václavské nám., MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 221 714
with texts, frescos and 17th century globes. Unfortunately, 714, www.praguecitytourism.cz/en.
you can’t enter the rooms. Tram 22 to Pohořelec.QA‑8,
Strahovské nádvoří 1, tel. (+ 420) 233 10 77 04, www.
strahovskyklaster.cz/en. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission
60/40Kč. J

TOWN HALL & ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK

(STAROMĚSTSKÁ RADNICE)
The 14th century Town Hall complex features a tower with
an astronomical clock, added in the 15th century. Every
hour on the hour Jesus and his disciples lead a pageant
that includes the allegorical figures of Death, the Turk, the
Miser, the Fool and the Rooster. It sounds more impressive
than it actually is, but it’s still worth a look. The climb or
lift up the tower is rewarded by the stunning views.QF‑8,
Staroměstské nám. 1/3, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420)
775 400 052, www.staromestskaradnicepraha.cz/en.
Open 09:00 - 22:00, Mon 11:00 - 22:00, Historical halls
and underground close at 18:00. Admission 130/80Kč.
Family ticket 280Kč.

Full contents online:

prague.inyourpocket.com
Wenceslas Square

facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 33

 Prague Castle

A visit to Prague Castle is a day-trip in itself

The defining monument on Prague’s picturesque skyline, Already in the 10th century, Prague Castle was the
Prague Castle today is the seat of the president and representative governing site. Here you had the seat of the
an important historical and cultural testament to the head of state, princes and later kings as well as the Prague
country. bishop. The first convent in Bohemia was also founded
on the grounds of Prague Castle, built for an order of
GETTING THERE Benedictine nuns next to St. George’s.
There are four ways to approach the castle. By far the
best way is to take tram N°22 to the (A-7) Pohořelec The towering St. Vitus is really what you are viewing when
stop, where you start with breathtaking views of Prague you gaze at Prague Castle from down below. Built on the
from Strahov Monastery; then walk down through the site of the original rotunda, it was the main castle church
beautiful Hradčanská district along Loretánská towards beginning in the 11th century. Relics of Bohemia’s patron
the main castle entrance on Hradčanské náměstí. You can saints were kept here including St. Vitus, St. Wenceslas and
skip the Hradčanská walk by getting off the tram earlier, St. Adalbert.
at the (C-7) Pražský hrad stop, from where you enter the
second courtyard. Alternatively, walk up (C-8) Nerudova As with most of the rest of Prague, the Castle area
and the steep hill from Malostranské náměstí. The worst flourished under King and later Emperor Charles IV in the
approach is up the (C-7) Staré zámecké schody steps near middle of the 14th century. This was when it first became
Malostranská metro station; these are best kept for the an imperial residence as the seat of the ruler of the Holy
way down. Roman Empire. The royal palace was magnificently rebuilt
and the fortifications strengthened. Building began on the
THE CASTLE Gothic church of St. Vitus, modelled after French cathedrals.
Its current status dates way back and the complex in some
form has experienced nearly all events of importance Although the Castle’s prosperity continued during the reign
throughout the centuries. Research dates the founding of Charles’s son, Wenceslas IV, the Hussite wars in the 15th
to around the year 880 by Prince Bořivoj. This medieval century saw the Castle go uninhabited with its buildings and
structure was more of a fort with a moat and clay and fortifications falling into disrepair. Towards the end of the
stone ramparts. The Church of Virgin Mary was the first century, new rule brought a revamping of the Castle with the
house of worship here with churches dedicated to St. Powder Tower, New White Tower and Daliborka built on the
George and St. Vitus coming along in the first half of the property’s northern side. This is also when the royal palace
10th century. was rebuilt and the fabulous Vladislav Hall added.
34 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Prague Castle
When the Habsburgs moved in, they brought a renaissance
flair to the place. Garden lovers, this is when the Royal TICKET PRICES
Garden was designed and along with the Summer Palace,
the Ball Game Hall, a shooting range and the Lion’s Court. Prague Castle – Circuit A
St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, The Story of Prague
After Charles IV, Rudolph II was probably the Castle’s most Castle exhibition, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane
influential resident. During his rule in the second half of the with Daliborka Tower, Powder Tower
16th century, the emperor settled permanently here and began
to turn it into a grand centre of his empire. He is responsible for Prague Castle – Circuit B
the northern wing of the palace (today home to the Spanish St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George’s
Hall), built specifically for his artistic and scientific collections. Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower

The last great rebuilding of the Castle was carried out in Prague Castle – Circuit C
the second half of the 18th century, however by that time ‘The Treasury of St. Vitus Cathedral’ exhibition, Prague
Prague had lost its European dominance to Vienna and was Castle Picture Gallery
a pretty insubstantial town. Emperor Ferdinand V chose
Prague Castle as his home in 1848 and had the Chapel of The Story of Prague Castle exhibition
the Holy Cross rebuilt. The Spanish Hall and the Rudolph The Treasury of St. Vitus Cathedral’ exhibition
Gallery also got a makeover. There were also calls to finally Prague Castle Picture Gallery
finish St. Vitus, not by Ferdinand though but by the patriotic Powder Tower – Castle Guard exhibition
Union for Completing the Cathedral of St. Vitus. Despite Great South Tower with a View Gallery
their efforts, the Cathedral wasn’t completed until 1929. Ticket type Normal Reduced Family

After the declaration of an independent Czechoslovak Prague Castle - Circuit A 350Kč 175Kč 700Kč
Republic in 1918, Prague Castle again became the seat of Prague Castle - Circuit B 250Kč 125Kč 500Kč
the head of state. Under communism, many of the palaces
were closed to the public, operating as various government Prague Castle - Circuit C 350Kč 175Kč 700Kč
institutions. This changed after 1989. The Story of Prague Castle 140Kč 70Kč 280Kč

Prague Castle Picture Gallery 100Kč 50Kč 200Kč

Still today, Prague Castle is of great importance to the city
and country as a whole. The Crown Jewels are kept here, as Powder Tower 70Kč 40Kč 140Kč
are the relics of Bohemian kings, Christian relics, art treasures
Treasury of St. Vitus Cathedral 300Kč 150Kč 600Kč
and historical documents. At the same time, significant
events of national importance are still held at Prague Castle. Great South Tower 150Kč n/a n/a
The complex is truly a bridge from the past to the present.
Reduced tickets available for children aged 6-16, full-
C-7, Prague Castle, tel. (+420) 224 372 423, www. time students and over-65s. Family tickets are valid for
hrad.cz/en. Open from 06:00 - 22:00 but the historical up to 2 adults and up to 5 children under 16. Children
buildings only from 09:00 - 17:00 (09:00 - 16:00 Nov- under the age of 6 free. Tickets are valid for two days
Mar). (the day of the purchase and the following day). Tickets
are available in Prague Castle Information points in
ARCHBISHOP’S PALACE the second and third courtyards; at the Prague Castle
(ARCIBISKUPSKÝ PALÁC) Picture Gallery, in the Old Royal Palace and at two ticket
The early Renaissance Archbishop’s Palace is not open to offices in Golden Lane.
the public, but if you look carefully at the heraldic device
on the front of the building you can spot different hats
according to the rank of the church official. For instance,
the archbishop is represented by a green hat with ten
tassels, and the bishops are those with green hats and five
tassels. Note that the Archbishop’s Palace is inaccessible for
tourists.QB‑7, Hradčanské nám. 16, www.hrad.cz/en.

DALIBORKA TOWER
Built in 1496 and used as a prison till the end of 18th century,
the tower stands on your left as you exit the Golden Lane. It
is so named for its first prisoner, Dalibor of Kozojedy, whose
story was told by Smetana in his 1868 opera Dalibor. The
underground cell is truly terrifying.QC‑7, Prague Castle,
tel. (+ 420) 224 373 584,, www.hrad.cz/en. The First Courtyard

facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 35

 Prague Castle
was the king’s palace. The magnificent Vladislav Hall was
used for banquets, councils, coronations and even jousting.
All presidents have been sworn in here, and this building
was where the 1618 defenestration took place. The palace
contains The Story of Prague Castle exhibition. Don’t
forget to have a look at the Rampart Gardens below.QC‑7,
Prague Castle, www.hrad.cz/en.

PICTURE GALLERY AT PRAGUE CASTLE

Launched by Emperor Rudolf II, an intensive collector of art
from artists across the Holy Roman Empire, the collection
once amounted to 3000 pieces. The ensuing years saw
much of Rudolf’s collection dispersed throughout the
continent. Today, European paintings from the 15th-18th
centuries are on display, a fraction of what was Rudolf’s
Golden Lane and boosted by additional purchases through the years.
Highlights include Titian’s The Toilet of a Young Lady and
FIRST COURTYARD Rubens’ The Assembly of the Olympic Gods.QC‑7, Prague
Pause at the castle gates to admire the soldiers’ uniforms Castle, www.hrad.cz/en.
(designed by the wardrobe designer of the film Amadeus),
and hopefully see the changing of the guard. Then move POWDER TOWER (MIHULKA)
into the courtyard flanking the presidential rooms, which Originally built as a cannon tower, the Powder Tower
are not open to the public. These are numerous and unfortunately never got to showcase its prowess. It was
include the Spanish Hall, once the venue for meetings of put to use as the home of Tomáš Jaroš, best known for
the Czechoslovak Communist Party. As you walk through designing the Singing Fountain located in the Royal
the archway, the steps on your right are where many of the Gardens. The tower was also used as an alchemist’s
official greetings are made to visiting heads of state.QC‑7, workshop during Rudolf II’s reign and as a storage for
Prague Castle, www.hrad.cz/en. gunpowder, hence its common name. Visiting today, you
can see an exhibition on the Castle Guard.QC‑7, Prague
GOLDEN LANE (ZLATÁ ULIČKA) Castle, www.hrad.cz/en.
The phrase ‘picturesque street’ might have been invented
to describe this tiny cobbled lane with its miniature ROYAL GARDENS & STAG MOAT
workers’ cottages. After a lengthy reconstruction, the Lane (KRÁLOVSKÁ ZAHRADA)
reopened to feature displays on how past residents of the North of the castle walls are a succession of orderly and
street used to live. A few of the souvenir shops do remain. manicured gardens. They were first laid out in 1534 and are
It was on this street, or so legend has it, that 16th-century home to the Míčovna or Ball Game Hall, the most ornate
alchemists laboured to discover the Philosopher’s Stone sports centre we’ve ever seen. Further along the eastern
to make gold from lead. Franz Kafka spent evenings at his edge of the castle area you can find the Renaissance
sister’s house, N°22.QC‑7, Prague Castle, www.hrad.cz/ summer palace (Královský letohrádek), where Europe’s
en. first tulips, a present from Turkey, were cultivated. The views
over the castle and city are great from here.
HRADČANY The Stag Moat (Jelení příkop) below the ramparts of the
The area known as Hradčany is actually all the buildings on castle was reopened to the general public by President
the top of the hill. The first buildings date from around the Vaclav Havel. Despite the name there hasn’t been a stag
year 880, but the castle’s golden age came in the middle here since ravenous soldiers gobbled up the last of them
of the 14th century when it was imperial residence to by the 17th century. The walk, which in parts can be more
Emperor Charles IV. He rebuilt the royal palace and had of a clamber, is worth it for the whole new view of the
all the fortifications strengthened. More recently former castle from the gardens. It also takes you past tennis courts,
president Havel took a personal interest in restoration enjoyed by castle employees, and through a beautifully
work at the castle. He is also responsible for designing designed and lit tunnel.
the lighting, which makes the castle look so beautiful The gardens on the southern side of the castle can be
at night. What else could you expect from a man of the entered via steps to the right of the main castle gate. The
theatre?QC‑7, MHradčanská, tel. (+ 420) 224 372 423, main garden on the southern side is the ramparts garden
www.hrad.cz/en. (Zahrada Na Valech), which overlooks Malá Strana. The
Rampart Gardens are bordered to the west by the Paradise
OLD ROYAL PALACE (STARÝ KRÁLOVSKÝ PALÁC) Garden (Rajská zahrada) and on the south to the Hartig
One of the oldest and most impressive parts of the castle, Garden (Hartigovská zahrada), which surrounds the
the Old Royal Palace dates from 1135 and was the seat of Music Pavilion (Hudební pavilon). In the 1920s and 30s the
Bohemian princes. From the 13th to the 16th century it Rampart Gardens were redesigned by Slovenian architect
36 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Prague Castle
Josip Plečnik. Unfortunately, his work was only seen for a ST. GEORGE’S BASILICA
brief time before they were closed to the spying masses, (BAZILIKA SVATÉHO JIŘÍ)
and again, Havel insisted that they be reopened.QC‑6, The basilica is the Romanesque church lurking behind
Prague Castle, www.hrad.cz/en. Open 10:00-18:00. a Baroque facade in the courtyard behind St. Vitus. Now
Closed from November-March. deconsecrated, it serves as a concert hall. In the chapel on
the right of the presbytery is the tomb of St. Ludmila, the first
SALM PALACE (SALMOVSKÝ PALÁC) Czech saint.QC‑7, Prague Castle, www.hrad.cz/en.
This large classicist building sits just outside the main
entrance to Prague Castle on Hradčanské náměstí. Its ST. VITUS CATHEDRAL
current look is courtesy of a radical reconstruction of (KATEDRÁLA SVATÉHO VÍTA)
older residences from 1800-1811. During communism Moving into the third courtyard of the castle you’ll face one
it was used by the foreign services. The National Gallery of Europe’s great Gothic cathedrals. St. Vitus is the spiritual
holds a permanent exhibition of 19th century art from heart of the nation as the mausoleum of Bohemian kings
neo-Classicism to Romanticism. Entry is not included and the city’s greatest landmark. Work on the present
with a Prague Castle ticket.QB‑7, Hradčanské nám. cathedral was started in 1344 but it wasn’t consecrated
185/2, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 233 081 730, until 1929. Check out Mucha’s stained glass window
www.ngprague.cz. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. and the door with seven locks leading to the crown
Admission 300/150Kč. Note that this is not included in jewels. Don’t miss the beautiful mosaic depicting the
the Prague Castle ticket. Last Judgement of Christ on the exterior of the cathedral.
The mosaic is 84 square metres and was created in 1371.
SCHWARZENBERG PALACE In nice weather, test your legs with a climb of 287 steps
(SCHWARZENBERSKÝ PALÁC) to the top of St Vitus’ south tower. Here you can become
The most distinctive and largest of the buildings on the acquainted with Zikmund, the biggest bell in the country.
cobbled square sweeping into the castle is this palace QC‑7, Prague Castle, MMalostranská, www.hrad.cz/
with decorated bricks - are they flat? Built between 1545 en. Open 09.00 - 17.00, Open Mon-Sat 09:00-17:00, Sun
-1563, the building is run by the National Gallery and 12:00-17:00. Last entrance at 16:40. Great South Tower
houses a permanent exhibition on Baroque in Bohemia. open 10.00 – 18.00. Last entrance at 17.30.
QB‑7, Hradčanské nám. 2, www.ngprague.cz/en.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300/150Kč. TREASURY OF ST. VITUS CATHEDRAL
Note that this is not included in the Prague Castle One of the newer permanent exhibitions at Prague
ticket. Castle, the Treasury is the largest in the country and one
of the most significant church treasuries in Central Europe.
SECOND COURTYARD Highlights include a gold coronation cross crafted during
Reconstructed by Empress Maria Theresa, this courtyard the time of Charles IV; reliquary busts of the Saints Vitus,
acts as an intersection point for two of the entrances into Wenceslas and Adalbert, who are not only the cathedral’s
the castle. You can exit under the archway to reach the Stag principal patron saints but also the historical protectors of
Moat, Royal Gardens and tram N°22.QC‑7, Prague Castle, the Kingdom of Bohemia; a diamond-studded monstrance
MMalostranská, www.hrad.cz/en. from the baroque era and probably the most bizarre item, a
relic of the arm of Saint Vitus, acquired by Prince Wenceslas
SOUTH GARDENS in 929 from Henry I, Duke of Saxony. The exhibition is a
Also referred to as the Palace Gardens, these are actually fascinating journey through the history of spiritual wealth
three gardens built on the remains of the the bulwarks on amassed in the region.QC‑7, Prague Castle, www.hrad.
the south side of the castle. As such they are a set of steeply cz/en. Open 10.00 – 18.00. Last entrance at 17.30.
terraced gardens leading up to the castle. The steep climb
up to the castle is rewarded by fitness, some beautiful
landscaping and stunning views of the city.QC‑7,
Valdštejnská 12-14, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257
214 817, www.hrad.cz/en. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed
from November-March.

STERNBERG PALACE (ŠTERNBERSKÝ PALÁC)

Sharing an entrance with the Archbishop’s Palace is the
Šternberský palác from 1698. It’s part of the National
Gallery and home to their collection of Old Masters,
including Rubens and Rembrandt.QB‑7, Hradčanské
nám. 15, tel. (+ 420) 233 350 068, www.ngprague.cz.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300/150Kč.
Note that this is not included in the Prague Castle
ticket. St. Vitus Cathedral

facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 37

 Sightseeing

The Town Hall Astronomical Clock

BREWERY TOURS CHURCHES

STAROPRAMEN BREWERY BETHLEHEM CHAPEL
Hour-long tours of one of Prague’s most famous brews are From 1402 to 1412, Jan Hus preached at the Bethlehem
available daily. It’s a 50 minute interactive walk through Chapel, hence it’s significance for non-Catholics, but in
the beer’s history, including how the beer came to be, 1622, the Jesuits took control of the chapel and Catholic
the brewing and bottling process and its connection to mass became the service of the day. Then in 1786 it was
Prague. The pub in the brewery is definitely worth a stop levelled, only to be rebuilt (somewhat strangely) by the
for the sheer freshness of the beer.QD‑13, Pivovarská communists, who had preserved its architectural plans in
9, MAnděl, tel. (+ 420) 273 13 25 89, www.center. 1950. Apparently, they were keen to exploit the chapel’s
staropramen.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission symbolism as an historic emblem of Czech national pride.
199/169Kč. Children 99Kč. Children up to 6 years free. QE‑9, Betlémské nám. 255/4, MStaroměstská, tel. (+
Family ticket (2 adults and 2 children up to 12 years of 420) 224 24 85 95/(+420) 222 22 10 30. Open 10:00 -
age) 449Kč,. 18:00. J

BŘEVNOV MONASTERY
CASTLES & PALACES (BENEDICTINE ARCHABBEY)
KLEMENTINUM Established in 992-993 by the Bishop of Prague, Vojtěch,
The Klementinum offers a little something for everyone: and the Bohemian Prince, Boleslav II, Břevnov Monastery
Beautiful views from the astronomical tower; baroque is the oldest Benedictine monastery in the Czech
architecture in the library hall and classical musical Republic. The former wooden monastery underwent
concerts in the Mirror Chapel. The building dates back Roman then Gothic renovation. During the Hussite wars
to 1232 and is one of the largest building complexes it was burned down, but 200 years later, it was crafted
in Europe. It can only be seen via a guided tour which into its present Baroque form. The large monastery
includes visiting the baroque library, meridian hall complex contains the Basilica of St. Markety, gardens
and the astronomical tower. You can also see a copy of and a Romanesque crypt. Guided tours are available on
the Vyšehrad Codex, a Latin coronation gospel book, weekends and the gardens are free to visit daily. There
considered the most important and valuable manuscript is also a brewery on site and restaurant serving the
in Bohemia.QE‑8, Praha 1, Karlova 1, MStaroměstská, monastery’s beer and good Czech food. Tram 22, 25 to
tel. (+420) 733 129 252, www.klementinum.com. Open Břevnovský klášter.QMarkétská 1, tel. (+ 420) 220 40
10:00 - 18:00. 61 11. Open 10:00 - 14:00.
38 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Sightseeing
LORETA
One of the country’s most famous places of pilgrimage, TOURIST INFORMATION
this chapel is just a quick walk from the main entrance to
the castle. Built between 1626-1720, this Baroque building
contains, among other icons and objects, a painting of a
bearded lady, ornate friezes, bejewelled icons and a high
quota of chubby-cheeked cherubs. The small museum also
houses a collection of diamond ostensories. Within the
main chapel there is the brickwork supposedly from the
original Loreto in Italy which was flown over from Italy by
some well-meaning angels. Blasphemers take note - the
split in the wall was supposedly caused by a thunderbolt
fired off at one of your kind.QA‑7, Lorentánské nám. 7,
www.loreta.cz. Open 09:00 - 17:00, 09:30 - 16:00 (Nov-
Mar). Admission 150/80Kč, Family 310Kč, Students
Czech Tourism Office
110Kč, Children under 6 free.
CZECH TOURISM
ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH Everything you want to know about travelling through
Most people only admire this Baroque pile from the outside the Czech Republic, including destinations, events,
which is a shame, the interiors are even lovelier. Began in ideas and more. Most everything you want to know
1673, it would be nearly another 80 years until the Jesuits can be found on their website, but for a personal touch,
completed it. Inside, take note of the copper statue of St. visit them in the Old Town square.QF‑8, Staroměstské
Nicholas above the gold coated altar; the two statues below nám. 5, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 224 861 476,
him are of St. Ignatius Loyola and St. Francis Xavier. The ceiling www.czechtourism.com/. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat,
fresco depicts the apotheosis of St. Nicholas. Also of interest is Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
the organ, which has 2500 pipes and 44 registers, and it was
these very ivories that Mozart tinkled on his visit to Prague. PRAGUE CITY TOURISM
Organ concerts are held regularly.QC‑8, Malostranské nám. This excellent official tourist information centre
38, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 53 42 15, www. provides vocal and written information in various
stnicholas.cz/en. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 150Kč. languages from helpful and knowledgeable staff,
plus tickets, excursions, and accommodation.QF‑8,
Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 1, (Old Town Hall),
MONUMENTS MStaroměstské, www.praguecitytourism.cz/en.
VICTIMS OF COMMUNISM MEMORIAL Open 09:00 - 19:00.
Near the funicular railway station and opposite the Újezd
tram stop, there is a controversial memorial to the victims PRAGUE CITY TOURISM
of communism. A group of statues by Olbram Zoubek QVáclavské náměstí, www.praguecitytourism.cz/
emerge into totality as they walk, or are at various stages en. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
of destruction, depending how you look at it. Why are
they controversial? Other artists say they are kitschy, while PRAGUE CITY TOURISM - AIRPORT
feminists are angry because all the figures are male and QSchengenská, www.praguecitytourism.cz/en.
they (quite rightly) claim women were persecuted under Open 08:00 - 20:00.
the communists regime too. The memorial was damaged
by two bomb attacks in late 2003.QC‑9, Praha 1, Újezd PRAGUE CITY TOURISM - NA MŮSTKU
tram stop, MMalostranská, www.virtualni.praha.eu/ QRytířská 12, www.praguecitytourism.cz/en. Open
night/memorial-to-the-victims-of-communism.html. 09:00 - 19:00.

