PU R PUREA SWEATER

by Teti Lutsak

The pattern is for private use only. tetisknitgarden teti lutsak tetilutsak@gmail.com
Copyright belongs to Teti Lutsak.

INTRODUCTION

SIZES
Of all the Nutiden colourways this one must
be my favourite so far. It spent more than a
The pattern is written for nine sizes:
year on my shelf before I knew what kind
1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
of special garment it should become.
to fit 74 (84, 94, 104, 114) (124, 134, 144, 154)
Purpurea is no regular cable sweater. With a cm // 29 (33, 37, 41, 45) (49, 53, 57, 61) in bust
beautifully accentuated mock (turtle) neck, a well circumference with ca. 10-18 cm (4-7 in) of
fitting round yoke with a pattern of growing cables positive ease and a finished bust circumference
and a body with super practical side slits, it is a of ca. 92 (96, 110, 118, 128) (136, 150, 158, 172)
very modern yet potentially timeless garment. cm // 36.25 (37.75, 43.25, 46.5, 50.5) (53.5, 59,
62.25, 67.75) in.
The pullover is knit top-down in the round
and split into two halves to be worked flat at The sample is shown in size 2 on a 160 cm
the waist line. Side slits are optional and the (5.3 ft) tall model with ca. 84–66–94 cm
amount of positive ease can be easily adjusted (33–26–39 in) body measurements.
before the separation of the body and sleeves.
For more of the finished garment measurements,
The pattern also comes in three body length please refer to the schematic on page 2.
versions: cropped, slightly cropped and regular.
Middle of the front/back length excl. the turtleneck and short row shaping:
43 (44, 45, 47, 48) (49, 51, 52, 53) cm // 17 (17.5, 18, 18.5, 19) (19.25, 20, 20.25, 20.75) in

YARN

ca. 385 (395, 440, 480, 525) (555, 620, 645, 700) g NEEDLES AND NOTIONS
of Nutiden yarn from Honer Och Eir, 100% Swedish
wool with approx. 500 m (546 yds) per 100 g 3.0 mm (US 2.5), 3.5 mm (US 4) and
plate, held double, shown in colourway Oxalis; 4.0 mm (US 6) circular needles;
spare cables, spare circular needles or scrap yarn
or an estimated yardage of 963 (988, 1100, 1200, to keep stitches on hold;
1313) (1388, 1550, 1613, 1750) m // 1051 (1078, a few stitch markers;
1201, 1310, 1433) (1515, 1693, 1761, 1911) yds
a 4.0 mm (US 6) cable needle (optional);
of any other DK/worsted weight yarn with a
a tapestry needle or a crochet hook to weave in
matching gauge for a cropped version. Make sure
the ends and for bind-off.
you have enough extra yarn if you want to make a
longer version.

My sample is worked with 2 strands of unspun yarn GAUGE

(Nutiden) held together. It did turn out quite bulky,
giving me a sort of Teddy Bear feeling. Some of the 16 sts & 24 rnds in 10 cm (4 in) measured
Nutiden colors are more gentle/light, others are over stockinette stitch worked in the round
more sturdy/heavy. Oxalis was on the heavier side. on 4.0 mm (US 6) needles after blocking;

So if you have a heavier unspun yarn (that also 20 sts & 24 rnds in 10 cm (4 in) measured over
includes Plotulopi) and want a lighter version cable pattern of the body worked in the round
with more drape, think about using 1 strand of on 4.0 mm (US 6) needles after blocking.
that yarn held together with a strand of lace/ Adjust the needle sizes if necessary to obtain the
light fingering weight yarn to get the gauge. correct gauge.

