92994

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92994

BRÄM (EDGING) – TOP

Bräm is a crop top you can wear all year round! It is as excellent top for sunny days and as a vest
when the weather is cooler. The decorative lower edge uses short rows for easy knitting. The top is
worked from the bottom up in stockinette with details in garter stitch. The buttonholes are worked
once the top is finished, making it easy to adjust the length to fit.

YARN GARMENT LENGTH Approx. 15¾ (15¾, 17, 18¼, 18½,

Merino Bomull (50% superwash Merino wool, 50% 19¼, 19¾, 20½, 21¼) in / 40 (40, 43, 46, 47, 49, 50, 52,
cotton, 132 yd/121 m / 50 g) 54) cm
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS YARN AMOUNTS AND COLORS
Fuga (50% superwash wool, 50% acrylic, 132 yd/121 m / Approx. 200 (200, 250, 250, 300, 300, 350, 400, 450) g
50 g) (color 34015, Basil)
Mellanraggi (75% superwash wool, 25% nylon, 284 NEEDLES U. S. size 6 / 4 mm: 32 in / 80 cm circular
yd/260 m / 100 g) CROCHET HOOK U. S. G-6 / 4 mm or one size smaller
GAUGE Approx. 22 sts x 28 rows in stockinette on (U. S. F-5 / 3.75 mm)
gauge-size needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. NOTIONS 2 stitch markers, 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5)
Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if necessary. buttons, ¾ in / 20 mm in diameter
SIZES XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2L, 3XL, 4XL) LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY Intermediate
POSITIVE EASE Approx. 1½-4 in / 4-10 cm DESIGNER Ellen Furderer
GARMENT CHEST Approx. 33½ (35½, 37½, 39¾, 41¾,
46, 50½, 54¾, 59) in / 85 (90, 95, 101, 106, 117, 128, 139,
150) cm

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES bottom up. The wavy lower edge is worked first and
See Tips and Shortcuts on the last page for common then the body. When binding off for each underarm,
abbreviations and other useful information. the body is divided at the underarms for front and back
which are then worked separately. Finish by joining the
M1R = make 1 right: With left needle, lift strand shoulders and adding the buttonholes.
between 2 sts from back to front and knit into front Video, buttonhole: https://youtu.be/hVPb-WGUOL4
loop = right-leaning increase.
M1L = make 1 left: With left needle, lift strand between CASTING ON
2 sts from front to back and knit into back loop = left- With gauge-size circular, CO 192 (204, 216, 228, 240,
leaning increase. 264, 288, 312, 336) sts.

W&T: Wrap and turn. WAVY LOWER EDGE

The wavy edge is knitted in garter st over 12 sts at a
How to Wrap a Stitch: time and shaped with short rows. When turning, you
This technique helps avoid holes on short rows. Work in can wrap sts to avoid holes.
pattern to the given place. Slip 1 stitch purlwise. Bring
yarn to front of work. Move slipped stitch to left needle. To make this easier, place markers which can be moved
Turn work so the opposite side faces you. The yarn is up after each wave is knitted. You’ll need 2 stitch
now wrapped around the stitch. Later, when you come markers.
to a wrapped st, knit the stitch with its wrap.
The first row is worked on the WS.
Garment Construction
The top is worked back and forth in one piece, from the

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K6 (front band), pm. Place next marker another 12 sts in sts before marker. K7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 16), slm. K7 (7,
on the row. 8, 8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 16), purl until 6 sts rem, k6.
Row 5: Knit all sts.
The wave is worked as follows:
K7; w&t. Continue as est above, with one knit st more on each
K2; w&t. side of each marker until there are 11 (11, 12, 12, 13, 15,
K3; w&t. 16, 18, 20) sts in garter st on each side of markers.
K4; w&t.
On the next garter row, BO for armholes and divide for
Continue as est, turning after 1 more st each time until front and back.
all 12 sts have been worked. The last row is knitted on
the WS and you have reached the left marker. Now With RS facing, BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14) sts on each
move the first marker 12 sts in on the row (after the side of markers = a total of 10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 18, 20, 24,
second marker). 28) sts on each underarm.

