Genti 1

Sophisticated Granny

Size: About 7 3/4 x 11 1/2 inches

Materials: Medium (worsted) weight cotton, 7 oz (370 yds, 200g) tan; 3 1/2 oz (190 yds,
100g) cream
Note: Our photographed purse was made with Coats & Clark TLC Cotton Plus, Tan #3303
and Cream #3100.
Crochet Hook: Size G (4.25mm) crochet hook, or size required for gauge
Size H (5mm) crochet hook
1/2 yd brown cotton fabric (for lining)
12-inch brown zipper
Sewing needle and matching thread
12 x 18 inch sheet plastic canvas
Tapestry needle
Gauge: With smaller size hook: motif = 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 inches
Instructions: Side (make 2)
Pattern Stitch
Cluster (CL): Keeping last lp of each dc on hook, dc in 2 sts indicated, YO and draw through
all 3 lps on hook—CL made.
Cream Flower Motif (make 3)
With smaller hook and cream, ch 6; join to form a ring.
R1 (right side): Ch 1, 16 sc in ring; join in FL only of first sc - 16 sc.
R2: Working in FLs only, ch 3, CL (see Pattern Stitch) over same sc as joining and next sc;
*ch 3, sl st in next sc, ch 3, CL over same sc as last sl st made and next sc - petal made;
rep from* 6 times more; ch 3, join in same st as beg ch-3 - 8 petals.
Finish off.
Hold piece with right side facing you, working behind Rnd 2 in unused lps of Rnd 1, with
smaller size hook join tan in unused lp of first sc of Rnd 1.
R3: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch-3 sp); * sk next lp, dc in next lp, ch 3; rep from * 6 times more;
sk next lp; join in 3rd ch of beg ch-6—8 ch-3 sps.
R4: Sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 4 (counts as a dc and ch-1 sp); * † in next ch-3 sp work (4 dc, ch
3, 4 dc)—shell made; ch 1 †; dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1; rep from * twice more, then rep
from † to † once; join in 3rd ch of beg ch-4.

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R5: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), * † dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, shell in ch-3 sp of next shell; ch 2, dc
in next ch-1 sp †; dc in next dc; rep from * twice more, then rep from † to † once; join
in 3rd ch of beg ch-3.
Finish off and weave in all ends.
Tan Flower Motif (make 3)
R1-2: With tan, rep Rnds 1 and 2 of Cream
Flower Motif.
R3-5: With cream, rep Rnds 3 through 5 of Cream Flower Motif.
Assembly
Referring to Assembly Diagram for color placement, join motifs in 2 rows of 3 motifs each.
To join, hold 2 motifs with right sides together carefully matching stitches. Working through
both thicknesses at the same time, with smaller hook, join tan in 2nd ch of any corner ch-3 sp;
sl st in next ch; working in outer lps only, sl st in each st to 2nd ch of next corner ch-3 sp.
Finish off.
Join rem motifs in same manner.
Repeat with rem motifs for other side.
Border
Hold one side with right side facing you, with tan make slip knot on smaller hook and join
with an sc in BL only of 2nd ch of Tan Flower

Sunflower purse

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: 6 1/2" x 9 3/4"
Materials:
Coats Opera crochet cotton size 5 (50 grams per ball):2 balls each russet #560 (MC) and ecru
#503 (CC)
Kreinik metallic blending filament (55 yds per spool): 2 spools beige #013-BF
Size D/3 crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
12 (8mm) amber beads
1/4 yd russet fabric
11" russet all-purpose zipper
Sewing needle and ecru and matching thread
Gauge: Motif = 2 7/8" square with 2 strands CC held tog
Check gauge to save time.
Pattern Note
Join rnds with a sl st unless otherwise stated.
Pattern Stitches
Puff st: [Yo, draw up a lp] 4 times in indicated st, yo, draw through all lps on hook.

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Beg puff st: Ch 3, [yo, draw up a lp] 3 times in indicated st, yo, draw through all lps on hook.
Shell: [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in indicated st or sp.
Motif: Make 12
R1 (RS): With 2 strands CC and 1 strand blending filament held tog, ch 6, join to form a ring,
ch 4 (counts as first dc, ch-1), [dc, ch 1] 11 times in ring, join in 3rd ch of beg ch-4.(12
dc)
R2: Beg puff st in same st as joining, *ch 2, [puff st in next dc, ch 3] twice **, puff st in next
dc, rep from * around, ending last rep at **, join in top of beg puff st, fasten off.
R3: With RS facing, attach 2 strands MC held tog with a sl st in any ch-3 sp immediately to
the right of any ch-2 sp, ch 1, 3 sc in same sp, 3 sc in each of next 2 sps, ch 5, [3 sc in
each of next 3 sps, ch 5] rep around, join in beg sc.
R4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each of next 8 sc, *shell in next ch-5 sp, dc in each of next
9 sc, rep from * around, ending with shell in last ch-5 sp, join in 3rd ch of beg ch-3,
fasten off.
With sewing needle and matching thread, sew 1 bead at the center of Rnd 1.
Purse Front
Arrange 6 motifs in 2 horizontal rows of 3 motifs each.With RS facing, attach 2 strands CC
and 1 strand blending filament held tog with a sl st in center ch of ch-3 sp at upper right
corner of first motif at right-hand edge of bottom row, ch 1, sl st in center ch of ch-3 sp at
bottom right corner of first motif at right-hand edge of top row, *ch 1, sl st in next dc on
lower motif, ch 1, sl st in next dc on upper motif, [ch 1, sk next dc on lower motif, sl st in next
dc, ch 1, sk next dc on upper motif, sl st in next dc] 7 times, ch 1, sl st in center ch of ch-3 sp
on lower motif, ch 1, sl st in center ch of ch-3 sp on upper motif **, ch 1, sl st in center ch of
first ch-3 sp on next lower motif, ch 1, sl st in center ch of first ch-3 sp on next upper motif,
rep from *across, ending last rep at **, fasten off.Join rem 2 vertical rows in established
pattern.
Border
With RS facing, attach 2 strands MC held tog with a sl st in first dc after a ch-3 corner sp
across either long edge, ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in each dc across to next sp **, 2 sc in sp, hdc
in seam, 2 sc in next sp, rep from *across to next corner, ending last rep at **, 5 sc in corner
sp, rep from * around, join in beg sc, fasten off.
Purse Back
Rep instructions for purse front.
Border
Rep instructions for front border.
Gusset
R1:With 2 strands MC held tog, ch 142;working on WS in horizontal strands at center of each
ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch across, ch 1, turn.(141 sc)
R2 (RS): Sc in each sc across, fasten off.
Join Gusset to Purse
With RS facing, attach 2 strands CC and 1 strand blending filament held tog with a sl st in
first sc on Row 2 of gusset, ch 1, sl st in center sc of border at upper right-hand corner on
either front or back of purse, [ch 1, sk next sc on gusset, sl st in next sc, ch 1, sk next sc on
purse border, sl st in next sc] rep across to center sc of border at upper left-hand corner of
purse, fasten off.
Rep across opposite side of gusset and rem front or back of purse.
Top Edging
With RS facing, attach 2 strands CC and 1 strand blending filament held tog with a sl st in
next unworked sc of border at right-hand edge of top opening on either Sunflowers

