Showing posts with label Boston. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Boston. Show all posts

Sunday, September 23, 2018

A Visit to Gore Place

Nota bene: While poking around the back-of-house section of my blog recently, I was surprised to discover an unpublished post I wrote last summer following my visit to Boston and upstate New York.  Here is that post today for your reading pleasure.


I can't recall which book it was that I first saw an interior photograph of Gore Place, the 1806 Federal-era grand country estate in Waltham, Massachusetts.  Since that first sighting, the house has been on my "must see" list.  As luck would have it, Gore Place is just a stone's throw from Boston so I took the opportunity to visit with my family on our way to upstate New York back in late-June.

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Photo: Chronica Domus


Upon arrival, we were enthusiastically herded greeted by Rocket, the resident Border Collie dog.  Rocket forms part of Gore Place's welcoming committee along with this gentleman:

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Please meet Mr. Thom Roach
Photo: Chronica Domus


Our tour of the house and sprawling grounds was patiently and knowledgeably orchestrated by Mr. Thom Roach who delighted in the fact that we were an eager bunch bursting with questions about the house and its contents.  As the sole participants of his tour, we were fortunate indeed to have Mr. Roach's undivided attention.  "For a historic house", he tells us "Gore Place happens to be a little under the radar".  Perhaps by writing about it here on Chronica Domus, all that might one day change.

The bucolic fifty acre estate belonged to Christopher Gore, a prominent lawyer and politician, and his wife Rebecca.  Mrs. Gore was very influential in the design of the house and worked with Jacques Guillaume Legrand, a Parisian architect, to realize her dream of creating a stylish and comfortable country retreat. Much of Gore Place's furniture was made locally and remains in the house today. Visitors can identify these pieces by the informational tags attached to them.

Entering the house through the east door, we step into an inviting entrance space complete with an elegant curved cantilevered staircase. Mr. Roach points out evidence of an early version of a central heating vent tucked beneath the staircase.

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Gore family portraits line the staircase walls
Photo: Chronica Domus


We are then ushered into the Great Hall.  This is the space I had seen photographed in a book long ago, and which had stirred my desire to one day make a pilgrimage to Gore Place.  In that photograph, the hall was set up as a dining space, complete with a Chinese export porcelain laden table, klismos chairs, and French Empire candelabra atop twin pier tables positioned in front of mirrors to capture the glow of candlelight.  Stepping into the Great Hall today, I was somewhat taken aback by its eye-popping transformation.  Save for the distinctive floor pattern, I barely recognized the place!  Here is the hall today ...

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One of two fireplaces that heats Gore Place's Great Hall during cooler weather
Photo: Chronica Domus


... and this is how it looked around the time I saw it photographed in a book many years earlier:

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Photo: Damie Stillman
Source


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The Great Hall set up as a dining space much as it looked when I first
espied it in a book long ago
Source


The Great Hall has metamorphosed into a far more vibrant space due to the recent addition of the bold pink and blue block-printed French wallpaper and border, recreated from a document found in the house.  The hall, I learned, now appears as it did shortly after the house was built in 1806.

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The Great Hall's floor is made of cooling Pennsylvania King of Prussia marble
Photo: Chronica Domus


If I am perfectly honest, I much prefer the soothing tone of the painted walls, as historically inaccurate as that may be.  Those Federal-era decorators were no shrinking violets, that's for sure!

Next, we enter the oval-shaped drawing room.  The triple-hung windows, when not shuttered as on the day we visited, reveal south-facing views of verdant lawns beyond.

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This is one of two handsome Federal mahogany sofas gracing the oval drawing room
Photo: Chronica Domus


Mr. Roach delighted in revealing to us Mrs. Gore's china closet, ingeniously situated between the oval walls shared by the Great Hall and the drawing room.  If that's not an efficient use of an awkwardly-shaped space, I don't know what is.

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Tucked between the drawing room and the Great Hall is a small china closet whose shelves groan with Chinese Export and Old Paris Porcelain - Mrs. Gore placed the closet there for efficiency and for its proximity to the basement kitchen
Photo: Chronica Domus


The library is located in the east wing of the mansion and is a particularly comfortable room in which to study.  This is due to the plentiful natural light that streams in through four large windows.  The handsome fireplace was carved by Samuel McIntire.

