Exploring New Orleans: Part I of III

It won't take long for visitors to hear the familiar sounds of New Orleans as they amble
around the French Quarter on any given day or night

Photo: Chronica Domus

My husband and I have just returned from a very enjoyable visit to New Orleans, a city in the midst of celebrating its tercentennial anniversary.  As you can well imagine, a place as historically rich and culturally diverse  as New Orleans rightfully has plenty to celebrate.  It is a city I have longed to visit but somehow didn't until last week.  With a reputation for good food, interesting architecture, and a laid-back attitude, I was more than eager to discover the delights of the Big Easy.

After checking into a supremely comfortable room at the Windsor Court Hotel on a hot and humid afternoon, a refreshing drink was in order.  A Ramos Gin Fizz, one of the city's most famous cocktails, was just the ticket.  Luckily for us the famed Sazerac Bar was just a short walk away.  I could not think of a better place to cool down, unwind, and enjoy a slice of old-world New Orleans.

The Paul Ninas murals and white jacketed bartenders lend an air of yesteryear to
The Sazerac Bar's elegant ambiance

Photo: Chronica Domus

Suitably refreshed and ready to explore, we sauntered towards the French Quarter, an experience I shall not soon forget.  Looking around at our surroundings, we momentarily felt a sense of déjà vu.  Had we stumbled into a back street in Lyon France, or perhaps Spain, or even the West Indies?  The French Quarter is all of these places thanks to the architectural influences of its early settlers.  

The area around Bienville Place on Decatur Street reminded me of Europe

Photo: Chronica Domus

Place des Vosges in Paris or Jackson Square in New Orleans?

Photo: Chronica Domus

The French Quarter is famous for the many intricately fashioned iron balconies, or
galleries, found on many of its buildings
Photo: Chronica Domus

New Orleans is surrounded by water.  The steamboats that once navigated the mighty Mississippi river played an important part in why the area established itself as a world port.  Today, one can still spot a steamboat or two paddling down the river; here's The Natchez underway taking passengers on a night cruise.

Photo: Chronica Domus

The city's outlying bayous and wetlands offer a fascinating glimpse at the natural landscape surrounding New Orleans.  Built, in the main, at sea level, the city is keenly aware of the devastating consequences of floodwaters.  Pumps and levees work overtime to keep the area dry.

A whimsical drainpipe New Orleans style!

Photo: Chronica Domus

An excursion into nearby Cajun country and a tour of the swamps is a must for any curious visitor, especially so if one wishes to see the local wildlife up close and personal.

Into the swamp we go perched upon a small airboat expertly steered by
Captain Randy, a man who has spent his entire life around the bayou
Photo: Chronica Domus

Spanish moss-covered Taxodium distichum, or Bald Cypress trees, grow in brackish
swamp water and are only able to survive because of their ...

... protruding roots which allow for an exchange of gases at the "knees" which keep the trees alive
Photo: Chronica Domus 

Proud Cajun Captain Randy tells us that he left school at the age of twelve to work on his
family's bayou; exceedingly knowledgeable in matters relating to the fragile ecosystem,
swamp management, and the local fauna and flora (just ask him about the Nutria invasion
and the rapidly disappearing bayou), Captain Randy made our visit to the swamp not only educational but jolly good fun too (he is an excellent storyteller!)
Photo: Chronica Domus

Yes, it's true, alligators really do live in the swampy environs of New Orleans and
Captain Randy knows exactly where to find them
Photo: Chronica Domus

Back in the city, the best way to get around is either on foot or by boarding one of the handsome streetcars that have been rolling by every few minutes for the past one-hundred and fifty years.  We rode the streetcars twice during our stay in New Orleans; once up to City Park to tour a historic house that I'll be posting about next, and the other to the Garden District to view the many antebellum houses the area is famous for and the cemetery.

