Technical Sketch

Suitable for all fabric types, No Waist Seam, Midi, 3/4 Circle, Bust Darts, No Seam, Center
Back Seam, Plunging V- Neck, Set In Sleeves, Back Curved Seam with Invisible Zipper,
Sleeveless, In-Seam Pockets, Neckline Facing

Sewing Instructions
Sewing Darts on the Front

- Stitch bust darts along the marked line on the Front, starting from the side seam and sewing
towards the apex. Backstitch at the beginning, leaving a long thread tail at the dart tip.
- Knot the thread tails at the dart tip.
- Press down.
- Staystitch the neckline on the Front.
Sewing Darts on the Back

- Stitch waist darts on the Back from point to point along the marked line. Do not backstitch at
the points, leaving long thread tails at the dart tip.
- Knot the thread tails at the dart tip.
- Press toward center.
- Staystitch the neckline on the Back.
Sewing Shoulder Darts on the Back

- Stitch shoulder darts along the marked line on the Back, starting from the shoulder seam and
sewing towards the center back. Backstitch at the beginning, leaving a long thread tail at the dart
tip.
- Knot the thread tails at the dart tip.
- Press toward center.
- Staystitch the neckline on the Back.
Sewing In-Seam Pockets

- Pin the pocket pieces to the garment, right sides together, matching notches, then stitch at
5/8" (pic. 1).
- Press the pockets in the opposite direction, so that the right sides are all facing outwards, then
topstitch pocket bags (pic. 2 and 3).
- Pin the Front and Back garment sections together (with attached pockets), right sides together,
matching notches and aligning the seams. Stitch the side seams till the pocket and around the
curve of the pocket, then back down the side seams (pic. 4).
(Note: if there is a side zipper, stitch the right side seam, then stitch the left side seam, leaving an
opening above the zipper notch).
- Press the seams and pockets towards the center front of the garment (pic. 5).
Sewing the Shoulders

- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at shoulders, then stitch. Finish the seam
allowances separately and press open.

Setting the Invisible Zipper

Note: Use special invisible zipper foot when stitching invisible zipper. Zipper can be trimmed
(remove the excess zipper length from the bottom, secure the new end of the zipper by stitching
over the zipper teeth using a bar tack).

- Open the zipper. From the wrong side, press the zipper coils flat so that the two rows of
stitching show.
- Open zipper, on outside, pin zipper to one of the opening edges, face down in seam allowance,
placing zipper tape flush with the upper edge of the fabric and zipper teeth on seamline.
- Stitch the open zipper tape close to the teeth, starting at the top of the edge and stitch until foot
meets the zipper pull. Backstitch at the beginning and the end.
- Close zipper. Pin remaining zipper tape to the other opening edge, placing zipper teeth on
seamline.
- Open zipper. Stitch close to teeth, until foot meets the zipper pull.
- Close zipper and pin Back sections together below zipper. Position and lower needle slightly
above (about 1/4" (6mm) up) and to the left of zipper stitching. Stitch remainder of Center Back
seam.
- Stitch or hand sew each end of zipper tape to seam allowances, keeping the garment free when
stitching.

Setting Side Seam Invisible Zipper

Note: Use special invisible zipper foot when stitching invisible zipper. Zipper can be trimmed
(remove the excess zipper length from the bottom, secure the new end of the zipper by stitching
over the zipper teeth using a bar tack).

- Pin the remainder of left side seam, then baste between zipper notches. Press open.
- Pin the closed zipper tape face down to seam allowances, placing zipper teeth on seamline,
aligning centers and matching notches. Baste.
- Undo the basting stitch that was keeping front and back side seams together.
- Open the zipper. Position left-hand groove of zipper foot over teeth and stitch close to teeth,
starting at the top of the edge and stitch up to the zipper notch. Backstitch at the beginning and
the end.
- Position right-hand groove of the zipper foot over teeth and stitch the zipper tape to the right
opening edge, starting at the top of the edge and stitch up to the zipper notch. Backstitch at the
beginning and the end.
- Undo the basting stitch. Press.
- Stitch or hand sew each end of zipper tape to seam allowances, keeping the garment free when
stitching.

