Simplicity 3678 maxi

Hey look! It's me! I know y'all, I haven't been around much, and the few things I've sewn for me have been boring necessities. But I finally made myself something new and somewhat frivolous! Actually not at all because ITY maxi dresses are my summer uniform, so this will get worn all the time. But I digress - the dress!

This is Simplicity 3678, which I've made before (here). This is the first time I've tried this style bodice though, and I have to say, I'm pretty thrilled with it. During the maaaaannnnnyyyy years I was nursing my babies, I wore only wrap/surplice bodice dresses for easy nursing access, and I sort of got into a rut. But my last baby weaned 4 years ago, so it's well past time for some variety!

So, let's chat about this bodice. The neckband is shaped and faced. The pattern called for a self-fabric facing with fusible interfacing. Y'all know I'm incapable or following a pattern... I decided to try something out and instead used powernet for my facing pieces. I love how it turned out! The facing is nice and stable, but still stretchy and comfortable. Not to mention lightweight! Definitely going to do this in the future for knit facings.

The back bodice is straighforward, but the pattern uses this back for both bodices, so it was drafted without the neckband. Annoying but minor. I drafted one for it. The skirt back has a bit of gathering, if you've some fluff you'd like to minimize, but not enough to look juvenile or emphasize anything you'd rather not.

For the sleeve, I used the cap sleeve from another view. I like this sleeve a lot. It's double layered, so no hemming. It did require a tiny bit of altering to fit into this armscye, so if you're sleeve swapping with this pattern, be sure to check.

For fit, I added some length to the bodice in order to fake an FBA. Since the bodice is ruched, there is plenty of space horizontally, but I did need a couple of inches of length to cover the girls. I added length throughout the area of gathering and then tapered off around to the back, which didn't require any alterations for me. Obviously I also added significant length to the skirt to make it a maxi. After it was done, I actually went back and forth about the length, even polling the interwebs for length opinions. It was hotly contested! In the end, y'all liked the maxi just a little bit better, and given my maxi bias, that's what I went with. After all, I can always cut it shorter if it makes me crazy!

The final, critical alteration - pockets! Seriously, why else do we sew but to have well fitting clothes with POCKETS! Get with the program, Simplicity and put pocket pieces in your patterns. Seriously though, how hard is that?!

Final verdict? I love it! Maxi dresses are my favorite. I don't know why I questioned it. But maybe I should make another one in a knee length...

Simplicity Maxi Mashup

Summer is all about maxi dresses for me! I love them and I wear them all the time when the weather gets warm. So, when I got this fabric from Heather, I knew immediately what it was going to be.

My favorite maxi dress pattern is Simplicity 3503, which I have made a couple of times. I really do love this pattern, but it is a bit distinctive, and I didn't want a bunch of the same dress in my closet. My favorite thing about this pattern is the skirt. The front gathers are flattering, and the length is perfect. And it has pockets. Easy to add, I know, but it's so convenient when they are already a part of the pattern!

I decided to use the bodice from Simplicity 3678, which I've made before and really like the fit of. The only dislike I have about this pattern is that the midriff band is a bit skinny. I have a long torso, and it looks unbalanced on me. The midriff band from 3503 is perfect though, and it fit onto this bodice really well.

From the back, you can see that the bodice is full coverage, unlike the surplice style of 3503. The tiny cap sleeves are cute, too.

The only real change I made to the bodice (which I also did on my last version) was to finish the neckline with a snug band. I love how this fits the surplice top to my chest. No worries about gaping or wearing a camisole, and I can leave my safety pins at home.

I also ought to mention that I've decided to participate in Me Made May this year. I probably won't post more than just a roundup here on the blog, but you can see my outfits each day on Instagram. I'm hoping this helps boost my flagging mojo. Since I already got a dress made this month, I think it's working!!

Simplicity 3678 Knit dress

Springtime arrives and suddenly all I want to make are dresses. Comfy, knit dresses.

So on a whim, I made one. Because this fabulous fabric had been in my stash far too long.

Since this is a border print, I needed a pattern with a straight hemline, and I generally favor flared skirts, so none of my favorite knit dress patterns would do. I perused the pattern stash and came across Simplicity 3678, which was a PR best pattern in 2008.

I'm actually not sure why I haven't made this before! It has almost all of my favorite things - wrapped, pleated bodice, midriff band, nice v neckline... I must have been nervous about the gathers around the tummy area, but my favorite maxi dress pattern has them, so I decided to go for it.

The only thing I had to add was pockets. I cannot wear a dress without pockets. I just grabbed the pattern piece from Vogue 1027 and added them to the side seam.

Speaking of side seams... Print matching, much?? So happy with how well the motif matched up here!! It was partly careful planning and partly luck.

For fit, I made my usual Simplicity flat pattern alterations. I think this bodice may run a bit short, as it turned out that way on me. The shoulder seam is just slightly forward at the neckline, but the fit is still OK. When I'm making a surplice top, I basically ignore the pattern markings for the wrap. I construct the bodice (including side seams!) and then try it on, arranging the wrap the way I like. I generally find that I like a more snug wrap than the pattern calls for, so I often have to alter the skirt to fit after I've wrapped the bodice. In this case, I took about an inch out of the midriff band width, and just gathered the skirt to fit.

I do love the fit in back though. So sleek, even with the slightly gathered skirt!

The fabric is an amazing border printed ITY from FabricMart. I got this one in a fabric bundle, and it was exactly enough for this dress. I love those bundles. I get something amazing every time!

So basically this is my new favorite dress. I can't believe I let this pattern and this fabric sit in my stash for so long!! What gems are you holding on to? Go! Cut!