Concealer is one of the most essential tools in any makeup kit—but if applied incorrectly, it can actually age you rather than hide imperfections. Marlena Stell, a makeup artist and beauty influencer with over 15 years in the beauty industry, shares the top eight concealer mistakes women over 40 often make—and how to fix them.
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1. Not prepping your skin properly
One of the biggest culprits for cakey, creasing concealer is skipping proper skin prep. “A lot of people always say, ‘Marlena, the concealer under my eyes looks thick, it looks cakey, it’s not blending in, it’s settling into fine lines.’ The chances are you’re not putting down a good primer underneath or something that’s hydrating,” Stell explains. She recommends using a quality eye cream, like the Beauty Bio Eyelighter Concentrate, which brightens and hydrates the under-eye area, allowing concealer to glide on smoothly. Silicone-based primers are another great option to create a barrier between skin and product.
2. Skipping color correction
Layering concealer over dark circles without neutralizing them first can make your makeup look thick and unnatural. “If you don’t color correct first, applying layer after layer of concealer is just going to make it look thick and cakey and not give me the coverage that I need,” Stell says. She suggests peach or orange correctors depending on your skin tone to counteract blue, gray, or purple undertones.
3. Using the wrong tool
The type of applicator matters just as much as the concealer formula. “With thicker concealers, using a brush can drag and make it look opaque and cakey. You’ve got to use a sponge for thick formulas to blend properly,” Stell advises. Thin formulas, however, glide better with a brush, creating a smoother finish.
4. Using too much product
Excess concealer can settle into fine lines, making under-eyes look heavier. Stell recommends thinner, high-pigmentation formulas. “Thin formula but high pigmentation—that’s going to be your friend,” she says, adding that even a tiny amount of a highly pigmented product can give full coverage without looking cakey.
5. Choosing the wrong shade
Light concealer doesn’t always brighten dark circles—it can actually emphasize them. “You need to use one shade darker if you’re trying to hide something that is dark, such as dark circles. After you put your foundation on, you can use a lighter concealer in a very thin layer for brightening, but not for covering,” Stell explains.
6. Applying concealer in the wrong places
Placement is key. While the triangle method is still effective for some, Stell recommends experimenting based on your personal under-eye darkness. “Personally, I still do the triangle shape after my foundation with a lighter concealer to brighten the center of my face. It covers dark circles, elongates the face, and makes eyes pop.”
7. Setting with too much powder
Over-powdering can ruin your concealer by making it look dry and settled into fine lines. Stell suggests using a sponge to lightly press powder onto the skin rather than sweeping it on. “The least amount of powder you have, the less chance it’s going to look cakey,” she says.
8. Not locking in with a setting spray
A final step many skip is setting the concealer with spray. “If your concealer throughout the day is settling in fine lines or disappearing, you haven’t set it. I really do recommend using a setting spray,” Stell notes. Spraying directly or using a sponge to gently press the product into place helps make your concealer last for hours.
With these tips, women over 40 can avoid common concealer pitfalls, achieve a flawless under-eye finish, and prevent their makeup from aging them. Marlena Stell’s guidance proves that with the right preparation, tools, and techniques, concealer can enhance your beauty rather than highlight imperfections.