Hello everyone,

It's Andy, again. Today, I want to show to you my finished project “Tokyo rain”.

First ideas - Street fashion

The miniature is from NutsPlanet called Agent Aida (1/35). As soon as I saw her, I had a scene of street fashion walking on the pavement in mind. Of course, the pistol in her right hand was too much, so I decided to cut it away and did a slight repositioning of the fingers of the right hand.

I started the project with priming black and white and some Grisaille underpainting. To get the first impression of my idea, I tinted the different parts with GW Contrast paints. 

Refining the idea – Tokyo by night

The plan was to finish the lady at the MV-Family-Meeting from this point on in a cool comic style with bold black shadows.

At some point during the Meeting, Roman came up with the idea of a strong atmospheric light to create an additional punch and I really appreciated the input. The idea of rainy Tokyo with all the neon lights arose. Just google „Tokyo rain“ and you’ll see it :)

To paint such strong athmospheric OSL effect, I usually start with a darker tone and continuously define the effect with increasingly brighter tones the closer I get to my imagined light source.

The easiest way to do that is with an airbrush. Grab your color of choice, dilute it to have more control about the opacity and shoot it from your preferred angle, just as simple as that. 

With a brush it’s a bit more challenging but also doable – paint a small mark at your base in the preferred angle to save the perspective and touch every surface visible from this angle with the color of your choice.

   

Tokyo Nights – in the rain

Working on the OSL and neon atmosphere I had another idea to make the project a bit more interesting. How about adding rain to the scene? The effect of raindrops was on my bucket list of things to try for years and this was the perfect project for it. I painted some circles on the ground and used the icicles tutorial to create the water-drops. 

Final results

And here are the pictures of the final results.

Thanks for reading and your interest. Feel invited to comment in the section below.

Andy

Hi Jungle Painters, 
time for another Painting Jam. You got questions, we try to answer them.

Painting Jams are answers to frequently asked painting question the jungle recieves. We try our best to give you answers that help you have more fun and joy in your own painting ways.

We got several Painting Jams in stock for you so check back with the horizontal navigation bar under Articles / Painting Jams. Enjoy!

Please remember that our answers are just... well, our answers. There might be other ways, other oppinions and other good tips, but you were asking us and all that we can provide are our answers. Pick from them what you like and we hope we can help with our thoughts, that we share here in the jungle so more people could gain information from it.

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Dirk asks:

Hello,
I am trying to do what has been described by some as a european style of skin tones.

I like the depth and realism that they tend to show. I looked at your article on Tribal Sacrification. I see that you shaded the rhino's skin with warm and cool tones. The gradient looks amazing. The question I have is why do you do shade with different tones?

Also How do you choose what color to use and where on the mini? I'm painting a miniature from Privateer Press (http://privateerpress.com/warmachine/gallery/mercenaries/warjacks/wrecker). I'm trying to do some kind of sick/tallow skin and wanted to implement European style skin tones to make the skin stand apart from the armor better. Something the minis on puttyandpaint.com do very well. Any tips/tricks/tactics would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Dirk

Roman's answer:
Hi Dirk, well skin. I could write a book about painting it. Well, maybe I should :D I be completly frankly with you. Sitting down now and writing all the things that come together while painting skin would just take too much of my time these days. I also think there ain't a european style or korean style or american style of painting skin. I recommend stopping these thoughts. All they do is to confuse. Painting skin only work with observation of the real thing. Take photos, observe people and get inspiration from other artwork (canvas painting in oil, digital artwork). Skin is very often a desaturated orange as a base tone. If it should be ill looking add some green to it. Placing lights on skin work well with more saturation in the color. Where to place the color variations of skin is obvious if you start to observe. I hope my answer helps you, I did not mean it rude. Attached inspirational artwork for skintones and face. Best Wishes Roman

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Cesar asks:
Hi,
first thanks for the content of your website, it's a great source of knowledge.

As a beginner , with no background in painting or art, I was wondering if there were books I could/should read ? Maybe books someone usually read in art school, and if I could apply it to miniature painting.

Thanks.

Roman's answer:
there is one I can recommend not often enough:
http://jamesgurney.com/site/213/color-and-light-a-guide-for-the-realist-painter

This is a great book :)

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Kyle asks:

Any secrets for using Schmincke paints? Struggling to get a smooth layer with them.. But you might have some thoughts on how to use them better ...

