Digger Crochet Pattern

Thank you for purchasing this pattern. It has been supplied for personal use only and may not be copied, shared or
reproduced in any way, although I am happy for you to sell the finished articles.

Photos within this pattern may not be used without permission from Toota Toys.

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Before you start

The size will vary depending on the yarn used, hook size and how tightly you crochet. I use DK yarn and a 3.0 mm
hook. The digger shown is approx. 28cm long and 19cm high, and was made with quite a light weight DK yarn.

The best advice I can give you for yarn selection is find something suitable for the windows, then find the colours you
need in a similar weight. It really looks best with a silvery shine for the windows rather than plain yarn. I use Ice
Yarn’s Silver Shine, but as it is only available in packs of 8 balls you may prefer to find something similar available in
smaller quantities.

Materials

Yarn weight doesn’t matter, as long as all colours are a similar thickness and an appropriate hook size is selected.
This toy does not need to be stuffed as firmly as most amigurumi and therefore the stitches don’t need to be really
tight. Using DK yarn and a 3.0 mm hook, I used the following quantities:

Yellow: 45g (100m)

Charcoal: 45g (130m)
Grey: 54g (97m)
Silver: 15g (65m)
Metallic silver (rams): 5g (12m)

I use foam rubber for most of the stuffing to help keep the shape right. Using fibrefill will cause pieces to bulge if
stuffed firmly, ie tracks will become cylinders instead of flat ovals.
Small amount of fibrefill

Crochet hooks: 2.0 and 3.0 mm (or suitable for selected yarn)
Also required is a tapestry needle and scissors.

Abbreviations: This pattern uses American Standard Abbreviations

approx. approximately rem remaining

beg beginning rep repeat
BLO back loop only rnd round
bpdc back post double crochet RS right side
ch chain sc single crochet
cont continue sk skip
dc double crochet ss slip stitch
dec decrease st stitch
FLO front loop only tr treble crochet
FO fasten off tog together
Hdc half double crochet WS wrong side
inc increase [] work contents of brackets into next stitch

All rows worked begin with ch 1 to turn, unless otherwise specified

There is a lot of sewing up for this pattern. Where it is useful to leave a long tail for sewing up later, I have marked
the start and / or FO with a *, and the suggested length

Use 3.0mm hook for all parts unless otherwise specified

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The side windows require intarsia crochet, ie working with more than one colour. This technique is described below.
Always use the 2nd colour to finish the last st in the 1st colour

In the last st in colour 1, stop This completes the st in colour 1, Work the required sts in colour 2,
before the final yo and make this in and leaves you ready to make the leaving colour 1 skein hanging at
the new colour, then pull through next st in colour 2 back of work
remaining loops on hook

Crochet in colour 2 as normal, Bringing colour 1 up to become the Before making the first st in new
including turning if necessary until active thread leaves a loop of yarn colour, pass the hook under this loop
it is time to change back to colour between the 2 rows
1. As above, make final yo of last st
in new colour

Then through the st as normal, and This tightens and tidies the join
complete the st.

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 Boom: Yellow - Fig 1
Row St
ch 43, starting in 2nd ch from hook 42
1 sc 14, sc2tog, sc 5, sc2tog, sc 18, [2sc] 41
2 [2sc], sc 30, ss 10 42
3 ss 7, sc 7, sc2tog, sc 3, sc2tog, sc 20, [2sc] 41
4 sc 34, ss 7 41
5 ss 10, sc 3, sc2tog, sc 3, sc2tog, sc 19, sc2tog 38
6 sc2tog, sc 36 37
7 sc 13, sc2tog, sc 1, sc2tog, sc 17, sc2tog 34

