Iteration

Crochet With May

Thank you for purchasing my pattern! Please feel free to
contact me with any questions regarding the pattern and
methods used or to update me on your work!

Email: Crochet.With.May@gmail.com
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 Table of Contents

Background information ………………………………………………………………… Page 3

Terminology ………………………………………………………………...……………….. Page 7
Pattern Graph ….………………………………………………………...…………………. Page 8
Written Pattern ……………………………………………………………………………… Page 9
Border Instructions ………………………………………………………………………… Page 11

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 The Nitty Gritty

A quick mosaic how to:

Mosaic crochet is done using the back loop (or front loop) of the single crochet from one of the prior rows. It is
always worked from right to left and on the front side of the project. Every SC (single crochet) is worked in the
back loop only and every DC (double crochet) is worked into the front loop two rows down. The first two
stitches of every row and the last two stitches of every row are done as a normal single crochet (through both
loops) to “anchor” the row. For each row, the color being used is attached at the beginning and cut at the end.
Every other row is worked with Color A and the remaining rows with Color B. Consecutive double crochets will
result in a small “pocket” on the back of the project; this is entirely normal. This pattern is written in U.S.
terms only.

Finishing:
There are many ways to finish the hanging ends of a mosaic overlay crochet piece. An enveloped border is a
great way to keep the ends looking neat (pictured below, right). Instructions for the envelope border can be
found at the end of this pattern. You can also leave the fringed ends! When leaving a fringe, I will take three of
the ends and tie them together in an overhand knot (pictured below, left) to ensure the blanket does not
come apart during wash/use.

Yarn and Hook:

I chose to make mine with a 5mm hook and worsted weight (4 weight) yarn. You may use any color
combinations that you like! I used Red Heart yarn in Amethyst, Pumpkin, Black, and Yellow. I’ve provided
example sizes below, as well as example color combinations, but this pattern is a repeat of itself and almost

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any size is possible. Using different weighted yarns and hook sizes will result in a different dimension to your
project. It is perfectly fine to work with what you are comfortable with; just know you may need to add more
repeats (or remove some) to suit your needs.

Sizes and Colors:

The repeat stitch of this pattern is 18 stitches wide and 18 stitches tall. Each repeat is approximately 5” wide
and 4.75” tall. To calculate starting chain number, multiply the number of repeats by 18, then add 6. The
added 6 stitches account for the turning chain stitch, the symmetrical stitch, and 4 anchoring stitches (2 at
the beginning of each row and 2 at the end).

Below are some different color combination ideas. This pattern works well with almost all styles of yarn color!

Size Repeats

Baby Blanket Horizontal: 7 repeats

Vertical: 9 repeats
• 35” x 41”
1,855 yards (estimated) Ch: (7 x 18) + 6 = 132

Throw Horizontal: 10 repeats

Vertical: 13 repeats
• 50” x 60”
3,850 yards (estimated) Ch: (10 x 18) + 6 = 186

Twin Size Horizontal: 12 repeats

Vertical: 20 repeats
• 60” x 91.5”
7,080 yards (estimated) Ch: (12 x 18) + 6 =222

Each square repeat will use approximately 16g of yarn (29.5 yards).

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Each additional horizontal repeat will add approximately 5” to the width.

Each additional vertical repeat will add approximately 4.57” to the length.

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The Pattern

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Terminology:

• Ch: Chain
• SC: single crochet
• DC: double crochet
• BLOSC: back loop only single crochet
• FLODC2D: front loop only double crochet two rows down

Key

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Graph

The pattern repeat is within the RED box (columns 3-20, rows 4-21).

For example, for 3 repeats wide, I would do columns 1-20, then columns 3-20, then columns 3-23.

For 3 repeats tall, I would do rows 1-21, then rows 4-21, then rows 4-23.
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The Written Pattern

Terminology:

• Ch = chain
• F = FLODC2D
• B = BLOSC
• [ ] = repeat

*Color A is black in the graph. Color B is white in the graph.

The color for each row is in bold. The number of each type of stitch precedes its symbol. (i.e., 7F means 7
stitches of FLODC2D).

