Chewbacca - Onpoki

Chewbacca Star Wars tribute

Materials, tips, and instructions.

Yarn and hook
This little Chewie was made with a cotton ARAN weight yarn (AKA medium / 4 / 10 ply / worsted /
afghan) and a 3.00 mm (US D/3 - UK-CAN 11) crochet hook.
With the materials I used I got a Chewbacca 6.50 cm (2.55 inches) wide and 16 cm (6.29 inches) tall.
You can use any weight of yarn to make your amigurumi, provided you choose an appropriate hook
size for that yarn weight, the only thing that will change is the final size. Just make sure there are no
holes in between the stitches. This usually happens when an incorrect crochet hook is used.

Yarn quantities
Chewbacca (light brown): Approximately 37 gr
Embroidered details -nose, mouth, satchel detail- (dark brown, white, grey): Almost nothing
Satchel (dark brown): Less than 10 gr
The rest...
Eyes: 12 mm safety eyes.
Filling: Approximately 13 grams polyester fibre (wadding, pillow stuffing).
Yarn needle: To attach the parts.

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Row counter: It will really help you to keep track of how many rounds you have worked... Or you can
simply use a paper and a pen... If you are easily distracted, like me, I really recommend you to get one.

Stitch markers: When making amigurumis in a spiral (continuous rounds) it is pretty easy to lose track
of the beginning of the round, so I strongly recommend using any kind of stitch markers, bobby pins
or a scrap of contrasting yarn will work perfectly fine.

Extra instructions
- Brackets [ ] -
Repeat the instructions inside the brackets the number of times indicated by the number at the end.
Ex: [6 sc, 3 inc]x 6 means that we will have to do the combo of 6 single crochet and 3 increases 6
times. And since we are here, 3V means that we will have to make 1 increase in each of the following
3 stitches.
- Symbols of inequality < > -
When you see stitches between these symbols, it means that we need to work those in the same stitch.
Ex: <2 sc,1 hdc> means that we need to do 2 single crochet and a half double crochet in the same
stitch.
- Parentheses ( )-
The number inside the parentheses is the number of stitches you should have at the end of the round.
Ex: [2 sc, 2 inc]*2 (12) means that we should have 12 stitches in total at the end of that round.
- Curly brackets { }-
Inside the braces you will find some extra information for the correct realization of the item.

{This pattern was written using US terms}

Table of abbreviations and different terms

Abbreviation US UK
MR magic ring / magic loop

st stitch

ch chain

ss slip stitch

sc single crochet double crochet

inc increase

dec decrease

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When you see this symbol means that there will be a link where you will find more
information about this technique (www.onpoki.com).
I hope you find it useful! ^_^
If you printed this pattern you can scan
this QR code which will take you directly
to my website.

Pattern
{ This pattern is made in a continuous spiral, unless otherwise stated.
- You do not need to close every round at the end - }
:: Head ::
* Using the light brown colour yarn * 1
1) MR 6 sc (6)
2) 6 inc (12)
3) (1 sc, 1 inc)x 6 (18)
4) (1 inc, 2 sc)x 6 (24)
5) (3 sc, 1 inc)x 6 (30)
6) (3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc)x 6 (36)
7) (1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc)x 6 (42)
8) (3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc)x 6 (48)
9) (1 dec, 10 sc)x 4 (44) Back loop
10 - 17) 44 sc (44) Front loop
The following two rounds will both be worked from round 17, and we will end up with a double round
18. In the first round (18A) work all stitches in the back loop only (blo) (Image 1) - Back loop
and Front loop -. In the next round (18b) all stitches will be made in the front loop only (flo).
18A) Back loop only 44 sc (44) (Images 2 to 4)

2 3 4

18B) Front loop only 44 sc (44) (Images 5 to 7, next page)

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5 6 7

At the end of round 18B the head should look like image 8.

Next round will be made normally over both loops of round 18B (Images 9 and 10)

19) 44 sc (44)

8 9 10

Now we are going to make the little spikes that are on the edge of the head.

Make 3 chains (Image 11), make a ss in the first chain we made (Images 11 and 12),
and finish joining the spike to the head by skipping a stitch and making a ss in the next
stitch (Images 12 and 13).
Repeat this steps 21 times more (Images 14-15, next page). At the end you should
have 22 spikes.

Make the ss in
this stitch

Make the ss in
this chain Skip
11 12 13

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14 15
Fasten off and hide yarn (Images 16 to 18).

16 17 18

:: Face details ::
We are going to make the face on the opposite side of where we finished the head. Secure the yarn used
for the nose and mouth with a double knot on the inside of the head.

- NOSE:
Between the rounds 15 and 16. Use the
dark brown yarn double-stranded.
3 passes, 3 spaces wide (Images 19 and
20).

