Three Dimensional Baccarat Version 2

Many of you reading this may already be familiar with the original version of
3-D Bac. It is a fine flat betting system that actually gives the player an
overall edge over the casino. As good as it is, in my opinion version 2 is
much better and yields an even better risk to return on investment ratio than
the original 3-D Bac. In fact, everything considered, I have to say that this is
the finest gambling system that I am currently aware of (and I’ve seen
hundreds).

Unlike the original 3-D Bac, this is not a flat bet system. But it is not strictly
a progression in the normal sense either. Betting is very controlled and tops
out at a maximum of 5 units (except in very rare circumstances) while using a
minimum bet of 1 unit.

I’m not going to spend time here explaining the rules of baccarat. If you
don’t already have an understanding of the game, email me and I’ll send you
a copy of the rules along with a short explanation.

So, let’s get right to the system.

The Progression

The progression is divided into groups of 3. It goes 1-2-3, 2-3-4, 3-4-6, 4-6-
8, 5-7-9. I seriously doubt that you will ever go any further than this, but if
you should, the last series would be 6-8-10. You begin by betting 1 unit on
the side that won the last decision. If that side wins, the next bet is 2 units, if
it wins again, then go to 3 units. If that side wins 3 in a row, you have
completed the first set of 3 so you go to the next set which would be 2-3-4.
You never go to the next set until a side has won 3 bets in a row completing
the current set. If at any time during the set a side loses a bet, you go back
to the first bet in that set. For instance, if a side is just starting with the first
set (1-2-3) and the first 2 bets (1 and 2) are won, but the 3 unit bet is lost,
then you go back to a 1 unit bet on that side. Likewise, if a side has won the
first 3 bets and is now on the 2nd set of 2-3-4, and it wins the 2 bet but loses

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the 3 bet, the next bet will be 2 again because you must go back to the first
bet in that set.

Now, if a side loses 2 bets in a row at any time, then betting on that side
ceases until there is an indicator to resume betting in that column. When this
happens, bets start at the beginning of the first set with a bet of 1 unit and the
progression continues as usual.

So, to summarize so far, a side must win 3 decisions in a row to progress to

the next set. If at anytime during a set one decision is lost, then that side
must revert back to the first bet in that set (obviously if you should lose the
1st bet in a set, then you repeat the first bet in that set). If 2 decisions in a
row are lost, then betting ceases on that side until there is an indicator for
betting to resume, then betting begins again with 1 unit and progresses
through the first set as usual. Below is an example. Note: Winning side is
shaded in green.
Streak
B P

1
2
3
1 1 No bet here because both sides are equal.
2
3
2
3
1 2
1 3
2 2
3
4

Fig. 1

2
I think you get the idea.

What you see above is an example of one of the columns we will be using
and as you can see, it is labeled “Streak”. Figure 1 is not only an illustration
of how the progression works, but it is a good illustration of how the
“Streak” column works. Note that when one side wins, you begin playing the
progression at the base level of 1 unit and continue the progression until that
side loses 2 in a row. So the indicator to begin the progression on the Streak
chart is when a column (either Bank or Player) wins a bet. Then the
progression continues independently in each column regardless of what is
happening in the other column. As you can see in Figure 1, the progression
started on the Bank side as soon as Bank won the first decision of the shoe
and it continued until Bank lost 2 decisions in a row. Then, the progression
began anew on Bank on the 10th decision after Bank won the 9th. The
progression began on Player on the 5th decision after Player won the 4th
decision. The progression continued on Player throughout the remainder of
the example because Player did not lose 2 in a row. Had that happened, then
the Player progression would have ceased and only resumed after the next
Player win when a new progression would have commenced with a bet of 1
unit (1st bet of 1st series).

Chop Column

The other column we track is what I refer to as the “Chop Column” or

“Chop Chart”. We begin the progression in this chart when the shoe
manifests a choppy situation by producing a series of 1 single decision on
one side and a single decision on the other or a series of 2 such as 2 Banks
or 2 Players. In other words, as soon as you see a single Bank followed by a
Player, then that would be an indicator to start a chop series. Or, if you see 2
Players isolated on one side apart from any series of Banks or 2 Banks
isolated on the Bank side regardless of what has been happening on the
Player side, you begin the progression in the Chop column. Again we will
use the decisions in Figure 1 as an example, but we will score them for the
Chop Chart.

See Figure 2 at the top of the next page.