2
CONSTRUCTION AND NOTES

kx/px — knit/purl x sts;

The turtleneck starts from a tubular cast-
on, is worked with a simple 1x1 ribbing k2tog — knit 2 sts together as if they were one
and the neckline is shaped with short rows. (right leaning 1 st decrease);
The double knit band accentuates the LH/RH — left/right hand (needle);
transition from the neck to the yoke.
m1p — make 1 left purl — insert LH
The yoke is worked in a pattern of growing needle, from front to back, under strand
cables with increases integrated into the of yarn that runs between next st on LH
cable pattern. At the bottom of the yoke at needle and last st on RH needle; purl this
the point of separation for the body and st through back loop (1 st increase);
sleeves, you can adjust the amount of ease
m1L — make 1 left knit — insert LH needle, from
by adjusting the number of sts picked up
front to back, under strand of yarn that runs
for the underarms. These will form the side
between next st on LH needle and last st on
panels and the side slits. Make sure to keep
RH needle; knit this st through back loop (1 st
an even number of sts on the side panels.
increase);
The body is worked in the round till the side slits.
p2tog — purl 2 sts together as if they were
At about waist level (3 different length options are
one (right leaning 1 st decrease);
provided) the body is split into two even halves
pall — purl all sts to EOR;
and worked further down flat. By moving the side
R/Rnd/SR — row/round/short row;
slits down or adding extra length after the split,
rep — repeat;
the length of the body can be further adjusted.
RS/WS — right/wrong side of the work;
There is also an option to skip the split. In RSM/LSM — right/left shoulder marker;
that case, continue working in the round
twisting the sts on the side panels into cables. sl1yb — slip 1 st purlwise with yarn behind;
The side panel sts on the slits are worked sl1yf — slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in front;
with a ribbing pattern of elongated slipped ssk — slip the next 2 sts, one by one, knitwise,
stitches, which might in a longer version pull insert the tip of the left needle, from left to
the edges upwards. To avoid that, consider right, into the fronts of those 2 sts and knit them
working the edges with a regular 1x1 ribbing. together (left leaning 1 st decrease);
st(s) — stitch(es);
The sleeves are worked top-down in the round
with gradual decreases towards cuffs. The cuffs w&t — wrap and turn in 1x1 ribbing — at the
and hem are worked with a simple 1x1 ribbing end of the short row before a Purl, with the
and bound off with a tubular bind-off. You can yarn at the back, move next st purlwise to the
take a closer look at my sample and discover RH needle, bring the yarn to the front, return
the design process in this podcast episode. the last st off the RH needle to the LH needle
and turn your work, bring the yarn in front
and start working the following row according
ABBREVIATIONS AND TECHNIQUES to the previously established pattern;

at the end of the short row before a Knit,

1-1LC — slip 1 st onto a cn and hold
keep the yarn in the front, move the next st
in front, k1, then k1 from cn;
purlwise to the RH needle, turn your work,
1-1RC — slip 1 st onto a cn and hold in back, k1,
bring the yarn to the front, move the first st
then k1 from cn;
to the RH needle, bring the yarn to the back
A-BLC— slip A st(s) onto a cn and hold in front, and start working the following row according
kB, then kA from cn; to the previously established pattern;
A-BRC — slip B st(s) onto a cn and hold in back, — the short rows could also be worked as German
kA, then kB from cn; short rows or Japanese short rows.
BOR/EOR — beginning/end of the round; wx/wall — work x/all sts according to
ca. — circa — approximately; the previously established pattern;
cn — cable needle; yo — yarn over.

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TURTLENECK (12, 14, 14, 16) sts to RSM, w&t.

SR3 (RS): work all till 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) (10,
Using a tubular cast-on or any other stretchy
12, 12, 12) sts to previous wrap, w&t.
cast-on method of your choice with 3.0 mm
(US 2.5) needles cast on a total of 84 (84, SR4 (WS): work all till 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) (10,
92, 92, 108) (108, 120, 120, 128) sts. 12, 12, 12) sts to previous wrap, w&t.
Work flat the first two set up rnds for SR5 (RS): work all to BOR and at the same time
the *k1, p1* ribbing. Then join to work in pick up short row wraps and work them together
the round and place the BOR marker. with their corresponding sts, hiding the wraps
on the WS, then move to the next section.
Rnd 1 — Rnd 18 (ca. 6 cm (2.25 in)):
*k1, p1; rep from * to EOR.