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Geanta alba Laura

Diagrama bazei

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Diagrama motivului

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Gentuta Capsunica

Materiale necesare:50 g fir rosu (100% bumbac mercerizat); 50 g fir verde; cateva grame fir
alb si fir galben;
Croseta nr.3; margelute galbene.
Densitatea lucrarii: 18 picioruse = 15 randuri = 10 cm.
Gentuta este crosetata cu semipicioruse in doua fire. Se croseteaza un lant din 19 ochiuri.
Primul semipiciorus se va croseta in al doilea ochi lant. Dupa, se va croseta circular dupa
schema care reprezinta fundul gentutei.
Incepand cu randul 5 se va croseta partea principala a gentutei. In randul 12 vom avea 64
semipicioruse. Crosetarea cu fir verde se va realiza in felul urmator: lucrarea se va intoarce si
se va croseta in directie opusa cu fir verde.
Din randul 26 se vor croseta frunzele. Fiecare frunza se va croseta separat. Unei frunze ii
revin 8 semipicioruse.
Marginea gentutei se va finisa cu pasi de rac.
Manerele gentii: Se croseteaza un lant din 50 ochiuri si se croseteaza 4 randuri cu
semipicioruse.
Se vor croseta 4 flori conform schemei.
Manerele gentutei se trc prin gaurile lasate special pentru ele si se cos. Se cos florile (vezi
poza). Dupa dorinta se pot coase margelute.

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Modele genti

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Poseta ocazie

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Use a shiny silk thread in light gold to crochet a beautiful heirloom-quality bag. Small beads
also compliment the design of this lace crochet bag pattern.
Materials:
 Crochet Hook; steel, size 4
 Thread: 100m of Silk Serica — we used color 2013 Light Gold
 small, coil-less safety pin (regular safety pins will snag silk thread)
 optional: 80 beads to match or complement thread color
 fabrics: lining — 12-inch square of matching satin; interlining — 12-inch square of
soft lining fabric
 one tapestry needle size 22 or size to fit through beads and thread
Gauge: 8 sc (across top opening of bag) = 1 inch
Instructions:
Beg: Ch 12, form into a ring with 1 sl st into first ch.

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R1: Ch 3, 35 dc in ring. End with 1 slip st in top of starting ch. Ch 1, turn.

R2: Working in back lp of ea dc, work 1 sc in ea dc around. (36 sc counting starting ch of 1,
as 1st sc.) Turn.
R3: Working in back lp only, 1 sc in ea sc. End with 1 sl st in 1st sc. Do NOT turn at end of
row.
R4: Ch 3, sk 1st sc, work in both lps of ea sc (1 dc in ea of next 3 sc, ch 3) 9 times, ch 3, 1 sc
in ea of next 7 sc, sk last sc.
R5: (Ch 3, 2 dc in center dc of next 3-dc block, ch 2, 2 dc in same st, [dc shell made] 9 times)
ch 3, 2 sc in ch-3 sp, 1 sc in ea of next 7 sc, 2 sc in last ch-3 sp. (11 sc in solid block of
sc at top of purse + 9 dc shells)
R6: Ch 3, (shell in center of next shell, ch 6.) 9 times, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next
11 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (15 sc in solid block + 9 shells).
R7: (Ch 3, 9 dc in center of next shell, ch 3, 1 sc in ch-6 lp) 9 times, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc
in ea of next 15 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (19 sc + 9-dc shells.)
R8: (Ch 12, 1 sc in 5th dc of ea 9-dc group,) 9 times, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next 19
sc, 2 sc in last lp. (23 sc + 9 ch-12 lps.)
R9: Ch 3, (12 dc in ea lp) 9 times, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next 23 sc, 2 sc in last lp.
(27 sc + 9, 12-dc groups.)
R10: Ch 3, 1 dc in ea of next 3 dc, (ch 3, 1 dc in ea of next 6 dc) 16 times, ch 3, 1 dc in ea of
next 3 dc, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next 27 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (31 sc, + 17
groups of 6 dc + 3 dc to start and finish round.)
R11: Ch 3, dc-shell in first sp, (dc-shell in next lp, ch 4) ch 3, 2 sc in last lp, 1 sc in ea sc, 2 sc
in last lp. (35 sc + 18 shells.)
R12: Ch 3, (shell in center of next lp, ch 5) 18 times, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea sc, 2 sc last lp,
ch 3. (39 sc + 18 shells.)
R13: (Ch 3, 2 dc in next shell, ch 4, 1 sc in 1st ch of ch-4 ch, [1 picot made] 4 times in same
shell, 2 dc in same shell, [1 large picot shell made] ch 3, insert hk under both ch lps of
last 2 rounds and work 1 sc) 18 times, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea sc, 2 sc in last lp. (43 sc
+ 18 lge picot shells). End off thread.
Repeat rnds 1-13 to make second half of bag identical to the first.
Beads
Thread 76 beads onto a spool of Silk Serica thread. (Reserve 4 rem beads for
drawstring handles.) Choose a tapestry needle that will pass through both the bead eye while
large enough to thread needle with silk.
Crochet both halves together to include beads as follows:
Hold both halves together, one over the other, wrong sides facing to join. Ch 2, 1 sc
in 1st picot of front half of bag, ch 2, 1 sc in 1st picot of back half of bag, ch 2, 1 sc in next
picot of front half of bag, bring 1 bead upward on thread holding it firmly against the hk, sl st
to hold bead in place, ch 2, 1 sc in next picot of back half of bag. Repeat, around the edges of
both halves of bag, placing a bead after completing ea sc on front half of bag. Make sure that
you are always joining the picots from one half of the bag to the corresponding picot of the
second. You should have 4 beads for each picot in ea large picot shell. Rep until both sides
are joined together leaving sc sections separate to form opening at top of bag. Do not cut
thread.
Edging:
Work around top opening of bag only using the strand of silk thread still in place:
R1: Ch 5, (sk 2 dc, 1 dc in next lp) twice, ch 5, 1 dc in sp between next 4-dc group, ch 5, sk
next 2 dc, 1 dc in next lp, ch 5 (1 dc in next sc and in ea 3rd sc around bag opening,)
end with ch 5, 1 dc in last sp, ch 5, sk 2 dc, 1 dc between last 2 dc, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch
of starting ch. (42 lps)

