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Knit dress for sizes

M-L - sample shown

(in red) with bust circumference 94-102
cm = 37-40’’, hips up to 105 cm = 41.5’’;

(L-XL) (in blue) with bust 104-112

cm = 41-44’’, hips up to 115 cm = 45’’;

2XL-3XL (in green) with bust 115-123

cm = 45-48.5’’, hips up to 125 cm = 49’’;

(3XL-4XL) (in lilac) with bust 125-134

cm = 49-53’’, hips up to 136 cm = 53.5’’.

This tutorial is written in one colour

(blue), changes for other sizes are
highlighted in different colours. If
there is only one colour, it applies
to all sizes. If your bust circumference
is between the sizes choose a closest
smaller size - this dress has enough
stretch at the bottom. The sleeves are
rather wide, thus, knitting a bigger size
is not recommended unless your bust
is considerably larger than hips - then
knit the size of your bust.

1 - collar length 28 cm = 11’’

length from neck to cuff 1 (optional; length can be
Schematic: 47 cm = 18.5‘’ excluding collar
regulated as you go)
All measurements are 2
taken flat, after washing. 2 - sleeve all around
length from
Sleeves will be stretched 42(46)50.5(54.5) cm
cuff length shoulder
16.5’’(18’’)20’’(21.5’’)
downward and become 28 cm = 11’’ (can be to bottom
narrower. During knitting regulated as you go) 87 cm
= 34.3‘’ 3 - hem all around, not stretched
the width of sleeves is
108(118.5)128.5(139) cm
the same as in Front and
3 42.5’’(46.7’’)50.6’’(54.7’’)
Back parts. hem can be stretched sideways
and become 10 cm = 4’’ wider

Feel free to share photos of your completed dress on our website http://mycrochet.conceptcreative.store/ ,
Ravelry, knit forums and communities! Please do not share charts and assembly layout! Thank you!

Copyright © 2021 All rights reserved. Any reprinting, transmitting, reproducing, publishing or otherwise using
for commercial purposes parts of this tutorial is strictly prohibited without my prior written permission.

1
 Needles: 2.5 mm for main pattern or others to obtain
gauge, cable needle. 2 mm needles for rib - use circular
knitting needles for the bottom of the body and 5
double pointed needles for collar and sleeve cuffs.

gauge in
stockinette stitch
22 stitches
x 30 rows = gauge
10 x 10 cm = 4’’ x 4’’
Achieving correct
width 22 or 22.5
sts is crucial!

Adjustments to sizes will be done in sections

worked in stockinette stitch. Take time to
check gauge, wash, dry it flat (do not pin it).
If the width is correct, but the length of rows is smaller
use bigger needles and vice versa. If your swatch is
wider than stated take a thinner yarn and vice versa.

Yarn in the sample shown (8 thin strands held together): 1 wool strand
ravelry.com/yarns/library/moscow-yarn-company-lidiya-wool- and 7 linen-rayon
For dress without collar
strands ravelry.com/yarns/library/colourmart-linen-viscose-2-30nm-lace-wt-blixen
take 1840 (2020) 2200
The resulting thickness of yarn equals 8 ply (UK) = DK = 3 = Light (USA).
(2385) meters / 2010
Note that yarns in separate strands that were not twisted together produce (2210) 2410 (2610) yards.
denser fabric than well-twisted yarns. The length of the dress may vary
For collar (28 cm = 11’’
slightly if yarn contains stretchy fibers like rayon, silk, bamboo.
long) add 330 m /360
You may take thin merino/silk/linen; merino/rayon/goat blend or merino yards of the same yarn.
wool 2 ply (UK) = Cobweb = 0 = Lace (USA), for example:
ravelry.com/yarns/library/colourmart-merino-silk-linen-2-72nm-cobweb-wt
ravelry.com/yarns/library/natural-fantasy-dharan
ravelry.com/yarns/library/colourmart-extra-fine-merino-2-44nm-cobweb-wt
and knit with 5, 6, 7, 8 etc. strands so that their total length per in 100 gr is close to 220 m (240 yards). To
know the exact number of strands check the length of yarn per 100 gr, divide this length by 4, 5 or 6 or 7
strands and use the number of strands that is closer to 220 m in 100 gr (240 yards in 3.5 oz). For example:
if yarn has 2000 m per 100 gr take 9 strands: 2000 m/10 = 220 m;
if yarn has 1700 m per 100 gr take 8 strands: 1700 m/8 = 213 m;
if yarn has 1500 m per 100 gr take 7 strands: 1500 m/7 = 214 m;
if yarn has 1300 m per 100 gr take 6 strands: 1300 m/6 = 217 m.

Or knit this dress with 1 strand of 8 ply (UK) = DK = 3 = Light (USA)

wool/silk; wool/linen/rayon; or wool/linen blend, for example Additional
ravelry.com/yarns/library/malabrigo-yarn-silky-merino materials:
ravelry.com/yarns/library/manos-del-uruguay-silk-blend
8 markers or
ravelry.com/yarns/library/knit-picks-gloss-dk
safety pins
ravelry.com/yarns/library/rowan-baby-merino-silk-dk

2
 Abbreviations:
RS - right side, WS - wrong side, R - row, st(s) - stitch (es), yo - yarn over, k - knit, p - purl, k2tog - knit 2 sts
together, p2tog - purl 2 sts together, BL - back loop, k2togBL - knit 2 sts together through their back loop.

graphic
explanation
symbols

kBL - knit 1 st through the back loop - on RS;

pBL - purl 1 st through the loop that is closer to you - on WS
pBL - purl 1 st through the loop that is closer to you - on RS;
kBL - knit 1 st through the back loop - on WS
yarn over (yo once)
double yarn over (yo twice) - counts as 1 stitch in next round
k2togBL - knit two sts together through back loops (insert the right
needle though the back loops of two stitches at once, knit them)
p2tog - purl two sts together on RS (insert the right needle though
loops of two stitches at once, purl them); the lean does not matter
slip first two sts onto cable needle and hold in the back, knit 3rd st (it will be
over two slipped sts), yo once, knit two slipped sts from the cable needle
slip 1st st in the beginning of rows (without knitting it)

