Technical Sketch

Knits, No Waist Seam, Below Knees, A-Line, Bust Darts, No Seam, Center Back Seam, Boat Neck,
Sleeveless Armhole Facing, Back Straight Seam with No Back Vent and Invisible Zipper 7"
Closure Length, No Ruffle, Neckline Facing

Sewing Instructions
Sewing Darts on the Front

- Stitch bust darts along the marked line on the Front using small zig-zag stitch, starting from the
side seam and sewing towards the apex. Leave long thread tails at the ends.
- Knot the thread tails.
- Trim dart fold to 1/4" (6mm). Press down.

Note: if you are using overlock, serge along the dart line, all the way off the end of the fabric,
trimming the bust dart off. Knot the thread tails at the ends. Press seam down.
Sewing the Shoulders

- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at shoulders, then stitch. Finish the seam
allowances separately and press open.
Setting the Invisible Zipper and Sewing Center Back Seam

Note: Use special invisible zipper foot when stitching invisible zipper. Zipper can be trimmed
(remove the excess zipper length from the bottom, secure the new end of the zipper by stitching
over the zipper teeth using a bar tack).

- Open the zipper. From the wrong side, press the zipper coils flat so that the two rows of
stitching show.
- Open zipper, on outside, pin zipper to one of the opening edges, face down in seam allowance,
placing zipper tape flush with the upper edge of the fabric and zipper teeth on seamline.
- Stitch the open zipper tape close to the teeth, starting at the top of the edge and stitch until foot
meets the zipper pull. Backstitch at the beginning and the end.
- Close zipper. Pin remaining zipper tape to the other opening edge, placing zipper teeth on
seamline.
- Open zipper. Stitch close to teeth, until foot meets the zipper pull.
- Close zipper and pin Back sections together below zipper. Position and lower needle slightly
above (about 1/4" (6mm) up) and to the left of zipper stitching. Stitch remainder of Center Back
seam.
- Stitch or hand sew each end of zipper tape to seam allowances, keeping the garment free when
stitching.
Sewing Side Seams

- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at right side seam, then stitch.
- Stitch the left side seam, leaving an opening between zipper notches.
- Finish the seam allowances separately and press open.
Setting Side Seam Invisible Zipper

Note: Use special invisible zipper foot when stitching invisible zipper. Zipper can be trimmed
(remove the excess zipper length from the bottom, secure the new end of the zipper by stitching
over the zipper teeth using a bar tack).

- Pin the remainder of left side seam, then baste between zipper notches. Press open.
- Pin the closed zipper tape face down to seam allowances, placing zipper teeth on seamline,
aligning centers and matching notches. Baste.
- Undo the basting stitch that was keeping front and back side seams together.
- Open the zipper. Position left-hand groove of zipper foot over teeth and stitch close to teeth,
starting at the top of the edge and stitch up to the zipper notch. Backstitch at the beginning and
the end.
- Position right-hand groove of the zipper foot over teeth and stitch the zipper tape to the right
opening edge, starting at the top of the edge and stitch up to the zipper notch. Backstitch at the
beginning and the end.
- Undo the basting stitch. Press.
- Stitch or hand sew each end of zipper tape to seam allowances, keeping the garment free when
stitching.

Armhole Facing

Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of armhole facings, following manufacturer's
instructions.

- Stitch shoulder and underarm seams of the Front and Back armhole facings, right sides
together. Finish seams and press open.
- Finish the outer edge of facings by overlocking or zigzagging.
- Pin the facing to the Shell, right sides together, aligning armhole edges and matching seams
and notches. Stitch around the seamline at the 1 cm (1/2") seam allowance.
- Grade the seam allowance of the facing in half.
- Clip into curves around the armhole edge.
- Press both the seam allowance and the facing out away from the garment.
- Understitch the facing along the seamline through both the facing and seam allowance, then
turn to inside and press.
- Tack at shoulders and side seams.

Neckline without Facing

Mock Coverstitch (pic. 1)

OR

Zigzag Stitch (pic. 2)

- Turn up the hem along foldline. Zigzag stitch hemline around circumference of the garment
(pic. 1) or sew with a double-needle from the right side of the garment (pic. 2). Press.