Volume 3, Issue 3, Fall 2003
ITMA 2003- PREPARATION
Peter Hauser
North Carolina State University
ABSTRACT
Wet processing equipment for preparation was reviewed at ITMA 2003. No major innovations
were seen, but several interesting offerings are summarized.
Keywords: Preparation Desizing Scouring Bleaching Washing
Introduction machinery designs and offering lower cost
Preparation is the first stage of textile wet alternatives by taking advantage of their
processing and perhaps the most significant lower manufacturing costs. Another trend
one since the quality of all subsequent was increased focus on elastic fabrics.
processes depend on uniformly and properly
prepared substrates. It has been estimated Although no significant innovations were
that a majority of all final fabric defects can present, the following products deserve
be traced back to faulty preparation. mention.
With the obvious importance of Fabric Handling
preparation processes, it is not surprising Tacome, Valencia, Italy, has developed
that machinery manufacturers only change new machinery for loading rolls of greige
preparation equipment very cautiously and fabric into continuous processes. The
carefully. As a result, new and innovative machine allows one operator to load and
preparation processes and machinery are sew together large rolls of fabric easily and
rarely seen. The 2003 ITMA was no safely. The rolls are entered into the
exception; only incremental changes were machine with a fork lift and then the rolls
seen in the basic preparation equipment. are automatically taken by conveyor belt to
the sewing station as needed.
One clear trend was noted, however.
Manufacturers in Asia are taking European
Article Designation: ITMA 1 JTATM
Volume 3, Issue 3,Fall 2003
Tacome Roll
Handler
Singeing is a new development that uses indirect heat
The first preparation process after rather than direct flames to remove
weaving is typically singeing. This process protruding fibers. The longer exposure to
removes loose fibers from the fabric surface heat allows for better temperature control by
with heat, improving the fabric’s appearance preheating the fabric prior to fiber removal.
and presenting a uniform substrate to the The fabric temperature is automatically
subsequent desizing process. Several measured and controlled by varying the
manufacturers presented new or improved flame size and fabric speed. Blends of
singeing equipment. polyester and cotton can be processed at
speeds up to 150 m/min without forming
Gematex, Aue, Germany, along with “pearls” of melted polyester on the fabric
Vollenweider, Horgen, Switzerland, form surface.
the Xetma group. The Pyrotrop XIS singer
Pyrotrop XIS
Parex Mather, Manchester, England, distance from the burner array. Various tube
demonstrated a singeing process for tubular sizes can be accommodated by easy machine
knits. The fabric tube is opened and held on adjustments. Production speeds up to 70
a frame to position the fabric at the proper m/min are anticipated.
Article Designation: ITMA 2 JTATM
Volume 3, Issue 3,Fall 2003
Parex Mather Tubular Singer
Desizing, Scouring, and Bleaching Then, Safenwil, Switzerland, introduced
Desizing is necessary to remove the warp a new fully automated batch bleaching
sizes that were applied to yarns prior to system for knits, the Autobleach Air system.
weaving. Scouring removes the oils and The system consists of a bleaching unit and
waxes that interfere with proper dyeing, an automated chemical dispensing unit. The
while bleaching removes color bodies from operator only has to load and unload the
cotton. Both continuous and batch fabric. Total cycle times of 90 minutes are
equipment were seen in these areas. Only claimed as well as only 12 liters of water
incremental improvements in the areas of consumed per kilogram of fabric.
process control and automation were
displayed.
Then Autobleach Air System
TMT, Biella, Italy, showed an improved Tepa, Barcelona, Spain, improved the
pad, available in a variety of widths and automation and controls on their continuous
cylinders diameters. The F series pads and batch open width bleaching and washing
include redesigned cylinders to provide ranges. Improved electrical drives reduce
equal pressure across the entire fabric width. power requirements by 30%.
Article Designation: ITMA 3 JTATM
Volume 3, Issue 3,Fall 2003
Tepa Pad Batch Bleach Unit
Küsters, Krefeld, Germany, have system. Improved cloth guides and
developed improved process controls and spreaders allows for lower fabric tensions
dosing for their line of continuous and permits the use of one vacuum slot
preparation equipment. Touch screens and design for both knits and wovens. In 2004,
online controls increase productivity and Küsters will introduce WashProf, an online
consistency. In line mixing of preparation sensor that detectors the color of wash water
chemicals simplifies formula changes and and adjusts water flow to minimize water
reduces chemical waste. In addition, usage while maintaining desired cleaning
significant improvements were made in efficiency.