In all diagrams stitches are charted as the pattern goes without skipping any row. Work back and
forth; read rows worked on RS from right to left and rows worked on WS from left to right. RS rows
are with even numbers; WS rows are with odd numbers. Beginning of R. is indicated with number
on the right or on the left side in diagram 1.
NOTES:

1st st and last st are drawn in black. I usually slip 1st st and purl last st. 1st st is drawn in the beginning
of R. as a diagonal line going from left bottom corner to right upper corner of respective cell. Last st
is drawn in the end of R. as purl st.
It does not matter whether p2tog is right-leaning or left-leaning on WS, but make sure you work
p2tog the same way throughout this pattern.
Though Back, Front and each Sleeve are started the same way I suggest working in the following order:
1st Sleeve, Back, Front, 2nd Sleeve. This stitch pattern is quite stretchy - the width of your stretched
rows in each part should be at least 53(58)63(68) cm / 20.9’’(22.8’’)24.8’’(26.8’’) before decreases.

SLEEVE (make two)

Using any method cast on 85 (93) 101 (109) sts.
R.1 (will be on WS): slip 1st st, purl each next st = 85 (93) 101 (109) sts. You will have this number of sts in
every R. until the decreases start. YO twice always counts as 1 stitch and is worked as 1 stitch in next row.
Work main pattern in rows back and forth as described below and shown in diagram 1. This
stitch pattern will look mirrorlike from the middle of each row until you start decreasing.

3
 For correcting errors easily main pattern is divided into sections: A, B, C and D,
these sections are separated in written instructions as follows:
sts of section A are described from * to *,
sts of section B are described from ** to **,
sts of section C are written in [brackets],
sts of section D are in {{brackets}} - please work number of sts stated for your size.
If you are stuck please reread respective section or refer to diagram 1 to correct your mistake(s) in this or
in previous R.

R.2 (RS; sections A,B, C, D are highlighted in colours): R.2 (the same R, but written without
st
slip 1 st, k1, then colour-highlighting):
*p1, yo once, k1, p1, k1, p1, p2tog, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1* slip 1st st, k1, *p1, yo once, k1, p1, k1,
= one section A p1, p2tog (between yo and p2tog are 4 sts),
{{purl 2(3)4(5), knit1, purl 2(3)4(5)}} = one section D k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 = section A*,
{{purl 2(3)4(5), k1, purl 2(3)4(5)
[k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1] = one section C,
= section D}},
{{purl 2(3)4(5), knit1, purl 2(3)4(5)}} = one section D
[k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 = section C],
**k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo** work sts in {{brackets}} once,
= one section B **k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1,
*p1, yo once, k1, p1, k1, p1, p2tog, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1* yo once (between p2tog and yo are 4 sts)
= one section A = section B**,
{{purl 2(3)4(5), knit1, purl 2(3)4(5)}} = one section D work sts from * to * once,
[k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1] = one section C work sts in {{brackets}} once,
work sts in [brackets] once,
{{purl 2(3)4(5), knit1, purl 2(3)4(5)}} = one section D
work sts in {{brackets}} once,
**k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo**
work sts from ** to ** once,
= one section B, then p1, k1, purl last st.
p1, k1, purl last st.

R.3 (WS): slip 1st st, p1, k1, **p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1 = section B**,
{{knit 2(3)4(5), p1, knit 2(3)4(5) = section D}}, [p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1 = section C],
work sts in {{brackets}} once, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1 = section A*,
work sts from ** to ** once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts in [brackets]
once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts from * to * once, p1, purl last st.

R.4 (RS): slip 1st st, k1, *p1, k1, yo twice, k1, p1, k1, p1, p2tog (between yo and
p2tog are 4 sts), p1, k1, p1, k1 = section A*,
working k2togBL in section C
{{purl 2(3)4(5), k1, purl 2(3)4(5) = section D}},
[k1, p1, k2togBL, yo twice, k1, p1, k1 = section C],
work sts in {{brackets}} once,
**k1, p1, k1, p1, p2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo twice
(between p2tog and yo are 4 sts), k1 = section B**,
work sts from * to * once, work sts in {{brackets}}
once, work sts in [brackets] once, work sts in
{{brackets}} once, work sts from ** to ** once, p1,
k1, purl last st.

4
diagram 1 -
main pattern
RS rows: all
rows with
even numbers
WS rows: all
rows with
odd numbers;
thus, in R.1
purl all sts