Knit “waves” until 6 sts remain (= front band), k6 = a The sts remaining are divided as:
total of 15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27) waves have Right front: 46 (49, 51, 54, 56, 60, 65, 69, 73) sts
been knitted. Back: 80 (86, 90, 96, 100, 108, 118, 126, 134) sts
Left front: 46 (49, 51, 54, 56, 60, 65, 69, 73) sts
Now knit 6 rows in garter st; the last row is on WS.
Now work each piece separately. Place sts of back and
BODY right front on holders while you work left front.
Work the transition from garter st to stockinette:
Row 1 (RS): Knit across. LEFT FRONT
Row 2 (WS): K11, p2, *k10, p2*; rep *-* until 11 sts rem, Beginning on WS, work back and forth, and, at the same
k11. time, shape armhole on every other row as follows:
Row 3: Knit across. Row 1 (WS): K6, purl until 6 sts rem, k6.
Row 4: K9, p6, *k6, p6*; rep *-* until 9 sts rem, k9. Row 2 (RS): K5, ssk, knit to end of row = 1 st decreased.
Row 5: Knit across.
Row 6: K7, p10, *k2, p10*; rep *-* until 7 sts rem, k7. Repeat Rows 1-2 another 4 (5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) times for
Row 7: Knit across. a total of 5 (6, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7) times = 5 (6, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7,
Row 8: K6, purl until 6 sts rem, k6. 7) sts decreased and 41 (43, 45, 48, 50, 53, 58, 62, 66) sts
rem.
Rep Rows 7-8 until front bands measure approx. 6¼
(6¼, 6¾, 7, 7½, 8, 8¼, 8¾, 9) in / 16 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, Shape V-neck
22, 23) cm or approx. 1½ in / 4 cm shorter than desired Decrease 1 st at neck edge on every other row as
length of body. follows:
Row 1 (WS): K6, purl until 6 sts rem, k6.
On the last row, place 2 markers to indicate center of Row 2 (RS): Knit until 7 sts rem, k2tog, k5 = 1 st
each underarm: decreased.
K51 (54, 57, 60, 63, 69, 75, 81, 87), pm, k90 (96, 102, 108,
114, 126, 138, 150, 162), pm, k51 (54, 57, 60, 63, 69, 75, Repeat Rows 1-2 another 22 (22, 24, 27, 27, 28, 31, 33,
81, 87). 35) times for a total of 23 (23, 25, 28, 28, 29, 32, 34, 36)
times = 23 (23, 25, 28, 28, 29, 32, 34, 36) sts decreased
Next, knit a garter st edging under each armhole: and 18 (20, 20, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30) sts rem.
Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
Row 2 (WS): K6, purl until 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15) sts Work 1 more row on WS.
before marker. K6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15), slm. K6 (6, 7,
7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15), purl until 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15) The piece should now measure approx. 8 (8¼, 8¾, 9¾,
sts before marker. K6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15), slm. K6 (6, 9¾, 10¼, 11, 11½, 11¾) in / 20 (21, 22, 25, 25, 26, 28, 29,
7, 7, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15), purl until 6 sts rem, k6. 30) cm from underarm where body was divided for
back and front.
Row 3: Knit across.
Row 4: K6, purl until 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 16) sts Do not bind off. Place left front sts on a holder.
before marker. K7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 16), slm. K7 (7, 8,
8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 16), purl until 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 16)

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Version 1

RIGHT FRONT Knit back neck as follows:

