Jalie 2105 leotard and how to colorblock

Myra has been asking for a new leotard for gymnastics for a couple of weeks now. Her current leo has long sleeves and full length legs and it's getting a little too warm in the gym for that.

I decided to jump on the SCUBA trend, which I think lends itself really well to a gym leotard. I skipped the zipper, since I didn't think it would be comfortable for gymnastics, but went for some colorblocking and a wetsuit like shape.

I used Jalie 2105, which is unfortunately out of print. I'm glad I snapped it up when I did. This is the third time I've used it and I know I will use it again. For this version, I shortened the leg and sleeve to give her a cap sleeve, shortie leotard that should be comfortable in the summer heat.

I extended the neon pink animal print colorblocked area in back as well, although the back panel is narrower. It's pretty pointy at the top, which was kind of a pain to sew.

The fabrics I used were a black milliskin matte spandex, originally from Spandex World, but left over from these bike shorts I made for Mitch. The neon pink animal print was a recent purchase from Spandex World. It's a cotton/lycra spandex, so it has a spongy softness that is very comfortable. Myra really likes it. But then. it's neon pink animal print, so that was a given.

Today's Tip

Today I wanted to show you how easy it is to colorblock any pattern, and share with you one of my favorite marking tools.
The first step in colorblocking any pattern is to decide where you want to "cut up" the pattern. I like to draw right on my pattern pieces before I trace them. It saves me the step of then retracing to add seam allowances.

I use these amazing Frixion pens. I first heard about them from Elizabeth, and they have changed my life. They are completely erasable with a touch of heat. I use them to mark patterns, fabric, pretty much everything. A shot of steam or a touch of the iron removes the mark. So, I use the Frixion pens to outline the size I'm using.

Then in a separate color (so that I don't get confused), I draw my colorblocking line or lines. Now I'm ready to trace. Trace each side of the pattern piece as a separate piece, and remember to add a seam allowance along both sides of the colorblocking lines.

My final front pattern pieces look like this. I used a 1/4 inch seam allowance on the seam that joins my colorblocked section as that is the seam allowance used throughout the pattern. Again so I don't get confused; you can use whatever SA you want.

Now you can take your iron to your pattern pieces and it'll look good as new. Love those Frixion pens.

Now reassemble the panels you colorblocked before you start construction on the garment. Once they are put back together, you can treat them just like the pieces they were originally and follow the pattern instructions as written. Or not. You're the sewist. If you choose to line your garment, you can use the original pattern pieces to reduce the seamlines in your lining.

Jalie 2792 leotard, but with legs

Last week at gymnastics, Myra managed to put a hole in her old leo (which was also getting small). I am darn pleased we actually got an entire year's worth of wear out of it actually, but it was time for a new one.

Despite the fact that it is actively snowing outside, Myra had to try it out immediately.

I blended two Jalie patterns to get the final look that I wanted. The bodice (above the waist) is from Jalie 2792 and the legs (below the waist) is from Jalie 2105 (OOP). Both patterns had the waistline marked, which made blending them very easy.

I really like the upper bodice of 2792, particularly the option of the keyhole in back. It's so pretty! 2105 is a great basic leotard, but the neckline is wide and a bit low in back and tended to slip down Myra's shoulders. This one seems more secure.

Up close, you can see that the back keyhole actually has a closure at the neckline that allows for ease of dressing. I elected to use my coverstitch binder on the openings, rather than the stitched on bands from the pattern. In retrospect, I should have cut off the seam allowances of the neckline and keyhole, at least right at the area where they insert into the clasp. As you can see, they are all bunched up in there, and getting them in was a bit challenging. 

Since Myra chose a solid pink for her fabric, I added a little stretch piping (from Sew Sassy) to make it a little more interesting. I sewed it between the yoke seams on front and back, then sewed up the side seams. The piping matched up beautifully with just a little basting. I am very pleased.

Myra gave it a workout in the living room and says she likes it. We'll see how it performs on Monday at the gym, but for now I think we have a winner!

Linked up!

Jalie 2105

Also entitled, "How I avoided sewing a Rapunzel costume and instead sewed Spandex". No, really Myra did need a new leotard for gymnastics. Her class is early enough in the morning that it is still quite chilly and her thin Texas blood needed more coverage.

This pattern is Jalie 2105, which is actually for a ballet leotard. I love that it has long legs and 3/4 sleeves, which gives Myra lots more coverage, both for the morning chill and for the inevitable bumps and bruises.