Turboflush, the continuous wash box
Küsters Turboflush Washer
Benninger, Uzwil, Switzerland, produces washing technology was seen in the
a well-known line of preparation equipment. Trikoflex washer for open width knits and
No changes in their product line for woven elastic wovens. This drum washer has close
fabrics were introduced as Benninger tolerances to minimize curling and a special
concentrated their development efforts on drive system to minimize fabric tensions.
knit goods, especially elastic fabrics. New
Article Designation: ITMA 4 JTATM
Volume 3, Issue 3,Fall 2003
Benninger Trikoflex Washer
The Tempacta conveyer can be used for processing. Up to five chemicals can be
knits or wovens when long dwell times with metered individually.
low fabric tensions are needed in chemical
Benninger Tempacta Conveyer
Menzel, Biellfeld, Germany, presented low bath volume in a horizontal
two pieces of equipment for configuration with a final nip. This
desizing/scouring/bleaching. They configuration saves space and minimizes
introduced a uniquely designed applicator fluctuations in bath concentrations from
for wet-on-wet processes. The applicator dilution by incoming water on the wet
combines a high efficiency entry nip with a fabric.
Article Designation: ITMA 5 JTATM
Volume 3, Issue 3,Fall 2003
Menzel Applicator
The other Menzel introduction was a goods. The modular Eltex-W wash line was
conveyor steamer with a moving slat designed for the preparation of open width
conveyor to change fabric-metal contact elastic knitted fabrics that have not yet been
points while moving the fabric through the heat set. The equipment provides efficient
steamer. This steamer also allows for oil removal with vacuum slots while
combining fabric strands with the conveyor maintaining very low fabric tension with
for additional dwell time. Fabric tension is driven cylinders allowing for complete
minimized and controlled with individually relaxation of the fabric. A dosing system is
controlled drive sections. provided for pH control.
Noseda, Como, Italy, focuses on
equipment for the wet processing of knitted
Noseda Eltex-W Washer
The Moenus group, Mönchengladbach, requirements. The unit includes doctor
Germany, also concentrates on wet blades, spray pipes, and counter-flow liquor
processing equipment. Woven fabric is circulation for efficient washing action and
addressed with the new Convi-Tex- F wash can easily be combined with application,
unit that can be assembled in modular form steaming, and vacuum units to form a
to accommodate a variety of installation complete preparation line.
Article Designation: ITMA 6 JTATM
Volume 3, Issue 3,Fall 2003
Moenus
Convi-Tex-F
Washer
Knit fabric is prepared with Moenus’ extraction. High liquor flow and chemical
Spray-Flow unit that is designed to prepare dosing control allow for efficient and
fabric with minimum tension on a drum economical operation.
dryer with spray pipes and vacuum
Moenus Spray-Flow Washer
The Moenus Store-Tex steamer is conveyor and Teflon® coated spreader
intended for knit applications that require minimize fabric tensions during treatment.
dwell times up to 30 minutes. A roller bed
Article Designation: ITMA 7 JTATM
Volume 3, Issue 3,Fall 2003
Moenus
Store-Tex
Steamer
Merceriziation neutralization sections. The unit is designed
Mercerization, the treatment of cotton to operate with low volumes of sodium
fabric or yarn with high concentrations of hydroxide, minimizing change over times
sodium hydroxide to achieve increased dye between fabric styles. The amount of wash
affinity and improved strength and luster, water can be controlled by measuring the
was also addressed at ITMA 2003. sodium hydroxide concentration in the
stabilization zone. The fabric is efficiently
Benninger’s Ben-Dimensa is designed neutralized through automatic pH control.
for continuous hot mercerization of both
light and heavy weight fabric and includes
application, stabilization, washing, and
Benninger Ben-Dimensa Mercerizing Range
Menzel presented a mercerizing unit alkali, then changes the treatment bath
designed for short runs. The Minimerc is a automatically to a wash liquor.
compact unit that first treats the goods with
Article Designation: ITMA 8 JTATM
Volume 3, Issue 3,Fall 2003
Menzel Minimerc
Mercerizing Unit
Solvent Scouring oils from elastic fabric and without
Laip, Prato, Italy, introduced an extensive working of the fabric. The
interesting machine for solvent scouring installation includes an automatic solvent
fabric in rope form. The Wash&Dry is a recovery and reuse system.
patented unit that was designed to remove
Laip Wash&Dry Solvent
Cleaning Unit
Heat Setting Icomatex, Barcelona, Spain, introduced
Heat setting of tubular knits has become the Icofix, a heat setting unit that can treat
a standard textile process. Several up to three fabric strands simulanteously
manufacturers presented machines designed with no edge marks.
to heat set fabrics in tubular form.
Article Designation: ITMA 9 JTATM
Volume 3, Issue 3,Fall 2003
Icomatex Icofix Heat Setting Unit
A unique vertical tubular heat setting vertical gas heated chamber. Specially
machine was shown by Heliot, La Chapelle designed adjustable fabric stretchers provide
Saint Luc Cedex, France. The Rollset treats even heat setting without marking the fabric.
two fabric strands simultaneously in a
Heliot Rollset
Article Designation: ITMA 10 JTATM
Volume 3, Issue 3,Fall 2003
