JoJo’s Bizarre Adventure

Noriaki Kakyoin
Crochet Doll Tutorial

By Hooked on a Good Yarn

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 What You Will Need:
Yarn
- I Love This Yarn Cream
- Red Heart Hunter Green
- Red Heart Coral
- Red Heart Coffee
- Patons Grace Cardinal
- Patons Grace Night

Crochet Hooks
- F/5-3.75MM
- USD3/3.25MM
- 1/2.75MM

Tapestry/Yarn Needle

10mm Safety Eyes

Scribbles 3D Gold Fabric Paint

Polyester Fiberfill

Feel free to use whatever yarn brand works for you!

These are just the ones I had on hand when I made my doll.

Disclaimer: This is more of a rough guide than a traditional pattern because the main pattern I use is based off of the Pocket Loki
pattern found at the Tumblr: Over the Bifrost. Since this pattern is not mine, I do not replicate the instructions for it here. I just
provide my alterations to that pattern in order to make my Kakyoin doll. Therefore this guide is meant for fun and not commercial
use. Please do not sell any part of this tutorial/pattern or any dolls made from it. Thank you.

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 Abbreviation Key
SC = Single Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
DC = Double Crochet
sl st = Slip Stitch
ch = Chain

Instructions
Unless otherwise instructed, use your F/5-3.75MM size hook.

Step 1: Head
Follow the head section of the Pocket Loki Pattern at Over the Bifrost’s Tumblr using the Cream yarn.

Step 2: Body
Follow the body section of the Pocket Loki Pattern at Over the Bifrost’s Tumble using the Hunter Green yarn.

Step 3: Legs
Follow the leg pattern of the Pocket Loki Pattern at Over the Bifrost’s Tumblr. Start with the Coffee yarn for
the first 3 rows. Switch to Hunter Green before beginning row 4. Continue with Hunter Green until the end.

Step 4: Arms
Follow the arm pattern of the Pocket Loki Pattern at Over the Bifrost’s Tumblr. Start with the Cream yarn.
Switch to Hunter Green before starting row 3. Continue with Hunter Green until the end.

Step 5: Assemble the Doll

Stuff head, body, legs, and arms with polyester fiberfill or similar material. Add safety eyes to head. Sew all
parts together with your tapestry/yarn needle.

*Tip: I make sure head and body are stuffed pretty full. For the legs, I stuff just the round parts near
what would be the feet. For the arms, Over the Bifrost’s pattern doesn’t call for stuffing them, but I
like to put just a tiny bit of fiberfill in both. Feel free to do what works for you!

**Tip: I like to stuff the head first and place the safety eyes, moving them around until I get a sense
of where they should go. Once I’m satisfied, I remove the stuffing, put the backs onto the safety eyes,
and then put the stuffing back in.

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Step 6: Collar
Here’s where I begin to deviate from Over the Bifrost’s pattern. Kakyoin wears a school uniform with a dis-
tinct collar. Here is the small pattern I use:

1. Using your USD3/3.25MM size hook, make a row of chains with Hunter Green yarn. I did about 20 or so,
wrapping it around the dolls neck until I was satisfied with the length. Ch 1 more, turn.
2. SC along your chains until the end.
3. Pin collar to doll and sew into place with Hunter Green yarn.

*Tip: You want to make this collar kind of tight (which is why I use a smaller hook here), but not too
tight to create the illusion of Kakyoin’s school uniform collar. The two ends of the collar should meet
nicely in the middle, right under where the doll’s chin would be. See picture below.

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Step 7: Coat Tails
Kakyoin’s school uniform jacket is pretty long. In order to create that on the doll, I make a sort of rectangle
piece using single crochets. It looks like I initially did 5 rows, but feel free to adjust to the length you desire.
1. Ch about 30 with Hunter Green yarn, ch 1, turn.
2. SC 30, ch 1, turn.
3. SC 30, ch 1, turn.
4. SC 30, ch 1, turn.
5. SC 30, ch 1, turn.
6. SC 30. Leave long tail to sew onto doll.