MUSEUMS
CHARLES BRIDGE MUSEUM
This museum, opened to coincide with the 650th
anniversary of the building of Charles Bridge in 1357 (the
clever number logo is no coincidence, 135797531. The first
stone was laid at 05:31 on 9 July). English texts are available
to explain the unique Knights of the Red Cross hospital
location, their church and crypt, various bridges; an arch
and pillar of the even older (1158 - 1172) Judit Bridge, and
others in the region, construction techniques, etc. Charles
Bridge, with its statues and history, is the focus but there Tourism Office on Old Town Square

facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 39

 Sightseeing
is so much more. Fascinating.QE‑8, Praha 1, Křižovnické
THE STATUES nám. 3, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 776 776 779, www.
OF CHARLES BRIDGE muzeumkarlovamostu.cz. Open 10:00 - 20:00. October -
April 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 150/70Kč. Family 320Kč.
The city of Prague owes a lot of Charles IV – it’s easy
to tell by all the “Charles” whatevers dotted around CITY MUSEUM
town (Charles University, Charles Square, etc.) But the (MUZEUM HLAVNÍHO MĚSTA PRAHY)
most well-known namesake is definitely his Bridge. This homage to the city of a hundred spires includes facts and
Dominated by a tower at each end, as well as 30 relics from prehistoric, Mediaeval and Middle Age times plus
Baroque-style statues, the Bridge is the ultimate photo about five exhibitions throughout the year dealing with some
op, tourist stroll in Prague. Visit during the day, and you aspect of Prague’s history. The highlight here is the Langweil
are surrounded by musicians, artists and craftsman. model, a gigantic model of the entire city at the beginning
Stay up late and cross it at night though – it’s a special of the 19th century. Handmade out of cardboard, it took 11
experience you won’t soon forget. years to construct.QI‑7, Na Poříčí 52, tel. (+ 420) 224 81
The statues were erected mostly between 1683 and 67 72/+420 221 709 674, www.muzeumprahy.cz. Open
1714, the most prominent sculptors of the day took part 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 120/30Kč. J­A
– including Matthais Braun and Ferdinand Maxmilian.
Unfortunately, the statues you see today aren’t the originals. DOX CENTRE FOR CONTEMPORARY ART
Back in the 1960’s they were taken down and replaced – Probably one of the best contemporary art museums in
the originals now live out their retirement at the National central Europe, Dox offers thought provoking exhibitions in
Museum. Following is a list of the statues in order if you are a beautiful, sprawling space. The building itself is amazing –
travelling from the Old Town side to Malá Strana. a mix of old metal factory and new build right in the heart
of industrial Holešovice. Contemporary art from around the
STATUES ON THE SOUTH SIDE: world is presented in the often group exhibitions, with Czech
St. Ivo – the patron saint of lawyers contemporary artists alongside. Art fans should not miss this
Sts. Barbara, Margaret and Elizabeth one.QJ‑3, Poupětova 1, MHolešovice, tel. (+ 420) 295 568
Statue of the lamenting of Christ 111/+420 295 568 123, www.doxprague.org. Open 10:00
St. Joseph – the original was destroyed by cannon fire - 18:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 11.00 - 19.00. Closed Tue, Ticket office
during the 1848 revolution. closes 30 minutes before closing. Admissions 180/90Kč.
St. Francis Xavier Children 7-15 years 60Kč. Children under 6 free.
St. Christopher
St. Francis Borgia KAMPA MUSEUM
St. Ludmila – St. Wenceslas’ grandmother Located on the west bank of the Vltava in the shadow of Prague
St. Francis of Assisi Castle, the museum has on display three major permanent
Sts. Vincent Ferrer and Procopius exhibitions, featuring works by the pioneering abstract artist
St. Nicholas of Tolentino František Kupka, Cubist sculptor Otto Gutfreund and a large
St. Luthgard collection of modern works dating from the 1950s to present
St. Adalbert day by central European artists. They also have temporary
Sts. John of Matha, Felix of Valois and Ivan exhibits. Museum Kampa is one of the best places to explore
St. Wenceslas 20th century central European art. The space and location is
STATUES ON THE NORTH SIDE: beautiful too.QD‑9, U Sovových mlýnů 2, tel. (+ 420) 257
Madonna and St. Bernard 28 61 47/+420 257 286 132, www.museumkampa.com/
Madonna and Sts Dominic and Thomas Aquinas The en. Open 07:00 - 18:00. Admission 240/120Kč. Children
Crucifix and Calvary under 6 free €. Y­J­G­K­W
St. Anne
Sts. Cyril and Methodius
St. John the Baptist
Sts. Norbert of Xanten, Wenscelas and Sigismund
St. John of Nepomuk – Thrown from the bridge to
his death; it is now considered good luck to touch his
statue
St. Anthony of Padua
St. Jude Thaddeus
St. Augustine
St. Cajetan
St. Philip Benitius
St. Vitus
St. Salvator with Cosmas and Damian
Kampa Museum

40 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com

 Sightseeing
youtube.com/inyourpocket THE DANCING HOUSE
THE DANCING HOUSE
KAREL ZEMAN MUSEUM (TANČÍCÍ DŮM)
(FILM SPECIAL EFFECTS MUSEUM) One of Prague’s most pho-
Cinema lovers will want to visit this homage to a special tographed buildings from
effects genius, Karel Zeman. 1955’s Journey to the recent centuries turned 20 in
Beginning of Time was Zeman’s breakthrough film, his 2016. The Dancing House, or
first to combine live action, animation and puppetry. The Tančící dům, was one of the
Fabulous World of Jules Verne released four years later, city’s first modern buildings
garnered him worldwide renown. At the Museum, you built after the fall of com-
can discover his life and films, beginning with his first munism in 1989. It officially
animations and puppet films all the way through to his opened in June 1996.
final creative period. You may be inspired to get creative
as well, the museum’s rooms are designed like studio sets Built by architects Frank O. Gehry and Vlado Milunič,
and taking pictures and shooting movies is encouraged. the building incorporates interesting elements of
QD‑8, Saský dvůr – Saská 3, tel. (+ 420) 724 341 091, symbolism. Meant in part to signify the transition out
www.muzeumkarlazemana.cz. Open 10:00 - 19:00. of communism and into a free society, the two distinct
Admission 200/140 Kč. Children under 1 metre tall free. halves come together with both a dynamic and static
Family ticket (max. 2 adults and 3 children) 490 Kč €€. side. It is supposed to look like a dancing couple (Gehry
Y­J­A­G was supposedly inspired by famed dancing duo Fred
Astaire and Ginger Rogers and wanted to call the
MÁNES EXHIBITION HALL building Fred and Ginger, which never really caught
(VÝSTAVNÍ SÍŇ MÁNES) on.) The concrete part is the male dancer with the glass
Originally designed in 1928 as a permanent place for the side acting as his more fluid female partner. Medusa is
Society of Artists to house their exhibitions, Mánes is an the large metal sculpture crowning them both at the
excellent example of Prague Functionalism. They host top of the building.
temporary exhibitions on a not-so-regular schedule. There’s
a café, restaurant and terrace though to get small glimpses Today, the Dancing House is mainly filled with offices,
of the architecture.QE‑10, Masarykovo nábřeží 250, tel. but there are a few ways to get a glimpse inside. There’s
(+ 420) 224 93 29 38, www.ncvu.eu. Open 12:00 - 18:00. a gallery, Gallery Dancing House (Galerie Tančící dům)
Closed Mon. J­G which shows temporary exhibitions of Czech artists
and themes; a 7th floor restaurant called Ginger & Fred
MUCHA MUSEUM with a French inspired menu plus an upscale bar with
Mucha shaped the Art Nouveau movement with his an outdoor viewing platform, Glass Bar, with fabulous
groundbreaking (and often stolen from Paris’ streets) views of the Vltava River.
posters for actress Sarah Bernhardt and the Theatre de la
Renaissance, and has some renown as a photographer The building was quite controversial for its time. The
with the studies for his various masterpieces. He also space had been empty since World War II; the original
has an excellent shot of a trouserless Paul Gauguin at a building had been destroyed by American bombers in
harmonium. A fitting tribute to artistic genius, whether February 1945. One view was to style the new building
you prefer his pastel seasons, the accusing desperation similar to its neighbours, a stately row of Art Nouveau
of the Slav Epic (his incomplete and huge magnum opus and other 20th century style inspired houses. While
of which there are strangely no photos), or modern prints Prague’s historical architecture is one reason the city
on everything from coasters to mousepads. Don’t miss the is still so beautiful, anyone wanting to do any sort of
short biographical film.QG‑9, Panská 7, MMůstek, tel. (+ ‘modern’ construction still has a fight on their hands.
420) 224 216 415, www.mucha.cz. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 240/160 Kč. A­G Interestingly, Czechoslovakia’s first president, Václav
Havel had a long time interest in seeing something
MUSEUM OF COMMUNISM built on the site. Part owner of the vacant lot, he’d
For a quick and dirty rundown of communism in been trying to get something going there since the
Czechoslovakia, hunt down this museum located upstairs mid-80s. He and architect Milunič brainstormed Havel’s
from a McDonald’s. It’s not big and some of the displays vision of a library, café and theatre on the riverfront. A
look quite amateurish but there is some good information lack of investors meant his plan never came to fruition
and some of the artifacts, like the posters and photos, are however.QE‑11, Rašínovo nábř. 80, tel. (+ 420) 732
quite interesting.QF‑9, Na Příkopě 10, tel. (+ 420) 224 675 202, www.tancici-dum.cz. Open 09:00 - 20:00,
21 29 66, www.muzeumkomunismu.cz. Open 09:00 - Opening hours for the gallery.
21:00. Admission 190/150 Kč. ­G
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 41
 Sightseeing
NATIONAL TECHNICAL MUSEUM
PETŘÍN Not nearly as dull as one might expect, a massive
reconstruction in recent years breathed new life into this
museum, offering fresh exhibitions plus a much needed
update of their tried-and-true. The great collection of
unrestored cars, motorbikes, trains and other transportation
beauties is joined by a beautiful architecture exhibit, one
on photography, astronomy and more.QF‑5, Kostelní 42,
MVltavská, tel. (+ 420) 220 399 111, fax (+420) 220 399
200, www.ntm.cz/en. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 190/90 Kč. Children
under 6 free. Family ticket (max. 2 adults and 3 children)
420 Kč.

RUDOLFINUM
PETŘÍN Commissioned as concert halls and exhibition space and
With stunning views of the city and a choice of gardens named after the Austrian Prince Royal who attended
and trails to explore, Petřín is packed with activities the opening in 1885, this is now home to the Czech
or lazing opportunities. Features include the tower, a Philharmonic and an exhibition space. With no permanent
mirror hall, an 18th century Ukrainian wooden church collection, the gallery is dedicated to temporary exhibitions
and Prague’s lovers enjoying the view.QC‑9, Petřínské with a contemporary bent and typically excellent. The
sady, tel. (+ 420) 257 32 01 12/(+420) 725 83 16 33. concert hall entrance is from the square; the gallery
T­A­6­K entrance is around the corner facing the river.QE‑7,
Alšovo nábř. 12, MStaromětská, tel. (+ 420) 227 059
PETŘÍN HILL FUNICULAR RAILWAY 205, www.galerierudolfinum.cz/en. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Dating from 1891 but completely rebuilt in 1985, the Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 120/80 Kč. U
funicular runs up Petřin Hill providing beautiful views
of Prague and the castle. There are two restaurants STONE BELL HOUSE
sitting at the half-way point - there is a station there. (DŮM U KAMMENNÉHO ZVONU)
Use regular 32Kč tickets.QC‑9, Újezd tram stop, www. The oldest Gothic house in Prague, hidden for years
dpp.cz/en/the-petrin-funicular. Runs at 10 minute behind a neo-Baroque facade, has been superbly restored
intervals from 09:00 - 23:30 (April - October) and at and now houses commendable art exhibitions run by
15 minute intervals from 09:00 - 23:20 (November - the City Gallery of Prague.QF‑8, Staromětská nám. 13,
March). MStaromětská, tel. (+ 420) 224 828 245/(+420) 222 327
851, www.en.ghmp.cz/stone-bell-house/. Open 10:00 -
PETŘÍN TOWER (PETŘÍNSKÁ ROZHLEDNA) 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 120/60Kč.
At the top of Petřin Hill stands a 60m-high tower,
affording great views of the city. The building was THE HOUSE AT THE BLACK MADONNA
completed in May 20, 1891. An alternative route to the Sadly closed for almost four years, this most-famous of
castle is to ride the funky funicular up Petřín Hill and Prague’s Cubist buildings was reopened by the Museum of
walk pass the tower across to the castle area.QB‑9, Decorative Arts in 2015. Originally built in 1911 to house
Petřínská rozhledna, MPetřín funicular, tel. (+ a department store, the building now holds shops on the
420) 725 831 633, www.en.muzeumprahy.cz/198- ground floor, a Cubist café on the first and then the museum
the-petrin-observation-tower/. Open 10:00 - 22:00 on floors two through four. The second and third levels are
(May-Sep). 10:00 - 18:00 (Oct). Admission 120/65Kč. dedicated to a permanent exhibition on Czech Cubism
Family ticket 300 Kč. while the fourth hosts temporary exhibitions related to the
art movement.QG‑8, Ovocný trh 19, MNám. Republiky,
MIRROR LABYRINTH (ZRCADLOVÉ BLUDIŠTĚ) tel. (+ 420) 778 543 901, www.czkubismus.cz/en/the-
Right next to Petřín Tower is a hall of mirrors easily house-at-the-black-madonna. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
spotted thanks to its location in a mini castle. After Closed Mon. Admission 150/80Kč.
winding your way through the maze you are rewarded
with a diorama of a battle that took place on the TOY MUSEUM (MUSEUM HRAČEK)
Charles Bridge in 1648 between residents of Prague Probably better for the young at heart then the truly
and the Swedes. Finally, see how you would look if young, Prague’s Toy Museum is located in the Prague Castle
you were short and squat or tall and skinny thanks complex and does indeed have a massive collection of toys.
to a series of funky mirrors.QB‑9, Praha 1, Petřínské Lots of historical Czech toys, but also toys from around the
sady, tel. (+ 420) 724 911 497. Open 10:00 - 19:00. world dating from the 18th to 20th centuries plus extensive
Admission 50 - 70Kč. collections of Barbie dolls and Teddy bears. For the boys,
Märklin model trains and accessories, plus other model
42 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Sightseeing
airplanes, trains and cars. There’s also a permeant exhibition
about filmmaker and cartoonist Ivan Steiger featuring JAN HUS
wooden and tin toys.QC‑7, Jiřská 6, tel. (+ 420) 224 37
22 94. Open 09:30 - 17:30. Admission 70/30Kč. Family To use the modern vernacular, Jan Hus was a self-
ticket 120Kč. made man, a rising star in the Church and a unique
example of a ‘rags to riches’ story, at least in the spiritual
TRANSPORT MUSEUM sense. Like many men with vision and ideals, they led
See beautifully restored classic trams and buses from the to his eventual downfall.
glory days of Prague trolleys in this converted depot. Read
the history and see the uniforms, old advertising hoardings, Hus arrived in Prague as a young man and supported
maps and photographs. The historical tram (N°91, hourly himself by singing and working in churches. He later
from 12:00 - 18:00) leaves from here on a journey past received theological degrees and was ordained a priest
the castle and Václavské náměstí.QA‑6, Patočkova 4, in 1400. A mere two years later he was appointed
MHradcanská, tel. (+ 420) 296 12 49 00, www.dpp.cz/ rector of the university. Trouble began brewing when
muzeum-mhd. Open 09:00 - 17:00 Sat, Sun and public he translated and distributed documents by Wyclif,
holidays only. (March 25-Nov 17 only). Admission which were soon deemed heretical by the Pope. The
35/20Kč. works condemned church abuses which he believed
were not in keeping with the tenets of Christianity.
VELETRŽNÍ PALACE (NATIONAL GALLERY) Hus obeyed the papal edict for a time, but gained an
The National Gallery’s showcase spot, directors are important ally in the form of King Wenceslas (not the
working hard to bring this museum up to the level first Wenceslas, the patron saint of Czech lands) who
where it belongs. The modernist Veletržní Palace houses was also in favour of Wyclif’s ideas.
the Gallery’s collection of modern and contemporary
art across three floors. In addition to art from the 19th- Meanwhile a schism had formed in the church due to
20th centuries, the period is put into context with a papal succession dispute and the king forbade all
architecture, furniture, crafts, fashion and design as well communications between the Czech clergy and Pope
as temporary exhibitions. Alfons Mucha’s Slav Epic is also Gregory XII. The Pope on the other hand ordered the
here until the end of 2016. Tram N 12, 17 to Veletržní. burning of all of Wyclif’s works which naturally inspired
QH‑4, Dukelských hrdinů 47, MVltavská, tel. (+ 420) Hus to preach them from the pulpits of Prague. Hus
224 301 122, www.ngprague.cz/en/objekt-detail/ was excommunicated and papal emissaries were sent
veletrzni-palace/. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. to Prague to collect money to support his campaign
Admission 300/150Kč. against his rival by the sale of indulgences. Hus
incited students and clergy alike to deride and ridicule
these agents and a very angry Gregory ordered his
PLACES OF INTEREST imprisonment, an order which was ignored by the king.
LENNON WALL
It’s a bit of a mystery why this graffiti wall opposite the In keeping with medieval tradition, Hus posted his
French embassy in Malá Strana still draws in visitors. latest treatise on the doors of the Bethlehem Church
During the communist era, revolutionaries slapped on anti- which did not go unnoticed by his rivals. He was
government slogans, running the risk of arrest. Today the summoned to appear before the Council of Constance
wall is covered with poems and words of peace written to defend his views and did so at his peril. He was tried,
by millions of visitors from around the world.QD‑8, Malá found guilty of heresy and burned at the stake on 6
Strana, Velkopřevorské nám., MMalostranská, tel. (+ July, 1415. Today, a monument to Jan Hus occupies
420) 257 213 420, www.prague.net/john-lennon-wall. prime real estate in Old Town Square and Czechs are
given a day off on the anniversary of his death each
VILLA MÜLLER year.
This icon of modern architecture was designed by
Moravian-born Adolf Loos for construction magnate JAN HUS MONUMENT
František Müller in 1930. The building looks like a solid Czech sculptors are known for occasionally pushing
white block from the outside, though the interior is boundaries, but the monumental memorial to Jan Hus
constructed with marble, mahogany and walnut, highly on Old Town Square is a marvel to both art nouveau
polished and cleanly designed. The rooms all sit at various and symbolism. The stone and bronze work by Ladislav
levels around an ascending sweeping spiral. Tram N°1,18 Šaloun was unveiled in 1915 and shows Hus, a religious
to Ořechovka. Advanced reservations to tour the villa are leader and martyr, above a burning stake, which is
required and can be made on the website.QNad Hradním how he met his death. The plaque in front is a quote
vodojemem 14, MDejvická, tel. (+ 420) 224 312 012, from Hus and says “Love each other and wish the
www.mullerovavila.cz. Open. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri. truth to everyone.”QF‑8, Praha 1, Wenceslas square,
Admission 300/200Kč. English guide 100Kč. Tours by www.prague.cz/jan-hus-monument.
appointment only.
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 43
 Jewish Prague