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Chop
B P
The shoe started out with a Banker streak so we don’t begin a series
on the Chop Chart until Banker loses. Note that it takes at least 2
decisions to determine where the progression begins on the Chop
Chart. At this point we now have 2 isolated Players so we place our
1 1 unit bet opposite the last Player (bet on Bank) because we are
assuming that the shoe will now go to Bank for 2 decisions. At this
point, that would appear to be the pattern. Now look what happens
Fig. 2
after the next decision.
Chop
B P

So we see the next decision did not go to Banker as we assumed,

but was another Player. We will continue to play the Chop
progression until we lose 2 in a row. Since it did not chop to Bank
1 on that decision, if it is going to chop at all, it must do it on this
1 decision, so we place another 1 unit bet on Bank. Now look at
Figure 4.
Fig. 3

4
 Chop
B P

The next 2 decisions continued to be Player and since we have

1 now lost 2 in a row on the Chop Chart progression, we quit betting
until we see another chop indicator.
1
The next chop indicator appears here with a single Bank followed
by a single Player. We assume that the shoe will continue to chop
and produce single decisions, so we bet opposite the last Player
1
decision and begin a new progression with a 1 unit bet on Bank.
Fig. 4 Look at Figure 5 to see the next results.
Chop
B P

1
1

Note that the shoe followed the pattern of single chops here and
we now place the 2nd bet in the first series (which is 2 units) since
1 Chop won the first bet. To see how the remainder of the
2 example plays out, see Figure 6 on the following page.

Fig. 5

5
Chop
B P

1
1

See how the shoe continued the single chop pattern which caused
1 the Chop Chart to win the 2 unit bet so a 3 unit bet was placed
2 opposite that assuming the single chop pattern would continue.
3 But Player won the next bet which formed another pattern of 2.
1 Consequently the 3 unit bet lost but a 1 unit bet was placed
beneath it because at that point we now had to change and assume
Fig. 6 that a series of 2 Banks was going to follow because we now have
an indicator for a series of 2. When Player won for the 3rd time in
a row, this ended the chop progression until another chop indicator
manifests.

An important note here: Any time a chop series ends you must wait at least 2
decisions before beginning another chop series. This is true even if the series
ends because of a chop, which occurs occasionally. Also, realize that you
may start out playing a chop series of 2, but it can immediately turn into a
single chop series or vice versa as in the last part of Figure 6. You always
look back 2 bets and it will tell you where to make the next chop bet. There
is a rare exception to this, but it is explained thoroughly in the example shoes.

Well, now you should understand how the Chop Chart is scored. So now
let’s put the two charts together to begin to get some idea of how we
determine our bets.

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Figure 7 shows the Streak Chart and the Chop Chart side by side. Before
going on, however, go back and study both the Streak Chart and the Chop
Charts above individually and make certain you understand how we score
each chart. It is important to get that down pat at this point in order to avoid
confusion as we get deeper into the mechanics of the system.

Streak Chop
Here is how we combine the charts.
B P B P

1 Start with a 1 unit bet on Bank.

This is a 2 unit bet on Bank.
2
3 Next comes a 3 unit bet on Bank.
This is a No Bet situation.
1 1
2 1 Here we combine 2 Players and 1 Bank and we get a 1 unit bet on Player.
Combine 3 Players and 1 Bank to get a 2 unit bet on Player.
3 1
This is a 2 unit bet on Player.
2 This is a 3 unit bet on Player.
3
This is a 1 unit bet on Player.
1 2 Combine 3 Players and 2 Banks for a 1 unit bet on Player.
1 3 1
This makes a 2 unit bet on Player.
2 2 2 This is a 1 unit bet on Bank.
1 3 3
Finally a 3 unit bet on Player.
4 1

Fig. 7
OK, so we see how we combine the numbers in the
progressions from both charts to arrive at our potential bet (or Indicated
Bet). I say potential bet, because we don’t always make the indicated bet, in
fact a majority of the time we bet the exact opposite of the indicated bet.

Now look at Figure 8. This is a combined chart of what we’ve learned so

far. It shows the indicated bet (IND. BET) along with the actual bet (ACT.
BET) that would be placed if these 2 charts were the only factors we
considered in deciding our bets. But there is one other addition to the chart
that will ultimately determine where we place our bets. But we won’t worry

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about that now. Right now, just make sure you understand where we are at
this point.