*Tip: Similar to the collar, you’ll be having this piece meet somewhere in the middle of the doll’s
body in order to create the illusion that Kakyoin’s coat is opening at the bottom. I usually pin this
rectangle right under his arms, and sew into place with the long tail. It will kind of look like you’re
putting a skirt on the doll. But once sewn into place, the piece definitely looks more like a continuous
of his jacket with the part in the middle. See picture below.

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Step 8: Hair
Here’s the trickiest part of the doll, and the one that took me the longest to try and figure out. Because the
doll doesn’t really have any distinguishing facial features, the hair is what really makes the doll look like the
character. I have broken this step up into parts:
Part 1: Make a skull cap.
Using the Coral yarn, begin following the head pattern from the first step. Go to about row 6 or 7. Fasten off.
Sew cap to doll’s head using the long tail you left after fastening off. I usually try the cap on the doll’s head a
couple of times before fastening off and sewing it on with yarn tail. You want it to sit low on the back of the
neck with the other side of the cap giving enough space above the eyes for a proper forehead.
Part 2: Make all the pieces!
Kakyoin’s hair is made up of a bunch of little triangles and wedges that I make and then pin to the head and
sew into place. Here are the pieces I make with the Coral yarn:
- 10 Medium triangles
- 6 Large triangles
- 5 Wedges for bangs (2 on the left, 3 on the right)
- 2 Wedges for center bangs
- 6 Wedges for that “mullet” look at the back of his hair
- 1 Noodle
Medium Triangle Pattern
(Make 10)
1. Ch 5, turn.
2. SC down the 5 chains. Do not add an extra chain before turn. You want to end up with 4 SC. Turn.
3. SC down the 4. You will end up with 3. Turn.
4. SC down the 3. You will end up with 2. Turn.
5. SC down the 2. You will end up with 1. Weave in ends or tie off, whichever works best for you.

Large Triangle Pattern

(Make 6)
1. Ch 7, turn.
2. SC down the 7 chains. Do not add an extra chain before turn. You want to end up with 6 SC. Turn.
3. SC down the 6. You will end with 5. Turn.
4. SC down the 5. You will end with 4. Turn.
5. SC down the 4. You will end with 3. Turn.
6. SC down the 3. You will end with 2. Turn.
7. SC down the 2. You will end with 1. Weave in ends or tie off, whichever works best for you.

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Step 8: Hair (continued)

Pin all your triangles to the doll’s head. How I pin them:
1. Pin 4 medium triangles on the right, 4 on the left. Evenly spaced so they mirror each other on either side.
2. Pin the 6 large triangles behind the mediums, 3 on the right, 3 on the left. You want these pinned with 2
large overlapping the remaining large triangle. Evenly space these for mirror effect.
3. Pin your last medium triangles low on the dolls head, in line with the 3 large ones and behind the first lay-
er of medium triangles. See pictures above.

*Tip: Use your skull cap as a guide. These triangles are going to follow the natural curve of the cap
and the doll’s head.

**Tip: Make sure to overlap these triangles a bit, instead of having them directly side by side.
Overlapping will create a better cohesive and natural look when you sew them in place.

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Step 8: Hair (continued)

Bang Wedges for Right and Left Side of Head

• Right Bangs (Make 3 of Varying Sizes)
- First Bang: Ch 10, ch 1 more, turn, sl st 4, SC 4, HDC 2. Fasten off.
- Second Bang: Ch 8, ch 1 more, turn, sl st 4, SC 3, HDC 1. Fasten off
- Third Bang: Ch 6, ch 1 more, turn, sl st 3, SC 2, HDC 1. Fasten off.

• Left Bangs (Make 2 of Varying Sizes)

- First Bang: Ch 10, ch 1 more, turn, sl st 4, SC 4, HDC 2. Fasten off.
- Second Bang: Ch 8, ch 1 more, turn, sl st 4, SC 3, HDC 1. Fasten off.

Pin to head. I have 2 on left, under the noodle, and 3 on the right. For the right side, the smallest is closest to
the hair line, then the medium sized bang, then the largest is farthest from the hair line. Overlap these a bit.
For the left side, the smaller bang is closer to the eyes, with the larger bang closer to the hair line.

