[Lantz's Corner] Casting Tutorial Part 2

My Part II Is Equally As Epic

Welcome back. If you haven't already read Part One of my casting tutorial, you're going to be quite lost on this post. So head back and fill yourself with knowledge of rubbery things and come on back. Don't worry, I'll wait for you...Okay, we good? Fantastic. In Part Two we're going to take a look at getting your rubber mold to duplicate all of your little plastic thingies, and hopefully save some time and money in the process. Even more-so with this part of the tutorial, I suggest reading the whole thing before attempting any work as your resin mixes take a lot less time to solidify than the rubber cast. More after the break.

[Adept Zero] Instant Mold Review

Hello, Brethren of the Adeptus MWC. Zeronyne here with a detailed review of Instant Mold, the press molding compound distributed by Cool Mini Or Not.

If you've ever been to my site, you'd know that I cover products and techniques in a relatively unique way - I show my mistakes, no matter how dumb. I'm a firm believer in the philosophy that we learn much more from our mistakes than our successes. Consequently, my reviews are hubris-free. You may avoid the mistakes I made, and I guarantee that alone is worth the reading time.

This review will document my very first experience with the product. Let me say upfront that to me, it was an inarguable success. Is it worth the money and time? Let's see, shall we?

[Lantz's Corner] Casting Tutorial Part 1

Adorable As I Am, This Cute Mug Don't Pay The Bills

Hello again. It's time for me to start pulling my weight around here, so let's get to what I do best; tutorials. This will be a pretty long segment, and so, I'll be splitting it up into two sections so your bottoms don't fall asleep too terribly. These tutorials will cover a step-by-step process of casting resin models and duplicating them for your gaming pleasure. We've all done a conversion we wanted to duplicate without having to put another four and a half damn hours back into it. After starting my purchases of Adeptus Mechanicus models, I found myself more than stuck in this situation. It was finally time to dip my toe in the waters of casting, make the mistakes and learn from them. Now I'm here to show you the mishaps I've made so you can avoid them and get going on your own casts.

GW Paint Charts - Make any color you need with just 5 paints

Hey folks,

I noticed this article the other day on a blog I follow, here. It reminded me of the article and the pictures that used to be posted on the LoTR page. I had saved the pics but simply forgot all about them until now. So....

All you need is these 5 colors and an eye dropper or a stirring stick to take out single drops.

Tutorial Request - March '11

Hey Folks!

Its been a crazy few days and as such Ive had no time for any updates here as to the Sons of Horus or anything else. Now that starting tomorrow I have some more free time (for here as well as answering emails) I figured Id get a post up tonight since its involves feedback.

I'm taking requests on what tutorials you folks want to see. Anything from more basing to GS work to something I cant even think of. So post away with some requests. You can request as many as you'd like. I'm going to use the replies to make a list of tutorials to do.

So, post away!

How to Guide: Ogryn Ripper Guns Tutorial

Hey Folks,

Im here to share a nice easy way to make Ogryn Ripper guns for all the people that have made their Ogryns from Warhammer Fantasy Ogres.

Old Stuff Day! MWC Style - Nurgle Demon Prince

Hey Folks,

As most of you know, today is Old Stuff Day, started by Warhammer 39,999. I have only had this blog since the start of the year but I figured id dig up an old goody from my forum days and post this :)

The Nurgle Demon Prince I made a awhile back had alot of WIP pics showing him as he proressed. I also found some pics of my tools that I use. So watch the beast grow!

Basing Tutorial - 40k Urban

Hey Folks!

This will be the first part in a series of basing tutorials for 40k, fantasy and warmachine. These techniques can be used for any number of game systems as well.This first one will be for an urban 40k style.

Painting Tutorial: Sons of Horus

Hey guys and gals, I've had alot of requests to give a step by step guide to painting the my Sons of Horus marines.

So here goes:

First off, you will need to mix up a pot of Metallic Green. What I did was get 1 pot of Chainmail Metal 1 pot of Scorpion Green and 1 pot of Camo Green. You will also need 2 empty paint pots.

Fill one empty pot half way with Scorpion Green. Then fill the same pot a quarter of the way with Camo Green. This should fill it to about 3/4ths.

