Sewing Instructions
Sewing Darts on the Front
- Stitch bust darts along the marked line on the Front, starting from the side seam and sewing
towards the apex. Backstitch at the beginning, leaving a long thread tail at the dart tip.
- Knot the thread tails at the dart tip.
- Press down.
- Stitch waist darts on the Front from point to point along the marked line. Do not backstitch at
the points, leaving long thread tails at the dart tip.
- Knot the thread tails at the dart tip.
- Press toward center.
- Staystitch the neckline on the Front.
Sewing Darts on the Back
- Stitch waist darts on the Back from point to point along the marked line. Do not backstitch at
the points, leaving long thread tails at the dart tip.
- Knot the thread tails at the dart tip.
- Press toward center.
- Staystitch the neckline on the Back.
Sewing Shoulder Darts on the Back
- Stitch shoulder darts along the marked line on the Back, starting from the shoulder seam and
sewing towards the center back. Backstitch at the beginning, leaving a long thread tail at the dart
tip.
- Knot the thread tails at the dart tip.
- Press toward center.
- Staystitch the neckline on the Back.
Sewing the Shoulders
- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at shoulders, then stitch. Finish the seam
allowances separately and press open.
Sewing Exposed Separating Zipper
Note: It may be necessary to shorten the zipper.
- To make new zipper stop, place zipper along opening edge (with pull tab 1/8" (3mm) below
seamline).
- Mark placement of the new zipper stop.
- Whipstitch across teeth at marking. Cut the zipper 3/4" (2cm) below the new stop.
- Open and separate the zipper. Lay each side of zipper tape face down on its respective Back
piece, right sides together, with edge of tape even with cut edge of each garment Back. Baste in
place, then stitch close to zipper teeth, using a zipper foot.
- Press the seam allowance to back of opening.
- Top-stitch 1/4" away from fold along each side of the zipper.
Sewing Side Seams
- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at Sides, then stitch from armhole down to the hem.
Finish the seam allowances separately and press open.
Armhole Facing
Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of armhole facings, following manufacturer's
instructions.
- Stitch shoulder and underarm seams of the Front and Back armhole facings, right sides
together. Finish seams and press open.
- Finish the outer edge of facings by overlocking or zigzagging.
- Pin the facing to the Shell, right sides together, aligning armhole edges and matching seams
and notches. Stitch around the seamline at the 1 cm (1/2") seam allowance.
- Grade the seam allowance of the facing in half.
- Clip into curves around the armhole edge.
- Press both the seam allowance and the facing out away from the garment.
- Understitch the facing along the seamline through both the facing and seam allowance, then
turn to inside and press.
- Tack at shoulders and side seams.
Neckline
Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of neck facings, following manufacturer's instructions.
- With right sides together, pin Front Neck Facing to Back Neck Facing at shoulders, then stitch.
Press.
- Finish facing’s outer edge.
- With right sides together, pin facing to neck edge of the garment, matching notches, centers
and seams, then stitch. Trim. Clip into the curves.
- Understitch facing, then turn facing to inside. Press.
- Tack at shoulders.
Hem
- Finish the lower raw edge of the garment. Turn up the hem along foldline, then hand baste close
to fold, if fabric does not hold crease well. Sew hem in place (pic. 1) or use a blind hem stitch
(pic. 2). Press.