Ceremonial Hall and cemetery | © Jewish Museum in Prague

Prague’s Jewish community used to be one of the oldest miss mix of art nouveau and pseudo-Moorish styles. The
in Europe, rich in history, legend and tragedy. Here, the New Jewish Cemetery (Nový židovský hřbitov) in Žižkov
story goes, Rabbi Loew created the Golem nearly half a was created in 1891 to relieve overcrowding in the Žižkov
millennium ago. Jewish Cemetery. In addition to many notable art nouveau
The community was confined to a ghetto until 1781 monuments, Franz Kafka and writer Arnošt Lustig are
when Josef II issued the Edict of Tolerance, which permitted buried here. The Žižkov Jewish Cemetery is nearby, close to
the free exercise of religion and the secularisation of the TV Tower in Prague 3. This was originally established as a
education, science and art. The Jewish town is called plague cemetery but only a small part has been preserved.
Josefov to this day in his honour. The Jewish Museum in Prague ticket includes the Maisel
From the 1880s, in the name of slum-clearing, most of Synagogue, Pinkas Synagogue, Old Jewish Cemetery,
Josefov was razed to the ground and only a few synagogues, Klausen Synagogue, Ceremonial Hall, Spanish Synagogue
the cemetery and the Josefov town hall remained. Wide and temporary exhibitions in the Robert Guttmann Gallery.
new streets with grand Art Nouveau buildings emerged in Admission 300Kč/200Kč, Children under 6 free.
place of the decrepit old tenement buildings.
Later still, the Nazis all but annihilated Prague’s Jewish CEREMONIAL HALL
legacy, saving the monuments as their planned epitaph to Next to the Old Jewish Cemetery, the Ceremonial Hall
a vanished culture. The post-war communists did little to was, until the end of World War I, used by the Prague
alleviate the persecution - many of the remaining Jewish Burial Society. On the first floor, the ritual washing of the
inhabitants chose to emigrate. dead took place, the second floor was used for society
Today, the Josefov quarter is home to six synagogues, meetings. It houses the second part of the Jewish Customs
including the famous Spanish Synagogue and Old-New and Traditions exhibition.QE‑7, U Starého hřbitova
Synagogue, plus the Jewish Ceremonial Hall and the Old 3a, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 222 749 211, www.
Jewish Cemetery. All of the sites, with the exception of the jewishmuseum.cz/en/explore/sites/ceremonial-hall.
Old-New Synagogue are run by the Prague Jewish Museum.
Despite being so close to Old Town Square the streets of JUBILEE SYNAGOGUE (JERUSALEM SYNAGOGUE)
Josefov are often quiet and contemplative, a beautiful place (JUBILEJNÍ SYNAGOGA
to sightsee. Another item of note from the Jewish Quarter is (JERUZALÉMSKÁ SYNAGOGA))
that it was the birthplace of writer Franz Kafka. You can see a The newest, biggest, and arguably most spectacular of
unique commemorative statue on Dusni Street. Prague’s synagogues, the Jubilee Synagogue is so called
There are three additional sites worth checking out because it was decided upon on the 50th anniversary of
outside of the Jewish Quarter. Close to the main train station the accession of Franz Joseph I. Built in pseudo-Moorish
is the Jubilee Synagogue, designed with an impossible-to- style and dedicated on 16 Sept 1906 during the festival of
44 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Jewish Prague
Simhat Torah, the synagogue has a service on Sat at 09:00
and is open to visitors from 23 Apr - 31 Oct from 13:00 - JEWISH MUSEUM
17:00 (except Saturdays and Jewish festival days).QH‑9,
Jeruzalémská 1310/7, MStaromětská, tel. (+ 420) 222 JEWISH MUSEUM (ŽIDOVSKÉ MUZEUM)
31 90 02, www.synagogue.cz/jerusalem-synagogue- The starting point for an exploration of Prague’s Jewish
page. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Open only from past and present. The Jewish Museum supervises
April to October. Closed on Saturdays and Jewish seven sites in total: the Old Jewish Cemetery, the
holidays. Ceremonial Hall, the Pinkas, Klausen, Maisel and
Spanish Synagogues and the Robert Guttmann
KLAUSEN SYNAGOGUE Gallery. There are a couple ticket options depending
(KLAUSOVÁ SYNAGOGA) on which sites you’d like to visit. It isn’t cheap, but the
The largest synagogue in the Jewish Quarter, Klausen was tickets are good for seven days. Go early to avoid the
built in 1694 in an early baroque style. Today, there is the crowds. The Museum is closed Saturdays and Jewish
first part of the Jewish Museum’s Jewish Customs and holidays. While most Jewish quarters in the region
Traditions permanent exhibition. The exhibit continues were destroyed in World War II, Prague got ‘lucky’ in
next door in the Ceremonial Hall.QE‑7, U Starého that the main buildings and cemetery in the Jewish
hřbitova 3A, MStaromětská, tel. (+ 420) 222 749 211, Quarter are still intact. Hitler had intended to transform
www.jewishmuseum.cz/en. the quarter into an epitaph to a vanished culture.
QE‑7, Maiselova 38/15, tel. (+ 420) 222 317 191/
MAISEL SYNAGOGUE (MAISELOVA SYNAGOGA) (+420) 222 749 211, www.jewishmuseum.cz/en.
The Maisel Synagogue boasts a unique three nave layout. Open 09:00-18:00 (March 27-October 28). Open
Their permanent exhibition, Jews in the Bohemian 09:00-16:30 (October 30-March 25). Closed on
Lands, 10th-18th Century, is definitely worth a visit. Saturdays and Jewish holidays. The Jewish Museum
The synagogue sometimes hosts concerts and theatrical in Prague ticket includes the Maisel Synagogue,
performances, check the Jewish Museum website for Pinkas Synagogue, Old Jewish Cemetery, Klausen
details.QF‑7, Maiselova 10, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) Synagogue, Ceremonial Hall, Spanish Synagogue
222 749 211, www.jewishmuseum.cz/en. and temporary exhibitions in the Robert Guttmann
Gallery. Admission 300Kč/200Kč, Children under 6
OLD JEWISH CEMETERY free. Y­A
(STARÝ ŽIDOVSKÝ HŘBITOV)
From the 14th century until 1747, this was the final resting the 1968 Soviet invasion and not reopened until 1995. The
place for Prague’s Jewish community; some 12,000 graves synagogue’s walls are chillingly covered with the names of
are said to be piled one on top of the other. Oldest and 77,297 Jewish Holocaust victims from the area. There is also
most famous is that of Rabbi Loew, which is the grave a permanent exhibition of children’s drawings from Terezin
with the most pebbles piled on top of it - a Jewish concentration camp, drawn between 1942 and 1944.
tradition. To visit the cemetery, men will have to cover QE‑7, Praha 1, Široká 3, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420)
their heads; kippas are provided at the entrance.QE‑7, 222 749 211, www.jewishmuseum.cz/en.
Praha 1, Široká 2, (entrance from Pinkas Synagogue),
MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 222 749 211, www. SPANISH SYNAGOGUE
jewishmuseum.cz/en. (ŠPANĚLSKÁ SYNAGOGA)
This neo-Moorish structure was built in 1868 to replace
OLD NEW SYNAGOGUE the previously demolished Old Synagogue. It is a beautiful
(STARONOVÁ SYNAGOGA) building outside and in, with a domed ceiling, Islamic
Of all the synagogues in Prague, this is perhaps the most motifs and stained glass. Restored in 1998, the synagogue
important. It has stood here since the 13th century, and houses an exhibition on the history of Czech Jews. On the
despite fires, floods and the Nazi occupation, remains today upper floor is a display of silver artefacts from the museum’s
the functional, spiritual centre of the Jewish community. It’s collection.QF‑7, Dušní 12, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420)
remains one of Prague’s oldest preserved gothic buildings. 222 749 211, www.jewishmuseum.cz/en.
QE‑7, Červená 2, MStaroměstská, tel. (+ 420) 222
749 211, www.jewishmuseum.cz. Open 09:00 - 18:00. ŽIŽKOV JEWISH CEMETERY
Closed Sat, Open 09:00-18:00 (April-October). Closed on Only a peaceful small corner remains of this Jewish
Saturdays and Jewish holidays. Admission 200/140Kč. cemetery at the foot of the TV tower. Originally a plague
Children under 6 free. cemetery established well away from the city limits in
1680, 40,000 people were buried here until 1890. Baroque,
PINKAS SYNAGOGUE (PINKASOVA SYNAGOGA) Empire and Romantic style tombstones survived the ages.
In 1955-60, the Pinkas Synagogue was turned into a QJ‑9, Fibichova, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+ 420) 222
memorial to the Jewish victims of the Shoah from Bohemia 749 464, www.kehilaprag.cz. Open 11:00 - 15:00, Fri
and Moravia, one of the earliest memorials of its kind in 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun and on Jewish
Europe. The memorial was permanently closed following holidays. Admission 50 Kč.
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 45
 The National Museum

The New Building of the National Museum

Prague’s National Museum (Národní Muzeum) is one of the the Ethnographical Museum. More recent Czech history,
city’s most well-known landmarks being as it sits lording specifically covering the decades Czechoslovakia existed,
over Wenceslas Square. While that is what’s known as is examined in an excellent exhibition at the National
the ‘main building,’ the National Museum itself actually Memorial on Vítkov Hill.
manages ten other museums in Prague and five more For those with an interest in Asian, African and
in other Czech cities. Seeing as the main building closed American cultures, head over to the Náprstek Museum.
down in 2011 for a massive reconstruction and isn’t Focused solely on non-European culture, the museum got
scheduled to open again until 2018, you may be interested its start after founder Vojta Náprstek, inspired by his time
in visiting one of these other locations. spent as a political refugee in the United States, returned
But first a bit of history. The National Museum was home to create a museum for Czechs. The initial collections
established as a “national museum” on 15 April 1818 by a contained ethnographic and artistic artefacts brought by
ceremonial declaration of the aristocracy. Šternberg Palace Náprstek’s friends and other travellers from around the
in Hradčany became the museum’s first home; its second world. For those with an interest in sculpture, head out to
was on Na Příkopě. As the collections grew, so did demands the Lapidárium in Prague 7, home to some of the best in
for a suitable building to be built. Space was requested in Bohemian stone carvings through the 19th century.
1864 in Karlovo naměstí but Prague City Council didn’t In the land of Smetana, Dvořák and Martinů one would
like this plan and eventually provided the current space expect a Music Museum. The Czech Museum of Music is
on Wenceslas Square. In November 1883, a programme located in a former Baroque church and its permanent
that defined the purposes and significant features of the exhibition focuses on the musical instrument, both as an art
planned building was approved. The building officially form and a link between humans and music. The institution
opened in May 1891. Exhibition areas were created for the also runs two museums dedicated to individual composers,
Natural History collections, the Cultural and Social History the Bedřich Smetana Museum located in Old Town near the
collections and a Library. In 1904 though, the museum’s Vltava River and the Antonín Dvořák Museum housed in a
head was already complaining about a lack of space, a beautiful baroque villa in Prague 2.
problem finally being rectified in this next century. Finally, the museum manages two smaller, more
The National Museum’s main building is home to its specific sites. The Jaroslav Ježek Memorial is a room in a
natural history, geology, palaeontology, archaeology and private flat furnished in the functionalist style. Part of the
prehistory collections. Right next door is the National memorial includes the books and records of Ježek, a Czech
Museum’s New Building. Exhibitions cover a wide variety composer and pianist. The František Palacký and František
of aspects of Czech history, and they typically have good Ladislav Rieger Memorial is a remarkable 19th century
interactive elements for children. Czech folk culture is collection of art, furnishings and family portraits from an
explored in the charming Kinsky Folly building home to aristocratic family.
46 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 The National Museum
ANTONÍN DVOŘÁK MUSEUM NATIONAL MEMORIAL ON VÍTKOV HILL
Housed in a gorgeous baroque villa, the Antonín Dvořák (NÁRODNÍ PAMÁTNÍK)
Museum is worth the price of admission to glimpse For a deep dive into the history of Czechoslovakia, check
the mythological frescoes inside and the wonderful out this well-done permanent exhibition housed in a
Matyáš Bernard Braun sculptures in the garden. Dvořák complex which includes a Ceremonial Hall, the Tomb
fans will appreciate the collection of his autographs of the Unknown Soldier, the facilities of the Klement
and correspondence, period photographs and other Gottwald Mausoleum, additional exhibition halls which
documentary materials.QG‑11, Ke Karlovu 20, MI.P. host temporary shows, a fabulous viewing terrace and
Pavlova, tel. (+ 420) 224 923 363/(+420) 224 918 013, a lovely cafe. The building itself is a marble wonder,
www.nm.cz/Hlavni-strana/Visit-Us/Antonin-Dvorak- filled with representative sculptures and mosaics from
Museum.html. Open 10:00 - 13:30 and 14:00 - 17:00. the First Republic. The exhibition highlights the most
Closed Mon. Admission 50 Kč/30 Kč. Children under important milestones in Czechoslovakia’s relatively short
6 free. Family ticket (max. 2 adults, 3 children) 90 Kč. history: the founding of the Czechoslovak Republic in
Guided tour in English or German (up to 30 people) 500 1918; the period surrounding the Munich Agreement
Kč (tours by prior arrangement only). in 1938 and the dissolution of Czechoslovakia in 1939;
the re-establishment of Czechoslovakia in 1945 and the
CZECH MUSEUM OF MUSIC communist coup d’état three years later; the establishment
Of course a musically inclined country would have a of the Czechoslovak federation in 1968 and finally the fall
music museum, and this one is a beauty. The permanent of communism in 1989.
exhibition, called Man-Instrument-Music, focuses on The building was originally designed as a memorial to
musical instruments and their link with human culture. World War I Czechoslovak legions, and then taken over
Stringed instruments play a big role, with both examples as the resting place for the great and the not very good
from famed French and Italian musicians on display as well Communists. Gottwald, for example, was pickled in slivovice
as a special room devoted to the Prague violin-making and put on display here. Unfortunately the preservation
school. Woodwinds, brass and percussion all get their due was not wholly successful and the body started to putrefy
acknowledgment. Headphones throughout allow visitors from the feet up, shocking the odd visiting school party as
to truly immerse themselves in the music. The museum their national hero literally started to fall apart before their
building is a former 17th century baroque church.QC‑8, very eyes. His body was returned to his family in 1990 and
Karmelitská 2/4, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) 257 later buried in the cemetery in Olšanské.
257 777, www.nm.cz/Hlavni-strana/Visit-Us/Czech- Elsewhere on the hilltop you’ll find one of the largest
Museum-of-Music.html. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. equestrian statues in the world. The 16.5 ton statue
Admission 120/80 Kč. Children under 6 free. Family ticket commemorates the Hussite hero, Jan Žižka.QJ‑8, U
(max. 2 adults and 3 children) 200 Kč. Guided Tour 600 Kč. památníku 1900, MFlorenc, tel. (+ 420) 224 49 76 07/
(+420) 222 78 16 76, www.nm.cz. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
LAPIDARIUM Closed Mon, Tue (Apr – Oct). Open 10:00 - 18:00, Closed
A superb permanent exhibition of stone sculpture in the Mon, Tue, Wed (Nov – Mar).
Czech lands from 11th to 19th century. That sounds like it
could be dull, but for sculpture fans it’s a really interesting NATIONAL MUSEUM (NEW BUILDING)
deep dive into the history of the art form. Many important Overlook the uninspired name of this building and pay
pieces from across Prague have found themselves here, a visit to discover different aspects of ‘older’ Czech and
including some of the original statues from Charles Bridge. natural history. The museum does excellent kid-friendly
QG‑3, Výstaviště 422, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+ 420) exhibitions too. The building itself can be considered an
70 20 13 372/(+420) 724 412 257, www.nm.cz/Hlavni- eyesore – before its role as a museum, it was originally the
strana/Visit-Us/Lapidarium-Lapidary-Exhibition-of- Prague Stock Exchange (1938 to the arrival of occupational
Stone-Monuments.html. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Wed 10.00 forces), then Parliament (1946-1992) and finally from 1995-
- 16.00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 50/30Kč. Y­G 2009, the headquarters of Radio Free Europe.QH‑10,
Vinohradská 1, MMuzeum, tel. (+ 420) 224 497 111/
NÁPRSTKOVO MUSEUM (+420) 224 497 118, www.nm.cz/Hlavni-strana/Visit-
The museum of Asian, African and American cultures Us/National-Museum-New-Building.html. Open 10:00
collected by philanthropist Vojta Náprstek. The museum’s - 18:00, Wed 09:00 - 18:00, Every first Wednesday of the
roving exhibitions are usually small, but interesting. month: 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 180/120 Kč. Children
The bright feather head-dresses from South America under 6 free. Family ticket (max. 2 adults and 3 children)
are definitely worth a look.QE‑9, Betlémské nám. 1, 300 Kč.
MNárodní třída, tel. (+ 420) 224 497 501/(+420) 224
497 500, www.nm.cz/Hlavni-strana/Visit-Us/Naprstek-
Museum-of-Asian-African-and-American-Cultures. Get the In Your Pocket
html. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 100/70 Kč. Children under 6 free. Family City Essentials App
ticket (max. 2 adults and 3 children) 170 Kč.
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 47
 Kafka’s Prague

Franz Kafka’s massive steel rotating head

Franz Kafka (1883-1924) is one of Czech’s most famous Ottla, lived at (B-1) Golden Lane 22 (Zlatá ulička) and
writers although, possibly because he wrote in German, he is reported to have written his short stories in her
his fame didn’t become apparent locally until after the front room. Ottla was later shipped to the Terezín
fall of communism in 1989. His work was banned during concentration camp in north western Bohemia from
World War II and the communist regime didn’t exactly where in 1943 she volunteered to accompany a
embrace the themes he wrote about. So while Prague had trainload of children to a destination which later turned
a deep effect on Kafka, the writer’s influence on the city out to be Auschwitz. Franz was the Kafka’s family only
doesn’t amount to much. He is, however, a world-famous surviving boy, two other sons dying in infancy. Franz’s
existential writer and philosopher and did indeed leave other two sisters also died in concentration camps.
many footprints across Prague. Kafka had a difficult relationship with his father, a
successful businessman, who was reported to have a
Kafka was born into a Jewish family on July 3, 1883 at strong temper and didn’t understand or appreciate his
(E-3) U radnice 5, a house on the corner of Maiselova son’s creative side nor desire to write. This relationship
and Kaprova - a border between Staré Město and seems to be reflected in many of Kafka’s stories, which
Josefov. There is a plaque on the building now and often see the main character fighting against some sort
a small exhibition inside the house. Prague at that of strong, overbearing personality.
time was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and
German was Kafka’s first language, despite his Jewish Kafka worked for the Worker’s Accident Insurance
roots and Czech background. As a boy Kafka lived in Company (G-7, Na Poříčí 7) on what is now one of
the (E-3) Minute House (Dům U Minuty), the black Prague’s high streets. The building today is the Hotel
and white graffitioed building that is part of the Town Century Old Town. Another hotel connected to his work
Hall on Staromětské nám. For some time he lived in an is the former Grand Hotel Evropa on Wenceslas Square.
apartment, by all accounts a pretty substandard place, One of his first public readings was held here (then
within the building that now houses the American called Hotel Erzherzog Stefan) in 1912. He read from
embassy over in the (A-2) Schornbornsky palac at Tržistì The Judgement. In 1923, he made the big decision to
15. He also lived for a time in another street off (E-3) move to Berlin so he could focus on his writing. It was
Staromětské nám, Týnska 3 . there that the tuberculosis he had struggled with for
years returned. He had first caught the disease in 1917
Kafka went to school in a German language gymnasium and when it returned in 1923, he was forced to retire
in the (E-3) Goltz-Kinský Palace. He studied law but from the insurance company. He travelled to Vienna for
ended up working at an insurance agency while all treatment in a sanatorium and it was there he died on
the time just wanting to write. Kafka’s favourite sister, June 3, 1924.
48 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Kafka’s Prague
Like many a struggling artist, Kafka was not appreciated FRANZ KAFKA MONUMENT
until after his death. Most of his work was published This is the second of two tributes to Kafka and this one
posthumously by his good friend and literary executor is more monumental (literally). .It’s basically a massive
Max Brod, who plays a large role in why we even stainless steel rotating Franz Kafka head. Designed by
know who Kafka is today. Stories published before Czech artist David Černý, the 10 metre reflecting head can
his death include the popular ‘The Metamorphosis,’ be found lurking behind the Tesco department store and
‘Before the Law’ and ‘The Judgement’ along with a few Quadrio shopping centre in the New Town. Unveiled in
collections like ‘Mediation’ and ‘A Hunger Artist.’ His 2014, it weighs 45 tons and moves at a speed of six RPM.
self-doubt though led him to struggle with his writing QNárodní 26, MNárodní třída.
and publishing and he begged Brod to destroy any
unpublished manuscripts after his death. Brod did KAFKA MUSEUM
not follow these instructions and instead went on A recommended first stop for anyone looking to explore
to publish Kafka’s ‘The Trial,’ ‘The Castle’ and ‘Amerika,’ writer Franz Kafka’s connection to Prague, this museum
among others. in Malá Strana showcases his life and work in the Czech
city. The first section explores how Prague effected
Kafka’s writing had a great effect on German literature Kafka, giving rise to him referring to the city as a “dear
and his popularity there was much greater than in little mother with claws,” a phrase still used to describe
his home town. In Eastern European countries living the city today. The second section looks at how Kafka
under Communism however, Kafka became a popular transformed Prague in his stories, in both a metaphorical
underground read, as citizens could identify with and allegorical way.QD‑8, Hergetova Cihelna 2b,
the heavy-handedness of bureaucracy and faceless tel. (+ 420) 257 53 55 07/+420 257 535 373, www.
organisations. kafkamuseum.cz. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission
200/120Kč. Family ticket (2 Adults, 2 Children) 540Kč.
Aficionados can make a pilgrimage to his grave, at the New Guided tours 500Kč.
Jewish Cemetery (Židovské hřbitovy; Želivského metro)
where he is buried next to his parents. Kafka’s grave is KAFKA’S BIRTHPLACE
N°137. There are typically a few fans visiting his grave to Franz Kafka was here on July 3, 1883 a point which sits
commemorate the date of his death. just on the border between Staré Město and Josefov.
Today you’ll find a plaque on the building now and a small
A bronze sculpture was unveiled in December 2003 exhibition inside..QE‑2, U radnice 5.
in honour of Kafka. It is located next to the Spanish
Synagogue (E-2) in Josefov. However, there’s a more MINUTE HOUSE (DŮM U MINUTY)
monumental (literally) monument to the writer in If you tear your eyes away from the Astronomical Clock on
Prague. Located behind the Tesco department store at Old Town Square, you’ll notice a richly sgraffito building
Národní 26, it’s a huge reflecting, rotating Kafka head. to your left. The Minute House, (as in small amount, not
Designed by local artist David Černý, it’s nearly 40 feet unit of time) so called because it used to be a tobacco
tall and made up of just over 40 moving chrome plated shop, is a great example of Czech renaissance architecture
layers. with the façade’s design drawing from both biblical
and mythological sources, as well as contemporary
T​he Kafka Museum opened in 2005 and offers an renaissance legends. The structure is more impressive
in-depth look at Kafka’s connection to the city. The for literary fans as Franz Kafka lived here with his parents
museum presents Prague as a city full of the strange from 1889 to 1896. The building is part of the Old Town
tales that were influential on Kafka’s work. If you are Hall complex and is not open to the public.QE‑2,
determined to make your trip to Prague completely Staromětské nám.
Kafkaesque, book a bed at the Hostel Franz Kafka and
pop in for a coffee at the Franz Kafka Café. Cafes in NEW JEWISH CEMETERY (ŽIDOVSKÉ HŘBITOVY)
Kafka’s times were the place for intellectuals to meet, Much larger and much less visited than the Old Town
and one of the writer’s favourite haunts was Café Cemetery. Founded in 1890, it has some impressive
Louvre, a probably much better café choice than the graves from the early 1900s. Franz Kafka is buried at grave
one that bears his name. N°137.QVinohradská, MŽelivského, tel. (+ 420) 272
74 18 93, www.synagogue.cz/new-jewish-cemetery-
FRANZ KAFKA MONUMENT page/. Open Sun-Thu 09:00 - 17:00 (09:00 - 16:00 Nov
This untraditional bronze sculpture sits in front of the - Mar), Friday 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Saturday and Jewish
Spanish Synagogue in the Josef Quarter. Designed by holidays.
Jaroslav Róna, the sculptor was apparently inspired by
Kafka’s story Description of a Struggle. The creation of the
statue was initiated by the Franz Kafka Society and the 37 Full contents online:
metre tall piece was unveiled in 2003.QF‑7, Dušní 12, prague.inyourpocket.com
MStaroměstská.
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 49
 Kutná Hora