rows shown
with grey
background
are repeated
constantly

5
R.5 (WS; in sections A, B and C alternate p1 with k1): R.8 (RS): slip 1st st, k1, *p1, k1, p1, k1, yo
slip 1st st, p1, k1, **p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, twice, k1, p1, k1, p1, p2tog (between yo
k1, p1, k1, p1 = section B**, and p2tog are 4 sts), p1, k1 = section A*,
{{knit 2(3)4(5), p1, knit 2(3)4(5) = section D}}, {{purl 2(3)4(5), k1, purl 2(3)4(5) = section D}},
[p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1 = section C], work sts in [k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 = section C],
{{brackets}} once, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, work sts in {{brackets}} once, **k1, p1, p2tog,
k1, p1, k1 = section A*, work sts from ** to ** once, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo twice (between p2tog
work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts in [brackets] and yo are 4 sts), k1, p1, k1 = section B**,
once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts from * work sts from * to * once, work sts in
to * once, p1, purl last st. {{brackets}} once, work sts in [brackets]
R.6 (RS): slip 1st st, k1, *p1, k1, p1, yo twice, once, work sts in {{brackets}} once,
k1, p1, k1, p1, p2tog (between yo and p2tog are work sts from ** to ** once,
4 sts), k1, p1, k1 = section A*, p1, k1, purl last st.
{{purl 2(3)4(5), k1, purl 2(3)4(5) = section D}}, R.9 (WS; in sections A, B and C alternate p1
[k1, p1, k2togBL, yo twice, k1, p1, k1 = section C], with k1): work as R.5.
work sts in {{brackets}} once, R.10 (RS): slip 1st st, k1, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1,
**k1, p1, k1, p2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo twice yo twice, k1, p1, k1, p1, p2tog (between
(between p2tog and yo are 4 sts), p1, k1 = section B**, yo and p2tog are 4 sts), k1 = section A*,
work sts from * to * once, work sts in {{brackets}} {{purl 2(3)4(5), k1, purl 2(3)4(5) = section D}},
once, work sts in [brackets] once, work sts [k1, p1, slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in
in {{brackets}} once, work sts from ** to ** once, the back, knit 3rd st, yo once, k2togBL from the
p1, k1, purl last st. cable needle (see photos), p1, k1 = section C],
R.7 (WS): slip 1st st, p1, k1, **p1, k1, p2, k1, work sts in {{brackets}} once, **k1, p2tog, p1,
p1, k1, p2, k1, p1 = section B**, k1, p1, k1, yo twice (between p2tog and yo
{{knit 2(3)4(5), p1, knit 2(3)4(5) = section D}}, are 4 sts), p1, k1, p1, k1 = section B**,
[p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1 = section C], work work sts from * to * once, work sts in
sts in {{brackets}} once, *p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, {{brackets}} once, work sts in [brackets]
k1, p1, k1 = section A*, work sts from ** to ** once, once, work sts in {{brackets}} once,
work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts in work sts from ** to ** once,
[brackets] once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, p1, k1, purl last st.
work sts from * to * once, p1, purl last st.
slip 2 sts on cable needle rd
knit 3 st - after yo insert
(hold in the back)
the right needle
though the back
loops of two
slipped sts at once

k2togBL from the cable needle R.10 - section C

6
R.11 (WS): slip 1st st, p1, k1, **p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2 = section B**,
{{knit 2(3)4(5)6, p1, knit 2(3)4(5)6 = section D}}, [p1, k1, p3, k1, p1 = section C],
work sts in {{brackets}} once, *p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 = section A*,
work sts from ** to ** once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts in [brackets]
once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts from * to * once, p1, purl last st.
R.12 (RS): slip 1st st, k1, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo twice, k1, p1, k1, p1,
p2tog (between yo and p2tog are 4 sts) = section A*, {{purl 2(3)4(5), R.12 - section C
k1, purl 2(3)4(5) = section D}}, [slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold
in the back, knit 3rd st, yo once, k2togBL from the cable needle, k1,
slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in the back, knit 3rd st, yo once,
k2togBL from the cable needle = section C], work sts in {{brackets}}
once, **p2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo twice (between p2tog and yo are 4
sts), k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 = section B**, work sts from * to * once, work
sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts in [brackets] once, work sts in
{{brackets}} once, work sts from ** to ** once, p1, k1, purl last st.
R.13 (WS; in sections A and B alternate p1 with k1): slip 1st st, p1, k1, **p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1,
p1, k1, p1, k1, p1 = section B**, {{knit 2(3)4(5), p1, knit 2(3)4(5) = section D}}, [p7 = section C],
work sts in {{brackets}} once, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 = section A*,
work sts from ** to ** once, work sts in {{ brackets}} once, [p7 = section C], work sts in
{{brackets}} once, work sts from * to * once, p1, purl last st.
R.14 (RS): slip 1st st, k1, *p1, yo once, k1, p1, k1, p1, p2tog (between yo R.14 - section C
and p2tog are 4 sts), k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 = section A*, {{purl 2(3)4(5),
k1, purl 2(3)4(5) = section D}}, [k2, slip 2 sts onto cable needle and
hold in the back, knit 3rd st, yo once, k2togBL from the cable needle,
k2 = section C], work sts in {{brackets}} once, **k1, p1, k1, p1, k1,
p2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo once (between p2tog and yo are 4 sts) =
section B**, work sts from * to * once, work sts in {{brackets}} once,
work sts in [brackets] once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts
from ** to ** once, p1, k1, purl last st.
R.15 (WS): slip 1st st, p1, k1, **p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1 = section B**, {{knit 2(3)4(5),
p1, knit 2(3)4(5) = section D}}, [p7 = section C], work sts in {{brackets}} once, *p1, k1, p1, k1,
p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1 = section A*, work sts from ** to ** once, work sts in {{brackets}} once,
[p7 = section C], work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts from * to * once, p1, purl last st.
R.16 (RS): slip 1st st, k1, *p1, k1, yo twice, k1, p1, k1, p1, p2tog
R.16 - section C
(between yo and p2tog are 4 sts), p1, k1, p1, k1 = section A*, {{purl
2(3)4(5), k1, purl 2(3)4(5) = section D}}, [slip 2 sts onto cable needle
and hold in the back, knit 3rd st, yo once, k2togBL from the cable
needle, k1, slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in the back, knit 3rd
st, yo once, k2togBL from the cable needle = section C], work sts in
{{brackets}} once, **k1, p1, k1, p1, p2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo twice
(between p2tog and yo are 4 sts), k1 = section B**, work sts from *
to * once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts in [brackets] once,
work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts from ** to ** once, p1, k1,
purl last st.