In the last Rnd: DOUBLE BAND

w21 (21, 23, 23, 27) (27, 30, 30, 32), place RSM,
w42 (42, 46, 46, 54) (54, 60, 60, 64), place LSM, Rnd 1: *k1, p1; rep from * to EOR
w21 (21, 23, 23, 27) (27, 30, 30, 32) to EOR. and at the same time pick up the remaining
short row wraps and work them together with
Continue working *k1, p1* ribbing
their corresponding sts. Remove RSM/LSM.
through the short rows.
Rnd 2: *k1, yo; rep from * to EOR
(doubling the original number of sts).
SHAPING THE BACK OF THE
Rnd 3: *sl1yb, p1; rep from * to EOR.
NECK WITH SHORT ROWS
Rnd 4: *k1, sl1yf; rep from * to EOR.
Rnd 5: *sl1yb, p1; rep from * to EOR.
SR1 (RS): from the BOR in the middle of
the back, work till 3 sts to RSM, w&t. Rnd 6: *k1, sl1yf; rep from * to EOR.
Rnd 7: *sl1yb, p1; rep from * to EOR.
SR2 (WS): work to BOR, then Rnd 8: p2tog to EOR
work till 3 sts to LSM, w&t. (back to the original stitch count).
SR3 (RS) and all RS rows
till SR7 (7, 7, 9, 9) (9, 11, 11, 11):
work all till 3 sts to previous wrap, w&t. YOKE

SR4 (WS) and all WS rows Switch to 4.0 mm (US 6) needles and
till SR8 (8, 8, 10, 10) (10, 12, 12, 12): follow the Yoke Pattern chart on page 9
work all till 3 sts to previous wrap, w&t. and/or further written instructions.

SR9 (9, 9, 11, 11) (11, 13, 13, 13) (RS): work Rnd 1: *k2, yo; rep from * to EOR.
all to BOR and move to the next section. You will have a total of 126 (126, 138, 138, 162)
(162, 180, 180, 192) sts.

Rnd 2 — Rnd 4 (3 rnds): *k2,

SHAPING THE FRONT OF THE
p1; rep from * to EOR.
NECK WITH SHORT ROWS
Rnd 5: *1-1LC, p1, 1-1RC, p1; rep from * to EOR.
You can skip this part if you’d prefer
Rnd 6 — Rnd 8 (3 rnds): *k2,
to have a bigger difference between
p1; rep from * to EOR.
the front and back length.
Rnd 9: *k2, p1, m1p; rep from * to EOR.
SR1 (RS): work till 10 (10, 10, 10, 12) (12,
You will have a total of 168 (168, 184, 184, 216)
14, 14, 16) sts to LSM and at the same
(216, 240, 240, 256) sts.
time pick up short row wraps and work
them together with their corresponding Rnd 10: *1-1LC, p2, 1-1RC, p2; rep from * to EOR.
sts, hiding the wraps on the WS, w&t.
Rnd 11 — Rnd 14 (4 rnds): *k2,
SR2 (WS): work till 10 (10, 10, 10, 12) p2; rep from * to EOR.

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Rnd 15: *1-1LC, p2, 1-1RC, p2; rep from * to EOR. Rnd 57: *3-2LC, p2, 3-2RC, p2; rep from * to EOR.

Rnd 16 — Rnd 20 (5 rnds): *k2, SIZE 6: Rnd 58 — Rnd 59 (2 rnds);

p2; rep from * to EOR. SIZE 7: Rnd 58 — Rnd 63 (6 rnds);
SIZE 8: Rnd 58 — Rnd 65 (8 rnds);
Rnd 21: *1-1LC, p2, 1-1RC, p2; rep from * to EOR.
— *k5, p2; rep from * to EOR and move to the
Rnd 22: *k2, p2; rep from * to EOR. next section.

