Reversible Scrub Cap Tutorial with Free Pattern and SVG!

You will need:
The pattern pieces (click here). Be sure to assemble the band piece by overlapping the two pieces and taping as indicated on the pattern pieces.
2 pieces of coordinating fabric, ½ yard each or a fat quarter will work
42 inches bias tape. I used extra wide for this tutorial, but if you prefer narrow, that also works
Thread
Something to use to cut - either shears or rotary cutter
A sewing machine
An iron

Nice to have
Press cloth
Pressing ham


1: Press your fabric! Particularly if you are using a fat quarter as they are often quite creased from being folded.

2. Cut out your pieces. You will need one top piece and one band (cut on the fold) out of each coordinating fabric. If you are using fat quarters, fold in half and cut the band first, then unfold to cut the top. As you are cutting, be sure to notch or mark the center front and back of the top and center front of the band at the upper (curved) edge. If you are using a cutting machine to cut your pieces, you will need a 12x24 inch mat, as this will cut out single layer.

3. Right sides together, match up the center front of the top with the center front of the band and pin.

4. Going around the top, pin the band in place right sides together along the round edge. Sew with a 1/4 inch seam allowance all around the curved edge of the cap. Leave the bottom edge unsewn. Your band should match fairly closely, but as you are matching up curved edges, you may have to ease the top piece slightly into the band. Don’t worry about basting stitches or anything - it’s not that much. When you stitch this at your machine, be sure that the top is down against the feed dogs as your sew, and hold your work taught as it stitches. This will allow the feed dogs to ease in the top as needed.

5. Press your seam down toward the band. This is much easier if you have a pressing ham!
6. Now repeat steps 3-5 with your other coordinating fabric.

You should have 2 little caps!
7. Fold one wrong side out and the other right side out and nest them right sides together.

8. PIn and stitch the two layers together along the back edge of the cap, matching the center back and the seams.

9. Press the seam open, then nest the two layers WRONG sides together, folding at your newly pressed seam. Now Press the seam flat, making sure your fabric isn’t rolling to one side or the other.

Now it’s starting to look like a cap! My finger is indicating your back seam. You still should have raw edges along the lower border of the cap. Let’s take care of that, as well as making ties all in one step.

10. Make sure that the raw edges of your cap are aligned and place a pin at center front of the band. Get your bias tape and if you haven’t already, cut a 42 inch long piece and fold it in half to determine the center.

11. Matching the center of your tape with your center front pin, wrap the tape around the raw edges of your cap. You want to stick it in as far as you can, aligning the cut edge with the fold inside the tape. Pin the tape in place all around the cap. (Note: If you are a bias tape pro, you can do this without all the pinning. Your ties will be 10 inches long, so just stitch up the 10 inch ties first, and insert the cap at the point, and then stitch around, adding the second 10 inch tie at the end.)

12. Start stitching at one end of your bias tape. If you notice in the above picture, one side of the bias tape is less wide than the other. This is done intentionally at the factory to make it easier to apply. Be sure you are stitching with the “shorter” side up so that when you get to the cap section, you will be confident you are stitching through all the layers, since the bottom side hangs farther over. Stitch all the way down the edge of your first tie, around your cap and along the edge of the other tie, all the way to the end in one pass.

I like to use a 3 step zigzag stitch for this - I just like the way it looks - but you can choose any stitch you prefer. Some machines have interesting decorative stitches and this would be a great place to use them! Have fun!

13. Finish the end of your bias tape ties by either narrowly hemming them, or zigzag stitching across the ends and trimming off any excess. I find hemming a bit bulky, so I go the zigzag route. You could also add a knot at the end, or even a decorative bead.

Look at that! You’re done! Now you’re the most stylish in the OR! I added some embroidery to mine, and if you are interested in embellishing your cap in some way, do so before you assemble the pieces. It’s much easier to embellish flat fabric!

ETA: Several of y'all have asked about making these caps in a single layer, which is a great way to conserve fabric and make them faster! My friend Kristine made a great video showing us all how to easily convert the pattern to a single layer. Even if you are doing a double layer cap, she has some great tips for sewing the pattern in general! Check out her video here!