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Step 8: Hair (continued)

Bang Wedges for Center of Head

(Make 2)
Ch 10, ch 1 more, turn, sl st 4, SC 4, HDC 2. Fasten off.
*Tip: I bend these bangs slightly before pinning to the head. They make a sort of “M” shape when
you’re looking at the doll’s forehead straight on. See picture below.

“M” Shape.

Mullet Wedges for Back of Head

(Make 6)
Ch 7, ch 1 more, turn, sl st 5, SC 2. Fasten off.
Pin these wedges to the back of the head, right at the base of the neck. Evenly distribute these. I did not
overlap these. This will create that sort of “mullet” look Kakyoin has.

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Step 8: Hair (continued)
Noodle
Here’s the most fun part of his hair: the infamous noodle! You will be making just one. How I made
mine:
1. Ch 20, ch 1 more, turn. DC 2 per ch back up the row. You will be making 40 DC in total. This will
create a natural curl. Fasten off.
2. Pin to head right above the two bangs on the left side.

*Tip: Feel free to play around with the positioning of the noodle. The noodle on my Part 3 Kakyoin
was positioned differently from the noodle on my Part 4 Kakyoin. I just eyeballed it and placed it
where it looked most aesthetically pleasing.

**Tip: Pin the fastened off end of the noodle to the head in order to hide any loose ends or knots. It
also gives the end of the curl a nicer finished, look. See picture below.

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Step 8: Hair (continued)
Part 3: Sew all the pieces onto the head.
Tip*: Make sure you rearrange the pieces to your liking. I used the Kakyoin Nendoroid figure as a
guide since the smaller, less complex features gave me a better idea of how the hair could work on a
doll.
Tip**: I sewed all the triangle pieces, the noodle, and mullet wedges with the Coral yarn. For the
smaller, delicate bangs, I sewed them on with orange thread. The thread was easier to work with on
these smaller pieces.
Tip***: Sew the bangs and noodle on last. These pieces will either sit on or overlap the medium
triangles.
Tip****: For the top of his head, with the large triangles and two of the medium triangles, sew
these on so that they dip in the middle. Kakyoin’s hair kind of creates these two peaks at the back
with a part in the middle. When I initially sewed on the triangle pieces I didn’t do this, and it wasn’t
until I sewed those triangles so that they curved towards the center that it began to look more like
Kakyoin. See picture below.

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Step 9: Earrings
Using your smallest hook (1/2.75MM) and the Cardinal Patons Grace yarn, make two circles. I usually make
mine out of 8 SC. Next, use the Night Patons Grace yarn to attach these circles to the head.
Tip*: I use clear tacky glue on the ends of the thread here. Things are so small that the tiny knot of
the black yarn can easily unravel at the ends after I’ve tied it to the red circle. The tacky glue seals
those ends in place.
Tip**: I use a brand of yarn called Patons Grace. It’s a very small, thin cotton yarn. You don’t have to
use this brand, but you want something very small and thread-like since these earrings are going to
be tiny.
Tip***: Adjust the length of these earrings to your liking. I chose to put them in roughly 3 rows
down from eye level and about 6 stiches back from the eye.

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Step 10: Buttons and Collar Decorations
Last, but not least, use gold fabric paint to paint on the buttons and collar decorations. I use Scribbles 3D fab-
ric paint brand, but use whatever you can find.
Tip*: I did two layers for each. Essentially, I painted on the buttons and collar decorations, let them
dry (my fabric paint instructions say about 4 hours), and then paint on the buttons and collar
decorations again. The reason I did this is when the paint dries, it shrinks. Do as many layers as you
think you need to get the look you want.

Tip**: I use a toothpick to spread out the paint for the rectangle collar decorations once I piped it
out of the bottle.

Tip***: I did not do two layers for the buttons on the wrists. I wanted them to be kept small and
flat.

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 And that’s it!
Now you have your very own Noriaki Kakyoin crochet doll!

Thank you so much for checking out this tutorial!

If you end up making your own Noriaki Kakyoin doll, I’d love to see him! Feel free to tag me in any Twitter or
Instagram posts! And if you have any questions about the doll, don’t hesitate to ask!

You can find me:

Twitter: @HookedGoodYarn
Instagram: hookedonagoodyarn
Facebook: @HookedOnAGoodYarn

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