All aboard the city's famous streetcars
Photo: Chronica Domus

Because the water table is high in New Orleans, the deceased are interred in above-ground tombs

to avoid any unpleasant consequences of flooding

Photo: Chronica Domus

Quercus virginiana, or Southern live oak trees, are as  stately as the houses that line 

the streets of the Garden District

Photo: Chronica Domus

This incredible cast iron cornstalk fence can be seen

at Colonel Short's Villa in the Garden District

Photo: Chronica Domus

Of course, I should not fail to mention some of the local food that citizens and visitors alike enjoy in New Orleans.  The cuisines of the Creole and Cajun traditions dominate the restaurant scene.  As we happened to be in New Orleans on Friday, there was only one place to lunch:

Galatoires on Bourbon Street looks rather civilized from the outside until, that is,  ...
Photo: Chronica Domus

... one steps into the rowdy dining room during the madness that is Friday lunch
Photo: Chronica Domus

Lunching at Galatoires on Friday is a beloved local tradition.  The boisterous conviviality of the diners sitting cheek by jowl makes for a very entertaining but noisy environment.   Admittedly, it was all a tad too much for us out-of-towners so we happily ate our lunch in the upstairs dining room alongside other less spirited locals.

And, because we both have a sweet tooth, and the beignets were outstanding, we visited Café du Monde more times than I care to admit during our time in New Orleans.  There's good reason this place has been in business for the past century and a half.

Café au lait is the perfect accompaniment to delicious beignets

Photo: Chronica Domus

I shall miss beautiful New Orleans and its vibrant culture and friendly people.  With so much to offer, the Crescent City is well worth a repeat visit.  I look forward to that day not only with pleasure but with a little pep in my step (yes, I can still hear the sound of all those jazz bands playing in my head). 

In the next installment of this three part series, I look forward to showing you around a historic house situated along the banks of Bayou St. John.


Nota bene: I am neither paid nor do I receive recompense in exchange for applauding products or services within my blog.  I do so because I enjoy them.  If you are a kindred spirit, you too enjoy recommending nice things to fellow good eggs.

Part II of II: In Pursuit of Beauty and Culture In Boston

Our first day in Boston might have fed my husband's love of revolutionary war history, but our second revolved around some of my favorite indulgences. A treasure trove of fine art and architecture to be oohed and aahed over lay ahead, and I could not wait to get started.

Legging it across Boston's tranquil Public Garden on the way to our first port of call, we happened upon the city's famed fleet of pleasure boats.

The Swan Boats have been a delightful fixture on the Public Garden's pond since 1877

Photo: Chronica Domus

After sauntering past several wonderfully preserved picturesque streets on Beacon Hill, lined with handsome eighteenth and early-nineteenth century brick houses, and crossing into the West End neighborhood, we finally arrive at our destination.

Otis House

Photo: Chronica Domus

Built in 1796 for Harrison Gray Otis, the Otis House is a grand Federal-era house that has been on my 'Must See' list for a number of years. The house, by the way, did not always look so grand.

Almost unrecognizable, Otis House has endured a number of calamitous alterations throughout its history including the removal of its marvelous fanlight and Palladian window, and the addition of  shopfronts lining its facade

Source

Here I was, at last, standing in a most impressively scaled hallway, absorbing the fine detail of architect Charles Bulfinch's work.  It is hard to imagine that this house almost met with the wrecker's ball when everything else around it was being demolished to make way for "improvements" to the neighborhood.

The grand scale of the hallway - which can only be realized when standing within it - is no
accident having been designed to impress all who cross its threshold

Photo: Chronica Domus

In 1916, William Sumner Appleton purchased the house and began work to raise the funds to meticulously restore it. Part of that restoration work included moving the house off its foundation and setting it back from Cambridge Street which was slated to be widened by the city in 1920.  

There's much to be admired in the gentle color scheme and restrained furnishings of the hallway which stand in stark contrast to the vivid colors and sumptuous decoration of the principal rooms

Photo: Chronica Domus

I was rather taken by the elegant simplicity of the glass hall lantern which hangs from a 

hook and is illuminated by a lone wax candle

Photo: Chronica Domus

The view from the landing

Photo: Chronica Domus

The shutters of the restored Palladian window

Photo: Chronica Domus

The dining room, seen below, perfectly illustrates the Federal-era's love of vibrant color.  This room has been accurately restored using research garnered from chemical paint analysis.  Is anyone, I wonder, as bold today in their choice of paint colors?

The Otis' dining room has been decorated as it looked when the family lived there - note 

the green crumb cloth, placed beneath the dining table to protect the costly carpet from errant 

morsels which might stray from the mouths of sloppy diners

Photo: Chronica Domus

Obviously I need to get with the program and add a similarly useful and beautiful 

tole bottle cooler to my own humble dining room

Photo: Chronica Domus

A cozy spot for taking tea in the drawing room

Photo: Chronica Domus

This Federal-era brass curtain tie back, employed in the bedchamber, looks particularly
fetching against yellow silk and soft green paint

Photo: Chronica Domus 

With all the sumptuous distractions of the interior of Otis House, it would be easy to miss the views from any one of the handsome sash windows.  When I took a peek, the nearby Old West Church, built in 1806, was revealed.  