- EYES:
Between rounds 15 and 16.
Round 14 3 stitches away from the nose (Images
Round 15 21 and 22).
Round 16
- MOUTH:
Round 17
Round 18 Between rounds 17 and 18.
Round 19 Use a single strand (not double-stranded)
of white yarn. Just 1 pass. 3 spaces wide,
just under the nose (Image 23).

19

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20 Repeat 3
21 22
times

It should look like

23 24 this

: : L egs a nd b o d y : :

* Using the light brown colour yarn *

We are going to make first the 2 legs, which we will join and continue working on the rest of the
body (I hate sewing parts!!!).

: : Legs x 2 ::
*When making the magic ring, in both legs, we will leave the beginning thread (The
one that we used to adjust the centre of the magic ring) a bit longer than usual (Image
25). We will use it later to tie both legs inside the body. 6 cm (2.36 inches) should be
enough.*
1) MR 6 sc (6) 25
2) 6 inc (12)
3) (1 sc, 1 inc)x 6 (18)
4) Front loop only 18 sc (18)
5) Back loop only 18 sc (18) (Image 26)

* Once we finished rounds 4 and 5 the base of the leg it

will be concave (inward bending) (Image 26). That is
exactly what we want, but it can be a little uncomfortable
to work, so push the centre outwards (Images 27 and 28,
next page). *

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26 27 28
Let's continue with the leg...
6 - 8) 18 sc (18)
9) (4 sc, 1 dec)x 3 (15)
10) 15 sc (15)
Only fasten off the first leg. Do not cut the yarn on the second one, we will continue crocheting
from here to join both legs and make the body. Once we finish with the second leg (remember not
to cut the yarn!) follow the instructions below.
* Now we can push back the base of the legs inward (Image 29). This is how it should
look like (Images 30 and 31). *

29 30 31 32

: : B o d y ::
11) • Continuing from the last stitch on the 2nd leg make 3 chains (Image 32)
• Join to the first leg with one sc on the stitch opposite to where we closed the
first leg (Image 33, next page). This sc will be our new first stitch of the
round, be sure to place a marker on it (Image 34).
• Make 14 sc more on that leg (until you reach the chains).
• Make 3 sc over one of the sides of the chains (Image 35).
• Make 15 sc on the other leg (Image 36).
• And make 3 sc over the opposite side of the chains (Image 37).

12) 16 sc, 1 inc, 17 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (38)

13 - 14) 38 sc (38)
15) 7 sc, 1 dec, 17 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc (36)

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33 34 35

36 37 38

39
Make a double knot with the tails that we left at the beginning
when we made both legs (Images 38 and 39). Tie it firmly enough
so that it keeps the base of the feet curved inward after filling it,
but not so much that the legs begin to deform. This curvature in
the feet will give chewie the stability to stand.

16 - 17) 36 sc (36)
18) (7 sc, 1 dec)x 4 (32)
Start filling the body (Image 40). Fill just enough, the body should maintain the shape it already has (Image
41). It should be able to stand on his own now. And the curve on his feet should stay inwards thanks to the
threads we tied before (Images 42 and 43).

40 41 42 43

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19 - 22 ) 32 sc (32)
23) (6 sc, 1 dec)x 4 (28) 44
24) 28 sc (28)
25) (3 sc, 1 inc)x 7 (35)
26) (3 sc, 1 inc)x 8, 2 sc, 1 inc (44)
Fasten off and leave a long tail to attach the body to the head
(Image 44).

:: Arms ::
* Using the light brown colour yarn *
1) MR 6 sc (6) 45
2) 6 inc (12)
3 - 6) 12 sc (12)
7) (4 sc, 1 dec)x 2 (10)
8 - 9) 10 sc (10)
Add some filling (Image 45).

10) (3 sc, 1 dec)x 2 (8)

11 - 13) 8 sc (8)
Finish filling the arms with the help of scissors or a pen. Do not 46
fill too much, just add little more filling (Image 46).

Close the opening of the arms by crocheting through both sides

of the opening to make a sc (Images 47 to 50). We will do 3 sc
in total * We will use only 6 stitches out of the 8 stitches on
the arm * (Image 47 and 51, next page).
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to attach the arms to the body (Image 52,
next page).

Squeeze the arms a little to distribute the stuffing inside them.

We a r e no t g o i ng t o
47 join t he e nd s t i t c h e s 48 49
( ma r ke d w i t h a )

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50 51 52

Attach the arms on both sides of the body on round 3 (counting from the neck downwards)
(Image 53). To attach them, follow the instruction in the images 53 to 56. I reinforce the join
by first attaching the arm completely, and then going back to the beginning of the join, passing
through all the stitches once more.

53 54
D1
O UN D 2
R UN 3 1
RO UND ND
ROU D 2
RO N
ROU D 3
U N
RO

Go through both
55 56
sides of the arm
(Through the
stitches we made
to close the sides).
RO UN D 1
UN D 2
RO UN

3
D
RO

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Once we finish, make a double knot inside the body (Image 57). It should look like in images 59
and 59.