An hour from Prague is the beautiful town of Kutná Hora

For those looking for an interesting day trip from RESTAURANTS

Prague, Kutná Hora is one of your best options. The BARBORA RESTAURANT AND BED & BREAKFAST
city was a regional powerhouse back in the Middle International and Czech cuisine with a beautiful view,
Ages thanks to its silver mines. Today, Kutná Hora Barbora is located next to its namesake Cathedral and offers
boasts a rich tapestry of architectural styles and a light menu full of thoughtful cooking. The interiors are
unique buildings from different historical periods, lovely but your eyes will most likely be focused outside. The
including two cathedrals, two Romanesque churches, summer patio is even better. Stop by at least for a coffee
five Gothic and two Baroque churches, three large or glass of wine.QKremnická 909, tel. (+ 420) 327 316
monastic buildings, two Gothic chapels and if you 327/+420 725 701 540, www.penzionbarbora.cz. Open
need more, a number of burgher houses and stone 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. G
sculptural works.
DAČICKÝ - OLD BOHEMIAN TAVERN
The historic centre of Kutná Hora with the Cathedral of AND RESTAURANT
St. Barbara and the Cathedral of the Assumption of Our Old Bohemian dining at its best, Dačický is dark and
Lady in Sedlec are listed on the UNESCO World Cultural rough with long wood tables and lots of décor inspired
and Natural Heritage List. In addition, there are three by medieval days. A menu to match, expect lots of meat
national cultural heritage monuments – the former but creatively done. The potato soup with wild mushrooms
mint Italian Court, Kačina Chateau and the Church of and roast duck with cabbage and dumplings are two Czech
St. James in the village of the same name – not to be specialties not to miss. Order the King’s Sword for a selection
confused with the Church of St. James in Kutná Hora of meat brought to you really on a sword.QRakova 8, tel.
proper. (+ 420) 327 512 248/+420 603 434 367, www.dacicky.
com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.
Besides the history and architecture, Kutná Hora has a
lively events calendar including concerts, music festivals, V RUTHARDCE
exhibitions, festivals and sporting events. Outside of town, Light and bright with a log cabin feel, the attraction of V
there are spots for climbing along the Vrchlice stream, Ruthardce is the beautiful outdoor garden space in which
horseback riding is also popular and a good network of to eat, drink and relax. A long list of pork and chicken
hiking and biking trails which lead to other sites of interest items, they also include some for vegetarians and a
including Velky Pond, Kačina Chateau, the ruins of Sion children’s menu.QDačického nám. 15, tel. (+ 420) 739
Castle and the Vysoká viewing tower near the village of 013 510/+420 607 286 298, www.v-ruthardce.cz. Open
Miskovice. 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. T­6­B
50 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Kutná Hora
CHURCHES GETTING TO KUTNÁ HORA
CATHEDRAL OF THE ASSUMPTION OF OUR
LADY AND ST JOHN THE BAPTIST AT SEDLEC ARRIVING BY CAR
Across the street from the Ossuary you’ll find another From Prague, Kutná Hora is about 85 kilometres,
UNESCO listed cathedral, the Cathedral of the Assumption travelling on the D11 highway in the direction of
of Our Lady and St John the Baptist. Completed in 1320, Hradec Králové. Near Poděbrady you’ll want to change
it was in ruins for almost 300 years after it was plundered to Route 38 towards Kolín. Look for signs for Route
by the Hussites in 1421. It got a baroque-gothic facelift in 2 into Kutná Hora. There isn’t much parking in the
1709 from builder Jan Blažej Santini-Aichel who tastefully city centre, the nearest place is Wenceslas Square
preserved its original gothic atmosphere. Unusual features (Václavské náměstí).
Santini added are the self-supporting vault and the self-
supporting staircase. In the cathedral’s so-called “inner ARRIVING BY TRAIN
circle” an animated film about the cathedral’s history Trains from Prague’s main train station run to Kutná
is screened and you’ll also view the treasury which Hora hlavní nádraží roughly every hour. Some are
includes the Sedlec monstrance, one of the oldest gothic direct (about 50 minutes) and some are not (about
monstrances in the world.QZámecká 279, Kutná Hora - 60 minutes). The indirect ones require a change in the
Sedlec, tel. (+ 420) 326 551 049, www.sedlec.info. Open town of Kolín. Schedules can be checked online at
09:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00 (Apr-Oct). 10:00 - 16:00. www.idos.cz.
Sun 11:00 - 16:00 (Nov-Mar). Admission 50/30Kč.
The train station is about 2 kilometres from the actual
CHURCH OF ST. JAMES town of Kutná Hora, in the suburb of Sedlec, which is
The defining point of Kutná Hora’s skyline, St. James was conveniently where the famed Sedlec Ossuary (Bone
finished in 1336 and was the region’s first stone church. Church) is located. There is a tourist information centre
Its tower is 86 metres tall. Interesting pieces remain located in the train station to pick up a map and get any
throughout the church’s interior including gothic choir questions answered.
benches from the 1480s and the Holy Trinity painting from
1734 and the painting of the Beheading of St. Jacob from The train station is about a 10 minute walk
1752. Most of the items seen today though date back to (there are posted signs) to the Ossuary and
the end of the 17th century. The church also boasts two then the town of Kutná Hora proper is another 2
organs– a rare baroque gem from the end of the 17th kilometres from there. A tourist bus runs between
century and the largest organ in Kutná Hora from the the Ossuary and St. Barbara’s Cathedral in Kutná
turn of the 20th century.QJakubská, Kutná Hora-Vnitřní Hora. It runs whenever there are three people
město, tel. (+ 420) 327 515 796, www.khfarnost.cz. waiting. Check with the Sedlec Information
Open 10:00 - 12:30, 13:00 - 17:00 (Jun-Sept only). Centre for details.

ST. BARBARA’S CATHEDRAL Alternatively, you can get on another train at Kutná
Kutná Hora’s mining wealth gave rise to the beautiful St. Hora hlavní nádraží and go to the station Kutná
Barbara’s Cathedral, named after the patron saint of miners. Hora-Sedlec, which is across the street from the
A miner’s chapel dedicated to Barbara first stood on this Ossuary. The train, which you can take into Kutná
rocky point around 1300. Building of the cathedral began in Hora proper as well, runs about once an hour. The
Kutná Hora-Sedlec station is a request stop which
means you will need to push the call button in order
for the train to stop at the station. There is no tourist
TOURIST INFORMATION information centre in this train station, but there is
one in Sedlec.
KUTNÁ HORA INFORMATION CENTRE
QPalackého náměstí 377, Kutná Hora, tel. (+ 420) KUTNÁ HORA MAIN RAILWAY STATION
327 512 378/(+420) 731 801 004, www.destinace. (KUTNÁ HORA HLAVNÍ NÁDRAŽÍ)
kutnahora.cz. Open Mon-Sun 09:00 - 18:00 (Apr- The Kutná Hora main train station is actually located
Sep). Mon-Fri 09:00 - 17:00, Sat-Sun 10:00 - 16:00 in Sedlec, convenient for visiting the Ossuary from
(Oct-Mar). Prague. The actual town of Kutná Hora is about 2.5
kilometres away and is an easy walk. There is a tourist
KUTNÁ HORA INFORMATION CENTRE bus that runs between the Ossuary and St. Barbara’s
(MAIN TRAIN STATION) Cathedral. It runs whenever there are three people
QK Nádraží St. 2, Kutná Hora - Sedlec, tel. (+ 420) waiting. Check with the Sedlec Information Centre
605 802 874, www.destinace.kutnahora.cz. Open for details.QK Nádraží 2, tel. (+ 420) 840 112 113,
Mon-Sun 09:00 - 18:00 (Apr-Sept). Mon-Sun 09:00 - www.cd.cz.
17:00 (Oct-Mar).

facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 51

 Kutná Hora
1388 but disruptions of various kinds over the years meant
KOSTNICE the construction wasn’t actually completed until 1905. Its
baroque touches come courtesy of the Jesuits who took
CEMETERY CHURCH OF ALL SAINTS over in the early 1600s and did a bit of redecorating.
WITH OSSUARY AT SEDLEC Entering the soaring space note the 20 tall pillars dividing
The bone church (Kostnice). You may never have heard the church and the illumination from 50 large windows.
of Kutná Hora, most probably never of Sedlec, but The stained glass windows were designed by František
stories about the Czech Republic’s famed bone church Urban and installed at the beginning of the 20th century.
are everywhere. And most people, when they say they The main altar is a neo-gothic five-wing altarpiece with a
are going to Kutná Hora, are actually planning a visit to relief depicting the Last Supper. It was actually created in
the bone church. 1905 based on descriptions from the original late gothic
Officially called the Cemetery Church of All Saints with altarpiece from 1502 which was removed by the Jesuits
Ossuary, it really is a fascinating place. Located in an and not preserved.
underground chapel of the church, it was part of the The Cathedral of St. Barbara is a masterpiece of late Bohemian
Sedlec monastery. The church was built in the 14th gothic. It’s both a national cultural monument and a UNESCO
century, and according to legend, one of the local World Cultural and Natural Heritage Site.QBarborská, Kutná
abbots brought soil from Jerusalem and scattered it Hora, tel. (+ 420) 775 363 938/+420 327 515 796, fax +420
around the cemetery making it the oldest so-called 327 512 115, www.khfarnost.cz. Open 10:00 - 16:00 (Jan-
“holy field” in Central Europe. After the plague in 1318, Feb), 10:00 - 17:00 (Mar, Nov, Dec), 09:00 - 18:00 (Apr-Oct).
around 30,000 bodies were buried here and 10,000 Admission 60/40Kč.
more courtesy of the Hussite wars. The cemetery was
abolished at the end of the 15th century and the
exhumed bones were placed inside the church. Hence MUSEUMS
the beginning of our story in which a half-blind monk CZECH MUSEUM OF SILVER - HRÁDEK
arranged them into a pyramid in 1511. The present Get acquainted with the historic richness of Kutná Hora with
bone arrangement dates from 1870 and is the work of a visit to its Silver Museum. Go deeper, literally, by touring a
a Czech woodcarver, František Rint – look for his name, medieval mine. There are two tours on offer; Tour 1 delves
signed in bones of course, on the right-hand wall over into the geology and archaeology of the region dating back
the last bench. The largest collections of bones are to the first medieval settlement and then chronicles life in
arranged in the form of bells in the four corners of the the royal town when the silver mines were active. For a little
chapel while one of Rint’s most interesting creations is more interactive fun, take Tour 2 which brings you through
the chandelier in the centre of the nave which contains a 250 metre mining tunnel to see a replica medieval mine
all the bones of the human body. The ossuary contains and learn the process of turning ore into coins.
the remains of about 40,000 people.QZámecká 279, The building the Silver Museum is in was originally a castle
Kutná Hora-Sedlec, tel. (+ 420) 326 551 049, www. dating back to 1312. At the end of the 15th century it was
kostnice.cz. Open 08:00-18:00, Sun 09:00-18:00 transformed into a luxurious residence by a wealthy local
(Apr–Sept); 09:00-17:00 (Mar, Oct); 09:00-16:00 who unfortunately ran up a lot of debts and was forced to
(Nov-Dec). Admission 90/60Kč. sell it to Jan Smíšek who invested even more into doing
the place up. Rumour has it, the reason for his wealth was
that he was secretly melting silver on the premises thereby
stealing from the crown and becoming rich enough to
maintain and refine his residence.QBarborská 28, Kutná
Hora-Vnitřní Město, tel. (+ 420) 327 512 159, www.
cms-kh.cz. Open 09.00 - 17.00 (Apr, Oct). 09.00 - 18.00
(May, Jun, Sept). 10.00 - 18.00 (July-Aug). 10.00 - 16.00
(Nov-March). Closed Mon. Admission 70/40Kč. Foreign
language guide 20Kč.

GASK – GALLERY OF CENTRAL BOHEMIA

A surprise for art lovers is lurking in one of the building of
the former Jesuit College. GASK focuses mainly on Czech
art of the 20th and 21st centuries, taking a special interest
in young artists who work not only with traditional media
but also utilize experimental techniques. A nod to Czech
design is included in their Whitebox exhibition space.
GASK’s permanent exhibition, States of Mind/Beyond the
Image uses pieces from GASK’s collection arranged in such
© R. B. Maniscalchi
a way as to examine a person’s emotional and mental life.
Temporary exhibitions also cover two floors of the building.
52 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Kutná Hora
Built by Baroque architect Domenico Orsi between 1667
and 1703, the austere space was meant to appeal to the

All you need

Jesuit Order, with only the front façade slipping in a little
Italian baroque decoration. The College was used for
military purposes after the Jesuits left and then GASK

to know
opened here in 2009.QBarborská 24, Kutná Hora,
tel. (+ 420) 725 377 433, www.gask.cz. Open 10:00 -
18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 80/40Kč. Family ticket
120Kč.
about where
MONUMENTS
PLAGUE COLUMN (MOROVÝ SLOUP) to sleep, eat,
drink, visit
The Baroque jewel of Kutná Hora, the city’s plague column
was built in 1715. A memorial to the thousands of victims
killed during the plague that struck the town in 1713, the

and enjoy
work is decorated with mining motifs and at the top is a
statute of the Immaculate Virgin Mary.QSultysova.

PLACES OF INTEREST
ITALIAN COURT
This was where the money was. For centuries, the Italian
Court was the centre of the country’s economic power
boasting both the royal mint and home to the king
when he came visiting the silver mines. The beginning of
the Italian Court is believed to be at the end of the 13th ONLINE
century, when it served as the town castle. During the
14th century, the castle was gradually rebuilt into a mint.
However, the greatest boom in construction activities did
not take place until the end of the 14th century under the
reign of King Wenceslas IV.
Visitors today can visit a permanent exhibition called The
Royal Mint, all about money, as well as check out some of
the more interesting parts of the building’s interior like the
royal chapel and reception hall. Finally, for those looking
for a bit of criminal enlightenment, housed here also is the
Museum – Unveiling the Mysterious Face of Kutná Hora. PRINT
Located in the cellar it offers guests details about medieval MOBILE
Kutná Hora criminal cases. The building is also home to
the Town Hall.QHavlíčkovo náměstí 552, Kutná Hora,
tel. (+ 420) 327 512 873/(+420) 736 485 409, www.
guideskutnahora.com. Open 10:00 - 17:00 (March,
Oct). 09:00 - 18:00 (April-Sept). 10:00 - 16:00 (Nov-Feb).
Admission 70/50Kč. Children up to 6 years free.

STONE HOUSE
A striking structure to behold while walking down
Radnická, the Stone House’s current style dates back to
around the 1480s when it belonged to the town’s highest
ranking mining official who decided to do his pad up right.
It’s a good example of Czech gothic architecture. Today the Europe's biggest publisher
building is owned by the Czech Museum of Silver and hosts of locally produced city guides
a permanent exhibition on 17th-19th century burgher
lifestyle and a lapidary of sculptures and monuments from
around the city.QVáclavské Square 183, tel. (+ 420) 327
512 821, www.cms-kh.cz. Open 09:00 - 17:00 (Apr, Oct);
prague.inyourpocket.com
09:00 - 18:00 (May, June, Sept); 10:00 - 18:00 (July, Aug);
10:00 - 16:00 (Nov). Closed Monday.
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 53
 Olomouc