To download the pattern pieces, and a pdf of the instructions, click below!
Pattern
Instructions

And just for kicks (and so I could play with my new Cricut Maker), I also created an SVG file for those of you who have cutting machines that can handle unbonded fabric. You can download the SVG here. If you need to resize, the band should measure 4.324in x 22.648in, and the top should measure 6.758in x 10.408in.
Note: the svg file will not open in your browser, so if you click on it, you will get a plain black screen and it looks like it doesn't work. You will need to right click on the link and download the file, then upload the svg file into your cutter software.

Simplicity 4378 again

Whew!  These took me forever, and I fudged so many things on them.  Don't look closely at the breast pocket.  It is completely in Mitch's armpit.  I'm not sure how I did that, since I used the same placement markings as last time and the pocket is fine on the last set.  And the shoulder pleats are facing the wrong direction.  WTH??  Anyway, Mitch declares them wearable, so I'm calling that good enough!

Like the cheesy pose I talked him into?

It just goes to show that when you aren't really excited about a project, you won't really have your mind on it.  My head has been occupied with other things.
My Sew Chic Myrtlewood pattern arrived, as well as the pink and brown herringbone wool from which I am planning to make it.  Now I just need lining fabric and an accent piece for the hip sash.  I was planning a trip to Dallas yesterday with my mom to go to the Golden D'Or in search of the perfect thing, but Myra developed a stomach bug, so I stayed home with her.  Now I'm waiting for some swatches of Ambiance and some silk dupioni to come from fabric.com in hopes of a color match.  We'll see...
On the houndstooth coating front I've nearly decided to use Simplicity 2764, although I am very nervous about pattern matching.  The front isn't actually a princess seam, but rather a shaped release tuck.  Interesting construction, but we'll have to see how it plays out in real life.  The cover picture shows a plaidish fabric, so I'm hoping that bodes well for my houndstooth, but I am worried about how my inevitable FBA will distort the lines.  We'll just have to see.  I'd like for this to be an early foray into learning some tailoring techniques, specifically stabilizing the raglan sleeve with a stay and building in some structure with interfacing.  I'm also planning to add a lining, which the pattern does not include.  It should be an interesting adventure.
These two projects have totally taken over all sewing portions of my brain, so I really can't be responsible for my actions in the sewing room right now.  I think I may have to shove aside my January plans in favor of this dress and jacket.  How fun is that!?
And before I go - another cheesy shot of my cute hubby!

Tutorial: Bound Neckline on Scrubs

Scrubs are one thing that I always thought should be an easy sew, but pattern companies have failed me. Mostly they are OK, but the neckline finishes that they use are disappointing at best.  Facings and sewn on bands are what I've found, but all RTW scrubs that I've ever seen or worn have a bound neckline.  It's nicer looking and a cleaner finish inside.  Here is how I did mine.

You will need:
A scrub top pattern that you like (aside from the neckline finish!)
A bit of extra fabric for binding.  You'll probably have some scraps that will be plenty large after you cut out your scrubs.  You can skip all of the "making the binding" steps if you find commercial bias tape that is a color and width you like, but I wanted a fabric match and a different width, so I'm including the how-to for that.
Spray starch
Straightedge ruler
Chalk for marking
Fabric glue stick or basting tape

First you need to prep your pattern.  Since you will be binding the neckline, you want both back and front necklines to be at their finished height.  That is, remove any seam allowances for facings.
Now make the pattern for your bindings.  For the back, cut out a rectangle that is the length of your back neckline plus an inch or two for shaping, and four times the finished width.  For example, my back neckline is 9 inches long, and my finished binding width is 3/4 of an inch, so my back binding is 10 1/2 inches long and 4 inches wide. For the front binding, you will need two pieces (one for each side of the V), the length should be a little more than the length from the shoulder to the point of the V, and the same width as the back.  Remember that you will be cutting these out on the bias so that they will stretch and conform to the curve of your neckline.