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R2: Ch 3, (1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in 1st lp, ch 3, 1 sc in next lp, ch 3, dc-shell in next lp. Rep from
around. (21 dc-shells.)
R3: Sl st to reach next ch 3 sp in center of shell, ch 3, (counts as 1st dc of 1st shell only,
complete lge picot shell as in row 13, sk next 2 lps, 1 lge picot shell in ea ch 2-sp of ea
shell of prev rnd. End with 1 sl st in 1st st of 1st shell, end off. Weave in all cut ends.
Draw-string handles: make 4
Using same hk and silk thread, crochet a chain 32-inches long.
Turn, ch 1, sc into ea ch to end. Cut thread leaving 5-inch tails.
Starting at side seam of bag, thread strip in and out of the lowest row of shell spaces on one
side of bag. Withdraw strip at opposite edge of side seam. Pull strip until even at both sides.
Turn purse and repeat for back half of purse.
Staring at side seam of bag, thread 3rd strip in and out of the row of shell spaces just above
the first, taking care to alternate the spaces used with the previous strip. End at side seam. Rep
for 4th strip.
Pull strips evenly so they extend beyond the sides of the purse evenly.
Close handles:
Take cut ends of silk on ea strip and using the needle, thread 1 bead onto the end of
the silk. Rep for second strip on same side of bag. Join ends of strips by passing the needle
through the eye of both beads 2 or 3 times as space allows in the bead hole. Cut rem thread
ends and weave them into the sc portion of each strip. Rep for opposite of bag. Bag closes by
pulling each dbl handle on ea side to gather. To open, pull gathers apart. Dry block by pinning
purse and handles on blocking board. Be sure to use rust-proof pins to avoid leaving marks on
silk. Cover with a damp cloth for an hour or so. Remove cloth and allow bag to dry
thoroughly.
Lining and interlining:
Choose matching or contrasting color of heavy satin for lining. Cut 2.
Choose a lighter weight in harmonious color for interlining. Cut 2. Do not use heavy
satin for both layers or purse will become stiff and may lose its shape.
Cut fabric using blocked purse as a pattern, allowing at least one-inch of seam
allowance around the edge of the purse. Baste the two pieces of satin together, right sides
facing. Turn right outside and drop lining into purse. Adjust seam allowances as needed to
completely fill the purse without wrinkles. Remove satin lining from purse and stitch around
by hand or machine to fit purse. Trim excess fabric in seam allowance. Turn right side out and
press seams well around. Set aside.
Cut interlining using the same pattern shape as you used for the final shape/size of
satin lining. Right sides facing, sew around making seam allowance 1/8” smaller than lining.
This allows the weight of the contents of the bag to be borne by the interlining rather than to
stretch the lace itself. Do not turn interlining inside out. Instead, drop it into the lining so seam
allowances of interlining lie against the wrong side of lining. Use your hand to make sure
both layers are even throughout.
Last, turn the seam allowances of both lining and interlining to fit the last row of the
sc crocheted portion of the bag. Manipulate so that both seam allowances face each other,
leaving neat folds of each fabric layer at top. Pin with long silk pins around the opening of
bag. Ease as needed to avoid tucks as lining is just a bit larger than interlining. When both
layers are smooth and pinned around the bag’s opening, using matching silk thread and tiny
whipped stitches, attach both fabric layers as one around the crochet portion of bag. Make
sure not to catch the handle strips into your stitching otherwise the draw-strings will not be
able to be pulled together to open or close. They must slide easily through the spaces of the
lace.

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Hello Kitty 1

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Hello Kitty 2

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You will need: 2 balls of 100% cotton / 125m = 50 gr / pink, 1 ball of 100% cotton white, 1
ball of 100% cotton yellow, 1 ball of 100% cotton red, black yarn for eyes
Bag has 20cm x 22cm.
We start with white yarn: start with 10 chains
R1: start with single crochet into second chain from hook, continue with 8 sc, into the last
chain crochet 3 sc, fron the other side 8 sc, row ends with slipchain

R2: chain, sc, 2 sc into one sc from last row, 7sc, 2 sc into one sc from last row, 2 sc, 2 sc into
one sc from last row, 8 sc, 2 sc into one sc from last row, sc, row ends with slip chain

R3: chain, sc, 2 sc into one sc from last row, 9 sc, 2 sc into one sc from last row, 1 sc, 2 sc
into one sc from last row, 9 sc, 2 sc into one sc from last row, 1 sc, slip chain

R5: chain, 2 sc, 2 sc into one sc from last row, 9 sc, 2 sc into one sc from last row, 4 sc, 2 sc
into one sc from last row, 9 sc, 2 sc into one sc from last row, 1 sc, slip chain

R6: cahin, 2 sc, hdc, dc, 6x tdc into one sc from last row, dc, hdc, 5 sc, dc, 6x tdc into one sc
from last row, dc, hdc, 21 sc, row ends with slip chain, tear off.

We finished Hello Kitty, you can use it as application for trousers, for shirt, for bags...
With red yarn crochet with sc around, tear off...........

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Continue with ping yarn:

3chain, dc into one sc from last rowds , 2chains, slip 2sc, 2hdc, 3chain /corner/, slip 2sc, 2hdc
into one sc, 2chain, slip 2sc, hdc and dc into one sc, chain, slip sc, 2dc into one sc, chain, slip
sc, 2dc into one sc, chain, slip sc, dc and hdc into one sc, 2chain, slip 2sc, 2hdc into one sc,
3chain, /corner/ slip 2sc, 2hdc into one sc, slip 2sc, 2chain, 2dc into one sc, chain, slip sc, 2dc,
chain, slip sc, 2dc into onesc, chain, slip sc, 2dc, 3chain /corner/ 2dc into one sc, chain, slip
sc, 2dc into one sc, chain, slip sc, 2dc into one sc, chain, slip sc, 2dc into one sc, chain, slip sc,
2dc into one sc, chain, slip sc, 2dc, 3chain /corner/ 2dc into one sc, chain, slip sc, 2dc into one
sc, sc, slip sc, 2dc into one sc, chain, slip sc, row ends with slip chain.

For bag we need 4 of these shapes.

Cats are ready.
Other shape: start with 6 chain, make round:
R1: 4chains instead of first treble crochet, 2x treble crochet, 2chains, + 2x treble crochet, 2
chains + pattern between + repeat six more. Round ends with slip chain. At the end of row we
have 8 která nahrazují první 2x nahozený dlouhý sloupek, 2x nahozený dlouhý sloupek,
2řetízková oka, +2 2x nahozený dlouhý sloupek, 2 řetízková oka+ vzor mezi + opakujeme
ještě 6x, řadu končíme pevným okem, celkem máme 8 pairs of treble crochet.