A most agreeable view

Photo: Chronica Domus

The room below may not be the most opulently decorated room in the house, but it was my favorite. The restful colors and spare decoration are a pleasing juxtaposition to the high drama created by the color and pattern choices within the principal rooms.  The graphic wallpaper pattern, authentic to the period, would not look so out of place in a modern setting.

No wonder this room housed Harrison Gray Otis' office; the soothing colors are 

certainly conducive to study

Photo: Chronica Domus 

I loved this ceramic bough pot which rests upon the room's mantelshelf and was 

designed to sit flush against the wall

Photo: Chronica Domus

Visitors to Boston who have an interest in historic houses should certainly take the time to view this one.  I would, however, strongly advise you check the Otis House website when planning your visit as the house is not open daily.  One would hate to be met by a locked door and forfeit an opportunity of viewing the splendors of this fine Federal-era house.

Otis House's handsome front door lock

Photo: Chronica Domus

Well, that was all so enjoyable but it was barely lunchtime.  We were only half way through our day exploring Boston's first-rate cultural treasures.  Hopping into a nearby taxi, we were soon deposited alongside the towering USS Constitution, the world's oldest commissioned warship still afloat (HMS Victory, which I visited several years ago, is technically older but is now permanently in dry dock preserved as a museum).

We had a rare glimpse of 'Old Ironsides' in its entirety as it sat in dry dock 

undergoing restoration work to its hull (remember to bring your official photo I.D. with 

you if you too wish to hop aboard for a tour given by active duty U.S. Navy sailors)

Photo: Chronica Domus 

The related museum across the way was filled to overflowing with interesting artifacts and information related to the ship. While my husband brushed up on his naval history, I distracted myself with this pair of covet-worthy porcelain urns.

Commodore Isaac Hull who served aboard the USS Constitution during 

the war of 1812 graces this rather striking porcelain urn

Photo: Chronica Domus

Dashing Naval Commander. Oliver Hazard Perry, appears 

upon a second dreamy urn

Photo: Chronica Domus

Another taxi ride soon had us at the doors of our final destination, the Museum of Fine Arts.

Photo: Chronica Domus

I could barely contain my excitement at the prospect of spending a pleasurable afternoon visiting one of the world's most comprehensive fine arts museums.  Aside from the phenomenal works on display - which I'll return to shortly - the museum building itself manages to successfully combine traditional Beaux-Arts architecture with modern additions.  

My photograph of the museum's dome, decorated with John Singer Sargent murals, does 

this stunning space little justice

Photo: Chronica Domus

The modern glass atrium is home to Dale Chihuly's 42 foot Lime Green Icicle Tower

Photo: Chronica Domus

As predicted, it did not take long before the oohing and aahing began.  Barely stepping foot into the corridor headed in the direction of the Americas Wing, I was stopped in my tracks by this elegant musician...

Joseph Dominique Fabry Garat Playing a Lyre Guitar by Adèle Romany, circa 1808

Photo: Chronica Domus

and his lady companion...

Portrait of a Lady at a Pianoforte by Adèle Romany, circa 1808

Photo: Chronica Domus

Once in the Americas Wing the oohing and aahing intensified as we walked by such jewels as this: 

Watson and the Shark by John Singleton Copley

Photo: Chronica Domus

and, this:

John Singleton Copley's portrait of John Quincy Adams, painted in London in 1796

Photo: Chronica Domus

John Singleton Copley (1738 - 1815) was Boston's most prolific and talented artist.  We viewed close to forty of his works which were nothing short of magnificent.  Displayed alongside the paintings are silver, ceramics, and furniture of the period.  Other galleries showcased works by Gilbert Stuart (1755 - 1828) whose unfinished George Washington portrait is recognizable to anyone looking at a one dollar note, and Thomas Sully (1783 - 1872) whose monumental work 'The Passage of The Delaware' dominates the gallery in which it hangs.  What a remarkable treasure trove of jewels!

A respite from the dizzying array of art was soon in order so we headed upstairs to the marvelous Bravo restaurant to refuel on delicious seasonal fare.