The right front is worked as for left front, but mirror- Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
image. Row 2 (WS): K6, purl until 12 (12, 14, 17, 17, 18, 21, 25,
27) sts before marker, K12 (12, 14, 17, 17, 18, 21, 25, 27)
Beginning on WS, work back and forth, and, at the same sts, slm, K12 (12, 14, 17, 17, 18, 21, 25, 27) sts, purl until 6
time, shape armhole on every other row as follows: sts rem, k6.
Row 1 (WS): K6, purl until 6 sts rem, k6. Row 3: Knit across.
Row 2 (RS): Knit until 7 sts rem, k2tog, k5= 1 st Row 4 (WS): K6, purl until 13 (13, 15, 18, 18, 19, 22, 26,
decreased. 28) sts before marker. K13 (13, 15, 18, 18, 19, 22, 26, 28)
sts, slm. K13 (13, 15, 18, 18, 19, 22, 26, 28) sts, purl until 6
Repeat Rows 1-2 another 4 (5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) times for sts rem, k6.
a total of 5 (6, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7) times = 5 (6, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7,
7) sts decreased and 41 (43, 45, 48, 50, 53, 58, 62, 66) sts Continue as est above, with one knit st more on each
rem. side of the marker until there are 17 (17, 19, 22, 22, 23,
26, 30, 32) sts in garter st on each side of the marker.
Shape V-neck
Decrease 1 st at neck edge on every other row as On the next row, bind off for back neck and divide for
follows: right and left back.
Row 1 (WS): K6, purl until 6 sts rem, k6.
Row 2 (RS): K5, ssk, knit to end of row = 1 st decreased. With RS facing, BO 11 (11, 13, 16, 16, 17, 20, 24, 26) sts
on each side of marker = a total of 22 (22, 26, 32, 32, 34,
Repeat Rows 1-2 another 22 (22, 24, 27, 27, 28, 31, 33, 40, 48, 52) sts. There should now be 24 (26, 26, 26, 28,
35) times for a total of 23 (23, 25, 28, 28, 29, 32, 34, 36) 30, 32, 32, 34) sts on each side of back.
times = 23 (23, 25, 28, 28, 29, 32, 34, 36) sts decreased
and 18 (20, 20, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30) sts rem. Place right back sts on a holder while you work the left
side.
Work 1 more row on WS.
LEFT BACK
The piece should now measure approx. 8 (8¼, 8¾, 9¾, Beginning with WS facing, work back and forth, at the
9¾, 10¼, 11, 11½, 11¾) in / 20 (21, 22, 25, 25, 26, 28, 29, same time, decreasing at neck edge on every other row
30) cm from underarm where body was divided for as follows:
back and front. Row 1 (WS): K6, purl until 6 sts rem, k6.
Row 2 (RS): K5, ssk, knit to end of row = 1 st decreased.
Do not bind off. Place right front sts on a holder.
Repeat Rows 1-2 another 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 3, 3) times for
BACK a total of 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 4, 4) times = 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 4,
Beginning on WS, work back and forth, and, at the same 4) sts decreased and 18 (20, 20, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30) sts
time, shape armholes on every other row as follows: rem.
Row 1 (WS): K6, purl until 6 sts rem, k6.
Row 2 (RS): K5, ssk, knit until 7 sts rem, k2tog, k5= 2 sts Continue in pattern as est without decreasing for
decreased. another 7 rows. Work now measures approx. 8 (7½, 8¼,
9, 9, 9½, 8¾, 9, 9½) in / 20 (19, 21, 23, 23, 24, 22, 23, 24)
Repeat Rows 1-2 another 4 (5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) times for cm from row where body was divided for front and
a total of 5 (6, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7) times = 10 (12, 12, 12, 12, back.
14, 14, 14, 14) sts decreased and 70 (74, 78, 84, 88, 94,
104, 112, 120) sts rem. Work last row on WS.

Continue working back and forth without decreasing Place left back sts on a holder without binding off.
until piece measures approx. 3½ (3¼, 4, 4¾, 4¾, 5¼, 4¼,
5¼, 5½) in / 9 (8, 10, 12, 12, 13, 11, 13, 14) cm from RIGHT BACK
underarm where body was divided for back and front. The right back is work as for the left, but mirror-image.

Next, knit back neck edging in garter st. Beginning with WS facing, work back and forth, at the
same time, decreasing at back neck edge on every other
Pm at center of back = 35 (37, 39, 42, 44, 47, 52, 56, 60) row as follows:
sts on each side of marker. Row 1 (WS): K6, purl until 6 sts rem, k6.

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Row 2 (RS): Knit until 7 sts rem, k2tog, k5 = 1 st one side of your mark for placement. Loops are then
decreased. attached on back of work.