Stop here and use this piece as a template to

cut out foam for stuffing

8 Sc 34 BLO 34
9 Ss 10, sc 24 34
10 Sc 24, ss 10 34
11 Sc 34 34
12 All BLO – [2sc], sc 17, [2sc], sc, [2sc], sc 13 34
13 Sc 36, [2sc] 37
14 [2sc], sc 19, [2sc], sc 3, [2sc], sc 3, ss 10 38
15 Ss 7, sc 34 41
16 Sc2tog, sc 20, [2sc], sc 3, [2sc], sc 7, ss 7 41
Fig 1
17 Ss 10, sc 30, sc2tog 42
18 Sc2tog, sc 18, [2sc], sc 5, [2sc], sc 14 41
19 Sc 42 FLO 42
20 Sc 32, ss 10 42
21 Ss 10, sc 32 42
22 Sc 42 42

Wrap boom around stuffing and ss to join

starting chain and FO edge, working through
both thicknesses together. (Fig 2)

Fig 2

Join yellow onto unshaped side of lower end

of boom (straight edges) (*20cm) and sc 4
evenly between the BLO ridges. Work 3 more
rows of sc 4, and FO.
(Fig 3)
Fold flap just made down and sew into place
with starting tail to close in end of boom.

Fig 3

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 Dipper Arm: Yellow – Fig 4

Ch 32, starting in 2nd ch from hook

1 Sc 30, [2sc] 32
2 [2hdc], hdc 11, sc 10, ss 10 33
3 Ss 7, sc 12, hdc 14 33
4 Sc 33 33

Stop here and use this piece as a template to

cut out foam for stuffing

5 Sc 33 BLO 33
6-8 3 rows of Sc 33 33
9 Sc 33 BLO 33
10 Hdc 14, sc 12, ss 7 33
11 Ss 10, sc 10, hdc 11, hdc2tog 32
12 Sc2tog, Sc 30 31
13 Sc 31 BLO 31
14-16 3 rows of sc 31 31

Wrap dipper arm around stuffing and ss to

join starting chain and FO edge, working
through both thicknesses together as shown
in Fig 2.

Ch 1, and sc 4 evenly across the end of rows

14-16
Work 3 more rows of sc 4, and FO* (20cm)

Fold flap just made down and sew into place

with tail to close in end of dipper arm.

Join in charcoal *(20cm) and sc 4 evenly

across the lower (narrow) end of the dipper
arm, in the unshaped section between the
first 2 BLO ridges (ends of rows 6-8). Fig 4
Note: Opposite side of dipper arm to yellow
flap

Work 11 more rows sc then FO* (20cm)

Cab Side (Make 2) – Worked in yellow, charcoal and silver – Fig 5

*(10cm) ch 13, start in 2nd ch from hook

1 12 sc 12
2 [2sc], sc 11 13
3 Sc 12, [2sc] 14
4 Sc 2, sc 4, sc 3, sc 1, sc 3, sc 1 14
5 Sc 1, sc 3, sc 1, sc 5, sc 2, sc 2 14
6 Sc 2, sc 7, sc 1, sc 3, sc 1 14
7 Sc 1, sc 3, sc 1, sc 7, sc 2 14
8 Sc 2, [2sc], sc 6, sc 1, sc 3, sc 1 15
9 Sc 1, sc 3, sc 1, sc 8, sc 2 15
10 Sc 2, sc 8, sc 1, sc 3, sc 1 15
11-14 Repeat rows 9-10 twice 15
15 Sc 1, sc 3, sc 1, sc 6, sc2tog, sc 2 14
Fig 5
16 Sc 2, sc 7, sc 1, sc 3, sc 1 14

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 17 Sc 1, sc 3, sc 1, sc 5, sc2tog, sc 2 13
18 Sc 2, sc 10, sc 1 13
19 Sc 1, sc 8, sc2tog, sc 2 12
20 Sc 2, sc2tog, sc 8 11
21 Sc 7, sc2tog, sc 2 10
FO

Cab Front (Start in Yellow) –Fig 7

Ch 11, start in 2nd ch from hook

Work 10 sc in all rows, in colours as
explained for Cab RHS

1-3 Sc 10
4-5 Sc 10
6-22 Sc 1, sc 8, sc 1
23-24 Sc 10
25-30 Sc 1, sc 8, sc 1
31-32 Sc 10
33-42 Sc 1, sc 8, sc 1
43-51 Sc 10
52 Sc 10 BLO
53-66 Sc 10
FO* (50cm)

