0% found this document useful (0 votes)
193 views6 pages

Iefs

This document provides an original crochet pattern for making mini briefs by Brenna Eaves, including a list of materials, abbreviations, and detailed instructions for assembly. The pattern emphasizes the importance of following specific stitch counts and techniques for achieving the desired shape and detailing. Copyright information is included, requesting that the pattern not be redistributed without consent.

Uploaded by

addyske11y
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
0% found this document useful (0 votes)
193 views6 pages

Iefs

This document provides an original crochet pattern for making mini briefs by Brenna Eaves, including a list of materials, abbreviations, and detailed instructions for assembly. The pattern emphasizes the importance of following specific stitch counts and techniques for achieving the desired shape and detailing. Copyright information is included, requesting that the pattern not be redistributed without consent.

Uploaded by

addyske11y
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 6

Mini Briefs

 an original crochet pattern by Brenna Eaves 

If you have any questions, corrections or concerns, feel free to contact me! nutsaboutcrochet13@yahoo.com

Materials: Slp st = slip stitch


WW yarn in colour of your choice, and
white Other Abbreviations:
Size 4.0mm (US G6) hook Sts = stitches
Yarn needle FO = finish off
Dec = decrease
Stitches Used:
Ch = chain Finished dimensions are approximately
Sc = single crochet 2” x 3”.

I retain the copyright to all of my patterns and the photographs they contain. Please respect my copyright
and do not redistribute my pattern without my approved, written consent. Thank you.
© 2012 Brenna R Eaves
Pants
The coloured part of the pants will be worked flat, then sewn in the appropriate places, with the white detailing
added later.
This piece is the only part of the process that uses a consistent, definitive pattern, the rest is better explained in
more of a tutorial setup.
Using the colour of your choice, ch 15
1. sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn (14)
2-3. sc in each sc across, turn (14)
4. sc dec, sc in next 10 sc, sc dec, turn (12)
5. sc dec, sc in next 8 sc, sc dec, turn (10)
6. sc dec, sc in next 6 sc, sc dec, turn (8)
7. sc dec, sc in next 4 sc, sc dec, turn (6)
8. sc in each sc across, turn (6)
9. sc dec, sc 2, sc dec, turn (4)
10-12. sc in each sc across, turn (4)
13. 2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn (6)
14. sc in each sc across, turn (6)
15. 2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn (8)
FO
Using the same colour and starting with a long tail, ch 3. You’ll be working this next row as if you never
finished off.
16. sc in each of the next 8 sc, ch 4, turn
17. sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 sc, sc across next 8 sc, sc in each of the last 3 ch, turn (14)
18-19. sc in each sc across, turn (14)
FO

You should now have something that looks like the example on the left.

In the example on the right, all I’ve done is weave in the end from row 15, and weave the end from the
beginning of row 16 through the stitches so it ends up on the opposite side. This will make sewing the
briefs into shape a lot easier.

2
Fold the briefs in half so
the top of the piece and
the bottom line up.
Sew rows 1-3 and rows 17-
19 together at the sides
using the yarn ends and a
simple whipstitch.

When you’re finished, it


should look something like
the example below.

3
Now for the white trimming. I always start with the left leg hole, move to the waistband
and finish with the right leg hole. This allows me to easily use the tail ends of the white for
the embroidery details as I go.

With the white, make a slip knot and place it on your crochet hook. Starting with the back
of the briefs facing you, you’re going to work about 20 to 22 sc around the leg hole,
working wherever you can. I’ve ended up with 22 sc just as much as I’ve ended up with 20,
it doesn’t really matter just so long as there aren’t so few stitches that it puckers the briefs
or so many that it warps.

Once you’ve come all the way back around, you can join to the
first sc with a slp st, sometimes it makes the blending between
start and finish look smoother. This applies for all the white trim
borders. FO the white.

Weave in the FO tail only, going clockwise under the white


stitches.

Using the beginning tail, weave it counterclockwise under the


white stitches only about as far as pictured, then leave it there
for now, don’t trim it.

4
Starting about two stitches from the end of row 19, begin the sc waistband using white.
You should end up with around 30 sc, again give or take a few stitches. When you’ve come
full circle, FO the white and weave in the FO tail only, going clockwise under the white
stitches.

Thread the yarn needle with the beginning tail from


the left leg hole, count in about four stitches from
the beginning of row 19 and insert the needle
between the stitches of the waistband as shown.

When you pull the yarn taut, make sure it’s not so
tight that it sews the leg hole to the waistband,
that’s not what you’re going for here. What you
want is a simple line tracing from the leg hole to the
waistband. You want it tight enough it won’t easily
snag but loose enough it doesn’t buckle the briefs.

Weave in this tail securely, going clockwise.

5
Using the beginning tail from the waistband, weave it
through two stitches only, going counterclockwise. This will
be used for the rest of the y-front detailing, so leave it where
it is and don’t trim it.

On to the right leg trim. Using the white yarn and


with the back of the briefs facing you to begin with,
work about 20 to 22 sc around the leg hole. Again,
exact numbers don’t matter just so long as it’s
relatively uniform.
Weave in both the beginning and FO tails this time,
you won’t be needing them.

Almost done! All that’s left is the rest of the


embroidered detailing, so thread your yarn needle with the beginning tail of the waistband
that you repositioned. As pictured on the left below, weave the needle through three or
four (I generally go with three) stitches at the front of the right leg trim and pull through,
creating that second line from the waistband to the leg hole.

To create the faux fly, insert the needle as shown on the top right and pull through.

To anchor the curve of the faux fly in place,


poke the needle back down through the same
space you just pulled through, making sure you
have the loop of yarn that creates the y-front
caught in the middle so it ends up tacked
down.

After that just weave in the end, and you’re


done!
Now watch them multiply!

You might also like