R2: red, 4chain instead of frirt treble crochet, 3x treble crochet, chain, + 4x treble crochet, 2
chains + patter between + repeat 6 more, row ends with slip chain. Together we have
8 couples from 4 treble crochet :

R3: pink, start with 4 chains instead of first treble crochet, 2 treble crochet, + 2chain, in next
loom 3 treble crochet, 3 chain /corner /, in same loom 3 treble crochet, 2 chains, 3 treble
crochet + patter between + repeat 3 more, row ends with slip chain

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R4: single crochet around, at the same time we join on next square:
jooin them together with slip chain, then two single crochet, and next slip crochet join
together..continue around. If you dont want to join them together, you can sew them when
you get ready all the square.

Sew eyes, nose and whiskers.

On the top make 8 rounds with single crochet and last row with pickots / + 5single crochet, 3
chain, sinlge crochet in first chain /+ pattern between + repeat

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Infant crochet purse Hello Kitty 3

To make this bag used online Bella and 2.5 mm needle.

Follow the graph I found on the net.
The handle was made of polypropylene rope and thread and needle tropfil 5 mm.
The eyes and nose made of felt and glued with hot glue.
The mustache was embroidered with thread pingouin 1000.
For loop, did 13 chains, then 5 rows as follows: 1 half high point in the first 5 chains, down 1
point in each of the following corentes 3 and 1 half high point in each chain end. After
furrowed in the middle and glued a flower cloth.
The lining was made with taffeta and used velcro closure.

Hello Kitty 4
Yolanda Soto Lopez

Materials
Hook G/6 4.25
Hook I/ 9 5.5mm
Medium weight (4weight) Acrylic yarn in the following colors;
White (110yards)
Lt. Pink (about 30 yards)
Scraps of yellow yarn
Scraps of black yarn
Stitches used: single crochet and half double crochet. You will be working in rounds and
will not be joining your rounds.
Face (Make 2) With Size I/9 5.5mm hook.
Begin: Ch 9
R1: 1sc in next 7 ch, 3sc in last ch, (working on other side of chain) 1 sc in next 6 ch, 3 sc in
last year
R2: 2sc in 1st st (place stitch marker in your 1st stitch for this and every round) sc in next 7
st, 2sc, 2sc, sc in next 8 st, 2sc, 2sc
R3: sc in next 9 st, 2sc, 2sc, 2sc, sc in next 9 st, 2sc, 2sc, 2sc,

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R4: sc in next 10 st, 2sc (5times), sc in next 11 st, 2sc (5times)

R5 – 6 : 1 sc in ea st
R7: sc in next 11 st, [2sc, sc in next 2 st] 3 times, sc in next 14 st
R8: sc in next 10 st, [2sc, sc in next st] 4 times, sc in next 11 st, [2sc, sc in next st] 4 times
R9: 1 sc in ea st , fasten off
Ears: Attach to the 7th st above the middle of piece (fold and find center and count up, see
photo),

Fold piece to find other end (also 7th st above fold . See photo

You will work your ears between these stitches.

Attach yarn to your right stitch marker stitch (see photo)

Right Ear:
R1 - 2: Ch 1, sc in next 19 st
R3: Ch 1, turn work, sc in next 7 st, (leave remaining stitches unworked)
R4: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st
R5: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc2tog
R6: Ch 1, sc, sc, fasten off
Left Ear: Attach yarn to the 3rd ch of unworked stitches in row 1
R1: Sc in next 7 st
R2: Sc in ea st
R3: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc2tog
R4: Ch 1, sc, sc, fasten off
Now you will work 1 row of hdc around edge of both pieces. (In pink yarn) See photo

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Eyes and Nose are worked the same. Change to Hook G/6 4.25
Work eyes in black yarn and nose with yellow yarn. Nose is sewn on horizontally and the
eyes are sewn on vertically. See photo of finished work
R1: Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, 4sc in last ch, sc in next 2 ch, fasten off
Whiskers : Embroider whiskers using the ridges of the rounds as a guide. See photo of
finished work.
Gussett: Ch 41,
R1: 1hdc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 hdc in ea remaining st
R2-5: ch 1, 1hdc in ea stitch, fasten off
Attach gusset to lower corner stitch of ear. Work 1 hdc in each stitch (40 stitches).

Attach the other edge of the gusset to your back piece in the same way. Slip stitch all the
way around.

Handle: Attach pink yarn to middle of top gusset. Ch 80.. attach to other edge of gusset, sc,
now work 1 sl st into each ch. When you get back to the 1st st, fasten off.
Bow: Ch 18
R1: dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in ea st
R2-3: ch 3, 1dc in ea st, work last dc on top of 3rd ch. Fasten off, sew in tails.

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Hello Kitty 5

Materials:
5.00mm/US H(8) crochet hook
6.00mm/US J(10) crochet hook
Optional but highly recommended: Stitch markers
(Alice at futuregirl.com has a tutorial on how to make stitch markers out of paper clips.)
Worsted weight yarn for: face (white), outline (your choice; I used grey; red is also very nice)
background (your choice; I used bright pink for one scarf, purple for another, and aqua for a
third), eyes and whiskers (black), nose (yellow, or light pink if you don’t care about being
“authentic”), flower or bow (your choice; I used yellow), granny square colors 1, 2, 3 (I used
white, grey, and my background color)
(Model made with Caron Simply Soft)
Gauge: 4 sc = 1” (2.5 cm), 4-5 rows of sc = 1” (2.5 cm)
Finished Size: Width: about 18 cm, Length: depends on number of squares you use
Each granny square*: 13 cm x 16 cm
Face appliqué only: 8 cm x 11 cm
Abbreviations:
Most of these abbreviations are standard. The ones I made up are shown in bold.
sc x N = single crochet in next N stitches, where N is some number
V = 2 single crochets in next stitch
V x N = 2 single crochets each in next N stitches, where N is some number
W = 3 single crochets in next stitch
Special Stitches & Techniques:
DOUBLE = skip 4 st, 3 dc in next st (for face square)
or skip 3 dc st from prev rnd , 3 dc in next ch sp (for granny square)
EAR = sl st in next st, hdc in next st, ch 1, dc in same st as hdc, ch 1, tc in next st, ch 1, dc in
next st, ch 1, hdc in same st as dc, sl st in next st
fsc = foundation single crochet. A year ago, I’d never heard of this stitch. Now it’s
my favorite way to start. In this case of only 4 starting stitches, it doesn’t make that big a
difference, so if you’d rather not learn it right now, I’ve provided an alternate method. But on
pieces that start with longer chains, I find fsc so much easier, faster, nicer. Essentially, each
fsc stitch is made of up a “chain” part and a “stitch” part. So you get your starting chain and
your first row at the same time! Do an online search for “foundation single crochet” for more
info, tutorials, videos… Here’s a great fsc tutorial with photos to get you started, from Alice
at futuregirl.com
magic ring = an alternate beginning method when crocheting in the round, which allows one
to avoid having a hole left at the center start. Essentially, instead of slip stitching a short chain
to make a ring, you make a ring by looping the yarn around your fingers. Need some photos