7
R.17 (WS; in sections A, B alternate p1 with k1): slip 1st st, p1, k1, **p1, k1, p1,
k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1 = section B**, {{knit 2(3)4(5), p1, knit 2(3)4(5) =
section D}}, [p1, k1, p3, k1, p1 = section C], work sts in {{brackets}} once, *p1,
k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 = section A*, work sts from ** to **
once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts in [brackets] once, work sts in
{{brackets}} once, work sts from * to * once, p1, purl last st.
R.18 (RS): slip 1st st, k1, *p1, k1, p1, yo twice, k1, p1, k1, p1, p2tog
(between yo and p2tog are 4 sts), k1, p1, k1 = section A*, {{purl R.18 - section C
2(3)4(5), k1, purl 2(3)4(5) = section D}}, [k1, p1, slip 2 sts onto cable
needle and hold in the back, knit 3rd st, yo once, k2togBL from the
cable needle, p1, k1 = section C], work sts in {{brackets}} once,
**k1, p1, k1, p2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo twice (between p2tog and yo
are 4 sts), p1, k1 = section B**, work sts from * to * once, work sts
in {{brackets}} once, work sts in [brackets] once, work sts in
{{brackets}} once, work sts from ** to ** once, p1, k1, purl last st.
R.19 (WS): work as R.7.
R.20 (RS): work as R.8.
R.21 (WS; in sections A, B and C alternate p1 with k1): work as R.5.
R.22 (RS): slip 1st st, k1, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, yo twice, k1, p1, k1, p1, p2tog (between yo and p2tog are 4
sts), k1 = section A*, {{purl 2(3)4(5), k1, purl 2(3)4(5) = section D}}, [k1, p1, k2togBL, yo twice, k1, p1, k1 =
section C], work sts in {{brackets}} once, **k1, p2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo twice (between p2tog and yo are
4 sts), p1, k1, p1, k1 = section B**, work sts from * to * once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts in
[brackets] once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts from ** to ** once, p1, k1, purl last st.
R.23 (WS): slip 1st st, p1, k1, **p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2 = section B**, {{knit 2(3)4(5), p1, knit
2(3)4(5) = section D}}, [p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1 = section C], work sts in {{brackets}} once, *p2, k1, p1, k1,
p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 = section A*, work sts from ** to ** once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts in
[brackets] once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts from * to * once, p1, purl last st.
R.24 (RS): slip 1st st, k1, *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo twice, k1, p1, k1, p1,
p2tog (between yo and p2tog are 4 sts) = section A*, {{purl 2(3)4(5),
k1, purl 2(3)4(5) = section D}}, [k1, p1, k2togBL, yo twice, k1, p1, k1 =
section C], work sts in {{brackets}} once, **p2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo
twice (between p2tog and yo are 4 sts), k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 = section B**,
work sts from * to * once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts in
[brackets] once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts from ** to **
once, p1, k1, purl last st.
R.25 (WS; in sections A, B and C alternate p1 with k1): work as R.5.

R.26 (RS): slip 1st st, k1, *p1, yo once, k1, p1, k1, p1, p2tog (between yo and p2tog are
4 sts), k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 = section A*, {{purl 2(3)4(5), k1, purl 2(3)4(5) = section D}}, [k1,
p1, k2togBL, yo twice, k1, p1, k1 = section C], work sts in {{brackets}} once, **k1, p1,
k1, p1, k1, p2tog, p1, k1, p1, k1, yo once (between p2tog and yo are 4 sts) = section
B**, work sts from * to * once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts in [brackets]
once, work sts in {{brackets}} once, work sts from ** to ** once, p1, k1, purl last st.

8
 Repeat rows 3-26 until completing 133(123)111(101) rows - equals to R.13(3)15(5) in diagram 1. Lay your
work RS up and mark the left edge. Start decreasing on left edge only from next R.134(124)112(102)
- equals to R.14(4)16(6) in diagram 1. The decreases begin in the end of R. that is worked on RS.

Decrease 1 stitch in each of 3 rows, then work 1 row without decrease: Optionally:
1st R. with decreases (RS): work pattern as established until 2nd and 3rd sts decreases in
D-sections in
decreases in Sleeve

counting from left end, knit these 2 sts together, purl last st.
RS-rows
2nd R. with decreases (WS): slip 1st st, knit next 2 sts together, work pattern as
(worked with
established to the end of R.
purl-sts) can be
3rd R. with decreases (RS): work as 1st R. with decreases. made as p2tog
4th R. without decreases (WS): slip 1st st, work pattern as established to the end. instead of k2tog.

Thus, you will have 3 fewer sts after completing every 4 rows. Repeat these 4 rows constantly
until you decrease from 85 (93) 101 (109) sts to 0.

diagram 2

This diagram shows an example of decreased 3 sts

every 4 rows in sections A and B in the middle. Every 4
rows with 3 decreased sts are bordered with lilac line [.
Notice that in rows pointed with pink arrows p2tog were
shifted to the right to work them the same number of times
as yo in the same rows and nevertheless decrease 1 st.
You can shift p2tog differently or decrease 3rd time in 4th R.
(instead of decreasing in 3rd R) - it does not matter as long
as you keep the rhythm of decreases 3 sts every 4 rows.
Optionally:
decreases in D-sections in RS-rows
(worked with purl-sts) can be made as
p2tog instead of k2tog.

9
When you decrease pay attention to the number of purl2together and yo in all sections closer to the left
edge with decreases:

In each row work p2tog the same number of times as you worked yo - if you worked yo 4
times you need to work p2tog 4 times in the same row. One p2tog counts as a compensator
note on the number
of yo and purl2tog

of one yo and not as one decrease. If you worked four p2tog in one row and have to add fifth
yo you will have 1 excessive stitch, thus, you will have either to omit this 5th yo or k2tog twice
in the end of this R. to have 1 st fewer comparing to previous row.

How to decrease if after completing p2tog you have 1 or 2 sts left at the edge with decreases
and therefore cannot knit together 2nd and 3rd sts counting from this left end? - Shift p2tog to
the right to have 3 sts left at the edge with decreases, knit together 2nd and 3rd sts counting
from left end, purl last st.

Diagram 2 shows an example of slanting edge in sections A and B in the middle.