Roman's answer:
Paint them thick like a paste. Slap them on the surface. Use matte varnish from Ak if you are annoyed by the shine. You Can also use them for glazes

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You want to support Massive Voodoo? 
If you like to support or say thanks the monkeys of Massive Voodoo in what they do, please feel invited to drop a jungle donation in their direction via paypal or check their miniatures they got on sale here.

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Keep on happy painting!
Best Wishes
Roman

Hi Jungle Painters, 
time for another Painting Jam. You got questions, we try to answer them.
Painting Jams are answers to frequently asked painting question the jungle recieves. We try our best to give you answers that help you have more fun and joy in your own painting ways.

We got several Painting Jams in stock for you so check back with the horizontal navigation bar under Articles / Painting Jams. Enjoy!

Please remember that our answers are just... well, our answers. There might be other ways, other oppinions and other good tips, but you were asking us and all that we can provide are our answers. Pick from them what you like and we hope we can help with our thoughts, that we share here in the jungle so more people could gain information from it.

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During Painting Jam #34 Nassim was asking about how to paint tourquoise clothes.
He now managed to write us some feedback to our tip and show us his result:

Nassim writes: 
"Hello Roman. Hope you're fine ! A few weeks ago we spoke about turquoise and you gave me some advices. I just wanted to share with you the current wip I'm working on, with turquoise. Thanks again for your advices !"


Did Roman's tip work for you? 
Yes it worked very well with the colors you mentioned.So the base color is GW Stegadon Scale Green first shadow : kantor blue deep shadow : turquoise + black first light : Vallejo turquoise next lights : vallejo intense yellow + vallejo turquois.

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Giacomo asks:
"Ciao Roman, 
 I'd like to ask you some advice regarding the use of Forged Monkey's Dayglow pigments. Specifically, I have been using them for more then 2 years now but and i find them great. I tried different techniques raging from water, mediums of various brands and sort, mixing in with other colours etc... 

However i still can't manage to figure out the Plasma Blue. I wish to make a very bright blue glowing effect on a project and i think there should be a way of achieving that with your pigment but i can't find it. So, would you please point me in a direction? What do you think is the best way to use the Plasma Blue Pigment? is there another way you would suggest to get a very bright Blue glowing light on a model? thank you very much for your time." 

Roman answers: 
To your question. Blue is very hard. In fact blue is the hardest color to make it glow cuz it is the darkest basic tone. No matter if you use dayglow or very bright blue it will never look the same like yellow things you can do: a) mix in some dayglow yellow or green to the blue and white and make it more torquoise, this will give the blue more power but changes the tone b) paint areas around your glowing part really dark and then use the blues you like on a white undercoat. Means you paint the area you want to have glowing white, then with the blue. Due the dark areas around the blue will recieve more attention Blue is not easy, really.

Giacomo asks:
"These are good suggestions. on the technique, do you mix the pigments in white paint? Any specific paint?" 

Roman answers: 
Yes you need a binding Material for the pigments. Can use another acrylic color or if you use it pure you can use matte varnish

You can also check MV's article about Dayglow Pigments. 

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Adam asks:

"Hi, Huge fan of your work. 
You guys have been a constant source of inspiration and envy for me over the years. I have a question that I was hoping you could answer. 

Do you ever varnish your display models? 
I know a lot of showcase painters shun varnishing as it can change the final look of the paintjob, but personally I've found that if I leave my display models unvarnished, they tend to have a slight messy, dirty look to them, probably from a combination of overhandling and different textures in paint. I am very curious of your opinion on varnishes. Cheers!"

Raffa answers:
Hey there, we don't varnish our models but we also try to never touch them directly. That's why we always put a wooden plinth under them :)

Roman answers:
About the different textures in paint: Yes, happens to us too. Usually we force the different look to show properties of different materials. If you want to have a more constant overall look try to go with a good matte varnish on top of everything to pull it together (Airbrush). We sometimes do too, but more in the middle of process and still work our way to different properties for materials.

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Hello Jungle, 

as it looks like it this is the first Painting Jam in 2015.
Oh dear!

Painting Jams are answers to frequently asked painting question the jungle recieves. We try our best to give you answers that help you have more fun and joy in your own painting ways.