Fig 7

Track Assembly (Grey) Make 2 sets

Round Ch 30, starting in 2nd ch from hook

1 [2sc], sc 27, [3sc], continue up back side of chain, sc 28 60
2 [2sc] twice, sc 27, [2sc] 3 times, sc 27, [2sc] 66
3 ([2sc], sc) twice, sc 27, ([2sc],sc) 3 times, sc 27, [2sc], sc
Ss to join, FO* (Fig 8) 72

Make a second piece the same, but don’t FO

Working BLO for whole round:
4 Sc 4, sc2tog, sc 27, sc2tog, sc 5, sc2tog, sc 27, sc2tog, sc 1
5-6 Sc 68 68
FO*(60cm) (Fig 9)

Fig 8

Fig 9

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 Cut a piece of foam the same size as the flat piece, and
start sewing both pieces together. Gather flat section
slightly at corners to match the decreases worked in rnd 4.
Insert foam into assembly, and finish sewing edges. (Fig
10)

Fig 10
Track (Charcoal) Make 2

* (50cm) Ch 7, start in 3rd ch from hook

1 Dc 5
2 Ch 2, fpdc 5
Note: I prefer to make the first fpdc around the second dc, and the last around the ch 2. If you
prefer you can start in the first, as long as every row is done the same it doesn’t matter.

Repeat Row 2 until track is long enough to fit snugly around track assembly when joined into a
ring. (Approx 50 rows)
FO *(50cm) (Fig 11)

Fig 11

Fig 12

Join start and finish together, forming a ring. Place around the track assembly and stitch around
to secure, sewing around both edges of track, using one tail for each side (Fig 12)

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 Bonnet Top – Fig 13
Start in charcoal
*(40cm) Ch 10, start in 2nd ch from hook
1-9 Work 9 rows of sc 9 9
Change to yellow, and work
10-12 3 more rows of sc 9 9
13 Sc 9, ch 13, start in 2nd ch from hook 21
14-24 11 rows of sc 21 21
25 Sc2tog, sc 17, sc2tog 19
26 Sc2tog, sc 15, sc2tog 17
FO

Use the bonnet top (yellow part only) as a

template to cut foam the same shape for
stuffing. (I use 2 pieces, but this will depend
on the thickness of foam you are using)
Fig 13

Bonnet Side – Fig 14

With yellow, ch 49, start in 2nd ch from hook

1-4 Work 4 rows of sc 48 48
5-9 Work 5 rows of sc 42 (leaving 6 st unworked) 42
Ch 1
Fig 14

Pin bonnet side around edge of bonnet top,

starting on RHS where charcoal section
starts, and ss two pieces together (Fig 15)
FO

Fig 15

Bonnet Underneath – Fig 16

Rows Using charcoal,
*(60cm) Ch 4, start in 2nd ch from hook
1-4 Work 4 rows of sc 3 3
5 7 ch, turn, sc 9 starting in 2nd ch from hook 9
6-8 Work 3 rows of sc 9 9
9 12 ch, turn, sc 20 starting in 2nd ch from hook 20
10-20 Work 11 rows of sc 20 20
21 Sc2tog, sc 16, sc2tog 18
22 Sc2tog, sc 14, sc2tog 16
FO

Fig 16

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 Rams (Make 4 yellow, 4 metallic) – Fig 17

*(15cm) With yellow and 3.0 mm hook, ch 6

loosely and ss into ring
Work 10 rounds of sc 6 in a continuous
spiral, SS to join, FO*(15cm)

Make 4 yellow rams as above

Make 4 more with metallic yarn and 2mm

hook, for 12 rounds instead of 10
Fig 17

Ram Cones (Make 2) Fig 18

With yellow, work 4sc into a magic ring

1 Sc 4 4
2 ([2sc], sc) twice 6
3 ([2sc], sc 2) twice 8
4 Sc 8, ss to join, FO* (20cm) 8
Fig 18
Bucket – Fig 19

With grey and 3.0 mm hook

Ch 10, start in 2nd ch from hook
1-18 Work 18 rows of sc 9
19 Ch 5, sk 1,(tr 1, ch 1, sk 1) 3 times, tr 1
20-35 Work 16 rows of sc 9, counting ch sp as a st Sewing lines
FO*(60cm)