Every 4 rows with 3 decreased sts are bordered with lilac line [. For easier counting
mark 4th R. without decreases to be sure you decreased 3 sts after completing every
4 rows and/or cross the number of sts in already completed rows:

For size M-L (number of sts in next rows):

85, 84, 83, 83 (no decrease), 82, 81, 80, 80 (no decrease), 79, 78, 77, 77 (no decrease), 76, 75, 74, 74 (no decrease),
73, 72, 71, 71 (no decrease), 70, 69, 68, 68 (no decrease), 67, 66, 65, 65 (no decrease), 64, 63, 62, 62 (no decrease),
61, 60, 59, 59 (no decrease), 58, 57, 56, 56 (no decrease), 55, 54, 53, 53 (no decrease), 52, 51, 50, 50 (no decrease),
49, 48, 47, 47 (no decrease), 46, 45, 44, 44 (no decrease), 43, 42, 41, 41 (no decrease), 40, 39, 38, 38 (no decrease),
37, 36, 35, 35 (no decrease), 34, 33, 32, 32 (no decrease), 31, 30, 29, 29 (no decrease), 28, 27, 26, 26 (no decrease),
25, 24, 23, 23 (no decrease), 22, 21, 20, 20 (no decrease), 19, 18, 17, 17 (no decrease), 16, 15, 14, 14 (no decrease),
13, 12, 11, 11 (no decrease), 10, 9, 8, 8 (no decrease), 7, 6, 5, 5 (no decrease), 4, 3, knit 3 sts, finish.
For size L-XL (number of sts in next rows):
93, 92, 91, 91 (no decrease), 90, 89, 88, 88 (no decrease), 87, 86, 85, 85 (no decrease), 84, 83, 82, 82 (no decrease),
81, 80, 79, 79 (no decrease), 78, 77, 76, 76 (no decrease), 75, 74, 73, 73 (no decrease), 72, 71, 70, 70 (no decrease),
69, 68, 67, 67 (no decrease), 66, 65, 64, 64 (no decrease), 63, 62, 61, 61 (no decrease), 60, 59, 58, 58 (no decrease),
57, 56, 55, 55 (no decrease), 54, 53, 52, 52 (no decrease), 51, 50, 49, 49 (no decrease), 48, 47, 46, 46 (no decrease),
45, 44, 43, 43 (no decrease), 42, 41, 40, 40 (no decrease), 39, 38, 37, 37 (no decrease), 36, 35, 34, 34 (no decrease),
33, 32, 31, 31 (no decrease), 30, 29, 28, 28 (no decrease), 27, 26, 25, 25 (no decrease), 24, 23, 22, 22 (no decrease),
21, 20, 19, 19 (no decrease), 18, 17, 16, 16 (no decrease), 15, 14, 13, 13 (no decrease), 12, 11, 10, 10 (no decrease),
9, 8, 7, 7 (no decrease), 6, 5, 4, 3, knit 3 sts, finish.
For size 2XL-3XL (number of sts in next rows):
101, 100, 99, 99 (no decrease), 98, 97, 96, 96 (no decrease), 95, 94, 93, 93 (no decrease), 92, 91, 90, 90 (no
decrease), 89, 88, 87, 87 (no decrease), 86, 85, 84, 84 (no decrease), 83, 82, 81, 81 (no decrease), 80, 79, 78, 78
(no decrease), 77, 76, 75, 75 (no decrease), 74, 73, 72, 72 (no decrease), 71, 70, 69, 69 (no decrease), 68, 67, 66,
66 (no decrease), 65, 64, 63, 63 (no decrease), 62, 61, 60, 60 (no decrease), 59, 58, 57, 57 (no decrease), 56, 55,
54, 54 (no decrease), 53, 52, 51, 51 (no decrease), 50, 49, 48, 48 (no decrease), 47, 46, 45, 45 (no decrease), 44,
43, 42, 42 (no decrease), 41, 40, 39, 39 (no decrease), 38, 37, 36, 36 (no decrease), 35, 34, 33, 33 (no decrease),
32, 31, 30, 30 (no decrease), 29, 28, 27, 27 (no decrease), 26, 25, 24, 24 (no decrease), 23, 22, 21, 21 (no decrease),
20, 19, 18, 18 (no decrease), 17, 16, 15, 15 (no decrease), 14, 13, 12, 12 (no decrease), 11, 10, 9, 9 (no decrease),
8, 7, 6, 6 (no decrease), 5, 4, 3, knit 3 sts, finish.

10
 For size 3XL-4XL (number of sts in next rows):

109, 108, 107, 107 (no decrease), 106, 105, 104, 104 (no decrease), 103, 102, 101, 101 (no decrease), 100, 99,
98, 98 (no decrease), 97, 96, 95, 95 (no decrease), 94, 93, 92, 92 (no decrease), 91, 90, 89, 89 (no decrease), 88,
87, 86, 86 (no decrease), 85, 84, 83, 83 (no decrease), 82, 81, 80, 80 (no decrease), 79, 78, 77, 77 (no decrease),
76, 75, 74, 74 (no decrease), 73, 72, 71, 71 (no decrease), 70, 69, 68, 68 (no decrease), 67, 66, 65, 65 (no decrease),
64, 63, 62, 62 (no decrease), 61, 60, 59, 59 (no decrease), 58, 57, 56, 56 (no decrease), 55, 54, 53, 53 (no decrease),
52, 51, 50, 50 (no decrease), 49, 48, 47, 47 (no decrease), 46, 45, 44, 44 (no decrease), 43, 42, 41, 41 (no decrease),
40, 39, 38, 38 (no decrease), 37, 36, 35, 35 (no decrease), 34, 33, 32, 32 (no decrease), 31, 30, 29, 29 (no decrease),
28, 27, 26, 26 (no decrease), 25, 24, 23, 23 (no decrease), 22, 21, 20, 20 (no decrease), 19, 18, 17, 17 (no decrease),
16, 15, 14, 14 (no decrease), 13, 12, 11, 11 (no decrease), 10, 9, 8, 8 (no decrease), 7, 6, 5, 5 (no decrease), 4, 3, knit
3 sts, finish.

Continue for all sizes:

BACK:

Start as described for Sleeve, work rows 1-26 once, repeat rows 3-26 constantly until
completing 122(112)100(100) rows or plus-minus two rows (it won’t make a difference).
In next R. that is worked on WS increase sts for hips in all sections D - work 3(4)5(6) sts
whenever you worked 2(3)4(5) sts. Thus, section D in all even R. (RS) will be purl 3(4)5(6),
k1, purl 3(4)5(6); section D in all odd R. (WS) will be knit 3(4)5(6), p1, knit 3(4)5(6).
Count 93 (101) 109 (117) sts in every R. until the decreases start.