Rnd 23: *k1, m1L, k1, p2; rep from * to EOR. SIZE 9 ONLY
You will have a total of 210 (210, 230, 230, 270)
Rnd 58 — Rnd 65 (8 rnds):*k5,
(270, 300, 300, 320) sts.
p2; rep from * to EOR.
Rnd 24 — Rnd 29 (6 rnds): *k3,
Rnd 66: *3-2LC, p2, 3-2RC, p2; rep from * to EOR.
p2; rep from * to EOR.
Rnd 67 — Rnd 68 (2 rnds): *k5, p2; rep from
Rnd 30: *2-1LC, p2, 2-1RC, p2; rep from * to EOR.
* to EOR and move to the next section.
Rnd 31: *k3, p2; rep from * to EOR.

Rnd 32: *k2, m1L, k1, p2, k1, m1L,

SEPARATING BODY AND SLEEVES
k2, p2; rep from * to EOR.
You will have a total of 252 (252, 276, 276, 324)
SIZES — (2, —, —, 5) (—, —, 8, —) ONLY
(324, 360, 360, 384) sts.
Rnd 1: unravel 1 st and move
Rnd 33 — Rnd 38 (6 rnds): *k4,
the BOR 1 st to the right,
p2; rep from * to EOR.
● work — (43, —, —, 57) (—, —, 64, —) sts of
Rnd 39: *2-2LC, p2, 2-2RC, the back twisting the cables according to the
p2; rep from * to EOR. previously established pattern (3-2LC, 3-2RC),
● temporarily bind off or place on hold the
Rnd 40: *k4, p2; rep from * to EOR. next — (61, —, —, 75) (—, —, 82, —) sts for the
Rnd 41: *k2, m1L, k2, p2; rep from * to EOR. right sleeve,
You will have a total of 294 (294, 322, 322, 378) ● cast on extra — (10, —, —, 14) (—, —, 30, —)
(378, 420, 420, 448) sts. sts for the underarm
— please note, that by adjusting the number
SIZE 1: Rnd 42 — Rnd 45 (4 rnds); of sts of the underarms, you can adjust
SIZE 2: Rnd 42 — Rnd 47 (6 rnds); the amount of positive ease in the bust if
— *k5, p2; rep from * to EOR and move to the necessary —
next section. ● work the next — (86, —, —, 114) (—, —, 128,
—) sts of the front,
● temporarily bind off or place on hold the
SIZES — (—, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9) next — (61, —, —, 75) (—, —, 82, —) sts for the
left sleeve,
Rnd 42 — Rnd 47 (6 rnds): *k5,
● cast on extra — (10, —, —, 14) (—, —, 30, —)
p2; rep from * to EOR.
sts for the underarm,
Rnd 48: *3-2LC, p2, 3-2RC, p2; rep from * to EOR. ● and work the remaining — (43, —, —, 57)
(—, —, 64, —) sts of the back to EOR.
SIZE 3: Rnd 49 — Rnd 50 (2 rnds); You will have a total of — (192, —, —, 256)
SIZE 4: Rnd 49 — Rnd 54 (6 rnds); (—, —, 316, —) sts for the body.
SIZE 5: Rnd 49 — Rnd 56 (8 rnds);
— *k5, p2; rep from * to EOR and move to the
next section. SIZES 1 (—, 3, 4, —) (6, 7, —, 9) ONLY

Rnd 1: unravel 1 st and move

SIZES — (—, —, —, —) (6, 7, 8, 9)
the BOR 1 st to the right,
● work 43 (—, 50, 50, —) (57, 64, —, 71) sts
Rnd 49 — Rnd 56 (8 rnds): *k5, of the back as they appear (no cable twists in
p2; rep from * to EOR. this rnd for the sizes mentioned),