Fold in half so that tr form bucket teeth, and

sew sides together evenly. The shorter side
(inside) will pull bucket into a curve.
(Wrapping the bucket around your finger as
Fig 19
you sew it will help set the curve evenly)

Also sew across the base of the teeth

Bucket sides (Make 2) – Fig 20 - 21

With grey Ch 4, start in 2nd ch from
hook 3
1 Sc 3 5
2 [2sc], sc, [2sc] 7
3 [2sc], sc 3, [2sc] 8
4 [2sc], sc 6 7
5 Sc 6, ss, ch 1, turn 6
6 Sk ss, hdc 4, sc 1, ss, ch 1, turn 5
7 Sk ss, sc 1, hdc 2, sc 1, ss, ch 1, turn 2 Fig 20
8 Sk ss, hdc 1, sc2tog
FO *(40cm) Fig 21

Sew bucket sides into bucket, aligning as shown, with cast on edge (blue) from teeth towards back of
bucket, and FO edge (red) in back of bucket bowl

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 Bucket Hitch – Fig 22 - 25

Use grey (shown in yellow for clarity)

Ch 3, then ss into top edge of bucket, passing hook

through both thicknesses. (Fig 22). Join the hitch at
approx 1/3 of the back edge of the bucket from the
left side as shown, then the second join the same
distance from the right side.
Ss 3 along starting ch, ch 5, ss into starting ch, turn
(Fig 23)
Work 4 rounds of 5 sc into the 5 ch loop
Ch 3, (Fig 24), ss into other side of bucket, ss 3 along
chains just made Fig 22
Ss into 3rd sc on round to close and FO (Fig 25)

Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 25

Blade – Fig 26

*(20cm) With grey ch 21, start in 2nd ch from hook

Sc 20 for 8 rows
Work 1 row sc 20 BLO
Sc 20 for 6 rows, FO

Fold in half along ridge from BLO row and join last row
Fig 26
to first by working ss loosely through both sides
together.
Sew sides edges together (as for bucket), easing the
blade into a curve

Blade Supports (Make 2) – Fig 27

Using grey
*(15cm) Ch 9, start in 2nd ch from hook
1-2 Sc 8
3 Sc 8 BLO
4 Sc 8
5 Sc 8 BLO
6 Sc 8
7 Sc 8 BLO
8 Sc 8

Ss join last row to first, working through both thicknesses, FO*(15cm) Fig 27

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 Bucket Support –Fig 28

Make a 3rd piece the same as Blade Support

above, but don’t FO.
Ch 1, sc 2 across edge of rows 7-8
Work 2 more rows sc 2, FO*(20cm)

Sew flap just made across end to close blade

support.
Fig 28

Axles (Make 2) – Fig 29

*(10cm) With grey, ch 8 loosely, ss into a

ring
Sc into ea ch, and continue in a spiral for 12
rounds in total
FO* (10cm)

Fig 29

Pins ( Make 4) – Fig 30

With charcoal, ch 2
Sc 6 into 2nd ch from hook
Ss to join, FO* (10cm) Fig 30

Exhaust – Fig 31-32

With charcoal, ch 5, start in 2nd ch from hook

Work 8 rows of sc 4
Work 2 rows of sc, dc 2, sc
Work 2 rows of sc 4 (Fig 31)

FO* (30cm) and sew sides together to form a

tube (Fig 32)

Fig 31

Fig 32

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 Cab Assembly

Sew yellow part of cab front to corresponding part on side

windows. Note: Front is curved, back is straight
With charcoal, continue joining the side seam by working sc Sew
through both thicknesses , holding the side in front of the
central front/back piece. Sc around the seam making sure
the top window lines up with the FO edge of the side. FO
when this point is reached,
and sew the rest of the seam leaving the underneath until
stuffing is inserted.
The BLO row should be located at the bottom edge of the
cab, and the roof (middle) window between the top corners
of the sides.
Fig 33

