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Purrmaid Pattern
(USA Stitch Terms)

Materials needed:

 1 x 50g ball Scheepjes Stone Washed in

“Moon Stone”
 Variegated yarn of your choice (less
than 50g required for tail)
 A scrap of black & a scrap of pink dk
yarn
 3.5mm hook
 Stuffing
 Stitch Marker (optional but advised –
particularly when working the head)
 Needle
 Scissors

Stitches used:

 Magic ring / circle

 Sc (single crochet)

 Inc (increase = 2sc in same stitch)

 Dec (decrease = 1sc over 2 stitches) – I use the invisible decrease working in
the front loops only – for a video on this, please watch this tutorial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUBbOZ1Ennk

 Hdc (half double crochet)

 Dc5tog (double crochet 5 together) – this forms a bobble for the toe – for a
video on this, please watch this tutorial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWq5DML6EtU

PLEASE NOTE – you will be securing your bobbles with a slip stitch NOT
a single crochet as is shown in most tutorials. Please only watch the dc5tog
bobble part of any tutorial!

 Slip Stitch (ss)

 Fsc (foundation single crochet) -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PY6Iy7gdVEM

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Repeat the pattern between the square brackets “[ ]” the number of

times as shown by “X number”

The number in brackets “( )” at the end of each round is your total stitches that you
will have worked in that round

Unless specifically instructed, work in spirals; do not join at the end of your rounds.

Purrmaid Head, Body & Tail – worked as one piece

The head is made using staggered increases to avoid the hexagonal increase lines you
would normally find in standard circle increasing.

You may find using a stitch marker at the end of your rows helpful for this part in
particular as the stitch count is more unusual than standard amigurumi increasing
and it is easy to lose your place!

So, with your trusty stitch marker at the ready – let’s begin!

Using Moon Stone

1. Magic ring, 6sc (6)

Place stitch marker and move after each subsequent round

2. [inc] x6 (12)
3. [1sc, inc] x6 (18)
4. 1sc, inc, [2sc, inc] x5, 1sc (24)
5. [3sc, inc] x6 (30)
6. 2sc, inc, [4sc, inc] x5, 2sc (36)
7. [5sc, inc] x6 (42)

8. sc in each stitch around (42)

9. sc in each stitch around (42)
10. sc in each stitch around (42)
11. sc in each stitch around (42)
12. sc in each stitch around (42)
13. sc in each stitch around (42)

14. [5sc, dec] x6 (36)

15. 2sc, dec, [4sc, dec] x5, 2sc (30)
16. [3sc, dec] x6 (24)
17. 1sc, dec, [2sc, dec] x5, 1sc (18)

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Stuff head firmly

18. [1sc, dec] x6 (12)

19. [2sc, dec] x3 (9)

Finish stuffing head

20. [2sc, inc] x3 (12)

21. [inc] x6, 6sc (18)

22. sc in each stitch around (18)

23. 4sc, [inc] x6, 8sc (24)

24. sc in each stitch around (24)

25. sc in each stitch around (24)

26. 7sc, [inc] x6, 11sc (30)

27. sc in each stitch around (30)

28. sc in each stitch around (30)

29. 10sc, [inc] x6, 14sc (36)

30. sc in each stitch around (36)

31. sc in each stitch around (36)

CHANGE COLOUR – use variegated yarn for tail section now

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32. sc in each stitch around (36)

33. sc in each stitch around (36)
34. sc in each stitch around (36)

Now we will begin shaping the bend in the tail. We will be using SHORT ROW
SHAPING.

This can be a little difficult to describe so I have included a colour coded chart
at the end of the short row shaping section to help visualise your stitches rather
than adding too many colour photographs.

No longer working in continuous rounds but working back and forth in rows.

Turn your work after each row. Your chain 1 does NOT count as a stitch.

You will be adding 2 stitches on each row and joining to row 34.

Your first added stitch will be your beginning stitch and will go into the stitch
behind where you have turned from the row below.

Your second added stitch will be your last stitch which goes into the next sc in
Row 34.

35. 2sc, ch1, turn. (2)

36. 1sc in row below, 2sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (4)

Row 36 in photo form!

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37. 1sc in row below, 4sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (6)

38. 1sc in row below, 6sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (8)

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39. 1sc in row below, 8sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (10)

40. 1sc in row below, 10sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (12)

41. 1sc in row below, 12sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (14)

42. 1sc in row below, 14sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (16)

43. 1sc in row below, 16sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (18)

44. 1sc in row below, 18sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (20)

45. 1sc in row below, 20sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, ch1, turn (22)

46. 1sc in row below, 22sc, 1sc in next stitch on row 34, SLIP STITCH in next stitch
along on row 34 (24)

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47. TURN your work. Skip ss, 1sc in each stitch around ending with your last sc
going into the same stitch as your slip stitch from last round. (36)

Back to working in continuous spirals

48. sc in each stitch around (36)

49. 27sc, [dec] x3, 3sc (33)

50. sc in each stitch around (33)

51. 26sc, [dec] x3, 1sc (30)

52. sc in each stitch around (30)