Once you've cut out all of your pieces, you need to prep your bias strips.  You are basically making bias binding.  I find it very helpful to starch my bias strips before folding and pressing.  I think it helps to control the bias so that you don't end up all stretched out of shape.  So, saturate your strip with starch, then fold it in half and press the folded edge to form a crease.  (Wishing I had taken a picture here!)  Unfold, then fold the two raw edges in to meet in the middle.  Crease those edges and then fold it back in half.  It should be looking like double fold bias tape now.
Now you are ready to apply the neckline!  I do this as my first step in construction.  You can do it when you want, but it does need to be done before you sew the shoulder seams.
For the front neckline, you need to form the V from your two strips.  To determine the angle that you need to sew, line one piece of binding up just as it will be sewn to the neckline, then with your straightedge, draw a line on your binding along center front like so...

This is your cutting line.  Now take your other piece of binding and open it out - just the first fold and put the two wrong sides together, like so -

You can see my chalk line on top.  Now fold them back together.  The one with the chalk mark will fold along the crease, the other piece will be folding against the crease.

Now cut along your chalk line -

Unfold and put the two right sides together with the V's matching up.  Sew with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  Be sure to pivot at the corner with your needle in the crease.  Now trim your seam as closely as you can, particularly at the points.  Here's mine with only one side trimmed.

Now press the seams as flat as you can.  I just mash it with the iron.  It's hard to press them open, since you've trimmed them so short.

If you have any threads that hang over the folded edge trim them off.  They'll show.

Here's what it should look like now!  It's ready to be attached to the neckline.  Now for the big secret...  Glue!!

Get your fabric glue or basting tape and glue that baby down where you want it. This way, when you sew it on the layers won't slip and your edgestitching will catch both sides of the binding.

Now edgestitch it down, pivoting with your needle in the seam at the point of the V.  Isn't it pretty?  It looks just as nice on the other side.
For the back, just glue down the binding the same way, and edgestitch it down.  It curves a bit, but your tape has plenty of stretch, so just contour it as you are glueing.  Afterward, it may try to curve in or out.  Just press it down withe the iron and it will lie nice and flat.

Here are the front and back, ready to be sewn together at the side seams.  Now you can finish construction on your top however you like.  Neckline's done!

As pretty inside as it is on the outside!

As a final note, if you want your scrubs to be reversible this is the perfect neckline finish.  All you have to do is add an inside breast pocket and flat fell your seams.  Instant reversible scrub top!

Simplicity 4378 - take 2

I really, really wanted Mitch to be able to wear his scrubs on call last night, and by the expedient of sewing in every single spare minute, I managed it.  Fortunately I had my sewing group, so I was able to finish up the pants without small fry underfoot.  That was great!

Look, he's smiling!  He tried them on for me last night and raved about the fit, the pockets, the neckline - everything.  He loves them!  Whew!  As you can see, we toned down the color a bit, which should help prevent him from being mistaken for the nurse, which actually was a problem with the darker blue.  This pale blue is a much more traditional color for doctors.
I made a few other changes, both to improve fit and the overall look and functionality.  I added a bit to the side seams of the pants.  As I mentioned when I made the last pair, they were a bit snug in the thigh.   I think that this is a combination of Mitch's runner's legs and the fact that this is a "unisex" pattern, which always seems to mean "drafted for women, with men as an afterthought".  This was also a problem in the shoulders.  Mitch has quite broad shoulders in the back (from swimming), but the top fit elsewhere, so I added an ease pleat to the back shoulder.

He likes it.  The fit is much better and he has much better movement.  That took care of the fit issues.  Look and functionality were the next problems to tackle.  Mitch wasn't a fan of the low-cut neckline, but I was afraid if I raised it too much he wouldn't be able to get it over his head.  I decided to sew up a muslin with the neckline where he requested it and see.  I also tested out my ease pleats on the muslin.  What do you know - he was right!  It fits great with the neckline a full inch higher.  I also tossed out those horrible neckline facings in favor of a mitered, bound neckline, which is what you see in higher end RTW scrubs.

Nice, eh?  For a first attempt at mitering an inside corner, I think it came out pretty well!  You can also see the breast pocket, which I divided (by sewing a straight line - he he), to allow for a separate pen/caliper pocket.  Mitch loves that!