The sophisticated and soothing environment of Bravo restaurant was just the ticket for 

exhausted and hungry art enthusiasts

Photo: Chronica Domus

After dinner, we made our way back downstairs to the Americas Wing to finish viewing the satellite rooms off the main galleries.  These were filled with fine furniture and decorations of the late-eighteenth and early-nineteenth centuries.

The dining room, parlor, and bedchamber - complete with contents - of Oak Hill, a house built by renowned carver and builder Samuel McIntire, is set up much like it was when it was built in 1801

Photo: Chronica Domus

After a trek through the Art of The Ancient World wing where Patience's fascination with Egyptology was satiated, and a quick gander at the Greek and Roman treasures, we called it a day.  It was, after all 10 p.m., time for the museum to close its doors.  

Walking back to our hotel, thoroughly exhausted but buoyed from our jam-packed day of cultural pursuits, we all agreed that Boston is indeed an exemplary city full of extraordinary treasures.  How very fortunate are its fair citizens and visitors alike.  

Back From London

Happy New Year to you all!  It seems to me that 2017 is already whizzing by at an alarmingly fast pace, far swifter than I would wish it.  Here we are, half way through January, and I am finally ready to turn my attentions to blogging once again.

We've enjoyed a marvelously relaxing three week break in and around London, celebrating Christmas and the New Year with the rest of my family.  London always looks so perfectly dressed during the festive period.  Everywhere one looks, there are lights, lights, lights.

Photo: Chronica Domus

Photo: Chronica Domus

Photo: Chronica Domus

There were also several days where viewing anything at all became rather a chore. London and her environs were plunged in soupy fog, the density of which caused holiday travelers quite a bit of bother.

Although we are quite accustomed to foggy days in San Francisco, it is never accompanied by glistening frost
Photo: Chronica Domus

As you might already know, a traditional British Christmas would not be complete without a flaming Christmas pudding.  Here is 2016's pyrotechnic extravaganza:

The aurora borealis has nothing on this light show

Photo: Chronica Domus

Boxing day in my sister's neighborhood, where we happened to be staying for the duration of our visit, coincided with the refuse collection schedule.  I could not imagine a more British sight than this:

The neighbors had obviously enjoyed a marvelous Christmas day nibbling on the scrumptious contents of this enormous, and decadent, Fortnums hamper

Photo: Chronica Domus

A leisurely walk within the country park close by provided the perfect Boxing Day tonic to the previous day's feasting and imbibing.  

  

Photo: Chronica Domus

No trip to London would be complete, at least for my husband and I, without a trot around Portobello Road antiques market.  This year, I was saddened to discover that one of my favorite arcades had shuttered its doors, only to be replaced by a theater and numerous clothing shops that are quite removed from the surrounding antiques related businesses.  I do hope the unique character of this market will not be dilluted over time with the invasion of such establishments.  All was not lost, however, as some of the dealers had found new homes within the Admiral Vernon Antiques Arcade, situated further down on Portobello Road. It was here that I managed to scoop up a Grainger Worcester porcelain teapot stand decorated in Pattern 228 for a song. I look forward to happily using it as a small serving platter filled with after dinner chocolates and other sweet treats. 

The loot from my visit to the Portobello Road antiques market

Photo: Chronica Domus

It was also my good fortune to stumble across an unusually small Anglo-Irish cut glass decanter, the scale of which I have not previously seen (could it have been a traveling decanter one wonders?).  It stands proud at a mere five inches, complete with stopper.  This too made it into my hand luggage for its journey across the pond.  

After our morning's successful haul, we took our good friend Reggie Darling's recommendation and visited a rather special shop.  It belongs to the charmingly affable and exceedingly hospitable Hilary Fisher.  Hilary's shop, Fisher-London, is the sort of place that fills one with wild desire and the inclination to do some serious damage to one's bank balance.  Ms. Fisher has created an exquisite emporium bursting with all manner of (mainly) Georgian items one only dreams of finding in a lifetime of scouring antiques shops.  Everything is handsomely displayed against a rather cheery orange backdrop. Hilary has impeccable taste in not only the items she selects to sell at her shop, but also in her choice of sherry.  My husband and I were both treated to a generous dose of Hilary's hospitality with not one, but two rounds of sherry ("sweet or dry?", she asks) served, appropriately enough, from period sherry glasses. Were it not for a previous engagement, we would have happily imbibed and chit-chatted for far longer than we were able to with our engaging hostess.