These instructions follow one repeat of this pattern. To add more sections, simply repeat the “repeat section”
of the graph. The repeat section is in black for vertical repeats. The beginning foundation and row are in red,
these are not repeating rows. For example, if I were completing 2 vertical repeats, I would complete red rows
(1-3), then rows 4-21, and then repeat rows 4-21. Rows 22 and 23 are only completed after your final repeat.

For horizontal repeats, simply repeat the stitches in the row you are working on. The repeating stitches in
each row are marked with [ ]. The remaining stitch is only completed in the final repeat. For example, if I was
working 3 horizontal repeats, the [ ] stitches would be repeated a total of 3 times and the last stitch is only be
included after the 3rd repeat.

IMPORTANT: To start each row, attach the correct color to the first stitch of the previous row with a slip
stitch. SC in the same stitch and SC in the next stitch. Follow the instructions in the corresponding row. To
finish each row, SC x 2, fasten off the yarn and cut it.

Row Instructions

Ch + 1 With Color A: chain (18 x repeat number) + 6. Turn. SC across. You should have
one less than you chained.

2 With Color B: [18B.] 1B.

3 A: [18B.] 1B.

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4 B: [4B. 3F. 5B. 3F. 3B.] 1B.

5 A: [4F. 3B. 5F. 3B. 3F.] 1F.

6 B: [4B. 3F. 5B. 3F. 3B.] 1B.

7 A: [2B. 1F. 13B. 1F. 1B.] 1B.

8 B: [2F. 15B. 1F.] 1F.

9 A: [5B. 9F. 4B.] 1B.

10 B: [2B. 3F. 9B. 3F. 1B.] 1B.

11 A: [2F. 3B. 2F. 5B. 2F. 3B. 1F.] 1F.

12 B: [2B. 3F. 2B. 5F. 2B. 3F. 1B.] 1B.

13 A: [2F. 3B. 2F. 5B. 2F. 3B. 1F.] 1F.

14 B: [2B. 3F. 2B. 5F. 2B. 3F. 1B.] 1B.

15 A: [2F. 3B. 2F. 5B. 2F. 3B. 1F.] 1F.

16 B: [2B. 3F. 9B. 3F. 1B.] 1B.

17 A: [5B. 9F. 4B.] 1B.

18 B: [2F. 15B. 1F.] 1F.

19 A: [2B. 1F. 13B. 1F. 1B.] 1B.

20 B: [4B. 3F. 5B. 3F. 3B.] 1B.

21 A: [4F. 3B. 5F. 3B. 3F.] 1F.

22 B: [4B. 3F. 5B. 3F. 3B.] 1B.

23 A: [18B.] 1B.

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Border Instructions
To make an envelope border:
• You will first tie the loose ends together to ensure they do not come apart
• Remember to use a hook that is 0.5-1 sizes smaller than the hook used for the body of the
project
• Next, you will crochet a slip stitch around the posts of your work from the front side
(shown below). This will be done continuously on all four sides.

At each corner, chain 2 before turning to

continue the next side (marked by the
yellow stitch marker).

o
• Double crochet in all slip stitches for 2 rounds (or however many you’d like)
o Fasten off

At each corner, chain 2 before turning to

continue the next side (marked by the
yellow stitch marker).

o
• Flip the piece over and double crochet in all slip stitches for the same number of rounds
o Fasten off
The needle is marking the back of the slip
stitches made from the front side. Use
these stitches to double crochet.

o
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• From the front of the piece, slip stitch through both the double crochet of the front and
back border pieces using the same color.

o
• Fasten off and cut the yarn. Hide the end of the tail

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I hope you enjoyed this pattern! Please share your work and tag me in it
on social media. Please also credit me and link this pattern when
posting images of the work; it’s greatly appreciated!

The work created from this pattern may be sold. This pattern is for personal use only. Any recreations,
alterations, or selling of this pattern (and/or its derivatives) is prohibited. You cannot share this pattern
with others and cannot create video tutorials using this pattern. If you find any mistakes, feel free to
contact me and I will address them. Thank you!

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