If you’ve ever wondered how makeup artists make skin look youthful and radiant without surgery, pro MUA Marlena Stell has some insider secrets. In a recent YouTube tutorial, the 45-year-old makeup expert shared her go-to techniques that “shave years off of my face” using strategic skincare and makeup steps.
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The Skincare Foundation: Smooth, Hydrated Skin
Before even picking up a brush, Stell emphasizes the importance of healthy, prepped skin. “If your skin is not in order, it doesn’t matter how luxurious your foundation is,” she explains. Her routine starts with exfoliation twice a week using gentle scrubs like rice polish or finely milled microfoliants from brands like Tatcha or Dermalogica. She also rotates liquid exfoliants containing lactic acid, glycolic acid, or BHA three to four times a week, ensuring the skin is smooth and ready for makeup.
Hydration is key. “Even if you have oily skin, you still have to hydrate,” Stell says, recommending hyaluronic acid serums and toners to plump the skin. To target age spots, she relies on daily vitamin C, sometimes paired with niacinamide for brighter, cleaner, and more even-toned skin. Finally, she credits prescription-strength tretinoin (retinoid) for keeping her fine lines and pores under control, noting that it has “shaved 10 years off of my face” over 15 years of use.
Makeup Techniques That Lift and Brighten
Once the skin is prepped, Stell turns to foundation. She advises choosing a thin-viscosity formula, which blends seamlessly into mature skin without settling into fine lines. “It doesn’t matter the finish—oily, matte, satin—we’re looking at viscosity,” she explains, showing how a lightweight foundation creates a smooth canvas. Using the Ana Pinnacle foundation brush, she buffs the product into the skin for a flawless look.
Concealer is strategically applied to lift and brighten key areas. Stell demonstrates using a shade one to two shades lighter than the skin under the eyes, on the center of the forehead, and along marionette lines. “We want to highlight and lift the face,” she notes, showing how this subtle technique reduces shadows and creates a youthful glow.
Blush is another age-defying tool. Stell recommends brighter shades, like corals for warm undertones or pinks for cool tones, applied high on the cheekbones to mimic a natural lift. She also uses glossy blush formulas for added luminosity, avoiding powders that can emphasize texture. “It’s adding luminosity and making my skin look so youthful,” she says.
For eyes, Stell cautions against harsh black liners for fair-skinned individuals, which can age the eyes. Instead, she uses softer shades like dark brown, plum, or gray to define the lash line without looking severe. Cream shadows are smudged along the upper lashes and blended upward for a soft, diffused effect.
Finally, lips are completed with medium or lighter shades paired with gloss for fullness. “Gloss hides fine lines, makes your lips look filler, nice and youthful,” Stell explains, demonstrating an ombré effect with lip liner, lipstick, and gloss for a plumped, polished finish.
Bottom Line
Marlena Stell’s approach proves that a combination of proper skincare and strategic makeup application can visibly reduce the signs of aging. From exfoliation and hydration to thin-viscosity foundations, lifted concealer, bright blush, and glossy lips, her methods provide a simple, non-invasive way to look refreshed and youthful every day.