Olomouc is a must-see on any tour of the Czech Republic

For those looking to escape the crowds of Prague, Olomouc, There are a number of interesting museums in Olomouc –
a roughly 2 hour train ride from the capital, should capture something for nearly everyone. The beautiful Archdiocesan
your heart. The pretty university town is small enough to Museum, located on Václavské náměstí, is home to a
be charming, yet interesting enough for at least a weekend. permanent exhibition of the Olomouc Archdiocese, a
Located in Moravia, there’s a plethora of architecture and picture gallery featuring paintings dating back to the 16th
history. century, and the Mozarteum, a great hall commemorating
the famous composer’s stay in Olomouc. The city is rich in
Olomouc is the fifth largest city in the Czech Republic with religious history.
a population of about 100,000. It is home to the country’s
second oldest university (after Charles University in Prague) Besides the Archdiocesan Museum and the Holy Trinity
which means its culture scene is alive and there’s a variety Column, visitors can also marvel at St. Maurice’s Church,
of dining and entertainment options available. To get a the biggest Gothic church in the region, dating from the
feel for the city, start your day on the main square, Horní 15-16th centuries and the oldest Moravian monastery,
náměstí. There you will find the UNESCO listed Holy Trinity the Archbishop’s Palace located in the Olomouc suburb of
Column. It is the largest collection of Baroque statues Hradisko. The most significant sacred building in Olomouc
within the framework of one sculpture group in Central is the Bishop’s Cathedral of St. Wenceslas, built in 1109.
Europe. The lower part contains a chapel, which can be
visited seasonally, April-September. The column is made up
of 18 statues, 12 torchbearers, 6 reliefs, a sculptural group
of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and finally at the top,
TOURIST INFORMATION
the Holy Trinity. Also on Horní náměstí is an Astronomical INFORMATION CENTRE
Clock – we told you a visit would be like Prague! This clock Located on Horní náměstí in the archway of the Town
is quite different from the one that draws massive crowds Hall they can assist with accommodation, information
to Old Town Square. The timepiece dates back to the end of on what to see, restaurant recommendations and
the 15th century, however the form it takes here is much more. You can book guided theme tours here or rent
different than what the original planners had designed. an audio guide and do it yourself. They also have a free
During World War II, the clock was so damaged in the multimedia guide to download – Olina. Their website is
fighting that City Hall decided not to reconstruct it, but very informative as well for pre-trip planning.QHorní
instead design something modern. What you’ll see now náměstí, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 585 51 33 85/(+420)
is a 1950s work depicting Communist era proletariat, like 585 51 33 92, www.tourism.olomouc.eu. Open 09:00
builders, agricultural workers and other labourers. The clock - 19:00.
performs once a day, at noon, for about five minutes.
54 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Olomouc
If you have a couple extra days, explore the lovely Moravian The single-nave structure with side chapels has a rich
countryside outside of Olomouc. The city is a great place sculptural and painting decoration and is an example of the
to base yourself while discovering the beautiful towns Baroque appeal aimed at the senses of the church-goers.
and tasty Moravian wine in the eastern part of the county. A Gothic St. Alexei Chapel and a Gothic Cloister with cross
Litomyšl and Kroměříž are two charming towns that will vaulting adjoin the church building.QŽerotínovo náměstí 1,
keep you busy for an entire day. Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 603 28 29 75, www.svatymichal.cz.
Open Wed 10:00 - 12:00 & 14:30 - 15:30. Fri 14:30 - 15:30.
RESTAURANTS ST. WENCESLAS CATHEDRAL
KONVIKT St Wenceslas’ Cathedral with its two-tower face is an
Located in the university, Konvikt offers a modern space, integral part of the city skyline. The third, the southern
relaxed setting and a great garden. Creative dishes include tower standing 100.65 meters high, is the tallest church
chicken ratatouille with ricotta and pesto and a salad with tower in Moravia (and the second highest in the country).
avocado and gorgonzola.QUniverzitní 3, Olomouc, tel. The three-naved hall of the church comes from the
(+ 420) 731 81 58 01, www.konviktrestaurant.cz. Open original medieval layout. The Appanage Prince Svatopluk
10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. commenced the construction of the Cathedral in 1104-
1107. His son Wenceslas continued with the construction
MORAVSKÁ RESTAURACE OLOMOUC and handed over the unfinished building to Olomouc
For a fine dining evening, visit Moravska for their traditional Bishop Jindřich Zdík before his death. The unfinished
Moravian food, as well as international specialties. building was consecrated in 1131. It was completed in
Their fortes include Moravian sparrow (actually slices of 1141 and it became an episcopal Church. The original
pork) with cabbage and potato dumplings and a very three-nave Romanesque basilica has undergone numerous
hearty goulash with both beef and sausage.QHorní modifications and reconstructions. The cathedral was
náměstí 23, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 585 22 28 68, www. completely rebuilt into a Gothic style after a fire in 1265.
moravskarestaurace.cz. Open 11:30 - 23:00. It got - indeed, like the whole interior and exterior of the
building – a Neo-Gothic appearance at the end of the19th
century.QVáclavské náměstí, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 731
CHURCHES 40 20 36, www.katedralaolomouc.cz. The Crypt is open
CHAPEL OF ST JOHN SARKANDER from May until September 10:00 - 13:00 & 14:00 - 17:00,
The Neo-baroque chapel of St John Sarkander is a two- Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
storeyed building crowned with a dome with a lantern
opening. In the middle of the chapel, there is a circular
opening into the basement, where a torture rack from GETTING TO OLOMOUC
Sarkander’s time has been situated. The interior of the chapel
is impressively illuminated. Daylight from the lantern opening Located in the middle of Moravia, Olomouc is easily
penetrates through the circular hole in the floor down to the accessible from all parts of Czech Republic and is a
basement. In the past, the city prison where John Sarkander great base for exploring the region.
was interrogated and tortured to death in 1620 was located
on the site of the Chapel. John Sarkander was accused by BY BUS
Protestants of having helped to arrange the invasion of the If you are coming from Prague, a train is your best bet
army of the Polish Catholic King into Moravia. However, he - buses are long and involve at least a few changes.
did not violate the Seal of Confession during the torture and From Brno, Ostrava or other Moravian cities, a bus may
was therefore canonized by Pope Pope John Paul II. during be faster and more convenient. Check www.idos.cz for
his visit to Olomouc in 1995.QNa Hradě, Olomouc, tel. (+ schedules.
420) 585 22 39 15, www.svatymichal.cz. Open 09:00 -
13:00 & 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon (July and August).10:00 BY CAR
- 12:00 & 13:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon (Sep-June). From Prague Olomouc is 284 kilometres east if you take
the fastest and most direct route. You’ll travel the D1 to
ST MICHAEL’S CHURCH Brno and then head north from there via Vyškov and
The three domes of the St. Michael’s Church are one of Prostějov. For a longer more scenic route you can take
the most distinctive landmarks of the city. This Baroque the northern route via the E442 from Hradec Králové.
church was rebuilt from the original Gothic church and Olomouc is easily accessible by car from Poland,
was consecrated probably in 1251. Outer walls and a vault Slovakia and Vienna too.
at the end of the presbytery have been preserved of the
original early Gothic building. The church was rebuilt into BY TRAIN
the current Early-Baroque form in 1673-1686 as proposed OLOMOUC MAIN RAILWAY STATION
by G. P. Tencalla. The interior was re-decorated in the QJeremenkova 103/23, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 972
Baroque style after the fire of 1709. In the years 1892 -1898 74 14 90/(+420) 840 11 21 13, www.cd.cz.
the church underwent a Neo-Baroque reconstruction.
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 55
 Olomouc
MUSEUMS
ARCHDIOCESAN MUSEUM
The Archdiocesan Museum is housed in the renovated
buildings of the chapter deanery on Wenceslas Square. The
tour includes the Romanesque Bishop’s Palace (formerly
known as the Přemyslid Palace) and the Chapel of St.
Barbara.
The sightseeing of the renovated buildings is a unique
experience of its own. They demonstrate the architectural
and artistic progress at the site of the so-called Olomouc
castle on Wenceslas hill throughout the last millennium
- from the remains of the royal palace through the high
Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance periods to the late
Baroque and Rococo interiors. Arion Fountain
The permanent exhibition of the Museum introduces Liechtenstein-Castelcorn. From the attic you can climb to a
visitors to the spiritual culture of the Olomouc Archdiocese. lookout glass turret, from where you can get an interesting
A picture gallery shows marvellous paintings collected view of the historical city center.QDenisova 47, Olomouc,
by Olomouc bishops since the 16th century. A concert tel. (+ 420) 585 51 41 11, www.olmuart.cz/en. Open
hall called “Mozarteum” is part of the premises. It has 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70/35Kč, Family
been named to commemorate the stay of the famous 140Kč.
composer at this place.QVáclavské náměstí 3, Olomouc,
tel. (+ 420) 585 51 41 11, www.olmuart.cz/en/olomouc-
archdiocesan-museum/. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed PALACES & VILLAS
Mon. Admission 70/35Kč, Family 140Kč. Admission free ROMANESQUE BISHOP’S PALACE
on Sun and every first Wed of the month. The Romanesque Bishop’s Palace, formerly better known
as the Přemyslid Palace, is located on the Wenceslas Hill.
MUSEUM OF MODERN ART Its name is associated with Moravian Appanage Princes of
The Museum of Modern Art in Olomouc is located in an the Přemyslid dynasty who had their castle here in the 11th
Art Nouveau building at the Republic Square and contains century already. The preserved parts of the palace buildings
collections of fine and commercial arts. The so-called „Three- however, come from the later era of the Bishop Jindřich
nave hall“(Trojlodí) and the cabinets on the first floor serve Zdík. It was him who built next to the Cathedral Basilica a
to hold temporary exhibitions of Czech and international Bishop’s Palace in the first half of the 12th century. The palace
art. The Museum specializes in visual art of the 20th and 21st belonged, as per the preserved stonework, to the very top of
centuries. It holds long-term and short-term exhibitions of European Romanesque residential architecture.QVáclavské
Czech and foreign modern art. One of the most successful nám. 4, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 585 51 41 11, www.tourism.
exhibitions has been the one of Victor Vasarely, founder of olomouc.eu. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. (May-Oct).
the famous art direction op-art, as well as the exhibition of
most popular Czech painter and illustrator Josef Lada. VILLA PRIMAVESI
On the second floor there is a permanent exhibition This Art Nouveau villa of the Viennese style has a layout
devoted to Dutch painting of the 16th to 18th century from of an English hall. The villa is located in a garden above
the collection founded by the Bishop of Olomouc, Karl II. of the city walls and is sensitively incorporated into the
historic city center. The villa was built as a home of the
banking family of Otto and Eugenia Primavesi. The interior
decoration was created by leading artists of that time. One
of them was the family friend Anton Hanak, who designed
the dining-room’s panelling with the copper fountain
„Viva Aqua“, the night-watchman’s statue and a number
of other works of art. Other noted artists who took part in
the villa’s decoration included the designer and architect
Josef Hoffman and the painter Gustav Klimt. Only a fraction
of the artistically valuable original decoration of the villa
has been preserved: the mosaic in the lobby, a fountain in
the hall and a pillar with a statue of Prayer in the garden.
Today the villa is partially open to public in the form of the
Primavesi Gallery.QUniverzitní 224/7, Olomouc, tel. (+
420) 585 23 48 16, www.vilaprimavesi.cz. Open 08:30 -
12:30 & 13:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun, Mon.
Chapel of St. Anne Admission free.
56 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Olomouc
PLACES OF INTEREST
HOLY TRINITY COLUMN
The Holy Trinity Column in Olomouc dominates the city
centre and its grandiosity easily takes the visitor’s breath
away. It is the largest group of Baroque statues within a
single sculptural monument in Central Europe. The column
reaches a 32 metres height and its lower part houses a
seasonally accessible chapel. Since 2000 the Holy Trinity
Column has been present on UNESCO World Heritage List.
The sculptural decoration comprises 18 stone sculptures of
saints, 12 light-bearers and 6 relief busts of the apostles. The
column is dominated by gilded copper sculptures of the
Holy Trinity on the top and the Assumption of the Virgin
beneath it. The overall sculptural decoration has a natural
and harmonious appearance and is due to its uniqueness
certainly worth attention.QHorní náměstí, Olomouc, tel.
(+ 420) 585 51 33 85, www.olomouc.eu. The Column’s
interior is open Apr - Sep 09:00 - 14:00.

TOWN HALL WITH ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK

The Olomouc Town Hall building, which dominates the
Upper Square (Horní náměstí), has been for more than six
centuries a symbol of economic and political importance baroko.olomouc.eu
of the former royal capital of Moravia.Today it is the most
important monument of non-religious architecture in
Olomouc and, besides the Archbishop’s Palace and six Olomouc
ancient churches, it is the only monument with public or
representative function still serving its original purpose
today, accommodating the headquarters of the elected
Baroque Festival
city government and its office.
The Olomouc Astronomical Clock is situated in the 29. 6.–22. 7. 2016
northern facade of the Town Hall. It is set into a 14 m high Jesuit Convent – Art Centre
pointed-arched recess. The present-day appearance of the of Palacký University
Clock dates back to the 50s of the 20th Century and bears the
traces of the former official aesthetic of socialist realism. The The 4th edition of summer nights with
mosaic decoration of the Clock is made of various portrayals musical theater, in the historical set-up
on the lateral sides of the recess depicting characteristic of the old city of Olomouc
work for each month of the year. The author of the design,
Karel Svolinský, introduced the folklore motif of the Ride of 6,30 pm
the Kings at the top of the recess. Figures representing the Welcome drink, visit to the exhibitions
different working classes are depicted in the lower part of the in the Jesuit Convent corridors
mosaic decoration.QHorní náměstí, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 7 pm – 9,30 pm
585 51 33 85, www.tourism.olomouc.eu. The visit is part of Opera performance; between the 1st and 2nd move-
guided tour Olomouc in a Nutshell. Daily from June 15th ments a coffee break on the newly opened courtyard,
till September 30th at 09:30, 11:00, 12:30, 14:00, 15:30 and and a visit to the Corpus Christi Chapel
17:00. Admission 70/35Kč, Children under 6 free. 9,30 pm
Commented night sightseeing tour of the St John
Sarkander Chapel and the St Michael Church
HOTELS
PENZION NA HRADĚ A special stay packages offer with
Penzion Na Hradě offers 4-star accommodation close to the tickets for two from CZK 1,990 at:
Old Town Hall.QMichalská 4, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 585 www.stayovernight.eu
20 32 31, www.penzionnahrade.cz. P­i­L­G­W
General partners:
THE ARIGONE
The Arigone is a stylish hotel with a restaurant and wine
bar.QUniverzitní 20, Olomouc, tel. (+ 420) 585 23 23 51,
www.arigone.cz. H­K­w
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 57
 Pilsen

Pilsen’s main square features a trio of gold fountains

A city traditionally of industry and beer, Pilsen (Plzeň) the tower for great views across the region. The houses
is keeping true to its roots while moving decidedly on the square include glimpses of medieval, renaissance,
contemporary. Chosen as one of the European Capitals of baroque, gothic and more. The streets surrounding the
Culture in 2015, upgraded buildings, new cultural venues square are also good for a wander. In doing so, keep your
and the enjoyment that came from a lively events calendar eyes peeled for sgraffito decoration featuring themes from
have luckily remained and there’s lots to see and do, both Czech history. Most of these were done between 1894 and
old and new here today. 1898 by famed Czech artist Mikoláš Aleš. He was a great
The city dates back to 1295, and at one time was the friend of well-known architect Rudolf Štech who was from
third largest in the country, after Prague and Kutna Hora. Pilsen, and Aleš decorated many of his buildings.
Lucky for beer lovers the world over, the ruler at the time, Of course, no visit to Pilsen would be complete without
King Wenceslas II endowed the city with the right to brew touring the brewery. It is actually interesting, educational
beer. The city flourished mainly due to its location at the and highly recommended. If you can keep yourself out
confluence of four rivers (Úhlava, Úslava, Radbuza and of the Pilsner filled pubs, other city highlights include
Mže) which meant it was a perfect crossroads for trade, the Patton Memorial Museum and the Pilsner Historical
especially goods coming from the direction of what is now Underground.
Germany. A couple of fires in the 16th century destroyed Pilsen makes for a full and fun day trip from Prague,
much of the town centre which was curiously rebuilt by but you could probably justify a couple days here making
many Italian architects and builders. Baroque also played the most of the green spaces, laidback fun and variety of
a big part in the city’s style, and the tourist information cultural options.
bureau offers a cool map that plots out a walking tour of
the town to take in some of the best preserved buildings.
But it was the 19th century and the launch of two
famous brands that brought Pilsen true renown: Škoda
GETTING TO PILSEN
Works and the Bürgerbrauerei, today’s Pilsner Urquell. BY CAR
Škoda Works was the largest engineering enterprise in the Pilsen is 90km from Prague along the D5 motorway. The
Austro-Hungarian Empire. drive in normal traffic takes no longer than 50 minutes.
The University of West Bohemia is located here which
gives the town a younger, more alive vibe. With 170,000 BY TRAIN
inhabitants, Pilsen is small enough to be relaxed, but big Trains for Pilsen depart at least every half an hour (more
enough to keep you amused. Any visit should start at frequent during the day) from Prague’s main station.
the city’s main square. It is huge, and home to a variety Note however that the journey time, at around 95
of markets and other fun activities throughout the minutes, is much longer than for the bus, and the price
year, including a Christmas market. The Cathedral of St. of a ticket, at 120Kč, costs more.
Bartholomew is open to the public, and be sure to climb
58 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Pilsen
urban planning. The checkerboard street plan and spacious
ATTRACTIONS central square offer overwhelming proof of this. Amidst the
TECHMANIA AND 3D PLANETARIUM vibrant mosaic of townhouses, towers and chimneys you’ll
The Techmania Science Centre, one of the newest tourist be able to easily pick out the city’s prominent landmarks
destinations in Pilsen, is housed in a renovated factory – the slender tower of St John of Nepomuk Church in the
building in the Škoda Plzeň complex. This modern south and the Great Synagogue to the southwest. Looking
interactive centre demonstrates that science is not just westward you’ll see all the way to the zoo and botanical
about research, but is also a possible source of fun. An area garden; the Pilsner brewery is in the east.
of 3000 square metres offers exhibits focused on physical The city is surrounded by hills. In the southeast you’ll easily
games, experiments and scientific news or the exposition recognise Radyně Hill and the castle ruins atop the hill.
called MáToHáček, a collection of original scientific toys (not Work started on St Bartholomew’s Cathedral shortly after
only) for children. In the permanent exhibit on the history the city was founded. The 58-metre long, 30-metre wide
and modern-day Škoda Plzeň one can admire unique cathedral features breathtaking net vault ceiling that is 25
technical items – the first locomotive with a fibreglass body metres high. At the centre of the Neo-Gothic altar you’ll see
(1963), the only surviving trolleybus type 3Tr3 (1947) and the city’s most valuable treasure – a 134-centimetre tall
the oldest surviving electric locomotive produced in Pilsen statue of the Virgin Mary and the Christ Child, the Madonna
3D planetarium of Pilsen. It was created in around 1390 and is now
The unique 3D Planetarium was opened at Techmania considered a masterpiece of European Gothic sculpture.
Science Centre in November 2013. The soulful expression on the Virgin Mary’s face, unusual
Two domes form the heart of the planetarium. The largest for its time, gave cause for numerous legends – including
is 14 metres in diameter and can seat up to 90 visitors. From one about a young Franciscan monk’s hopeless love for the
outside it looks like an enormous burning Sun with planets daughter of a local merchant.
revolving around it. The second, smaller dome seats 40. The To cure his unhappy love, the abbot ordered a young artist
Planetarium also houses twenty-seven interactive exhibits to carve an argillite statue of the Virgin Mary. The monk
where you can see for yourself how a tornado works, a worked without interruption.
volcano erupts, a rocket takes off, an astronaut feels during He did not sleep or eat and allowed no one to see the
training and much more. statue until it was officially unveiled. When it finally was,
Sky-Skan technology allows three-dimensional films to be everyone was shocked. They immediately recognised
projected on a curved surface, allowing the viewer to feel that the Madonna’s face was a faithful reproduction of the
as if the stars are within reach and it’s the only place in the burgher’s daughter. The abbot severely punished the monk
Czech Republic which is able to project 3D films onto a for such blasphemy and had the statue covered up in the
spherical surface. As a result, visitors see three-dimensional deep cellars. Only after all of the people involved in the
objects not only in front of them, as they would in a incident were long dead could the Madonna be brought
standard cinema, but also all around them. Under the back up to the altar of St Bartholomew’s Cathedral, where
larger dome, audiences can watch a film about astronauts it remains to this day.
and feel as if they are right in the space shuttle’s cargo hold. To the right of the altar, enter the Sternberg Chapel to see
Under the smaller dome they can see planet surfaces and another precious object. The rare Art Nouveau altar won
curious phenomena. first prize in the category of ecclesiastical art at the World’s
In addition to cutting-edge 3D and 2D international Fair in Paris in 1900.Qnám. Republiky 35, Plzeň, tel. (+
educational films, locally-produced films are also screened, 420) 728 308 761, www.temporaliabona.unas.cz. Open
such as “Obloha nad” (The Sky Above) and “Krásy vesmíru” 10:00 - 16:00.
(The Beauties of the Universe). The section titled “Science
on a Sphere” includes an interactive globe that screens 500 THE GREAT SYNAGOGUE
short films and educational programmes.QU Planetária The Great Synagogue, built in Moorish-Romanesque style
2969/1, tel. (+ 420) 737 24 75 85, www.techmania. in 1892, is the largest synagogue in the Czech Republic and
cz. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00, Though the the second largest in Europe after the Dohany Synagogue
planetarium is open daily, advance reservations are in Budapest. There have been several periods of Jewish
recommended online. Admission 180/110Kč. Family settlement in Pilsen; in 1938 the city’s Jewish community
ticket 470Kč. Children under 4 free. was composed of 3,200 members.
The Great Synagogue recalls this era – and the subsequent
period of Nazi occupation that almost completely
CHURCHES & SYNAGOGUES decimated the local Jewish community. The synagogue
ST. BARTHOLOMEW’S CATHEDRAL survived the war solely because the Germans used it
The best way to get acquainted with Pilsen is to look out to store military material. The unique building’s superb
from the highest point – the tower of St Bartholomew’s acoustics help make the concerts often held here
Cathedral. With a height of 102.6 metres, it is the tallest absolutely unforgettable.QSady pětatřicátníků 11, Plzeň,
church tower in the Czech Republic. Climb up the 301 tel. (+ 420) 377 23 57 49, www.zoplzen.cz. Open 10:00 -
steps and you’ll discover that Pilsen is a city that was laid 18:00. Closed Sat. November-March open only by prior
out based on the most modern principles of mediaeval arrangement.
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 59
 Pilsen
MUSEUMS
BREWERY MUSEUM
The Brewery Museum is housed in an original brewing
house from the 15th century. The legend of beer and
beer history dating back to the Middle Ages can be
experienced including a malt house, malt kiln, brewery
lab equipment and a collection of Czech beer bottles.
QVeleslavínova 6, Plzeň, tel. (+ 420) 377 23 55 74,
www.prazdrojvisit.cz/en. Open 10:00 - 18:00 (Apr
- Sep). 10:00 - 17:00 (Oct - Mar). Tours 90/60Kč. The
tour includes Pilsner Urquell beer tasting (0.3 l) – for
adults only.
BREWERY TOURS PATTON MEMORIAL PILSEN
PILSNER URQUELL BREWERY On 6 May 1945, the US Army liberated Pilsen. To
The first batch of beer filled the air of the Burgher’s Brewery celebrate the 60th anniversary of this event, the Patton
on 5 October 1842. This was when the exceptionally light, Memorial Pilsen museum was established. Named for the
bottom-fermented Pilsner Urquell was born. The beverage legendary military commander, the museum contains
became the model for pilsner beer, which now accounts for period photographs of Pilseners with US soldiers, period
70 per cent of all beer brewed worldwide. The company’s English-language newspapers, authentic uniforms,
essential symbols are the Neo-Renaissance portal from gear and weapons, chewing gum, cigarettes and even
1892 and a water tower from 1907 that is reminiscent of unopened tins of food that remained in Pilsen after
a Dutch lighthouse. The fifty-metre high building stands the liberators departed.QPobřežní 10, Plzeň, tel. (+
on the former executioner’s hill, where Chodsko’s most 420) 377 32 04 14, www.patton-memorial.cz. Open
famous native son, rebel leader Jan Sladký Kozina, was 09:00 - 13:00 and 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entry
killed in 1695. 30 minutes from closing times. Admission 60/40Kč.
The tour of the brewery starts at the Visitor’s Centre, Family ticket 120Kč.
in the building housing the original wort cooler. The
guide will lead you to areas associated with the history PILSEN HISTORICAL UNDERGROUND
of the Pilsner Urquell legend as well as to areas where Pilsen’s underground is one of the most popular sites in
beer is brewed today. In addition, you’ll see one of the the city. The nearly 20-kilometre labyrinth of corridors
most modern bottling lines in Europe, a panorama and cellars weaves through the heart of the city. The
cinema, a unique exhibit of beer ingredients and an 800-metre tour of the underground acquaints visitors with
historical and a modern brewhouse. The highlight the history and functions of the underground corridors,
of the tour is a visit to the historical beer cellars, cellars and wells. The corridors served not only to store
where visitors of drinking age can taste unfiltered, food, but – according to legend – also as escape routes if
unpasteurised Pilsner Urquell tapped directly from the town ever came under siege. It is said that one could
an oak lager barrel. Even on the hottest of summer take the corridors even as far as beyond the town ramparts.
days, though, be sure to take a warm jacket with you. According to other legends, there are numerous treasures
It is only 4°C (39°F) in the cellars.QU prazdroje 7, tel. embedded in the walls of the mysterious cellars below
(+ 420) 377 06 28 88, www.prazdrojvisit.cz. ​O pen some of the houses.
08:00 - 18:00 Apr - Sep), 08:00 - 17:00 (Oct-Mar). It is interesting to note that there is an unusually high
Tours in English every day at 10:45, 13:00, 14:45, number of underground wells. Several hundred have
16:30. Tours 200/120Kč. been found in a small area of the mediaeval town. As
each house had several wells, it comes as little surprise
that Pilsen’s burgers “grabbed” all the water resources. As
PLACES OF INTEREST a result, they had to build a water tower and water wheel.
NÁMĚSTÍ REPUBLIKY This pumped water from the functioning wells into the
The town square is situated at the very core of the water tower, from where it travelled to the fountains on
historical downtown area. At 139 by 193 metres, it is the main square. A replica of the original water wheel
one of the largest Gothic town squares not only in can be seen in the waterworks exhibit when you tour
Bohemia, but in all of Europe. This is where you can feel the Pilsen underground.QVeleslavínova 6, Plzeň, tel.
the heartbeat of the city. Republic Square is the natural (+ 420) 377 235 574, www.plzenskepodzemi.cz/en.
centre for cultural events, celebrations and markets. In In July and August English language tours take place
addition to St Bartholomew’s Cathedral, the square is at 11:20 and 14:20. Check their website for times
dominated by three modern gold fountains and a 17th from September onwards. Tours in English 120/90Kč.
century plague column.QNáměstí Republiky, Plzeň, Family ticket (up to 2 adults and up to 3 children
www.visitpilsen.eu. 260Kč.
60 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Pilsen
RESTAURANTS
NA SPILCE
Located on the grounds of the Pilsner brewery, and in the
CITY of PILSEN
brewery’s former fermentation cellar, you won’t get more
authentic than Na Spilce. Their specialties are pork, but
More than just beer!
salads, steak, fish and chicken can be had as well. And you
know the beer ought to be nice and fresh.QU Prazdroje
The West Bohemian metropolis is well-
7, Plzeň, tel. (+ 420) 377 062 755, www.naspilce.com.
Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. -known for its beer. It was also awarded
the title of the European Capital of Cul-
POTREFENÁ HUSA PLZEŇ ture 2015. The picturesque historical
The ambiguous Staropramen restaurant is also in the centre with nice parks, multiple events
heart of Pilsner Urquell land. Stylish design and a creative and relaxing atmosphere make Pilsen
Czech menu, if you’ve burned out on Pils, head here for a a little paradise. Even you should open
different beer. Their menu is a bit fresher as well, including it for yourself.
fettuccini with salmon and a grilled chicken steak with
vegetable ragout for those who may be feeling bloated
with pork and dumplings.QMartinská 10/1, Plzeň-
Jižní Předměstí, tel. (+ 420) 377 32 08 32, husaplzen.
janakbros.cz. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 -
24:00. (118-279Kč).

