Sewing Instructions
Sewing Darts on the Front
- Stitch bust darts along the marked line on the Front using small zig-zag stitch. Start from the
top of the dart, leaving long thread tails at the ends.
- Knot the thread tails at the ends.
- Trim dart fold to 1/4" (6mm). Press down.
Note: if you are using overlock, serge along the dart line, all the way off the end of the fabric,
trimming the bust dart off. Knot the thread tails at the ends. Press seam down.
Sewing Side Seams
- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at Sides, then sew underarm seam to end of bodice.
Finish the seam allowances separately and press open.
Setting Waistband
The Waistband comes as one pattern piece that is cut twice. One pattern piece is the outer
waistband and the other is the waistband Facing. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of
waistband, following manufacturer's instructions.
- Stitch Front and Back waistband sections together at sides.
- Repeat for the waistband Facing.
- With right sides together, pin the waistband to lower edge of bodice, matching notches and
aligning centers and side seams. Stitch.
- Turn in seam allowance on the upper long edge of waistband Facing. Press. Trim the pressed
edge to 3/8" (1cm).
- Pin the right side of waistband Facing to wrong side of bodice at the lower edge, matching
notches and aligning centers and side seams. Stitch, then trim seam allowances. Press seam
allowances toward waistband.
Sewing Straps
- Fold strap along foldline, right sides together, then stitch, leaving the ends open. Trim.
- Turn right side out. Press, then baste raw edges together.
- On outside, pin shoulder straps to bodice Front and Back, matching notches, having raw edges
even. Stitch.
Sewing Skirt Side Seams
- Pin skirt Front and Back sections together at sides, matching notches.
- Stitch at Side Seams from waistline down to the hem.
- Press seam allowances toward back.
Hem
- Turn up the hem along foldline. Zigzag stitch hemline around circumference of the garment
(pic. 1) or sew with a double-needle from the right side of the garment (pic. 2). Press.
Attaching Bottom to Bodice
- With right sides together, pin bottom to waistband, matching notches, centers and side seams,
then stitch.
- Stitch again 1/4" (6 mm) away inside seam allowance. Trim close to second stitching. Press
seam toward waistband.
- Pin the pressed edge of waistband Facing to the bottom's waist edge and slipstitch over seam.
Setting the Invisible Zipper
Note: Use special invisible zipper foot when stitching invisible zipper. Zipper can be trimmed
(remove the excess zipper length from the bottom, secure the new end of the zipper by stitching
over the zipper teeth using a bar tack).
- Open the zipper. From the wrong side, press the zipper coils flat so that the two rows of
stitching show.
- Open zipper, on outside, pin zipper to one of the opening edges, face down in seam allowance,
placing zipper tape flush with the upper edge of the fabric and zipper teeth on seamline.
- Stitch the open zipper tape close to the teeth, starting at the top of the edge and stitch until foot
meets the zipper pull. Backstitch at the beginning and the end.
- Close zipper. Pin remaining zipper tape to the other opening edge, placing zipper teeth on
seamline.
- Open zipper. Stitch close to teeth, until foot meets the zipper pull.
- Close zipper and pin Back sections together below zipper. Position and lower needle slightly
above (about 1/4" (6mm) up) and to the left of zipper stitching. Stitch remainder of Center Back
seam.
- Stitch or hand sew each end of zipper tape to seam allowances, keeping the garment free when
stitching.
Neckline without Facing
Mock Coverstitch (pic. 1)
- Using an overlock machine, serge the entire edge of the seam allowance.
- Turn in seam allowance and press.
- Sew two rows of medium size stitches, 1/4" (6mm) apart from one another.
OR
Zigzag Stitch (pic. 2)
- Turn in seam allowance and press.
- With a short stitch length, zigzag seam allowance at raw edge.