Stuff body section to tummy. Leave neck free of stuffing

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You will be using slip stitches in the next few rounds – try to keep them as loose
as possible otherwise you will struggle to get your hook into them on the
following round

53. 8sc, 10hdc, 8sc, 4ss (30)

54. 8sc, 10hdc, 8sc, 4ss (30)

55. 1ss, 7sc, 10hdc, 7sc, 5ss (30)

Stuff bottom

56. dec, 7sc, 10hdc, 7sc, [dec] x2 (27)

57. [dec] x2, 4sc, 11hdc, 4sc, [dec] x2 (23)

58. 6ss, 11hdc, 6ss (23)

59. 6ss, 11hdc, 6ss (23)

Stuff tail section a little more

60. dec, 6ss, 8hdc, 5ss, dec (21)

61. sc in each stitch around (21)

62. dec, 15sc, [dec] x2 (18)

63. sc in each stitch around (18)

64. sc in each stitch around (18)
65. sc in each stitch around (18)

Stuff. From this point, continue to lightly stuff and shape as you go.

66. [dec] x2, 12sc, dec (15)

67. sc in each stitch around (15)

68. sc in each stitch around (15)
69. sc in each stitch around (15)

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70. [dec] x3, 7sc, dec (11)

71. sc in each stitch around (11)

72. sc in each stitch around (11)
73. sc in each stitch around (11)

74. [dec] x2, 7sc (9)

75. sc in each stitch around (9)

76. sc in each stitch around (9)

77. 1sc, [dec] x3 (6)

78. sc in each stitch around (6)

Cut yarn, thread needle and run through the outside loops of the last 6 stitches, pull
tight then weave in.

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Tail Fin – first side

BLO = work into the back loop only

Chain 1 does not count as a stitch

1. [fsc] x9, ,ch1, turn (9)

2. BLO 9sc, ,ch1, turn (9)
3. BLO 7sc, ch1, turn (7)
4. BLO 7sc, ch1, turn (7)
5. BLO 5sc, ch1, turn (5)
6. 3ss (3)

Cut yarn leaving tail for sewing onto tail

Tail Fin – second side

BLO = work into the back loop only

Chain 1 does not count as a stitch

1. [fsc] x9, ,ch1, turn (9)

2. BLO 9sc, ,ch1, turn (9)
3. BLO 7sc, ch1, turn (7)
4. BLO 7sc, ch1, turn (7)
5. BLO 5sc, ch1, turn (5)
6. 3ss, then join to first side with 2ss through both fins. (5)

Cut yarn leaving tail for sewing onto tail

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Using the tail ends from your fsc, thread onto a needle and pass into the center of
your fins. Pass both tails through and knot securely at the back.

Pin to the main body of the tail then using your long tails (not the ones you just
knotted) sew onto the main tail down each side.

Weave all ends into the body of the tail.

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Arms – make two

1. Magic ring, 6sc (6)

2. [inc] x6 (12)
3. [1sc, inc] x6 (18)

4. 1sc, [dc5tog, ss] x4, 9sc (18)

Using the handle of your crochet hook or finger, push the bobbles from the
inside to ensure they are fully puffed out

5. 10hdc, [dec] x4 (14)

You will be using slip stitches in the next few rounds – try to keep them as loose
as possible otherwise you will struggle to get your hook into them on the
following round

6. 10hdc, [ss] x4 (14)

7. 10hdc, [ss] x4 (14)

8. 1ss, 7hdc, 1ss, 5sc (14)

9. sc in each stitch around (14)

10. [5sc, dec] x2 (12)

11. sc in each stitch around (12)

12. [2sc, dec] x3 (9)

Fasten off yarn leaving a long tail for sewing to the body.

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Leaving the arm unstuffed and flattening the paw gives a nice effect.

To flatten the paws, push the center of the paw flat firmly with your thumb to create
inward curve to the paw hands.

One arm will curve down whilst the other curves up. This makes your kitten very
posable and expressive!

Ears – make two

1. Magic ring, 3sc (3)
2. [inc] x3 (6)
3. [1sc, inc] x3 (9)
4. [2sc, inc] x3 (12)
5. [3sc, inc] x3 (15)

Fasten off yarn leaving a long tail for sewing to the head.

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Assembly

Pin ears and arms in place – I like to slightly squash the top of the arms and sew on
flat as this gives the kitten a floppy, posable quality.

Embroider the face with your pink and black scraps of yarn and you are done!

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The Legal Bit

The sharing of this pattern is not permitted. You may not sell this pattern, claim it as your
own or use the photographs.

You are however, welcome to sell your completed purrmaid.

I would appreciate it hugely if you include credit to me “HookedbyRobin” for the pattern
and a link to my store www.hoookedbyrobin.com

I would love to see any purrmaids you make! You can find me at the following places:

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/HookedbyRobin

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/puddnhead #hookedbyrobin

Twitter: https://twitter.com/HookedbyRobin

Ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/people/PuddnHeadPixie

Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/HookedbyRobinBray

Web: http://www.hookedbyrobin.com

Any problems? Drop me a line! hello@hookedbyrobin.com

©Robin Bray 2015 All Rights Reserved www.hookedbyrobin.com