Teddy

Cardigan

Crochet Pattern
by
@nora.moon_
 Intro
Please note that this is a digital crochet pattern
only, not a finished item/product. If you want a
finished item, you can order it via my Etsy Shop.

This pattern is for personal use only.

It is FORBIDDEN TO:
Distribute, copy, and/or make any form of
tutorials for this
pattern (eg. YT video or shorts, tiktok, IG reels,
etc.).
Claim this pattern as your own design.
Use my pictures or my testers’ pictures without
permission.
Reveal/ share stitches and techniques used in
this pattern.
Change/ modify this design.
Rename the design.
Mass produce the finished item.

But remember that I would be

happy to see your version of
Teddy Cardigan on Instagram, so
feel free to tag me (@nora.moon_)
 About the
Pattern
This pattern is:

Good for Beginners;

Written in US Terminology;
Using measurements in centimeters (cm).

Materials:
1.2 kg of yarn (size 7);
Hook size 12;
Hook size 10;
5 buttons (optional);
50 cm ribbon (optional);
Stitch markers.

The Teddy Cardigan Pattern is perfect if you

want to work with large yarn, like size 7 (Super
Bulky). If you're unsure where to find such yarn,
you can use yarn in sizes 3-5, but crochet with 2-
3 threads held together. The cardigan consists of
5 parts: 2 front pieces, 1 back piece, and 2
sleeves. Let’s start with the front pieces.
Measurements

A - the length of the cardigan;

B - shoulder width;
C - neckline length;
D - the width of the cardigan (for the back
piece);
E - the length of the sleeve;
F - the width of the sleeve.
 Front Parts
1. Make chains (chs) with your hook 12 to meet
your measurement A. Remember this
number. For example, I made 38 chains. Note
that the ribbing is already included in this
length. Ch 1, turn.
2. Work YOSlSt into the next loop from the
hook: *Yarn over (YO), insert the hook into the
back loop of the stitch, and pull up a loop.
You should have three loops on your hook.
Pull through all three loops**. Work from * to
** until 5 stitches remain.

Step 2
3. Take your hook 10 and make 5 SlSts until the end
of the row: Insert your hook into the back loop, pull
up a loop, and pull through the loop on your hook.
Ch 1, turn.
4. SlSt across the entire row (make 5 first stitches
with hook 10, then change to hook 12). Ch 1, turn.

Repeat steps 2-4 until you reach your measurement

B. Be sure to end on a SlSt row. I made 16 rows.
Now, from rows 17 to 24, we will make decreases in
each row:

5. Make 1 decrease: Insert your hook into the next

stitch from the hook, pull up a loop (2 loops on your
hook). YO, insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up
a loop (4 loops on your hook), then YO and pull
through all the loops. Then, repeat steps 2 and 3 until
the end of the row.
Step 5

6. SlSt across the row until you have 2 stitches left

(make 5 first stitches with hook 10, then change to
hook 12). Make a SlSt decrease: insert your hook into
the next stitch, then into the next (second) stitch (3
loops on your hook). Pull through all the loops. Ch 1,
turn.
Step 6
Repeat steps 5-6 until you reach your measurement C.
I made 8 decrease rows. Be sure to end on a YOSlSt
row. Fasten off (FO).

Important: Count how many stitches you have at the

end. For example, after 8 decrease rows, I had 30
stitches.

Now let’s make the second front piece. We will start

with the same number of stitches that we ended with
on the first front piece and make increases for the first
8 rows.

Important: You must make the same number of

increase rows as you did decrease rows.

7. Take your hook 12. Start with the same number of

stitches you had after the decrease rows in the first
front piece. For me, this was 30 stitches. Ch 1, turn.
8. SlSt across until you have one loop left (make 5
first stitches with the hook 10). Make a SlSt increase
into the next loop. Ch 1, turn.

9.Work a YOSlSt increase into the next loop from the

hook: *Yarn over (YO), insert the hook into the back
loop of the stitch, and pull up a loop. You should
have three loops on your hook. Pull through all three
loops**. Repeat from * to ** in the same stitch, then
work SlSt until 5 stitches remain.

Step 9

Repeat increase rows 2-4 until you reach the same

number of B rows as in the first front piece. I made 8
increase rows. Then repeat steps 2-4 until you reach
your measurement A. Be sure to end on a YOSlSt row.
Fasten off (FO).
 Back
Now, count the total number of rows in one of your
front pieces. Then, use the following formula to
calculate the number of rows for the back piece:
(Meas. A & B rows × 2) + 2 = Meas. D

For example, my front piece has 24 rows. Multiply 24

by 2 to get 48. Then, add 2 to get 50. So, for the back
piece, I need to make 50 rows in total.
Start by making the same number of stitches as your
Meas. A, and repeat steps 2-4 until you reach the total
number of back rows. Fasten off (FO).
 Sleeves
For the sleeves, make chains (chs) to match your
measurement E. I made 27 chains. Then, repeat steps
2-4 until you reach your measurement F. You must
end on a YOSlSt row. I made 36 rows. Do not fasten off
(FO).

When you reach your measurement F, fold the sleeve

in half (right sides facing each other) and join the two
parts with SlSt, working into the outer loops of the
rows. When you reach the top of the sleeve, Ch 1 and
work sc across the entire opening of the sleeve,
making 1 sc per row. Once you reach the end of the
circle, SlSt into the first sc. Leave a 50 cm tail for
sewing, then fasten off (FO).
 Connecting
Now, let’s connect the pieces to assemble the
cardigan.

First, connect the back and front pieces (right sides

facing each other) using stitch markers. Place the
markers on the row number for measurement A.
Insert your hook and ch 1 to secure. Use SlSt to join
the back and front pieces together. Next, attach the
sleeves: start from the pink dot, down to the armpit,
and up to the yellow dot. Make sure the 50 cm tail
is positioned at the bottom. Fasten off (FO).
 Take the 50 cm tail, and use it to connect the
back and front parts. SlSt until you reach the end
of the pieces, then fasten off (FO).
Repeat for the other side of the cardigan.
 Borders
For the border of the cardigan, I used a row of HDC all
the way around (following the yellow arrow). I didn’t
create buttonholes since size 7 yarn allows you to pull
the buttons through without them. Make 3 HDC in the
blue dots and HDC dec into the yellow. However, if you
want to use larger buttons, skip an HDC and make a Ch
1 instead to create a gap. Don’t forget to attach your
ribbon!
Congratulations on finishing your cardi 💕
I would love love love to see your
version of it so feel free to tag me on
Instagram (@nora.moon_). Also, you can
send me a question about the pattern in
case you will have so. Thank you again
and don’t forget to shine bright✨