For increasing 1 st
in section D in WS-
row you can pick
the yarn that is seen
between two sts
(pointed with yellow
arrow on the right),
twist it to create a
loop, knit this loop.
In the sample shown
the increase from
2 to 3 sts was made
in R.123, approx. 40
cm = 15.7’’ from R.1.

If you need a dress longer than 87 cm = 34.3‘’

Repeat rows 3-26 with this increased number
you may repeat rows 3-26 once more before
of sts until completing 257(245)235(223) rows -
starting decreases on left edge.
equals to R.17(5)19(7) in diagram 1. Lay your work
RS up and mark the left edge. Start decreasing on Every repeat of these rows increases the
left edge only from next R.258(246)236(224) - length by 5-6 cm = 2-2.4’’. Yarn usage will
equals to R.18(6)20(8) in diagram 1. increase with every repeat!

11
 The decreases begin in the end of R. that is worked on RS.

Bear in mind that the whole edge with decreases in this part will be along the hem of your
dress, so do not tighten it. You could have tightened the edge with decreases in sleeves,
which is fine there. However, try not to tighten this edge in Body-parts as it might affect the
elasticity of the hem. Because 1st slipped st causes some tightening you can knit 1st st in edge
with decreases only (WS-row) instead of slipping this st. Or pull 1st slipped st more than
usually. Straight edge without decreases should be started by slipping 1st st as you did before.

Decrease 1 stitch in each of 4 rows, then work 1 row without decrease:

1st R. with decreases (RS): work pattern as established until 2nd and 3rd sts
counting from left end, knit these 2 sts together, purl last st. Optionally:
nd st
2 R. with decreases (WS): slip 1 st, knit next 2 sts together, work pattern as decreases
established to the end of R. in D-sections
decreases in Back and Front

3rd R. with decreases (RS): work as 1st R. with decreases. in RS-rows

(made with
4th R. with decreases (WS): work as 2nd R. with decreases.
purl-sts) can
5th R. without decreases (RS): work pattern as established to the end of R. be made as
6th R. with decreases (WS): work as 2nd R. with decreases. p2tog instead
of k2tog.
7th R. with decreases (RS): work as 1st R. with decreases.
8th R. with decreases (WS): work as 2nd R. with decreases.
9th R. with decreases (RS): work as 1st R. with decreases.
10th R. without decreases (WS): work pattern as established to the end of R.

You will have 4 fewer sts after completing every 5 rows. Repeat these 10 rows constantly
until you decrease from 93 (101) 109 (117) sts to 0. When you decrease pay attention to
the number of purl2together and yo in all sections closer to the left edge with decreases:
In each row work p2tog the same number of times as you worked yo - if you made yo 4
times you need to work p2tog 4 times in the same R. One p2tog counts as a compensator of
note on the number of

one yo and not as one decrease. If you worked four p2tog in one row and have to add fifth
yo and purl2tog

yo you will have 1 excessive stitch, thus, you will have either to omit this 5th yo or k2tog
twice in the end of this R. to have 1 st fewer comparing to previous R.
How to decrease if after working p2tog you have 1 or 2 sts left at the edge with decreases
and therefore cannot knit together 2nd and 3rd sts counting from this left end? - Shift p2tog
to the right to have 3 sts left at the edge with decreases, knit together 2nd and 3rd sts
counting from left end, purl last st.

An example of slanting edge in edge-section A is shown in diagram 3. For easier

counting mark 5th R. without decreases to be sure you decreased 4 sts after
completing every 5 rows and/or cross the number of sts in already completed rows:

For size M-L (number of sts in next rows):

93, 92, 91, 90, 90 (no decrease), 89, 88, 87, 86, 86 (no decrease), 85, 84, 83, 82, 82 (no decrease), 81, 80, 79, 78,
78 (no decrease), 77, 76, 75, 74, 74 (no decrease), 73, 72, 71, 70, 70 (no decrease), 69, 68, 67, 66, 66 (no decrease),

12
 65, 64, 63, 62, 62 (no decrease), 61, 60, 59, 58, 58 (no decrease), 57, 56, 55, 54, 54 (no decrease), 53, 52, 51, 50, 50
(no decrease), 49, 48, 47, 46, 46 (no decrease), 45, 44, 43, 42, 42 (no decrease), 41, 40, 39, 38, 38 (no decrease), 37,
36, 35, 34, 34 (no decrease), 33, 32, 31, 30, 30 (no decrease), 29, 28, 27, 26, 26 (no decrease), 25, 24, 23, 22, 22 (no
decrease), 21, 20, 19, 18, 18 (no decrease), 17, 16, 15, 14, 14 (no decrease), 13, 12, 11, 10, 10 (no decrease), 9, 8, 7,
6, 6 (no decrease), 5, 4, 3, knit 3 sts, finish.
For size L-XL (number of sts in next rows):
101, 100, 99, 98, 98 (no decrease), 97, 96, 95, 94, 94 (no decrease), 93, 92, 91, 90, 90 (no decrease), 89, 88, 87, 86,
86 (no decrease), 85, 84, 83, 82, 82 (no decrease), 81, 80, 79, 78, 78 (no decrease), 77, 76, 75, 74, 74 (no decrease),
73, 72, 71, 70, 70 (no decrease), 69, 68, 67, 66, 66 (no decrease), 65, 64, 63, 62, 62 (no decrease), 61, 60, 59, 58, 58
(no decrease), 57, 56, 55, 54, 54 (no decrease), 53, 52, 51, 50, 50 (no decrease), 49, 48, 47, 46, 46 (no decrease), 45,
44, 43, 42, 42 (no decrease), 41, 40, 39, 38, 38 (no decrease), 37, 36, 35, 34, 34 (no decrease), 33, 32, 31, 30, 30 (no
decrease), 29, 28, 27, 26, 26 (no decrease), 25, 24, 23, 22, 22 (no decrease), 21, 20, 19, 18, 18 (no decrease), 17, 16,
15, 14, 14 (no decrease), 13, 12, 11, 10, 10 (no decrease), 9, 8, 7, 6, 6 (no decrease), 5, 4, 3, knit 3 sts, finish.