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and more instructions? Here’s a great magic ring tutorial by June that includes a comparison
picture (“normal” way with hole and “magic ring” way without hole), but her tutorial uses
single crochet around the ring. Here’sanother great magic ring tutorial by Donna which
doesn’t have the comparison picture but does use double crochet which is what we need for
the granny squares.
JSS = joining slip stitch. Another great technique, this is for joining granny squares as you go
instead of stitching them all together at the end. I first sawthis technique beautifully
explained by Lucy at attic24. Essentially, you substitute a slip stitch for a chain stitch along
sides you want to join, inserting your hook into the corresponding chain space of another
square before completing the slip stitch. For the scarf, always join along the longer edge of
the square. I’ve given detailed steps with photos in theJoin As You Go section below.
picot = sc, ch3, sl st in 1st ch or sl st, ch 3, sl st in same st or whatever picot stitch you prefer
TRIPLE = skip 4 st, 3 tc in next st (for face square)
or skip 3 tc st from prev rnd , 3 tc in next ch sp (for granny square)

Kitty Faces
You’ll need to make one for each Hello Kitty Granny Square in your scarf. I’m making two
per scarf.

I used my own shorthand for writing these directions. Example: R5: ch1, turn, sc x 2, V, sc x
6, V, sc… means that after you chain 1 and turn, you make 1 single crochet in the next 2
stitches (sc x 2), then make 2 single crochets in the next stitch (V), followed by one single
crochet in the next 6 stitches (sc x 6), and again 2 sc in the next stitch(V), followed by 1
single crochet in the next stitch (sc), etc.
If you would prefer to use conventional crochet pattern terminology, here’s the pattern using
abbreviations and here’s thepattern using full text.
Notes:
Stitch count is shown at end of each line. Ex. “—18 sts.”
Do not count the ch1 at the start of each round as a stitch. Do count the sl st at the end of each
row as a stitch. (So, the sl st at end of current round becomes the “first stitch” to use in next
round.)
Start with face color yarn(white) and 5.00mm hook:
R1: 4 fsc (or alternate method: ch5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in remaining 3 ch) —4 sts.
R2: ch1, turn, V (in top of fsc closest to hook), sc in next 2 sts, V (in top of last fsc), V (in
bottom of last fsc), 3 sc in bottoms of next 3 fsc, sl st to 1st sc of current round —12 sts.
R3: ch1, turn, sc, V, sc x 2, V x 3, sc x 4, V, sl st to 1st sc of current round —18 sts.
R4: ch1, turn, sc, V, sc x 6, V x 3, sc x 6, V, sl st to 1st sc of current round —24 sts.
R5: ch1, turn, sc x 2, V, sc x 6, V, sc, V, sc, V, sc x 8, V, sc, sl st to 1st sc of current round —
30 sts.

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 Genti 1

R6: ch1, turn, sc x 3, V, sc x 8, V, sc, V, sc x 2, V, sc x 10, V, sc, sl st to 1st sc of current

round —36 sts.
R7: ch1, turn, sc x 3, V, sc x 10, V, sc x 2, V, sc x 2, ear, sc x 4, ear, sc x 2, switch yarn
to outline color (grey), sl st to 1st sc of current round (pulling the new color through) —52 st.
Continuing with outline color (grey):
R8: ch1, turn, sc x 3, skip sl st, sc x 4, W (mark middle/2nd stitch), sc x 4, skip sl st, sc x 4,
skip sl st, sc x 4, W, sc x 4, skip sl st, sc x 2, V, sc x 2, V, sc x 14, V, sc x 2, sl st to 1st sc of
current round; bind off —56 st.

Granny Square Centers

Time to make the other squares for the scarf, the ones that looks like regular Granny Squares.
Only thing: they’ve been altered slightly to make them into rectangles instead of squares so
that they’ll match the finished shape of the Hello Kitty Granny Squares.
Make as many as you need for your scarf. I’m making at least 7 per scarf, 4 starting with
white and 3 with grey.

In a nutshell, along two sides opposite each other, I substituted triple crochets for the double
crochets (see photo below). So if you already know how to granny square, grab a 6.00mm
hook and have at it, making the necessary stitch changes on two sides.

Otherwise, here’s the pattern for the slightly altered granny squares.By the way, here’s a
video by Beth showing how to change color and draw in your starting tail on granny squares
and here’s a video by Anne showing how to weave in your ending tails on granny squares.
Start with Color 1 (white/grey) yarn and 6.00mm hook:
Start: use a magic ring (or alternate method: ch 6, or 5 or 4…, sl st to starting ch to join into a
ring).
R1: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc st, here and throughout), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, 3 tc in ring, ch 2, 3 dc in
ring, ch2, 3 tc in ring, ch 2 (this makes the 4th corner), sl st to top chain of beg ch-3. Bind off.
Switch to Color 2 (background color: pink, purple, aqua) yarn.
R2: Insert hook into the 4th corner ch-2 sp, yo (with new color) and pull a loop through, ch3,
2 dc in same sp, {ch1, DOUBLE,} ch 2, 3 tc in same sp, {ch 1, TRIPLE,} ch2, 3 dc in same
sp, {ch 1, DOUBLE,} ch 2, 3 tc in same sp, {ch 1, TRIPLE,} ch2, sl st to top chain of beg ch-
3. Bind off.
Switch to Color 3 (grey/white) yarn.
R3: Same as R2, except do parts in {} brackets twice. Bind off.(Optional: markthe 4th corner
so you can easily see which corner to start at later.)

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By the way, here’s a video by Beth showing how to change color and draw in your starting
tail on granny squares and here’s a video by Anne showing how to weave in your ending tails
on granny squares.

Last Rounds
Your squares – kitty and granny – should all be almost done now, just waiting for their last
round(s).
For this part, first decide on the order in which you’ll be attaching the squares to form the
scarf.
Next, finish your first square separately. (Or if you don’t want to “join as you go”, then
finish all your squares separately, using the following two patterns. Then whipstitch/stitch/sc
them together.)
***
Here is the pattern to finish a stand-alone Hello Kitty Granny Square (as shown below).