Please remember that our answers are just... well, our answers. There might be other ways, other oppinions and other good tips, but you were asking us and all that we can provide are our answers. Pick from them what you like and we hope we can help with our thoughts, that we share here in the jungle so more people could gain information from it.

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Nassim is asking:

"Hi Roman. 
Hope you're fine. May I ask you something /an advice ? 
On the next piece I'm working on, I'd like to paint a nice turquoise cloth. Exactely like the cloth on the head of the last Pirate bust of Fer miniatures. 

My problem is, I can't find the base/light and shadow to use. Could you tell me what color you would use to get such a color ? It would be very nice ! I join you a pic of the bust and hope you could help me. No pbm if not, thanks in advance"

Roman's answer:
Hey Nassim, sure. Well I 'd say it is a tourquoise but with a little more green in it. It also has a tiny drop of yellow to it. So if you want to mix the same basecolor I would take a tourqoiuse and add a bright green to it. A bright green that looks so bright because of the amount of yellow in it. Understood what I mean? This would be my base color. For shadows - looking at the photos I would just add a tiny drop of black to my basetone. Highlights are rare too, I would just go with a tiny drop of yellow to the basetone and maybe later on a tiny drop of white to it for final highlights on edges.

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Beau is asking:

World Expo 2017 (Chicago, USA)


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Ralf is asking:

"Hey Roman, 
how do you prepare yourself for miniature shows like Monte San Savino?"

It's about time again for a Painting Jamaramamammmaaa!

The jungle is answering frequently asked questions - FAQ, related to Miniature Painting and we hope we can help with our answers. Let's see then:

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Sinan asks via mail:

Hello Painters, 

as it looks like it this is the first Painting Jam in 2014.

Painting Jams are answers to frequently asked painting question the jungle recieves. We try our best to give you answers that help you have more fun and joy in your own painting ways. Please remember that our answers are just... well, our answers. There might be other ways, other oppinions and other good tips, but you were asking us and all that we can provide are our answers. Pick from them what you like and we hope we can help with our thoughts, that we share here in the jungle so more people could gain information from it.

First question: Why do my figures just look like Power Rangers?
Second Question: Wet Palette problems?
Third Question: Which figures to choose?
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Mr. Pérez
from Spain asks via private message:
"Hi Roman, I really apreciate your work, i really love yours scenes and your light and intention treatment. Actually, i´m stuck trying to improve this skills, because all of my miniatures looks like power rangers. Do you konw some tricks about that? Any book to learn this? I want to tell a history with my minis but in this point is very hard."

Roman:
Hi Mr. Pérez, thanks for your kind words. I do not find much time to answer you as I got so much mails going on, but if your miniatures look like power rangers you might work with some more desatured colours more often. To desaturate a colour add some grey to it, mix grey in a strong blue for example to make it look more realistic in the end. Hope my thoughts help! Keep on happy painting!

After some weeks Mr. Pérez wrote back:
"I`ll never can express the gratitude for you`re help! Actyally the tips which you tell me works! Your`re an awesome man. THANKS FROM SPAIN"

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Ivo
from Czeck Republic asks via mail:
"Hi Roman! I am currently having some issues with my wet palette. Unfortunately, it eats my paint! I will put some photo in this mail for you to see. I really have a problém painting my minis, because i have very little time before the paint dissapeard into the void. I can barely basecoat, then if i want to highlight or shade and the use glazes to smooth out the transition, the paint is gone. It looks like it somehow strangely soaks into the baking paper. This one is silicon coated. Only things left behind are those drops of paint from Vallejo bottles Please can you help me? Sincerely, Ivo" 



Roman:
- It might be the baking paper, I am not sure about the silicon coat, try to turning the paper around, try another baking paper
- it might be too less water in your wet pallete. The baking paper is not able to soak enough water from below
- Problem that i see is obvious to me: do clean edges when cutting the baking paper, at yours I see areas standing up at the edges, that leads to areas where air can get underneath the paper and dries the connection place between paper and watery foam/tissue.

Ivo answers:
"I was also wondering about the baking paper, and my result with another one are the same. The one I tried was white one (one on the photo is a brown kind), but the results were the same! So I went a little mad, but after that, i tried less water and it helped a little! Could it be the problém? Too much water and too little kitchen towel?" 

Roman: I'll get some rolls of some different baking paper we use here at our studio during the next days for you and prepare to ship in the next days. I always buy the cheapest baking paper. The more expensive ones tend to have a silicon cover that causes problems while painting. Let's get your issue sorted out then.