diagram 3
This diagram shows an example of decreased 4 sts
every 5 rows in last sections D and A. Every 5 rows
with 4 decreased sts are bordered with lilac line [.
Notice that in rows pointed with pink arrows p2tog were
shifted to the right to work them the same number of times
as yo in the same rows and nevertheless decrease 1 st.
You can shift p2tog differently or decrease 4th time in 5th R.
(instead of decreasing in 4th R) - it does not matter as long
as you keep the rhythm of decreases 4 sts every 5 rows.
Optionally:
decreases in D-sections in RS-rows
(worked with purl-sts) can be made
as p2tog instead of k2tog.

13
 For size 2XL-3XL (number of sts in next rows):
109, 108, 107, 106, 106 (no decrease), 105, 104, 103, 102, 102 (no decrease), 101, 100, 99, 98, 98 (no decrease),
97, 96, 95, 94, 94 (no decrease), 93, 92, 91, 90, 90 (no decrease), 89, 88, 87, 86, 86 (no decrease), 85, 84, 83, 82, 82
(no decrease), 81, 80, 79, 78, 78 (no decrease), 77, 76, 75, 74, 74 (no decrease), 73, 72, 71, 70, 70 (no decrease), 69,
68, 67, 66, 66 (no decrease), 65, 64, 63, 62, 62 (no decrease), 61, 60, 59, 58, 58 (no decrease), 57, 56, 55, 54, 54 (no
decrease), 53, 52, 51, 50, 50 (no decrease), 49, 48, 47, 46, 46 (no decrease), 45, 44, 43, 42, 42 (no decrease), 41, 40,
39, 38, 38 (no decrease), 37, 36, 35, 34, 34 (no decrease), 33, 32, 31, 30, 30 (no decrease), 29, 28, 27, 26, 26 (no
decrease), 25, 24, 23, 22, 22 (no decrease), 21, 20, 19, 18, 18 (no decrease), 17, 16, 15, 14, 14 (no decrease), 13, 12,
11, 10, 10 (no decrease), 9, 8, 7, 6, 6 (no decrease), 5, 4, 3, knit 3 sts, finish.

For size 3XL-4XL (number of sts in next rows):

117, 116, 115, 114, 114 (no decrease), 113, 112, 111, 110, 110 (no decrease), 109, 108, 107, 106, 106 (no decrease),
105, 104, 103, 102, 102 (no decrease), 101, 100, 99, 98, 98 (no decrease), 97, 96, 95, 94, 94 (no decrease), 93, 92,
91, 90, 90 (no decrease), 89, 88, 87, 86, 86 (no decrease), 85, 84, 83, 82, 82 (no decrease), 81, 80, 79, 78, 78 (no
decrease), 77, 76, 75, 74, 74 (no decrease), 73, 72, 71, 70, 70 (no decrease), 69, 68, 67, 66, 66 (no decrease), 65, 64,
63, 62, 62 (no decrease), 61, 60, 59, 58, 58 (no decrease), 57, 56, 55, 54, 54 (no decrease), 53, 52, 51, 50, 50 (no
decrease), 49, 48, 47, 46, 46 (no decrease), 45, 44, 43, 42, 42 (no decrease), 41, 40, 39, 38, 38 (no decrease), 37, 36,
35, 34, 34 (no decrease), 33, 32, 31, 30, 30 (no decrease), 29, 28, 27, 26, 26 (no decrease), 25, 24, 23, 22, 22 (no
decrease), 21, 20, 19, 18, 18 (no decrease), 17, 16, 15, 14, 14 (no decrease), 13, 12, 11, 10, 10 (no decrease), 9, 8, 7,
6, 6 (no decrease), 5, 4, 3, knit 3 sts, finish.
Continue for all sizes:

You should be able to stretch the slanting edge with decreases

at least to 60(66)72(78) cm / 23.6’’(26’’)28.3(30.7’’).

FRONT: work as Back.

2nd SLEEVE: work the same way as 1st Sleeve

During knitting the width of Sleeves is the same as the width of Front and Back. After all parts
are sewn together you can pull the Sleeves down so that their excessive width turns into length.

BLOCKING:

This pattern is quite stretchable in every direction. Wash all 4 parts, then block as follows:
Lay Front over Back so that their sides are no longer or shorter than the same sides in
another part and their longest side is measured 123 cm = 48.4’’.
Lay Sleeves over each other; their sides should be no longer or shorter than the same
sides in another Sleeve and their longest side is measured 82 cm = 32.3’’.
Check that the width of first rows in all 4 parts is the same. Let all parts dry flat.

Photos on pages 15-18 will help you to sew 4 panels together. Please do
ASSEMBLY (after blocking): not share your own Work-in-Progress-Assembly-Photos on the internet.

Lay all 4 parts on a surface with their RS up as shown in schematic on next page. The opening drawn in
pink is left for the neckline. For joining sts you can use safety pins (as in the sample shown) or markers.

