92805 Isop – two-color crocheted cap

The Isop (Hyssop) cap is crocheted like the sweater with the same name: in two-color crochet from the
top down with an elastic slip stitch ribbing. If the Isop pullover seems like too big of a challenge, this cap
is a good project to begin with. For the trickier techniques, such changing colors and crochet ribbing, see
the instruction videos on Järbo’s YouTube channel.

YARN Järbo 2 tr Ull (2-Ply Wool) (100% wool, 328 yd/300 m / 100 g)
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS
Alpacka Solo (100% alpaca, 183 yd/167 m / 50 g)
Elise (60% cotton, 40% acrylic, 184 yd/170 m / 50 g)
Tencel Raggi (75% wool, 25% Tencel, 291 yd/266 m / 100 g)
Merino Raggi (75% Merino wool, 25% polyamide, 304 yd/278 m / 100 g)
Llama Soft (85% llama, 15% polyamide, 164 yd/150 m / 50 g)
GAUGE Approx. 18 sc x 18 rnds through back loops with hook U. S. E-4 / 3.5 mm = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm.
Adjust hook size to obtain correct gauge if necessary.
SIZES Child (Woman, Man)
TO FIT HEAD CIRCUMFERENCE Approx. 19¾ (21¾, 23¾) in / 50 (55, 60) cm
YARN AMOUNTS AND COLORS
Color 1: Approx. 65 (70, 80) g (color 74104, Silver Stream)
Color 2: Approx. 20 (25, 30) g (color 74141, Jade Blue)
CROCHET HOOK U. S. sizes E-4 and G-6 / 3.5 and 4 mm
NOTIONS Locking stitch markers
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY **

Matching Pullover: 92804

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES

The cap is worked from the top down, in the round without turning, in single crochet (sc) through back
loops.
The ribbing for the brim is crocheted with slip stitches through back loops.
Begin by crocheting a ring with color 1, shaping it with increases; then the cylinder is worked in two
colors following the chart.
Carry a color not in use behind the work, but, when the float is more than 4 stitches, catch the float so
strands are not too long.
It Is important that the floats on the wrong side are relatively loose. Do not pull in the strands when you
crochet or change colors – otherwise, the cap will pull in.
See the instruction video for two-color crochet following a chart and making color changes on Järbo’s
YouTube channel.

Changing Colors: On last step of a stitch, bring new color through.

Changing Rounds: Do not use a slip stitch but simply continue around. Place a marker on the first stitch,
crochet around in pattern, and move marker up on each new round. This way, there is no visible jog
between the end and beginning of rounds.
Chart: Read from right to left, from the bottom up. Every square indicates a single crochet (sc)

Markers: Use a locking ring marker to mark the first stitch of a round and move marker up on each
round. Pm = place marker.
Increase: Work 2 sc through back loops into the same stitch.
Bl (back loop): All stitches are worked through the back loop – otherwise the pattern will skew.
Ch (chain stitch): Yarn over hook and through the loop on the hook.
Sl st (slip stitch): Insert hook into stitch of previous row, yarn over hook, through stitch and through
loop on hook.
Sc (single crochet): Insert hook into stitch of previous row, yarn over hook, bring yarn through stitch (= 2
loops on hook), yarn over hook and through the two loops on hook.
Sc2tog (2 single crochet stitches together): Insert hook into stitch of previous row, yarn over hook, bring
yarn through stitch (= 2 loops on hook), insert hook into next stitch, yarn over hook, bring yarn through
stitch (= 3 loops on hook), yarn over hook and draw through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 stitch decreased).
Yoh: Yarn over hook.
Magic Ring: See the instruction video on Järbo’s YouTube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6G0kZlcJHbA

NOTE U. S. crochet terms are used throughout.

BEGIN CAP
Begin with hook U. S. E-4 / 3.5 mm and color 1. Don’t forget: work all sc through back loop.
Rnd 1: Begin with a magic ring (alternately: ch 4 and join into a ring with 1 sl st into 1st ch), ch 1, work 6
sc around ring, carefully tug yarn end to pull magic ring together, pm in first sc = 6 sc.
Rnd 2: Increase 1 st in each st around, moving marker up on 1st st of rnd = 12 sc.
Rnd 3: *1 sc, increase 1*; rep * to * around = 18 sc.
Rnd 4: *1 sc into each of next 2 sc, increase 1*; rep * to * around = 24 sc.
Rnd 5: *1 sc into each of next 3 sc, increase 1*; rep * to * around = 30 sc.
Rnd 6: 1 sc into each of next 2 sc, increase 1, *1 sc into each of next 4 sc, increase 1*; rep * to * until 2
sts rem, 1 sc in each of last 2 sc = 36 sc.
Rnd 7: *1 sc into each of next 5 sc, increase 1*; rep * to * around = 42 sc.
Rnd 8: 1 sc into each of next 3 sc, increase 1, *1 sc into each of next 6 sc, increase 1*; rep * to * until 3
sts rem, 1 sc in each of last 3 sc = 48 sc.
Rnd 9: *1 sc into each of next 7 sc, increase 1*; rep * to * around = 54 sc.
Rnd 10: 1 sc into each of next 4 sc, increase 1, *1 sc into each of next 8 sc, increase 1*; rep * to * until 4
sts rem, 1 sc in each of last 4 sc = 60 sc.
Rnd 11: *1 sc into each of next 9 sc, increase 1*; rep * to * around = 66 sc.
Rnd 12: 1 sc into each of next 5 sc, increase 1, *1 sc into each of next 10 sc, increase 1*; rep * to * until 5
sts rem, 1 sc in each of last 5 sc = 72 sc.
Rnd 13: *1 sc into each of next 11 sc, increase 1*; rep * to * around = 78 sc.
Rnd 14: 1 sc into each of next 6 sc, increase 1, *1 sc into each of next 12 sc, increase 1*; rep * to * until 6
sts rem, 1 sc in each of last 6 sc = 84 sc.