Ivo answers:
"Thank you so much for the baking paper! I didn't expect to be here so fast and that you will send so much of it! Thank you again! Unfortunately, the problém still occurs. :( I don't know what I'm doing wrong, maybe I'll try the foam from your tutorial. it was a bit better when i added more toilet paper, there is a pretty thick layer of it in my tray. But the paint i still gone after several brush strokes. I am not putting as many of it on my brush, so I don't know where is it going. I guess I'll have to stick with dry palette. But that's okay, i tried it and it works, frankly. So thank you once more, you are my hero!"

Roman:
What colours are you using? Maybe it is the water in your local area? I am really getting excited to solve this problem now :)

Ivo answers:
"I am using mostly old Citadel paint ( for the test I used Ultramarines blue yesterday) with some Vallejo Model Color to it. I was trying this yesterday with some pure baking paper you sent me and it was the same thing over and over again. Now we're talking :D I use distilled water for thinning paint and cleaning my brushes. But if I may recommend you, dont' help me anymore, it will either drive you mad or you will get mad on me, and I dont want any of these options ;)"

Roman:
Ivo, you are talking to the wrong person, if I should stop helping you. I have a busy week in front of me with private coaching, friends and the Duke of Bavaria. Next week I will do a painting jam with only your topic and we will find someone who finds a solution to that.

Ivo answers:
"Have a nice week Roman! ;)

Another Painting Jam rolling in ...
I hope you enjoy...

Roon asks via mail:

"Prior to the paintworkshop in december I wanted to ask you for some advice. 

So far I don't have experience painting display models, and hope to improve this during the workshop. 

I have a small miniature called little 'Thulu ( I believe from MEOW miniatures?). There have been several painted versions of it on the internet, and it inspired me to make my own version. Here's why: the miniature has one big eye looking, and one almost closed. The big eye made me think of (here it comes...) SpongeBob SquarePants. So Cthulhu being in the water as is SpongeBob made those characters connect into the miniature. I wanted to paint the mini yellow like Spongebob, with his big eye blue. But I'm afraid I won't get enough contrast with the yellow mini on the base, since I thought of a sand/seabottom base. So to give the scene more contrast I thought of it to place a small pink seastar (Patrick) on the base as well. 

Ok, ok here finally comes that question: do you think it will have enough contrast all together? Or do you have some advice how to improve this? There is no hurry to give an answer, as I want to use the learned skills from the workshop before I take on this project." 


My answer:

Yeah I know the figure.
Already painted it myself and it is a lot of fun indeed.
A yellow figure on a yellow sandy base wil definatly not use its maximal contrast ability.
I would seperate the base in two parts. For example having the figure standing on top of a underwater rock (painted dark, blueish black grey with gentle highlights, maybe some shells there). The rock could be on top of the sand, so you have the a dark seperation between the two bright parts (figure/sand). This could help making the scene not only yellow and make it clearer to the eyes of the viewer. You even could add some underwater plants here and there to make the base more detailed.

I hope my thoughts help you!

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Aleksey asks via mail:

"Good day or night, Roman!

I decided to write this letter because i have a terrible questions about painting miniatures ... 

I`ve learnt how to prepare minis also learnt to prime but i have a real barrier to begin painting! This is big stone wall in front of me that don`t allow me to understand the principles of miniature painting. (0)

I want to ask you: what is in the beginning? (1) I saw different paint manufacturers with its huge paint sets, a lot of brushes and other painting stuff. But i cannot decide what i need. (2) 

Another my big problem that i cannot understand how to choose main paint scheme right. (3)

I decided to repeat painting process in your wip "Step by Step - Daemonette 1.0 ". I like this set of Demonettes too. They are beauties :) And here we can see my another painting phobia. I afraid of miniature waste. If i get new mini and began to paint it i can do something wrong. And mini will be lost... (4)
 
Also i bought many DVD about miniature painting. But i cannot investigate for myself the beginning of this process. (5) Please give me the advices about my problems. What paints i need to buy? (6)
 
Can i buy a several colors or huge paintset? How can i decide a right paint scheme? Can i ask you a questions about colors in your Demonette wip particulary? (7)"


My answer:

These are particular some interesting questions and I would love to help you out of the "mysery" that you explain. I put numbers to your questions and will answer them by using the numbers.