U SALZMANNŮ
For the best Bohemian cuisine in Plzeň, visit U Salzmannů
for some beef with cream sauce, goulash or roasted pork
knee. A typical pub atmosphere, the place is popular
with locals thanks to their generous helping of stick-to-
your-ribs Czech staples.QPražská 90/8, Plzeň-Vnitřní
Město, tel. (+ 420) 377 23 54 76, www.usalzmannu.
com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
11:00 - 22:00.

TOURIST INFORMATION
TOURIST INFORMATION 5 ATTRACTIONS YOU
All the who, what, when, where and why you need to know,
the friendly tourist info folks can help with accommodation, SHOULDN’T MISS:
attractions, maps, city transport and more. You can also
arrange tours and they have public internet access.QNám. → Republic Square
Republiky 41, Plzeň, tel. (+ 420) 378 03 53 30, www. with St Bartholomew Cathedral
pilsen.eu. Open 09:00 - 19:00 (Apr - Sep). 09:00 - 18:00
(Oct - Mar). → Pilsner Urquell Brewery
and Brewery Museum
→ Great Synagogue - the third
HOTELS largest in the world
COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT PILSEN
→ Apartment interiors designed
QSady 5. května 2699/57, Plzeň, tel. (+ 420) 373 37 01
34, www.courtyardpilsen.cz. P­T­J­H­A­U­F­ by the world famous architect
G­K Adolf Loos
→ Exhibition Baroque Art in the
HOTEL ANGELO Pilsen Region and West Bohemia
QU Prazdroje 6, tel. (+ 420) 78 016 100, www.angelo- (28th October - 20th March the
pilsen.cz. P­i­W hhhh Gallery of West Bohemia)
HOTEL CENTRAL
QNáměstí Republiky 358/33, Plzeň-Vnitřní Město, tel.
(+ 420) 377 22 67 57, www.central-hotel.cz. J­H­K­ www.visitpilsen.eu
D­w­W
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 61
 Shopping

ANTIQUES nám. Republiky 8, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+420) 224

V. ANDRLE 80 11 11, www.od-kotva.cz/en. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
Gold and jewellery galore, with online ordering available. 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. L
They also have various items of interest from the Cubist,
Art Nouveau and Art Deco periods.QE‑8, Křížovnická TESCO MY
1, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 16 25, www. Britain’s favourite store with a supermarket in the basement.
antiqueandrle.cz. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - The building is state-protected so be sure to appreciate the
18:00. architecture outside before going in for bargains inside.
QF‑9, Národní 26, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 222 81
51 11, www.itesco.cz. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00
DEPARTMENT STORES - 21:00. Supermarket open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 -
BÍLÁ LABUŤ 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
An ode to the past, historians and lovers of kitsch are highly
recommended to spend an afternoon here getting lost in
the loot.QH‑7, Na poříčí 23, MFlorenc, tel. (+420) 222 GALLERIES
32 02 27, www.bilalabut.cz. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat DOROTHEUM
09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. An auction house for all sorts of art and design objects. If
you miss the auction date, their gallery is fun to browse,
DEBENHAMS plus they offer daily e-shopping online.QF‑8, Ovocný trh
The English department store has made its mark.QG‑9, 2, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 22 20 01, www.dorotheum.
Václavské nám. 21, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 221 01 50 26, cz. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri 15:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
www.debenhams.cz/en. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 Closed Sun.
- 20:00.

KOTVA GIFTS
Experience Czech shopping as it used to be, pre-democracy. MANUFAKTURA
The building is an architectural landmark, believe it or not Fabulous place for authentic gifts to bring home, especially
and inside you’ll find a decent selection of shops and for yourself. A wide-range of Czech made products featuring
services, plus food options and kid’s area on the third floor. natural cosmetics crafted from wine, beer, Dead Sea salt and
Head up to the roof for fabulous views and beer. Or around more.QF‑8, Melantrichova 17, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 601
to the back for interesting food stands (pie, wine…).QG‑7, 31 06 11, www.manufaktura.cz/en. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
62 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Shopping
NOVÝ SMÍCHOV
GLASS Home to Tesco and more, this is an always packed place.
Try as you might, you’ll probably not escape the Czech A Cinema City and a bowling alley are on the top floor.
Republic without a piece of glassware, so you’ll at least QPlzeňská 8, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 251 10 10 61, www.
be able to impress your friends with a bit of history. novysmichov.eu. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Tesco hypermarket
The term ‘Bohemian Glass’ has come to refer to the open 06:00 - 24:00. U
type of glass developed in this country in the late 16th
century during the rule of Rudolph II. The following PALLADIUM
century glassmakers found a way to make glass with a Prague’s brightest mall. What used to be an army barracks is
crystal appearance, which could be covered with deep now home to a huge variety of shops. A gourmet floor and
engravings. Today the term tends to mean glass overlaid lots of restaurants means you could easily lose a day amidst
with colour, usually red, through which a design is cut the 5 floors of climate-controlled amusement.QG‑8, nám.
or etched. Republiky 1, Mnám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 225 770 250,
www.palladiumpraha.cz/en. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Thu,
ARTĚL Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Supermarket Open 07:00 - 22:00.
A smart spot on the Prague glass scene, which can be a
bit on the tacky side. The proprietor has a fun shopping SLOVANSKÝ DŮM
sense and you never know what you may find, be it books, High end retail shops, a multiplex cinema and Kogo restaurant
jewellery or other Bohemian treasures.QG‑8, Celetná 29, attract the right people at this central shopping centre.QG‑8,
MStaroměstské nám., tel. (+420) 224 81 50 85, www. Na Příkopě 22, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 45 14
artelglass.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00. 00, www.slovanskydum.cz/en. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

SHOPPING CENTRES SPECIALITY SHOPS

ARKÁDY PANKRÁC HARDDECORE
Arkády Pankrác is one of the best of Prague’s bazillion Wide range of Czech designer made goods including
malls. With a direct entrance from the Pankrác metro porcelain, notebooks, clothing, jewellery, home goods and
station and a lot of really good shops; this should be more.QH‑8, Senovážné nám. 10, MHlavní nádraží, tel.
a popular hang out. Blažek for men, Pierre Cardin and (+420) 775 41 72 30, www.harddecore.cz. Open 11:00 -
Pietro Filipi are just a few of the good ones, along with 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
consistent favs Next, Gant, H&M and Mango. And, they
have nine separate shoe shops! Unfortunately, the food TERRYHO PONOŽKY
court (everyone’s real reason for going to the mall) is a bit Inside the Kino Světozor box office lobby is this cool
disappointing; however they do have a branch of the fab shop for all things movie-manic: souvenir-tastic Czech
Lebanese restaurant, Safir.QNa Pankráci 86, MPankrác, language film posters, cool T-shirts, DVDs and books.
tel. (+420) 225 11 11 00, www.arkady-pankrac.cz/en. QG‑9, Vodičkova 41, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 94 68
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Albert supermarket open 07:00 - 29, www.terryhoponozky.cz. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
22:00. 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

ATRIUM FLÓRA
A very chic shopping centre, with over 120 shops, as well as TOYS
restaurants, cafés, a cinema multiplex and an IMAX theatre. GAMES & PUZZLES
All in the centre of Prague.QL‑10, Vinohradská 151, Game lovers can browse what’s hot on the Czech game
MFlóra, tel. (+420) 255 74 17 12, www.atrium-flora. and mind teaser market.QF‑10, Václavské nám. 38, tel.
cz/en. Open Mon-Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (+420) 224 94 65 06, www.hras.cz. Open 10:00 - 19:00,
Albert supermarket open 07:00 - 24:00. Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

ČERNÁ RŮŽE SPARKYS PALLADIUM

All the right shops and some fine extras in this larger-than- Children can be tamed in big massive malls with a stop
it-appears centre.QG‑8, Na Příkopě 12, MMůstek, tel. off at Sparkys. The toy store is a great mix of stuffed
(+420) 221 01 41 11, www.cernaruze.cz/en. Open 10:00 animals, games, cool hip toys and some retro ones as
- 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. well.Qnáměstí Republiky 1, MNáměstí Republiky, tel.
(+420) 225 77 17 50, www.sparkys.cz. Sun-Wed 09:00 -
MYSLBEK 21:00, Thu-Sat 09:00 - 22:00.
Small shopping centre on Na Příkopě. Also works as a nice
passageway to Ovocný trh.QG‑8, Na Příkopě 21, MNám.
Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 23 95 50, www.ngmyslbek.cz/
en. Open 09:00 - 20:00. vine.co/inyourpocket

facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 63

 Leisure

There’s plenty to do outside in Prague in the summer

BEACHES & LAKES INDOOR ACTIVITIES

Beaches...? Yes, despite being a landlocked country, and PLANETARIUM
actually because we are in a landlocked country, the Prague’s planetarium, opened in 1960, is the largest in
beaches have been brought to us. Enjoy and don’t forget the Czech Republic and one of the largest in the world.
the sunscreen. Its astronomical dome can accommodate 250 people
and it houses three projectors in one building. Go to see
DIVOKÁ ŠÁRKA shows of the stars (the astronomical kind) as well as the
A lake and lots of open space to walk and bike on the permanent exhibition.QG‑3, Praha 7, Královská obora
outskirts of Prague. This nature reserve has a public 233, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+ 420) 220 99 90 01,
pool and reservoir, kids’ areas, plus a pub. Tram 26 to www.planetarium.cz. Admission 50 - 150Kč.
Nad Džbánem, you’ll see the park sprawling behind a
McDonald’s.QPraha 6, Divoká Šárka 41, MDejvická, tel. SEAWORLD
(+ 420) 603 72 35 01, www.koupaliste-sarka.webnode. A loop audio tape of tidal wash envelops Prague’s little
cz. Open May - Sep 09:00-19:00. Public pool admission: known aquarium, Mořský Svět. The suspended manta ray
80/30Kč. T­B­K may be huge, but the tanks are small although well stocked
with tropical and fresh water fish. One tank has, we presume
ŽLUTÉ LÁZNĚ in honour of Finding Nemo, clown fish and a tang. Deadly
A vast part grass, part sand area for swimming (kids pool but beautiful scorpion and turkey fish languish looking like
only last year), volleyball, football, climbing, petanque or fully sailed galleons, and soft corals billow in the current.
just hammocks for those less energetic. A good restaurant It’s not huge, but makes an interesting detour. Signs are
and beer garden, WiFi, a nude beach and DJs only add zest Czech only.QH‑3, Praha 7, Výstaviště, MHolešovice, tel.
to a sizzling day out. Tram N°s 3, 16, 17, 21, 52 to Dvorce. (+ 420) 220 10 33 05, www.morsky-svet.cz. Open 10:00
No dogs allowed.QE‑16, Praha 4, Podolské nábřeží, tel. - 19:00. 190/150Kč.
(+ 420) 244 46 37 77, www.zlutelazne.cz. Open 08:00
- 02:00. Admission 80/30Kč, free after 17:00. T­E­B­
K­C­W OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
ZOO PRAHA
Voted the fourth best zoo in the world in 2015, Zoo
Full contents online: Praha is a really cool zoo. Following the floods of 2002 (in
prague.inyourpocket.com which there was an unfortunate loss of animal life that
was broadcast round the world) many improvements to
64 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Leisure
infrastructure and the animal’s homes have been made. WATER PARKS
Big ones, like elephants, lions and tigers can be spotted,
but don’t miss the gorillas, penguins, kangaroos, giraffes, & SWIMMING POOLS
parrots, wolves and hyenas. Recent additions have AQUA PALACE
included an Indonesian Jungle and pavilion for a group Billing itself as the biggest water park in Central Europe,
of rare Indian crocodiles. Additional highlights include Aquapalace is the place to go for all your wet and wild fun.
the Gorilla Pavilion and African Jungle. Definitely the The massive complex includes three different indoor water
place to come to if you have little ones in tow – there’s adventures with slides, artificial waves and whirlpools;
an excellent petting zoo and kids play area. A train ride two aquariums to spot sea life and coral up close; 14
through the zoo, a chair lift ride above the zoo or wagon- different heating rooms as part of their Sauna World plus
like vehicles for the kids are available for tired tootsies. the opportunity to book facials and massages. There’s lots
Shaded, well-laid out paths make this a good visit, even of space and activities for children, restaurants and food
on warm days. stands and a hotel on site if one day is just not enough.
The zoo opened in 1931 and today spreads over 60 Qwww.aquapalace.cz.
hectares and is home to nearly 5,000 animals. Another
special aspect of Zoo Praha is their conservation
efforts. The facility was instrumental in preventing vine.co/inyourpocket
the extinction of Przewalski horses in the 60s and
has assisted with the reintroduction of a variety of
bird species across Central Europe as well as gorilla PODOLÍ
conversation in Central Africa and the gharial crocodile Two huge outdoor swimming pools along the river
in India. Concession stands are inside and there’s a with high diving boards, an indoor pool with funky self
restaurant near the entrance. Take bus 112 from metro propelled paddle boats, and a slide into the pool. There is
station Nádraží Holešovice.QD‑1, Praha 7, U Trojského also a beach for sunbathing plus a solarium and sauna –
zámku 3, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+ 420) 296 112 which have to be paid for separately. Take tram N°3 or 16 to
230, www.zoopraha.cz. Open 09.00 - 21.00. Open Podoli.QPraha 4, Podolská 74, tel. (+ 420) 241 43 39 52,
09.00 - 16.00 (Nov - Feb) March 09.00 - 17.00 (Mar), www.pspodoli.cz. Open 06:00 - 21:45. Sat & Sun 06:00
09:00 - 18:00 (Apr, May, Sep, Oct). Admission 200Kč. - 22:00. Admission 80/45Kč per 1.5 hour. Weekends
T­A­U­L­B­K 110/30Kč per day. T­B­K­D­C

facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket
Bez názvu-3 1 Summer
11.05.2016 2016
11:21:20 65
 Directory
AUSTRIA
24-HOUR PHARMACIES QC‑11, Victora Huga 10, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 09
LÉKÁRNA PALACKÉHOQF‑9, Palackého 5, 05 11, www.bmeia.gv.at/oeb-prag. Open 08:30 - 16:30.
MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 94 69 82. Open 24hrs. Closed Sat, Sun.

LÉKÁRNA U SVATÉ LUDMILYQH‑11, Belgická CANADA

37, MNáměstí Míru, tel. (+420) 222 51 33 96, www. Visas 08:30 - 12:30 & 13:30 - 16:00 only.QD‑5, Ve Struhách
lekarnabelgicka.cz. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, 95/2, MDejvická, tel. (+420) 272 10 18 00, www.
Sun 09:00 - 20:00. canadainternational.gc.ca/czech-tcheque/index.aspx.
Open 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
DENTISTS GERMANY
DENTAL OFFICE H33 QB‑8, Vlašská 19, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 11 31
Dental Office H33 is the centre for excellence in dental 11, www.prag.diplo.de. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 -
care, implantology and cosmetic dentistry. They provide 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
premium dental care to international standards. The team
of dentists, dental hygienists and assistents is prepared IRELAND
to provide the level and range of treatment desired by QC‑8, Tržiště 13, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 01
their demanding patients.QHvězdova 33 - Pankrác, 12 80, www.embassyofireland.cz. Open 09:30 - 12:30.
MPankrác, tel. (+420) 733 73 73 37, www.dental-office. Mon and Weds 09:30 - 12:30 and 14:30 - 16:30. Closed
cz. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sat, Sun.

UNITED KINGDOM
FOREIGN REPRESENTATIONS QC‑7, Thunovská 14, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420)
AUSTRALIAQG‑7, Klimentská 10, MNáměstí Re‑ 257 40 21 11, www.gov.uk/government/world/czech-
publiky, tel. (+420) 221 72 92 60, www.austrade.gov. republic. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
au. Open 09:00 - 13:00. Weds 09:00 - 13:00 and 14:00 -
17:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun. USA
Consular section 09:00 - 12:00 only.QC‑8, Tržiště 15,
MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 02 20 00, cz.usembassy.
Would you like to have a beautiful smile gov. Open 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
that you always wanted?
Are you scared from a dentist?
Try our experienced team of specialists who can
HOSPITALS
help you to gain your self-confidence back. NEMOCNICE NA FRANTIŠKU
We provide full range of dental treatments English is spoken.QF‑7, Na Františku 847,
including invisible braces, IV sedation MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 80 11 11, www.nnfp.cz.
or laughing gas for anxious patients.
Our friendly team will convince you MEDICAL CENTRES
that even a dentist can be your friend.
CANADIAN MEDICAL CARE
Canadian Medical Care Prague is a leading, well-established
private Czech clinic with a wide range of specialisations
that places strong emphasis on the highest quality medical
care.QVeleslavínská 1, MNádraží Veleslavín, tel. (+420)
235 36 01 33, www.cmcpraha.cz/en-US. Open 08:00 -
20:00, Mon, Fri 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun. A­W

HEALTH CENTRE PRAGUE

24-hour emergency service tel. 603 43 38 33/603 48 13 61.
Multilingual international staff, all branches of medicine.QF‑10,
Vodičkova 28, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 22 00 40, www.
doctor-prague.cz. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Hvězdova 44, Prague 4

tel. 733 737 337/241 410 001, Full contents online:
www.dental-office.cz prague.inyourpocket.com

66 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com

 Hotels
The Prague market is now saturated with hotel rooms of all 293 rooms (258 doubles, 33 suites). P­T­H­A­R­U­
size and description so finding one shouldn’t be a problem. F­L­G­K­D­C hhhhh
What might come as a surprise is the relative prices of
rooms compared to the prices of food and drink. Shop PRESIDENT
around and take a look at the list of hotels we’re confident QF‑7, nám. Curieových 100, MStaroměstská, tel. (+
to recommend here. 420) 234 61 41 11, www.hotelpresident.cz. 130  rooms
(7  singles, 65  doubles, 22  triples, 32  junior suites,
3  senior suites, 1  presidential suite). P­O­T­H­A­
CREAM OF THE CROP R­U­F­L­K­D hhhhh
ALCHYMIST GRAND HOTEL & SPA
QC‑8, Praha 1, Tržiště 19, MStaromětská, tel. (+ 420) RIVERSIDE HOTEL PRAGUE
257 28 60 11, www.alchymisthotel.com. 46  rooms QD‑11, Praha 5, Janáčkovo nábř. 15, MKarlovo nám.,
(26 doubles, 13 suites, 7 junior suites). P­H­AR
­ ­F­ tel. (+ 420) 225 99 46 11, www.riversideprague.com.
L­E­G­K­D­C hhhhh 45  rooms (45  apartments). P­H­AR ­ ­U­L­G­K
hhhhh
ARIA
QC‑8, Praha 1, Tržiště 9, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) SHERATON PRAGUE CHARLES SQUARE HOTEL
225 33 41 11, www.aria.cz. 52  rooms (27  doubles, QF‑10, Prague 2, Žitná 8, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. (+
5 suites, 2 apartments, 18 junior suites). P­T­H­A­ 420) 225 99 99 99, www.sheratonprague.com. P­J­
R­U­F­L­G­B­K­D hhhhh H­A­6­U­F­K­W hhhhh