Repeat for second side, again keeping the side in front as you join. (ie start from the back window and
work around to the front). (Fig 34)
Cut pieces of foam the width of the cab. I cut one piece the length of the back window, one a bit longer
to follow the curve of the front window, and a shorter piece to go inbetween to fill out the curve of the
lower half (see Fig 35).
Stuff the cab, and sew the underneath in place. (Fig 36)

Fig 35
Fig 34
Fig 36

Bonnet Assembly

Join here

Fig 37 Fig 38
Sew the front section (charcoal) to the outside corner, from the top, down to the bottom, sewing it to
the inside of the step.

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 Start
here

Fig 39 Fig 40 Fig 41

Starting from the front of the Turn and work 3 rows of 6 sc to Ch 1, turn, and work 4 sc along
step sc 6 BLO in charcoal (shown form the step top, then repeat the edge of the step side, shown
in grey for clarity) these 4 rows once to form the in pink
step side (shown in blue)

Fig 42 Fig 43 Fig 44

Work 3 more rows sc, FO Fold step front (pink) over and Sew step side and top to charcoal
sew to step side and top section, forming a box.

Fig 47
Fig 45 Fig 46 and sew bonnet underneath
Note: “Box” is open underneath, Insert stuffing prepared earlier, section to bonnet sides and step.
and will be closed in with the and a small piece into the step
bonnet underneath section just made,

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 Blade Assembly Rear axle

Fig 48
Sew the blade supports onto the Fig 50
Fig 49
back of the blade as shown. Stuff the other axle and sew it
Stuff an axle, and sew the other
These do not need stuffing evenly between the 2 track
ends of the supports onto it
assemblies, approx 30mm from
the ends

Boom Assembly

Fig 53
Fig 51 Thread a tail from a metallic ram
Fig 52 into a tapestry needle, and pass
Sew the dipper arm onto the
boom as shown, inside the side it through a yellow ram taking
triangular pieces care not to catch any stitches

Fig 55
Fig 54 Sew a cone onto the free end of
Pull the metallic ram inside the the yellow ram, then sew it onto
the top of the boom in front of Fig 56
yellow sleeve until about half is
the bend. Sew a pin on each side of dipper
inside. Repeat for 3 other rams
Gently pull the metallic ram until arm
the end reaches the top of the
dipper arm. Sew the 2 rams
together where they join, and
sew the metallic ram to the top
of the dipper.

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 Join here,
1-2 st Fig 58
Fold remainder of hitch
flap through hitch on
bucket and sew to secure
Fig 59
Fig 57 Assemble and attach another
Sew hitch flap across bottom of dipper cone and ram assembly to front
arm to close in, then fold remainder up of dipper arm, keeping bottom
and sew to dipper arm for 1-2 sts on of ram and arm level. Sew
each side bucket support under ram and
dipper as shown, with the
unfinished end sewn to back of
bucket.

Fig 61
Fig 60 Sew a “pin end” over the top of
For remaining 2 rams, pull each of these side rams
Fig 62
metallic part well into the yellow
Sew the other end of the rams
sleeve and sew onto each side of
onto the top of the front axle, on
the boom as shown. Don’t sew
the rams to their sleeves yet the RHS of centre.

Sew cab and bonnet together

(Fig 63)
Sew top assembly onto track
assembly, sewing along inside
and outside of each track, and
having the rear of the bonnet in
line with the back of the tracks.
(Fig 64)
Fig 63 Fig 64

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 Sew together

Fig 65
Place the front axle between the tracks so
the blade is just in front of the tracks, and Fig 66
sew each side of the axle to the track Adjust the angle of the boom so the bucket is touching the
assembly ground, easing out the ram length to suit.
Sew the rams to their sleeves to secure the length set.
Sew boom to the cab , bonnet and track assembly
wherever it touches.

I also sew the bucket to the blade which makes the digger harder to destroy for boisterous children, but
this is totally optional.

Sew the exhaust into place, and you’re done!

We’d love to see your finished diggers! Please add a project in Ravelry if you are happy to share your work

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