5
● temporarily bind off or place on hold the Rnd 12 (increase by 1 st on each of the cables):
next 61 (—, 61, 61, —) (75, 82, —, 82) sts for p1, (k3, m1L, k2, p2, k2, m1L, k3, p2) to the
the right sleeve, underarm, k6 (10, 10, 18, 14) (22, 22, 30, 30),
● cast on an extra 6 (—, 10, 18, —) (22, 22, —, (p2, k3, m1L, k2, p2, k2, m1L, k3) till 2 sts to the
30) sts for the underarm, underarm, p2, k6 (10, 10, 18, 14) (22, 22, 30,
— please note, that by adjusting the number 30), (p2, k3, m1L, k2, p2, k2, m1L, k3) till 1 st to
of sts of the underarms, you can adjust EOR, p1.
the amount of positive ease in the bust if You will have a total of 208 (216, 248, 264, 288)
necessary — (304, 336, 352, 384) sts.
● work the next 86 (—, 100, 100, —) (114,
Rnd 13 — Rnd 19 (7 rnds): wall.
128, —, 142) sts of the front as they appear,
● temporarily bind off or keep on hold the Rnd 20: p1, twist cables (4-2LC, p2, 4-2RC,
next 61 (—, 61, 61, —) (75, 82, —, 82) sts for p2) to the underarm, k6 (10, 10, 18, 14) (22,
the left sleeve, 22, 30, 30), twist cables to the opposite
● cast on an extra 6 (—, 10, 18, —) (22, 22, —, underarm; k6 (10, 10, 18, 14) (22, 22, 30,
30) sts for the underarm, 30), twist cables till 1 st to EOR, p1.
● and work the remaining 43 (—, 50, 50, —)
Rnd 21 — Rnd 24 (4 rnds): wall.
(57, 64, —, 71) sts of the back to EOR.
You will have a total of 184 (—, 220, 236, —) By now you will have ca. 10 cm (4 in) of
(272, 300, —, 344) sts for the body. body length. For a cropped version with
the side slits (like the one shown on the
pictures), move to the next section.
BODY
For a slightly cropped version and ca. 14 cm
SIZES 1 (—, 3, 4, —) (6, 7, —, 9) ONLY
(5.5 in) before the side slits work as follows.
Please note, that the side slits look best at the
Next 2 (—, 6, 2, —) (6, 2, —, 6) rnds (till the waist level, thus accentuating its narrowest part.
next rnd with cable twists) work all sts as
they appear, knit all sts of the underarms: Rnd 25 — Rnd 29 (5 rnds): wall.
— p1, (k5, p2) to the underarm, k6 (—, 10, Rnd 30: twist cables according to the
18, —) (22, 22, —, 30), (p2, k5) till 2 sts to the previously established pattern.
underarm, p2, k6 (—, 10, 18, —) (22, 22, —, 30),
(p2, k5) till 1 st to EOR, p1. Rnd 31 — Rnd 34 (4 rnds): wall.

In the next Rnd: p1, twist cables according For a regular length and ca. 18 cm (7.0 in) before
to the previously established pattern the side slits, rep as in Rnd 25 — Rnd 34.
to the underarm, k6 (—, 10, 18, —) (22,
22, —, 30), twist cables to the opposite
underarm; k6 (—, 10, 18, —) (22, 22, —, SIDE SLITS
30), twist cables till 1 st to EOR, p1.
In the next Rnd: (work all as they appear,
twist the sts of the underarms into big cables):
ALL SIZES p1, (k6, p2) to the underarm,
3-3LC (5-5LC, 5-5LC, 9-9LC, 7-7LC) (11-11LC,
Next 9 rnds after the cable twist (work all as
11-11LC, 15-15LC, 15-15LC),
they appear, knit all sts of the underarms):
(p2, k6) till 2 sts to the underarm, p2,
p1, (k5, p2) to the underarm, k6 (10, 10, 18,
3-3RC (5-5RC, 5-5RC, 9-9RC, 7-7RC)
14) (22, 22, 30, 30), (p2, k5) till 2 sts to the
(11-11RC, 11-11RC, 15-15RC, 15-15RC),
underarm, p2, k6 (10, 10, 18, 14) (22, 22, 30,
(p2, k6) till 1 st to EOR, p1.
30), (p2, k5) till 1 sts to EOR, p1.
Please note, that if you decide to skip the
Rnd 10: twist cables according to the
side slits, you can twist all the sts of the
previously established pattern (from here on
underarms into big cables as described
there are 9 rnds between cable twists).
and keep working in the round, regularly
Rnd 11: wall. twisting those cables in every 10th rnd.