Streak Chop
B P B P IND. BET ACT.
BET

1 B1 P1
2 B2 P2
3 B3 P3
1 1 NB NB
2 1 P1 B1
3 1 P2 B2
2 P2 B2
3 P3 B3
1 2 P1 B1
1 3 1 P1 B1
2 2 2 P2 B2
3 3 NB NB
4 1 P3 B3

Figure 8 Now there is one final

column that we are
going to track which influences where our bet is to be placed.

Opposite Column

In what I have designated as the “Opposite Column”, we are going to track

the success of our bets which are opposite of the Indicated Bet. To do this,
we use the same progression that we use in the Streak Chart and in the Chop
Chart (1-2-3, 2-3-4 etc.). We begin the progression when the bet which is
opposite of the Indicated Bet wins. And the progression continues as long
as the opposite bets are winning and only ends when the Indicated Bet wins

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twice in a row. Then the Opposite Chart resets and begins again at a 1 unit
bet as soon as an opposite bet wins. The Opposite Chart functions exactly
like the Streak Chart with one exception. If the Indicated Bet is a “No Bet”
(Banker and Player has an even amount), then that is counted as a loss for the
Opposite Chart. That is, it is a loss as far as the progression is concerned.
However, the progression in the Opposite Chart does not actually end until
the Indicated Bet has won twice in a row. An example should make it
clearer. Look at Figure 9.
Streak Chop
On the 4th decision is the first
B P B P IND. OP
time the opposite of the
BET P. Indicated Bet won. The
progression begins after that.
1 P1 But the first bet in the
2 P2 progression is a No Bet. This is
3 P3 a loss as far as the progression
1 1 NB 1X is concerned, but it is not
2 1 B1 1 considered a loss as far as
3 1 B2 1 determining when to stop
playing the Opposite Column.
2 B2
The Indicated Bet must win
2 1 B1 1 twice in a row before we stop
2 1 P1 2 playing the Opposite Column.
1 1 2 B2 3 Note that after the 7th decision,
2 3 P1 1 the Indicated Bet had won 2
3 1 B2 2 times in a row so we quit
2 B2 1 playing the Opposite Column
until after the next decision
2 1 B1 2
because the bet opposite from
3 1 1 B1 1 the indicated bet won. At that
2 2 2 B2 2 point the progression continued
3 1 P2 3 in the Opposite Column.

Figure 9 Now, exactly what do we use

the Opposite Column for?
Good question.

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As long as the Indicated Bet is the same as or
greater than the total in the Opposite
Column, the actual bet you place will be
opposite of the Indicated Bet. However, if
the Indicated Bet is less than the total in the
Opposite Column, the bet you actually place
will be the same as the Indicated Bet. It’s as
simple as that, and that is all there is to it. Read that paragraph over again
until you are sure you understand it.

Figure 10 below shows the same shoe as in Figure 9, but with the Indicated
Bet, the Actual Bet, and the running won/lost total for the shoe.

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 Streak Chop

B P B P IND. ACT. OPP. TO

BET BET T

1 P1 B1 -1
2 P2 B2 -3
3 P3 B3 0
1 1 NB NB 1X 0
2 1 B1 P1 1 -1
3 1 B2 P2 1 -3
2 B2 P2 -1
2 1 B1 P1 1 0
<The Indicated
2 1 P1 P1 2 -1 Bet and the
1 1 2 B2 B2 3 1 Actual Bet was
the same on these
2 3 P1 B1 1 2
2 decisions
3 1 B2 P2 2 0 because the
2 B2 P2 1 2 Indicated Bet
was less than the
2 1 B1 B1 2 3 Opposite Column
3 1 1 B1 P1 1 4 total. That also
2 2 2 B2 P2 2 6 applies to the last
play in Figure 10.
3 1 P2 P2 3 8 Well, that
puts it all
Figure 10 together and
that is how the bets are decided. Personally, I don’t use 2 columns for the
Indicated Bet and the Actual Bet. I simply record the Indicated Bet and then
I remember to just bet opposite it unless the Opposite Column total is greater
than the Indicated Bet. It is really fairly simple after you play a few shoes.

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One final thing to remember about the Opposite Column. If the Opposite
Column wins at the 4 bet (the 3rd bet of the 2nd series), instead of going on to
the next series of 3-4-6, you reset to 1 (the first bet in the first series) and
continue from there. So the series in the Opposite Column goes 1-2-3, 2-3-4,
1-2-3.