(0)  "I`ve learnt how to prepare minis also learnt to prime but i have a real barrier to begin painting! This is big stone wall in front of me that don`t allow me to understand the principles of miniature painting. "

Go easy with yourselve. Miniature Painting is such a complex thing, you just can't learn everything when you are about to take the first step. Don't see the big wall ... see a big alley you are walking, with cherry trees and you pick the cherries you like to study them and learn them and use them on your way of the miniature painter. Easy, miniature painting is like building up muscles, hard work, training, but still a lot of fun. Or do you think this guy did get his arms without hard training.

No really I mean what I say about that. Go easy on yourselve and don't put too much pressure on you. Miniature painting is a great hobby, do not destroy it with fear of doing failures or too high expectations. The only thing you can learn it is by painting. It is not about talking about painting, not about reading about painting, not about watching DVDs - it is just the painting that you do on your table that pushes you forward, because you will fail during your studies and you will fail on your goals, but with that mistakes you learn how to ask the right questions to other painters on how to improve and get the right answers. Your muscle will grow, but not without painting.

Don't try to understand all which is out there about figure painting at once - you just can't. Go step by step. So I think it is a good thing that you asked me those questions. I try to help you as good as I can, but always remember, these are just my thoughts and they don't have to be perfect for you. Pick your cherries! Thanks for letting me answer this in public - I hope this might also help some others.

1) What is the Beginning?

And in the beginning there was chaos and from chaos your passion will rise and ... blablubb ... ok, well, I can understand you about being unsecure on where to invest money. There are so many things outthere and so many different brands and so many more stuff that many are talking about - definatly not an easy decision. Again, keep it simple. Walk the alley and pick what you might need. This guide should help you choosing the essentials that will help you on your way of the figure painter.

2) What do you need for the start?

You don't need all of that in the beginning, but brushes, primer and colours ... and a wetpalette, a cutting knife for cleaning and a lamp is money well spent. The rest grows from itself. If you have a look on this article which shows you different brands, you might see that my own collection also grew from small too big. I suggest buying a red, green, blue, yellow, white, black and some brown and sandy tones for a healthy start. Even you won't have all the colours available with that you can still mix them by your own. For example red and blue gives purple. The White and Black can be mixed into those colours to make them darker or brighter. Go with 2 brushes. My recommandation is the Windsor & Newton Series 7 (long, not short) in Scale 1 and 0. Great brushes, great to work with. I don't think you need a big painting set for the start. Maybe buy those colours I have mentioned from different brands to see which one you like the most. I personally prefer Vallejo Model Colour and Games Workshop colours.


3) Another my big problem that i cannot understand how to choose main paint scheme right.

Well this is not so easy to explain, but I found this guide that could really help you with its theory. It's simple but effective. Now starts the hard work, read it, make notes for yourselve while painting, understand it, learn from it. There is no perfect formula for the perfect colour scheme. You will not find it by searching, just by painting. Inspiration is everywhere, for example if you see an Artwork you really like or see a scene from a Movie where you love the colours ... BOOM ... give that colour scheme a try on one of your figures. Again you see the experience comes from the act of painting.

4) If i get new mini and began to paint it i can do something wrong. And mini will be lost... 

I can tell you one truth when you starting with painting by showing you my very first figure:


This is my first painted figure, ever. And it is nothing I feel ashamed of or think that the figure is lost. I had my fun and joy painting it. You can see again - experience grows as a muscle, by training. For sure you will get some results that you are not happy with, but you are not allowed to take these as failures that kills the figure. These are your steps while learning to paint. You just can't paint and already have all teh experience. It needs time to grow. If you are feeling bad painting up an expensive model, if you are scared of "destryoing" it by painting it ... start with simpler testing models. Really this thought will get you nowhere, change it. Every figure is a step, sometimes you go a step forward and sometimes you go three back. It's normal, that is how learning works.


5) 6) have been answered in the upper answers already ...

7) Can i ask you a questions about colors in your Demonette wip particulary?

Sure, go ahead via mail :)
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Rik asks via facebook:

"Good evening mr. Lappat, I'm following the interview for sunshine and moonbeam. 

