Ottobre 03/2013-10: Sporty Pocket Shorts

Now that the weather has changed, Logan has begrudgingly given up his wardrobe of knit pants and a tee shirt for his summer wardrobe of knit shorts and a tee shirt. I know, he's taking some fashion risks here... Of course, last summer's shorts are all ridiculously too small, so it's time for a few new pair.

I'm trying to add some new elements to his wardrobe, so instead of the boring one-seam shorts he's outgrown, we're going for some more interesting details. Not too interesting, of course or he won't wear them, but a contrast pocket and some side seam trim might be acceptable...

And he actually loves them, so I'm thrilled! I love it when I take a risk and it works out.

The pattern is from the latest issue of Ottobre, and is model # 10, the Sporty Pocket shorts. In the magazine, they are modeled by a toddler and made up of four different fabrics, but the line drawing convinced me that these could be toned down for my Kindergartener. My favorite thing about the design is the front pockets. They look like complicated welt pockets, but they aren't. They are embellished side seam pockets and they were actually pretty easy to do.

On the back, there is a single patch pocket that is rounded on one side and inserts into the side seam on the other. The side seam is embellished with a contrast panel. The shorts themselves are knit (french terry from Mood), but the back pocket and side seam panel are woven fabric, in this case a broadcloth. I like how nicely the side panel breathes. It's like a little air conditioning.

The waistband is made of rib knit with elastic inserted like a casing. I had a little trouble with this part. You are supposed to stitch on the rib knit right sides together in just one layer, fold it over then topstitch it down with a decorative or flatlock stitch. I'd planned to coverstitch from the reverse side so that the looper side would show (which is what I did to attach the front pockets), but I couldn't keep my stitching straight from the wrong side, and it was so bad looking. I ripped out all the coverstitching and just sewed the outside edge of the rib knit to the seam allowance on the inside, so it made a regular casing. It's a little rough looking on the inside, but it looks good on the outside.

They passed the worn all day and got really dirty test, so I think they're a success. I'm not sure if I should go forward with another pair in the same pattern or try something else new...

Ottobre 06/2010-10 - the "Eleonor" dress

After some therapeutic snap pounding, Myra's dress is done.

I brought it out of the garage and Myra insisted on wearing it immediately.  I think it's pretty darn adorable on her.  It's perfect to coordinate with the boys.

The pattern is Ottobre 06/2010-10.  They call it the Eleonor dress.  Otto made their version with the bib in a solid and the body of the dress in a print.  I reversed it to better mesh with the boys' outfits. I made a size 98, which is just a touch too big, but I'd rather she have room to grow then have it be too small for Easter.

I cut the bib on the bias, which looks cute, but was very tricky to sew.  The pintucks came out straight only with the help of a large quantity of starch. The snaps made the front placket ripple just a tiny bit. The interfacing is on grain and that helped stabilize that area. I did get the attachment for pearl snaps for my snap setter, and it is great! No more cracked snaps!

Another detail shot. These are my first pintucks and I'm pretty darn proud of them! You can see in this picture that the inside neckline is finished with a strip of bias rather than enclosed in the collar or faced.  It's a very neat finish and looks RTW, IMHO. The only thing I disliked about the pattern was the finish for the sleeve slit.  Otto called for a narrow hem, but I did a continuous lap instead. I was already cutting a strip of bias for the neckline, so I just cut two and used the extra for the sleeve.  Much nicer! I'm also happy with my collar! I always forget to trim my undercollar piece and the seam tends to roll to the right side. Well, this time I made a separate pattern piece for the undercollar. It worked beautifully and all the seams roll to the inside.  I'm very happy with how this dress turned out. Next I'll be working on mine, but first I have a surprise to make.  I'll reveal all once it has been gifted!