Rnd 15 (Woman, Man): *1 sc into each of next 13 sc, increase 1*; rep * to * around. Rnd 15 (Child):
Work as for adult sizes but omit 2 increases = 88 (90, 90) sc.

Child: Continue directly to Cylinder.

Woman, Man:
Rnd 16: 1 sc into each of next 7 sc, increase 1, *1 sc into each of next 14 sc, increase 1*; rep * to * until 7
sts rem, 1 sc in each of last 7 sc = 96 sc.
Rnd 17: Increase - (3, 6) times evenly spaced around = - (99, 102) sc.
Woman: Continue directly to Cylinder.

Man:
Rnd 18: 1 sc into each of next 8 sc, increase 1, *1 sc into each of next 16 sc, increase 1*; rep * to * until 8
sts rem, 1 sc in each of last 8 sc = 108 sc.
Rnd 19: Increase 2 times evenly spaced around = - (-, 110) sc.

Cylinder:
Use hook U. S. E-4 / 3.5 mm and colors 1 and 2.

Rnds 1-24: Work following chart with colors 1 and 2. Every square = sc 1 in bl. The chart sts are repeated
8 (9, 10) times around the cylinder.

NOTE Never end rnd with a slip st and do not turn when changing colors – continue directly to next rnd,
moving marker up to 1st st of new rnd. = 88 (99, 110) sc.

After completing cylinder, cut color 2 and continue with color 1 only for ribbing.

RIBBING
Use hook U. S. G-6 / 4 mm and color 1.
Make 1 sl st into next sc and then ch 11.
Turn and work 1 sl st into 2nd ch from hook and then 1 sl st into each of the rem 9 ch back in towards cap
edge.
*1 sl st in each of next 2 sc on cap; turn (the yarn lies above work), 1 sl st in bl in each of next 10 sl sts of
the little strip that began ribbing, ch 1; turn, 1 sl st into each of the 10 sl sts in towards cap edge*; rep *
to *; 1 sl st in next sc of cap; turn (the yarn lies above work), 1 sl st in bl in each of the 10 sl sts in ribbing,
ch 1; turn, 1 sl st in bl in each of next 10 sl sts in towards cap edge.
Repeat this entire sequence all around edge of cap.
Join first and last rows of brim with sl st through both layers.
Cut yarn.

FINISHING
Weave in all ends neatly on WS.
Wash either on wool/gentle setting in machine or by hand – washing is absolutely necessary so cap will
be soft and lovely to wear, so the stitches fall into place, and so wool will bloom. Lay the wet cap on a
flat surface, pat out to finished measurements, and leave until completely dry.
TIPS & SHORTCUTS
To avoid questions: Before you begin knitting, read through the pattern.

Stitch count: Always knit or crochet a gauge swatch as recommended in the pattern. If your stitch count doesn’t match the
gauge given in the pattern, try again with larger or smaller needles or hook. If your gauge doesn’t match that in the pattern,
your item will not be the correct size or shape.

Highlight the size you will knit or crochet throughout the pattern to make it easier to follow the instructions.

Charts: It will be easier to follow a chart if you mark your row with a ruler and magnetic board or sticky note.

Ease: The amount of ease included in our garments varies depending on the type and shape of the garment. To determine the
right size, we recommend that you first measure your body. Then you can calculate the garment size depending on how much
ease you want the garment to have. The schematics for each piece show all the garment measurements.

Two-color stranded knitting: When knitting more than 3-4 stitches of the same color, twist the color strands around each other
on the wrong side to avoid long strands or “floats” on the back. If the yarns need to be twisted on several rows/rounds, make
sure you do not stack the twists in the same place to prevent the yarns from showing through on the right side.

Yarn alternative: Please be aware that the gauge (tension), yarn quantity and the shape of the work varies if you use another
yarn (even in the same yarn group).

Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from time to time. To
get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two rows from another skein.

ABBREVIATIONS

KNITTING
alt = alternately, approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, BO = bind off, cc = contrasting color, cn = cable needle,
CO = cast on, col = color, cont = continue, dec = decrease, dpn(s) = double-pointed needles, EOR = end of row/round, fl = front
loop, g st = garter stitch, inc = increase, k1f&b = knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k = knit (stitch), k2tog = knit two
stitches together (right-slanting decrease), kw = knitwise, LH = left hand needle, m = marker, mm = millimeters, mc = main
color, p = purl (stitch), patt = pattern, pm = place marker, pw = purlwise, rep = repeat, rnd(s) = round/rounds, RH = right hand
needle, RM = remove marker, RS = right side, sl = slip, sl m = slip marker, ssk = slip, slip, knit, st(s) = stitches, St st =
stockinette/stocking stitch, tog = together, WS = wrong side, wyib = with yarn in back, wyif = with yarn in front, yo = yarn over

CROCHETING
approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, ch = chain stitch, col = color, cont = continue, dc = double crochet, dec =
decrease, dtr = double treble crochet, fl = front loop, hdc = half double crochet, htr = half treble crochet, inc = increase, m =
marker, mc = main color, rep = repeat, rnd/rnds = round/rounds, RS = right side, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, sts =
stitches, tog = together, tr = treble crochet, tr tr = triple treble crochet, WS = wrong side, yo = yarn over

DIFFICULTY

* = Suitable for those who have just started knitting or crocheting

** = Suitable for those who have knitted or crocheted some before
*** = Suitable for those who are experienced knitters or crocheters

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