Technical Sketch
No Waist Seam, No Seam, Center Back Seam, Back Straight Seam and Invisible Zipper 7"
Closure Length, Set In Sleeves, Round Jewel Neck, Sleeveless, Ruffle, Neckline
Facing,Fabric yield: 1.91yd at 44–45” width fabric
Sewing Instructions
Sewing the Shoulders
- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at shoulders, then stitch. Finish the seam
allowances separately and press open.
Setting the Invisible Zipper and Sewing Center Back Seam
Note: Use special invisible zipper foot when stitching invisible zipper. Zipper can be trimmed
(remove the excess zipper length from the bottom, secure the new end of the zipper by stitching
over the zipper teeth using a bar tack).
- Open the zipper. From the wrong side, press the zipper coils flat so that the two rows of
stitching show.
- Open zipper, on outside, pin zipper to one of the opening edges, face down in seam allowance,
placing zipper tape flush with the upper edge of the fabric and zipper teeth on seamline.
- Stitch the open zipper tape close to the teeth, starting at the top of the edge and stitch until foot
meets the zipper pull. Backstitch at the beginning and the end.
- Close zipper. Pin remaining zipper tape to the other opening edge, placing zipper teeth on
seamline.
- Open zipper. Stitch close to teeth, until foot meets the zipper pull.
- Close zipper and pin Back sections together below zipper. Position and lower needle slightly
above (about 1/4" (6mm) up) and to the left of zipper stitching. Stitch remainder of Center Back
seam.
- Stitch or hand sew each end of zipper tape to seam allowances, keeping the garment free when
stitching.
Sewing Side Seams
- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at Sides, then stitch from armhole down to the hem.
Finish the seam allowances separately and press open.
Armhole Facing
Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of armhole facings, following manufacturer's
instructions.
- Stitch shoulder and underarm seams of the Front and Back armhole facings, right sides
together. Finish seams and press open.
- Finish the outer edge of facings by overlocking or zigzagging.
- Pin the facing to the Shell, right sides together, aligning armhole edges and matching seams
and notches. Stitch around the seamline at the 1 cm (1/2") seam allowance.
- Grade the seam allowance of the facing in half.
- Clip into curves around the armhole edge.
- Press both the seam allowance and the facing out away from the garment.
- Understitch the facing along the seamline through both the facing and seam allowance, then
turn to inside and press.
- Tack at shoulders and side seams.
Neckline
Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of neck facings, following manufacturer's instructions.
- With right sides together, pin Front Neck Facing to Back Neck Facing at shoulders, then stitch.
Press.
- Finish facing’s outer edge.
- With right sides together, pin facing to neck edge of the garment, matching notches, centers
and seams, then stitch. Trim. Clip into the curves.
- Understitch facing, then turn facing to inside. Press.
- Tack at shoulders.
Attaching Ruffle
Note: if one of the ruffles consists of two parts, pin them along the center seam and stitch. Finish
the seam allowances separately and press open.
- Stitch ruffle sections together at sides.
- Sew with a double-needle from the right side of the garment. Press.
- Gather the upper edge: stitch at 1/2" (1.3 cm), using long machine stitches, then stitch 2nd row
1/4" (6mm) away inside seam allowance, leaving long thread tails at the end of each stitch.
- Pin ruffle to the lower edge of garment, right sides together, matching notches and aligning side
seams. Adjust gathers, then baste. Stitch. Stitch again 1/4" (6mm) away in seam allowance. Trim
close to stitching. Press seam allowance toward garment, turning ruffle down.
