Technical Sketch

Woven, Natural Waist Seam, Full Length, Full Circle, Princess Top With Straps, No Seam,
Sleeveless Straps 9/32"(0.7cm) Width, Round Neck Bodice, Sleeveless Sleeveless, Back Straight
Seam with No Back Vent and Invisible Zipper 22" Closure Length, No Ruffle, Neckline Facing

Sewing Instructions
Sewing Princess Seams on the Front

- With right sides together, pin Side Front sections to side edges of Center Front, matching
notches, then stitch, clipping into curves where necessary so they lie flat. Finish the seam
allowances separately and press open.
- Staystitch the neckline on the Front.
Sewing Princess Seams on the Back

- With right sides together, pin Side Back sections to side edges of Center Back, matching
notches, then stitch, clipping into curves where necessary so they lie flat. Finish the seam
allowances separately and press open.
- Staystitch the neckline on the Back.

Sewing Side Seams

- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at Sides, then sew underarm seam to end of bodice.
Finish the seam allowances separately and press open.

Sewing Straps

- Fold strap along foldline, right sides together, then stitch, leaving the ends open. Trim.
- Turn right side out. Press, then baste raw edges together.
- On outside, pin shoulder straps to bodice Front and Back, matching notches, having raw edges
even. Stitch.
Sewing Skirt Center Back Seam

- Stitch Back sections together at center back, leaving open above the zipper notch.
Sewing Skirt Side Seams

- Pin skirt Front and Back sections together at sides, matching notches.
- Stitch at Side Seams from waistline down to the hem.
- Press seam allowances toward back.

Hem

- Stitch 1/4" (6mm) from lower edge of the garment, using basting stitches and leaving long
thread tail for adjusting the hem. Turn up 7/8" (2 cm) hem, turning in 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge.
Pull thread to ease in fullness, then stitch. Press.
Attaching Bottom to Bodice

- With right sides together, pin finished bottom to bodice, matching notches, centers and side
seams, then stitch.
- Stitch again 1/4" (6 mm) away inside seam allowance. Serge seam close to the second stitch
line. Press seam towards bottoms.

Setting the Invisible Zipper

Note: Use special invisible zipper foot when stitching invisible zipper. Zipper can be trimmed
(remove the excess zipper length from the bottom, secure the new end of the zipper by stitching
over the zipper teeth using a bar tack).

- Open the zipper. From the wrong side, press the zipper coils flat so that the two rows of
stitching show.
- Open zipper, on outside, pin zipper to one of the opening edges, face down in seam allowance,
placing zipper tape flush with the upper edge of the fabric and zipper teeth on seamline.
- Stitch the open zipper tape close to the teeth, starting at the top of the edge and stitch until foot
meets the zipper pull. Backstitch at the beginning and the end.
- Close zipper. Pin remaining zipper tape to the other opening edge, placing zipper teeth on
seamline.
- Open zipper. Stitch close to teeth, until foot meets the zipper pull.
- Close zipper and pin Back sections together below zipper. Position and lower needle slightly
above (about 1/4" (6mm) up) and to the left of zipper stitching. Stitch remainder of Center Back
seam.
- Stitch or hand sew each end of zipper tape to seam allowances, keeping the garment free when
stitching.

Neckline

The neckline may be left raw depending on the fabric, or you can finish edges by zigzagging,
overlocking or use a bias tape.

Sewing The Bias Tape

The length of bias tape depends on the neckline (plus 2").

- Open up one side of the bias tape and press it flat. Pin the tape on the right side of the fabric, at
the center back of the neckline (if there is a closure pin at the edge), so that the crease of the
opened side is a 3/8" (1 cm) from the raw edge. Pin the tape 1" toward the shoulder seam. Leave
a tail of 1" past the center back.
- Start sewing in the crease of the tape 1" from the center back (if there is a closure: start from
the edge). Sew around the neckline until 1" from the center back. Be careful not to stretch the
fabric, let the tape follow the curve of the neckline.
- Bring the two tails together at the center back to find the place where they should meet and
mark the seamline.
- Match and sew the folds together.
- Trim the excess tape.
- Open up the tails and press. Sew the remaining 2" of tape to the back neckline.
- If there is a closure: Fold the tail to the wrong side of the garment. Pin and sew the remaining of
the tape.
- Fold the tape in half (as shown). In order to keep the neckline edge sharp and clean, understitch
the bias tape to the seam allowance so it won’t roll to the outside.
- Press the bias tape up, away from the bodice. You don’t need to press the tape flat – just press
the edge of the tape with the tip of your iron. Stitch through the tape and the seam allowance of
the bodice, as close to the pressed edge as you can.
- Turn the shirt inside out and trim the seam allowance of the garment close to the
understitching.
- Fold the bias tape out along the neckline curve. Press the bias tape along the curve, so no tape
is visible on the right side of the garment. Give the neckline a good press. Sew the tape to the
neckline. Keep the fabric underneath taut to prevent wrinkles. Follow the curve of the neckline.
- Give the neckline a final press.