6
BACK HALF R26 (WS): wall.
Add more rows if necessary to adjust the length,
R1 (RS): starting from the BOR at the otherwise, move to the next section.
middle of the back, remove the BOR and
work all as they appear to the underarm,
(k1, sl1yf) 1 (2, 2, 4, 3) (5, 5, 7, 7) time(s), k1 HEM
and turn the work.
Switch to 3.5 mm (US 4) needles for the hem
R2 (WS): sl1yf, (p1, sl1yf) 1 (2, 2, 4, 3) (5,
ribbing. If you skipped the side slits, make sure
5, 7, 7) time(s), work all as they appear to
you have an even number of sts and work the
the underarm, (sl1yf, p1) 1 (2, 2, 4, 3) (5,
hem with simple 1x1 ribbing in the round.
5, 7, 7) times, k1 and turn the work.
R1 (RS): sl1yf, (sl1yf, k1) 1 (2, 2, 4, 3) (5, 5,
You will have a total of 104 (108,
7, 7) time(s), *p2, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1;
124, 132, 144) (152, 168, 176, 192)
rep from * till 2 sts to the slit panel, p2,
sts for the back half and the same
amount of sts on hold for the front. (k1, sl1yf) 1 (2, 2, 4, 3) (5, 5, 7, 7) times,
k1 and turn the work.
Make sure to work the sts of the slit panels
slightly looser than the regular sts to avoid R2 (WS): sl1yf, (p1, sl1yf) 1 (2,
pulled up edges, or replace the pattern 2, 4, 3) (5, 5, 7, 7) time(s),
described with a simple 1x1 ribbing. *k2, (p1, k1) 3 times, p1; rep from * till 2 sts to
the slit panel, k2, (sl1yf, p1) 1 (2, 2, 4, 3) (5, 5, 7,
R3 (RS): sl1yf, (sl1yf, k1) 1 (2, 2, 4, 3) (5, 7) times, k1 and turn the work.
5, 7, 7) time(s), work all as they appear to
the slit panel, (k1, sl1yf) 1 (2, 2, 4, 3) (5, R3 (RS) — R12 (WS) (10 rows): wall.
5, 7, 7) times, k1 and turn the work. Bind off using a standard bind-off or any other
method of your choice, break the yarn and
R4 (WS): sl1yf, (p1, sl1yf) 1 (2, 2, 4, 3) (5, weave in the ends.
5, 7, 7) time(s), work all as they appear to
the slit panel, (sl1yf, p1) 1 (2, 2, 4, 3) (5,
5, 7, 7) times, k1 and turn the work. FRONT HALF
R5 (RS): wall as in R3 and at the same time
twist cables according to the previously With 4.0 mm (US 6) needles, return to the
established pattern (4-2LC, 4-2RC). sts left on hold for the front half and, joining
the yarn on the RS, work as follows:
R6 (WS): wall as in R4.
R1 (RS): sl1yf, (sl1yf, k1) 1 (2, 2, 4, 3) (5,
R7 (RS) (increase by 1 st on 5, 7, 7) time(s), work all as they appear to
each of the cables): the slit panel, (k1, sl1yf) 1 (2, 2, 4, 3) (5,
sl1yf, (sl1yf, k1) 1 (2, 2, 4, 3) (5, 5, 7, 7) time(s), 5, 7, 7) times, k1 and turn the work.
p2, (k4, m1L, k2, p2, k2, m1L, k4, p2) to the
R2 (WS): sl1yf, (p1, sl1yf) 1 (2, 2, 4, 3) (5,
slit panel, (k1, sl1yf) 1 (2, 2, 4, 3) (5, 5, 7, 7)
5, 7, 7) time(s), work all as they appear to
times, k1 and turn the work.
the slit panel, (sl1yf, p1) 1 (2, 2, 4, 3) (5,
You will have a total of 116 (120, 138, 146,
5, 7, 7) times, k1 and turn the work.
160) (168, 186, 194, 212) sts.
From R3 (RS) follow the same
R8 (WS) — R14 (WS) (7 rows): wall.
instructions as written for the Back.
R15 (RS): wall and at the same time
twist cables according to the previously
established pattern (4-3LC, 4-3RC). SLEEVES