The fabric is from SpandexWorld. Myra likes the sparkle of the hologram spandex, but it is a little itchy. the lilac sleeves are a heavier weight milliskin, which is very nice and was quite pleasant to sew, for spandex.

Her gym is pretty dark, but the flash did weird things to the fabric, so this is the best picture I managed (out of 160) that shows the proportions of the leotard. The sleeves are right at elbow length on Myra, and the legs are just below the knee. Size-wise, she is an F based on her measurements, but her length is in the G, so I lengthened the body to accommodate her long torso. Jalie provides a girth measurement that is really helpful in determining the length to use.

The biggest challenge I had with the last leotard was the neckline. I really appreciated everyone who chimed in with advice and help. I managed to get my hands on several Stretch & Sew patterns (Thanks to Mom and Debbie!!) and got some swim elastic in place of the knitted elastic I used last time.

I also decided to try out the coverstitch, since I coverstitched the hems. Boy, did it look like a hot mess when it came off the machine!

Fortunately, it lies nice and flat on Myra. Pardon the grumpy face. I think she was a little tired of the camera at this point. I really am happy with this neckline, but I sort of wish I hadn't changed two things at once, since now I'm not sure if it is the swim elastic, coverstitch or both that made it lay so nice and flat. I really do like the softness of the swim elastic though, and I think that was probably the major contributor. The coverstitch actually feels a little flimsy as compared to the triple zigzag. I guess we'll see how this wears.

I'm really glad that I'm taking the plunge into activewear. Although we're heading into our first real winter ever, I'm sort of excited for summer swimwear! Fortunately, gymnastics is year round and Myra is a clotheshorse. She's already requested a pink sparkly one.

So, today is the first day of Sewing Summit!! I am beyond excited!! I can't wait to hang out with all the awesome sewists. I even made a new top to wear. Hopefully i can get some fun pictures at the Summit!

Jalie 2792

Myra just started gymnastics classes last week, which naturally means she needs something to wear. While the boys generally just wear knit shorts and tees, a leotard is de rigeur for the girls. And can we talk about how expensive these little leotards are?? Despite my trepidation about sewing this, there was no way I was paying that much for less than a quarter yard of spandex.

Not too shabby for my first attempt at what is essentially swimwear (yikes!).

The pattern is Jalie 2792. This is the simplest view, scoop neck and back without sleeves. All of the openings are elasticated. The fabric is a midweight poly Spandex from Spandex World. I went with a basic cotton candy pink for my first attempt, but once I get the bugs ironed out, there is some pink and purple hologram that she's going to LOVE.

Here is the back. For the leg openings, I used a trick that my friend Beth has had good luck with. Instead of evenly stretching the elastic to fit the leg opening, I left it unstretched on the front half and then stretched the back half only. This really makes sense if you think about it, since most of the roundness in the body is in the back. In the interest of decency, I won't provide an image of that area, but it fits her really well, and after wearing it all day, it didn't ride up at all.

For the topstitching, I was initially planning to coverstitch,but I noticed that the other girls leotards had a three step zigzag, so that is what I used. I think I may try the coverstitch to see how it looks on the next one, but the zigzag is nice and sturdy.

Fit-wise, Myra is long and skinny, so I used the width from the smallest size (F) and lengthened it to the next length (G) in the body section only. Like me, she is smaller in her upper torso, so I left the bodice sections the size F. This seems to have worked well. It looks good, and she was comfortable and had plenty of room to move in it.

Overall, I'm pleased with it, particularly as it is a first attempt. There are a couple of things I didn't like. Mostly they were due to my own inexperience. First was the way the neckline sits.

See how it sticks straight out from her body? I did use regular 1/4 inch elastic, since I haven't yet found the box with my clear elastic in it. The armholes and leg openings, which use the same elastic, lie nice and flat. What did I do? Anyone have any insights into how I can make that look better?

The other thing I didn't love is the wee crotch lining. Since this isn't swimwear, and she wears underthings with it, it doesn't really matter, but it really doesn't provide any coverage. The spandex I used is a little sheer and Myra kept pointing out the Micky Mouse printed on her diaper that you could see right through it. I think I'll line the entire front bodice next time around, at least when using fabric this relatively sheer. the crotch lining is applied by just basting it along the leg holes, so the two ends are not attached to anything and are unfinished. I stitched the back end into the seam, but the front end is flapping free; another argument for a full bodice lining.

Look at that form! She's a natural! And I am really happy with this first attempt. I'm pleased with how well the sizing worked out. Once I figure out the elastic thing, maybe it'll be time to attempt a suit for me? There may be more challenges fitting my figure...

Linked up at The Train to Crazy...