Why The System Works So Well

When playing baccarat, many players look for and pray for long runs such as
8 Bankers in a row or 10 single chops in a row or 6 sets of two’s, etc. And
that is fine because most shoes will contain at least one or two good runs.
The original 3-D Bac system was designed to pick up on and capitalize on
runs. And it is a winner. However, there is one thing for sure about all runs
and that is that they are going to end sooner or later. And when a streak run
or a chop run ends, it means you are going to lose at least 2 units in the
process. And besides, long runs are the exception and not the rule. The
natural state of a baccarat shoe is choppy or random. It will normally consist
of varied series such as a series of 2, then a series of 3 or 4, then perhaps 2
or 3 singles in a row. You see what I mean. One of the properties of
random numbers is that they tend to produce random patterns and series.
This system is designed to take full advantage of the random patterns and the
fact that more often than not, patterns will not sustain for a long period of
time. Of course, you do run into shoes that will produce one run after
another through out the whole shoe and you never have a chance to catch up.
These shoes will beat this system, but fortunately they are pretty rare.
Though most all shoes do produce some runs here and there, as I stated
earlier, most of the shoe will be fairly random with varied patterns and this is
what will give us an opportunity to win 85% of our shoes if we play
conservatively.

Rules and Guidelines

There really aren’t many rules to remember. The main rule is that if you have
a draw down of 10 units or more due to a long run, then quit betting until the
column that is having the run loses 2 times. They don’t have to be back to
back losses. They can be separated by 1 or more wins, but after the 2nd loss

12
you resume play. From that point, if per chance you suffer another 10 unit
draw down and you still haven’t lost your 20 unit buy in, then cease play
once again and wait for the column that is having the run to lose twice more
then continue play. Remember, we don’t resume play until the streaking
column loses two times, they don’t have to be two losses in a row, but they
can be.

Figure the 10 unit draw down not from the highest point in the shoe, but from
your score when the run began, that would be the first bet in the first series of
the run or the 1 unit bet. Study the examples for clarification.

We always quit the shoe if we lose 20 units. 20 units is our buy in for
each shoe. However, if you are down say -18 units and the next bet called
for is a 4 unit bet, it is up to you whether you make the bet or not. Take into
account the situation in the shoe and what you think your likelihood of
winning the bet is, also take into account your overall won/loss situation for
the session. But if you should make the bet and lose it, you definitely quit
there.

As far as instructions on when to quit, the shoe will normally tell you that. Of
course not every shoe holds to definite patterns or tendencies, but the
majority of shoes seem to. A shoe that puts a significant hurt on you by
throwing a long streak or chop series at you will probably do it again sooner
or later. For some reason (and I think there are mathematical reasons for it)
streaky shoes tend to continue to be streaky. Seldom does a shoe just have
one long run. If you get one, you are likely to get at least one more and
perhaps 2, 3, or 4 more.

But here are the factors I look for when deciding when to quit playing a shoe.
If I don’t run into any significant problems like having to quit playing because
of a long run resulting in a 10 unit draw down during the run, I continue to
play all the way to the end of the shoe. In other words, as long as your win
total continues to steadily increase with only minor fluctuations of 2 or 3,
maybe 4 units, then just keep playing. However, if I have run into trouble and
lost 6 to 8 units or more, then I begin to look to get out of the shoe when I

13
get back to my high point for that shoe or at least within a unit or 2 of that
high point.

Also, if I keep coming back to the same high point and keep getting knocked
back down, then I will quit the shoe when I reach that point for the 3rd or 4th
time. For example, if my win total reaches +10, then I get knocked back
down to +5, but I get back up to +11, then get knocked back down to +4,
the next time I get to +9 or better, I’m most likely going to quit the shoe.
Depending upon how things are going, I might have one more try at getting
over the hump, but if the fluctuation is as great as what I’ve described, I’m
pretty sure I would quit at that point.

It is really all about getting a feel for the shoe. As you gain experience, you
will start to smell trouble, but you will also have a pretty good idea when you
can press on for the big win. This is why I encourage you to practice for at
least 30 shoes or more before playing live. This will give you time to see
how the system reacts and to get a feel for its interaction with the average
baccarat shoes.

Any time I’ve had to stop play because of a 10 unit draw down due to a long
run, I begin looking to get out of the shoe. At first I try to get out with a +4
or +5 unit profit, but if I continue to struggle I’ll take what I can get even if it
is a small loss of -2 or -3 units. That can be easily made up on the next shoe.