Well, I am really happy with how these came out.  Mitch seems to be as well, although the true test will be when he gets home later today, after living in them for 30 hours or so.

Simplicity 4378

We're still not sleeping, so I've been getting grumpier by the day - missing my favorite therapy - so my sweet hubby shuttled me off to the sewing room yesterday, and I go to sew all morning! Turns out, I was working on a second trial of scrubs for him, so we both got something out of the deal. My first attempt at a scrub set for him resulted in scrubs that were too big in the top, too long in the rise and too short. Hmm - not really wearable. He also told me that he prefers a set-in sleeve. Would you believe that I could only find one scrubs pattern that has a set in sleeve!! This is it. Simplicity 4378.

I even checked Kwik Sew, Burda and Ebay/Etsy. This was it.
Anyway, here they are. I made both the top and the pants from the pattern. Tracing Mitch's favorite scrub pants didn't work, since the fabric was so different, it changed the way it felt to him, so I decided to scrap that and start over. These pants had the features that Mitch was looking for, so I gave them a go. We like them! The fit isn't perfect, but he loves the pockets. So did I! The pocket and facings were all one piece, so you just folded it to form the pocket bag. Way cool! The only changes I made were to move the cargo pockets to the rear and added a self-fabric casing. The pattern called for a ribbon, which I thought was weird. They fit fairly well, although I'll add a bit to the width next time, just for comfort. Mitch is a runner, so he likes a little extra room in the thigh. The drawstring, per the pattern is self-fabric with an elastic component. Self-fabric drawstrings don't bear the weight of several pagers and phones well, so I used cotton strapping as usual, but the idea of the elastic was interesting, so I gave it a go. Mitch isn't sure he's sold on the idea, so we'll see how it performs.
From the back, you can see that the top is quite snug across the shoulders.
Up closer - the sleeves are really straining. Good thing I double stitched those seams! The top is going to need some serious reworking. Obviously, I'll be altering the fit in the shoulders. I also really dislike the neckline. It is faced and topstitched, a treatment I have never seen in RTW scrubs. And can we talk about what a pain that was!? I definitely prefer the band, but I may try a mitered binding for the next one, since that is generally what you see in RTW.

Tomorrow Mitch is going to wear them to work for a road test, so we'll see, but I think we are nearly there!

Prototype # 2

Mitch has been in desperate need for new scrubs for some time. The cheap institution he works for issues the doctors three sets of the cheapest scrubs on the planet, and then expects them to last three years. Unsurprisingly, Mitch's are literally falling apart. I've been trying to find a fabric that I'm happy with. It needs to be fairly lightweight, but still sturdy and, most importantly, wrinkle-free. I've tried a couple of different broadcloths, without much success. A few days ago, I ordered some wrinkle-free poplin from here. I got 6 yards, so it ended up being an amazing deal. This stuff is really awesome! It is sturdy and came out of the dryer completely wrinkle free, but still pressed well while sewing. Amazing! I might have to order up some for blouses...

Anyway, here is my first attempt at a scrub top. I used New Look 6857. Now, this isn't a "doctor" scrub top, which would have made it a no-go for me. My patients always thought I was the nurse. Fortunately, Mitch doesn't have that problem, and he wanted all of his pockets on the same side, so I didn't have to make it reversible.

The top isn't perfect. For one thing, it is enormous. Waaaay too much ease in this pattern!! I even sized it down, expecting that, and it is still too big. Also, Mitch prefers a set-in sleeve, rather than a kimono. There is exactly one scrub pattern on the market that fits that description, so we'll be picking that up tomorrow.The pants are a copy of his favorite scrub pants, but with patch pockets on the rear on both sides and front porkchop style pockets. I had intended to do hip slash pockets, but forgot. Next time! They also turned out a little short, so I'll fix that in the next pair.Here is my cute doctor hubby in his new scrubs!And from the back.

They aren't perfect, but they'll do for now. Mitch is wearing them around the house to see how he feels about the fabric. It is a little heavier than most of the scrubs he wears. Will that be a deal-breaker? We'll see...