A corner of Fisher-London crammed full of delightful Georgian treats

Photo: Chronica Domus

A storm bowl is such an elegant way of illuminatng one's surroundings

Photo: Chronica Domus

Wrapped in cheery orange tissue paper and protective bubble wrap, four capstan stemmed wine rummers, circa 1810, and two Regency whisky tumblers, headed home with us

Photo: Chronica Domus

I highly recommend a visit to Fisher-London the next time you find yourself in England's capital city. But, be warned!  You may find it difficult to walk away empty handed.

Our Regency capstan stemmed rummers made it safely home thanks to Hilary's careful wrapping skills - I cannot wait to press them into service at our next dinner party

Photo: Chronica Domus

These Regency whisky tumblers will certainly be getting a good workout, filled with amber nectar and slowly sipped during long winter evenings around the fireplace 

Photo: Chronica Domus

This was not the only shopping spree we enjoyed during our trip.  I'll leave that little excursion for a future posting.

An aspect of London life that has drastically turned around since I moved away some twenty-six years ago is the food and restaurant culture.  One can now dine upon the national cuisine of countries from every corner of the globe. I am happy to report, however, that London's oldest restaurant Rules, has remained quite unapologetically unchanged. Situated on a small street behind Covent Garden, Rules is a bastion of old-fashioned classic British cooking.  It is the type of place where one sees immaculately dressed, well-to-do London gentlemen taking their godsons to lunch when visiting from the country on their school holidays.

Rules is always decked out so festively during the Christmas season

Photo: Chronica Domus

Of course, the only cocktail to order here is 'The Rules', a potent mix of Tanqueray, Dubonnet, and vintage Cremant

Photo: Chronica Domus

The king of cheeses, English stilton, served just as it should be

Photo: Chronica Domus

There are many dining rooms at Rules and each has walls jam-packed with interesting little works of art

Photo: Chronica Domus

  

A few days later, in contrast to our delicious luncheon at this most venerable old-line restaurant, my husband and I had the great pleasure of dining with Naomi, London's 'It Girl' of the blogger world, and the authoress of Coulda Shoulda Woulda.  We dined upon the very modern swanky Indian-British fusion creativity of Cinnamon Soho over lots of fun conversation and small plates and drinks.  After several hours of fun-packed jabber, we moved the party down the road.  Enjoying night caps within the chic surroundings of Ham Yard Hotel's bar, we did not want the evening to draw to a close. What fun we'd shared catching up since our visit last year and waxing lyrical on all manner of topics. Naomi had one more place to show us before biding adiu at an unusually deserted Piccadilly Circus (I think Londoners were still in bed nursing their New Year's hangovers several days into 2017).  We crept upstairs to view The Dive Bar, one of Ham Yard's many private event spaces designed by Kit Kemp. This one boasted a gargantuan orange juice squeezer which could easily keep the biggest Vitamin C junkie satisfied for life.

Photo: Chronica Domus

Of course, I do so enjoy being an aunty to four very lovely and well-behaved nephews and nieces and as such, along with my daughter Patience, we paid a visit to a favorite childhood spot of mine, London's Natural History Museum.  I have very fond memories of visiting there with my granny and I've also enjoyed many excursions with Patience over the duration of her young life.  It is a fascinating place to while away an afternoon, whether you are accompanied by children or not.  The gem room is a particularly engaging and creative exhibit not to be missed.

The architecture of this magnificent building never ceases to amaze me - what an entrance this is!

Photo: Chronica Domus

The grand staircase of Hintze Hall where visitors stop to admire the Charles Darwin statue

Photo: Chronica Domus

The ornithology exhibits are among my favorites at the museum and are some of the few things remaining unchanged since my inaugural visit as a young lass

Photo: Chronica Domus

Since arriving home to lashings of much needed rainfall, I've been in rather a lazy low-key mood.  So much so that this was the view of the dining room table this morning:

Epiphany has come and gone and the Christmas decorations have yet to be put away

Photo: Chronica Domus

I suppose I'd better get my act together and store it all away for another year.  I did, if you recall, make mention at the beginning of this post how time has flown by so rapidly this year.  I know, I know, excuses, excuses!


Nota bene: I am neither paid nor do I receive recompense in exchange for applauding products or services within my blog.  I do so because I enjoy them.  If you are a kindred spirit, you too enjoy recommending nice things to fellow good eggs.