Start with background color yarn (pink), 5.00mm hook and a Hello Kitty face:
R9: Turn/Hold face so marked ear is on the right if you’re right-handed, on the left if you’re
left-handed. Starting at tip of ear, put hook through middle (marked) st of W in previous
round, yo and pull loop through, ch 1, sc in same st, sc x 5, skip 1 st, sc x 2, skip 1 st, sc x 5,
W, sc x 13, V, sc x 12, V, sc x 14 (14th sc is in same st as 1st sc of current round), sl st to 1st
sc of current round —60 st.
(If you prefer to use conventional crochet pattern terminology, abbreviated version is here and
full text is here.)
Switch to larger 6.00mm hook.
R10: Don’t turn. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc st), 2 dc in sl st from previous round, ch1, TRIPLE,
ch1, TRIPLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch 2,
3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, TRIPLE, ch2,
3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, TRIPLE, ch 2,
3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, TRIPLE, ch 2,
sl st to top chain of beg ch-3; bind off —68 st.
***
Here is the pattern to finish a stand-alone regular Granny Square.
(photo coming soon…)
Start with background color yarn (pink), 6.00mm hook and a Granny Square Center:
R4: Insert hook into the (marked) 4th corner ch-2 sp, yo (with new color) and pull a loop
through, ch3, 2 dc in same sp, {ch1, DOUBLE} 3 times, ch 2, 3 tc in same sp, {ch 1,
TRIPLE} 3 times, ch2, 3 dc in same sp, {ch 1, DOUBLE} 3 times, ch 2, 3 tc in same sp, {ch
1, TRIPLE} 3 times, ch2, sl st to top chain of beg ch-3. Bind off.
***
Next, finish the remaining squares, joining one edge to a previous square as you go by
substituting joining slip stitches for chain along that edge. Photo tutorial down at the end.
***

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If your next square is a regular granny square, here are the directions for adding the last round
and joining as you go.

Start with background color yarn (pink), 6.00mm hook and a Granny Square Center:
Round 4: Insert hook into a (marked) 4th corner ch-2 sp, yo (with new color) and pull a loop
through, ch3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same sp, {ch1, DOUBLE} 3 times, ch 2, 3 tc in same sp,
{ch 1, TRIPLE} 3 times, JSS, ch 1, 3 dc in same sp, {JSS, DOUBLE} 3 times, ch 1, JSS, 3 tc
in same sp, {ch 1, TRIPLE} 3 times, ch2, sl st to top chain of beg ch-3. Bind off.
***
If your next square is a Hello Kitty with the joining edge at the bottom, i.e. under her chin,
below are the directions for the last two rounds and joining as you go.
(photo coming soon)
Start with background color yarn (pink), 5.00mm hook and a Hello Kitty face:
R9: Turn/Hold face so marked ear is on the right if you’re right-handed, on the left if you’re
left-handed. Starting at tip of ear, put hook through middle (marked) st of W in previous
round, yo and pull loop through, ch 1, sc in same st, sc x 5, skip 1 st, sc x 2, skip 1 st, sc x 5,
W, sc x 13, V, sc x 12, V, sc x 14 (14th sc is in same st as 1st sc of current round), sl st to 1st
sc of current round —60 st.
(If you prefer to use conventional crochet pattern terminology, abbreviated version is here and
full text is here.)
Switch to larger 6.00mm hook.
R10: Don’t turn. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc st), 2 dc in sl st from previous round, ch1, TRIPLE,
ch1, TRIPLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch 2,
3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, TRIPLE, JSS, ch1, 3 tc in same st, JSS,
DOUBLE, JSS, DOUBLE, JSS, TRIPLE, ch1, JSS, 3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1,
DOUBLE, ch1, TRIPLE, ch2, sl st to top chain of beg ch-3; bind off —68 st.
***
And if your next square is a Hello Kitty with the joining edge at the top, i.e. above the ears,
below are those directions.
(photo coming soon)
Start with background color yarn (pink), 5.00mm hook and a Hello Kitty face:
R9: Turn/Hold face so marked ear is on the right if you’re right-handed, on the left if you’re
left-handed. Starting at tip of ear, put hook through middle (marked) st of W in previous
round, yo and pull loop through, ch 1, sc in same st, sc x 5, skip 1 st, sc x 2, skip 1 st, sc x 5,
W, sc x 13, V, sc x 12, V, sc x 14 (14th sc is in same st as 1st sc of current round), sl st to 1st
sc of current round —60 st.
(If you prefer to use conventional crochet pattern terminology, abbreviated version is here and
full text is here.)
Switch to larger 6.00mm hook.
R10: Don’t turn. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc st), 2 dc in sl st from previous round, JSS, TRIPLE,
JSS, TRIPLE, JSS, DOUBLE, ch1, JSS, 3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1,
TRIPLE, ch2, 3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, TRIPLE, ch2, 3 tc in same

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st, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, TRIPLE, JSS, ch1, sl st to top chain of beg ch-3; bind
off —68 st.

Picot Border
With the squares all attached together, next step is to finish the edges and add some structure
to the scarf by adding a border.
Notes: For the picot round, R3, you will be doing a series of {sc, sc, picot} sets except at the
corners where there should be a picot in the stitch before the corner st, then 3 sc in the corner
st, then a picot in the stitch after the corner st. So, depending on where you start along an
edge, you may need to add a picotor a sc, picot before starting your first full set of {sc, sc,
picot}. Also, if the number of stitches between the two corner stitches along an edge:
is evenly divisible by 3, then add an extra sc into two of the {sc, sc picot}sets somewhere
along the edge;
has a remainder of 1, then no extra sc are needed;
has a remainder of 2, add an extra sc into one of the {sc, sc, picot} sets.
***
Easy way (but I didn’t like how the border dipped in slightly at every spot where two squares
joined):
Start with background color (pink), 6.00mm hook (I think, or maybe I used the 5.00mm
one…) and joined squares:
R1: sc all the way around the scarf, doing 3 sc in each ch-2 sp corner, sl st to 1st sc of current
round.
R2: ch 1, turn, sc all the way around the scarf, doing 3 sc at each corner, sl st to 1st sc of
current round.
R3: ch 1, turn. Including the exceptions and additions as explained in picot note above, {sc,
sc, picot} all the way around, doing 3 sc at each corner, sl st to 1st sc of current round
***
Slightly more complex way (that gives a smoother/straighter border because of the increased
stitch heights at every spot where two squares join; see photo below)

Start with background color (pink), 6.00mm hook (I think, or maybe I used the 5.00mm
one…) and joined squares:
R1: Starting with 1 sc in the ch-2 sp at a corner heading toward a short edge, sc all along the
short edge, 3 sc in the ch 2 corner space, 15 sc, {hdc, dc, hdc, 14 sc*}, repeat {} until you
reach next corner, 3 sc in the ch 2 corner space, sc along the short edge, 3 sc in the ch 2 corner
sp, 15 sc, {hdc, dc, hdc, 14 sc*}, repeat {} until you reach the corner, 1 sc in ch2 corner sp, sl
st to 1st sc of current round.
*You might have to do fewer or more sc, depending on how you joined your squares.
R2: ch 1, turn, sc all the way around, doing 3 sc at each corner, sl st to 1st sc of current round.