BUDDHA BAR HOTEL THE AUGUSTINE

QG‑8, Praha 1, Jakubská 8, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. QD‑7, Praha 1, Letenská 12, MMalostranská, tel. (+
(+ 420) 221 77 63 00, www.buddha-bar-hotel.cz. P­J­ 420) 266 11 22 33, www.theaugustine.com. 101 rooms
A­F­K­D­W (85  doubles, 16  suites) J­H­U­I­F­BK ­ ­D
hhhhh
FOUR SEASONS
QE‑8, Praha 1, Veleslavínova 2a, MStaroměstská, tel. THE EMBLEM HOTEL
(+ 420) 221 42 70 00, www.fourseasons.com/prague. QE‑8, Platnéřská 19, tel. (+ 420) 226 202 500, www.
161 rooms (141 doubles, 20 apartments). P­T­H­A­ emblemprague.com.
R­U­F­L­G­B­K­D hhhhh
THE MARK LUXURY HOTEL PRAGUE
HILTON PRAGUE QG‑8, Praha 1, Hybernská 12, MNáměstí Republiky, tel.
QJ‑6, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1, MFlorenc, tel. (+ 420) 224 84 (+ 420) 226 22 61 11, www.themark.cz. 75 Total rooms.
11 11, www.prague.hilton.com. 788 rooms (20 singles, P­J­H­A­U­F­G­K hhhhh
646 doubles, 91 triples, 19 suites, 3 apartments, 8 junior
suites, 1  presidential suite). P­O­T­H­A­R­U­F­
L­G­K­D­C hhhhh UPMARKET
ANDEL’S
HILTON PRAGUE OLD TOWN QC‑12, Praha 5, Stroupežnického 21, MAnděl, tel. (+
QH‑8, Praha 1, V Celnici 7, MNám. Republiky, tel. 420) 296 88 96 88, www.andelshotel.com. 231  rooms
(+ 420) 221 822 100, www.hilton.com. 310  rooms (223  doubles, 8  suites). P­T­H­A­R­U­F­L­G­
(299 doubles, 10 suites, 1 apartment). P­TJ
­ ­H­A­ K­D hhhh
R­U­F­L­G­K­D­C hhhhh
ANGELO HOTEL
JOSEF QC‑12, Praha 5, Radlická 1g/3216, MAnděl, tel. (+
QG‑7, Praha 1, Rybná 20, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+ 420) 234 80 11 11, www.angelohotel.com. 168  rooms
420) 221 70 01 11, www.hoteljosef.com. 110  rooms (163 doubles, 2 suites, 3 junior suite ). P­H­A­R­U­
(8 singles, 102 doubles). P­H­A­R­U­F­LG ­ ­B­ F­L­G­B­K­D hhhh
K­W hhhhh
CHARLES HOTEL
LE PALAISQH‑12, Praha 2, U Zvonařky 1, MI.P. QC‑8, Praha 1, Josefská 1, MMála Strana, tel. 257 53 29
Pavlova, tel. (+ 420) 234 63 41 11, www.palaishotel.cz. 14/774 64 44 66, www.hotel-charles.eu. 31 doubles, 6
90 rooms (30 singles, 60 doubles). P­H­A­R­6­U­ apartments. P­J­U­W hhhh
I­F­G­B­K­D hhhhh
CLARION PRAGUE OLD TOWN
PRAGUE MARRIOTT QG‑7, Praha 1, Hradební 9, MNáměstí Republiky, tel.
QH‑8, Praha 1, V Celnici 8, MNám. Republiky, tel. 296 39 81 00, www.cpihotels.cz. 93 rooms (90 doubles,
(+ 420) 222 88 88 88, www.marriottprague.com. 3 suites). P­J­H6­ ­U­L­G­K­W hhhh
facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 67
 Hotels
JALTA HOTEL
QG‑9, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 45, MMuzeum, tel. (+
420) 222 82 21 11, www.jalta.cz. 94 rooms (89 doubles,
5 suites). P­T­HA ­ ­R­U­L­G­B­K hhhh

MAMAISON SUITE HOTEL PACHTŮV PALACE

PRAGUE
QE‑9, Praha 1, Karolíny Světlé 34, MStaroměstská,
tel. (+ 420) 234 70 51 11, www.mamaison.com/
pachtuvpalace. 50  rooms (50  apartments). P­W
hhhhh

MAXIMILIANQF‑7, Praha 1, Haštalská 14, MNám. Re‑

publiky, tel. (+ 420) 225 30 31 11, www.maximilianhotel.
com. 71 rooms (6 singles, 64 doubles, 1 suite). P­H­
A­R­U­G­K­W hhhh
Situated in the heart of Mala Strana, Prague’s
quaint Lesser Quarter – and adjacent to
MISS SOPHIE’S
the Baroque masterpiece, the Church of St
QG‑11, Praha 2, Melounova 2-3, MI. P. Pavlova, tel.
Nicholas, The Nicholas Hotel Residence aims to
(+ 420) 246 03 26 20, www.miss-sophies.com. 34 Total
be Prague’s most charming little hotel.
rooms. A­G­B­W hhhh

thenicholashotel.com MOTEL ONE

QH‑7, Na Poříčí 30, tel. (+ 420) 222 334 500, www.
motel-one.com/de/hotels/prag/.

SOVEREIGN
QG‑9, Politických vězňů 16, MMuzeum, tel. (+ 420)
242 45 45 45, www.hotel-sovereign.cz. P­J­A­F­
K­W hhhh

COURTYARD MARRIOTT FLORA THE ICON HOTEL

QL‑10, Praha 3, Lucemburská 46, MFlora, tel. (+ 420) QF‑10, Praha 1, V Jámě 6, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420)
236 08 80 88, www.marriott.com. 161 rooms (81 singles, 221 63 41 00, www.iconhotel.eu. 31  rooms (1  single,
64 doubles, 13 triples, 1 suite) Breakfast 9-16. P­H­A­ 28  doubles, 2  junior suites). P­H­A­R­UG ­ ­K
R­6­U­I­F­L­G­K­W hhhh hhhh

DOMUS BALTHASAR U ZLATÉ STUDNĚ

QC‑8, Praha 1, Mostecká 5, tel. (+ 420) 257 19 94 99, QC‑7, Praha 1, U Zlaté studně 166, MMalostranská,
www.hidden-places.com. 8 rooms (6 doubles, 2 suites). tel. (+ 420) 257 01 12 13, www.zlatastudna.cz. 20 rooms
A­R­G­K hhhh (17 doubles, 2 suites, 1 junior suite). P­A­R­G­B­K
hhhh
DOMUS HENRICI
QB‑8, Praha 1, Loretánská 11, MMalostranská, tel. (+
420) 220 51 13 69, www.hidden-places.com. 8  rooms MID-RANGE
(4 doubles, 3 triples, 1 quad). H­A­G­B­K hhhh ANNA
QI‑11, Praha 2, Budečská 17, MNám. Míru, tel. (+ 420)
FUSION HOTEL 222 51 31 11, www.hotelanna.cz. 24  rooms (8  singles,
QG‑9, Praha 1, Panská 9, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420) 226 22 10 doubles, 4 triples, 2 suites). T­A­R­G hhh
28 88, www.fusionhotels.com.
BEST WESTERN HOTEL PÁV
GRAND MAJESTIC PLAZA QE‑10, Praha 1, Křemencova 13, MKarlovo náměstí,
QG‑7, Truhlářská 16, MNáměstí republiky, tel. (+ 420) tel. (+ 420) 221 50 21 11, www.hotel-pav.cz. 81 rooms
211 159 100, www.hotel-grandmajestic.cz. (66 doubles, 15 triples). P­A­R­U­K­W

HOTEL CENTURY OLD TOWN PENTAHOTEL PRAGUE

Q​Na Porici 7, www.accorhotels.com/gb/hotel-3440- QK‑6, Sokolovská 54/112, MKřižíkova, www.
hotel-century-old-town-prague-mgallery-by-sofitel/ pentahotels.com. 226  rooms (147  doubles, 69  triples,
index.shtml. 10 quads). P­H­A­R­U­L­G­K hhh
68 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
 Hotels
SAX
QB‑8, Praha 1, Jánský vršek 3, MMalostranská, tel. (+ HOSTELS
420) 257 53 12 68, www.sax.cz. 22  rooms (2  singles, CZECH INN
17 doubles, 3 suites). P­A­U­G­K hhh QJ‑12, Praha 10, Francouzská 76, MNám. Míru, tel. (+
420) 267 26 76 12, www.czech-inn.com. 52 Total rooms.
A­G­B­K­W hhh
APARTMENTS
AMOUR HOTEL RESIDENCE HOSTEL FRANZ KAFKA
QC‑8, Praha 1, Malostranské nám. 5, MMalostranská, QKaprova 14/13, tel. (+420) 222 333 116, www.
tel. (+ 420) 257 53 55 78, www.amourresidencesprague. hostelfranzkafka.com/en.
cz. 9 rooms (6 doubles, 2 suites, 1 apartment). P­T­
A­R­G­W LITTLE TOWN HOTEL
QC‑8, Praha 1, Malostranské náměstí 11,
APPIA HOTEL RESIDENCES MMalostranska, tel. (+ 420) 242 40 69 64, www.
QB‑8, Praha 1, Šporkova 3, MMalostranská, tel. (+ 420) littletownhotel.cz. J­A­G­W
257 21 58 19, www.appiaresidencesprague.cz. 21 rooms
(10 doubles, 9 suites, 2 apartments). P­H­A­R­L­ PLUS PRAGUE
G­B­D­W hhhh QK‑2, Praha 7, Přívozní 1, MHolešovice, tel. (+ 420) 220
51 00 46, www.plusprague.com. T­R­U­L­B­K­D­
HUNGER WALL RESIDENCE C­W
QC‑10, Praha 5, Plaská 615/8, MAnděl, tel. 257 40
40 40, www.hungerwall.eu. 18  rooms (8  Junior Suite, PRAGUE SQUARE HOSTEL
8 Superior Suite, 2 Executive Suite). P­J­A­W QF‑8, Praha 1, Melantrichova 10, MMůstek, tel. (+ 420)
224 24 08 59, www.praguesquarehostel.com. J­G­W
THE NICHOLAS HOTEL RESIDENCE
QC‑8, Malostranske namesti 5/28, MMalostranská, SIR TOBY’S
tel. (+ 420) 731 452 791, www.thenicholashotel.com. QJ‑4, Praha 7, Dělnická 24, MNádraží Holešovice, tel.
9  rooms (6  doubles, 2  suites, 1  apartment). P­i­J­ (+ 420) 246 03 26 11, www.sirtobys.com. 27 Total rooms.
G­W A­G­B­W hh

Sir Toby’s upholds the finest of hostel Miss Sophie’s Hotel on one side of Perfect for groups – ultra-modern,
traditions with unique, comfortable the street, and on the other, Sophie’s chic design, great beds and bedding,
dorms and private en-suite rooms. Hostel and Bar. Catering to fun designer bathrooms. Generous
Generous breakfasts and free barbe- student groups, or more discerning breakfasts, fun bar, free wifi, and
ques in summer, free walking tours. guests wanting luxury on a budget. more. So much more than you’d
And so much more than you’d expect So much more than you’d expect expect from a hostel.
from a hostel. from a hostel.
sirtobys.com miss-sophies.com czech-inn.com

Featured in: New York Times, Elle, Glamour, El Pais, Washington Post, The Guardian
Unlimited, Let’s Go, Lonely Planet, Routard, The Rough Guide and many more...

facebook.com/PragueInYourPocket Summer 2016 69

 le ch
A B C D

K Bru
Na Va
© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.

sce

Bade
PRAGUE OLD TOWN

Tychonov
Pod Hradbami Mickiewicz

niho
vé ova
Scale 1:11 450 ráko
y Ho
1 cm = 114 m Milad U Píseck é brány

a
Gog
6 0 Na Ořec
h ovce 200 400 m
ol o
v
Strmá

Transport Museum y
Cukrovar k é hradb Chotkovy sady
ni c ká ova Mariáns
očk oat

UP
Pat ns & S
tag M

rašn éh
Jelení Garde da
nel Royal ahra Chotkova
nic ký tu k á z
Brus lovs
Krá

o mostu
U Brusnice

i U Br
í Daliborka Na Opyš uský
en
Jel Lumbeho zahrada íko
p Tower

Pod Br
ce e í př
sni elen lden Lan
Bru ní J Go
Dol

uskou
St. George's
Brusnic Basilica
va

e Horní Jelení příkop ká Malostranská (A)

Ji ř s
Keplero

řská
Čer

N o vý Viká
Svět
7
nínská

s
Zahrada St. Vitus Cathedral en á
Sternberg Na Baště ard U Zlaté studně nsk
Val d š t e j

Klár
Palace Old Royal eG
Na Náspu k ac Pedagogical Museum
Palace Pal
á

Archbishop's
Kapucíns

Palace ká
Černínská Kanovnická HRADČANY Valdštejnská
U K asár

s
Sněmovní

ten
Hradčanské zahrada

Tomášská
zahrada Loretánské nám.

Le
nám.
ká
Lo retáns Salm Palace
en

Loreta Schwarzenberg a d Thunovská

u

Palace Ke Hr The Augustine

Nerudova

e
Amour Hotel Vojanovy

inář
Domus Henrici Residence sady

Josefská
Jánská

se m
Úvoz St. Nicholas el

stí

n
Alchymist Cih

n á mě
Ján

Appia Hotel Residences

o
Grand Hotel & Spa Charles Kafk

éh
Malostrans k é
ňská
ský

Dům u velké boty Hotel M í še

ick
Pohořelec Břetislavova Moste
Tr žiště Little Town Hotel
vrš

už
c ká
ek

MALÁ STRANA

UL
Sax
Domus Sas
Aria Balthasar ká
8 Karlův

Karme
Karel Zeman m
Strahovské nádvoří
ská Museum

mpě
Strahovská zahrada
Vl aš litská Lennon Wall
Strahov Monastery

Ka
Na
Church of Our Lady
Victorious Harantova
Nebov

lý n ů
Nosticova
Lobkovická zahrada
Czech Museum

ových m
idská

of Music
S tr Hellichova
ah
ovs

U Sov
ká
Kampa Museum
vka
Petřín
Za S

Tower
Čerto
tadion e m

Mirror
Újezd

Labyrinth

9
Vše

nicular
hrd

Petřín fu Funicular Railway

ova

Říční
Olymp Petřín Victims of Communism
Memorial Mo
ijsk

Vítězná
á

Hunger Wall Residence Vítězná Střele

Vaníčkova

ostr
Květnice Plaská
Újezd

Mělnická

Jezdecká Petřínská
Janáčkovo nábřeží

10 Šermířská
Villa Park Strahov
Zborovská

Kinského zahrada
Vodní Dětský
ostrov
Elišky Peš
Štefánikov a
Kroftova
Str

Malátova
ah

Julián
ov
sk

va

kové
ý

ko
tun

m čic
dy ze Se
leč
el

Zubatého n
Drtinova

Pavla Šva
Ho

Ethnographic Museum
ch

c e nk á
eni be Arbesovo
lát Hře nám.
UP Na
Náb

há o
Tic Kořenskéh
11 U Nesypk
řežní

y
SMÍCHOV
Preslov

A B C D
a
 Lete
nsk
D E F G

ýt
Letenské sady
še

unel
ro
Letná Park ána Ja
aden

ž í Kapit
nábře
iho

Gog
ol o
6

Štefániků
va
Beneše
í Edvarda
nábřež

v most
y

Č e ch
e Dvořákovo nábřeží
eneš
da B Na Františku

ův m
břež í
var kovo ná
í Ed Dvořá Lannova

os t
U Br ž Lannova
uskýc bře

Nové Ml
h kas
áren Řásnovka
Post Museum
ná

Clarion Prague
Pod Br

Dušní
í

Old Town entská

řež

Klim

ýny
h
U Milosrdnýc

Anež
náb

Hradebn
Moods
uskou

dvora
a

ská
ovo

Kozí
av

lská
árk

Bře
ká (A)
JOSEFOV Hašta enick
á

ího

í
ho
K os
UŽ

Elišk
Souk
Vlt

Revoluční
vá ova

ecn
Bře BílkMuseum
ele

of Alchemy
7

U Ob
ho

y Kr
zné

vá - Speculum Alchemiae Maximilian Grand Majestic Plaza

Rámová
Klárov

ásno
ká
láv

e ňs
Na Re Old New á
Klausen sk
ky

jd i š ti
Rudolfinum Synagogue Synagogue Spanish Věz há lář
Dl ou

ho
Josef
uh
ř e ží

Kozí
Synagogue

rské
ts k á
opadu

High V Ko

Tr
e d ik
vo náb

Old Jewish lkovn

Máne
sů Cemetery Synagogue ě B en
v mos ná
17. list

t á Mas
Maiselova

Jewish
Alšo

Širok ná M asná Palladium

D uš
Pinkas Museum teč Kotva
K os íčí
ní
Synagogue Poř

Rybná
Maisel Synagogue

ská
T Na
ská

Malá
nám. Republiky

vor
ýn
Kapr Staroměstská (A)
e

Paříž

novy
ská
Czech

Týn
ova
inář

lod
Štupar tská
dy Tourism á
Jakubsk Buddha V Celnici
s tí
Jaroslav

Krá
u
Ungelt
Valent

ská
se m

lička
ná

el domu
mě

Cih
Ježek ná Týn Bar Hotel
ecního Nám. Republiky (B)

Temp
s ké ká U Ob
Žateck

Memorial
Týns
o

Kafka Museum S ta r o m ě s t
éh

inská

Four Seasons partská

lová
vnická

Old Town sq.

ick

Štu Municipal House

už

The Emblem Hotel House at the Waxwork Museum

Platnéřsk á White Unicorn Celetná Hybernská
Křižo

r tská Town Hall The Chocolate The House at the

iL nha
Karlův Rott Stone & Astronomical
Museum Black Madonna 8

Senováž
most / Ch Ž
a rles Brid Klementinum Bell House Clock elez ý tr
h
mpě

ge ná oc n
Prague Ov
K arlova Karlova Stavovské

ná
Myslbek Cinema City
Ka

Square Hostel divadlo pě Slovanský Dům

Na

ko
Liliová

Dorotheum
ela Pří Senovážné nám.
Michalská
Hus o va

ntr Na
Ha

Anenská
Jilská

ich
víř

OLD TOWN ov
sk

Ne
Smetana Museum
ch mlý n ů

Pa

a
á
á

ká
ick

Zlatá Zlatá

za
sk
zn

Mamaison Suite Hotel aM

otc ká

nk
va
á

Černá růže
va
N

odo
V K vels

ůs

a
Ry ích

Pachtův Palace Prague

á

Pro

Bethlehem Chapel Mucha Museum

sk

Náprstkov Vejv tku

Ha

tíř

a Museum of Communism
řeží

Pa Fusion Hotel

ká
Image Boršov sá
Náprstkovo
ípu
žT

Rů
s
Smetanovo náb

Black Theatre Museum Uhelný trh ržn řiš

Skoře VC

žo
Můstek (A/B)
í

i nd
ice J
á m ěst

Museum sk á pka

vá
Betlém
jna
Pe

. ří

ská
Na P

Po
Karoliny

n
rlo

vikt
28

li
vo

tic

K on
vá

Main
no

an
ký
erš

Unitas Pension Jun

gm Post Office va
vo
c

9
á

hv
týně

Oli
jsk

ě Our Lady of Snow

S v ě tl

m
ěz

tolo
Divadelní

ňů

Bar Františkánská Debenhams

é

zahrada
Sovereign
Tesco
dní
We

Náro C har v
n ce

Národní třída (B) átova

Miku

sla

a
Jungmannova

lov
sS

l
eta

Laterna Magika
Most Legií Op
q.
land
Voršils

Pala
/V

National Purkyňova cké

ác
ská

Theatre ho Jalta Hotel

lav

Střelecký
Vladislavova

sk
k
Diva delní

ostrov
á

F. Palacký and F.L. Rieger Memorial

én

vní
Opat

Ostro
ám
Spálená

V Já Muzeum (A/C)
ova

říc h
ovická

rchá mě
ViJ va
ičk

no
d

The ICON Hotel

Vo

Na S
lso

truz
e ká
Wi

tovic
OpaBest Western Hotel Páv
čkách
Masarykovo

Pštr

Lazarská
Museum
Šk o l s k á
Č ern
ossova

vská

10
e
nská

Pension
Ve Sm
Křem

anská

Navrátilova
á

Krako
Štěpá

Slovanský
NOVÉ MĚSTO
enco

Dětský
Vojtěšská
nábřež

ostrov ostrov
Mezibr
va

stí Řeznická
K arlovo námě
í

va
Příčná

ko b
Od

Myslí i o rů Čelakovské h o sady

nc
oře
ě s tí

Mánes Exhibition Hall Žitná

Zb MOSAIC
ěstí

Sheraton Prague
Karlovo nám

Na HOUSE
Legerova
áplavka

Na Zderaz e
Náplavní

Charles Square Hotel

m
Karlovo ná

V Tůn

Na Ry
tská n

bníčk
ích

Sokolská

u Hálkova
ábře

Sts. Cyril and Methodius

11
s

Karlovo nám. (B)

novomě
žní

os t Resslova
D Jiráskův m The Dancing
House E F Dahlia Inn
Ječná Miss Sophie's G I. P. Pavlova (C)
 Zoo Praha Troja Chateau á
C D E vsk F TROJA G H I J K L
Povlta Povltav
sk á
© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.

