If you’ve been debating whether collagen creams can erase wrinkles, dermatologist Dr. Shereene Idriss is here to clear things up. In a viral video, she breaks down what really works—and what’s mostly hype—when it comes to keeping mature skin plump, firm, and youthful.
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Collagen Creams Alone Won’t Fix Wrinkles
Many people assume that applying collagen topically will boost their skin’s firmness, but Dr. Idriss says otherwise. “Collagen is useless when it comes to your wrinkles,” she explains. The molecules are simply too large to penetrate the skin, meaning slathering on a jar of collagen cream won’t smooth out lines or restore firmness.
Instead, the focus should be on stimulating your skin to produce its own collagen, which is what really helps with lines and wrinkles over time.
Collagen Peptides: A Small Boost
While collagen itself doesn’t absorb well, collagen peptides are different. Dr. Idriss notes that they can stimulate collagen production, though she warns that the evidence is modest. “It’s not going to be like a ‘wham, bam, boom’—it’s a subtle effect,” she says. Think of it as giving your skin a little nudge rather than a miracle cure.
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Retinol: The Gold Standard
For a more reliable solution, Dr. Idriss points to retinol, one of the most well-studied ingredients for mature skin. Contrary to myths, retinol does not thin the skin. Instead, it thickens the dermis and promotes long-term collagen production.
She notes, however, that not all retinol products are equal. Some contain pure retinol, while others use gentler derivatives like retinol propionate, which may be better suited for beginners rather than advanced users seeking stronger results.
Budget-Friendly Alternatives: Coenzyme Q10
If retinol isn’t your thing, Dr. Idriss recommends Eucerin’s Coenzyme Q10 moisturizer, which costs around $11. This cream doesn’t just support collagen production—it also stimulates elastin, offers antioxidant benefits, and supports overall skin health. It can be used morning and night and works well alongside a retinol serum for added anti-aging support.
The Bottom Line
Dr. Idriss emphasizes that no single ingredient will erase wrinkles overnight. The most effective approach for mature skin combines:
- Hydration with a quality moisturizer
- Ingredients that stimulate collagen and elastin production
- Antioxidants to protect against environmental damage
By focusing on these fundamentals, you can keep your skin plump, resilient, and radiant, without falling for the collagen cream hype.