Repeat Rows 1-2 another 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 3, 3) times for Mark placement of buttonholes.
a total of 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 4, 4) times = 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 4,
4) sts decreased and 18 (20, 20, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30) sts In the middle of the front buttonhole band, using a
rem. crochet hook, make 3-4 chain loops straight up on the
top of your mark (in the same way as latching up a
Continue in pattern as est without decreasing for dropped stitch). Make sure to get all the stitch loops so
another 7 rows. Work now measures approx. 8 (7½, 8¼, you form a hole.
9, 9, 9½, 8¾, 9, 9½) in / 20 (19, 21, 23, 23, 24, 22, 23, 24)
cm from row where body was divided for front and Draw the last stitch loop through to the wrong side and
back. secure it with a stitch marker or safety pin.

Work last row on WS. Repeat the same process below your mark to double
the size of the hole.
FINISHING
Seam back and front pieces with RS facing, using Sew the secured loops down on WS with a bit of yarn.
Kitchener st.
Repeat for each buttonhole. Note that the buttonholes
TIP Try the top on before you seam it. The height of the will be rather tight at first but they quickly loosen up.
shoulders can be adjusted by working more or fewer
rows after the last decreases on the back. The last row is Weave in all ends neatly on wrong side. Dampen top,
on WS. preferably from a spray bottle. Roll top in a towel to
absorb excess water. Lay flat to dry, patted out to
AFTERTHOUGHT BUTTONHOLES finished measurements. Pin tips of waves to shape
The buttonholes are vertical, parallel to the front band. them as top dries.
Make each buttonhole with a chain loop crocheted up

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TIPS & SHORTCUTS

To avoid questions: Before you begin knitting, read through the pattern.

Stitch count: Always knit or crochet a gauge swatch as recommended in the pattern. If your stitch count doesn’t
match the gauge given in the pattern, try again with larger or smaller needles or hook. If your gauge doesn’t
match that in the pattern, your item will not be the correct size or shape.

Highlight the size you will knit or crochet throughout the pattern to make it easier to follow the instructions.

Charts: It will be easier to follow a chart if you mark your row with a ruler and magnetic board or sticky note.

Ease: The amount of ease included in our garments varies depending on the type and shape of the garment. To
determine the right size, we recommend that you first measure your body. Then you can calculate the garment
size depending on how much ease you want the garment to have. The schematics for each piece show all the
garment measurements.

Two-color stranded knitting: When knitting more than 3-4 stitches of the same color, twist the color strands around
each other on the wrong side to avoid long strands or “floats” on the back. If the yarns need to be twisted on several
rows/rounds, make sure you do not stack the twists in the same place to prevent the yarns from showing through on
the right side.

Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from
time to time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two
rows from another skein.

ABBREVIATIONS
alt = alternately, approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, BOR = beginning of row/round,
cc = contrasting color, col = color, cont = continue, dec = decrease, EOR = end of row/round, fl = front loop,
inc = increase, m = marker, mm = millimeters, mc = main color, patt = pattern, pm = place marker, rep = repeat,
rnd(s) = round/rounds, RM = remove marker, RS = right side, sl = slip, sl m = slip marker, st(s) = stitches,
tog = together, WS = wrong side, yo = yarn over

KNITTING
BO = bind off, cn = cable needle, CO = cast on, dpn(s) = double-pointed needles, g st = garter stitch,
k1f&b = knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k = knit (stitch), k2tog = knit two stitches together, kw = knitwise,
LH = left hand needle, p = purl (stitch), pw = purlwise, RH = right hand needle, ssk = slip, slip, knit,
St st = stockinette/stocking stitch, wyib = with yarn in back, wyif = with yarn in front

CROCHETING
ch = chain stitch, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble crochet, hdc = half double crochet,
htr = half treble crochet, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, tr = treble crochet, tr tr = triple treble crochet

DIFFICULTY
Beginner: Anyone with no experience knitting/crocheting. Easy techniques and clear explanations.

Adventurous Beginner: For a beginner ready to take the next step. Clear explanations so you can try some new
techniques.

Intermediate: Anyone who has knitted/crocheted for a while but who wants a challenge. More advanced
techniques and two steps occur at the same time.

Experienced: For experienced knitters/crocheters who have already tried many techniques and methods.
Advanced/uncommon techniques and several steps occur simultaneously.

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