R16 (WS) — R24 (WS) (9 rows): wall. With 4.0 mm (US 6) needles, return to the
R25 (RS): wall and at the same time sts left on hold for the sleeves and follow
twist cables according to the previously these instructions twice to make two identical
established pattern (4-3LC, 4-3RC). sleeves or use a magic loop technique to
work both sleeves simultaneously.

7
Rnd 1: starting in the middle FINISHING AND BLOCKING
of the underarm,
● pick up and k3 (5, 5, 9, 7) (11, 11, 15, 15) Weave in the remaining ends. Soak the
sts of the underarm, garment in lukewarm water. Gently squeeze
● pick up and knit 1 extra st to avoid a hole, to remove most of the water and then roll in
— (decrease the purl sts between cables a towel to dry. Pin out to measurements or
on the sleeve) — k4, ssk, *k2tog, k3, ssk; rep desired size/shape and leave flat to dry.
from * to the opposite side of the underarm,
finishing the sleeve section with k2tog, k4
and decreasing a total of 16 (16, 16, 16, 20) SHARING AND FEEDBACK
(20, 22, 22, 22) sts,
● pick up and knit 1 extra st to avoid a hole, If you feel like sharing pictures or your
● pick up and k the remaining 3 (5, 5, 9, 7) thoughts about the design, please do so
(11, 11, 15, 15) sts of the underarm. in your projects on Ravelry and/or under
Join to work in the round and place a BOR #purpureasweater hashtag on Instagram. I
marker. You will have a total of 53 (57, 57, would be thrilled to see your projects!
65, 71) (79, 84, 92, 92) sts.
If you wish to stay in touch and see what I’m
Next 16 (13, 16, 11, 8) (5, 4, 3, 3) rnds: kall. up to, follow me on Instagram or support my
work via Patreon to get an early access to test
Rnd 18 (15, 18, 13, 10) (7, 6, 5, 5): knit calls, exclusive discounts and podcast
ssk, k till 2 sts to EOR, k2tog. episodes. You can also keep an eye on the
upcoming test knit calls and new releases
Then, evenly decrease on the inner side of the
by signing up for my newsletter here.
sleeve by 2 sts in every 18th (15th, 18th, 13th,
10th) (7th, 6th, 5th, 5th) rnd as described If you have questions or found a mistake,
above finishing decreases when you have a please contact me via email at
total of 45 (47, 49, 53, 55) (55, 56, 58, 60) sts tetilutsak@gmail.com and I will do my best
left for the cuffs and work even till the sleeve to help you. Please, be respectful and kind,
measures ca. 38 cm (14.75 in). Add more remember, nobody is perfect.
rnds if necessary to adjust the length, given
that the cuffs will add another 5 cm (2 in). Happy knitting and thank you
for supporting my work,
SIZES 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, —, —, —) ONLY Teti
In the last rnd before the cuffs, decrease 1 st
to have an even number of sts as follows:
— ssk, k to EOR.
You will have a total of 44 (46, 48, 52, 54) (54,
—, —, —) sts for the cuffs.

CUFFS

Switch to 3.5 mm (US 4) needles for the ribbing.