57 58 59

:: Attaching the head to the bo dy ::

This will be super easy! As I told you before, I really hate attaching parts, that's why I always try
to do it the easiest way.

The side where we made the last stitch of the body will be the front (Image 60).

Using the tapestry needle and the tail we left at the end of the body, we will join each of the stitches
of the neck to a stitch on the round 18A on the head (Images 61 and 62). Before starting to attach
the head, double check it is in the right position (eyes to the front!). Finish filling the body and
head before completely closing (Image 63).

When we finish, make a double knot and hide the thread inside the body (Image 64). It should look
like image 65.

60 61 62

63 64 65

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And now, to finish this little Chewbacca, let's make him a bandolier/satchel.

:: Bandolier / Satchel ::
Using a dark brown thread, we will work on the bag in rows . So, every time you read “chain-turn”
you need to do a chain and turn the fabric to keep working on the stitches. The first stitch of the
next row will be made in the same stitch where we just made the chain.

1) Make 8 chains, leaving the thread at the beginning a little longer, so you can hide it
later (Image 66)
In the next row, make the first sc in the 3rd chain from the hook (Image 67)
2 - 3) 6 sc (12) chain turn
Work all the stitches of the next row in the front loop only (FLO).

4) 6 sc (12) chain turn. It should look like Image 68

66 67 68
1
2
3

Continue working on both loops.

5 - 7) 6 sc (6) chain-turn
Work all the stitches of the next row in the front loop only (FLO).

8) 6 sc (6) chain turn

Continue working on both loops.

9 - 10) 6 sc (6) chain-turn

In the next round, we will make stitches around the bag to close the sides.

First, we are going to fold the

69 70
bag over the row 8 (Image 69
and 70).
The back loops from rows
4 and 8 should be on the
outside of the bag.

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11) • Close that side of the bag, going in the direction to the base, with 3 sc (Image
71).
• Make 1 chain.
• To reach the other side of the bag, make one sc in each of the back loops of row
8 (Images 72 to 73). It will look like image 74
• Make 1 chain
• Close the last side of the bag with 3 sc (Images 74 and 75).
It should look like image 76.

71 72 73

3 21
1 4
65
2
3

74 75 76
1
2
1
2 3
3

Don't fasten off, from here we are going to make the chains to make the strap in the next round..
12) Make 46 chains (Image 77)
13) Starting on the second chain from our hook, Make 45 sc (Image 78).
Join to the bag with a ss (Image 79)

77 78 79

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Fasten off, make a knot and leave a long tail to attach the other end of the strap to the satchel
(Image 80). With the help of the tapestry needle, pass the yarn through the stitches on the back
of the bag to reach the other end of the bag/satchel (Image 81 and 82).

80 81 82

Join both ends of the bandolier to that side of the shoulder bag with a knot (Image 83) and hide the
thread (Image 84). Also, hide the tail we left at the beginning of the flap on the satchel (Image 85).

83 84 85

86 87

It should look like images 86

and 87.

:: Grey details on the strap ::

We are going to use the grey thread. For my Chewie, I used approx. 70 cm (27.55 inches) of
thread.
With the help of the tapestry needle, we are going to go all around the strap. Leave enough
thread at the beginning, so you can make a knot and then hide it (Image 88, next page).
We are going to do one stitch on top of and one under the strap (Images 89 to 92), at the end
of that side we will need to do a stitch under the strap to reach the other side (Image 93) repeat
what we did on the right side until you finish that side.

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88 89 90

91 92 93

Once you are done with the second edge (Image 94) secure the thread by making a double knot
with the thread we left at the beginning of the right side (Image 95). Hide them on the back of the
strap (Images 96 to 98) and make a knot at the end to secure them. It should look like Image 99.

94 95 96

97 98 99

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That's it!
You just finished your Chewbacca!!!
I hope you had fun making him.
^_^

I w o u l d l o ve t o s e e h o w t h e y t u r n e d o u t ! P l e a s e s h a r e i t o n I n s t a g r a m
and/or Facebook using the tag @onpoki and the hashtag #onpoki, so I
can see your creation.

T h a nk you so muc h fo r c ho o sin g on e of m y pa t t e r n s . You m a d e m e really

h a p py.
With love, Paula...

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Copyright information of this pattern

© 2017 ONPOKI - Paula Fuentes - All rights reserved. This pattern is FOR PERSONAL
USE ONLY! The pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or resold,
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Please include a note about the item being an “Onpoki design” on the tag (at a craft
fair) or/and a link to my shop “onpoki.etsy.com” when you sell these items on Internet.

THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING ONE OF MY PATTERNS AND FOR RESPECTING MY WORK.

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