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The nine foot round mahogany library table dominates the room and provides
ample space for studious pursuits
Photo: Chronica Domus


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A pair of silhouettes hang on the library's walls - might they 
possibly be Mr. and Mrs. Gore?
Photo: Chronica Domus


In a nearby small parlor, a table is set with seasonal ingredients available to the family in 1806.  This is the salad course.

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Photo: Chronica Domus


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If only every slab of fresh creamy butter was such a work of art!
Notice how the bread roll is tucked into the napkin, exactly as Mr. Gore's butler,
Mr. Robert Roberts, would have placed it
Photo: Chronica Domus


When we first arrived at Gore Place, Mr. Roach ushered us into the house through the east door.  We now stand at the west entry of the house which was primarily used by Gore Place's visiting tradesmen.  The room is sparsely but beautifully decorated with silver candle sconces, Windsor chairs, two clocks, and few other embellishments.  I rather liked this unfussy space.  The flooring is constructed of the same King of Prussia marble as is found in the Great Hall.

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 Photo: Chronica Domus


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Keys found around the property hang on what appears to be a decorative, and
covetable, brass George Washington curtain tie back
Photo: Chronica Domus


Below shows the small room that Mr. Gore utilized as his office.  With its cheery apricot colored walls and the four windows filling the room with light, I can well understand Mr. Gore's desire to spend time here.  Tackling the business of bill paying and other administrative tasks would certainly become a more pleasurable undertaking when conducted from the confines of this cozy and well appointed office.  

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Mr. Gore's comfortably furnished office
Photo: Chronica Domus


Below shows yet another dining table.  This room is where the family ate their breakfasts.  Boiled eggs are on this morning's menu.  Interestingly, when the Gores lived in the house, eggs were a seasonal food item and unavailable during the winter months.  

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A striking floorcloth is placed atop the gray painted floorboards in the breakfast room
Photo: Chronica Domus


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Time to go upstairs
Photo: Chronica Domus


With all the setting of tables, stoking of fires, and running up and down flights of stairs, is it any wonder that the poor butler was so exhausted!  Fear not, for he enjoyed his own special place to sooth his weary feet upstairs on the mezzanine level in the butler's chamber.

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A foot bath at the ready to receive the aching feet of Mr. Robert Roberts, Mr. Gore's trusty butler
Photo: Chronica Domus


Every butler's duty revolves around his master and attending to his wardrobe needs.  Below is a corner of Mr. Gore's dressing room.  It is here that Robert Roberts assisted Mr. Gore with his daily dress and with the care of his master's wardrobe.

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Mr. Gore's dressing room 
Photo: Chronica Domus


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An early-nineteenth century popcorn maker at the ready in one of the upstairs rooms
Photo: Chronica Domus

It's all fun and games as we walk into the oval billiards room, situated directly above the downstairs oval drawing room.  The room happens to hold the second oldest surviving billiards table in the United States.

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The billiards table fills almost the entire oval room and looks particularly smart
with its epaulet-like pockets
Photo: Chronica Domus


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Mr. Gore purchased the billiards table in 1805 and it remained in this room
until 1910 when it was sold to a local family for $15 - it returned home in
1935 when the house became a museum
Photo: Chronica Domus


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A tranquil corner of the guest bed chamber with a beautiful painted wallpaper that
would not look so out of place in a modern interior
Photo: Chronica Domus


Making our way through the remainder of the upstairs bed chambers and sitting room, we again find our way downstairs via the main staircase.

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Although not so obvious in this photograph, the stair treads are painted to resemble the gray 
and white marble of the entrance hall's floor which was quarried in Pennsylvania
Photo: Chronica Domus


Once outside the house, Mr. Roach walks us over to the immaculately restored carriage house.  Built in 1793, the structure housed wagons and horse-drawn carriages.

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Photo: Chronica Domus


The carriage house is divided into four sections; a tack room, a harness room, the horse stalls, and a carriage room.  Believe it or not, the structure has endured two moves in its long history and is now, thankfully, back in its original spot on the property.

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The tack room is as neat as a pin
Photo: Chronica Domus


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Any horse would be delighted to be put up in these stalls
Photo: Chronica Domus 


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Photo: Chronica Domus


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A country carriage, along with the Gore's city carriage sit in the carriage house today
Photo: Chronica Domus


Mr. Roach's pride in showing us around Gore Place was more than evident, and his enthusiasm was contagious.  We thoroughly enjoyed our visit thanks to him and left with a better understanding of how life was lived in this marvelous Federal-era country estate.  Our only regret was not setting aside enough time to explore the remainder of the property and farm.  There is always next time I suppose.