Now pour the Chainmail Metal into the other empty pot half way. Now take your mixed green and pour that into the Chainmail Metal pot, filling it the other half. Shake for 10 or so minutes or just stir it for 5 or so and that's it.

You've now got a container full of Metallic Green.

Now that you have your Metallic Green, lets get to painting a marine.


Step 1 - I first undercoated the model with black primer. You can use white as well. I then base coated the marine twice with a light brushing of the Metallic Green. I try to get it all over while not coming out thick and hiding details.



Step 2 - I used Adeptus Battlegrey for all the armor trim, knee pads and weapon casing. Its ok to be sloppy at this stage and get some on the green. It will be touched up later.


Step 3 - I then come in with Dwarf Bronze for all the golds bits such as for the weapons, armor skulls and other things. I try to keep it tidy and not get it on the grey.

Step 4 - After the bronze I use Chainmail Metal for backpack vents, armor joints and metal on the weapons. I also paint the hoses and cables the same.

Step 5 - Once that's done I then come in with Bleached Bone for all the impurity seals, skulls, horns and anything else that should be bone colored.


Step 6 - Blood red is used for the seals on the impurity seals, krak grenades and for weapon and some helmet lenses.

Step 7 - I then follow that up with Camo Green used for any frag grenades and then a mix of Scorching Brown and Bleached Bone for the pouches. Bestial Brown would also work.


Step 8 - After all that is when I finally base coat the helmet the color it needs to be.

Step 9 - Skin and anything else is then painted. For skin I use Elf Flesh then continue on the steps below.


Step 10 - Before the first wash, I come in with the Metallic green we made earlier and touch up any and all mistakes that went onto the armor.


Step 11 - A medium wash of Devlan Mud over the entire model. Pooling is ok on the green.

Step 12 - Once the wash is dry, I then begin highlighting the green armor. I do 2 layers of the Metallic Green over all the raised areas like a normal highlight. Avoid mistakes.

Step 13 - Once that's done, I come in again with Dwarf Bronze and Highlight the gold. Then once that's dry and do a fine edge highlight with Shining Gold.

Step 14 - I then highlight all the impurity seals and boned parts with a fine single highlight of Bleached Bone.

Step 15 - I follow that with a light highlight with Chainmail Metal over all the metal parts.

Step 16 - Finally I use a fine detail brush and "ink line" anything the wash failed to get with Devlan Mud.





And that's it! You've now painted yourself a Sons of Horus.

Basing Tutorial - Part 1

So the first tutorial will be on basing. I figure the best way to start would be to list the options for basing.

1) Basic sand, flock, or any other premade material requiring no additoonal work at all. Very simple, great for mass infantry armies where the eyes are drawn to the models themselves, not the bases.

2) Custom basing such as step 1 but with additional bits of rubble, stones, fake grass as well as being painted.

3) Choosing to buy premade resin bases from any number of places. Personally, when i go this route, I choose Dragon Forge Basing. Great sets, made so models can actually stand on them properly as well as easy to convert and change up.

Since options 1 and 2 are straight forward, ill move right to option 3. Pictured above are one of the wide based bike sets from Dragon Forge. The urban rubble set to be exact. They havent been converted past the addition of some grass for some color. The base on the land speeder was also from the same series but had alot of additonal things added, such as barb wire, a corpse, stones, the wall from a CoD set that the speeder is pinned to and a few other small things. On these bike bases I didnt add much because the bikes themselves will cover most of the detail.

For painting I wanted something other then red for the bricks so I went with an off yellow sand stone style color. I painted the tubble itself codex grey, then built up a few highlights to almost a white, I then washed it with devlan mud wash followed by a light dry brushing of fortress grey. I then went over it all with a bit of MIG pigments, specifically, "Industrail Dirt" mixed with a TINY bit of dark rust.

Finished them up with the skulls , bricks, stones and bullet casings getting a fresh coat to help them stand out better.

If anyone has any questions feel free to ask, such as if someone does want to see examples of options 1 and 2.

(the bikes themselves are done but I need riders so yea lol..)