íků
ádn
1 tavská
1
Nová Povl PRAGUE CITY Bulo
vka

Trojská lávka
Vltava Povltavská

Most Barik
Vodá
cká Scale 1:21 500
1 cm = 215 m

Trojsk
Vltava

ý
0 250 500 m

most
vé
u líko
Varh Hotel

U Vody
2 Za Elektrárnou Hostel 2
Pa
p íre Church
em

el
ns ýn Praha-Holešovice Bondy h o

tun
ká ml U P Plus Prague Synagogue/Jewish centre
kým ní
Jan
erg

ský
ařs o Vrb am voz Museum
Vrbenskéh
kov

ova

neč
Cís ens enk Pří
y

e
vc

s ká
Za kéh Gallery

b
V Nádraží Holešovice (C) o
cov

ko

u
a

ýn

eS
B
ká
Jan

tru
Ml Monument
V

Za
Plynární
Štorch

hác
Ele

h
k Plynární
Přís

Tourist information

yzáns

á
ova

Or tenovo nám

trár
rny
k
tav

DOX Centre for ěstí

u

Cinema

Pa r t
apí
Rajská
a r s Ju

nou
Maď Contemporary Art

Jablonského
Stromovka

UP
áre
3 zov
a
Goe
Poupětova Poupětova
UU
ran Theatre 3
Železničářů

the
i e Concert Hall

ho
tě
Bub
iš

Chittussi
Bus station

tav

ho
Heineho

ens k

rně
á

ýs
Train station

Železničářů

Ma
Lapidarium UV U Průhonu
Na Viewpoint
Argentinská

va
tova jnická
evel Stro Subway line/station

rso
R oos Přístavní
Osadní

Štu
Bubens
Jankovcova

k
á
Česko
ma l í n s k á W o l k e rova ova Dělnická Libeňský most
tavní

V Háji

sk Šimáčk

V Sadec
Komunardů

á
lov ou oborou

h
P ří s

U Sma

Kr
ick
Koru

Schni
4 Sir Toby's 4
Na Maninách

d
Jano
nova U Akade mie Tovární

ká
ojn

Na

ny
Raisova ční Praha-Bubny

als
ltovny

Str
ánky

íc e
anda

Šmera

Ur
šta
rchova

vskéh
Roll U Stud Tusarova

lo

Zaj
o

Ka
ní Veletržní

i
Malířs
d r. na a

a
va
k o vcova

d
VT
Sochařs

Pelléova
Z ik m BUBENEČ ova Veletrž Palace Šternberkov

ma
Č
ká

Jan
unda W

dk

Po
ká

išin
Ja n

Ro
intra Ko

ě
U Garáží
Stupkova

Veverkova

Slá
run HOLEŠOVICE

echo
Divadlo Alfred Jateční

va
ova

Oven
US
em

Českos
č ve dvoře Heřmanova

Kame
loven t o rc e ná ch ní

par
Janovského

eck
ské

Haškova
Na Zá
ukt

ty
armá Na Výši dárny

nická
ké vo
ns Podplukovníka Sochora Vltavská (C)

dy
Viad

U Lete
Jaselská Jirečkova
Za

U Vorlík

ny
ů
Nad Š
á ova ského

šta
Jaselsk Slavíčk D ob r o v
Bubenská

5 5

Ka
Františka Křížka
ží

tolou

d
é adská Bubenské nábře

Po
orákov Letohr ána Jaroše
Milady H National Technical Museum
Kapit
Dejvická řeží
D u k elských hrdinů náb

Muzejn
í

í
Hradčanská (A) Le t Kosteln ká va
jcharu
e ns
ký t Skalec Vlta
Na Špe une
l PRAGUE OLD TOWN oš e

K Bru
Praha-Dejvice

Bad
Letenské sady a Jar
ch Štvanice

sce
le Letná Park
pitán

enih
Na Va ží K a
Hlávkův most

o
nábř
U Inv

Mickiewiczo
va
eží
nábř
alido

Tychono
6 á 6

va
linsk Roha
nské pentahotel Prague a Slezáka
Petr
neše Karo Hilton Prague
db y rda Be

Štefánikův
Chotkovy sady í Edva á
Hybe

ské hra el lovsk

Březi
š

břež Soko
o

Šaldo

Těšnovský tun
Kub o
v

Marián rada ná
h most
a

a
va

Č ech
á za va
vny U Invalid

nova

k Chotkov Dvořákovo nábřeží

lovs
Krá nábřeží Křižíkova (B)

ův m
Lannova
ovny

ši ákovo
Těšnov

p Na Opy Dvoř ní Karlínské

S tá r k o v a

ost
Řásn o v k a Pobřež

Pod B
sni
ce í příko
nám. KARLÍN it álsku
Klimentská

K o zí
Barvířská
Thám

Bru í Jelen
n Na Šp
Dol á ká

ruskou
ova

k
Hradeb

Malostranská (A)

kov
Dušní
Jiřs Petrské nám. Petrs
ní

cká

sár
ni
Kollá

Ke Š t
Prvníh

JOSEFOV ova
Bis

Bř a

av
ká
o

lská Souke Florenc (B)

Ko
eh Křižík

du
Bílkov
Peck

rova
Vítko

jns
va n

šta
up

7 ová
Bílá 7
rova

Perne
Zlatn

ká Ha ská
ici

Florenc (C)
va

Val d š t e
ova

há

opa
ská

eňs lář

Klárov
Labuť
pluku

Vlt o nábře ž í
Revoluční

Věz D l ou
HRADČANY Valdštejnská
T
ická

ruh

á
City Museum čka
Kozí

zahrada íčí Karlín Music Theatre K ališnická

Paříž
Máne Na Poř Praža

17. list
sů ná

nsk
a s

sk á
á M Motel ONE
v mos Eurolines Malého
t Masná
Ry b n á

Du

e čn

ete
Florenc

mášská
Thunovská Širok
ost
šn

Maiselov
Ha
 l S Florenc (B)

K
ře h
va

va
Kři

d
Bílk

s ku
7 ejn ová šta ro 7

tkov
á Bílá

rova

ps
Perne

nic

Zlatn
k Ha

ckov
ská

i
Florenc (C)

o plu
a
Val d š t

a
há

opa
ká
eňs lář

Klárov
Labuť

ku

Vlt
voluční
Věz D l ou
HRADČANY Valdštejnská

T
ická
ruh City Museum čka

Kozí
zahrada íčí Karlín Music Theatre K ališnická

ká
Paříž
Máne Na Poř Praža

17. list
sů ná

sk á

ens
v mos
t ná Masná Mas Motel ONE Eurolines Malého

Ry b n á

D
teč

uš
Thunovská Širok Florenc

Le t
á

í
Ko s Hilton Prague Old Town

Maiselova

Tomášská
nám. Republiky Na Florenci Bus Station

rsk
Nerudova Vojanovy Kapro
va ská

T ýn
Staroměstská (A) V Celnici Prague Marriott a

dvo
Ungelt kubská

o
National Memorial on Vítkov Hill ěvov
Ostr

Týn Ja

Havlíčkova
MALÁ STRANAsady á l

Luk
eln Old Town sq. Nám. Republiky (B) Kon ova

Krá
Štupar tská ín

áš
Žerot
o me

Trocnovská
Moste C ih

vnická
ova
ck
ova
Vlašská á Hybernská Praha
čsk

Tržiště Platnéř ská Celetná

á

ná
ar tská Masarykovo nádraží Husit
L inh sk á

Křižo
t rh Roháčova
Če s
8 Karlův m Že 8

Wilson
ný ěnická a

Or e
ost / Cha le

Karme
oc

mpě
Příb niov

Senováž
Dláždě

zn
kob

a
rles Brid
Ov
g b it
e Řehořova

á
Bolza ská Dalimilova Jese

ova
K arlova

ná
pě no v
ratr

Na K
íko

Ha

litská
Husinecká

va
va
Rokycanova
Senovážné nám.

v
o

Ne
Př
ská

Milíč

ířs
rk o
A nenská Pro

ká
ník
Na

á
ká
Chlumova

h
bu
Jubilee Synagogue ko

Jer

Jilská
Hus o va
za

lýnů
p

Liliová
sk
u

e
Bla

v
nk
Parukářka

Pa
Cim
Seifer tova

tíř
ova

a
zal
ady

Ha
ns

Ry l s k á

a
M ichalská
OLD TOWN

břeží
ká

ém

ká

Nosticova
šs
os
Náprstkova

ových m
Hellichova

dři
ská
Lu

Siwiecova

ov k
a C he

Jin
kéh
pá

Krásova
ská lčic

U Sov
SkořeUhelný trh íjn

Pe
.ř
Betlém

lic

r
pka Hlavní nádraží (C)

UR

Rů
Můstek (A/B)
kéh

28
h
a

lova
o
čova

Boři

lov
ská

Čert
v

žo
va

á
á
jsk
vikt Vlko

vá

Karoliny
k

Vrc
l e ta
Kon

Újezd
va

éz
ojov
T

ě js á
Čajko

vo
a

We
Op

Vše
áb Olšansk
Víta N ejedlého
om

Svě
Oli

ahr

ova
9 9

hr
c
Chvalova

Smetanovo ná
rtol Praha hlavní nádraží Rajská
o r i t sk á

tlé
Po
Ba

es
Františkánská

ady
zahrada

dov
vskéh

son

l i ti

a
ova
o

c
líkova Žižkov

las
zahrada

Divadelní
dní ký

S
Říční

Wil
Náro Národní třída (B) ch Kube Jewish Cemetery

q.
Ježk
L i ch
v

/
nick

á
Most Legií ěz á Vozová Tower Park
kého
Fi b i c

Vá
Vítězná ňů

lsk

c
nova Olšanské

ě
Střelecký kovs

Voršils
Křišťa
Prague va
Kříž hřbitovy

an

lav
ostrov o
hova

Helé

ká
a
Plaská n

Jungmannova
Šp

sk
í Muzeum (A/C) ská Riegrovy sady d říčk Courtyard

kov
Radho

V Já On

én

Újezd
O s trovn hářích
Blo

c mě Na ŽIŽKOV

dič
Mělnická
Sudom

Chopin
Marriott Flora

Vladislavova
V Jir

Spále ná
ám
Sm ošská
dk o

Vo
Baran

e Krkon
va
šťská

National nská
Slav

Ško
ova
ká t an
Mileš

Petřínská ce Jagello Atrium

ova
ěřská

tovic

Pštr
Museum
ov

urská

ká
Opa
íkov
Lau

lská
Lazarská Flóra
a

Lucemb

čkách

Divadeln í Masary
ská
Veleh

ská

nská

Če r n
e
a
bov

á
nská

ossov
a
ra
Jičínská

10 Navrátilova 10

Ital
Slovanský

a
Dětský rov Polská ská

ské

ova
Vodní Přemyslov

Krakovs
a ostrov ge
Orlick

Štěpá
ostrov
dská

Le

Ve Sm
á

kov

bí n
Řeznická

Vojtěšská
Rubešova
Mánesov

Leten
leč a a

Bal
Flora (A)

Elišky Pe
Mezibra
Ho ova O d b orů
Malátov Myslík Jiřího z Poděbrad (A)
U Kanálky

Škrétova

Kroftova
Vinoh
ra

Štefánikova
Řím
Třebízského

Žitná dská

Janáčkovo nábřež í
Anny

kovo nábřeží

škové
sk á Vinohradská
Zubatého

a
NOVÉ MĚSTO Angli
Bolesl

ck á

Náplavní
Sady Svatopluka Čecha
Čáslavs

Peruno
v

Na Ry
Kolíns

Arbesovo nám.
Libick

Zborovská
Náb
Karlovo nám. (B)
ká

Slezská
á

va

níčku Hálkova

Na Zderaze
Ibsenov
o
ká
a ská

tí
Kořenskéh Vo celov
U vodárny

řežní

Dr tinova
Resslova nám. Míru
Řipská

os t Ječná Miss Sophie's Blanická

měs
Jiráskův m Jugoslávská Korunní
Budečská

SMÍCHOV ice
Nitranská

Dittric
Sázavská

Beneš
Šumavská

otan Riverside Hotel Prague k á Náměstí Míru (A) ovská

Václavs
11 VB řins
I. P. Pavlova (C) Tylovo nám. Anna 11

hova
Kladská
Chorva

Salmovsk á

ká
Am
Chodská

ti
U vodárny

ate

Gorazdova
Matoušova K Dykova
eric

Nábř
Lípová
ská VINOHRADY Moravská

ojiš
tská

Antonín Dvořák

Karlovo ná
á

Portheimka
ká

B
Rumun

Štefánikova
Lesnická
Říčanská

Londý

sk á
oráni Museum ys k

ežní
Hradešínská

Na
Na M U Nemocnice gua Lužická

uz
Hotel Noir Uru Na Zájezdu

í
Kateřinská

nská
Palackého Belgick
r to náměstí 14. října
á

ny
Ka most zahrada Tyršova Na Šafránce

Ke K
Palackého nám.
Var

á Fra lovenská

lova
elsk nc o BezručovySsady

Viničná
šav

Lidická Ruská

arlov
Sokolská
Brus u zská

u
Norská

Pod S
Me

Eston ská

ova
ská
xi

á ch Czech Inn

Lublaň ká
Plzeňská ck
Ame

Na Bělidle á tsk ská Má á Bulharská

řeb
Finská

Andel's B en a V Voroněžská
rick
o

Anděl Záh Krymská

Legerova
á

r yk oR
arš

Kodaňská

Hořejš í nábřež
Vrázova á

Na Celné
Botanická asa zácká

novoměstská n
kéh yba

Stroupež
ářsk
avs

il ovs Heroldovy
k

zahrada UK polin Wenzigova Ša aM lkov Ko

á

ty Trojická A Šm a
á
Tolstéh

12 Jan sady 12
sk á

dřicha Plach K op
Čern o m

fař
Donsk

Anděl (B) Jin

á

íko ce ern Madri

nického
adská
insk

ořs

ov íkov dská

áplavka
va

Podsk alská
a
h r ad
ká

Angelo Hotel K le
e
Slov

š e hr
Vltavská
Na

Holandská
va Police
Běl

ká

Na S

Radlická
Vy
K licpero Le Palais

Kovák
Stud
ká

a
Museum šic

Rašínovo ná

Vltava

ů
Plavecká Havlíčkovy sady Ko Arméns

lupi
nk
ého nská
írská

ole

ce
Ostrovsk Botič

ničko
Mo nám. Svatopluka
ská r tov Sm

ra

břeží
vsk á ske

Svornost
va
zská

i
Albe

Zt
ovy á R o s to
Žitom

vsk Čecha
ými dom Hrobci Horsk á Kavka
Za Žensk Pivovarská Podskalská Na ova Ore
Hlav

Nád
dova

Ková
Folimanka
lská
celnice Svobo

ků
tič
Spor
ská

ražn
Hořejší nábřeží
Praha-Smíchov na Výtoni Peru

í
Na Valentince
Ob

Nek Vni c ká Bo
č o va

ská S a rajevská S ámova

M in

N a S k al c e
lou

tovn

Na Knížecí šina
lano slav
Hor
í

Fr i

va ova
Botič

Libu
13 13

Na
ková

Vra Sekaninova

S
tisla
v ži
Štulcovy Vršovická K L ou

lup
Bieblova ov va
i
sady
a
Oldřichova karo
Běl

Radl
Závišova
Petrohr

Ota C tiradova
Svatoplukova
ehr

Štulcov VYŠEHRAD
a
Nuselský most
ads

Jaromírova
ži

Př í p o to č n í

Tu
Uk r ajinská
K Bo

Nezamyslova

n
ká
adská

va
K ře s

el
t ič

V Pe
Bot i

va

myslo
omysl o v a

vn
ič

Santoška

Mr
íro

Křeso Praha-Vršovice
Na Lou

ost
i
Lum

K Rotund
ě

S trakonick
Čiklova

ick á ázovk
Nu Čestmírova

a
á
14 C D E F G H Boleslavova I sel
J K L 14
Sezimova

ská
 Index
Akropolis 31 Art 40 Loving Hut 25 Pražan beer garden 30
Alchymist Grand Hotel & Spa 67 Duplex 31 Lucerna Music Bar 31 President 67
Ambiente Brasileiro 23 El Barrio de Ángel 18 Luka Lu 18 Riegrovy sady beer garden 30
Ambiente Pasta Fresca 21 EMA espresso bar 26 Maisel Synagogue 45 Riverside Hotel Prague 67
Amour Hotel Residence 69 First courtyard 36 Mamaison Suite Hotel Pachtův Rocky O'Reilly's 30
Andel's 67 Four Seasons 67 Palace Prague 68 Royal Gardens & Stag Moat 36
Angelato 27 Francouzská restaurace Art Mánes Exhibition Hall 41 Rudolfinum 42
Angelo Hotel 67 Nouveau 21 Manufaktura 62 Salm Palace 37
Anna 68 Franz Kafka monument 49 Maximilian 68 Sax 69
Antonín Dvořák Museum 47 Friends Coffee House 27 McDonalds 23 Schwarzenberg Palace 37
Appia Hotel Residences 69 Fusion Hotel 68 Meat and Greet Burgerhouse 18 Seaworld 64
Aqua Palace 65 Games & Puzzles 63 MIMINOO Garden Restaurant 20 Second courtyard 37
Archbishop's Palace 35 Giallo Rosa 24 Minute House 49 Sheraton Prague Charles Square
Aria 67 Ginger & Fred 24 Mirror Labyrinth 42 Hotel 67
Arkády Pankrác 63 Gitanes 18 Miss Sophie's 68 Sir Toby's 69
Artěl 63 Glass Bar 29 MOSAIC HOUSE 68 Slovanský Dům 63
Atrium Flóra 63 Golden Lane 36 Mucha Museum 41 South Gardens 37
Back Doors 28 Grand Café Orient 27 Municipal House 32 Spanish Synagogue 45
Bad Jeff's Barbecue 17 Grand Majestic Plaza 68 Museum of Communism 41 Sparkys Palladium 63
Bar and Books 28 Grosseto 24 Myslbek 63 Staropramen Brewery 38
Barceló Praha 67 Harddecore 63 Náprstkovo Museum 47 Sternberg Palace 37
Beas 21 Hard Rock Cafe 17 National Memorial on Vítkov St. George's Basilica 37
Best Western Hotel Páv 68 Hilton Prague 67 Hill 47 St. Nicholas Church 39
Bethlehem Chapel 38 Hilton Prague Old Town 67 National Museum (New Století 19
Bílá Labuť 62 Home Kitchen 21 Building) 47 Stone Bell House 42
Blue Light Bar 28 Hostel Franz Kafka 69 National Technical Museum 42 Strahov Monastery 33
Bombay Cocktail Bar 28 Hotel Century Old Town 68 National Theatre 32 St. Vitus Cathedral 37
Bredovský dvůr 18 Hradčany 36 New Jewish Cemetery 49 Subway 23
Břevnov Monastery 38 Hunger Wall Residence 69 NOI 25 T-Anker 30
Buddha Bar Hotel 67 Hybernia 22 Nota Bene 19 Terryho Ponožky 63
Burger King 23 IF Café 27 Novoměstský pivovar 29 Tesco MY 62
Cacao 26 In Loco 25 Nový Smíchov 63 The Augustine 67
Café de Paris 20 Jalta Hotel 68 Oblaca Restaurant 20 The Dancing House 41
Café Imperial 26 Jáma 17 Old Jewish Cemetery 45 The Emblem Hotel 67
Café Louvre 26 Jan Hus monument 43 Old New Synagogue 45 The House at the Black
Café Savoy 26 Jewish Museum 45 Old Royal Palace 36 Madonna 42
Caffrey's 28 Jewish Prague 32 Old Town Square 33 The ICON Hotel 68
Cantina 24 Jihoměstský pivovar 29 One room hotel 20 The Mark Luxury Hotel Prague
Ceremonial Hall 44 J.J.Murphy’s 29 Ovocný Světozor 27 67
Černá růže 63 Josef 67 Palladium 63 The Nicholas Hotel Residence 69
Čestr 17 Jubilee Synagogue (Jerusalem Paneria 23 Tower Park MiniGolf 20
Charles Bridge 32 Synagogue) 44 Parlor Cafes 27 Town Hall & Astronomical Clock
Charles Bridge Museum 39 Kafíčko Café 27 pentahotel Prague 68 33
Chez Marcel 21 Kafka Museum 49 Petřín 42 Toy Museum 42
Church of Mother of God before Kafka's birthplace 49 Petřín Tower 42 Transport Museum 43
Týn 32 Kampa Museum 40 Picture Gallery at Prague Castle Treasury of St. Vitus Cathedral 37
City Museum 40 Karel Zeman Museum 41 36 U Emy Destinnové 20
Clarion Prague Old Town 67 Karlovy Lázně 31 Pinkas Synagogue 45 U Fleků 29
Clear Head 25 KFC 23 Pivovarský dům 29 U Maltézských rytířů 20
Cloud 9 29 King Solomon 23 Pizza Nuova 24 U Pinkasů 20
Coda 24 Klausen Synagogue 45 Planetarium 64 U Provaznice 20
Coloseum 24 Klementinum 38 Plus Prague 69 U Zlaté studně 68
CottoCrudo 23 Kofein 22 Plzeňská 19 V. Andrle 62
Country Life 25 Kotva 62 Podolí 65 Veletržní Palace 43
Courtyard Marriott Flora 68 Kozička 29 Potrefená Husa Národní 25 Victims of Communism
Cross Club 31 Kozlovna Apropos 25 Powder Tower 36 Memorial 39
Czech Inn 69 Krystal Mozaika Bistro 22 Prague Beer Museum 29 Villa Müller 43
Czech Museum of Music 47 La Degustation 22 Prague Castle 33 V Kolkovně 25
Czech Tourism 39 La Finestra in Cucina 23 Prague City Tourism 39 Vyšehrad 33
Daliborka Tower 35 Lapidarium 47 Prague City Tourism - Airport 39 V Zátiší 22
Debenhams 62 Lennon Wall 43 Prague City Tourism - Na Wenceslas Square 33
Divoká Šárka 64 Le Palais 67 Můstku 39 Zdeněk's Oyster Bar 24
Domus Balthasar 68 Letenské sady beer garden 30 Prague Marriott 67 Žižkov Jewish Cemetery 45
Domus Henrici 68 Little Town Hotel 69 Prague Square Hostel 69 Žluté lázně 64
Dorotheum 62 Lokál 19 Prague TV Tower (Tower Park Zoo Praha 64
DOX Centre for Contemporary Loreta 39 Prague) 20

74 Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com

 THE
SECOND
UGLIEST
BUILDING
IN THE WORLD.
YOU WILL
LOVE IT!
OBSERVATORY
RESTAURANT
BAR
ONE ROOM HOTEL
MINIGOLF

OPENING HOURS
DAILY
8 AM—12 AM

Mahlerovy sady 1 / 130 00 Prague 3

+420 210 320 081
WWW.TOWERPARK.CZ