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Borrowing ideas from the English landscape style of Humphry Repton, the Gore's
planted broad lawns and many trees on the property
Photo: Chronica Domus


Please do make it a point to visit Gore Place when you next find yourself in nearby Boston.  It is a mere thirty minute car ride from the bustle of the city and well-worth your time.

Gore Place & Farm
52 Gore Street
Waltham, Massachusetts
Tel: 1 781 894 2798
https://goreplace.org/


Tuesday, July 25, 2017

Part II of II: In Pursuit of Beauty and Culture In Boston

Our first day in Boston might have fed my husband's love of revolutionary war history, but our second revolved around some of my favorite indulgences. A treasure trove of fine art and architecture to be oohed and aahed over lay ahead, and I could not wait to get started.

Legging it across Boston's tranquil Public Garden on the way to our first port of call, we happened upon the city's famed fleet of pleasure boats.

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The Swan Boats have been a delightful fixture on the Public Garden's pond since 1877
Photo: Chronica Domus


After sauntering past several wonderfully preserved picturesque streets on Beacon Hill, lined with handsome eighteenth and early-nineteenth century brick houses, and crossing into the West End neighborhood, we finally arrive at our destination.

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Otis House
Photo: Chronica Domus


Built in 1796 for Harrison Gray Otis, the Otis House is a grand Federal-era house that has been on my 'Must See' list for a number of years. The house, by the way, did not always look so grand.

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Almost unrecognizable, Otis House has endured a number of calamitous alterations throughout its history including the removal of its marvelous fanlight and Palladian window, and the addition of  shopfronts lining its facade


Here I was, at last, standing in a most impressively scaled hallway, absorbing the fine detail of architect Charles Bulfinch's work.  It is hard to imagine that this house almost met with the wrecker's ball when everything else around it was being demolished to make way for "improvements" to the neighborhood.

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The grand scale of the hallway - which can only be realized when standing within it - is no
accident having been designed to impress all who cross its threshold
Photo: Chronica Domus


In 1916, William Sumner Appleton purchased the house and began work to raise the funds to meticulously restore it. Part of that restoration work included moving the house off its foundation and setting it back from Cambridge Street which was slated to be widened by the city in 1920.  

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There's much to be admired in the gentle color scheme and restrained furnishings of the hallway which stand in stark contrast to the vivid colors and sumptuous decoration of the principal rooms
Photo: Chronica Domus


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I was rather taken by the elegant simplicity of the glass hall lantern which hangs from a 
hook and is illuminated by a lone wax candle
Photo: Chronica Domus


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The view from the landing
Photo: Chronica Domus


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The shutters of the restored Palladian window
Photo: Chronica Domus


The dining room, seen below, perfectly illustrates the Federal-era's love of vibrant color.  This room has been accurately restored using research garnered from chemical paint analysis.  Is anyone, I wonder, as bold today in their choice of paint colors?

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The Otis' dining room has been decorated as it looked when the family lived there - note 
the green crumb cloth, placed beneath the dining table to protect the costly carpet from errant 
morsels which might stray from the mouths of sloppy diners
Photo: Chronica Domus


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Obviously I need to get with the program and add a similarly useful and beautiful 
tole bottle cooler to my own humble dining room
Photo: Chronica Domus


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A cozy spot for taking tea in the drawing room
Photo: Chronica Domus


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This Federal-era brass curtain tie back, employed in the bedchamber, looks particularly
fetching against yellow silk and soft green paint
Photo: Chronica Domus 


With all the sumptuous distractions of the interior of Otis House, it would be easy to miss the views from any one of the handsome sash windows.  When I took a peek, the nearby Old West Church, built in 1806, was revealed.  

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A most agreeable view
Photo: Chronica Domus


The room below may not be the most opulently decorated room in the house, but it was my favorite. The restful colors and spare decoration are a pleasing juxtaposition to the high drama created by the color and pattern choices within the principal rooms.  The graphic wallpaper pattern, authentic to the period, would not look so out of place in a modern setting.

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No wonder this room housed Harrison Gray Otis' office; the soothing colors are 
certainly conducive to study
Photo: Chronica Domus 


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I loved this ceramic bough pot which rests upon the room's mantelshelf and was 
designed to sit flush against the wall
Photo: Chronica Domus


Visitors to Boston who have an interest in historic houses should certainly take the time to view this one.  I would, however, strongly advise you check the Otis House website when planning your visit as the house is not open daily.  One would hate to be met by a locked door and forfeit an opportunity of viewing the splendors of this fine Federal-era house.