Rnd 1 — Rnd 12 (12 rnds): *k1,

p1; rep from * to EOR.
Bind off using a tubular bind-off or any other
method of your choice and break the yarn.

8
 YOKE PATTERN CHART

14 10 5 1

p p k k M k k p p k k M k k Rnd 41 return to written instructions

14 10 5 1
p p k k k k p p k k k k Rnd 40
p p k k M k k p p k k M k k Rnd 41
p p > p p ? Rnd 39
p p k k k k p p k k k k Rnd 40
p p k k k k p p k k k k Rnd 38
p p > p p ? Rnd 39
p p k k k k p p k k k k Rnd 37
p p k k k k p p k k k k Rnd 38
p p k k k k p p k k k k Rnd 36
p p k k k k p p k k k k Rnd 37
p p k k k k p p k k k k Rnd 35
p p k k k k p p k k k k Rnd 36
p p k k k k p p k k k k Rnd 34
p p k k k k p p k k k k Rnd 35
p p k k k k p p k k k k Rnd 33
p p k k k k p p k k k k Rnd 34
p p k k M k p p k M k k Rnd 32
p p k k k k p p k k k k Rnd 33
p p k k k p p k k k Rnd 31
p p k k M k p p k M k k Rnd 32
p p + p p , Rnd 30
p p k k k p p k k k Rnd 31
p p k k k p p k k k Rnd 29
p p + p p , Rnd 30
p p k k k p p k k k Rnd 28 k knit
p p k k k p p k k k Rnd 29
p p k k k p p k k k Rnd 27
p p k k k p p k k k Rnd 28 k knit
p p k k k p p k k k Rnd 26 p purl
p p k k k p p k k k Rnd 27
p p k k k p p k k k Rnd 25
p p k k k p p k k k Rnd 26 p purl
p p k k k p p k k k Rnd 24 o yarn over
p p k k k p p k k k Rnd 25
p p k M k p p k M k Rnd 23
p p k k k p p k k k Rnd 24 o yarn over
p p k k p p k k Rnd 22 M make 1 left (knit)
p p k M k p p k M k Rnd 23
p p ! p p " Rnd 21
p p k k p p k k Rnd 22 M make 1 left (knit)
p p k k p p k k Rnd 20 @ make 1 left (purl)
p p ! p p " Rnd 21
p p k k p p k k Rnd 19
p p k k p p k k Rnd 20 @ make 1 left (purl)
p p k k p p k k Rnd 18 ! 1-1RC
p p k k p p k k Rnd 19
p p k k p p k k Rnd 17
p p k k p p k k Rnd 18 ! 1-1RC
p p k k p p k k Rnd 16 " 1-1LC
p p k k p p k k Rnd 17
p p ! p p " Rnd 15
p p k k p p k k Rnd 16 " 1-1LC
p p k k p p k k Rnd 14 + 2-1RC
p p ! p p " Rnd 15
p p k k p p k k Rnd 13
p p k k p p k k Rnd 14 + 2-1RC
p p k k p p k k Rnd 12 , 2-1LC
p p k k p p k k Rnd 13
p p k k p p k k Rnd 11
p p k k p p k k Rnd 12 , 2-1LC
p p ! p p " Rnd 10 > 2-2RC
p p k k p p k k Rnd 11
@ p k k @ p k k Rnd 9
p p ! p p " Rnd 10 > 2-2RC
p k k p k k Rnd 8 ? 2-2LC
@ p k k @ p k k Rnd 9
p k k p k k Rnd 7
p k k p k k Rnd 8 ? 2-2LC
p k k p k k Rnd 6
p k k p k k Rnd 7
p ! p " Rnd 5
p k k p k k Rnd 6
p k k p k k Rnd 4
p ! p " Rnd 5
p k k p k k Rnd 3
p k k p k k Rnd 4
p k k p k k Rnd 2
p k k p k k Rnd 3
o k k o k k Rnd 1
p k k p k k Rnd 2
6 5 4 3 2 1
o k k o k k Rnd 1
6 5 4 3 2 1