14
In each of 4 parts (called panels further on):
longest
Starting from the corner created by the longest side A side A,
and shortest side of the panel count 43 sts (that were back
casted in R.1) from this corner along the shortest side.

side B
back
Check R.1 in chart if it’s more convenient for counting.
side B
Mark this 43rd stitch in each of 4 panels - see photos

sew
below. With the same safety pin join 1st stitch in longest side A, sew 43 sts
the corner of adjacent panel (the corner created

43 sts
sleeve

43 sts
sleeve,
by the longest side A and shortest side of this sew
43 sts longest side A
panel, where you started the counting).

sew
The square opening will be your neckline and it should side B
be wide enough to put your head through. If you prefer

side B
front
more ease - join next (44th) st in each of 4 panels with
1st st in the corner of adjacent panel. For less ease - join longest
previous (42nd) st in each of 4 panels with 1st st in the side A,
corner of adjacent panel. The opening should have a front
shape of square (thus, if you change the number of sts
for neckline in one panel, the same number of sts
should be changed in other panels).
On every longest side A count down from 1st row 56 (66) 78 (88) rows (1 purl on the edge
counts as two rows, thus, count down 28 (33) 39 (44) purl sts at edge) and place a safety
pin there. With the same safety pin join last stitch in the corner of adjacent short panel as
shown below - you will sew the shortest side of each panel from its marked 43rd st to last
st in its corner (= 42 (50) 58 (66) sts altogether) to the longest side A of adjacent panel
from its 1st row to the marked row (see sew in schematic above).

If you have marked a different st (not 43rd) in the shortest side you still need to sew its last
st in the corner to marked row on the longest side A of adjacent panel.

It’s convenient to sew panels with

baste sts and sewing thread now:

43rd st 43rd st
sew

pins sew
43 sts
43 sts
43 sts

43rd
43rd
43 sts sew
sew

Fold your work along the neck opening: lay Front-panel over Back-panel as shown
on next page. The slanting edges in both Front and Back panels are in the bottom.

15
 sleeve neck
sleeve sleeve neck
sleeve

back
back
front
front

join

Fold bottom corner of the Back-panel as shown above

to connect last st of the Back to 1st decreased st of the Front, join these sts with a safety pin.

sleeve Fold bottom corner of the Front-panel as shown

on the left, using a safety pin join last st worked
in the Front to 1st decreased st of the Back.

sleeve The slanting edges in both Front and Back

panels create hem.

join In each Sleeve join with safety pins last st

front worked in Sleeve to 1st decreased st in the
same Sleeve (side with decreases will be in the
back bottom of Sleeve) - see photo on the left.

hem fold to join

joined last last st in front
st in back
With baste sts and sewing thread sew one
seam starting from the bottom of the
dress and moving to the end of Sleeve:
neck

Start where last st of Back is pinned to

first decreased st of Front:
1. sew the whole side B of the Front
to the longest side A of the Back
working until side B is finished
(when it meets Sleeve).

16
 2. continue sewing the remaining rows of
the longest side A of the Back to rows in
longest side A of the Sleeve (working right neck
under Sleeve part already sewn to Front) -
this seam-part will be mostly at armhole

already
sewn part
the stitches of this pattern are quite elastic -
stretch the sides if necessary to end up at
stitches pinned in Front, Back and Sleeve.

3. continue sewing the remaining rows of

the longest side A and side B in Sleeve
ending at place where Sleeve is pinned at
its bottom - this 3rd part of seam will
wind around the whole Sleeve.

You can also start sewing 3rd part at the pinned place in the Sleeve bottom and
sew its sides B and A together moving toward the armhole as shown above.

Sew another seam in a similar manner: start where last st of Front is pinned to first decreased st of Back:

1. sew the whole side B of the Back to the longest side A of the Front working until
side B is finished (when it meets Sleeve)
2. continue sewing the remaining rows of the longest side A of the Front to rows in
longest side A of the Sleeve
3. continue sewing the remaining rows of the longest side A and side B in Sleeve
ending at pinned sts at its bottom.

With your main yarn sew all seams already worked with baste sts. Use the mattress stitch for sewing
youtube.com/results?search_query=mattress+stitch+knitting+

Neon green dashed lines on next page indicate where seams will be in finished dress in size M.
Try not to tighten the sewn edges since they will be in visible-parts of this dress (not along the
sides). While stitches in all sewn panels lean in different directions the “winding” of Sleeves and
Body will disappear only after washing. You may wash the dress now or after finishing.

17
neck

seam
next to
neck

WS-view

other
seams
worked
like
this
one

neon green dashed

lines indicate seams in
finished dress in size M
If you have not washed this dress
before - wash it now to make sure you
have the right length of Sleeves. You
can pull the Sleeves down to make
them longer and remove excessive
width, then let them dry.

EDGES (each edge is worked in the round, in the same direction):

Sleeve cuff (rib sts):

Pick up stitches at the bottom (approx. 2 sts

every 1 cm = 0.4’’) working into sts of main
pattern and not into edge sts. The number of
sts should be a multiple of 3. The rib in Sleeves
was knitted in the round with 5 double
pointed needles 2 mm in the sample shown.

18
R.1: *p2, k1*, repeat from * around.
R.2: purl all purl sts, knit all knit sts.
In next R. decrease one third of all stitches:
R.3: *p2tog across two purl sts; k1*, repeat
from * around.
R.4: purl all purl sts, knit all knit sts.
Work 1 x 1 rib until reaching the rib length 28
cm = 11’’ or the desired length, bind off.

Bottom of the Body (stockinette stitch along the hem):

Pick up even number of stitches at the bottom (approx. 2 sts every 1 cm = 0.4’’) working into sts
of main pattern and not into edge sts. Work stockinette stitch with circular needles 2 mm until
reaching the length of the bottom 3 cm = 1.2’’. Bind off sts in next row. Fold the edge, sew last
row to the edge of main pattern. It’s convenient to sew with baste sts, then with the main yarn.

stockinette st
WS in dress
RS in dress

Neckline edge:
Option 1, shown on the right and on page 1:
For a simple V-neck-edging work row of
slip sts along the neckline with hook 2 mm.
If you don’t have a crochet hook work
stockinette edging as you did in hem.

Option 2, shown on the left and on page 2:

For high turtleneck collar pick up stitches around the
neckline so that you have even number of stitches;
work 1 x 1 rib with double pointed needles 2 mm until
reaching the same length as in your cuffs, bind off.
There are 160 sts in collar in the sample shown.

Copyright © 2021 All rights reserved. Any reprinting, transmitting, reproducing, publishing or otherwise using
for commercial purposes parts of this tutorial is strictly prohibited without my prior written permission.

19