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Kibum Pink Cat Beanie

This document provides a crochet pattern for a hat with specific measurements and materials required. It includes detailed instructions for creating the hat body, earflaps, and tassels, along with abbreviations and gauge information. The finished hat measures approximately 10.5 inches wide and 6.75 inches tall, with a circumference of about 23 inches.

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Alicia Marie
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
33 views4 pages

Kibum Pink Cat Beanie

This document provides a crochet pattern for a hat with specific measurements and materials required. It includes detailed instructions for creating the hat body, earflaps, and tassels, along with abbreviations and gauge information. The finished hat measures approximately 10.5 inches wide and 6.75 inches tall, with a circumference of about 23 inches.

Uploaded by

Alicia Marie
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Materials:

About 180 meters of weight 4 worsted yarn

5.5mm crochet hook

Tapestry needle

Gauge: 13 sts in 10 rows in hdcs in the round = 4” (10cm)

Finished Measurements

Hat width: 10.5 in or 26.5 cm

Hat height: 6.75 in or 17 cm

Circumference: ~23 in or 58.5 cm

Earflap height: 6 in or 15 cm

Abbreviations:

Ch = chain

St(s) = stitch(es)

Sl st = slip stitch

Hdc = half-double crochet. Yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops

on hook.

Hdc2tog = half-double crochet two together. Yarn over and pull up a loop in the next 2 sts, yarn

over and pull through all loops on hook

BL = back loop of stitch.


Body

This hat is worked in a round except for the earflaps, so the right side of the work should always

be facing outwards

Notes: I used the technique from this video to achieve straight seams when working in the

round. I suggest keeping count of your stitches every row because it’s easy to accidentally add

or skip a stitch in the join. You can join the rows with a slip stitch like normal, but you’ll likely

have a visible seam that slants. However, using the normal slip stitch join shouldn’t affect the

measurements of the hat!

Ch 70 stitches and join in the round, making sure not to twist the chain. I joined mine to the back

bump and worked my first round in the back bumps of the chain.

*Rnd 1. Ch 2, hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in every st until end of row, sl st to the first hdc. (Note:

the chain 2 at the beginning of the row does not count as a stitch!)

Rnd 2. Ch 1, hdc in the next st (not where the sl st is), 1 hdc in every st until end of row, put the

last hdc over the ch 1 into the sl st from the previous round.**

Repeat from * to ** 7 more times for a total of 16 rows, or until you reach the height you want.

Join the last round using the invisible join and weave the end of the yarn on the wrong side of

the hat.

Note: You can sl st along the top to close the hat now, but I found it easier to leave it

open when working on the earflaps.

To close it now, turn the work inside out and sl st the BLs together.
Earflaps

Find the last hdc of the first round and mark it. Count 31 more sts and place a second stitch

marker. Turn the work upside down.

Row 1. Join yarn with a standing hdc in the first st you marked. *1 hdc in the next 15 sts, turn

work. (16 sts)

Row 2. Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, hdc2tog next two sts, 10 hdc, hdc2tog next two sts, hdc in last

st, turn work. (14 sts)

Row 3. Ch 1, hdc in same st, hdc until end of row, turn work. (14 sts)

Row 4. Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, hdc2tog next two sts, 8 hdc, hdc2tog next two sts, hdc in last st,

turn work. (12 sts)

Row 5. Ch 1, hdc in same st, hdc until end of row, turn work. (12 sts)

Row 6. Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, hdc2tog next two sts, 6 hdc, hdc2tog next two sts, hdc in last st,

turn work. (10 sts)

Row 7. Ch 1, hdc in same st, hdc until end of row, turn work. (10 sts)

Row 8. Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, hdc2tog next two sts, 4 hdc, hdc2tog next two sts, hdc in last st,

turn work. (8 sts)

Row 9. Ch 1, hdc in same st, hdc until end of row, turn work. (8 sts)

Row 10. Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, hdc2tog next two sts, 2 hdc, hdc2tog next two sts, hdc in last

st, turn work. (6 sts)

Row 11. Ch 1, hdc in same st, hdc until end of row, turn work. (6 sts)

Row 12. Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, hdc2tog next two sts, hdc2tog next two sts, hdc in last st, cut

and fasten off yarn. Weave ends on inside of earflap.** Left earflap made.

Starting from your second stitch marker, repeat from * to ** to create the right earflap.Turn the

work upside down.


Closing the Top

Turn the work inside out with the longer edge facing you.

To make sure both sides are even, count 6 sts in from both

side of the longer opening and pin it to the first sts of the

smaller opening behind. At the top, sl st the BLs together

until you reach the other side. Cut and weave the end of

your yarn on the wrong side of the hat.

Turn the work inside out. Attach the yarn to any corner of

the brim and sl st around edges of the hat and the

earflaps.

Making the Tassels

Here’s the video I used showing how to attach the yarn to make the braids.

Cut 9 pieces of yarn that are about 22 in or 56 cm long. Separate the yarn into 3 groups and fold

them in half. Attach each group along the bottom of an earflap so they are tied next to each

other. Braid down about 6 inches and then tie off the ends using a scrap piece of yarn. Trim the

ends to the same length. Do the same to the other earflap.

To make my tassels puffier I cut out about more pieces of yarn that were double the length of

the tassel ends. Using a tapestry needle or a small crochet hook I inserted half of each piece

into where I tied off the braids, spacing it out so it hides the yarn tying the braid. Then about ½ in

or 1.5 cm down I tied it off again and weaved the tails tying it back up into the braid. Then trim

all the ends to the same length again.

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