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Lili’s Bobble Sweater
Lili’s Bobble Sweater is going to be your new favorite sweater. Knit with the super soft Hip Wool
and luxurious Hip Mohair, this is a fast and satisfying project. This sweater features puffy sleeves, a
cropped body, and a fun circular bobbled yoke.
The body and sleeves are worked in the round, bottom up, and then joined at the yoke. Decreases
are made after the bobbles round so bobbles are secure. If you’ve never knit bobbles before,
there’s a link with a helpful video under the bobbles section. German short rows are incorporated in
the back for a better neckline fit (optional).
Please read the entire pattern before you begin. Information on yardage is on the last page.
Happy knitting!
Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, Abbreviation:
5XL) CO cast on
Gauge: 16 sts x 18 rows = 10 x 10 cm sts stitches
on 6 mm (US 10) needles, pm place marker
after blocking k knit
p purl
Notions: cm centimeters
pm place marker
• 5 mm (US 8), 6 mm (US 10) 40 and 80 cm
MB6 make 6 sts bobble
(16 and 30 in) circular needles, 5 mm (US 8)
MB5 make 5 sts bobble
and 6 mm (US 10) dpns
MB4 make 4 sts bobble
• 450 (490, 540, 590, 660, 730, 790, 860,
RS right side
960) grams of Hip Wool in Gingerbread
WS wrong side
Brown or aran weight yarn
sl1wyif slip 1 st with yarn in front
• 90 (125, 145, 170, 195, 210, 230, 280, 300)
k2tog knit 2 stitches together
grams of Hip Mohair in Caramel Fudge
p2tog purl 2 stitches together
Brown or lace weight yarn
yo yarn over
• 3 stitch markers
BOR beginning of round
• tapestry needle
dpns double pointed needles
• stitch holder or scrap yarn
sk2p slip1, knit 2 sts together, pass
slip stitch over the knit 2
psso pass slip stitch over
Body: circular needles, pm and join in the round
Holding 1 strand of Hip Wool and 1 strand of being careful to not twist the sts.
Hip Mohair CO 112 (120, 128, 136, 144, 152,
160, 168, 176) sts, loosely, using 5 mm (US 8) *K2, p2* for 4 cm.
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Change to 6 mm (US 10) circular needles and Place next 8 (8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12) sts on
knit while you increase 16 sts evenly on the a st holder. Knit 39 (40, 41, 43, 45, 46, 48, 50,
first round. 51) sts of second sleeve and pm. Knit 56 (60,
128 (136, 144, 152, 160, 168, 176, 184, 192) 64, 67, 70, 74, 77, 80, 84) sts for back, pm for
sts BOR and short rows.
190 (200, 210, 220, 230, 240, 250, 260, 270)
Knit until you have 22 (23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 32, sts
33, 33) cm (or desired length) from cast on
edge. Do not knit the last 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, Knit one round.
6, 6) sts. Do not break yarn. Keep it for
joining body and sleeves, and working yoke German Short Rows (this step is optional):
later. Set aside and begin sleeves. You will now work 3 short rows in the back of
the sweater, in between the short row marker
Sleeves: and BOR marker you placed when joining
body and sleeves. Here is a link to the German
CO 24 (24, 24, 28, 28, 28, 28, 32, 32) sts
Short Rows Method: https://
using 5 mm (US 8) needles, pm and join in the
www.youtube.com/watch?v=52qy8OOb-s0
round (I like to use tiny circular needles, but if
Magic Loop or dpns are your preferred
Row 1 (RS): Slip BOR marker and knit to 5 st
method, go for it!).
before BOR marker.
Turn - you are now on the WS.
*K2, p2* for 3 cm.
Row 2 (WS): Slip the next st purlwise and pull
yarn to back (creating a double stitch), yf. Purl
Change to 6 mm (US 10) needles and increase
the next st tightly. Purl to 5 st before first short
23 (24, 25, 24, 27, 28, 31, 30, 31) evenly in
row marker.
this round.
Turn - you are now on the RS.
47 (48, 49, 52, 55, 56, 59, 62, 63) sts
Row 3 (RS): Bring yarn forward. Slip the next
st purlwise and pull yarn to back (creating a
Knit until sleeve measures 37 (39, 41, 43, 45,
double stitch). Knit the next st tightly. Knit to
47, 48, 48, 48) cm (or desired length) from
10 sts before BOR marker.
cast on edge. Do not knit the last 4 (4, 4, 5,
Turn - you are now on the WS.
5, 5, 6, 6, 6) stitches of last round.
Row 4 (WS): Slip the next st purlwise and pull
yarn to back (creating a double stitch), yf. Purl
Place the last 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) stitches
the next st tightly. Purl to 10 sts before first
and the first 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) stitches of
short row marker.
next round in a stitch holder or scrap yarn.
Turn - you are now on the RS.
Leave a 40 cm tail to graft underarms later.
Row 5 (RS): Bring yarn forward. Slip the next
39 (40, 41, 43, 45, 46, 48, 50, 51) sts
st purlwise and pull yarn to back (creating a
double stitch). Knit the next st tightly. Knit to
Set first sleeve aside. Make second sleeve.
15 sts before BOR marker.
Turn - you are now on the WS.
Yoke: Row 6 (WS): Slip the next st purlwise and pull
Join body and sleeves and place markers for yarn to back (creating a double stitch), yf. Purl
short rows as follows: the next st tightly. Purl to 15 sts before first
Place last 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) and first 4 (4, short row marker.