"Doctor" Scrubs

Scrubs. They seem like the perfect project for the home sewer. There are tons of patterns out there. The material is inexpensive. The patterns are simple. But, if you have ever tried to make scrubs for the doctor or medical student in your life, you've probably realized that there is a lot more to it then that. Did you get that funny look, with the half-hearted thank you, then the scrubs went to the bottom of the dresser, never to be seen again? Or did your loved one say, "Hmm, that's not quite what I was looking for." but couldn't explain why? Well then, you are in the right place. After 4 years of medical school and 3 years of residency, I've worn a LOT of scrubs, so here is how to make some scrubs that your medical professional will love.

The scrubs that are traditionally worn by physicians are very different then those worn by the nursing and ancillary staff. Your doctor, or doctor-in-training, realizes this, and doesn't want to look like a nurse (or the cleaning lady). I actually think that nursing scrubs are a lot nicer than doctor scrubs in many ways, but they're not what you want for this. Commercial pattern companies don't seem to realize this, and the pattern that are available all cater to the nursing staff. However, they can be easily modified. Here's how.

First of all, let's talk fabric. You are looking for a poly/cotton broadcloth. Thin - like a shirting weight, and fully saturated with color (ie, you can't tell the difference from the wrong and right sides of the fabric). They are made of this for a couple of reasons. Doctors tend to wear a lot of layers (scrubs, white coat, surgical gowns, etc), so it gets hot. Thin fabric isn't. Also, on the off chance that your doctor gets a chance to sleep on call, they need to double as PJs, and be fairly wrinkle resistant. And, they're reversible. More on that in a moment.

What color? There are lots of options out there for broadcloth, but for doctors, you really only have two. Blue, which is traditionally worn by the Medical subspecialties (Internal Medicine, Pediatrics, Family Medicine), and green, which is typically worn by the Surgical subspecialites (Surgery and all the specialties thereof, and OB/Gyn).

You might be tempted to get creative with the colors, but if you haven't talked about it with the person who will be wearing them, don't. I always wanted to wear pink scrubs, but as a young woman, it was hard enough to get taken seriously in boring medical blue scrubs.

Now, Reversiblity. Doctor scrubs are fully reversible, but not lined. I'm not sure why this is, but it is really convenient, and it is the way they are, so here we go. They are made reversible by using flat-felled seams, and by hemming and stitching the casing as close to the edge of the fabric as possible, with the raw edge turned under. Of course, you can tell which side is which up close, but not so much from normal conversational distances.They also have "reversible" pockets. Pockets are another important thing to discuss. There must be pockets, as every doctor will tell you. But don't get all crazy, remember - reversible. There should be two pockets on the rear right side of the buttock. So, you put one on the "right" side of the fabric and one on the "wrong" side. Looks like this -
As you can see, the pocket is on the right rear, and there is a visible stitching line from the other pocket that is on the inside. When the scrubs are reversed, it looks exactly the same - pocket on the right, stitching on the left. These are typically the only pockets on the pant, although I understand that cargo style pockets are becoming popular with some physicians. Be sure to ask if you aren't sure. The pockets should have squared off corners, and should be large enough to hold an 8 1/2 x 11 piece of paper folded widthwise (so, 6 x 6 or so).

The waist should be a cased drawstring. The idea material for the drawstring is cotton strapping. It hold a knot much better than polyester (which is slick) and MUCH better than a self-fabric tie. Trust me on this, when you have 6 pagers and phones on your waist and 14 pieces of paper and your PDA in your pocket, you need a drawstring that HOLDS.It also should crossover itself within the casing. So, when you are putting it in, start with the far buttonhole, case all the way around across the buttonhole where you started and out the near side so that the strapping is crossed. This makes it easier to tie, and also helps hold up all those pagers.

So, what pattern do you use? You can, of course, use a tradiational scrub pattern, just be sure to make the changes above. I use Butterick 6837. Yep, it is a pajama pattern, but the pants are PERFECT. There are no side seams, and only one pattern piece. You do have to add a few inches to the top for a casing, as this pattern calls for a separate waistband. I love it, and the scrub pants I made yesterday for Mitch are a big hit.

Finally! I made something that Mitch actually likes!!