One thing to watch for: if you are playing a shoe that only returns to a high
point once then takes a serious nose dive, get out of that shoe with a profit
before it goes into a negative total. For some reason, shoes like that will
usually go south on you and never come back so take what you can get while
you can get it. For example, I was recently playing a live shoe at one of the
local casinos. I was up 13 units and had experienced few problems, only
one minor 3 or 4 unit draw down. But suddenly the shoe hit a skid and I had
to quit play because of a 10 unit draw down. But the shoe had been going so
well that I resumed play after the streaking column had two losses. But the
shoe just got worse and I wound up losing 18 units. I could have quit with a
3 unit profit instead of an 18 unit loss. It took 2 shoes and part of another to

14
get that 18 units back whereas I could have been ahead all the way and would
have eventually won about 31 units for the session. So don’t be greedy.

It seems to be a tendency for a shoe that only hits a peak twice and then
takes a nose dive to never recover, I’ve seen it several times. Once again,
there is probably a mathematical reason for it. But the majority of shoes will
give you at least 3 chances and often 4 or more to quit at or near a certain
peak or high point before they take a nose dive and wind up at a considerably
lower total.

One great thing about this system is that it does give the player an advantage
over the casino. And often over long stretches of play in my testing I found
there to be little difference in the results when quitting the shoe early and
playing all the way through to the end. However, occasionally you will hit an
extended run when all the rough shoes seem to group up together. This can
cause some serious bankroll fluctuations (and require a much larger lifetime
bankroll) not to mention aggravation and discouragement to the player. For
this reason, you should always try to quit the shoe at the optimum time. You
may not always succeed, but the more you practice and get a feel for the
system and how it interacts with the shoe, the better you will become at
discerning this point.

Remember, don’t get greedy. If you are struggling in a shoe and just can’t
seem to get anything going, better to take a small loss than to continue
fighting it and wind up getting beat badly. A small loss of 3 to 5 units can be
made up in the next shoe, but to recuperate from a big loss may take 2 or 3
shoes.

Bankroll Requirements

As I’ve stated earlier, your buy in for a shoe is basically 20 units. On a rare
occasion you might take a loss slightly in excess of that, but as a general rule
that is all we want to risk on any one shoe. Therefore, playing
conservatively, I don’t think you will ever need more than 100 to 120 units of

15
lifetime bankroll. So far, I’ve never experienced a draw down that large, but
this is gambling and anything is possible. Better safe than sorry. And if
playing professionally, I would recommend having your bankroll built up to
150 units before increasing your bet size.

Final Comments

Since this system was first released, there have been some questions about
when to begin recording the progression on the Chop Chart. I’m referring to
the beginning of a new shoe.

When beginning a new shoe, the first decision of that shoe cannot be
considered when looking for an indicator to begin the progression on the
Chop Chart. The reason is that you don’t know what came before it. You
have no frame of reference at this point. It takes at least two decisions two
decisions to have a chop indicator and since nothing came before the first
decision of the shoe, you don’t have a clear 2 decision reference point.
Look at it this way. Hypothetically (not literally) view each new shoe as just a
continuation of the shoe before it. You just happened to get there and begin
play at that point. You don’t know if the decision before the first decision
was the same as the first decision or the opposite. And in order to
immediately begin playing the progression on the Chop Chart, you would
have to know that. So, you see, it takes at least 3 decisions before you can
know whether to begin the progression on the Chop Chart.

Figure 11 here shows how NOT to do it.

Streak Chop

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 B P B P IND. ACT. OPP TO
BET BET . T.

1 B1 P1 1 This is not an
indication of a
1 1 1 B1 P1 1
single chop series at
the beginning of a
Figure 11 shoe.
Figure 12 below shows the correct place to begin logging the progression on
the Chop Chart.

Streak Chop

B P B P IND. ACT. OPP TO

BET BET . T.

1 B1 P1 1
1 1 NB NB 1X
2 1 1 NB NB 1X

Figure 12
Figure 13 shows another error that some have made. It is really the same
error, but this time with the chop series of 2.
Streak Chop

B P B P IND. ACT. OPP TO

BET BET . T.

