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Mystery Comedy BLOCKIIIpresent

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41 views6 pages

Mystery Comedy BLOCKIIIpresent

Uploaded by

photoangle
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Flutter on By’e Block III Comedy Series c.

2015 by Margaret MacInnis

NOTES: This block is worked on the diagonal. It is a little more challenging than the others. The garter
ridges on the ends are slightly elongated, and there will be fewer of them than in a normal ‘square up’
block. Yarn: 40 g or 1.2 oz/80 yd of worsted to aran-weight yarn that works to 4 st/in in garter. Vanna’s
Choice or a cotton is good.

Needle: caution to use a size smaller than usual. I usually use a US 7 but I used a US 6 for this block and
it is still on the ‘big’ side of 9”.

Yarn Needle

Stitches and Abbreviations


ssk: slip kwise, slip kwise, slip back both together to left needle and knit through back loops

k2tog: knit two stitches together

sl2k1p2sso: slip two stitches together as if to knit them, knit next stitch, pass two slipped stitches, as a
unit, over the knit stitch. A beautifully centered double decrease.

modyo: modified yo before a purl—leave yb, and purl. The resulting ‘line’ across the needle is a smaller
yo than a full pre-purl yo. When knitting it in the following row, knit into the back of it and make sure it’s
untwisted from the previous stitch. This sometimes can be annoying to do, but it works.

wyif: with yarn to the front of the work toward you

yb: yarn back away from you

Instructions
Garter Stitch option—Seed stitch available at end of pattern (not recommended for faint-of-heart)

Cast on 4 stitches

Garter stitch option


kfb: knit the front leg of the stitch, then knit the back leg without taking it off the needle, then move to
right needle. An increase of one.

Cast on 4 stitches

Row 1: knit

Row 2: k2, yo, k2


Row 3: k2, yo, k1, k2 (6 sts)

Row 4: K2, yo, k to end (7 sts)

Row 5: k2, yo, kfb, kfb, k3 (10 sts)

Row 6: k2, yo, k to end (11 sts)

Rows 7-10: k2, yo, k to end (15 sts)

Row 11: k2, yo, kfb next st, k8, kfb next st, k3 (18 sts)

Rows 12-17: rep Row 6 (24 sts)

Both versions continue with Row 18 here:

Row 18: WS: k2, mod yo, p20, k2

Row 19: RS: k2, yo, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2

Row 20: WS: k2, mod yo, purl to last 2 sts, k2 (27 sts)

Row 21: RS: k2, yo, k5, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k5, k2

Row 22: WS: rep Row 20 (29 sts)

Row 23: RS: k2, yo, k5, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k5, k2

Row 24: WS: rep Row 20 (31 sts)

Row 25: RS: k2, yo, k5, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k4, yo, ssk, k5, k2

Row 26: WS: rep Row 20 (33 sts)

Row 27: RS: k2, yo, k5, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k5, k2

Row 28: WS: rep Row 20 (35 sts)

Row 29: RS: k2, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, k2, (k2tog, yo) x 2, k1, (yo, ssk) x 2, k2, ssk, yo, k7, k2

Row 30: WS: rep Row 20 (37 sts)

Row 31: RS: k2, yo, k8, yo, k2tog, k1, (k2tog, yo) x 2, k3, (yo, ssk) x 2, k1, ssk, yo, k8, k2

Row 32: WS: rep Row 20 (39 sts)

Row 33: RS: Note: the (k2tog) and the (ssk) are worked twice in succession, with no yo between them.
k2, yo, k9, yo, (k2tog) twice, yo, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, yo, (ssk) twice, yo, k9, k2

Row 34: WS: rep Row 20 (41 sts)


Row 35: RS: k2, yo, k10, yo, sl2k1p2sso, yo, k2tog, yo, k7, yo, ssk, yo, sl2k1p2sso, yo, k10, k2

Row 36: WS: rep Row 20 (43 sts)

Row 37: RS: k2, yo, k11, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k11, k2

Row 38: WS: rep Row 20 (45 sts)

Row 39: RS: k2, yo, k16, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo, k16, k2

Row 40: WS: rep Row 20 (47 sts)

Row 41: RS: k2, yo, k17, yo, (k2tog) twice, yo, k1, yo, (ssk) twice, yo, k17, k2

Row 42: WS: rep Row 20 (49 sts)

Row 43: RS: Note: you are now decreasing so sides angle in; it is important to not work on automatic
and make sure you are knitting 1, instead of knitting 2 at the beginning: k1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k15, yo,
sl2k1p2sso, yo, k3, yo, sl2k1p2sso, yo, k18, k2

Row 44: Note: Modyo/p2tog is simply achieved by leaving yb, and purling the next two stitches
together; don’t over-think it. WS: k1, k2tog, modyo/p2tog, p to last 2 sts, k2 (47 sts)

Row 45: RS: k1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2

Row 46: WS: rep Row 44 (45 sts)

Row 47: RS: butterfly prep row, slip purlwise: k1, k2tog, yo, ssk, (k5, wyif/sl 5, loosely yb) twice, k5,
wyif/sl 5, loosely yb, k8, k2

Row 48: WS: rep Row 44 (43 sts)

Row 49: RS: butterfly row: k1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k4, (wyif/sl 5, loosely yb, k5) twice, wyif/sl 5, loosely yb, k7,
k2

Row 50: WS: rep Row 44 (41 sts)

Row 51: RS: butterfly row: k1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k3, (wyif/sl 5, loosely yb, k5) twice, wyif/sl 5, loosely yb, k6,
k2

Row 52: WS: collect butterflies: k1, k2tog, modyo/p2tog, p5, reach to RS and dip needle under all three
strands working from below them and scooping and collecting them on the needle, yo, pull loop through
to bottom, p next st, slip the pulled loop over the purled st, p9, repeat butterfly collection, p9, repeat
again, p7 to last 2 sts, k2 (39 sts) Note: you can finger-adjust the butterfly wings so they are evenly
distributed.