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R3: ch 1, turn. Adding extra sc if needed as explained in picot note above, {sc, sc, picot} all
the way along, doing 3 sc at each corner, sl st to 1st sc of current round. Bind off.

Finishing
Weave in all ends and block the scarf. (If you’ve never blocked before, Rachel at crochetspot
has some good info to get you started.) Then add the facial features and accessories and
you’re done!
***
One of the keys to really making this look like Hello Kitty is correct placement of eyes, nose,
and whiskers. Hopefully the gridlines on the image below are helpful. The eyes are really low,
in the bottom half of her face, each about ¼ of the way in from the sides. And her nose is even
lower, about ¼ of the way from the bottom edge.

So, using black yarn in a yarn needle, embroider eyes and whiskers. Embroider nose using
yellow yarn.
In order to make a face on both sides, I made the eyes and nose by putting 3-4 stitches on top
of each other, allowing two of the stitches to curve outward to create the oval shape and then
tying each one off individually and trying to hide the knot under the stitches on the “back”
side. For the whiskers, I did one long stitch for each, tied a knot on the “back” side, slid the
knot as far to the outside as I could, i.e. off of her face, onto the outline, and then dabbed
some FrayCheck/fabric glue onto the knot before cutting the tails off really short.
I will warn you – this was the hardest part for me and at least one other person: getting the
eyes to be the same size and evenly aligned, getting the “back” to look at least half-way
decent, hiding the knots on the back… I pulled out all my work and started over a number of
times. But it is possible.I’ll take pictures of the next face I do.
***
Now for the flower for her ear…

With flower color yarn (yellow):

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R1: Start with magic ring (or alternate method: ch 4-6 and join into ring with sl st), ch 1 (does
not count as st), 5 sc into magic ring (or plain chain ring), sl st to 1st sc (counts as a st).
R2: {sl st, ch 3, sl st} in BLO of each st. [6 petals].
After last sl st, cut yarn, pull through and tie to starting tail. Sew onto Hello Kitty face near
right ear using white yarn so stitches don’t show on the other side. (For a one-sided
application, I would have just used one of the yarn tails.)
***
I tried two bows and didn’t like either one. But they can’t be that hard to make. Any ideas? : )

Join As You Go
As mentioned earlier, this pattern joins the squares as they’re finished, not after the fact.
Essentially, you substitute a slip stitch for a chain stitch along sides you want to join, inserting
your hook into the corresponding chain space of another square before completing the slip
stitch. For the scarf, always join along the longer edge of the square. The photos below show
joining along the third edge; if you’re attaching a Hello Kitty square along its top edge, you
will have to join right away along the first edge. In that case, do steps 6-16, then loop back to
the beginning.
Here’s a photo tutorial of how I did that:
1. Finish last 3 tc shell of current edge. Match up current square to previous square.

2. Insert hook, front to back, through ch 2 space at corner of previous square.

3. Yarn over…

4. …and pull loop through to create joining slip stitch.

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5. Chain 1 to finish corner (not shown in photos).

6. Crochet first dc shell of current edge.

7. Insert hook, front to back, through next ch 1 space on previous square.

8. Yarn over…

9. …and pull loop through to create joining slip stitch.

10. Crochet next dc shell.

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11. Repeat 7-10 until you reach ch 2 space at next corner.

12. Chain 1 to finish edge/start corner (not shown in photos).

13. Insert hook, front to back, through ch 2 space at corner.

14. Yarn over…

15. …and pull loop through to create joining slip stitch.

16. Continue around remaining edges, starting with a

tc shell in the ch 2 corner space.

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Finished Edge, joined as you went!

Hello Kitty face

Beg: With CC ch 7
R1: Work 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 sts, work 4 sc in last st. Working on
opposite side of beg ch, sc in next 4 sts, join with sl st to 1st sc.
R2: Ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, 2 sc in next 3 sts, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sts, sc in next 4 sts,
join with sl st.
R3: Ch 1, 2 sc in same sp, sc in next sp, (2 sc in next st, sc in next st)3 times, sc in next 4 sts,
(2 sc in next st, sc in next st)4 times, sc in next 4 sts, join with sl st.
R4: Ch 1, 2 sc in same st, sc in next 2 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts)3 times, sc in next 4
sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts)4 times, sc in next 4 sts, join with sl st..
R5: Ch1, 2 sc in same sp, sc in next 3 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts)3 times, sc in next 4
sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts)4 times, sc in next 4 sts, join with sl st.
R6: Ch1, 2 sc in same sp, sc in next 4 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts)3 times, sc in next 4
sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts)4 times, sc in next 4 sts.

Ears

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Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, ch1 and turn, work sc dec 2 times, sc in next st, sc dec in next st. Ch 1
and turn, work sc decrease 2 times. Ch 1 and turn, sc dec, fasten off. (Right ear made)
Leaving 6 sc in between ears, join yarn with sl st and work left ear the same.

Bow
With hot pink or fuschia,Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (Ch 1 and turn,
sc in each st across)3 times more. Using a piece of yarn, gather in the middle and tie a knot.
Hot glue to kitty's left ear.
With black felt cut out 2 eyes and hot glue them to face. Using the gold felt cut out a nose
and hot glue to face. Use embroidery thread and sew whiskers to the face. When finished
sew face to the front of bag, but before completing the attatchment stuff the face with fiberfill,
then finish sewing.

Straps (make 2)
Ch 66, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 63 chs, 3 sc in next ch, working on opposite side
of beg chain sc in next 63 ch, 1 sc in same st as first 2 sc, join with sl st and fasten off. After
both straps are made sew them on the back of the purse according to where you want them.

To Make Cord
Ch76, working in back side of ch, sl st in each st across, fasten off. Starting at the middle
front of the purse, weave cord between shells on rnd 28. For older kids you can place beads
at each of the ends, I wouldn't recommend it for smaller children.

FLOWER
Color A: Gold
Color B: Fuschia or hot pink
Beg: With color A Ch 5 join with sl st to make loop.
R1: Ch 1, work 10 sc in loop, join with sl st. Finish off.
R2: Join color B with sl st to any sc * Ch4, [yo twice and insert hook in same st, yo and pull
up a loop, (yo and pull through 2 loops on hook)twice]2 times. Yo twice and insert
hook in next st, yo and pull up a loop, (yo and pull through 2 loops on hook)twice, yo
twice and insert hook in same st, yo and pull up a loop, (yo and pull through 2 loops
on hook)twice, yo and pull through all 4 loops on hook, ch4, sl st in next st (Pedal
Made).* Repeat from * to * around. Finish off, 5 Pedals made all together.