1 P1 B1 -1
2 1 P1 B1

Figure 13

17
 Streak Chop

B P B P IND. ACT. OPP TO

BET BET . T.
This is the correct
1 P1 B1 1 way to chart the
1 1 NB NB 1X beginning of a
2 1 B1 P1 1 series of 2 on the
Chop Chart at the
start of a shoe.
Figure 14

Another thing I want to quickly discuss is that unique situation where you are
sometimes called upon to make a 5 unit bet as a result of back to back 3 in a
rows (3 Players followed by 3 Banks or vice versa). There are examples of
this bet being made in some of the example shoes, but there are also
examples of it being treated like a regular chop series of 2. Figure 15 shows
the series in its most common manifestation.

Streak Chop

B P B P

1
2 1
3 1
1 1 2 When played this way, this situation would indicate a
5 unit Indicated Bet on Player and a 5 unit Actual Bet
2 3
on Bank. Further research and analysis on this
particular situation reveals some logical results that
Figure 15 one might expect if you stop and think about it. In
shoes which you are winning fairly easily and are up 10 to 12 units or more
before the half way point in the shoe, you tend to win a few more of these
bets than you lose, that is when you make the full 5 unit bet. That is logical

18
because if you are winning easily, then the shoe is following a more random
pattern and would tend not to repeat another 3 in a row. However, in shoes
in which you are losing or are winning by a small total, you will tend to lose
more of these bets than you win. That is also reasonable because the reason
you would be losing or struggling is because the shoe is tending to follow
definite patterns more often than not. So you are more likely to get a series
of 3 following a series of 3, because that would be the pattern.

So, based upon this analysis, you have two choices. If you are doing well in
the shoe and are up by a good margin and want to play aggressively, you can
go ahead and make the 5 unit bet which would be called for. However, if
you are losing, or are not up by much, then it would be much wiser to play
the series as a chop series of 2 as indicated in Figure 16. Or you can just
decide to always play it as a chop series of 2 and forget about ever making a
big bet as a result of back to back 3 in a rows. Actually, always playing it as
a chop series of 2 does seem to maintain the symmetry of the system a little
better.

Streak Chop

B P B P

1
2 1
3 1
1 1 2
<This would play as an Indicated Bet of Bank-1. Of
2 3
course the Actual Bet would depend upon the total of
the Opposite Chart.
Figure 16

I’ve included some Excel spreadsheets with example shoes. If you don’t
have Microsoft Excel software you can download the Excel Viewer for free
at:

19
http://www.microsoft.com/office/000/viewers.htm

This will allow you to view the spreadsheet files.

As I’ve previously stressed, play at least 30 practice shoes before attempting

to play this system live and even more than that if you aren’t able to update
your charts and make your bet selection within 15 to 20 seconds or so.

Avoid greed and use good self discipline and you will do well. Concentrate
on playing one shoe at a time. If you lose a shoe, forget about it and don’t
try to make it up on the next shoe. Play each shoe individually and take what
it gives and the winnings will mount up. Just tackle one shoe at a time.

Don’t try to play more than 5 or 6 shoes in a session and don’t play more
than 2 shoes without taking a break. This system does take a lot of
concentration so don’t play when you are tired and certainly don’t drink
while you play.

I believe this is one of the best gambling systems to ever come along, so
keep it to yourself and don’t go around bragging about how well you are
doing. Keep a low profile. Don’t give the casinos any reason to give you
heat or perhaps stop you from playing all together. Keep your score cards
or notebooks to yourself as much as possible and avoid prying eyes
(especially those of pit bosses and floor personnel). If someone is curious
and asks you specific questions about the system, just pass it off and
downplay it as best you can. Never divulge any specifics or let on that the
system is any good, and don’t even give the name of the system.

As far as score keeping is concerned, you can use the scorecards provided
by the casinos if you want. That will definitely draw less attention. However,
because it aids in accuracy of play and makes it easier for me to see the big
picture of the shoe, and I don’t have to shuffle through several cards, I do
use a wirebound notebook of graph paper. The pages are regular 8” by 10
1/2”, and the brand name is Norcom. I like using the notebook because I
have a permanent record of all my shoes right there together. Or perhaps

20
you would prefer to make your own forms. I will also include a picture of
one of my game sheets so you can see how I do it.

Finally, don’t ever play with money you can’t afford to lose. Even though
this is currently the best gambling system I am aware of, and I honestly
believe if you adhere to the bankroll requirements I’ve laid out, you should be
very successful, it is gambling and no one can ever make any iron clad
guarantees and I’m certainly not going to either.

I wish all of you good luck and God’s blessings.

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