Row 53: RS: staggered butterfly row—2 butterflies between: k1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k7, butterfly wyif/sl 5,
yb/k5, butterfly wyif/sl 5, yb, k10, k2
Row 54: WS: rep Row 44 (37 sts)

Row 55: staggered butterfly row: k1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k6, butterfly wyif/sl 5, yb/k5, butterfly wyif/sl 5, yb,
k9, k2

Row 56: WS: rep Row 44 (35 sts)

Row 57: staggered butterfly row: k1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k5, butterfly wyif/sl 5, yb/k5, butterfly wyif/sl 5, yb,
k8, k2

Row 58: WS: collect butterflies: k1, k2tog, modyo/p2tog, p7, collect butterfly, p1, sl over, p9, collect
butterfly, p1, sl over, p9, k2 (33 sts)

Row 59 RS: staggered middle butterfly only: k1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k9, butterfly wyif/sl 5, yb, k12, k2.

Row 60: WS: rep Row 44 (31 sts)

Row 61: RS: staggered one butterfly: k1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k8, butterfly wyif/sl 5, yb, k11, k2

Row 62: WS: rep Row 44 (29 sts)

Row 63: RS: staggered one butterfly: k1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k7, butterfly wyif/sl 5, yb, k10, k2

Row 64: WS: collect butterfly: k1, k2tog, modyo/p2tog, p9, collect butterfly, p1, sl over, p11, k2 (27 sts)

Row 65: RS: k1, k2tog, yo, ssk, k to last 2 sts (k20), k2

Row 66: WS: rep Row 44 (25 sts)

Row 67: RS: Rep Row 65 with (k18) (24 sts)

Row 68: WS: k1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k to end (23 sts)

Row 69: RS: Rep Row 68 (22 sts)

Rep Row 68 to 15 sts on needle. (You will be knitting garter stitch).

Next Row RS: k1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k3 (13 sts)

Next Row WS: k1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k3 (11 sts)

Next Row: RS: k1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k3 (9 sts)

Next Row: WS: k1, k2tog, yo, k2tog twice, k2 (7 sts)

Next Row: RS: k1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2 (6 sts)

Next Row: WS: k1, k2tog twice, k1 (4 sts)

Next Row: RS: k1, k2tog, k1 (3 sts)


Next Row: WS: k2tog, k1, pass stitch over, pull through, and use loop to crochet around if desired, or
weave in end.

FINISHING
This will need a little steam or fairly aggressive blocking to square up.

The crochet edging usual instructions cannot be used, but need to be modified as there are fewer garter
ridges, and no cast on nor bind off rows.

There are approximately 21 ridges per side (if you allow one for each corner); therefore, if you want to
crochet around the edge, you would be increasing by 5 or 6 stitches per side, and working 3 sc into what
is perceived to be the cornermost space. In this case, I would probably recommend just crocheting
directly as sc, without slip stitching first. Either that, or just a slipped stitch edge might work, as long as
you use sufficient slip stitches to make up to 9” (usually around 27-30 per side).

Instructions for seed stitch option


Working seed stitch in sequence is described. The seed stitch is challenging, and there is some
expectation that you can read your work and understand the dynamic of it. If you wish to work the
garter bottom version instead, it is available at the top of this pattern as ‘Garter option’;
recommended for beginners and those who cannot read their work. It’s also a little cleaner looking at
the edges. I like the seed stitch for the texture it gives, and it looks like soil….

kfpb: knit the front leg of the stitch, then purl the back leg of it

pbkf: purl the back leg of the stitch, then knit the front leg of it

Seed over seed: work each stitch the opposite of what presents. In other words, if the presentation is a
purl bump, knit the stitch. If the presentation is a knit V, purl the stitch. If it’s a fresh row, start by (k1,
p1) and repeat to end.

Cast on 4 stitches

Row 1: knit

Row 2: k2, yo, k2

Row 3: k2, yo, k1, k2 (6 sts)

Row 4: k2, yo, seed st over previous stitches (k1, p1) to last 2 sts, k2 (7 sts)

Row 5: k2, yo, kfpb next st, k1, pbkf, k2 (10 sts)

Row 6: k2, yo, seed over to last 2 sts, k2 (11 sts)


Rows 7-10: k2, mod yo on Rows 7/8, reg yo on Rows 9/10, seed over previous seed to last 2 sts, k2 (15
sts)

Row 11: k2, yo, kfpb next st, seed over seed to last 3 sts, pbkf next st, k2 (18 sts)

Rows 12-17: rep Row 6 (24 sts)

Finish at Row 18 as for Garter Stitch option

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