4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts of body on a st holder or Turn - you are now on the RS.
scrap yarn for underarm. Knit 39 (40, 41, 43, Row 7 (RS): Bring yarn forward. Slip the next
45, 46, 48, 50, 51) sts of first sleeve. Knit 56 st purlwise and pull yarn to back (creating a
(60, 64, 67, 70, 74, 77, 80, 84) sts for front. double stitch). Knit the next st tightly.
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Knit until you reach the “double stitches.” Knit MB4: Yo, k next st without dropping it, yo, k
through both legs of double stitch. the same st one last time. Drop all sts from
working needle. You now have 4 sts for your
Repeat this process until you have closed all bobble. Turn your work:
remaining gaps of this row. Knit to the end of WS: Sl1wyif, p3. Turn.
the round. RS: Sl1wyif, k3. Turn.
WS: P2tog 2 times. (2 sts) Turn.
RS: Sl1wyif, k1, psso.
You will now resume working in the round. One bobble complete.
Row 8 (RS): Slip BOR marker and K until you First bobbles round:
reach the “double stitches.” Knit through both *K9, MB6* to the end of this round.
legs of double stitch. Knit for 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7) cm.
Repeat this process until you have closed all Second bobbles round:
remaining gaps of this row. K to the end of the *K9, MB6* to the end of this round.
round.
First decrease round:
Bobbles: *K8, k2tog* to the end of this round.
Feel free to create bobbles with your preferred 171 (180, 189, 198, 207, 216, 225, 234, 243)
method. If you are not familiar with bobbles, sts.
here is a video that explains how you can Knit for 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) cm.
make them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=mTpZsSlsNCg Third bobbles round:
*K8, MB6* to the end of this round.
Or, use the following instructions:
Note that each bobble is worked with 1 st of Second decrease round:
the existing work. *K7, k2tog* to the end of this round.
152 (160, 168, 176, 184, 192, 200, 208, 216)
MB6: Yo, k next st without dropping it, yo, k sts.
the same st again without dropping it, yo, k the Knit for 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) cm.
same st one last time. Drop all sts from
working needle. You now have 6 sts for your Fourth bobbles round:
bobble. Turn your work:
*K7, MB6* to the end of this round.
WS: Sl1wyif, p5. Turn.
RS: Sl1wyif, k5. Turn.
WS: P2tog 3 times. (3 sts) Turn. Third decrease round:
RS: Sk2p. *K6, k2tog* to the end of this round.
One bobble complete. 133 (140, 147, 154, 161, 168, 175, 182, 189)
sts.
MB5: K next st without dropping it, yo, k the Knit for 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) cm.
same st again without dropping it, yo, k the
same st one last time. Drop all sts from Fifth bobbles round:
working needle. You now have 5 sts for your *K6, MB5* to the end of this round.
bobble. Turn your work:
WS: Sl1wyif, p4. Turn. Fourth decrease round:
RS: Sl1wyif, k4. Turn. *K5, k2tog* to the end of this round.
WS: P2tog, p1, p2tog. (3 sts) Turn.
114 (120, 126, 132, 138, 144, 150, 156, 162)
RS: Sk2p.
One bobble complete. sts.
Knit for 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4) cm.
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Sixth bobbles round: Measurements:
*K5, MB5* to the end of this round. Please note these measurements were taken
after blocking.
Fifth decrease round:
*K4, k2tog* to the end of this round. Sleeve length: 38 (39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 48, 48,
95 (100, 105, 110, 115, 120, 125, 130, 135) 48) cm.
sts. Body length: 23 (24, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 34,
Knit for 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) cm. 35) cm.
Chest circumference: 92 (97, 103, 109, 115,
Seventh bobbles round: 121,127, 133, 139) cm.
*K4, MB4* to the end of this round.
This sweater is designed to fit slightly looser,
Sixth decrease round: with 9 cm of positive ease. Please take these
*K3, k2tog* to the end of this round. details into consideration before choosing the
76 (80, 84, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104, 108) sts. right size for you.
Knit for 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1) round(s). Yardage:
If using a different aran/lace weight yarn than
Sizes 3XL, 4XL and 5XL only: suggested, this is the approximate yardage
Decrease round: you will need of each:
*K2, k2tog* to the end of this round.
75 (78, 81) sts. XS 788 yds / 720 m
Knit for 1 round. S 858 yds / 784 m
M 945 yds / 864 m
All sizes: L 1033 yds / 944 m
Decrease 12 (16, 20, 20, 24, 28, 7, 10, 13) sts XL 1155 yds / 1056 m
evenly for neckband. 2XL 1278 yds / 1168 m
64 (64, 64, 68, 68, 68, 68, 68, 68) sts 3XL 1383 yds / 1264 m
4XL 1505 yds / 1376 m
Neckband: 5XL 1680 yds / 1536 m
Change to 5 mm (US 8) needles.
1 ball of Hip Wool = 50 g / 88 yds / 80 m
*K2, p2* for 4 cm. 1 ball of Hip Mohair = 25 g / 230 yds / 210 m
Bind off loosely. (Here is a link to my preferred Kindly note that this pattern is for personal use
bind off method for neckbands. It is super only and cannot be sold or shared. Products
stretchy and easy to learn): https:// made from this pattern may not be sold.
www.anniescatalog.com/knit/content.html?
content_id=658&type_id=S I would love to see pictures of your project, so
please feel free to tag me on Instagram
Finishing: (@jojo.tricot) or use the hashtags #jojotricot
Use the Kitchener Stitch Method to graft and #lilisbobblesweater so we can connect!
underarms.
Please e-mail me comments and/or questions
Weave in loose ends, block it, and enjoy! at hello@jojotricot.com.
Thank you for your purchase!
Paula