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Otis House's handsome front door lock
Photo: Chronica Domus


Well, that was all so enjoyable but it was barely lunchtime.  We were only half way through our day exploring Boston's first-rate cultural treasures.  Hopping into a nearby taxi, we were soon deposited alongside the towering USS Constitution, the world's oldest commissioned warship still afloat (HMS Victory, which I visited several years ago, is technically older but is now permanently in dry dock preserved as a museum).

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We had a rare glimpse of 'Old Ironsides' in its entirety as it sat in dry dock 
undergoing restoration work to its hull (remember to bring your official photo I.D. with 
you if you too wish to hop aboard for a tour given by active duty U.S. Navy sailors)
Photo: Chronica Domus 


The related museum across the way was filled to overflowing with interesting artifacts and information related to the ship. While my husband brushed up on his naval history, I distracted myself with this pair of covet-worthy porcelain urns.

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Commodore Isaac Hull who served aboard the USS Constitution during 
the war of 1812 graces this rather striking porcelain urn
Photo: Chronica Domus


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Dashing Naval Commander. Oliver Hazard Perry, appears 
upon a second dreamy urn
Photo: Chronica Domus


Another taxi ride soon had us at the doors of our final destination, the Museum of Fine Arts.

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Photo: Chronica Domus


I could barely contain my excitement at the prospect of spending a pleasurable afternoon visiting one of the world's most comprehensive fine arts museums.  Aside from the phenomenal works on display - which I'll return to shortly - the museum building itself manages to successfully combine traditional Beaux-Arts architecture with modern additions.  

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My photograph of the museum's dome, decorated with John Singer Sargent murals, does 
this stunning space little justice
Photo: Chronica Domus


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The modern glass atrium is home to Dale Chihuly's 42 foot Lime Green Icicle Tower
Photo: Chronica Domus


As predicted, it did not take long before the oohing and aahing began.  Barely stepping foot into the corridor headed in the direction of the Americas Wing, I was stopped in my tracks by this elegant musician...

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Joseph Dominique Fabry Garat Playing a Lyre Guitar by Adèle Romany, circa 1808
Photo: Chronica Domus


and his lady companion...

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Portrait of a Lady at a Pianoforte by Adèle Romany, circa 1808
Photo: Chronica Domus


Once in the Americas Wing the oohing and aahing intensified as we walked by such jewels as this: 

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Watson and the Shark by John Singleton Copley
Photo: Chronica Domus

and, this:

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John Singleton Copley's portrait of John Quincy Adams, painted in London in 1796
Photo: Chronica Domus

John Singleton Copley (1738 - 1815) was Boston's most prolific and talented artist.  We viewed close to forty of his works which were nothing short of magnificent.  Displayed alongside the paintings are silver, ceramics, and furniture of the period.  Other galleries showcased works by Gilbert Stuart (1755 - 1828) whose unfinished George Washington portrait is recognizable to anyone looking at a one dollar note, and Thomas Sully (1783 - 1872) whose monumental work 'The Passage of The Delaware' dominates the gallery in which it hangs.  What a remarkable treasure trove of jewels!

A respite from the dizzying array of art was soon in order so we headed upstairs to the marvelous Bravo restaurant to refuel on delicious seasonal fare.

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The sophisticated and soothing environment of Bravo restaurant was just the ticket for 
exhausted and hungry art enthusiasts
Photo: Chronica Domus


After dinner, we made our way back downstairs to the Americas Wing to finish viewing the satellite rooms off the main galleries.  These were filled with fine furniture and decorations of the late-eighteenth and early-nineteenth centuries.

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The dining room, parlor, and bedchamber - complete with contents - of Oak Hill, a house built by renowned carver and builder Samuel McIntire, is set up much like it was when it was built in 1801
Photo: Chronica Domus


After a trek through the Art of The Ancient World wing where Patience's fascination with Egyptology was satiated, and a quick gander at the Greek and Roman treasures, we called it a day.  It was, after all 10 p.m., time for the museum to close its doors.  

Walking back to our hotel, thoroughly exhausted but buoyed from our jam-packed day of cultural pursuits, we all agreed that Boston is indeed an exemplary city full of extraordinary treasures.  How very fortunate are its fair citizens and visitors alike.  

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