The Armholes

The armholes may be left raw depending on the fabric, or you can finish edges by zigzagging,
overlocking or use a bias tape.

Sewing The Bias Tape

The length of bias tape depends on the armholes (plus 2").

- Open up one side of the bias tape and press it flat. Pin the tape on the right side of the fabric, at
the side seam, so that the crease of the opened side is a 3/8" (1 cm) from the raw edge. Pin the
tape 1" toward the shoulder seam. Leave a tail of 1" past the side seam.
- Start sewing in the crease of the tape 1" from the side seam. Sew around the armhole until 1"
from the side seam. Be careful not to stretch the fabric, let the tape follow the curve of the
armhole.
- Bring the two tails together at the side seam to find the place where they should meet and mark
the seamline.
- Match and sew the folds together.
- Trim the excess tape.
- Open up the tails and press. Sew the remaining 2" of tape to the armhole.
- Fold the tape in half (as shown). In order to keep the armhole edge sharp and clean, understitch
the bias tape to the seam allowance so it won’t roll to the outside.
- Press the bias tape up, away from the bodice. You don’t need to press the tape flat – just press
the edge of the tape with the tip of your iron. Stitch through the tape and the seam allowance of
the bodice, as close to the pressed edge as you can.
- Turn the shirt inside out and trim the seam allowance of the garment close to the
understitching.
- Fold the bias tape out along the armhole curve. Press the bias tape along the curve, so no tape
is visible on the right side of the garment. Give the armhole a good press. Sew the tape to the
armhole. Keep the fabric underneath taut to prevent wrinkles. Follow the curve of the armhole.
- Give the armhole a final press.

Neckline

The neckline may be left raw depending on the fabric, or you can finish edges by zigzagging,
overlocking or use a bias tape.
Sewing The Bias Tape

The length of bias tape depends on the neckline (plus 4" for this neckline).

- Open up one side of the bias tape and press it flat. Pin the tape on the right side of the fabric, at
the center back of the neckline (if there is a closure pin at the edge), so that the crease of the
opened side is a 3/8" (1 cm) from the raw edge. Pin the tape 1" toward the shoulder seam. Leave
a tail of 1" past the center back.
- Start sewing in the crease of the tape 1" from the center back (if there is a closure: start from
the edge). Stitch till the center of the corner (leave a tail of 1" past the center of the corner).
Repeat for the other side. Be careful not to stretch the fabric, let the tape follow the curve of the
neckline.
- Bring the two tails together at the center back to find the place where they should meet and
mark the seamline.
- Match and sew the folds together.
- Trim the excess tape.
- Open up the tails and press. Sew the remaining 2" of tape to the back neckline.
- If there is a closure: Fold the tail to the wrong side of the garment. Pin and sew the remaining of
the tape.
- Fold the tape in half (as shown). In order to keep the neckline edge sharp and clean, understitch
the bias tape to the seam allowance so it won’t roll to the outside (from center front to the center
front leaving tails free).
- Press the bias tape up, away from the bodice. You don’t need to press the tape flat – just press
the edge of the tape with the tip of your iron. Stitch through the tape and the seam allowance of
the bodice, as close to the pressed edge as you can.
- Turn the shirt inside out and trim the seam allowance of the garment close to the understitching
and clip the corner.
- Fold the bias tape out along the neckline curve. Press the bias tape along the curve, so no tape
is visible on the right side of the garment. Cut one tail, so other tail can cover it. Fold second tail
under fitst one. Give the neckline a good press. Sew the tape to the neckline. Keep the fabric
underneath taut to prevent wrinkles. Follow the curve of the neckline.
- Give the neckline a final press.
Hem

- Finish the lower raw edge of the garment. Turn up the hem along foldline, then hand baste close
to fold, if fabric does not hold crease well. Sew hem in place (pic. 1) or use a blind hem stitch
(pic. 2). Press.