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Crochet Minnie Mouse Purse

Supplies: G and H hook, Red Heart Black and Baby Pink yarn
Dimensions: 6 in X 6 in
R1: Make 2, G hook, Work 11 dc in a Magic Circle, sl st on top of the chain 3. -11 dc
R2. ch 3, (Counts as first Dc), dc in same st. as joining, 2dc in each dc around. join with sl st
on top of chain 3. -22 dc
R3. ch 3, (Counts as first Dc), *2dc in next dc, dc in the next dc, Repeat from *around, join
with sl st. -33 dc
R4. ch 3, (Counts as first Dc), dc in the next dc, 2dc in the next dc, *dc in the next two dc, 2dc
in the next dc, Repeat from *around, join with sl st. -44 dc
R5. ch 3, (Counts as first Dc), dc in the next two dc, 2dc in the next dc, *dc in the next 3
dc, 2dc in the next dc. Repeat from * around, join with sl st. -55 dc
R6. ch 3, (Counts as first Dc), dc in the 2 next three dc, 2dc in the next dc, *dc in the next
4 dc, 2dc in the next dc. Repeat from * around, join with sl st. -66 dc
Ears: G hook, Make 4
R1: Work 10 dc in the Magic circle, sl st -10 dc
R2: ch 3, (Counts as first Dc), dc in same st. as joining, 2dc in each dc around. join with sl st
on top of chain 3. -20 dc
R3. ch 3, (Counts as first Dc), *2dc in next dc, dc in the next dc, Repeat from *around, Leave
the last 4 dc unworked, -26 dc
Assembly: Now Take the Big Circle and Attach the Small ear circles (the 4 dc unworked side)
on top of the Circle, 9 dc apart with black yarn and yarn needle. Now sl st with pink yarn, sc
around the big circle with the ears attached all around both Minnie Attached Ears and Circles.
Now you need to attach the two pieces together after you did the border to create the purse.
Take your yarn needle and 60 inches of pink yarn. Sew the Big Circles together with the Ears
by sewing in and out of the sc, when you get to the ears, leave 5 sc unworked toward the
center and 9 sc across (the opening of the purse) and the other side, leave 5 sc unworked
going up the other ear.
Bow: G hook
Chain 20, work sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and each sc across, -19 sc

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R1-10: sc in each back loop across -19, *Repeat for a total of 10 rounds. Rnd 11: sc around
the edge of the bow. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Take Yarn over the middle of the bow at least 10 times and fasten off. Sew the bow on top of
the purse between the ears.
Strap:
H hook
Chain 75, hdc in the 3rd chain from the hook and each chain across, sl st. Attach the Strap
inside the ear opening on both sides.

Peacock Bag

Materials: Yarn, I use SCM Catania coton 1,75 oz = 137 yds (jade, purple, lilac, fuksia), 1
Button, Scrap of fabric, Crochet hook ( I use a 3 mm for my yarn here)
Stitches: (American English)
Instructions: Make this part 2 times; front and back Start with color jade.
Start each row with chain 2. It doesn't count as a stitch.
Jade. Make a magic ring or chain 4 and close with sl. st.
Row 1: chain 2, 12dc , chain 2, turn
Row 2: work in back loop , dc, in de next 10 sts , 2 dc, at the end 1 dc, (22sts) chain 2 , turn
Row 3: work in front loop, 1 dc , * 2dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, repeat total 10 times from
*, at the end dc , 1 dc, (32 sts) ,
Change color.

Row 4 (purple). : chain 2, turn, work in back loop., 1 dc in first dc, chain 1, skip 1 sts. , * 3 dc
in next dc, ch 1, skip 2 sts., repeat from * till last 2 dc, skip 1 dc, dc, in dc at the end. Chain
2, turn.

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Row 5 : work in front loop. 1 dc in first dc, ch 1, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next dc, ch 1, *skip 3 sts, 5
dc in next sts, ch1, repeat from *, till 3 sts left, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in dc at the end.
Change color, chain 2, turn.

Row 6 : (lilac) work in back loop, dc in first dc, ch 1,skip 3 sts, 7 dc in next sts, ch1, * skip 5
sts, 7 dc in next sts, ch 1, repeat from * till 4 sts left, skip 3 sts , dc in dc at the end.
Change color, ch2 , turn.

Row 7 : (fuksia) work in front loop, 1 dc in first dc, ch1, skip 4 sts, 9 dc in next sts, ch1, *
skip 7 sts, 9 dc in next sts, ch 1, repeat from * till 5 sts left, skip 4 sts, dc in dc at the end of
row.
Fasten off . Weave in al the ends.
Make this part 2 times.

Join front and back:

With back and front facing. Color jade . Start at the first feather ( picture 6)
Join parts together with sc.
After first feather, turn yarn at back side of front part.
Crochet only at the front part : ch 2, sl st in chain of row lilac colored,
ch 2, sl st in chain of row purple colored, ch 2, sl st in chain of second purple row,
ch 2, sl st in row jade colored.

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Now we go back to the top : ch 2, sl st in chain of purple row, ch 2, sl st in purple row, ch 2, sl

st in lilac row, ch 2 and join second feather, front and back side, together (picture 7)

Repeat till all feathers are ready. Fasten off.

Attach Fuksia and make one row sc ; only the front side. (picture 10)
Lining:

Fold a piece of fabric with right side facing.

Cut around the base of the purse, leaving a half-inche border for top side.

Fold and sew top side (picture 11)

Sew the lining pieces together. Leave top side open.
Flap:
Make a magic ring (or 4 ch and close with sl st)
Round 1 : ch 2 , 2 dc in the ring , ch 1, *3 dc, ch 1 , repeat from * 2 times more, close with sl
st.
Round 2 : ch 2, dc till corner stitch (ch of round 1). In corner *dc, next dc :work into first loop
of dc you just made, next dc also in first loop of first dc of corner, end with a dc into corner
stitch * that made total 4 dc into corner dc in each dc of round 1 till corner and repeat from *
to *. Repeat till ch2 and close with sl st.
Round 3 : Attach new color (lilac ) and same as round 2.
Round 4: Attach new color (purple ) and same as round 2.
Round 5: Attach new color (lilac ) and same as round 2.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Shoulder strap:
Chain 130 Turn, sc in each ch.
Change color : Turn and Picot stitch : * 3 sc, ch3 and sc into first ch, repeat from * till the
end, make picot stitch also at the other side of strap.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.

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Flower: 2x (Jade and Fuksia) Ch 4 and close with sl st.*ch 5, sl st in ring repeat from* 4
more times
Into ch5 : 6 sc . repeat till you finish 5 petals.
Finishing:
Folt flap on the back side . Start in middle of back side and fasten flap and back with sl st.
(see picture below)

When you are on the front side make sc till front corner, ch 10 (button hole) join in same
stitch and sc till you are on the next corner, and join flap and backside together with sl st. (see
picture below).

Attach shoulder strap.

Attach button, flowers ( fuksia flower: middle of back side and jade flower on the front of the
flap)
Insert lining into outer bag, sew lining with little stitches.

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