You talked about "focusing" on winning prizes is something not very worthy, but enjoing the hobby would be a lot better. I totally agree, my question is: does this help in being reknown among people who ask for paintjobs (high level in your case)? According to the fact you paint for living. I also paint for living, but at the moment we are lightyears far from each other. Thank you very much, hope to write you soon. "

My answer:

A competition is definatly not a bad thing and winning an award can be a great thing. What I wanted to say is if you are focusing only on the winning aspect, you will lose in the end. You can lose your passion for the one thing that you love: sit down and paint figures. Don't take competitions too serious or the dark side can swallow your passion. Take it as a chance to compete with others but always keep in mind that a contest is judged by judges, which are also only humans and the result of a contest always depends what other projects there are from different painters. I always try to paint what I want to paint and if there is a competition I bring the pieces that are ready. In rare cases I prepared myself for a contest and in the end it is only about the time management that comes from such a preparation: you have to finish your project in time. It is best to not think about winning or loosing during the work on this project as this will get you nowhere.

I will be very honest with you: Sure it does help to get a bigger name in the industry if you are able to win a prize. This will also lead to comissions. It is that way, but I can tell you from my point of view and my way I have went while starting to do a living from it. I never did participate in the Golden Demon in the early years, just started to enter three years ago. When I started I tried to give the best that I could with my comissions, always have a win-win situation for me and the comissioner, be friendly, honest, good in what you offer to do, good in what you do and help others. That is why I write so many articles, because I am able to help others. Somehow this made my internet nickname and my painting as 'jarhead' "famous". It was not taking part in competitions. There are different ways to handle that and that was just my way. There are other painters outthere who focus on the competition painting to carve their name in a stone to never be forgotten and get comissions. This also works, it is just what you prefer.

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So far, keep on happy painting to everyone - I hope my answers helped!
Best Wishes
Roman

A quick Painting Jam drops in ...


Joel asks ...

"Dear Roman,





My answer ...

Well, I like naked boobs so I am totally fine with the front view of the figure.
I do like the idea of the magic that happens on the back with the dragon tattoo. I also like the idea of clothing somewhere. I think what could help you now is to think of  the athmospheric feeling your lady there is in right now. I could imagine her dropping her clothes in front of a mighty sword fighting champion, presented as a gift to honour him or maybe in front of her lover. Means different situations of her eyes and the look she has, but one thing is for sure... the clothes are dropping ... so not much of is needed to explain the situation:

Example 1 -the Act of Undressing

Example 2 - just a second later should be your sculpt

Example 3 - just with a Kimono

Hope my answer helped you!
Would love to see on how you give that a try!
Keep on happy painting and sculpting to Switzerland!

Best Wishes
Roman

PS: 
Hi Margot, welcome to the Jungle! 
Happy to see you here! :)

Aloa!
Painting Jam time - check this link for more FAQs. 
Let's get it on ...


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Ian asks via mail:

"How long does it take you to completely finish a standard 28mm-32mm mini? (1) 
Do you usually finish a project first before moving on to the next? (2)
And do you start any project using an airbrush for basecoating and pre-shading? (3)

 Sorry for thes many questions, I'm just curious how long you guys can finish a mini. Thanks in advance....  "


My answer:

1) Always depends on the figure and its complexity. For example a casual Rank and File Space Marine can be painted in high quality in one day to make him a great gaming figure. Also a casual Rank and File Space Marine can be painted in one week's work to make him a showcase figure. Another example shows that a complex Space Marine character can also be painted in the work of several weeks to make him a competition showcase figure. It is not easy to tell. Always depends on the project.

2) No. I have way to many Work in Progress Projects.

3) Yes. The Airbrush is a good help for the first steps, even more when the areas are big for example at a 75 mm figure.

No problem, I hope my answers could have helped you.

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 Finn asks via mail:

"I was just wondering about how to go about how to go about making a cool base for my nurgle lord...



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 Timo asks via CMON:

"I bought your Figure Art book few weeks ago, and there was many really nice full page pictures of your minis. Now some of those snow bases looks really great. A frozen moment is specially cool (no pun intented). 

As you may have sometimes checked my gallery, you would notice that I have done some snow bases, but I still would like to get some ideas and tips. What materials you use and do you use some kind of a special techniques? Like it seems to me that you have created nice looking partially melted snow or sleet. How do you create that? I use mainly baking soda (or food soda, whatever it is called) I have also still water, water effect and some different snow products."

My answer:

I hope those help you, directly from the jungle's article archives:


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So far,
keep on happy painting!
Best wishes
Roman